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A real education...
8th Feb 2012 - 18th Feb 2012
True Muslim Hospitality

I'm sitting in a small guesthouse in Tiznit, Morocco, just at the beginning of the Sahara Desert. The internet is less than dependable so this might be a short blog with the story told mainly through pictures. Morocco has been a very incredible experience for me so far, with tall peaks and low vallies, I am just beginning to understand what it means to be riding a bicycle in the desert, in a country where i do not speak a word of any of the official languages. The sand, the heat, the cold, the wind, the constant assault from the white man hunters in tthe cities, all of it combines to create a somewhat harsh environment, especially to learn in!! On top of the environment, one is never really sure exactly where one will sleep, when or what one will eat, or even how to go about finding any of it!! quickly we learned that if you have a destination and a route to get there, you will be getting lost!! guarenteed!! So as to ensure we don't spend all our time feeling or being lost, we've learned that one must simply let go of the entire concept of "knowing where you are" and instead embrace the vastness and the freedom that comes with accepting the fact that you do not know where you are, where you came from nor where you are going... you have NOWHERE to be.... and like this, the mind relaxed with the acceptance of whatever may come, one no longer feels "lost" or "late" in any way. Taking away the reference point, one cannot be going the "wrong way", because any way IS the right way!!! one is never lost nor late because without a time or destination you arrive exactly where you are, exactly when you intend to!!!

The bike has had a number of small issues. Bolt that holds the seat post solid snapped off in Tangier... Impossible or extremely difficult for a white man to find one... ended up being saved once again by the incredible kindness of the Muslims and Moroccans in general... owner of ancient, crumbling hotel we were staying in gave me a heavy duty replacement without any thought of return.. Again in Agadir another mounting point snapped on the rear rack where it attatches to the frame... not the first time... had to find a local repair artist to weld it back to the frame.... not at all a pretty job but obviously now the strongest weld on the bike!! ...

 

A thousand thank yous to Wade F for the donation of a Brooks saddle... as it gets broken in I come to love it more and more... A thousand more Thanks to Pete, without his very generous donation of the bike, the racks, front bags, sleeping bag and a whole lot of time, it would not be happening like it is... More thanks to Tim at Summit City Bikes in Fort Wayne, this wouldnt be happening without his keen knowledge and experience in building bikes, as well as his kindness in going a bit above and beyond to ensure i have the best possible rig for what i'm doing...gives me a lot more confidence knowing his experience has deemed this bike road worthy, as i have absolutely zero experience with bicycles!! Overall the bikes working great man!!!  there are lots of other people that deserve and have my appreciation as well.... and of course as always the biggest thanks of all goes to my mother, who without nothing wouldve been possible!

reading over that it feels like an acceptance speach of some kind! haha but i do give thanks!!

tomorrow we move onward...



Next: Human Beings
Previous: Bicycle Africa


Diary Photos
9th Feb 2012  The road leading south!!!
Immediately we ran into wide open sand roads...

9th Feb 2012  Already??!!??
Yet another piece of the bike broke... had to have a local craftsman weld the rear mount for the rack... after having the seat post bolt snap!!! bike still rides really nice tho!!!... notice as i cower behind the protection of the saddle bag, this man proceeds to weld without a mask and grind off the excess with no goggles on...

9th Feb 2012  Desert meets ocean
We followed the compass south!! well apperently pretty far west as well!! ha ha

9th Feb 2012  Does anyone live here??
Exhausted and short on water with no place to stay, we roll up on this place that looked like a bunker bomb had wiped it out!!!

9th Feb 2012  Houses from the ruble
Slowly could see dwellings in the midst...

9th Feb 2012  Donkey vagabonds
Found a local house hosting two swiss girls and a spaniard heading south on foot with a donkey... and i almost thought i was hardcore!!!

9th Feb 2012  Hospitality perfected
Immediately after making it known that we could really use a place to sleep away from the desert wind and cold, we were openly invited into their home where we were stuffed and treated like royalty for the next six days!!!

9th Feb 2012  Beautiful music
With Rasheed on the fishing string guitar and Abdhul on the plastic bucket, they provide a nice base of rythem to which we can all participate in our own way!!! was fantastic!!!

9th Feb 2012  Tajeen tajeen tajeen
We were fed five times a day to the point of no return!!! the hospitality of the villagers is unlike anything ive experienced since sri lanka and india!!!

10th Feb 2012  Beachfront... literally
These dwellings appear to be about two or three good storms away from simply falling into the sea!!

10th Feb 2012  Break it down!!
These guys LOVE to dance!! dont care when or where, just start clapping and shakin it!!!

12th Feb 2012  Pour toi madam
Haha heres a really cool, laid back guy that truly loves to give things to others... doesnt even matter what it is, if it can be given to u he wants to give it!!

13th Feb 2012  Whats this??
After walking for two hours we came upon the most common looking bush, but Abdhula knew what he was looking for!...

13th Feb 2012  Can it be??
As we got closer i began to see there were people squatting in the bushes....

13th Feb 2012  Survivor
This man has lived in this hut inside a bush on the beach since 1980... can u even really comprehend what that means??? i try...

13th Feb 2012  Park rangers??!!?
Our randevouz with the forest rangers... as many Moroccan interactions go, we all sealed the friendship by sharing a smoke of only the finest quality Maroccan one can get!!!... keep in mind these people and myself do not share a single word of the same language, yet communicate to extraordinary levels....

13th Feb 2012  Village dogs
Nice dogs theey are..

