Diary for Peter & Joan's Adventures


The Countdown begins

2011-05-15

Two weeks today we start our European adventure. First a few days in Singapore before heading off to London. After London a 16 day bus tour around the UK and Ireland. Next we plan to catch a train to Brussels to spend a week or so with realtives in Belgium and Holland. The last two weeks are not planned at this stage but thinking about flying to Rome and spending two weeks working our way back to London via Paris. 

Can't wait! Really looking forward to packing the bags and taking off.

We will endeavour to update our progress evey couple of days and include 1 or 2 relevant photos.

Take care and stay in touch .........................Peter and Joan


Day 1 - Bris - Singapore

2011-05-29

Had a relaxing day in Brisbane then took off on time at 2:10pm for Singapore. A really good 8 hour flight even if in the back of the aircraft. Milestone for the day was crossing the equator. A first for both Joan and I. We are slumming it at the Grand Hyatt for the next couple of days. If first impressions are anything to go by we are in for a great time. We are really excited about exploring this city tomorrow. Stay tuned for our update tomorrow.


Day 2 - Singapore

2011-05-30

Strange to be back in the tropics. Singapore is definitely tropical - memories of Darwin. Not sure what the attraction is here; it's really just a big city with lots of shops and not that cheap, especially alcohol. Haven't been able to find a bottle of wine under $70.00 (a glass of red is $21) and most beers are running out at about $12.50. All of that aside had a big day hopping on and off the red bus whilst crisscrossing the city. Had a really good lunch of dim sum which was reaaaally cheap. Another highlight was visiting Raffles Hotel. Joan enjoyed a Singapore Sling (see photos). We also had a really enjoyable sunset boat trip on the Singapore River. Interesting fact: Only 3 rivers in the world have the same name as the city they run through - Singapore, Moscow and Brisbane Rivers. Tomorrow we are planning a trip to the Zoo before heading off to Hong Kong in the afternoon.

Until next time, take care........Peter & Joan


Day 3 - Singapore Zoo

2011-05-31

Joan and I spent this morning at Singapore Zoo. Unfortunately we only had a few hours at the zoo as we needed to get to the airport for the next chapter of this holiday - Hong Kong then London. If visiting Singapore would definitely put the zoo on the itinerary. Could easily have spent the whole day there and taken 1 or 2 more photos. Only got about 70 during the morning.

I will remember Singapore for it's cleanness, public transport system, friendly people and the food. Have to admit really enjoyed the food.


Day 4 - London

2011-06-01

Big night last night. Singapore - Hong Kong - London. We were lucky at Hong Kong, British Airways had the sense to send a representative to the gate to meet us and escort us to the lounge and the departure gate otherwise we would still be wandering around the complex. Would never have worked out we had to catch a train from one terminal to another. BA flight was fantastic and now that Joan has had a taste of business class she has a better appreciation on my preference for this mode of travel.

Arrived at Heathrow at 5:15am this morning and spent today hopping off and on another fleet of red buses. Have had a pretty good day really considering how tired we are. Accommodation at the Crowne Plaza is excellent, a few hundred meters from Buckingham Palace. We caught the changing of the guard this morning, then travelled to the Tower of London, Tower Bridge, Big Ben and most of the other London icons.

Early to bed tonight so that we can do it all again tomorrow. More landmarks in the morning and perhaps Madam Tussaud's in the afternoon. We are now 9 hours behind you so these posts will not reach you till next day from here on in.

Take care and stay tuned.


Day 5 - Art and Culture

2011-06-02

Hi all,

Another big day. Having a hard time adjusting to the daylight hours and the extended twilight - daylight 4:30am, dark about 9:30pm.

The day started with a drama. Joan's Facebook account was locked and took a little while to unlock. Once sorted we hit the streets. First stop was Oxford Street where we picked up a mobile phone, then ventured onto the subway to get to Trafalgar Square. We survived but it was a little like playing Monopoly - Oxford Sqare, Piccadilly Circus, Charing Cross. At Trafalgar Square we visited the National Art Gallery - paintings going back to 1200.
Viewed de Vinci, Michealango, Picasso - unreal all this art and history. This afternoon we visited Westminister Abbey and more history. Graves going back to 1060 and an incredible garden.

Tonight was our first English pub experience - pints plus sausage and mash plus fish and chips. Life is good!!!

Tomorrow we start the bus trip - StratfordonAvon(Shakespeare), then Coventary, then York.

Hopefully more tales tomorrow. Until then take care. Peter and Joan


Day 6 - On the bus and more culture

2011-06-03

Well today we joined a bus tour. New experience being one of those tourists, name badge and all.  Surprisingly a lot of fun and only 28 on the bus.  The guide has been one quite spellbinding history lesson. This Englishman appears to be a wealth of information in how words and phrases came about.  We have just done a tour around Stratford, William Shakespeare's place. So very pretty as you can see from the photos. We are now heading for York where we will spend the night.  The itineriary has drinks and meet the rest of the people on the tour so we'll see how that goes. 

Today's itinerary was London - Stratford on Avon - Coventry - Nottingham - York


Day 7 - Scotland

2011-06-04

Hard to believe but the 1st week is over. Another full day. First thing this morning we walked around the walled city of York. Very interesting place and lots of good photos of narrow streets, old houses and cathedrals. We then moved onto Newcastle where we visited Hadren's wall. After lunch, the next milestone - we crossed the border into Scotland. We are currently on the bus (purchased a micro sim yesterday so now have mobile access to the internet) traveling to Edinburgh where we will be spending the next 2 days. Tonight we are heading out to see Edinburgh by night.

PS. This morning was blue skies and sunny. This afternoon, raining and really cold - our first taste of UK weather.

Until next update take care.

Sent from my iPadu


Day 8 - Edinburgh

2011-06-05

Sunday - Had a little sleep-in this morning as we had no traveling involved in the itinerary today. We are in Edinburgh and basically had a free day. We woke to 9 degrees and it climbed all the way to 12 degrees this afternoon. The main attraction in Edinburg is the castle and that's where we spent this morning. Really impressive and bursting with history, crown jewels and lots of tourists. For lunch we found a little pub with great food and dark beer. We don't seem to haven trouble in finding these little watering holes.

We walked around the streets for a while, found Bobby the Scottish terrier (there is a story here - a dog that sat on his dead master's grave for 14 years till he died himself at 16 years) then returned home for nanna naps as we have dinner and a Scottish show tonight.


Day 9 - ABC (Another bloody Castle/Church/Cathedral

2011-06-06

Hi all, had a fantastic night last night at the Songs of Edinburgh show. A traditional Scottish night with dancing, singing and bagpipes. Also had a serve of haggis washed down with a dram of single malt whiskey.

This morning we headed off to St Andrews. Did the churches and cathedrals then visited the St Andrews golf course (the home of golf). After lunch onto Perth, then to Pitlochry and Blair Castle. Blair Castle has 700 years of history all in one place. Then we arrived at our overnight motel In Aviemore and just down the road is a 4000 year old ring circle. Tomorrow we visit Loch Ness and then head to the Isle of Skye.

Suspect it is obvious but we are having great time and really enjoying the experience - the history, the places and the people. Bit of a concern though it is the middle of summer here and we can see snow on the mountain peaks no too far away. The other interesting observation is the practice of parking cars on either side of the street regardless of direction of traffic. It looks weird seeing cars nosed together (hood to hood or boot to boot). In Australia you can only park on the side you are traveling unless it's a one way street. Here you can duck across the road and park on the other side in the opposite direction to what you are traveling. Not sure if we will have internet access tomorrow, so may be a day or two before the next post. Thinking of you all Peter and Joan.


Day 10 - Skye and Lochs

2011-06-07

Another big day. Morning kicked off with a visit to the battle site of Culloden. Although interesting will be remembered by us as cold and windy. Next we were off to Loch Ness to search for Nessie. Check out the photo.

For lunch we visited the Kyle of Lochalsh. Yet another castle but on water and incredible photos, not to mention the  vegetable  soup. After lunch we ventured onto Skye and the spectacular scenery of the Trotternest Peninsula. Was spectacular and lots of good photos but really wet, cold, windy and miserable. Spent the evening in the local pub near a fire sampling local dark beers (and Australian wine for Joan).


Day 11 - More lochs and castles.

2011-06-08

Yeap another day of numerous lochs and castles. Had a number of short stops to take photos of Lochs and castles. Scotland is just endless postcard perfect scene after scene. A really beautiful country. Yes I will get to bore you with the many photos. After lunch we visited Glencoe, site of the massacre of the Campbell clan. Had a break from the bus after that with a boat ride on Loch Lomond. We spent last night in Glasgow - found another pub with good food and lots of different ales to sample. Tomorrow we are off to Liverpool.

Until then take care and we will update our progress from there.


Day 12 - Glasgow - Liverpool

2011-06-09

Another big day on the bus. We headed off from Glasgow this morning and headed south to Gretna Green (last town in Scotland with a history of marrying eloping English couples). The next couple of hours was spent going through the English Lake District. A lot different countryside to Scotland but equally as beautiful. For lunch we stopped at Grasmere (where William Wordswprth is buried). After lunch we traveled on down the M6 via Lancaster (Shaun, we didn't stop at Lancaster but passed the nuclear power station and university). Next we passed Preston before arriving in Liverpool (home of the Beatles). Yeap did the Beatle tour, visited The Cavern, got my photo taken with a young John Lennon, even bought the tee-shirt.

HAPPY BIRTHDAY FOR TOMORROW BILLY.


Day 13 - Liverpool to Dublin

2011-06-10

A fun day today. Left Liverpool and took a short run down to Chester, another walled city and had a walk around. After Chester we crossed the border into Wales. Here we ran down the North Wales coast to a town with the longest name in the world - Llanfairpwllgwyngyllgogerychwymdrobwillantysiliogogogoch. Yes it is spelt correctly but don't ask me how to pronounce it - refer attached photo.

From here we moved onto Holyhead for our 3 hour ferry ride to Dublin. Really enjoyed the ferry ride across. The Irish Sea was like a mill pond, flat as anything, so had the opportunity to enjoy 3 pints of guiness on the trip over. Arrived in Dublin and delivered to our Hotel; it is about 300 metres from O'Connell Street. Had a walk along O'Connell Street found a little pub for dinner. When we came out of the pub it was raining and it looked like it was setting in so we had about an 800m walk back to the hotel in the rain. Cannot understand why they do not have shop awnings here but we got soaked. Tomorrow is basically a free day for us to explore Dublin. Will update again tomorrow.


Day 14 - Dublin and surrounds

2011-06-11

What a great day today. This morning was spent doing a city tour of Dublin. Then we travelled to the south of Dublin to Glendalough, a monastic site dating back to the 7th Century, including the cross of St Kevin. After lunch back to town for some boring stuff - washing and reorganizing the suit cases. After this back to the streets of Dublin, including a walk up O'Connell Street.

Tonight we went to an Irish dinner and show and it was fantastic. Irish singing, river dance, an Irish comedian plus guiness and Irish coffee. Now time for bed, another early start tomorrow to Galway then Limerick.

Take care, may not have Internet access next few days but will post blog first opportunity.


Day 15 - Dublin - Limerick

2011-06-12

Our first really wet day. From Dublin we headed west to Galway Bay on the west coast.
It was really raining so really didn't see a lot. Had lunch in the city centre - another bowl of hot vegetable soup with soda bread. After lunch we carried onto Bunratty castle ( stronghold of the O'Brien clan). Attached to this castle is a folk park depicting Ireland life from 1850 - 1950. Lots of thatched cottages and old fashioned shops, farms gardens etc. From here a short trip to Limerick where we are staying tonight. Shortly heading off for an Irish ceilidh (party) evening. Not sure what to expect but will update tomorrow.


Day 16 - Limerick - Kenmare

2011-06-13

It was a long day today. From the motel we did a tour of Limerick and then headed south along the west coast around the ring of Kerry. Some incredible coastal scenes and a really nice sunny day. Stopped off at the town of Sneem then did something different. We headed for tea at Molly Gallivan's traditional farm before going to the Motel. Tea consisted of vegetable soup, Irish stew and apple pie. Afte tea we were taken out the back and given a demonstration on making Poitin (moonshine), locally known as "Molly's Mountain Dew". After the demo we were given a taste and a certificate in distilling Poitin. Some more photos then off to the motel, arriving at 9:30pm. Am now in the bar (9:45) enjoying a guiness and writing this blog - life is good, but hard work being on the road.

Off to Blarney Castle tomorrow, then Waterford for our last in Ireland. Until then Peter and Joan.


Day 17 Kenmare - Waterford

2011-06-14 to 2011-06-15

Another really enjoyable day and holiday milestone. This morning we crossed over the Cork and Kerry Mountains to Blarney Castle. Really enjoyed Blarney castle and surrounds. Yes lined up and kissed the Blarney Stone - got the photo to prove it! From Blarney down through Cork and onto Waterford. Here we visited the Crystal Factory and surprisingly found it very interesting and informative. After being deposited at our hotel - not an easy task in a forty foot bus in the narrow winding streets of these ancient Irish towns,  ( I have a much greater respect for these coach drivers after the last week or so) we headed out to a local pub, Saratoga Bill's at Dunmore East for another evening of guinness, singing and dancing. Had a great night and entirely different than an Australia pub. Really enjoy the concept of a couple of guys playing music and everyone joining in (once again lots of photos and blackmail material). We have been lucky with being grouped with a great group of people - all are time conscious and friendly - most enjoy a drink and having a go.

Anyway that's probably enough for today. We are crossing the Irish Sea at the moment on a car ferry and it's time to do some exploring (shopping) before State of Origin starts. Hope we can pick it up on the internet. GO THE BLUES. This afternoon we are on our way to Cardiff. Take care.


Day 18 - Ireland to Wales

2011-06-15

A rather quiet and uneventful day today other than NSW 18 beating QLD 8. "Life is good". The morning was taken up with the ferry ride from Rosslare Harbour (Ireland) to Pembroke Dock (Wales). On arriving in Wales our replacement bus driver had not arrived so we hang around the docks for an hour till he turned up. We then had a mad dash to Cardiff arriving at about 4:15pm leaving only an hour for our tour of Cardiff castle. It was not really long enough but certainly enjoyed what we saw. As it turned out we came back to the castle for our Welsh banquet. It was a very enjoyable night with training in the Welsh  language, Welsh singing and a serving of Welsh Rarebit (grilled cheese on toast).


Day 19 - Cardiff to Plymouth.

2011-06-16

What a magical day! After leaving Cardiff and crossing the Severn Bridge back into England we headed for Bath (the home town of our Tour Director- Dan) and a comprehensive tour of his old stomping ground. The tour ended up at the Roman Baths. The history and workings of the baths blew us away. A truly incredible experience and place. After the compulsory tour of the Cathedral we headed for Glastonbury to visit the tomb of King Arthur and Guinevere. A real magical place. Unfortunately we only had an hour here before heading off to Plymouth. This evening we went for a drive out on the moors. We stopped at the Dartmoor Inn for supper before heading home via Dartmoor Prison and one of Dan's ghost stories. Only 2 days left on this portion of our holiday. We arrive back in London Saturday afternoon.


Day 20 - St Michael's Mount & St Ives

2011-06-17

Second last day of the bus tour part of this holiday and the weather turned on us - our first real wet and miserable day. However we still did and saw a lot. We left our Plymouth motel mid morning and first stop was the Jamiaca Inn made famous by Daphne du Maurier and her book of the same name. After this we went to the most south western tip of the UK and could almost make out St Michaels Mount through the rain (see photo). It was then onto Penzance and then St Ives for lunch. An incredible place with unbelievable narrow streets, Cornish pasties and ice cream. Shame it was raining but gave us a feel as to why this little holiday town in Cornwell is so popular.


Day 21 - Plymouth - London

2011-06-18

What a day! Last day of our bus tour. Last night we had our farewell dinner. Another big meal and too many refreshments. Today was another wet day off and on. First stop after leaving Plymouth was Stonehedge. A strange experience that was both moving and mystical. What can you say about something that may have been constructed 3000BC. Unfortunately although it was sunny when we arrived 20 minutes later it was teaming down. A quick dash to the bus and we were off to Salisbury. A wander around the shops, market and Cathedral (yes ABC) and another downpour before heading for London. Arrived here about 5:00pm checked into the Crowne Plaza, a few drinks and an incredible Indian meal (a change from vegetable soup and Irish stew). Have enjoyed the last 16 days but good to have a change in food. It was difficult (and sad) saying good-bye to all the new found friends from the bus but tomorrow is the next phase of our holiday - train trip to Brussels. Stay tuned.


