Crikey that was a long trip. 24 hours almost to the minute. Found Hotel via Paddington Station & deep snooze for a couple of hours then finding the Victoria Hotel nearby for a re-unite with a pint of London Pride. Hope the bot recovers from an agonising journey that doesn't get better with age.
Beautiful day, slow bus trip across town to Tate Modern ( a must). Walk along Thames to Burough Market ( thanks for the heads up Pietro) & London Bridge (obviously resurrected) & long train home via Circle.
Nice morning for a stroll so down to Hyde Park at the end of our street & across to The Victoria & Albert Museum on the other side. Dined at our favourite cafe while we waited for our booking to the Pink Floyd Exibition. Very much like the Bowie one in Melbourne recently it explored their development through each album with multimedia presentations and finishing with a surround sound video extravaganza. Well worth it. Afternoon spent separately, Dale shopping, me retracing steps of previous visits & searching for somewhere to eat tonight. Found a French endeavour in Greengate followed by an ale at Leinster Arms.
Addendum
Just to explain the photo /art, there was an exhibition of photographs that relate to current issues and there were about 10 photographers chosen. The themes were:
Refugees in Greek camps caught in an endless night behind screens and unseen
The proliferation of concrete slab buildings throughout the world made by developers for profit using illegally mined sand(a major component of concrete is sand) that are depleting resources
The everyday discomfort of train travel in a crowded city in Japan
The effect of micro plastics in the ocean through their absorption into the food chain
tiny tiny cupboards that are the home of the very poor in hong kong, a well off city that has no fall back welfare
Photos of the surface of mars
Immigrants fleeing Syria on boats being met by security forces who are trained to deal with footy hooligans rather than refugees
A really good exhibition that gave a snapshot of the world in 2016
i realised that after I'd posted the Blog around 23:30 last night that I'd made no mention of what had happened in Manchester. Of course it's everywhere on the media over here & I can't help but tear up with every reference I hear or see. No doubt security every where today will be actioned up. Our hearts go out to all those families & friends touched by the tradegy. We can only imagine what they're going through. Of course we'll carry on with our journey as it now continues with its added tension of much sorrow. CDW
Well what a difference a day makes
We started out in London and are now in Utrecht which is lovely. London was a huge crowded city which was hard work with heavy jet lag
We arrived here to full sunshine and a lovely hotel that has acres of garden because it dates back to hundreds of years ago when it was a monastery. It was derelict then redone. Great work you Dutch visionaries.
As I sit in our room writing this Chris is channel hopping and what has he found but George columbarus on master chef! They love us here. The first thing I saw was a poster for 'lion' which is an Aussie film being displayed rather than American crap Then they had an Australian ice cream store with a queue then there was a nz clothes store. And then a gallery/ museum showing aboriginal art. How surprising. They are very cool. Utrecht is a university town and it shows with everyone in the town out at the cafes enjoying the wonderful weather
I look forward to exploring more tomorrow
After a big meal at our Hotel last night with matching wines including some from Greece & UK & finishing with the Pedro, we had a late start in beautiful weather. I decide to get a better view of all from the Dom Tower whilst Dale joined the rest of the population shopping. The carillon was being played while we were up the top. It seems locals can't get enough of the sun as in cafe restaurants they're all positioned to obtain max exposure. Relaxing walk along canals finished off afternoon.
We have moved on a short train trip from Utrecht to Rotterdam where the weather is a bit too warm for comfort so I am hiding out in our high rise accom while Chris pounds the streets. His energy levels are remarkable!
