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Liward
4th Jan 2010 - 9th Feb 2010
Hocas Bocas -- Bocas del Toro

We’ve spent the last four weeks having a great time in Bocas del Toro, Panama. Bocas is only about 30 miles from the Costa Rican border on the Caribbean side. It’s a super laid back town located on one of six densely forested islands. It really reminds us of the Key West that existed about 40 years ago. Bocas originally started in 1899 as the location of the United Fruit Company, otherwise known as Chiquita Banana. Now it is a quaint town with plenty of bars, restaurants, backpacker and eco tourists, American ex-pats, and most importantly ----great surf!  Bocas is an easy place to get stuck.



Next: San Blas – And island for every day of the year
Previous: Bocas Bound - Back on the Road!


Diary Photos
5th Jan 2010
FAREWELL TOUR
After an overnight 34 hour sail from Colon, we arrived just in time to catch up with Roger and Linda on Sandcastle. We have traveled for the past year with Sandcastle but now they are heading back to the USA. So it was time for the farewell tour of Los Gringos! We only had about a week with Roger and Linda before a good weather window sent them sailing north. But we crammed lots of fun in a short time.


6th Jan 2010
HAPPY ANNIVERSARY
We even helped them celebrate their 42nd anniversary. One thing about this lifestyle is that you meet wonderful people. Now, we may be sailing in different directions but we will meet up again. It may be a large world but we find it is a very small ocean, especially among sailors.


7th Jan 2010
BOCAS DEL TORO
We anchored Liward in front of the Bocas Marina with its cool restaurant and bar and it’s only about an 8 minute dingy ride to town. Bocas town has plenty of small hotels and backpacker hostels. Many built over the water. There are a few cars on the island but most transportation is provided by water taxis.


8th Jan 2010
What's a girl to do?
So what is Lili doing while we visit a place that eats, drinks, and breathes surfing! There is a large ex-pat community here so there’s yoga every morning and two hours of Spanish in the afternoon. And of course plenty of “hanging around”. This El Point Bar doubles as the surfboard repair shop. They are really busy after a good swell!


9th Jan 2010
Lili's Cafe
And then there’s the new Lili’s Café! Just kidding! But it is not often that you see that name on a billboard!


10th Jan 2010
BUTTERFLY FARM
There’s the butterfly farm, built by a local biologist. Here’s some of the pre-butterfly catapillars. See how they chow down on the greenery!


11th Jan 2010
Blue Morpho
We chased this blue Morpho butterfly until we finally got a photo. Not a great picture, but after that much effort it was going on the website!


12th Jan 2010
Free Range Butterflies
Panama has beautiful butterflies everywhere so there's really no need to visit a butterfly farm but it was a fun afternoon.


13th Jan 2010
Our man LEO
And now, here’s the surfing section!!! First things first was finding a the perfect water taxi driver for all our transportation needs. Leo was the man, he drove his panga very safely and was always on time, even if it was 6:00 am!


14th Jan 2010
Surfing by boat
The ultimate way to travel to a surf break is by boat and all the spots in Bocas del Toro are accessible by hired Panga or your own dingy. Anchor outside the reef, jump out, and paddle in. Nothing to it!


15th Jan 2010
Carenero Point
An ultimate surf rush is pulling up to the break and it is really going-off with nobody in the water. You go crazy trying to get your boat anchored while everyone is scrambling for their board, sunblock, and wax. Every surfer wants to be the first one in the water to jump on a perfect tube!


16th Jan 2010
Steve at "Paunch"
Most of the surf breaks in Bocas del Toro are “lefts”, like this one named Paunch. For those who don’t surf, that is a wave which breaks to the left if you are out in the water and facing the beach. Steve is a “regular foot” which means he surfs a left breaking wave with his back to the wave face. Most folks probably did not think surfing had this much to it!