Day 22 - Half way. London - Brussels

2011-06-19

We are half way through our holiday and what a day. The next phase of the holiday started today with us heading off to St Pancras International Railway Station in London for a train journey to Brussels to meet up with Joan's family. The station was massive and the train trip very enjoyable and fast.(180 kph). Incredible that we could travel from London to Brussels in just on 2 hours. Fortunately we were met at Brussels station by Inge (Joan's cousin) and Marc (Chantel's partner) and we caught a local train to Mechelen (our home for the next few days). We then met Chantal ( our host, another cousin, for the next few days), and more of Joan's relatives. We were made very welcomed and enjoyed a lovely family meal, some local beer, a lot of talking, laughing and photos. We are really looking forward to the next few days, spending time with family and exploring Belgium.


Day 23 - Leuven

2011-06-20

Today we had a guided tour of Leuven by Inge (Joan's cousin). It was a really interesting and fun day. Inge could take up a role of full time tour guide. Leuven is only 22 klm away. Leuven is a university or student city and the old part of town has been preserved with no car access during the day. First we visited the old Town Hall, then an audio tour of St. Peter's cathedral - unbelievable! It was then off to Groot Begijnof (a preserved and restored historical quarter). Then it was off to lunch at a cafe near the university - more good food and some new beers. Had my first white beer - Hoogardeen. Also tried a Bollekekonynck and a Jupiler. All good but I preferred the Jupiler. We then walked through the old fish market, then to the Railway station before heading for home but not before Inge found us some chocolate. Once home we were treated to a traditional local treat - Belguim chicory (wittloaf). Tomorrow Chantal and Mark have arranged a guided tour of Mechlen.


Day 24 - Mechelen

2011-06-21

Another very full and enjoyable day. This morning we borrowed some bicycles and rode around the outskirts of Mechelen, along the canal (Kanal Leuven - as far as the Zoo). After lunch Chantal and Marc organized with a friend (a local tour guide) to show us around Mechelen and we got his special "Everything you always wanted to know about Mechelen but were afraid to ask" tour. It was a very comprehensive and enjoyable walk around. We saw a number of market places, all three Town Halls and the eight Church's of Mechelen. All of this broken up by timely visits to a brewery and local drinking spots. It was a very well thought out and planned tour with numerous hidden treasures and surprises.
In the evening we were treated to yet another scrumptious meal and Joan got to meet another cousin - Wendy. Tomorrow we are off to Holland.


Day 25 Mechelen - Berg En Terlijt

2011-06-22

Chantal and Uncle Jean drove us from Mechelen to Berg en Terlijt. It rained all the way and the first stop was Uncle Hoop's. After lunch the rain eased and we went for a walk through the woods, down passed the caves and through the village. It was sad to have say goodbye to Uncle Hoop and our Belguim relatives. It was then a quick dash to Auntie Maria's and Uncle Mann's (due to a slight misunderstanding about times) before being whisked away to a family party. A real surprise, joint birthday bar-b-que for Paul (Chantal's husband - another cousin) and welcome for Joan. A really fun night with lots of laughter, endless supply of Juliper and meeting and talking with new found relatives. It was good to see Monica again and for Joan to finally meet her other cousins, uncles and aunties. It was a late night but very enjoyable. We are not sure what's in store for tomorrow, but we do know it involves sightseeing, lunch and scooters!!


Day 26 Houthem- St Gerlach Church and Scooters

2011-06-23

Wow what another fantastic day. First up we spent some time with Aunt Gerda and Uncle Peit in Valkenburg and they took us to the family church which has a lot of Joan's family's history as well. Many of the families marriage's took place here. What a surprise - the sanctuary of St. Gerlach. A restored convent and church (established 1201 on the spot where St Gerlach (a hermit holy man) had died 1165. The real surprise being the painted walls and ceilings - frescoes - the only church in Holland with these. (painted by Johann Schopf - 1702).

After lunch a real treat. Joan's cousins hired scooters and we spent 4 hours riding around the country side and nearby villages. The journey took us to the point where the borders of Germany, Belguim and Holland all meet. Even riding home in the rain was fun, however it will take some time learning to ride on the right side of the road. We then went and collected Aunt Gerda and Uncle Piet and enjoyed another incredible meal with their family. Another perfect day all round.


Day 27 - Family, Caves and good food

2011-06-24

Had another special day today. This morning was a quiet morning spent with Aunt Maria, Uncle Mann and Monica talking and looking at photos. After lunch we had a tour of the garage and Sales Office  (Opal car dealership) and Uncle Mann was able to show us his vintage and racing car collection and racing memorabilia (rally champion).

Then a real treat - a tour of the local caves. Actually mines where the locals have been mining sandstone blocks for centuries for local buildings and houses. These caves have also been used for refuge during the times of war and the walls contain not only a running history but some incredible paintings and records of the people. Uncle Mann's brother lives and caretakes the caves and he provided the tour which included the chapel and a part where Joan's grandmother had written her name on the wall.

This evening we had another special night - had a meal with Auntie Maria, Uncle Mann, Monica, Frank, Maurice and Veronique at a restaurant in Eijsden called De Maastol. Really good company and superior food and service. Peter B. would have approved. Michelin quality food with chef selected wine accompanying each course (all 5 of them) - life is good.


Day 28 - Shopping, Coal Mines and Trains

2011-06-25

This morning we went over to Aunt Gerda's and Uncle Peets place before heading into Valkenburg to do some shopping and organize some travel requirements. Failed on the travel arrangements but completed all the shopping requirements. We all (refer photo) then headed to a simulated underground coal mine constructed in a rock mine to demonstrate and remember the now defunct Dutch coal mining industry.  It was fantastic- all the processes, roof support, stone dusting, conveyor systems are earlier versions of what is now used in our modern coal mines.

It was a bit of a sad day as we then had to say goodbye to Aunt Gerda, Uncle Peet, Josie, Chantal, John and their families, but we leave with very fond memories and a host of family memorabilia. Uncle Peet also gave us a special treat by playing his trumpet for us. We also got to meet Nicole, Josie's daughter.

It was also a frustrating evening as we could not succeed in booking our train tickets to Paris for tomorrow. We did however have an enjoyable family meal with Aunt Maria, Uncle Mann and family. Joan's cousin Kitty also called in. It was nice to have met her. Unfortunately we cancelled a night out with Jos and Josie to a party as we were exhausted and still had to do laundry and book tickets. We still don't know if we are going to get to Paris tomorrow.


Day 29 - Lazy day, Liege - Paris

2011-06-26

Uncle Mann to the rescue! This morning we packed up and Uncle Mann drove  us  to the Liege train station where we booked a ticket to Paris in 3 minutes. We wasted 3 hours yesterday trying to achieve the same thing on the Internet. More about the train trip shortly.
With 3 hours to spare Aunt Maria, Uncle Mann, Monica, Frank and Maxamillian showed us around Liege before having brunch at a French sidewalk cafe. This was a surreal moment realizing that this really is happening.
Anyway onto the fast train to Paris. Our tickets were stamped 'Overbooked' meaning we had guaranteed carriage but no seat allocation. We spent the trip to Brussels on Dickie seats in the corridor. When everyone got off in Brussels we got real seats for the remainder of the trip to Paris. Had our first nasty experience when getting onto the train. Whilst trying to load my bag into the luggage rack I felt something and luckily I was quick enough to catch a well dressed gentleman with his hand in my pocket and I don't think he was searching for the family jewels. I made a scene and he took off very quickly as did the person so kindly assisting me. Family jewels and money intact. Weird after all the trouble we had in obtaining our train tickets not one person requested to view them once we left the sales counter this morning - we could have avoided all the hassle by just getting on the train.Arrived in Paris at 4:00pm. After settling into the hotel we walked the 500m before taking our first photo (refer attached). After visiting the Eiffel Tower we found a sidewalk cafe and ordered our first French meal (no hassles). Off to the Louvre tomorrow.


Day 30 - The Louvre

2011-06-27

What an exhausting day. Early start this morning. Walked to The Louvre and stood in line for 20 minutes before getting in. Fortunately we were early enough to go straight to the Mona Lisa before the crowds were too ridiculous. Unfortunately the painting is behind glass and difficult to get a good photo. We also got fairly easy access to the Venus de Milo. After that it was bedlam, unbelievable number of people but so much to see. The Louvre is massive and although we stayed till 4:30pm and covered all floors and displays we could easily spend another day. Enjoyed another Paris meal complete with our first arrogant French waiter. Having said that we have enjoyed what we have seen so far and found Parisians really friendly so have booked an apartment to extend our stay till Friday. Yet to decide what happens after that.


Day 31 - Planning and a bucket of beer for lunch

2011-06-28

After 4 weeks on the road we decided to have a day off and plan the remainder of our holiday. Mission accomplished. We relocated to an apartment in Gare St-Lazare, as no accomodation in the city because of an Air Show and an UNESCO conference. We now feel we are experiencing the real Paris. Also discovered this afternoon while walking we are near Moulin Rouge so have booked a table for tomorrow evening. The only other point of interest today was I ordered a beer with lunch and received a bucket (500 ml) of beer. This really amused Joan. Itinerary going forward is flying to Rome on Friday, catching train to Venice on Sunday, sleeper train Venice - Paris next Tuesday night, back to London by fast train Wednesday and fly home Friday night.


Day 32 - Notre Dame and Moulin Rogue

2011-06-29

Another exciting day and the first time we have seen darkness and street lights - we have finally seen the lights of Paris. Spent the day on the L'Open Bus Tour visiting the major attractions in Paris, the main stop being the Latin Quarter and Notre Dame. Tonight was really special. Dinner and show at the Moulin Rogue? Show was spectacular and really glad we made the effort to do it. Unfortunately no cameras were allowed - real shame no holiday snaps to share. Down side we got to share a table with the sterotype American tourist - they should be banned from leaving their country!


Day 33 - Queues and more queues.

2011-06-30

We achieved a lot today and enjoyed more of Paris. First up we had to catch a bus to Gordon Nord (a railway station) to secure our Venice - London tickets. All came together but not before we had queued for about 30 minutes. Back on the bus and into Paris, change of bus and off to the Bastille, then lunch. After lunch, we made our way back to the Eiffel Tower. First we queued for 25 minutes to get tickets for the escalator , then 20 minutes queue to get on the escalator. This got us to level  2, then a 10 minute queue for the bathroom, then a 45 minute queue for the lift to the top. Yes 2 hours after arriving at the foot of the Eiffel Tower we stood in awe at the top looking out over Paris. Descending only took about 30 minutes  so it was time to queue for another 15 minutes again to get on a River Seine Cruise. This too was worth the wait as the hour long cruise was brilliant . 8:30pm by now so a quick dash back to the apartment to change before heading out for evening meal at a local cafe. Another day gone. Off to Rome tomorrow.


Day 34 - Paris to Rome

2011-07-01

A bit of a lazy day today. Up early, trip to bakers for fresh crossants, packed our bags and taxi to Orly Airport. Found EasyJet and paid execss baggage before securing seats to Rome. Good flight to Rome and interesting bus trip from airport into Rome. First impressions of Rome were not great - dirty and neglected. Then a real freak out when delivered to what we thought was our Motel. Right street but wrong address. All worked out in the end and we have a real classy motel behind an ancient facade, which would appear to be well located - within walking distance of both the colosseum and the Vatican. Tomorrow will tell.

Having difficulties loading photos at the moment but will try and resolve problem tomorrow.


Day 35 - Rome

2011-07-02

Today was our only full day in Rome and we decided to self tour, that is do a walking tour of the historic district of Rome. We headed off this morning and found our way to the Mounmento a Victorio Emanuele II and then headed off for the Colosseum. This was a surreal experience and difficult to express (translation = lots of photos). From here we headed for the Circus Massimo (think Ben Hur) only to be disappointed to find it has been let go and is now barron earth - shame!! Decided to have some lunch then we headed for the Vatican. It was crowded so we decided to take a guided tour. Glad we did as there was so much to see and the opulance blew us away. Did a tour of the museums and saw a million statutes, tapestries and maps, then onto the Sistine Chapel - indescribable. We then did a walk through St. Peter's Bassilica. Was amused to learn that Catholic priets and Nuns have to line up and pay to enter the Vatican just like every other punter - no perks there (all about the money). We then headed for home around 6pm had a shower, then found a pub to quench the thirst then off to a local cafe for more beer, pasta and pizza. Off to Venice tomorrow


Day 36 Rome to Mira

2011-07-03

A fairly relaxing day today. Early morning walk in Rome to find the Parthenon. Only about 8 minutes walk from our Hotel. After breakfast we headed for Roma Termini to catch the train to Venice. A good trip had us at our accommodation by 4:00pm - Villa Franceshi in Mira, on the outskirts of Venice. This place is the exact opposite of Rome. Country location with large estates, wide streets and plenty of space. The hotel is very opulant and upmarket. We spent the late afternoon planning our itinerary for the next few days then proceeded to dinner in the restaurant. What an experience - a 6 course meal of the best seafood, tartare, pasta and mousse I have ever experienced, not to mention the accompanying red wine - life is definitely good. Big day planned for tommorrow .


Day 37 - Venice

2011-07-04

What a day! Caught the bus into Venice, immediately got lost, went and bought a better map and eventually found our way to where we had agreed to meet our guide. Had the usual tour of the ABC - Another Beautiful Church and The Doges Palace. Once again, insane amounts of gold and priceless artworks. After the cultural bit we did the romantic condola ride. Spent the next hour touring the shops before heading off on a tour of the Grand Canal. By day's end had worked out the maze that they call Venice and had no trouble finding our way along the winding streets and canals to the bus terminal for the ride home. Now having happy hour and waiting for our pizza to turn up. Really enjoying and would recommend the Villa Franceschi in Mira. File note: Venice is expensive. In the past 24 hours have paid 190 Euro for a meal, 26 Euro for morning tea and 100 Euro for a Condola ride - but it was worth every Eurocent.


Day 38 - The Dolomites

2011-07-05

Our holidays are almost over but the surprises keep on coming. Yesterday was an exhausting day so for our last day in Italy we decided for a change of pace. We woke to rain this morning and made our way into town to meet our guide for our trip to the Dolomites - the alps of Northern Italy - location of the the 1956 Winter Olympics. By the time we got to our first stop, Cortina the rain had cleared and it was a beautiful day. Cortina was breath taking and surrounded by mountains.  Lots of road tunnels and sheer roadside drops. We then climbed to 2752m to Lagan Zuoi for some incredible mountain views including snow. Took a hundred photos but none did the place justice. All in all a magical day. A real climax to our Italian stay. On the photos front still having an issue loading them but hopefully tomorrow. 

Tonight we boarded a night train (sleeper) from Venice to Paris, only to find we are sharing the cabin with a Creek couple. We thought we had a double cabin but somehow ended up with a foursome. Will provide update tomorrow after we get to Paris.


Day 39 - Back to London

2011-07-06

We survived the train trip. It was better than first impressions. Not the best night's sleep we have ever had but sleep right through Switzerland and arrived on time in Paris. Spent the morning at Gord Nord in Paris. The high speed train left on time and we arrived back in London around 2:30pm. This evening we ventured into the back streets of London and found an Indian restaurant (Castle Tandoori). Tried it on spec and was duly rewarded with a magnificent meal. Also picked up an extra suitcase to pack all the additional odds and sods we have collected along the way. We have tomorrow and Friday left before we fly out on Friday night.

Still no luck with the photos but still working on it.


Day 40 - Stars and the Theatre

2011-07-07

We awoke to a wet morning but after a hearty English breakfast we proved we had mastered the London subway by finding our way to Baker Street (of Shelock Holmes fame and Madam Tussauds). Queued for 20 minutes to get into the Wax works but it was definitely worth it. We ran into Bruce Willis, Nicole Kidman, John Travolta, Nelson Medala and hundreds more. We also got to see the 4D Marvel Comic Super Heroes movie. Really good!!!!

