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Towards the Axis of Evil
16th Nov 2009 - 19th Nov 2009
The Room Behind the Wall

The Room Behind the Wall

It looks like any ordinary cabinet; olive oil, tea tree oil, cider vinegar and a couple of tins of Quaker oats. Many would not know that behind this simple item of furniture lay an entirely new room, full of books dealing with ancient arabic medicine, herbal remedies and an english dictionary. It is Mahdy’s research room, where he has been writing his book for 4 years. Inside he completes his massages, cupping, and hot stones therapy. Oh its also where we drink tea, Karakaday and discuss the downfall of a certain corrupt president, deemed the “Crocodile.” Oh I often have to refute the claim I’m working for Al-Queda. I think something has been lost in translation if they think that! Bloody Al-Jazeera.
Mahdy is introducing me to all this herbal remedy malarky, something which is trusted far more than what we would consider conventional medicine such as paracetamol or bug spray. For example did you know that to keep mosquitos away, simply use peppermint oil. And that to reduce mosquito bite swelling as well as any itching use tea tree oil. Saves spending a fortune on lotions and creams! I have also used a cream that instantly removes sun burn and takes away any pain. Yes, instantly! Its a miracle cure for us pasty white brits I tell you. I forget what’s in it but everything is naturally sourced from Siwa. Most of the stuff being from his gardens on the edge of the desert.
Mahdy is also going to teach me how to massage properly, although after seeing it in practice it is definately not sensual in the slight. It looks like some kind of martial arts style of fighting, the poor person is ripped apart. The clicking of bones is foul, though apparently it is the ultimate in refreshing the body. The fact that Mahdy’s grandmother is 110 years old is possibly the best marketing that anybody could want.
Another health benefit of living in Siwa is the sand baths. The idea is to keep the body as hot as possible at all times. The sand is so hot and apparently has anti-rheumatosis qualities as well as for athiritis, this is usually followed by a dip in the hot spring and mud bath. Hundreds of Egyptians descend on Siwa in the summer for this reason alone. Maybe 400 at a time and it is impossible to find a hotel room.
The Siwans keep telling me to drink the water yet this is not advised! Trust me, I know the aftermath. Plus the smell alone is enough to off put you. The smell of Sulphur is really strong!
The food here is good, although I mainly stick to a vegetarian diet simply because it appears the Siwans cannot distinguish the difference between “meat” and a particular type of meat. This led to a humourous debate in the street. The meat available ranges from sheep to camel to beef occasionally. Of course no pork in this islamic environment especially since the H1N1 outbreak led to the extermination of every pig in Egypt. Fortunately there are no reported cases of Swine Flu in Siwa, although the apparent health check at Cairo Intl was a complete joke to be honest. If you are white, go straight through.
Watch oout for my dinner time on my arrival so I can cook some food related stuffs. Nom nom. Im not sure of the menu yet. I am currently eating Pommegrante and yoghurt. Realy quite delicious. Something quite perfect about a Pommegrante, or however you spell it.
Doing lots of exercise here. Around a 10km bike ride everyday followed by some swimming at Cleopatra’s pool. Cleo’s is one of the Roman springs that litter Siwa and is the biggest. Around 4-5m deep you can actually find jewellery at the bottom! Having tried, I have always failed as my ears pop at a certain depth annoyingly. Even with a snorkel mask and flippers. Oh accidentally I found myself trying out for the Siwa Football Club, Mr Fathi Omar seems to be believe that as I am British I can automatically play football. Will he get a shock!
Speaking of Football, last night Egypt failed to qualified for the World Cup; I was more disappointed than when Russia knocked England out of the European qualifiers. Bloody Algeria. They had to play a rematch in Sudan after the match a few days earlier led to a points draw. Picked up a few arabic profanities after last night.
Two new cardinal sins have slapped me in the face. Black coffee and sheesha. Too much of both, although I think my body is happy with the compromise with the lack of fast food and alcohol. God will he get a shock come Christmas. Hahahaha.
Having spoke to Paul, Emma and Becky (SHOUT OUT TO MY HOMIES AND HOMOS) the plans for Europe 2010 are in full swing and my expected arrival in the UK will be the 31st July. It gives me 100 days to travel and work by myself. I like this number. Its like around he world in 100 days but only covers Europe and the Middle East. it will see me through these countries:

Egypt
Jordan
Syria
Iran
Turkey
Greece
Macedonia
Bosnia
Serbia
Croatia
Slovenia
Hungary
Czech Republic
Italy
France
Holland
... and finally back to Great Britain.

I think this 100 days should have a title so suggestions please.

Got an email from the University of Birmingham yesters too! An unconditional offer to study Central Asian Studies MSc. Over 2 years so I can work and live in a nice flat in the Jewellery Quater or New Street area. Although the Mailbox is quite cheap at the moment. Need to find a job as soon as I get back! May try and get some agency work at chrimbo. Gotta get me some of that dollar ay? I think I have already changed in my work ethic, I don’t mind working for a crappy wage. It’s normal here. For 10 hours of farm labour, you get around 20LE which is about £2.20. Although that 20LE can buy you 8 eggs, 1 kilo of potatoes, 1 kilo of pasta, 1 kilo of tomatos and several peppers and chillis, as well as a collection of fresh fennel, corriander and parsley.
Really looking foward to get back to uni, this time I am not having any distractions! Need a good mark if I want a good job. And at last I could study Persia! Well at least in its modern entity.
This weekend should be quite quiet. Mahdy is in Cairo having dinner at the Hilton and the family are off to Alex to renew their Visa’s so I will spend my time relaxing and writing, planning the 100 days and thinking, “Crap, what if I got arrested in Iran for being a British spy. Oooooh how Spooks.” Oh Sophie, if your reading this please can I have an update. Love to y’all!
xxxx

Next: Marrying Randa
Previous: The Day the Internet Died


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