17th Jan 2010
Steve Under “Paunch’s” Lip
When the waves are smaller, Steve rides his Yater 8’6” fun shape. This is a classic shape and just right for tucking inside small tubing waves. Well, there is another surf term. A good surf break will produce a wave that forms a hollow or “tube” shape. The tube is an extremely serene place and only a moment inside feels like time is suspended.


18th Jan 2010
Ernesto and Ricardo duet at “Dumpers”
As soon as we got to Bocas Steve met a great group of surfers from Argentina who were onboard the sailing yacht Don Juan. Steve didn’t realize that while growing up learning to surf in Cocoa Beach, there were other guys, south of the equator doing the exact same thing. Here’s good friends, Ernesto and Ricardo, sharing their passion.


19th Jan 2010
Oso “The Bear”
Carlos also known as “Oso” (Spanish for “Bear”) owned one of the first surf shops in Mar de Plata, Argentina, many years ago. He lives mostly in the U.S. but hooks up with old friends for surf trips. He is a real hoot in and out of the water.


20th Jan 2010
Paky at "Dumpers"
Packi is Argentinian but lives full time in Bocas del Toro. He and his wife Melissa own a beautiful little waterfront hotel called El Limbo, and also a very unique outdoor restaurant called Bocas Bamboo. He grew up surfing in Argentina and made sure his old friends made port of call in Bocas. Packy and Melissa also produce the television show “Survivor Panama” for the international market. Talk about a perfect location! We think they definitely won the ultimate challenge.......living full time in Bocas!


21st Jan 2010
Michael at "Secret Spot"
Michael, our surf guide, is an excellent boat captain and surfer. He took us to this “secret spot” a few times. This wave is one of the few “rights” and this day we had it all to ourselves. Thanks buddy!


22nd Jan 2010
U. Steve at "Secret Spot"
When the waves pick up Steve rides his 7’6” Westwind pintail gun, a retro shape from the mid 1970’s. Steve surfs the “classic” style and has never made the transition to the modern shortboard. Hard to train a “old dog” new tricks.


23rd Jan 2010
DON JUAN
One afternoon we had a beach party with the Argentinians on “Wizard Beach” and took the beautiful Don Juan out sailing


24th Jan 2010
AT THE HELM
Don Juan is a beautiful 80 foot sailboat owned by Ernesto. It is really high tech, made of carbon fiber in Argentina. A fast boat and fun to sail. The captain on board was also a great photographer and he took some of the great surfing pictures.


25th Jan 2010
Just a little bigger!
These winches are a little bigger than the ones on Liward. And they are hydraulically powered…..so you just push a button and things happen!


25th Jan 2010
Just Relaxing
It was nice to sit back and relax while sailing, for a change!


26th Jan 2010
NEW FRIENDS
Some really great guys are now wearing new Liward t-shirts in Argentina! Steve looks forward to surfing with them again in another part of the world!


27th Jan 2010
Frogs, Frogs, Frogs,
Panama has some really interesting frogs. We’ve seen red, yellow, and neon. Every island or area seems to have their own color. We’ve spent the day at Red Frog Beach and stayed in the Golden Frog Inn in the mountains.


29th Jan 2010
La Coralina
On a bike ride to the other side of the island, we found a great open air restaurant/bar called La Carolina. It overlooks a couple of surfspots called “Paunch” and “Dumpers”. Once they found out that Steve plays, they asked him to come back and they didn’t have to ask twice. Talk about a perfect setting.


30th Jan 2010
Full Moon over La Carolina
And when the full moon came up over the water…..it was almost magical! Thanks for the great photo Deborah!


1st Feb 2010
We'll be back!
This picture pretty much confirms that we will be back to Bocas! Consistent waves, great breaks, and excellent rides mean we won’t be able to keep Steve away. But for now, we plan to sail back to Colon, Panama and leave the boat in Shelter Bay Marina while we fly back to Florida for a couple of weeks. There are birthdays to celebrate! Steve’s Dad and sister Sandra share the same day………and one will be 93!


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