Lunch was another Indian affair which was also excellent. For dinner we had a change and enjoyed some Japanese cuisine. This was followed by a real London Theatre experience. We secured seats and thoroughly enjoyed and rocked along to the musical "We Will Rock You". A futuraristic rock musical legend based on Queens music. It rocked and not only enjoyed by us but by all there as by all present resulting in 3 encores. Unsure what we will do tomorrow. A lot depends if we can secure a late checkout from the hotel as we have to pack our bags and head for the airport about 6:00pm to fly home.


Day 41 - Last day

2011-07-08

Today is the last day and we are now at Heathrow Airport awaiting to board our flight home. I'm pretty excited about the trip home - 1st flight on an A380. We took it easy this morning. Slept in, packed our bags and generally had a quiet day. To fill in some time this afternoon we queued up again and rode the London Eye. It was not the best of days to view the London skyline, light showers and overcast, but we crossed another thing off the to do list. Hard to believe that our holiday is over but we have really enjoyed it, saw and done a lot, and met some incredible people. All that remains now is the 23 hour flight back to Brisbane then the hop to Rocky Sunday morning. Ah one more thing I am looking forward too - sharing the 4,000 photos we took over the last 6 weeks with you all. Trust you have enjoyed the blog as much as I in creating it each day. Hope to backfill all the missing photos tonight.


Postscript

2011-07-10

We arrived home in Rockhampton about 11:00am Sunday . Pleased to report had a really good trip (means able to sleep) from London to Singapore (A380). A good break in Singapore of 4 hours and a quick 6.5 hour trip Singapore to Brisbane. Not as good a sleep, but some sleep (747). The only delayed flight we had all holiday was the final leg Brisbane to Rockhampton and the Rocky bag handlers didn't disappoint - about 40 minutes to get bags from plane to carousel.

In short a fantastic holiday, too much good food and drink, loads of very interesting and friendly people and an experience we will never forget. Not looking forward to getting up in the morning and going to work!!!!!!!!!


Off to Canada for 2 years.

2012-04-06

Anglo has offered me a 2 year secondment to Trend Mine @ Peace River Coal, in the foothills of the Rocky Mountains near Tumbler Ridge in British Columbia, Canada. We have accepted and Joan and I are making preparations to fly out 27th April. We are both excited about this assignment and look forward to living in a wilderness area and experiencing 4 distinct seasons in 1 year. Moving from the tropics to a region that can experience -40C will be interesting. I intend to maintain a blog during this time so that we can stay in touch and keep you up to date with our adventures. Take care and stay in touch. Visitors always welcome!


Settling into Tumbler Ridge

2012-04-27 to 2012-05-05

We have arrived and settled into Tumbler Ridge. Sorry a little slow kicking off this blog but this is the first chance I have had to do it. In short we finished packing the Bouldy house up Wednesday morning, then drove to Brisbane. Spent Thursday running around Brisbane tidying up loose ends. Friday we had an uneventful flight Bris - Syd - Vancouver - Fort St John. Bella (the dog) had a compulsory comfort stop in Vancouver and finally caught up with us and we headed for Tumbler Ridge Saturday afternoon. Anglo have put us into an apartment for now. The landscape looks very dead at present but being spring all the trees are budding and expect they will burst any day now and all including the grass will turn green. It is not that cold at present (0 - 10 deg C) and although we are still getting some snow at the mine Tumbler Ridge is fine with blue skies. I started work at Trend Mine last Monday and week was a complete blur. Some interesting challenges ahead over the coming weeks. Joan was busy organising our new life - bank accounts, post box, telephones etc. Yesterday we headed to Dawson Creek to do a big shopping and start the fun process of car hunting. Spent plenty of money but no car yet. More of the same next weekend. Anyway will endeavor to update this periodically and share our adventures with you. Stay safe and please do stay in touch.


Chetwynd BC

2012-05-06 to 2012-05-08

Sunday we drove 96 klms west of Tumbler Ridge to the little sleepy town of Chetwynd. Not much there except timber sculptures - lots of them. All carved with chain saws. They are incredible and displayed along the mainroad, the shopping centre and local parks. Another 1st:- was coffee and lunch at a Tim Hortons restaurant - something we will definitely do again. Stay happy and stay safe till next time.


Monkman Park and Kinuseo falls

2012-05-13

Another week in Canada and it is getting warmer. Although we still experienced snow on site at the mine this week it got to 19 deg C today. Yesterday we returned to Dawson Creek to pick up a hire car for Joan until we find a car of our own. Highlight of the day was spotting our first Moose in the wild, though only a young one. On the work front I now have my work truck - a Ford F250 pickup!!!

Today we visited Monkman National Park and visited Kinuseo Falls (60 metreshigh). A spectacular example of pristine wilderness. A magic day all round. Yesterday and today we also spoke with both Nicol and Kathy and all the grandkids - life is good; keep enjoying it!!!


Trip to Prince George (PG)

2012-05-14 to 2012-05-27

Haven't updated this for 2 weeks, so time to catch up. Work has been full on but we have also had a long week-end away in Prince George and a chance to see some more wildlife. Not a lot do and see in PG but had a leisurely drive both ways stopping at a frozen lake near Powder King, a number of incredible waterfalls and saw 3 black bears en route. PG has some large parks and reserves. Spent time in most of them and particularly enjoyed Cottonwood Island (see the squirrel). We also called into Huble homestead, a pioneer trading post on the Fraser River. As it was an open day all were dressed in period costume and we got to witness an old fashioned gopher shoot c/w muskets and other powder loaded guns.

On the Tumbler Ridge front the days are now perfect, blue skies (4 - 22 deg). We did have one morning of snow and Bella was not too impressed. We are settling in ok and think we have found a car for Joan - 2001 GMC Yukon Denali - a real V8 beast of a car! The only real disappointment here is the quality of Skype. Can talk with the kids but video quality is dodgy and unreliable.

Anyway that's all for now. Di, Denis and Gordon not long now!!!! Really looking forward to your blogs from your adventure. Be safe, thinking of you all


Wilderness walking

2012-05-27

Joan and I (and Bella) spent the afternoon hiking around the Flatbed Creek area of Tumbler Ridge this afternoon. Did not see any wildlife to talk of except a chipmunk (no photo to prove it) and plenty of bird life. Fortunately no bears, plenty of evidience of beavers but none to be seen. We did however find the dionosaur tracks at Cabin pool. It is incredible country and the views from the ridges of the snow covered Rocky Mountains is breath-taking. If we keep up this hiking caper we run the risk of getting fit or dead - guess time will tell.

 


No cable, new car, the Beaver, Grand Praire and Quality Falls

2012-06-01 to 2012-06-04

Another big week at work, coupled with a week of no cable TV. Mix up with Apartment Owners resulted in 7 nights of no TV. Big news was picking up our new car - GMC Yukon Denali 2001 6.0L V8 beast. First road trip was uneventful and great driving on both dirt and bitumen. We took a run to Grand Praire in Alberto to do some shopping and have a look around. Took the mandatory photo of "The Beaver" at Beaver Lodge. Good shopping (less taxes) in Alberto and found a stock of Vegemite.

Sunday back to nature and walking in the wilderness. Enjoyable afternoon at Quality Falls and surrounds. No wild life but plenty of fresh air and incredible views.


Chain Saw Campionships Chetwynd

2012-06-09

Travelled back to Chetwynd to view the Return of the Champions chainsaw carving competition. This has been an annual event since 2005. All sculptures created are kept and displayed around the town. There were 12 artists competing and we could not pick a winner before we left. Judging was to be announced the next day - Sunday. On the way home we called into Lake Gwillim.


Dawson Creek, Kirkatinaw River bridge & Hudson's Hope

2012-06-16 to 2012-06-24

Saturday (16th) saw us heading back to Dawson Creek - summer tyres for the car, haircut for Peter and new printer for Joan plus a little other shopping. Then off to Fort St John for lunch. Took a little detour at mile 17 of the Alaska Highway to visit the last remaining curved wooden bridge in BC. Shame it was raining but we will visit again on a better day. Spent the afternoon travelling along Hwy 29 to Hudson's Hope - a sleepy little town with lots of energy (hydroelectrical that is). Stayed in HH overnight. Had excellent chinese at the Best Western and an enjoyable evening at the Sportmans Bar. Sunday (17th) we visited both the WAC Bennett dam and the Peace River Canyon dam. The later having an excellent Visitor centre and dinosaur exibition. We will revisit this area again.This weekend we spent in Tumbler Ridge. Attended a Duck's Unlimited dinner and auction. A great steak and lobster meal followed by an auction. We spent some money and walked away with a brass horse sculpture, ceramic duck and 2 weekend passes to Grizzfest (a local music festival). Next wekend is a long weekend and planning to visit Edmonton, Alberta. TAKE CARE.


Edmonton weekend

2012-06-30 to 2012-07-02

For the July long weekend we headed to Edmonton in Alberta. An 8 hour drive from Tumbler Ridge via Grand Praire. An easy drive once we put the Rockies behind us and dead flat divided road all the way from GP. An uneventful drive, stopping at Rochfort Bridge, an incredible wooden railway bridge. Edmonton was larger than we anticipated and we enjoyed some excellent restaurants. It rained on Sunday but it did not spoil the day. We visited Telus World of Science in the morning. After lunch we visited the West Edmonton Mall - once the largest mall in the world complete with theatres, wave pool, bungee jump, ice rink, aquarium and indoor theme park plus endless shops and eateries. In the evening we enjoyed a live show (Sylvia) at the Mayfield Dinner theatre.

Sunday was also Canada Day and after the show and once it got dark (11:00pm) we enjoyed a full moon and a massive fireworks display on the North Saskatchewan River. We will definitely schedule another visit to Edmonton as there is much more to see and do in this area.


Bergeron Falls, Tumbler Ridge

2012-07-08

We choose the warmest day this year to date (29 deg C) to do a 4 hour, 10 klm round trek, through mountainous bear country to visit Bergeron falls. Up through aspen and pine forest to view one of the highest waterfalls in northern BC - 100m fall over a narrow ledge into an enormous valley below. We were well equipped with bear bells, bear mace, energy bars and water.

We survived the hike but think we wore Bella out and did not see any bears. The ultimate reward was beer and pizza for supper, but suspect it will be an early night as we are both tired and sore.

The other big news this weekend is we purchased a bar-b-que. Well almost; the Canadian equivalent  - a grill heated with propane.


Peace River Country

2012-07-20 to 2012-07-22

This weekend we ventured back over the border into Alberta. We overnighted in Dawson Creek Friday and headed out Saturday morning. Had a brief stop in Rycroft, the railway siding where the wind turbine blades and other components are transferred to trucks for the last leg of their long journey to the Tumbler Ridge wind farm.

It was then onto historic Dunvegan, the site of one of the earliest fur trading posts and missionary centers (circa 1805). It is located on the banks of the Peace River where the Dunne-za Indians camped and hunted . It is now the site of the longest (550m) and only suspension bridge in Alberta. After a late lunch in Fairview we made it into Peace River township late afternoon the point where the three Rivers join - the Smoky, the Peace and the Hart. It's also the home of 12 Foot Davis, the legendary fur trader. We also visited the Peace River Museum, Mckenzie Centre, Judah hill and Sagitawa lookout.

Sunday saw us heading home through Nampa and stops at Falher (the honey capital of Canada) and Girouxville. Back to Dawson for a round of shopping and then home to TR.

Take care and stay safe and happy.......................Peter & Joan


Boat trip to Kinuseo Falls

2012-07-28

Yesterday Joan and I ventured to Kinuseo Falls 40 miles SE of Tumbler Ridge up the (mighty) Murray River via a jet boat. Took just on an hour to get there through some really rugged but spectacularly beautiful mountainous country. Lots of bird life but unfortunately no wildlife.

It was a glorious summer's day and there were a number of boats (motorized and non-motorized) on the river but we were fortune to have the falls all to ourselves. Photos definitely do not do the place justice so I tried to capture the power, the noise and the scenery on video (see attached video) but even that failed.

We had a bar-b-que lunch and even this didn't entice the grizzly bears out so we headed for home. A really good day all round in a pristine national park that really was part of the last frontier. The first white explorer only discovering these falls just under 100 years ago. We are keen to get back to these falls in winter (via ski-doo) to see the spectacle of this powerful water fall frozen in time. Yes each year these falls and the river turn to ice. Can’t wait to share those photos, though not sure I will be able to entice Joan out in -45deg conditions on a ski-doo.

Take care, stay safe and happy………………Peter and Joan


BC week-end - Tumbler Ridge

2012-08-04 to 2012-08-06

Pleased to report we have just enjoyed another long week-end in beautiful British Columbia. Today is BC day and Tumbler Ridge celebrates the long week-end with a music festival – Grizfest (been and got the Tee-shirt). The weekend kicked off with a street parade Saturday morning followed by 2 days of music –Canadian bands both new and old, including newcomer Carley Rae Jepsen (Call me Maybe) performed, as did old timers The Stampeders, Harlequin and Helix. Acid rocker Lee Aaron was also on the bill, but rather tame these days. The show finished with My Darkest Days, but best (in our opinion) was a band originating from Grand Prairie – Emerson Drive. Really worth checking out some of their tracks on iTunes.

Highlight of the weekend for me was getting high Saturday afternoon – that is, I took time out to go on a helicopter flight around Tumbler Ridge to view some of the wilderness areas and waterfalls. It was incredible!!! Now understand the attraction of helicopters. Flying high and suddenly dropping down into valleys and skimming across tree tops, hovering above waterfalls etc. Travelling home we flew below the tree line along the Murray River. What a ride, metres above the rapids and numerous sharp turns as the river meanders upstream towards Tumbler Ridge.

Other highlights this week have included a run (drive) up to Babcock Mountain, near Trend Mine (where I work) for Joan to view the mine and the Boulder Gardens. It was here we spotted our 1st Marmot (see photo). And today we hiked into Tepee falls, about 35klms north of TR. We drove 30klms and walked the last 5klm. Once again a spectacular waterfall and escarpment overlooking the might Murray River. Plenty of bear skat but no wildlife.

Next week off to the Dawson Creek rodeo and covered wagon racing. Until then stay safe and happy.....Peter and Joan


The Greatest Show in the Peace

2012-08-11 to 2012-08-12

This weekend Joan and I got to spend 2 days at the 5 day Dawson Creek Exhibition & Stampede. It certainly lived up to its by-line – “The Greatest Show in the Peace”. It is a combination fair, agricultural show, pro-rodeo, horse racing and world professional Chuckwagon Racing. Something for everyone.

Both afternoons we were entertained with the normal rodeo events – bareback riding, steer wrestling, saddle bronc, team roping, barrel racing and bull riding. This was followed by TB horse racing. The real treat here was the flying start. In the evening, this was followed with the “1/2 mile of hell” – our first experience of Chuckwagon racing. This is an incredible team event of horses, a driver and outriders. The amazing thing for us was the fact that the team was made up entirely of thoroughbreds. The amazing thing for the spectators is the mayhem, danger, excitement and spectacle of 4 teams of 4 horses racing a ½ mile around the track being chased by the outriders to determine the winner. Each race begins with the outriders "breaking camp", by tossing a keg into the back of their wagon before mounting their horses and following the wagons as they complete a tight figure eight around two barrels before somehow merging together to circle the race track. The first wagon to cross the finish line typically wins, although various time penalties are handed out for infractions such as a barrel being knocked over, wagon interference or an outrider crossing the finish line too far behind his wagon driver. Saturday night had one spectacular crash, fortunately the driver escaped unharmed as did the horses. Unfortunately competitors and animals are not always this lucky, prompting animal welfare groups to call for the sport to be banned.

The other 2 bizarre things we observed this week end were:
1) A kids sport called Wild Horse Racing. Deal was a pony was placed in a shute with a lead rope strung through the gate. Three kids hung onto the rope and when the ‘wild’ pony was released the kids had to control the horse and one of them mount it and ride it. Points were awarded for time taken to mount and length of the eventual ride. Absolute bedlam, rearing kicking ponies and kids being flung everywhere. What the....??
2) The mobile stables (and the trucks) used to house the teams of horses. Refer photos. Certainly we haven’t seen anything on this scale in Australia. It was incredible.

Overall one of the best weekends we have had in Canada.


The hills are alive .....