Rotterdam was one of the most bombed parts of Europe so the buildings are all high rise and modern (read anonymous). The high rise we are in has a view over the city. Inside it is a white cube with a little grey. Minimalist is the style , so a complete contrast to Utrecht. Rotterdam could be anywhere in a way The contrast between London and Utrecht was also huge tourism and immigration in London are massive I think London is 10 million plus and it feels as though it is bursting at the seams, just coping with moving vast numbers of people through its choked roads we stayed near Paddington station which was very cosmopolitan (read middle eastern ) with all the workers speaking many many languages, possibly Eastern European you had the sense that London is a melting pot with everyone wanting a piece of it, including us I guess we added to their crowds
In our London hotel everyone had a middle eastern background so while being in London it felt like 'faux' London. The contrast with Utrecht was in its calm local Dutch style. Everyone was Dutch. It wasn't commercial in the old city at least No ads, no graffiti, no mess. We felt totally at home as though we belonged which I guess is looking back to simpler times The Dutch are very calm easy going people who all speak English so it's a comfortable place to travel
And while I am rambling and thinking of how commercial the huge cities are, we did a quick trip to Oxford ( we were on the train line to it in Paddington ) and we went past a massive brick walled fortress being built. It was huge. Just a cream brick was without Windows that stretched for a mile or more. I thought it might be a huge bomb shelter taking the whole population of Oxford, or maybe a storage place for dangerous chemicals. We found out it was a new Westgate shopping centre being built! It looked so monolithic and unwelcoming. But no doubt it will do well
I think I am sounding like an old Cassandra who complains about change so time to shut up. But travel does make you see things with an outsiders eye so it's best not to make quick assumptions and just take in what each place has to offer
Ramble complete. It's cooling down as night comes.
Sunday in Rotterdam very quiet/dead. I arose early to go to Maritime Museum but it didn't open until 11:00am & we wanted to get to Deft by lunchtime. So the trams & I wandered the streets me looking for food. Almost succumbed to a Maccas but was saved by a Hotel named Bazaar being open. Train to Delft took 20 mins & you alight from a modern station into a 17 century village built on canals. By now, lunchtime, it was bustling but not crowded so we strolled canals & enjoyed the vibe. Of course we found the Vemeer Museum which presented well his life in Delft. Luckerly we got a white conveyance to take us to the Royal Delft porcelain museum. Watch for the swinging bag here I say. More stroll & back to Rotterdam for our last night.
we got seriously Arte farte today as we hit the Amsterdam galleries with gusto First the rijksmuseum for an entree then the modern art gallery for lunch then the Rembrandt studio museum for dessert. all were good. Tthe rijksmuseum was the most crowded and that is always a challenge as the most famous paintings have big crowds. The modern art gallery was nearby and more fun . There were a number of exhibitions but the one we liked best was a photo portraitist Rineka Dijkstra whose portraits were direct and engaging I liked all of her work. Ones that stood out were portraits of Oliver taken over 8 years from before he joined the army til 8 years later. The hardness that comes into his eyes says a lot . Another piece had a young Russian girl who was being critiqued by her teacher as she danced over and over again the same piece . Seeing how hard she tried and how ruthlessly she was treated was very powerful
We finished the day at rembrandts studio. It was the original 17th century house. I got carried away with the details of how he mixed paint etc as you may see from the photos
Amsterdam is a lovely city. It has a sense of confidence and calm, except for the bikes that go whizzing in every direction. The people seem happy with their city and relaxed about sharing it. The harsh aspects of beggars on the streets of London are not obvious here. There is not the same sense of desperation of the extremes of a highly commercial society . Everyone seems happy not to flaunt wealth. Everyone pedals their bike and ostentatious wealth is not obvious.
Rotterdam was a harder place to like n a short period. It's character seemed to have been knocked out of it by war and replaced by anonymous high rise buildings. It's a real warning to cities like Melbourne where developers have a lot of power
I guess all cities can't have the same beautiful character as Amsterdam but it's a real demonstration of how much you gain by respecting what you have.
The weather has gone from low 30's to about 18 so that changes the vibe a bit. I wonder what tomorrow will be.
Our last day in Amsterdam but Dale's got an upset tum & needs a rest so after some bedside assistance I'm off on my own devices. Had to be local so went behind us to the Amsterdam Museum to study the history followed by an open boat canal cruise from next door. Only 5 of us on the cruise so pretty special & the smaller boat enabled us to travel up small, narrow canals. Always fascinating trying to understand the development of the city around what was at the time the world's busiest port (17 C). And we think our land is expensive. Blossom made a big effort late arvo & we visited the New Church at the Dam & saw The World Press Photo Exhibition 2017. Harrowing pictures of just what a mess our world is in and a reminder of how important it is to support photographers & journos to be able to report the atrocities. One of the best & lighter photos was of Gail Monfries lunging for a shot at the Australian Open. Off to Venice tomorrow. Hope the dicey tum's up to the Italian cooking!