13th Feb 2012  WATER!!
Only a local like Abdhulla would know where to find water in an environment like this...

13th Feb 2012  The "well"
Still tasted like salt water

13th Feb 2012  Sand... lots of it!

13th Feb 2012  Fishermen friends
Came upon an old fisherman friend of Abdhullas.. he was quite excited to show off his strange looking white friend(me)... the old man had a half dozen of these beautiful fish... he didn't hesitate to immediately give one to his friend... which we all ate only a few hours later... almost as fresh as physically possible... catch it...eat it...repeat...

13th Feb 2012  EL
A common shot around the village... EL is the last one at the Tajeen plate whoofing down the scraps Abdhul is already asleep in the background... hahaha

13th Feb 2012  Pure tobacco
The purest tobacco ive ever seen... huge leaves that were moist and heavy with resin...

14th Feb 2012  Wanna race??
Riding thru a village is sure to cause a huge scene... often the kids will hop on their bikes and catch up with us and ride to the end of the village...

14th Feb 2012  Fisherman hands
These are some real men... hard, solid spirit and an unwavering kindness that shines out thru their hospitality...

14th Feb 2012  Incredible kindness
Riding along a sand road absolutley in the middle of nowhere, we come upon a gang of ladies picking sweet peas by hand... the moment they saw us out there struggling on our bike they ran over with huge handfulls of freshly picked peas for us!!! great timing as we didi not know where we would sleep or what we would eat!!! amazing kindness!!

14th Feb 2012  Rasheed the farmer
Here is Rasheed, the simple muslim farmer that opened his home to us withiut any hesitation... he explained that it is the true Muslim way to welcome everybody as brothers... truly feeling that here in Morocco!!!

14th Feb 2012  Real muslim
We sat down in the middle of the village with our bikes, looking tired an dirty.... not even thirty minutes later this man, Rasheed#3 came to ask where we planned to sleep, as sundown was approaching and we looked terribly out of place! when we answered "we dont know" he couldnt invite us into his home fast enough!! immediately it was top notch Muslim hospitality!!!

14th Feb 2012  Farmer and family
We spent hours, literally, sitting with three generations of the family and looking at old family pictures....

14th Feb 2012  No Title
Don't believe anything you've ever heard about the muslim culture until you experience it for yourself, first hand!!! they are some of the most honest people ive ever come across!...

15th Feb 2012  Mine field??
For some reason, for miles and miles there were strategically placed stones alongside the road to add to the challenge!!!

15th Feb 2012  Another road to nowhere

15th Feb 2012  Foothills of the Sahara
What is that animal doing on my face??

15th Feb 2012  Serious hills
Here EL negotiates a very steep hill with a solid headwind... totally different than simply blasting thru on a bus!!!

15th Feb 2012  Rewarded with a view!!
Things are always clearer from the top!!

15th Feb 2012  Amazing luck!!
Having no idea where we'll stay, we rolled into this cluster of dwellings not big enough to be called a village... after some kind greetings we were offered the best house in the village... the house that they occasionally bus in rich tourists to show them how "traditional" Berbers live.. however, we know this to be a total fabrication designed to bring in some tourist money... the reality of these peoples lives is much different...

15th Feb 2012  Road???

16th Feb 2012  The desert sun sets
Its time to find shelter!!!

16th Feb 2012  No Title

16th Feb 2012  Inside the tourist house!!
Man it was such a cool experience to have them open up this house to us, gave us a chance to escape the wind and cook a nice dinner of Tajeen!!!

16th Feb 2012  A fisherman mends his nets
For hours i watched this man create a massive fishing net by hand from a spool of twine... thru many games of advanced schrades, i came to find that a full sized net takes a man of this advanced experience level twenty five hours to create!!

16th Feb 2012  Organic music
Anything that makes a sound is a viable instrument!! here the guys just make noise and shake to it!!! outstanding!!!

16th Feb 2012  Our humble abode
They opened up a hut for us to store our bikes and throw our ads down... absolutely adaquate!!

16th Feb 2012  Tajeen!!
Its truly a community affair!!

16th Feb 2012  Earning my keep!!
Ive gotten pretty handy with a well and bucket, its a learned skill if youve never done it!!!

16th Feb 2012  No Title

17th Feb 2012  Absolutely brilliant!!
They make the best of whatever they have, which is not much... here a man showed me how to take an empty plastic bottle and use it to amplify the sound from a cell phone speaker into a sound that filled the room!!!

17th Feb 2012  Tajeen
Once i communicated that i will be showing these pictures to my family back in America, they made the "take a picture" hand motion almost non stop!!! i have dozens more where these came frrom!!!

17th Feb 2012  My Moroccan brothers
Remember that most of this light is comming from the camera flash, at night we exclusively used candle light as there is no electricity in the entire village... as a side note, always keep in mind that we do not speak a word of the same language!!! totally transforms the experience!!

17th Feb 2012  Old fisherrman
This fisherman lives in a tiny wood hut the size of a small closet in a large bush, where he has resided for the past thirty two years....

17th Feb 2012  Always learning
Do u know that it is not possible to ride a fully loaded touring bike thru pure sand???... i do now..

17th Feb 2012  Road??

17th Feb 2012  See her down there??

17th Feb 2012  Steep hills, strong winds

17th Feb 2012  Last resort
After a quick scan of the area i found an old abandoned cattle stall that smelled of death, but was protected from the wind... but luckily we didnt have to sleep in the dirt this time, we were again invited in to sleep in a home... beautiful...

18th Feb 2012  No Title

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