2012-08-19

We decided to spend a weekend at home, but did find time to do some exploring in our own backyard. This place never ceases to amaze us. 32klm from our back door is Mt Hermann. The attraction here is you can drive to the top. The climb is all dirt road through a mining lease, with the last 4klm being 4WD to take you above the tree line and make it to the summit, but it is definitely fun and worth the effort. Incredible rocky outcrops and alpine panoramic views of the Rockies. It is uncanny to be standing on the top of the world in 30deg heat and be looking at ice capped mountains. Unfortunately a little hazy today so not brilliant photos but a real experience. Mother nature can be really brutal here, but another side of her is very evident on the mountain top in summer with the all the wildflowers on display.

Descending from the mountain we drove another 30klm up the Murray River Forest Service Road to the 33klm mark to a spot known as the Greg Duke area. Here we walked 500m through the forest to Irene Lake. Once again another picturesque, pristine lake, which we had entirely to ourselves. There was plenty of evidence of bears, moose and deer but none to be seen today. It was a perfect spot to have the picnic lunch Joan had prepared and packed. It was warm enough after lunch to venture into the water but not warm enough to take the big plunge.

On the trip home we detoured to Barbour Falls. A short hike through the forests and along very steep drop-offs and vertical cliffs to a viewpoint just past these very impressive falls. From the car park to home was only 20 minutes and we still time for an afternoon nap.

Next weekend we are planning a trip down south, past Prince George to McBride, hopefully to witness the salmon spawning (and perhaps the bears feasting). Until then take care and stay happy............Peter & Joan.


Robson Valley and Rocky Mountain high

2012-08-24

This weekend we planned a longer than usual roadtrip. Plan was to drive 610klm to McBride to watch the spawning Chinook salmon jumping up the local waterfalls during their annual pilgrim to the spawning grounds. We headed off Thursday evening after work. It did not start well – stopped in Chetwynd for fuel and food and locked our keys in the car. 30 minutes later and $90 poorer we were on our way. We overnighted in McKenzie before heading further south to the Robson Valley, arriving in Mcbride about midday. After lunch and compulsory visit to the Information Centre we were off. First stop was a 4WD to McBride Peak (2438m) to get our bearings. Then off to Beaver Falls to see the salmon. We did see one who had a few attempts but failed to make it up the falls. Spent some time exploring the Beaver Falls area and decided to retreat to the Giggling Grizzly for tea and a strategy meeting. Perhaps Saturday would be more fruitful on the salmon jumping front. Saturday we spent the morning exploring the Beaver Falls area again, no luck so moved onto Tete Jaune Cache, no luck, further downstream to Rearguard Falls. Incredible falls and rapids but no salmon. At this point we gave the fish spotting away and headed for Mt Robson, the highest peak in the Canadian Rockies (3954m). A good lunch and a fantastic afternoon wandering around the Mt Robson Provincial Park and the numerous rivers and streams in the area. The waters in this area are a cloudy blue colour. This phenomenon is caused by the high percentage of rock flour in the water, caused by the continuous grinding of the rocks and glacial activity in the area. We headed back to McBride via the back roads (read dirt) to find suitable rapids and falls to observe jumping salmon. Nice drive no salmon. Sunday, time to drive home and in Spooner traditional fashion made a round trip of it by heading over the border into Alberta and headed for Jasper, then Grande Cache. Once again incredible rocky, rugged mountain ranges and massive waterways and lakes. This exercise was a sortie to check out future weekends away. Lots of potential in both these locations. A quick dash to Grande Prairie to do some shopping then back over the border into BC and a shortcut home to Tumbler Ridge via the Hourglass (read dirt road again). Round trip of 1400klms. Looks like we may have got ourselves a really good car with this GMC Yukon Denali. It handled the 4WD, the mountains, the dirt roads and the highways without missing a beat. Just the snow, ice, sleet and mud to go. Until next week....... Peter and Joan


Lost Haven Cabin

2012-09-01 to 2012-09-03

This was a long week end in BC - Labour Day; and as we had been invited to a birthday party Saturday night we decided to stay in Tumbler Ridge for the week-end and complete our tax and other domestic duties. Sunday we took time out to explore the Wolverine trails. These trails were built by the Wolverine Nordic and Mountain Society to serve as cross country ski and hiking trails close to town, beginning and ending at the TR Golf course. We are looking for activities to do in winter and took this opportunity to see how strenuous this trail would be for beginner cross country skiers - jury is still out but think we might try it. Without snow it was an easy hike (about 7klm) through local forest ending at Lost Haven cabin that sits on the edge of an escarpment above the Murray river looking directly onto Mt Bergeron and its prominent cliffs. The cabin was built in 1996 and is used as a warming hut during winter. It has a supply of timber and a cast iron stove and other basic requirements for cross country skiers.

The other highlight this weekend was a 3-day Big Bang Theory marathon on the Comedy Channel. Maybe something a little more interesting/exciting next week!   Peter & Joan


Wind Power and incredible exposed traverse

2012-09-08 to 2012-09-09

Sunday night again and another week has flown by. Joan had a hen’s night Saturday so we stayed in Tumbler Ridge this weekend. The weather was good but fall is almost upon us. It is unbelievable how quick the leaves on the trees change colour and the landscape transforms.

Saturday we slipped into Dawson Creek to do some shopping and start preparations for our winter requirements. At lunch time we took time out to visit the Bear Mountain Wind Park that overlooks Dawson Creek. There are 34 x 78metre tall turbines. Each of these 3 million watt turbines produces enough energy to power 1000 houses.

Sunday had a few dramas at the mine and had to arrange pump parts to be hot-shotted in from Saskatchewan. We did get a short hike in this afternoon to the Murray Canyon Overlook. The trailhead is about 30klms from town. It proved to be a really interesting hike. The first 1.5klm is through the forest then it emerges into the open onto an exposed traverse along the top of a large grassy slope about 300 metres above the Murray River, providing brilliant views of the river, the canyon, the foothills and mountains in the distance. The trail continues along this traverse for 1.25klms providing ever-changing views of the canyon. This view has changed immensely over the last 6 months with approx 60 wind turbines being erected on the surrounding ridges by Capital Power. Not sure about these metal monstrosities. It will be green energy but certainly changes the landscape and visible for miles (kilometres). Nevertheless the views were incredible and with the leaves changing colour probably the best time of year to enjoy this view.

Once again no wildlife. In fact only wildlife we spotted this weekend was cow moose on the way to Dawson.


Lousy week but a great weekend.

2012-09-15 to 2012-09-16

Happy to put last week behind me! Multiple staff absent from work, run-in with the union, coal plant down for 7 days due to parts, I had to work nightshift Tuesday and my Inventory person resigned and finished up on Friday. Sad to see Jackie go, but wish her all the best in her new endeavours.

Had nothing really planned for this weekend but decided to go to Fort St John for a look around and if nothing else some R&R; achieved both but didn’t get to the movies as hoped. Saturday morning we ventured up the Alaska Highway to Mile 52 – Charlie Lake. At the boat ramp there is a monument to 12 soldiers that drowned crossing the lake in 1942. In the afternoon we went shopping to get essential supplies and additional clothing for the pending winter season – kind of exciting but daunting at the same time.

Today we explored the Cecil Lake area and the Beatton River. Once again incredible valleys, mountains and fall colours. On the run home we stopped at Taylor - mile 36 on the Alaska Hwy. Although a small town it has a gas power station, pulp mill and other industry. Its other claim to fame is it has become home to the annual World's Invitational Class 'A' Gold Panning Championships. During July they also hosted a sand sculpturing competition. The art pieces are starting to weather and succumb to local youth interference but are still exciting to view. This year, within 100klm of Taylor I have been fortune enough to view Ice Sculpturing, Chainsaw sculpturing and today the results of Sand Sculpturing. Incredible country and some very talented people. Might have something to do with the long winters.

Until next week, stay happy and safe................Peter & Joan


Fall and Quality Canyon

2012-09-23

Another big week at work, and enjoyable week-end in Tumbler Ridge. The weather has been unbelievable and according to the locals very unseasonable. We have had a week of high 20’s and it looks like this will continue for perhaps another week. Saturday was domestic duties and a work catch-up day. Saturday night was a bar-b-que with friends and a very late night poker tournament. The food and company was great, no need to talk about the poker.
Today we went for a hike to Quality Canyon. This is the last of the canyons on our Tumbler Ridge list, now having seen Murray Canyon, Quantity Canyon, Quantum Canyon, Quillion Canyon and now Quality Canyon. Once again picture perfect colours and really impressive views. It was good walk but no wild life other than the ever present squirrels. The walk was a little testing in places but my age most hikes are testing. Yesterday was the first day of ‘Fall’ and the change in the trees and colours around town and the surrounding areas is very obvious.
Until next week take care and stay safe...................Peter and Joan


No more "Dew Drop Inn"

2012-09-30

Not much to report this week. Another heavy week at work. The mornings are definitely getting cooler and the days shorter. Can also smell a lot more smoke in the air from all the wood fireplaces being used to warm homes.

Went to Dawson Creek on Saturday morning as we often do and it was sad to see the remains of the historic and very colourful Alaska Hotel and the "Dew Drop Inn" which burnt down week before last. Not only did they  not save this iconic hotel but also depleted the towns water supply in the rescue attempt, Although the Peace has had good rain this year Dawson has missed out and is now in a declared drought.

Should have more interesting news next week as we have planned a 3-day trip to Vancouver next weekend. Until next time take care and stay happy............Peter & Joan


North Vancouver - Thanksgiving weekend

2012-10-06

We decided to spend this weekend in Vancouver and explore the surrounds before the rainy season begins. Flew down from Fort St John last night (our first  flight in 5 months - man I miss flying). Today was a magic day. Picture perfect weather for exploring North Vancouver. Vancouver is very flat but 10 minutes north of the CBD is the Capilano River and the Rockies.

Day started out with a tour of the Salmon ladder at the Salmon Hatchery, followed by a visit to Capilano River Gorge, which includes the cliff walk, suspension bridge and a treetop walk. It was then onto Grouse Mountain for an incredible Lumberjack show - traditional timber cutting skills and demonstration including cutting, sawing, axe throwing and log rolling. Then the highlight of the day - Coola and Grinder, the Grouse Mountain Grizzles.

The plan was to go out this evening and catch a show but we decided to stay in and ordered apartment delivered Thai - what a treat and great food. More exploring tomorrow.


Stanley Park & Granville Island

2012-10-08 to 2012-10-09

Sunday was a fairly relaxing day. We secured tickets on the Hop On Hop Off bus. First stop was Stanley Park. We visited the Rose Garden, walked around the shoreline, passed the 9:00 pm cannon, and ended up at the Totem Poles. The gardens were array with fall colors and a real treat for us Queenslanders not accustomed to such displays. Back on the bus around to English Bay, and the laughing yoga pose statues. Off the bus and onto the False Creek ferry (maximum number of passengers = 12) to Granville Island for the Sunday market. Another treat for the senses at this food and flower market along with other stalls and novelty outlets. Lunch was at the Granville Island Brewery and the mandatory beer tasting. After lunch back on the bus and back to town via China Town. We alighted in Gas Town, visited the steam clock and then walked around Canada Place before heading back to the apartment for nanna naps. An excellent day was finished off with a Taste of India, an authentic Award winning Indian restaurant on Robson Street.

This morning we walked around Coal Harbour and enjoyed the last of what will likely be the warm weather for this year. Headed to the Airport at lunchtime for the flight back to Fort St John and reality.

Take care and stay happy till next time.

P.S. was glad to hear that Holden won the Bathurst!!!!


Weekend of Firsts.

2012-10-14

This was a fairly quiet weekend but one of firsts. Saturday morning I woke before dawn and took Bella (the dog) for her morning constitution. Whilst out walking I experienced my first Northern Lights experience (Aurora Borelis). Had no camera and it was not a colorful show, but it was definitely spectacular and a little surreal and mystical. The morning sky was like a ceiling with an ever moving white-light show sweeping in waves across the sky. Hope I get the chance to see this again, hopefully with some color and with camera at the ready. The attached poster is taken off the internet.

Later Saturday we travelled to Grande Prairie to do the first of our winter shopping – warm clothes and various supplies to stockpile incase of heavy snowfall or loss of power for an extended period. This was my next first – introduction to Costco. Not sure if Costco has made it to Australia yet but it’s a membership warehouse bringing members competitive (read cheap) prices on brand name merchandise from white goods, hardware, clothing, food and electronics. Ah almost forgot and also liquor! Something like ‘Jack the Slasher’ but up-market. Anyway GP has a massive Costco warehouse and Joan and I gave the plastic a real workout yesterday. 

Only excitement on the way home was coming across some deer, on the Hourglass Rd. Sunday was another domestic day doing household chores and catching up on work.
As always trust you are all well and happy and enjoying the warmth. Never thought we would be pleased to see +2 deg C and think it was warm!!!!


Top of -4deg C

2012-10-21

Not a lot to report on this week. It has been snowing off and on for a week now. Reasonable falls at work and sufficient in town to make it exciting for Australian visitors. This week end we had a high temperature of -4. It dropped to -9 overnight. This coming week the forecast is -5 to -14deg C. With this in mind we have dropped the car off this evening to be winterized – winter tires, and anti-freeze in for the water and lubricants. The car has a sump heater so we will soon need to plug that in so that the car will start when needed. Joan has had her first drive in snow and on icy roads. All part of the Canadian experience.

Because of the cold change we stayed home this weekend. I worked a little and Joan worked out on the Wii. We also started making Christmas plans and Mexico is looking good – 7 nights, airfares, accommodation, all meals and all alcohol – all inclusive deals for about $2,300 each – sounds like a bargain and a warm climate and beaches.

It is approaching Halloween (October 31st) and a lot houses are starting to decorate and the shops are filled with Halloween consumables and paraphernalia. Don’t really understand it all but Wikipedia advises “typical festive Halloween activities include trick-or-treating (also known as “guising”), attending costume parties, carving pumpkins into jack-o-lanterns, lighting bonfires, apple bobbing, visiting haunted attractions, playing pranks, telling scary stories, and watching horror films". We will probably stay at home but we have bought a truckload of treats, just in case. The backup plan for these is they will become winter emergency supplies if the power goes out.

Other big news this week is we are moving out of the apartment next weekend into a house. This will be great for Bella, meaning she will have a backyard. We will also have a bit more space, the bad news is it now means that I will have to shovel snow.

Until next week take care, Miss you all..................Peter and Joan


Moving House

2012-10-28

End of another big weekend. Maximum temperature of -10 deg C with lows of -16 degrees and it's still snowing. And we chose this weekend to move from the apartment we have been living in, to a house on the top bench. Probably haven't mentioned this before but Tumbler Ridge is built on 3 benches. The upper and lower benches are residential, whilst the middle bench is a mixture of residential, commercial, educational and recreational. Anyway we have now moved from the bottom bench to the top bench. The lesson learnt however is not to move when it is snowing or if there is ice hanging from your car. Fortunately we did not have a lot to move and we have now relocated. The house will be a pleasant change, better for the dog, a lot more space and 3 spare rooms for guests when you/they visit. The downside is I am now responsible for snow shoveling and it looks like the snow is here to stay.

Until next week stay safe and happy........Peter.


Living in a Winter Wonderland

2012-11-04

This weekend we started to experience the fun and not so fun aspects of snow (and ice). Not only has the appearance of Tumbler Ridge changed but the whole rhythm of the town. Kids are scrambling around every incline in town to toboggan or charge down hill on modern or homemade sleds. In both Tumbler Ridge and Dawson Creek areas have been set up for tobogganing. We will definitely try it and are also planning to learn how to ski.

Going anywhere or driving is definitely slower and takes more planning, just getting dressed is a major exercise and then taking the layers off when getting somewhere or home. Walking is now hazardous as the ice can be slippery and requires the wearing of ice cleats. We also experienced first hand the adrenalin rush that follows coming across black ice when traveling at 80klm/hr. Luckily we got out of this one unscathed but only after fish tailing and sliding sideways along the highway for about 300m narrowly avoiding the 5 metre drop off on each side. Joan sucked all the air out of the vehicle and I needed a change of underwear. Once again really pleased with the car. Also a timely reminder to drive to the prevailing conditions.