It was along days travel, including two and a half hour car trip through flat areas that reminded me of Diggers Rest til we reached..... sound trumpets .... our country winery estate in the middle of no where, or at least very little. We felt like the only ones here but after the big city with small spaces it feels like we can relax. A big room with big spaces around it, and no people. Phew!
Anyway castella Di Spezza is pretty speccy. A country estate of the most spacious kind. But not near anywhere, so that is where Sonya came in as a guide to show us Trieste. The weather is low thirties and it's a public holiday so everyone is out to bake on the pavements on the side of the road overlooking the ocean, or where ever there is access to the beautiful coastline
We learned a hundred percent more than we knew about Trieste which wasn't hard as I knew nothing It was Austrian for more than 500 years but after a vicious world war 1 and a nazi period in world war 2 it was finally claimed as part of Italy in 1956. Being a port onto the Mediterranean, many countries can see its value. So it sits at the uneasy axis between the west and Venice and the more transitional eastern end of the Mediterranean. Not a comfortable place to be with the Austrians behind you and the Serbian and Croatians within sight. And although we saw little evidence of large scale immigration such as we have seen in England and the Netherlands, Sonya said that there is a lot of concern about the large numbers of immigrants coming to Italy from the north of Africa. The only real evidence of immigration that has been obvious to us has been here at our accom, where the porter/ breakfast host has been ..... Bangladeshi. Who would have thought. I gather he has been here 10 years in which time he has gone back and married and brought back the wife and sister in law who has married the gardener, also bangaladeshi. There is a pretty remarkable story there, I reckon.
So the value of all this is what you learn about somewhere else about which you kne little. Except my auntie Reinee who told me before we left that in this area they used to say 'Verdi, Verdi ' which was code for Italian nationalism disguised as an interest in the composer. In fact it was an anagram for 'victor emannuelle regent de italia'. When the guide said that I said that I knew that because my aunt had told me. Well done auntie Reinee!
That's it for Trieste Over and out.
Easy day with wonderful guide Sonia visiting Redipuglia War Memorial, Duino Castle & Gorizia ( birthplace of our travel agent).
Vale Rhonnie.
"Never mind"
Sorry ran out of puff last night. We had a very full day with lovely guide touring Cividale where the old 15? Century town on a lovely river included an archeological museum dealing with the Longobards from Scandinavia who conquered 6-8 centuries & then on to lunch at a very local Osteria. After lunch we scrapped the prosciutto factory for a trip into Slovenia Wine area. Very expansive & impressive. On way home we're entertained by owner, Anastasia, of a large winery & took a particular liking to the Refosca Dal Peduncolo Rosso. Another 🍷 to add to the list.
We are confined to barracks for a while here in Udine as outside it thunders and lightnings. The barracks here as probably as good as we will ever get so that is not so bad. Maurizio tells all the hotels it is our anniversary in the hope we will be upgraded and in this case it seems to have worked. We love the Hotel
Udine is lovely. It is just the right size and shape. It has an older Centre, where we are, and then the surrounding suburbs to give it enough population to support a city. It is easy to walk everywhere and there are no tourists. So you fit right into the city.
Yesterday we had Sonya take us around, first to cividale, then to a Slovenian town called Smartin. The border is just a few Ks out of Udine. Just over the border there is a casino 90 percent used by Italians who aren't alllowed a casino, so it seems very cunning by the Slovenians. Petrol is also cheaper there.
The drive through the countryside to the hill top town was beautiful. It has beautiful hills and valleys covered by wines and cherries. Really lovely. The land is productive and natural
Our soujourn in Slovenia was brief and on the way back to Udine we called into a winery that Sonya had connections to. Of course this was right up Chris's alley, especially as we had the owner taking us through the wines with local cheese and salami. It was very generous and a really personal experience.
