Betty & Katerina
 Who the **** is Alice?! After all that driving we enjoyed a well deserved rest in Darwin lazing by the pool and hanging out in cafes. Although it hardly deserves the title `City` with only one main street the place had a certain charm and the hot climate was most welcome, especially without the added humidity everyone had threatened. Our 10 day organised tour began bright and early on 21st October with a 6:30 start. We met our guide Buzz (that`s right he used to be a bee keeper) and boarded a 4x4 truck along with 14 others, ready for our three day Kakadu National Park adventure. First stop was `Fogg Dam` a failed project to grow rice back in the 1950s which is now a wetland habitat for many bird species as well as saltwater crocs and buffalo. A great palce to watch the sunrise and learn about all the different types of wildlife. Next up was the Mary River wetland croc cruise, a 2 hour boat trip through a billabong home to salties (harmful) and freshies (friendly) as they are known. More fascinating birds here too such as the jabiru (Australian stalk) and Wedge tailed Eagle (one of the world`s largest birds of prey). By lunch time we were inside the national park and stopped off for an assembly line lunch of wraps and sandwiches (the truck carries all of your camping gear and food for the trip). There were also some brumbies here (wild horses). Our activity for the afternoon was a 45 minute walk up to the top of the `Barramundi Falls` where we were rewarded with a beautiful water hole to swim in. Liz got to do a bit of physio practice as a lad called Dan managed to dislocate his shoulder and she had to put it back in place (so much for the career break). Towards the end of the afternoon we drove further into the park stopping to collect firewood and in time to see the sunset over `Yellow Water` wetlands (so named as all the introduced buffalo species destroyed the area leaving nothing but muddy water). Buzz also pointed out a dingo to us here. Our first night was spent at a `bush camp` (a very basic setup with just a fire pit and an environmentally friendly `long drop toilet`). Time to get to know our fellow travellers including; Aussie Chris (a brilliant character who single handedly cooked the BBQ and entertained with his amusing banter), two lovely chicks Fran and Georgia (see you in Melbourne ladies), Mike and Christine (spot on Irish / English couple), friendly Sue from Switzerland, four whinging poms, a crazy Austrian lady and a few others. So a real mixture of characters and nationalities. Without needing any time to shower, we were up early for a campfire prepared raisin toast breakfast (yum) and ready to explore more of this amazing park. To wake everyone up Buzz drove us out to twin falls via a rather bumpy 4x4 track which even included a small river crossing. Another short boat trip gave us the chance to admire a beautiful gorge and spot barramundi, turtles and lots more beneath the crystal clear water. A short walk over rocks and along a boardwalk brought us to a lovely little beach at the base of the twin falls. Definitely not a swimming spot though with all those potential `salties` about so we all made do with a lie down on the sand. After another picnic style lunch we set off for the starting point of the Jim Jim falls walk (or `Jim Jim wall` as Buzz named it at this time of year, in the wet season they can only be viewed from a helicopter). A four hour 8km round trip it was a fairly decent trek to the top but well worth it for the stunning views over the park. Chris kept us entertained with his motivational `footie coach` style speeches and a welcome distraction from the moans of the whinging poms! At the summit we enjoyed a much deserved dip (or rather wash due to the lack of showers at camp) as well as the biscuits dished out by Buzz. By the time we made it back to the base of the falls it was late afternoon and so we headed on to our second night`s campground. Enjoyed an eagerly anticipated shower and a chance to sample `damper` (s sort of scone / bread baked on a campfire). Early to bed (a bit of a hardship having to put up our own tents as no Leo around) after a long day. `Cultural day` was the name for our final day in Kakadu, they still let the two of us come along though! En route to `Nanguluwur` rock art site we passed a frilled lizard (`Frilly`) which Buzz caught - a fantastic site to see. They have a slogan here (`we prefer our lizards frilled not grilled`) with regards to bush fires which we rather like! `Nanguluwur` and `Ubirr` were two different rock art sites we visited with pictures