Bella now refuses to venture outside so we are experimenting with a product called Potty Patch - a tray with synthetic grass for her to use. Stay tuned to see how this works out.

Anyway enjoy your warm days. We are bracing for more snow, windy days and lows around -18 deg C. Good news is next weekend is a long weekend.

Take care, stay safe and happy......Peter and Joan.


Remembrance Day Long Week End

2012-11-10 to 2012-11-13

Another weekend snowbound in Tumbler Ridge – not really but we did spend the weekend at home with a few outdoors ventures to avoid the risk of cabin fever.

Saturday we spent some time organising the PRC clothing issue – hi-viz shirts and coveralls. Had an enjoyable lunch at the golf club and watched the kids snowboarding and tobogganing on the fairway.

Sunday was Remembrance Day and a quiet day all round. Caught up on a bit of work and watched movies. Highlight of the day was a long Skype call with Denis, Di and Gordon. It was really good to catch up and just chat.

Monday was the Public Holiday and another lazy day around the house. Did get out this afternoon for a walk along the Flatbed Creek. The water is almost frozen and there is a fair covering of snow. When it is not snowing and the sky is blue and it is really magic but still cold.

Exciting week coming up at work and weather permitting and roads open we will be going to an Alice Copper concert in Dawson Creek on Tuesday night. Last saw Alice on his Nightmare Tour 26th March 1977 – 35 years ago, trust he remembers me – there were only 44,000 of us at the RAS Showground in Sydney. This is his “Raise the Dead” tour. Trusting the Godfather of Rock puts on a good show!

Postscript: 35 years on and Alice may be the godfather of Rock but he is the ultimate showman. He "raised the dead" on Tuesday night - Jim Morrison, John Lennon, Jimi Hendrix and Keith Moon - and we along with Dawson Creek rocked!


Things I have learnt about winter (so far)

2012-11-17 to 2012-12-09

Winter here in the north has really impacted our leisure time and we have not done a lot in the past few weeks. Have had a few trips to Dawson and to Chetwynd to do some shopping, been watching the kids sledding and enjoying the snow. We have purchased snow shoes and done a little walking and been getting into the Christmas spirit with friends and work colleagues. In short not much to report. We are still enjoying the experience and it has given me time to ponder the things we have learnt over the last few weeks.

Things I have learnt about winter in the North:
* speed and icy roads don't mix. Not fun doing donuts down the road at 80klm/hr and no guard rails.
* cold really hurts. Less than -25 and unexposed body parts feel pain
* our dog will not go outside after -10. Cannot handle the cold and she starts limping because the frozen ground hurts her paws.
* my camera will not function below -20. It just shuts down.
* an iPhone will not function using gloves but does respond to your tongue.
* whilst on tongues, steel is very cold to touch so don't lick steel things.
* the extent smokers will go too, to get their nicotine hit, even in sub -30
* cars are fitted with pan heaters and under -20 need to be plugged in to mains power to prevent engine block and oil freezing.
* water and sewage pipes have heat traces on them so that they do not freeze.
* if leaving your house for more than a day you need to leave a tap dripping so that the pipes will not freeze. Frozen pipes are a big deal because most houses have basements and living quarters below ground level so leaking pipes fill them up like swimming pools.
* steam in the bathroom actually forms ice blocks on the inside of the window

The scary thing is its only early days for us and it concerns me what other things us dumb Aussies need to know to survive this winter wonderland.


It's all about the food (and the wine)

2012-12-24 to 2012-12-25

We have been in Mexico (Cancun) for 2 days now. Temperature here is the in high +20's and we are loving it. The resort, Secrets the Vine is everything we hoped it would be. Really impressed with the all inclusive deal, particularly the food and wine. There are 14 bars and 8 restaurants. We were expecting average buffet meals but there are 5 Al la carte restaurants and the buffets are far from ordinary. It really is all about the food and the accompanying wine. The amenities are great - numerous pools and incredible aqua blue Caribbean ocean. Strange being able eat whatever you want and drink anything you want without paying. (Well we did pay for it but that was weeks ago). This also applies to the bottomless bar fridge that magically keeps being replenished.

Hope you all had a good Christmas. We had a visit from Santa Claus. Just a quiet day lounging around the pool and then a circus at night as the inhouse entertainment. Didn't real feel like Christmas without the kids and grandkids but we got to speak to them all throughout the day. It was great though to feel the warmth of the sun and go swimming.

Tomorrow we are off to Cichen Itza - Mayan temple (one of the new) 7 wonders of the world. Will update and provide some photos then.

Take care ........Peter & Joan


Piste - Mayan history - Chich'en Itza

2012-12-26

Yesterday we took a bus trip, about 2.5 hours west of Cancun to the small town of Piste. The first stop was to the Cenote Ikil - a natural freshwater sinkhole formed in the limestone. Didn't go swimming but got some good photos and purchased some gold and silver from the local Mayan craftsmen. It was then next door to Chich'en Itza - the most famous of the great Mayan cities and recently voted one of the 7 wonders of the world. The Mayan name "Chich'en Itza" means "at the mouth of the well of the Itza" being the sacred Cenote. Although it was Boxing Day the sacred site was really crowded, unbelievable number of tourists. The main attraction being the 1200 year Old Temple of Kukulkan. The temple stands 30m high and is dedicated to the feathered serpent god Quetzalcoatl. On the Spring and Autumn equinox, at the rising and setting of the sun, the corner of the pyramid casts a shadow in the shape of a snake, representing the god Quetzalcoatl. As the sun moves, the serpent slowly descends into the earth. The other major structure is the Ball Court (166m x 68m). Both walls of the Ball Court are carved with scenes showing teams of ball players. One panel shows a headless player kneeling with blood shooting from his neck, while another player holds the head.

Tried to buy a Mayan calendar but they ran out 21st December 2012!!!!!

Lunched in Piste whilst being entertained by some local colorful glad locals. Ended the day off with a fantastic meal at the Dragon Palace restaurant; the Asian offering at The Vines - really, really good.

Lazy day today, just laying around the pool and vegging out.

Peter and Joan


Prehispanic folklore and magic show

2012-12-27

Yesterday was a fairly quiet day, windy overcast and some rain but nevertheless enjoyable; relaxing, reading and sleeping. Last night was really spectacular - started with a Michelin quality Italian meal (and Californian wine) followed by a Prehispanic history, folklore and dance show. Colorful, primal and entertaining. Incredible music, all produced by drums, turtle shells, sea shells and reed flutes. Beautiful costumes, headgear and body painting. The dancing grew to a climax with the virgin's heart being removed and offered to the gods.

This show was followed by a magician; David Garrity. I always find illusionists entertaining but frustrating because they make their magic look so simple. This guy was no exception, a very modern and technical show with lots of audience participation that left us all mystified and wanting more.

Tomorrow off to the local markets, more swimming and carnivale in the evening. Until tomorrow......Peter and Joan.


Friday Markets and Carnival Fiesta

2012-12-28

Our short holiday is quickly coming to an end. Friday was a busy day but very enjoyable. In the morning we caught a local bus into Cancun to visit Market 28. A very lively and colorful market with the ever present gaggle of store owners vying for business. Some more enthusiastic/needy/pressing than others but all part of the experience. They quite skillfully separated us from some of our money, souvenirs and clothing was after all the intent of the excursion. We walked away thinking we got a bargain but suspect we paid too much. Win/win I guess! We did end up with what is now becoming a tradition - some clothing for the grandkids to add to their ever growing international wardrobe.

Afternoon was back to the pool and beach for more sun and vitamin D. Can't believe only a couple of days and we are back to minus 20 something, snow and ice. Last night was a real bonus. We headed back into town and caught the party boat to Isle Mujeres for the Carnival Fiesta and Caribbean show. It was open bar all night and the party crew made sure every one participated and danced. On the 45 minute trip to the island the crew plied us with rum and taught us the basic dance steps required (think Zumba). On the island after the banquet meal we were entertained and participated in Rumba, Salsa and Merengue dancing; even some African dancing. There was no let up on the boat trip home. The carnival atmosphere continued. It was a real fun night, even if it was a little late and involved just a little too much rum.

Tomorrow is our last day and we have no intention of moving away from poolside all day, weather permitting.

Postscript: Good flight back to Edmonton, but not much fun walking out of the airport into -30 deg and having to dig the car out of about 5 foot of snow. Uneventful trip back to Tumbler Ridge though a lot of carnage and cars/trucks in the ditch along the highways.


Back in time - Barkerville

2013-05-18 to 2013-05-20

We went back in time this weekend. Friday night after depositing Bella (the dog) at the kennels we drove the 4 hours to Prince George. Overnighted in PG with some shopping taking up most of Saturday morning. Purchased car seats for the grandkids - yeap only 4 weeks and they will be here. Getting real excited now!

From PG we headed further South to Quesnel, and then diverted to the artistic (old hippy) town of Wells. Another 8 klms east and we entered the time portal of Barkerville, a gold mining community. Welcome to 1866. The town of Barkerville has been preserved or caught in a time warp and is a living historic museum of the Cariboo gold rush, where Billy Barker discovered gold in Williams Creek in 1861 and thus the name Barkerville. We checked into the St George Hotel situated on the winding Main Street in the middle of town. It was raining when we arrived and the narrow dirt streets were a quagmire, luckily most businesses have a raised boardwalk out front so arrived at the hotel front door relatively dry and free of mud. No cars, no telephone(LAN or mobile), no television = peace and relaxation). Spent Saturday and Sunday taking in the town tours, street theatre, indoor theatre, going to local court, back to school and mingling with the locals. Sunday was a clear warm day and a lot of fun. Really enjoyed and learnt a lot during the China town tour. Our host at the hotel was Sayer who was in character the whole time and made our stay very special.

Saturday night I think we were the only one's staying in town. Last night we had few more guests in town. This morning I sat on the first floor verandah of the hotel, enjoyed strong brewed coffee and watched the town slowly come alive and found myself imagining exactly how it was 150 years ago. A really enjoyable and rewarding long weekend

The drive back to Tumbler Ridge was uneventful, though rained all the way and drove through snow just out of Tumbler Ridge - can't work this place out!

Just for the record, this weekend spotted 10 black bears, 1 grizzly, 3 moose, some deer, countless ground squirrels and I think 1 marmot.

Until next time stay safe and happy. Peter and Joan.


Day 1 - Canadian Road trip

2013-06-13 to 2013-06-14

Last night we left Tumbler Ridge and drove for Prince George enroute to Vancouver to pick up the kids. Yes the day has finally arrived. Trip to PG was uneventful - 1 black sow and 2 little cubs. Really enjoyed the drive from PG to Vancouver. Incredible change in landscape from the Rockies through 100 Mile House which is a town not a structure through desolate dessert type landscape into the unbelievable Fraser Valley, Lytton, Boston Bar and then Hells Gate. "We had to travel where no human being should venture for surely we have encountered the gates of hell”. – Simon Fraser, 1808.

From the Fraser Valley, by far the most amazing and picturesque valley I have had the pleasure to drive through, it was a relaxing drive along Highway 1 into Vancouver. In the morning we head to the airport to pick up the kids - Can't wait.


Day 2 - Canadian Road Trip

2013-06-15

Picked the kids up from airport this morning. Spent this morning at Stanley Park so that Billy & Jayce could have a run around. Had an enjoyable lunch at the Fish House and then home for nanna naps. This evening wandered down to Coal Harbour to watch the sea planes take off. After supper walked along Robson Street and the kids had an ice cream before returning home for the 'never ending day' to come to an end for the weary travelers.


Day 3 - Canadian Road Trip

2013-06-16

Young people slept in till 9:30am this morning. We then headed to Capilano Gorge. Did the cliff walk , crossed the suspension bridge, did the nature walk, tree-top walk, got the certificate for surviving the lot, had some lunch and then headed back into the town. Did a quick tour through Gastown and Chinatown. Kids a little taken back by the other side of Vancouver. Had anther treat tonight and introduced the kids to crepes at the Crepe Cafe - fun meal then home to charge the batteries again for tomorrow.


Day 4 - Canadian Road trip

2013-06-17

Another fun day with the grandkids. Visited Granville Island markets in the morning. First stop was the kids market. Had a ball here and told the kids that they jcould have whatever they wanted (a belated birthday present for Billy). After going into every store twice and playing all the games they chose 2 plastic swords, a fireman's helmet and a gun. Got out of that one really cheap. After lunch we visited the public market and somehow ended up at the Granville Island Brewery tasting room. 3 tasters each and 6 pack later we headed for Walmart - a new cultural experience for the kids.
Another experience for supper - introduced the kids to The Keg and Tim came away with a big claim - best steak he has ever had! The grandkids are still getting over jet lag and have not been sleeping that well. Hoping they have a full sleep tonight as we have a big day planned for tomorrow at the Vancouver Aquarium.


Day 5 - Canadian Road Trip

2013-06-18

Relatively early start this morning. Arrived at Stanley Park at 10:00am and lined up to get our tickets into Vancouver Aquarium. Through the doors and the boys were off. Lots of colorful jelly fish, weird and wonderful frogs, then the shark tanks c/w turtles. Then into the Amazon display, colorful birds, Marmosets, and my first ever sloth (so that's what my primary school teacher thought I resembled). Outside we were treated with Streller Sea Lions, dolphins, porpoise and the show stealers, mother and daughter Beluga whales. The little boys had not slowed down at all, then onto the penguins and sea otters. After lunch the 4D movie - really informative and fun documentary on the migration of the salmon and the associated food chain. Incredible scenes of grizzly bears feeding all the while the audience being splashed with water, smell-a-vision and bubbles while being shaken about in their seats. Fantastic day all round. Drove back to the motel via Gastown to show the visitors the Steam Clock. A perfect day ended with a perfect meal at the Cactus Club Cafe, down at Coal Harbour. Kids really impressed with Canadian beef - 2 perfect steaks 2 nights in a row. I didn't mind the curry either. Pack up tomorrow and head for Kamloops. Kids looking forward to having a swim.


Days 6 & 7 - Canadian Road trip

2013-06-19 to 2013-06-20

Yesterday we left Vancouver and it started raining as soon as we left the city limits and continued all the way to Kamloops. Unfortunately for Kath and Tim we were in cloud most of the way and they missed the beauty and wonder of the Fraser Valley. The rain eased as we reached Kamloops. Found our hotel and did a quick run around Kamloops, visiting the airport and taking a walk along the Thompson River.

This morning we headed out early and visited the BC Nature Park, just east of Kamloops. Still overcast but decided to wet their appetite with some local wildlife (also some insurance just in case the wildlife is a little scarce between here and Tumbler Ridge). The park had on display a good selection of both grizzly and black bears, moose, bison, deer, elk and raptors. Grandkids enjoyed the display and the train ride. After lunch we ventured onto Revelstoke with a special treat for the grandkids - the Enchanted Forest - a magical little part of BC with a brilliant display of nursery rhymes set in a magical forest location. Enjoyed by grandkids, parents and grandparents. We are staying in Revelstoke tonight hoping to get to Banff tomorrow - road is currently blocked due to a mud slide east of Golden. Let's hope the road is open in the morning.


Day 8 - The day they shut Alberta down

2013-06-21

Woke this morning to the news that Canmore had been washed off the map - our next little hidden treasure - planned stopover for the next 2 days. Quick trip to the information centre to find out Banff and Calgary were out of the question for the near future. Immediate change of plans - back to Kamloops to regroup and head for Jasper via Mt Robson. First stop on return trip was 3 Valley Gap. Joan and the kids visited the ghost town whilst I goggled motels and new points of interest. We then stopped at Crazy Creek to experience the suspension bridge and a swim in the heated pools. A late lunch had us arriving back into Kamloops late afternoon, late swim in the hotel pool, run-around to find a laundromat and then a disagreement at the first restaurant (grumpy old man's fault) resulted in late supper for the little boys. Luckily Boston Pizza saved the day. A good day all things considered - worst flooding in decades according to the late news - looking forward for a better day tomorrow.


Day 9 - This ain't Banff

2013-06-22

Up early this morning and did a big load of washing. We then headed north from Kamloops towards Valemount. Original itinerary had us at Lake Louise today but due to the floods we are now exploring BC. It rained on and off all day but the sun pushed through when we eventually arrived at Mount Robson. Had an enjoyable couple of hours at Mount Robson, called into the Terry Fox Park before heading back to the motel for happy hour before supper. Highlight of the day was the kids spotted their first wild bears - 2 black bears in a paddock beside the road. Tommorrow we head for Jasper.