On the way back to town Sonya pointed out an old army barracks where refugees are housed. We have seen African, afghani and Indian people in the town. She said that each region is obliged to take a certain number and it obviously causes some hard feeelings. It is an area of high unemployment and there is resentment of money going to those while others do it very tough. From our point of view the numbers are relatively small after having seen the Netherlands and London. But this is a very local area with a strong sense of identity. They are Fruili an and even have their own language. To us the identity of the people seems strong and their culture relatively intact. I am wondering if you can have economic growth and not sell something of yourself away so perhaps that's the way it is. I think a big worry is what their kids will do for employment and Italians do love their families so for children to leave would hurt them. But I guess that is an issue all over the world
Finally one of the images I will carry from Udine happened on our first night when we were walking back from dinner. We turned a corner and on the logggia of an old building there were dancers dancing the tango. It was completely magical one of the most beautiful things I have seen. They had a marble floor to dance on and they alll danced superbly. I think they were part of a club. One older man danced wonderfully and as we stood watching he came over to me and asked me to dance. Believe me if I had any knowledge of the tango I would have but I had to say no. He was just the loveliest man. If you know Leonard cohens 'Dance me to the end of Love' and can imagine the beauty of that song played out in dance, then you will have some idea of how beautiful it was.
I hope there was a spirit who danced with them that night.
and what a wonderful sight it is
Well this is what the trip was all about. We arrrived by train yesterday & met up with our 19 other fellow campaigners & erstwhile Leader. Nothing disappointed & Hotel also a winner. Today we headed off to the Giardino (sort of botanical gardens) where many of the older country pavilions are. All much easier than expected & all so accessible. We spent all morning there then off to a long lunch followed by visits to old venetian buildings housing other countries' exhibits. I apologise for lack of detail on photos but quite frankly I don't know there's so much & I'll chase it up later. Sure!
Wer'e moving along on a tour & it's full on. Minimal time to download photos & comment so bare with I'll catch up in a few days. Also I-pad is overloaded which doesn't help. So look over previous & future entries for new photos.
Despite all the bad publicity about how Venice is over burdened with tourists, Venice is still spectacular A beautiful city like no other
We are into the biennale full on Today it was the Damien Hirst exhibition 'treasures from the wreck of the unbelievable. Damien Hirst'. It really plays with your mind. It's all fabricated but gives the discovery of fake wreck in the 1980's and creates all the 'antiquities' that are pulled up from the deep It is kitch, gaudy, o.t.t and amazing. My mind hurts
Earlier in the day we went to another exbibition in a wonderful old Venetian building/ gallery. Like mona it was a mix of older collections and new stuff mixed into the three levels. I hope some of Chris's photos get through. He is having trouble uploading which is a shame as he has great photos I really enjoyed that one
The pace is considerable, but being led around Venice streets takes out the stress of being lost. It is working really well.
The weather is about 30 ish so the cool galleries are welcome. From photos Dani has sent of the Carlton match it looks really cold in Melbourne. Not here
Enough is enough. Time to rest
& I say Go Blues!
Church galleries, palazzo galleries and the Peggy Guggenheim gallery A day when too much art was not enough. The weather stays at a steady 30ish but the breezes coming through laneways off canals are a winner. But generally it is hot.
We are away from the crowds that are in st Marco and at the doges palace. The rest is ok.
We are still on our feet which is good going
A very relaxing day on board a bus back to the Fruili Region to visit Aquileia one of the top five Roman cities 1-3rd century. It was a major port for access to northern & north eastern parts of the Roman Empire. The Roman Road from A to Austria is still the route taken by today's roads. The archaeological museum features many ancient mosaic floors etc. but the standout feature was the unearthed mosaic floor in the nearby Basilica of Aquileia built around 300AD. After a too big lunch we visited Grado which was where the Romans scattered after A was sacked by the Huns. Now a coastal holiday retreat there wasn't much to see. We with others took our Leader out for a local dinner when we got back.
