Destination: ____________?
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Qosqo: Inti Raymi Ah, sweet bed. Private room. Hurry to get up? Nope! Today was the day of the big festival Inti Raymi, Festival of the Sun. The party would be going all day. What’s the rush? Mac and I went down for breakfast at 8:30. Many of my friends were amped to meet up. Tamara and Muriel had messaged me to meet at 8AM. Doh, missed them! Eh, I would find them. As I was checking my other messages, a chick sat down at my table and started firing off the usual where are you from, how long have you been traveling, where did you come from, questions. Not really in the mood for conversation, I fucked with her by only speaking Spanish. She didn’t understand. Por que? No habla Español? She moved to another table and annoyed someone else. Hee hee! Bueno! After being on an itinerary for the past few days, I did not want to schedule meeting up with people and then have to wait for others. I made a half-hearted attempt to coordinate with others by posting my planned general whereabouts on Facebook: 10AM Starbucks Plaza de Armas. Today I wanted things to happen by chance. Of my dozen friends roaming around the festival I was bound to run into them. Taking a shower, putting on clean clothes and make-up made me feel like a whole new woman. I took my fine ass down the hill to Plaza de Armas. Holy Crap! Packed! Duh, of course. OK. Starbucks. I tried to make my way to the corner but was unable to go down the alley to access the entrance. Cerrado. Police were blocking it off for the start of the procession. OK, try to go around the block maybe another entrance. On my mission, I passed a pasty chick wearing pink leg warmers. Fail. No entry on any of the other sides. Scratch Starbucks. Back to the Plaza de Armas. Again, passing pasty pink leg warmers again. The procession was starting with some “Inkas” walking with offerings. I went to get a better vantage point at the top of the steps in front of the Cathedral. I glanced around for Mr B, Abi, Ana, Pablo and Ramiro since I knew they had planned to meet in that area around 8. Nope! Too many people. Over the loud speaker, the announcer was explaining what was going on in Quechua and Spanish. The speakers were not clear. Even if he was speaking English I would not know what the hell was happening. Whatever, more fun to make up my on story. It was hard to see. There were men selling stool options for 2 soles. A Peruvian man paid for a stool and stood next to me. Him and I laughed when I did a relevé and was as tall as him on the stool. The colorful performers continued to come out to dance, to play music or to reenact something. There would be stretches of a hypnotic: Doo dih doo DO DOO, Doo dih doo DO DOO (repeat). You are getting verrrry sleeeeepy. You neeeeed some coffee. Dammit, the Starbucks mermaid was calling out to me! I wasn’t able to see. The music was putting me to sleep. Where are all the explosions that usually go along with these things? Once the Inka King Head came out, I was ready to move. The procession would be moving up to the hilltop of Saqsaywamun pronounced like “Sexy Woman” in a bit. I was getting squished in the crowd and feeling a bit claustrophobic. Time to check Starbucks again. Sweet, I got in! There was a long line but at least now I could see more action in the Plaza below. This was my first Vainilla Soy Latte since the airport in SFO. I felt like a whore but glad to get something other than Nescafe! The barista asked my name in typical fashion and I noticed she actually spelled my name correctly. Ah, the little things in life that make me happy. As I was waiting for my beverage, I saw the procession was starting to leave the square. Once I got my latte in hand, I was on the run. Make on the street, the slick cobblestones made me trip and slide a few feet on my knees with them spread wide. I was more amused than embarrassed since I felt like I preformed one of Danny Zuko’s moves in Grease when he was professing his love to Sandra Dee. Was I professing my love to the evil mermaid? I was impressed that I did not even spill a drop of my caffeinated elixir. I still had not spotted any of my people. Screw it, I am rolling with the Peruvians today. Checking out the flow of traffic, the tourists were following the procession and many Peruvians were taking another road. I followed them along the narrow cobblestone alleyways and up the back road to Saqsaywamun. I checked out the hill overlooking the stage below. Packed. To my right, I saw Peruvians running across the field to an adjacent hill that was still pretty empty. I am going to score a front spot on that hill. There was empty space next to a lady and her 2 sons who comes every year and another Peruvian lady who came for 1st time. There was a guy selling ponchos. Funny, it was threatening to rain for the Sun festival, my new friends found that amusing too. This was people watching on crack. As I saw women passing wearing their typical mochillas (backpacks) made out of a folded blankets, I thought “Brilliant! These ladies are always ready for a picnic in the park”. Traditionally attired folks with there llamas or baby alpacas (many approaching foreigners asking for a few soles for a photograph). Searching the crowds, no signs of any of my people but I did spot “pink leg warmers” AGAIN! A group of 4 more Peruvians squeezed in with me. Even though I had forgotten to eat lunch, I was well feed. I had shared my maiz. Then my two ladies shared their habas (dried beans) and sweet potato chips. Our new friends shared their popcorn. I was glad that after several days of speaking nothing but English, my Spanish hadn’t suffered. My new friends were impressed with my abilities. A dude from Hong Kong that also squeezed up with us was completely lost. Soon the entertainment started again. More of the music: Doo dih doo DO DOO, Doo dih doo DO DOO with dancers marching in place also appearing to be in a trance. Then the Sun King came out. More: Blah, Blah Blah speeches. There were stands surrounding the stage with seats costing $135 (based on what my Peruvian friends told me). The speakers were pointed towards them and the stage rather than the surrounding hillside for the people sitting to be able to hear. I wondered if this was a show catering to tourists. Where is the real party? There still was no explosions. It started to get cold. Some of the Peruvians were on the move. I had enough. I started walking down the windy road back to the city through the eucalyptus trees making me feel like I was walking through Golden Gate Park. Outside the park, there were tons of vendors selling trinkets and food. Alpaca kebabs wear being grilled up. I skipped those but did say yes to some quinoa chicha. The lady poured my serving into my Starbucks cup and smiled. She had nice teeth, very rare. I thought even if this chicha was fermented with traditional methods, using her mastication, at least she looked like she had good hygiene. Back at Pirwa Hotel, I finally ran into one of my friends. Denise was leaving me a note telling me to meet with her, Johannes, Tamara, Muriel and a few others for dinner. By now, I had my fill of sola time and Peruvian interaction to make me happy. Dinner was at another Govinda. Two others from Denise’s trek joined us Corey, from Tahoe who I had run into on Day 2 on the final ascent to 4600M, and Jennifer from SF but moving to Davis. Dinner was non-stop talking. Catching up about our treks. After dinner, Tamara and Muriel left us since they were to tired to go for drinks. First, we got a round of Cusqueña pints (roja y negra) at an Irish pub on the Plaza de Armas. I was excited some of my favorite beers. Delirium being one but at S.48 ($18), I would wait to get one at the Tipsy Pig in SF for only $9. Me and Corey were wanting to find a Peruvian party. The bartender told us about a place. On the was there, a tout was also trying to get us to go. Me, “Hay gringos?” Gleefully he responded, “SI!!” Wrong answer. Spotting 2 police officers, we inquired about a Peruvian bar but it was closed. The others did not end up sharing mine and Corey’s enthusiasm. They wanted to go to Mama Afrika or Loki to meet up with more friends. I was disappointed. However, into my first Chilcano, I started to feel the party vibe. No crazy drunk Peruvians or things exploding but I still had a blast dancing until 2AM with my posse of gringos.
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