Day 10 - Valemount to Jasper

2013-06-23

First stop his morning was Rearguard falls. Joan and I have visited here before but a lot more water flowing through now, compared to last September. Then we had a real treat, Mount Robson was not covered in cloud. Stopped for the compulsory photos then onto Alberta and to Jasper. A quick visit to the information centre followed by lunch in the park, then off to the aerial tramway to Mount Marmot. A real treat for Kathy, Tim and the boys - the first time that they have touched snow. Seen plenty of it from afar last few days but the first time for hands on. Had a fun time on top of the world overlooking Jasper and then a lesson of how quickly things can change in this country. A storm blew in and we were stuck on top of the mountain for about an hour and half till it passed. On the way back into town we passed a small herd of elk and hawk eye Kath also spotted a deer.


Day 11 - Welcome to Edmonton

2013-06-24

The days are getting bigger. We left Jasper this morning, though we are planning to return later in the week. Just out of Jasper we ran into a sleepy herd of Big Horn Sheep. On the run into Edmonton and we spotted deer, some more elk and a goat. The bears (both black and grizzly) are being very elusive - perhaps on the return trip to Jasper.

Once we found the motel it was off to the mall (across the road). Edmonton Mall once held the title as the largest mall in the world contains mini golf, aquarium, water park c/w wave machine, rope park, galaxy park (think Luna Park), ice rink, theaters and in Jayce's terms one hundred million shops. After 18 holes of mini golf we went to the Sea Lion show where Billy starred by throwing hoops into the water for the sea lion to collect. Then off to the aquarium to pat the sting rays and see the penguins. After some serious shopping we then took the boys to the Galaxy Park where they had a number of rides including dodge-em-cars. After a big meal at Mr Mikes it was home for the evening routine. Boys get bathed, and then off to bed and we play cards.


Day 13 & 14 - Edmonton floods.

2013-06-27

After a fantastic day yesterday we woke up to rain Tuesday morning and obvious that it wasn't going to clear anytime soon. We took the opportunity to do some laundry and the kids went the Telus Science centre. We then visited Cabela's outdoor store. Had a lazy afternoon back at the motel watching TV and the news that Edmonto's storm water system couldn't handle the 26mm downpour they received that day.
Up Wednesday morning to clear blue skies and off to Jasper we headed. Good trip, no animals other than the back end of a fleeting black bear. Once at Jasper, elk and deer everywhere. Checked into the Jasper House Bungalows and spent the afternoon exploring the grounds and surrounds. Had a great time playing with the boys on the river's edge, throwing stones and watching passing white water rafters. Evening spent playing cards and watching deer out the window of our log cabin. We have booked a wildlife tour and cruise on Maligne Lake for Thursday. Really enjoying the time with the kids and grandkids. Unfortunately though almost time to head back to Tumbler Ridge. Have to make the most of the next few days, though I would like to think we are keeping the best till last.


Day 15 - Wilderness and Spirit Island

2013-06-28

Today was another magic day. Woke up to beautiful clear blue skies. We were picked up from Jasper House Bungalows at 9:00am by Maligne Adventures for their Wildlife and Waterfalls Tour. First stop was Maligne Canyon. A real surprise. Thanks to a glacier an underground cavern is now an impressive series of waterfalls in a narrow 51 meter canyon. Back on the bus and onto Medicine Lake. Another picture perfect Canadian alpine lake. After a short stop and the mandatory photos, onto Maligne Lake and a boat trip to the "world famous" Spirit Lake. Had a good day with the family, took a heap of scenic photos plus a few good shots of the grandkids. Lunch was something special for Billy and Jayce as we were joined by a ground squirrel and they were beside themselves with excitement. The real bonus was on the trip home Tim spotted a cinnamon bear near Medicine Lake. The bus turned around and we got a few photos. Holiday is coming to an end, heading to Grande Prairie Friday, Rio Grandie rodeo Saturday and then back to Tumbler Ridge.


Day 16 - Jasper to Grande Prairie

2013-06-29

Friday was a quiet day and a frustrating one. Started off well, spotting both long horn sheep and goats just out of Jasper. An elderly local was quite emotional seeing the goats as he said they had not been in this area for a couple of years and he was overjoyed to see them back. Very little wildlife between Japser and Grande Cache , though Tim thinks he saw a lynx. Everyone was excited to see a coyote cross the road between Grande Cache and Grande Prairie but no bears or moose. Jayce is still hanging out for a giraffe.

Arrived in Grande Prairie - 1st disappointment the hotel pool was closed for maintenance. Then we couldn't find the little boys camo shirts - I (pop) had promised to buy them hunting shirts. Could not find kids camo anywhere. In past trips you could buy camo nappies, camo anything, today nothing, so after the 4th shop we settled for hockey shirts. Another promise down the drain, but the argument was hockey is very Canadian, you can hunt anywhere. The last frustration being Friday night we could not reserve or find a restaurant for 6. Ended up at Tony Roma's which ended up a good choice and Tim was adventurous and ordered the ribs (the best in America) - they were not forthcoming which restaurant in Canada cooks the best ribs but Tim seemed satisfied with his serving. Last day of the road trip tomorrow and the kids finally see Tumbler Ridge.


Day 17 - Last day of road trip

2013-06-30

Last day - headed for home today but a big day was had first. Early start with a swim with the kids at the hotel straight after breakfast. Yes the pool was heated and indoors. Mandatory shopping and car all gassed up and then off to Beaver Lodge on the way to Elmsworth. Elmsworth was hosting the 3 day Rio Grande Rodeo this weekend. Being the first day, the program was restricted to young britches - under 6 through to under 16. Program consisted of barrel racing, bending, goat tying and calf roping. Consensus by days end was young ozzies are much better riders. We however enjoyed the program and the organizers gave us a warm welcome and some good hearted ribbing as we were the only Australians in the crowd - in fact the only non-Canadians in the crowd that day. The reason we invested a day at Elmsworth was to give the kids a taste of Chuck Wagon racing and for them to experience the mad minute as the wagons race around the track. Preliminary events were held Saturday evening which provided a little insight into how crazy this sport is. The day didn't end there; we still had a 2 hour drive back to Tumbler Ridge. Would have liked to stay for the main events being held Sunday and Monday (public holiday - Canada Day) but kids only have 5 days left before heading back to Australia. The grandkids were finally going to see Nanny and Pop's house. Good trip home with one special moment. Kathy spotted a Lynx crossing the road at about the 8 klm mark on the Hourglass road. This is my first sighting of a Lynx, so another box ticked. Home safe and sound and the kids have checked out the house - all very exciting. Tomorrow we going to pick up Bella from the kennel - more excitement.


Day 18 & 19 - Tumbler Ridge

2013-07-01

Sunday had a quiet day at home. Had a few people over for a bar-b-que lunch. Late afternoon Tim, Billy and I got to explore some of the local area by Razor (side by side ATV's) thanks to Robert and Stuart. Got home just ahead of a good storm. Awoke Monday to a beautiful sunny day. The plan for today was to take the kids hiking and show them some of the beauty and wilderness around Tumbler Ridge. First stop was Mt Hermann. A fantastic spot where you can drive above the tree-line and view Monkman Park and the Murray River from the alpine region of this mountain. From here we ventured back down the mountain and headed for Balfour Falls. An easy short hike into a fairly impressive series of water falls. Think the kids were a little apprehensive but we were well stocked with bear mace, air horns, bear bells and the list goes on. The grand kids had gone over a number of scenarios and had some impressive and imaginative solutions at hand if we were approached/attacked by a bear. For some reason the normally talkative boys were very reserved and Kathy made sure the bear bells were ringing the whole time we were in the forest. In the end it was an uneventful trek in and a leisurely walk out after a picnic lunch. Unfortunately the only wildlife encountered was a single ground squirrel. Also did a quick run out to Bullmoose Marsh, but did not spent too much time there as boys had fallen asleep.


Kinuseo falls - Murray River

2013-07-04

Second last day of Kathy and Tim's Canadian holiday was spent on a jet boat trip to Kinuseo Falls. A fantastic day. Blue skies, almost had the Murray River to ourselves and as always Randy (boat owner) put on a great day for us. The little boys enjoyed the boat trip though Jayce slept most of the upstream trip. The last night we had an enjoyable supper at the Steak House. Today we are heading for Dawson Creek for lunch then we drop the kids at Fort St John for their big flight home tonight. The last 3 weeks has gone far too quick but we have had a great time, shared a lot of British Columbia and Alberta with the kids. Hope that they had as good a time and enjoyed it as much as we did.


Julie's visit July 2013

2013-07-25 to 2013-07-28

Joan picked Julie up from Fort St John, Thursday evening. Julie had a good but extended flight - plane was turned back to Brisbane for a medical emergency (not Julie) resulting in a 4 hour delay and missing her connecting flight, Vancouver to FSJ.

Friday was a day of familiarization with Tumbler Ridge and a round of golf (yes on the golf course with the black bear and cub). Saturday and Sunday an opportunity for Julie to see some of the surrounding wilderness and wildlife. The weather has not been particularly kind, being overcast and scattered showers both days. The weather though did not slow us down too much. Saturday saw us drive to Kinuseo Falls. We also drove to Mt Hermann, but turned back when we found the summit clouded in. Sunday we visited the tower lookout above Tumbler Ridge, Moose Lake and Bull Moose marshes. On the wildlife front, Julie spotted a grizzly on the trip to Kineseo, not bad 2nd day in Canada. Day 3 we saw a Lynx. Julie was present but didn't see the deer or get a photo of the beaver at Bull Moose Marshes.
Tomorrow Julie and Joan head off on their road trip. Little envious that they are off to PG, Mt Robson, Jasper and Grande Prairie before getting back next Sunday for Grizfest - annual music festival in TR. Headline band this year being The Sweet. Yeap the remains (Steve Priest) of the glitter rock band that bought us "Ballroom Blitz". Can't wait!


Julie can now add mountain climbing and hiking to her CV.

2013-07-29 to 2013-08-05

Joan and Julie got back from their PG - Mt Robson - Jasper - Grande Prairie road trip on Saturday (3 August) with lots of stories and photos. Sunday was day 2 of the Tumbler Ridge Grizfest Musical Festival and the weather was picture perfect. Headed off after lunch with The Walking Shadows (local band ) kicking off the line up. The afternoon followed with Wide Mouth Mason, The Sweet, Kira Isabella and Dragonette. A magic day with Sweet really getting the crowd rocking!
Monday, a public holiday for BC day had us heading off to share some more of the local sites of Tumbler Ridge with Julie. First stop was the alpine heights of Mt Hermann. This is real Julie Andrews terrain - the hills are alive....we went right to the top and Julie can now add mountain climbing to her CV. After a picnic lunch on top of the world we headed for PRC and took Julie on a short hike and a little more mountain climbing into Babcock falls. Now she can add hiking and bush walking to her list of activities, as well - check out the photos. A great weekend all round. Only regret no wildlife. Julie is yet to really see a moose. Maybe this week.


Nikki and family arrive

2013-09-15

Nikki, Shaun and the girls arrived today. We picked them up from Fort St John Airport and immediately took them to a park for some lunch and a chance for the girls to run around after the 20 or so hours on the plane from Sydney - Vancouver - Fort St John. After the mandatory stop at Walmart for some warmer clothing and a stroller for Abbey we headed for Tumbler Ridge stopping off at the historic Kiskatinaw curved wooden bridge on the way. Early to bed as lots to do tomorrow.


Tumbler Ridge and surrounds

2013-09-16 to 2013-09-20

I had to work this week but the kids caught up on some sleep and Joan acted as tour guide during the day and I did my bit each afternoon after work to show the visitors as much of Tumbler Ridge and surrounds. On day 1 Joan provided a familiarisation of Tumbler Ridge and introduced the girls to the pool, playground and all the other facilities at the Communiuty Centre. All of this proved too much for Abbie (refer photo). After work I took the visitors to Babcock Mountain to see Trend Mines. On the way home they saw their first bear - 3 black bears in total.

Tuesday Joan drove them to Kinuseo Falls and they spent the day exploring the Falls area, Murray River and the entrance to Monkman Park. Wednesday was another day around town and a fun game of golf at the TR Golf Club. After work we visited Mt Herman and viewed the Murray River from the 'top of the world' and the kids discovered the 'cairns' that have been erected here on the summit. The kids will see a lot more examples of cairns and inuksuks on out travels next 2 weeks.

Thursday Joan took the kids to the Tumbler Ridge Dinosaur Museum. Friday was a day at home packing bags and the car as this afternoon we started our roadtrip. We headed off late afternoon with compulsay stops at Chetwynd (timber carvings) and Bijoux Falls. We spent the first night in Prince George.


Prince George to Jasper

2013-09-21

Not the best start to a road trip. Car full of fluey people, raining and I miscalculated fuel required and ran out of fuel 18klm short of McBride. 2 hours quality time with the kids before on the road again. A late lunch in McBride (still love this place) then it was on the road again to Terry Fox Mountain, before the now traditional photo at the gateway to Mount Robson Park. A well earnt stop and run-around for the girls at Mount Robson Park and then an easy late afternoon run across the border into Alberta to Jasper - home for the next few days.

Wildlife count today includes beavers, 1 black bear and elk. Looking forward to a big day tomorrow boating on Maligne Lake.


Lake Maligne and Maligne Canyon

2013-09-22

A little overcast this morning but we headed out to Lake Maligne for what turned out to be a fanatastic day. A short stop at Medicine Lake then onto to Maligne. After the family photo with the Mounty Bear it was on the boat for the hour long majestic trip to the 'world famous' Spirit Island. Once again, as with Billy and Jayce, the kids enjoyed the boat trip and we were rewarded with some great photos. After a hearty lunch we headed off, stopping on the way for a herd of long horn sheep. Also surprised the kids with a stop at Maligne Canyon. Like us the first time we visited here, they were quite surprised by this phenomia of canyons and waterfalls exposed by a glacier for us to enjoy. It was almost dark when we got back into Jasper, just in time to see a number of caribou and elk making their way into the safety of the resort town for the night.


Mount Marmot

2013-09-23

Another fun day today with Mount Marmot on the itinerary. First surprise of the day is we spoke to a group of Ozzies this morning at breakfast and only to find that some of them are from Goulburn NSW and know relatives of Shaun (talk abouit 6 degrees of seperation). The next big surprise for the morning - first snowfall for the season on the Mount and we we were there to share it with the kids and the grandchildren. The little girls really enjoyed the condola ride to the summit. It was all a little too much and too cold for Abbie so she hung with grandad whilst the others explored and played in the snow. After warm cups of hot chocolate we returned to the warmer climes of downtown Jasper. The afternoon drive around resulted in some first class elk shots (refer photos).


Edmonton

2013-09-24 to 2013-09-25

Yesterday we travelled from Jasper to Edmonton. We arrived to early to check into our Motel so we headed to the West Edmonton Mall. First stop was Sea Lion Rock where the little girls really enjoyed the Sea Lion show, the penguin enclosure and the petting pool. From here we explored the remainder of the complex, the indoor wave machine and swimming pool, the ice rink, the many shops and galaxyworld.

Today it was back to the West Edmonton Mall for a few special surprises. The first being Build-A-Bear Workshop were Maddie and Abbie got to each make a new best friend. The process being:- select an animal, stuff your new furry friend, make a wish, give it a heart and a voice. Once all this is done you then get to name your new teddy, and register a personalised birth certrificate. From here it was to the Disney shop for Nanna to spoil the grandkids a little more. The afternoon was spent shopping and at galaxyworld where the girls enjoyed some rides better than others, but good time had by all. Had supper in Bourbon Street before heading back to the motel.


Drumheller

2013-09-26

We packed up and headed for Drumheller this morning in the Red Deer valley known as the badlands, south of Edmonton 110 kilometres northeast of Galgary in Alberta. It wasn't a long drive but long enough for Abbie who was not enjoying being back in the car. I dropped Joan and the kids at the Royal Tyrrell Museum, Canada's centre of palaeontogical research with over 130,000 fossils including over 40 dinosaur skeletons on display. I could not join the kids because I had a work teleconference to attend. From all reports they had a great time with the girls running from one display to the next. The adults also fully appreciated what is on offer here. After collecting them from museum we went and visited the minature church and then went to the town centre to see the world's largest dinosaur - a 25 metre high model Tryannosaurus Rex located at the information centre. The girls were surprised to find dinosaur statutes scattered all over town. We plan to visit these again in the morning and get some photos.


