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Big Bird on a Bike
30th May 2012 - 5th Jun 2012
Paradise is Valparaiso

I think I've found it!! After 25,000 miles, 32 countries and 4 continents I have finally found the only place in the world other than Culmstock, that I could see myself living. I thought La Paz, Baja California was the place, but now I know it's Valpo.

This city, as far as I'm concerned, really is heaven on earth. It is set around a huge bay on the Pacific Ocean with a small business district on the flat ground around the port. From there the rest of the city scrambles up and over the surrounding hillsides in a chaotic collection of rainbow-coloured houses, narrow winding alleyways, staircases and "ascensors" (ancient wooden cable cars). Every corner of the city is decorated with street art - not just graffiti, but fabulous murals and even the lamp posts and stair treads are decorated with paintings or mosaics. You could live here for ever and still discover new things to see every day. At every turn there are spectacular views out over the glistening blue ocean, so I don't feel hemmed in and claustrophobic as I do in most cities. It's also blessed with a vast array of bars and restaurants - everything from cheap, local seafood restaurants in the dodgy downtown district to foreign-owned coffee shops up on the classy hills. The only drawback is that steep, cobbled streets and unexpected staircases make it a seriously un-cycle friendly place, but I needed a rest from the bike, anyway.

I have spent almost a week just wandering the streets, writing letters in little cafes and sipping wine on terraces with fabulous views. Chile also offers an incredible array of fruit and veg, so I've gone a bit veggie mad, but eating plates full of broccoli, broad beans and even Brussel sprouts (my favourite) has played havoc with my insides!

I have also bumped into my friend Roma (he of the mine and wine tours) again, so it's been good to catch up. He can't believe that he is travelling by bus and me by bike, yet I'm keeping up with him.

Yesterday, with a German friend called Ronny, I headed out of town to a small fishing village just down the coast. A beautiful place, but nothing like I imagined Chile to be. If it weren't for the huge pelicans and a penguin or two it could have been anywhere in Cornwall. We scrambled round the rocks to a gorgeous stretch of golden sand. Shame it was way too cold to swim. Also investigated a former whaling station, which is now a museum, but for many years slaughtered thousands of vast, blue whales - all for export to Japan. Apparently the village stank to high heaven in those days, not much fun for the locals, who weren't even employed there.

Well, much as I am in love with Valpo I only have 4 weeks left in Chile, so it is time to move on. Unfortunately the weather further south is colder and wetter than here, but that's where the famous Lake District is, so I'm going to brave the weather and see how it goes.

I've been following the Diamond Jubilee on the news and it looks like you all had a great, if rather soggy, weekend. Why do I always miss all the extra Bank Holidays?

Keep those messages coming for my last few weeks on the road and I look forward to seeing many of you in less than 2 months' time.



Next: Wet, wet, wet.
Previous: Chilling out in Chile


Diary Photos

Valparaiso

Rainbow city

Valpo

The Pacific


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