from as recent as 40 years ago and unbeleivably as ancient as 50,000. Buzz gave a great talk on how they would have been used as an educational tool to pass on tradtitional knowledge by the aborigines and also helped us understand a little more about their fascinating culture. From the top of Ubir we had some amazing panoramic views out onto the flat plains of kakadu. Lunch was all you can eat veggie hot dogs (well we do like a challenge which is exactly what 3 tins of veggie dogs present to only two vegos). Via a swim at `Berry springs` we arrived abck in Darwin that evening. Everyone went out for a free dinner and a few celebratory bevs to round off the tour. In spite of the temptation (they cost about 5 quid a kilo here) we resisted the urge to partake in the `eat bananas from one anothers crotch` and such games that they seem to think backpackers want to play. For a while there we thought we`d arrived in Benidorm. Next morning following a revitalising 4 hours kip, it was another early start to commence stage two of the tour (Darwin to Alice Springs). A new group of people for this part and a new guide named `Horty`. Breakfast was at a place called `Adelaide River` where we had the chance to meet a former star of Crocodile Dundee, a rather stiff actor (alright don`t get too star struck it was a stuffed buffalo). A nutritious breakfast comprising iced coffee, icecreams and chocolate muffins well everyone else was having fry ups! Stop over for this day was Katherine `De ja vu`?! We arrived by lunchtime and had a somewhat familiar meal of D.I.Y. sandwiches. This campsite had permanent tents containing bunks which to us were quite a luxury. Chatting over lunch we met Mel and Amanda, founding members of a group known as `tits on tour`...and you think some of our stories are bad! The afternoon`s activity was taking a look around `Katherine Gorge` by kayak, helicopter or cruise at your own expense. Yes you`ve guessed it we chose the `relaxing and swimming option`. Liz has had enough of Kaz`s `one armed bandit` impressions in two man kayaks. In the evening we enjoyed getting to know some more of our fellow travellers including Aussie Pam (see Irene from Home and Away as a comparison), Jess and James (A.K.A. a MUCH younger version of Liz`s dad). Day 2 en route to Alice was a 700km drive (not that that phased us) and we took it upon ourselves to entertain Horty the guide from the front seats. We know how boring it can be to be the only ones awake whilst everyone snoozes the drive away. James also gave a good performance particularly when `the Macarena` came on. First stop was `Mattaranka hot springs` a lovely spot for a warm morning dip and also a chance to see a cute baby wallaby up close. Further down the road `tits on tour` gave us some insight into how they earnt their title with an impressive bus overtaking flashing display. That certainly got the guides concentration levels up. We enjoyed the somewhat more tame pursuit of getting trucks to honk their horns. Lunch was at `Daly Water`s` home to the world`s most remote traffic lights and the Northen Territory`s oldest pub (1930 ha ha how ancient). Juno`s horse farm near Tennant Creek was our camp for the night again with the luxury of permanent tents. The final part of the trip down to Alice Springs took us via `The Devils Marbles` - an area with huge round rocks and boulders in the middle of the desert and carrying great significance to the Aboriginal people. For us it was a good chance for our favourite pursuit (after eating) of silly photography. Lunch was served up at an aboriginal art gallery down the road (not too far from where all that Peter Falconio business occurred for the interest of all the parents) with some beautiful paintings and didgeridoos on offer. Final port of call before `Alice` was the Tropics of Capricorn (sorry we`ve forgotten what the guide told us about it). We were dropped off at our hostel `Alice`s Secret`, chosen as it had a trampoline. A quick turn around before the mandatory post tour social, well it`d be rude not to partake. Liz decided to introduce Kaz to the phenomenon of the `Jaegar bomb` and Jess, James and Amanda were also willing participants. Thankfully the next day`s departure was not until 11am so there was time to call in to the 24hr supermarket to purchase Kaz some replacement trainers, well she wouldn`t have bought home brand footwear sober!
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Diary Photos
| 26th Sep 2006 | |
| The terrible twosome | |
| Entering the national park of Kakadu |
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