Hoodoos, Dinosaures and Calgary & Canmore

2013-09-27

Up early, breakfast at A & W before heading out of town to see the Hoodoos - shale and sandstone columns created over millions of years of wind and rain - another natural beautiful but fragile  marvel mother nature has provided us. From here it was time to go back into town and capture some photos of the kids (big and small) with some of the many colourful dinosaur statutes scattered all around Drumheller. After climbing the T-Rex and viewing Drumheller from his mouth we had some smoko in the park and then hit the road for Calgary, stopping in at Horseshoe Canyon on the way, where I had purchased certified dinosaur bone on our previous trip through there.

As we haven't seen much wildlife this trip we decided to call into Outdoor World on the outskirts of Calgary as a form of insurance as their stores have hundreds of taxidermed animals in life-like poses and situations. It is also a great hunting and outdoor clothing store. It is a real insight to the Canadian way of life and defitinetly a place to by to cam - camoflaged clothing and accessories. The kids were blown away with the displays and the store in general.

We stayed in the complex for lunch and against all odds sat next to the Goulburn travellers we had met in Jasper - they were flying out of Calgary that afternoon for Sydney. After lunch we were back on the road heading to Canmore, our overnight stay just before Banff. We stayed at the Inn of the Rockies. Stayed here previously when passing through here with Julie.


Banff, Revelstoke to Sicamous

2013-09-28

As we had a big day planned for today we started early and decided to do the readers' digest version of Banff, so we went straight to the Bow River waterfalls just below the Fairmont Motel, then  back over to the lookout on the other side of the river with the kids literally running up the stairs to see the view of the luxurious Fairmont Banff Springs hotel. It was then back up Tunnel Mountain Road to the river side walk and panoramic views of Banff. From here back onto Highway 1 and off to Lake Louise. We walked around Lake Louise taking numerous photos of the sparkling blue waters of this alpine lake, the bright red canoes lining the wharf and another Fairmont property - Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise. Two Fairmont hotels in one morning.

After lunch we pressed on to Revelstoke (back into British Columbia) and a really big surprise for the grand daughters - The Enchanted Forest. A family owned attraction situated in an old growth forest in the Monashee Mountains. For us it was 2 hours of absolute delight watching the girls run from one attraction to the next. Lots of photos, lots of wide eyes and lots of enjoyment for young and old. A brillant day all round.

Had a quiet night in Sicamous with a great meal and a few cold beers at Moose Milligan's Pub on the shores of Lake Shuswap.


Wildlife Park and Scott's Inn

2013-09-29

Main attraction today was the Kamloops Wildlife Park. Another opportunity for the kids to see and get close to more of the incredible North American animals, ride the train and see some native birds. The most amazing thing was watching a grizzly climb a tree. If being chased by one of these critters I guess there is no escape. They can run and they can climb.

After lunch we headed into Kamloops and back to the Scott's Inn - 3rd time this year - Tim & Kathy, Julie and now Shaun & Nikki. Had the mandatory swim in the (heated) hotel pool. Big day tomorrow - drive all the way to Vancouver and then catch the car ferry to Vancouver Island. The little girls are in for another big surprise.


Ferry ride to Vancouver Island

2013-09-30

A big drive today got us to the ferry terminal at Tsawwassen for our passage across to Vancouver Island. We purchased our ticket and then lined up, with plenty of time to spare. We joined the other passengers in the terminal shopping complex - coffee and souveniers for everyone. The girls got really excited when we got to drive on and then walk around this big ship with lots of shops, cafes and play areas. The trip across was just over an hour and as soon as we landed it started to rain and unfortunatley continued to rain for the majority of the time until we departed the island next afternoon. Had a quiet evening at the Cherry Tree Inn - a comfortable but strange boutique motel perched on the side of a hill - only motel we have ever stayed in that did not provide tea or coffee making facilities. Had to borrow a jug from reception to heat Abbie's bottle. Had a good meal at a White Spot restuarant and the little girls are starting to get accustomed and comfortable at this eating out kaper.


Victoria

2013-10-01

Drove into Victoria this morning and parked near the British Columbia Parliament Buildings and walked around Esquimalt Lagoon. Ended up at Minature World which was a hit with both the little and big kids - about 100 different displays with remarkable accuracy and detail, from story book themes, to images of war, outer space, Canadian wilderness and an incredible circus display. Surprisingly spent a number of hours wandering through this little gem. From here we ventured onto Craigdarroch Castle and once again a little hidden treasure. Spent another 2 hours exploring here. Next stop was to be Buchart Gardens for lunch, the world's premier show gardens, and a designated National Historic Site of Canada but they wanted to charge us $120 to drive through the gate so we found somewhere cheaper for lunch and then headed for Nanaino to catch the evening ferry back to West Vancouver. Only 3 more days before the kids head home. Wow the last 3 weeks have been a blur. Base for the next 3 nights is the North Vancouver Hotel, with the kids flying out Friday night and us driving home Saturday.


A Grouse day

2013-10-02

Another fun packed day today. First stop today was the salmon farm and salmon ladder then it was onto Grouse Mountain. A little dissappointed that the Axeman/Timberman show was not on - already closed for the season so had to be content looking at the timber statutes and of course the star attractions - Grinder and Coola, the two grizzley bears. Got lots of photos and plenty of action watching the bears eat, swim and play. After lunch we headed back down the mountain to spend the afternoon at Capilano Gorge and Suspension Bridge. Once again the kids really enjoyed the water features, the cliff walk and especially the suspension bridge and tree top walk. They also saw some raptors and successfully got all their passport stamps to claim their "I Made It" Certificate.

Tonight we attempted something new. Maddie and Nikki wanted to try ice skating so we took them to Killarney Rink and got them all kitted out with skates and helmet and lead them to the ice rink. Maddie lasted about 1 minute, Nikki hung in and did a few laps with the aid of a skating frame, but all in all an early night. The good news being all had fun and it didn't end in tears.


Granville Island, Harley Davisons and Walmart

2013-10-03

This morning we drove around Stanley Park and then ended up at one of my favourite spots in Vancouver - Granville Island. The kids got the standard tour through the food market with all its colours and aromas, along with all the people. Then it was along to the Toy store for the little girls to be amazed at all on offer. After this we ventured down to Gas Town to see to see all the sites and the steam clock. It was then Shaun's turn to have some fun. Initially Shaun was going to hire a motor bike and do some touring but time and weather didn't permit this so today we visited the Trev Deeley Motocycle Exhibition - the largest privately owned collection in Canada consisting of over 250 motorcycles representing 50 different brands.

From here it was off to Walmart to buy some additional luggage so that the kids could pack all their souvenoirs and Canadian memories, as tomorrow is the last day of their holiday. Tonight we had a fantastic Italian take away meal from Gianni's Italian Restuarant - absolutely mouth watering. The kids somehow jammed all their belongings into new and old suitcases and one last sleep for a big day tomorrow before the big flight back to Oz.


Aquarium and Stanley Park

2013-10-04

Last day and a big one planned so that the kids fall onto the midnight plane and sleep most of the way home. The main activity today was the Vancouver Aquarium. The day was a little overcast but it didn't spoil the day. It was full on from the time we went through the gates till we emerged mid afternoon. As always the aquarium was a hit - lots of colourful fish (and birds), penguins, dolphins, otters and beluga whales - Aurora and Qila (mother and daughter). The girls also really enjoyed the 4-D cinema, which was showing Sponge Bob - The Great Jelly Rescue. We had really built this up as we really enjoyed the The Great Salmon Run experience on previous visits. All good in the end and probably a better choice for the young girls.

After the aquarium we spent sometime touring Stanley park and one last big play with the little kids on the swings and fire engine. After one last drive through downtown Vancouver and Gas Town, we packed the car up and headed for the airport and before we knew it the kids had walked through security and it was all over - back to reality. Drive home tomorrow to Tumbler Ridge and back to work. As with Kathy and Tim, and Julie hope Nikki and Shaun enjoyed their time in Canada as much as we enjoyed having them.


Homeward Bound

2014-04-01

Our 2 year secondment in Canada has come to an end. Today is the start of the next chapter. My work at PRC is done, we have said goodbye to all our friends and colleagues. We have really enjoyed our time and travels in Canada and formed some incredible friendships. Thanks everyone for the good times and the memories.

Today we have travelled Grande Prairie -> Calgary -> Toronto -> New York and now the holiday trek home begins. Plan is New York till Sunday, then fly to Las Vegas, drive to the Grand Canyon, spend the next 10 days driving around Utah and California eventually ending up in San Francisco. From San Francisco to Beijing, onto Xian, down the Yahtzee on a cruise, eventually to Shanghai and then back to reality - Brisbane around the 5th May and back to work.

As always will post a few photos along the way. Looking forward to getting back to Australia and catching up with family and friends. We arrived in NYC this evening, booked into the Crowne Plaza, had dinner at the Olive Garden, then wandered around Times Square. Now back in the room planning tomorrow's adventures.

Stay safe and happy.


NYC - Day 2 - Downtown, Central Park & Brooklyn

2014-04-02

A big day on the 'Hop On Hop Off' bus. We started with the down town run. From Time Square, to Madisson Square Garden, passed Macey's, through Noho (north of Hudson), into Soho (south of Hudson), through Greenwich Village onto the One World Trade Center, through the east Village, passed the United Nations and onto Central Park. Back into town and then off on the Brooklyn evening tour. Wow if we hadn't already had a great day visiting all the cool places we have heard about and watched on TV since the 60's we were off to Brooklyn - think of Welcome back Kotter, The Honeymooners, Kojak and more recently 2 Broke Girls. Also got our first glimpse of The Statue of Liberty - might visit there tomorrow. On returning to Times Square we dined at the Red Lobster - really good, then to M & M World, then Hershey's chocolate world before waddling off to bed.


NYC - Day 3 - Brooklyn, Staten Island & Top of the Rock

2014-04-03

NYC turned on a perfect day today and we made the most of it. Enjoyed Brooklyn last night so revisited this morning and walked across the Brooklyn Bridge with about 10,000 other people. From here we headed off to the Staten Island Ferry for a free round trip to Staten Island for the mandatory Statue of Liberty photos. Back on Manhattan a hot dog from a street vendor for lunch, back on the hop on hop off bus to head back up town. We went as far as the Rockfeller Center and then made our way to the 69th floor - Top of the Rock Observatory. A clear day but still very smoggy view of the city. Fond of NYC but still glad we live in the country. Bonus find on the way back to the hotel. Time for supper so we stopped at the Bombay Masala, 148 W. 49th Street, just off 6 th Ave - absolutely brilliant curry. Man I love Indian food!

Not sure what is in store for tomorrow. Forecast is rain so we will take it as it comes. Catch up tomorrow.  Peter & Joan.


NYC - Day 4 - Wet and cold

2014-04-04

Woke late this morning to a rainy day. After a hearty breakfast onto the Red Bus for a trip uptown and the Bronx. An unexpected stop on the way up Manhatton at the Dakata Apartments, 1 West, 72nd Street, the address where John Lennon was murdered. From here it was onto the Bronx and the Yankee stadium. Still raining and very cold on top of an open double decker bus. From here down through Harlem and past the Apollo Theatre, which over the  years has hosted Arthea Franklin, John Lennon, B.B. King, Bob Marley, Jimi Hendrix and Stevie Wonder to name a few.

Back along 5th Avenue and the length of Central Park, till we found our way to Macey's. Definitely not my cup of tea. An entire block, 11 storey's high full of merchandise. Didn't spend too much time in this material world before we scampered home, picking up some tickets to the Lion King for tomorrow night. Still raining, let's hope for a slightly better day tomorrow. Until then take care.


NYC - Day 5 - Milestone day

2014-04-05

Woke to a beautiful day and a major life milestone - 60 years old today and celebrating it in New York. First stop was the NY museum of Natural History. We successfully got lost in there for about 3 hours before escaping to Central Park. Pleasantly warm and plenty of opportunities to watch New Yorkers at play. We walked from the West side to the East side before going for the mandatory horse and carriage ride through the park. The trees still bare from winter but the grass was turning green in places. Guess it will look entirely different in a few weeks. Locals kept telling us this was the worst winter for seventy years. Didn't have the heart to tell them we spent our winter in Tumbler Ridge, where it does snow! Anyway after lunch at the Plaza Hotel we headed home for nana naps before our big night out. Had a quick bite to eat at Smithy's - "you haven't visited New York until you have visited Smithy's", before heading off to the Lion King at the Minskoff Theatre. What can I say - 2.5 hours of absolute amazement and entertainment. Making our way home through Times Square at 11:00pm was an experience in itself. Only 2 blocks but took about 20 minutes. Wall to wall people. Anyway up early in the morning to get to JFK airport to fly to Las Vegas and onto the Grand Canyon for a couple of days.


Day 6 - Grand Canyon

2014-04-06

Pretty lazy day today, travelling. Up at 4:30am and out to JFK Airport for the flight to Las Vegas. Have to comment JFK one of the best airports I have been through  - from kerb to departure area less than 5 minutes. Dropped off bags, somehow granted priority security clearance, resulting in no queues, minimum fuss with emptying carryon bags and cavity searches etc.

Good flight to Las Vegas (5 hours). Arrived in Las Vegas at lunchtime. And yes it is true the first thing you see when you get off a plane in Las Vegas is slot machines. It is a large airport. Subway shuttle from the arrival terminal to baggage collection, then bus transfer to hire car centre. 1:30pm on the road to the Grand Canyon (283 klm). 15 mile out of Vegas a flat tire, spare only temporary narrow tire. 1.5 hours later new hire car (Jeep Patriot) and on the road again for the the Grand Canyon. Sometime during changing over cars it occurred to us that the 283 klm was actually 283 miles and we probably wouldn't get to the canyon in time for sunset. Ah well we will see it tomorrow. We soon left Nevada and crossed the border into Arizona. 3rd state today. Started in New York, landed in Nevada and drove to Arizona. Our introduction to Arizona was interesting - refer photo - 26 miles across the border =  Uranus Gas (puts a whole new meaning to recycling) - Bullets and Burgers - 50 calibre Machine Guns for hire, shooting range out the back!!! Interesting business/place. Ah, was also a bar so you could also get liquor. Eventually arrived at the Grand Canyon about 7:30. Big day tomorrow and guess plenty of photos.

Other good news today is the price of gas (petrol) in the US ( in this part anyway) is $3.20/gallon = about $0.95/litre if I have done my mental arithmetic correct.


Day 7 - A magical day

2014-04-07

Up early this morning and out to the Grand Canyon. Unbelievable!!!!! A perfect day, warm and clear blue sky. We spent the morning driving from one point to the next, getting out, walking, climbing and being amazed. It was also great just basking in the sun, picture beached whale pretending to be a lizard. Disapponted we missed the previous day's sunset but debated pros and cons of staying another day to capture the sunset and perhaps do a mule ride to the canyon floor, but limited time and the chance to catch a Las Vegas show had us back on the road after lunch, not before taking a zillion photos and capturing/enjoying some incredible vistas. Turned out to be a good decision. Had no problem finding the MGM Grand - kinda stands out. It is a 5,000 room complex. Scored an upgrade to the Grand Tower, but the real bonus being front row seats to the David Copperfield show. We were a little concerned as we ended up dead centre of the stage and close enough to rest our elbows on the stage floor. Concern was, these were the sucker seats for the audience participation portion of the show. As it turns out we were safe and were thoroughly entertained for 2 hours. We were so close we could actually touch most of the props and David (well his shoes anyway) and we could not tell how the illusions were done. Very technical but entertaining show. Have to be amazed when someone makes a real driveable Pontiac motor car appear less than 5 feet from you and then makes 13 randomly picked people disappear from a suspended platform, once again less than 5 feet away. The magic just kept coming. Really enjoyable and unforgettable experience. It was a big day all round. Think we will have a rest day tomorrow.