A big day again, starting with a revisit to the giardini or gardens to the linguistically challenged. Where the different countries have their pavilions. The French pavilion was the most memorable because it was a space set up for music. The space was accoustically designed and had five musicians improvising, led by and African 'xylophone' player. It was wonderful and really showed what a universal language music is I. It made you feel that harmony was achievable in music and life.
In the afternoon the lunch on the island of torcello was a farewell and a real salute to Italian respect for good seafood done simply but very well. Torcello is an island out in the Laguna. It was a first settlement area which was now bypassed It has a strange left behind feeling but it also has a very ancient byzantine church (see photos).
A water taxi back into Venice and then farewell to Nick, the group leader, and to the 21 group members. I must admit I shed no tears as I don't love groups and their pecking orders but the fluid way we moved around Venice was the payoff. That worked really well and Nick knew his stuff
We head off to bologna, where we catch the plane home. Our last experience of hot weather (34) before we hit reality in more ways than one
So arriva deci Venice and hello Bolshoi Bologna, where they are planning a transport strike. Remember those?
Have just witnessed a procession from Basilica San Petronius, hundreds with candles and hymns blaring for the feast of Corpus Christi? The Basilica happens to be next to our hotel on Piazza Maggiore in Bologna. Home of the Bolognese themselves, ragu sauce & heaps of other food & wine which is at arms reach everywhere you go. Bologna is an old but worn out looking city which was very important in the Middle Ages being at the crossroads of several large towns such as Ravenna, Florence & Venice & being the home of the first university. Of the population of around 600,000 bods 100,000 are students. I did a walking tour this arvo then met up with Bloss for an outside antipasto board & drink. Currently 25deg at 11:00pm so a couple of hot days to end our trip with.
Man it is hot here. The temperature stays hot day and night and it is a city without air conditioning or user friendly public transport so it's walk or else. So hot. Hard to be a free ranging tourist without loving a steady 35 or so It is not a tourist city so there is little English but it is a city that is confident in what it is It has a strong sense of identity and confidence in its strengths And it has many strengths Like it's wonderful library with the best chairs for casual computer use that I have seen Boy they are good And the library is built on the foundations of 1st to 3 rd Roman foundations In fact bologna is a seriously historic city, with a gothic style which is ancient Their university is the oldest ever and their anatomy hall dates back to the 1600,s it's a really old, proud We went to a photo exhibition of the city which showed the city from the start of photog until now European cities have some complex history, especially the bombing an War and through fascist periods. Hard take in
The only seriously air conditioned spaces are the major chain stores like Zara, H&M etc so you can see how major chains take over the world . The coolest I have been all day is in a clothing place
Anyway sorry to be so superficial. The food an wine culture is wonderful so that is a real evening bonus to go out to eat The food an wine here are wow. It's a non fast food culture so the people look healthy and good food is a given. Their food is a joy and so lean and un saucy. The quality is in the ingredients. They don't mess with them too much.
Anyway I am at rambling stage, so that will do
Arrivadeci from Bologna
It was going to be an easy final day but we just went from Museo to Basilica & kept going so consequently too stuffed AGAIN to be too effusive here. First stop Museo Civico Medievale a lovely palazzo filed with arty farty good local medieval objects, many stairs of course. I then went next door for art between wars while Dales enjoyed a cool cafe. Had a cold local cuts lunch on our terrace then caught a taxi for a fling out of centre of town first to San Michele in Bosco & a good view of city then on to San Luca Basilica which can also be accessed by a 3 to 4m arcade up the hill, quite spectacular. Taxi dropped us off at the National Art Gallery which had a great collection of 13, 14 Century altar pieces & frescos (Giotti/Rafaela a couple to mention) Right on lwith the girl's interest. On to the city walking past the Uni through arcaded streets. Very easy to do as most of the city is blocked to cars on weekends. Bologna for me has been very enjoyable despite the heat. Not a real tourist destination but the locals like to out & about all day & night. I reckon we've given the 5 weeks a good go so looking forward to elaborating when we return.