Day 8 - Lazy day in Vegas

2014-04-08

Slept in this morning, a late breakfast at Starbucks and then a  leisurely walk along the strip taking in the sites. A bit disappointed that we now find out we did't have to go to New York as there is a replica of all the major NY icons here -  could have saved a lot of time and money. Walked the entire strip and then caught the monorail back to MGM and enjoyed a late lunch poolside. You cannot believe how much we are enjoying the sun!!! The other bonus this morning is Joan got me my birthday present. A fisheye lens and a cyber optic HD filter for my camera - now just have to work out how they work.

After nana naps off to our 3rd show in a week. We really enjoyed the wilderness and isolation of Tumbler Ridge but man it is good to spoil ourselves and enjoy some culture and pure entertainment. 

Kà is a show by Cirque du Soleil at the MGM Grand in Las Vegas, and thanks to google I can tell you the show and the theatre cost $165 million to develop. It is a purpose built theatre. The structure and sets are really out there - difficult to describe - refer photos. The costumes, the aerobatics and aerial dancing was unreal. The Los Angeles Times stated it "may well be the most lavish production in the history of Western theater. It is surely the most technologically advanced."

Kà is a story about "conflict and love", of "imperial twins who are separated at the prime of their youth and must undergo a rite of passage of self-discovery. It is about their encounters with Kà, the fire that has the dual power to destroy or illuminate."

The show is made up of many scenes. The most memorable for me were the Storm, Drowning scene, archery scene, the battle, the blizzard, the human flying machine, shadows, forest scene, hamster wheel (wheel of death) and the final battle. The performers used the whole theatre and the space above the audience as well. In the end all were united, have love interests and speculate they all lived happy ever after.  Also have to comment on the best indoor pyrotechnics display we have ever witnessed.

After a late supper, we went back to the casino to try and pay for the holiday. We didn't and the outcome was pretty predictable. Joan won and I lost. Fortunately Joan won more than I lost so suppose a good night.

Take care all. Not sure what is happening tomorrow. We are leaving Las Vegas and driving west. Not to keen on LA so not sure we're we will stop. The joys of being on holidays.


Pawn stars

2014-04-09

Lazy morning, late breakfast and checked out of the MGM about 11:00am. Enjoyed our stay here but still cannot get my head around a 5,000 room hotel. The gaming rooms were occupied around the clock and suggest would be the same story 24/7. The restaurants were excellent and the bars countless.

Anyway to Joan's disgust I called into Pawn's Stars on the way out of town. Just in case you are not familiar with the popular and addictive TV show about the Gold and Silver Pawn Shop - a family run business in downtown Las Vegas - nothing to do with the sex trade at all. After a quick stop here it was westward bound. We arrived in Long Beach late afternoon and had a domestic evening doing laundry. Slipped out to pick up a pizza from Pizza Hut and realized we must be staying in the rough end of town. Servers behind bullet proof glass, paid via a money shute and pizza slid out through a sliding glass draw.

Not sure what is in store for today. Heading for Venice Beach now then into Hollywood and then ???? Will let you know tomorrow where we end up.

Take care Peter. & Joan


Thank god for GPS

2014-04-10

We survived the night in Long Beach and woke to a very thick fog. We drove the whole length of E Ocean Blvd and couldn't see the Pacific Ocean. Couldn't even park as it was Thursday and Thursday is street sweeping day and no parking 8:00 am to 11:00am. We moved up the coast to Venice Beach. Still foggy but starting to lift. Had a good walk along Venice Beach Boardwalk. Fairly ordinary day and not too many people about and only a few swimming. Nothing noteworthy found at Muscle Beach either - sorry Julie!

From here we moved onto Rodeo Drive (why??) Sunset Strip and then Hollywood & Vine and finally N Bronsan Ave for the mandatory photo of the Hollywood sign. It was time to get out of here so we jumped on the Hollywood Freeway N and made our escape via the north Hollywood hills. We were in traffic all the way to Bakersfield (roughly 100 mile). Had coffee here, regrouped and decided to push onto Fresno. Tomorrow hopefully the peace and quiet plus lots of walking around Yosemite National Park.

Am looking forward to getting to San Francisco but glad for now to have the cities behind us. Do not know how we would have navigated LA without the GPS - using maps and a navigator we would still be going around in circles and probably divorced, but GPS allowed us to run from one location to the next, leaving me just to cope with the traffic. Did not get lost or flustered once.


Yosemite National Park

2014-04-11

Had a good rest in Fesno last night and an easy run to Oakhurst this morning were we got the good oil from the helpful folk at the Information centre. 30 minutes later we were amongst the giant Sequoia trees at Mariposa Grove near the southern entrance to Yosemite National Park. Spent about 2 hours hiking through this area before heading deeper into the park. What a fantastic drive. We stopped at a number of locations for little walks and many photo opportunities, some great photos at Inspiration Point, Tunnel view, Valley view, Bridalveil Falls, Cathederal beach, Columbia Rock and Lower Yosemite Fall. Unfortunately the road to Glacier Point is still closed for winter. On the positive side, plenty of water and the falls were running a gusher. A really spectacular sight. Tonight we are staying in El Portal near the Arch Rock entrance. Not bad digs nested on the Merced River. Will recharge the batteries tonight and do it all again tomorrow.


Picture Perfect - Lost for words

2014-04-12

I do not have the vocabulary to describe the beauty and tranquility we found at Yosemite National Park. We started early and glad we did as it was a picture perfect Saturday and the crowd soon swelled to overwhelming. The situation  exasipated by the fact that half the park is still closed due to winter so there were no overflow areas to direct the hordes. We entered the park via Arch Rock entrance, first stop being The Cascades. We were early enough to enjoy Cathederal beach and the chapel to ourselves. From here on it was follow the crowd and fight for a car park. The park service has been clever in one regard in that certain parts of the park can only be accessed via bus so that cuts down on the traffic in these areas. In fact you can park in the middle of the Canyon Floor and travel by bus to all the major viewing sites for free. Our next stop was Mirror Lake however we never actually got there as we took the wrong  trail. But we did stumble upon a Mountain Garter Snake on this enjoyable walk to the fallen rocks. After a late lunch we hiked into Yosemite Falls to view both the lower and upper falls and then headed up Big Oak Flat Road for a different view of the Canyon and to escape the crowds. Today I think we got the mix right - spent about 6 hours walking/ hiking,  2 hours driving and 1 hour eating. Followed by about 4 hours soaking in the spa, and sitting on the hotel balcony relaxing. Have really enjoyed Yosemine National Park and how much awesome that is crammed into such a small area. Only regret being unable to capture the wonder and splender of the park in photos. Next stop is San Francisco.


San Francisco

2014-04-13

Today we had a leisurely drive down Highway 140 onto Hwy 99 and eventually 580 into San Francisco. The first 1.5 hours was a real treat snaking down through the valley parallel to the Merced River, eventually parting company at Briceberg and then freeways all the way into Frisco. We got excited driving in over what we thought was the Golden Gate. Found out later that we actually came in via the Bay Bridge and the Golden Gate is further west. We found a handy motel right in the heart of Fisherman's Wharf and in walking distance to all the local ferry wharves and Cable Cars at the front door. Our motel is roughly mid point between the Bay and Golden Gate bridges. First set back being that as it is Spring Break all the Alcatraz walking tours are fully booked through till Monday April 21. We have booked a ferry tour for tomorrow that circles the island with commentary and on a pending list for the actual prison tour. Guess time and fate will decide. On the positive side tonight we enjoyed a really, really good seafood meal at Alioto's Restaurant. 

Trust you are not getting bored with our daily ramblings. We are certainly enjoying it and looking forward to the new things we are experiencing each day, though have to confess we are over the crowds and queuing, but guess that comes with the territory.

Until next time stay happy!


Golden Gate, Alcatraz & Cable Cars

2014-04-14

Woke to a  foggy bay this morning. We had booked a Golden Gate, Alcatraz tour this morning. Sailed close to the island but no landing. The boat cruise was better than anticipated. The commentary was really good, however although I took a lot of photos, the results were fairly ordinary because of the fog - it is what it is. Back on land we made our way up to Hyde Street to experience a cable car ride. Queued for an hour before heading off up the hillsides of Frisco. By now the sky had cleared and it was a beautiful sunny day. The weather last few days has been magic. Mid 20's each day with cool evenings. Anyway the cable car ride was fantastic. We alighted at Market Street and Joan got to visit a Bloomingdales store. We then walked to China Town and 2 cable car rides later we were back at our motel. Really enjoy riding the boards of this type of transport. Probably not so great on a wet day. Forgot to mention Joan picked up a cheap new 'point and shoot' camera in China town. Starting price $190, final price $105.

Anyway back at the motel into the car and off to Lombard Street. Lombard Street is an east–west street in San Francisco. It is famous for having a steep, one-block section that consists of eight tight hairpin turns. I have now driven it. Tried to unsuccessfully to take a photo but resorted to google to illustrate in the attached photos. Then went for a quick drive through the Golden Gate Park before heading across the Golden Gate to try and capture a few good photos of the bridge. You guessed it the fog came in just as we arrived on the north shore. 

Great day, once again topped off by a great meal at Fisherman's wharf. Ah well guess we will have to do it all again tomorrow, though we need to do some domestic duties tomorrow and repackage the bags for our flight to China on Wednesday. Getting really excited now!

Take care. Peter & Joan


Last look at Frisco

2014-04-15

Woke to another foggy morning. Apparently fog is very common in the Bay Area. We thought we had secured an  Alcatraz tour but turned out to be a claytans tour - circled the island twice with detailed commentary but no actual stepping onto the island. It was informative and as the fog had lifted a pleasant sunny morning on the water. As a consolation for not stepping on the island we were also given a 3 hour city sightseeing tour. Once again fairly informative and got to see the Golden Gate from every angle. Firstly from the southern (SF) approach , then the northern side, then a run out to see it from the western side -from Lands End lookout at Point Lobos (water here is the Pacific Ocean). Obviously we had viewed the bridge from the Eastern side earlier in the day from the ferry. 

City tour finished with a run through the Golden Gate Park, Nob Hill, Haight-Ashbury, China Town, run down Market Street and back to Fisherman's Wharf. Collected the car and headed for the Airport Hotel. Decided to move closer to the airport as early start in the morning. Also need to do some laundry so that we start the China portion of the trip with clean clothes. Didn't realize we had to drive past the AT&T stadium to get to the airport and the Giants ( baseball) were playing 1st home game of the season. 14 miles took 2.5 hrs. Eventually got to the motel and clothes laundered and bags repacked. Fell into bed about 11:00pm for 4:00am start. Morning trip to airport and returning the hire car another saga but that can wait till tomorrow's blog.

Post script. If ever staying in SF can highly recommend the Wharf Inn on Mason Street. Old building but best location, really clean rooms, friendly and helpful staff and in walking distance to most attractions and the best food!!


San Francisco - Vancouver - Beijing

2014-04-17

Today finally arrived and we are off to China, but not without its dramas. Last night on the way back to the Motel we called into the San Francisco International Airport to make sure we could find the rental car return area. No dramas all looked straightforward and normal. 4:00am rolled around pretty quickly this morning and off to the airport. Got to the rental return but no Advantage Car Rentals - too early for other rentals to be manned, no one around, no phone = minor panic. Drove around and found Mexican security guard, no help. Dropped Joan and luggage at departures and headed off into the darkness again. No luck! Back to the Hetz agency, found employee, thinks Advantage on old airport road but vague about address on other side of freeway. Ended up abandoning the vehicle in the short term car park, with keys in the fuel cap. Found Joan and we rushed through check in, security, customs and arrived at the gate with 10 minutes to spare. Used public phone to contact Advantage (our el cheapo car rental), no answer, too early. Quickly penned email to explain situation and car location and then on the plane and off to Vancouver. Phoned Advantage from Vancouver and all good - just some additional parking charges. 

Plane left Vancouver on time. Really good 11 hour flight and I finally got to watch Mandela - Long walk to Freedom. Not at any of the cinema's in northern BC but available on Air Canada. Arrived in Beijing on time and cleared the airport processes in about 40 minutes; not bad. Found our transfer connection amongst the horde of sign waving service providers, who deposited us at the Ritz Carlton, our home for the next 3 days - not bad digs! The air quality though is disturbing and something we will need to live with and come to grips with over the next few days.

The next drama - NO FACEBOOK! Quick check on Google reveals that China has blocked Facebook so not sure if this will get posted or not (should do as loaded via Get Jealous), but in the Facebook world we will not exist for the next 12 days.


Beijing day 1

2014-04-18

Had a good sleep and no jet lag. We assembled in the foyer of the Ritz Carlton at 8:30am and met our fellow tour group travellers. 27 in total. Mainly American and some other Australians. The first stop was Tiananmen Square, which also contains Moa Zedong's mausoleum as well as a monument to the Peoples Heros and over 300 years of history. We all remember the lone individual blocking the path of the tank. The square was packed; wall to wall people. Many tourists but also many Chinese visitors lined up to view Moa. We walked through the square and through Tiananmen Gate also known as the Gate of Heavenly Peace to enter the Forbidden City, the former Imperial Palace for over 500 years. Now it is the Palace Museum. 

After lunch, our first authentic Chinese meal, we once again got to experience the Beijing traffic. It appears to be peak hour 24/7, constant chaos and at all times only one incident away from permanent gridlock, but the traffic does flow and apparently they do have a system. Size matters! Priority is given to the largest vehicle, creating a hierarchy, buses, trucks, cars, motor cycles, cycles and unfortunately people are the bottom of the food chain, making it very dangerous for pedestrians.

We made our way to the Temple of Heaven surrounded by parkland and pine trees. It is here that the local residience come to exercise, dance and play cards. The air quality restricts the amount of jogging but the park was full of people of all ages, young and old working out or card playing.

This long day was concluded with a welcoming dinner, at a resturant near Tiananmen Square that specializes in Peking Duck. Excellent food and it would appear we have a good tour group for this China holiday. Kevin, our tour director also comes across as confident, organized and knowledgable.


Beijing Day 2

2014-04-19

Exciting day today. Ticked another item off the bucket list - the Great Wall of China. This morning we travelled for 2 hours by bus to the Badaling section of the wall. It was a cool and overcast morning with sprinkling rain. We were a little disappointed with the weather which proved to be a blessing in disguise. Once again what we thought to be hordes of people. For some reason I thought the wall would be reasonablably level and easy to walk. I was wrong. The wall was amazing but daunting at the prospect of actually climbing it. It was extremely steep and one of the most strenuous things I have done for many years. We only had 2 hours so we walked for 1 hour getting us as far as the 4th tower before turning around. It was probably only about 1 Mile, but we were extremely proud of ourselves that we made it that far. The return trip only took. 20 minutes giving us plenty of time to buy some souvenirs. 

The weather was a blessing as it turned out as if it had been a warm clear day we would have shared the experience with about 4 times the number we did, meaning it would have taken longer to get there, spent less time there and be totally crushed during the whole experience. Also if it had been hot we probably would have collapsed at about the first tower. Good result all round.

It was a rewarding experience. One of our elderly tour group members said it was the greatest achievement of his life to actually walk on the wall. Another elderly member just said "I thought we were going to the Great Barrier Reef".

From here we headed back to Beijing, calling into the 2008 Olympic village, on the way. From here we were whisked to The Red Theatre for a high energy performance of " The legend of KungFu".

Following this energentic and thoroughly entertaining showit was off for dinner at a Cantonese resturant. Another fine meal, finally being dropped back at the motel about 9:30pm exhausted but still excited with all we had done and seen today. Need to pack in the morning as after visiting the pandas at the Beijing zoo we fly to Xian for the next leg of this wonderful journey.


China - Beijing Day 3

2014-04-20

Packed our bags this morning as we fly to Xi'an this evening. First stop today was the Beijing Zoo to see the giant panda's. We are staring to get accustomed to large crowds but this morning was something else. Sunny morning and the number of people and the resulting human crush at the pander enclosure was unbelievable, bordering on dangerous. The giant panders were out and eating. It was an incredible experience but we missed seeing the baby panders as the pavilion was pandemonium. In was impossible to control your own space and movement and the pushing and resulting crush was becoming a concern so we got out of there. 

From the zoo we went to a silk carpet warehouse where we were provided with a carpet weaving session and an opportunity to buy some rugs. Enjoyed the presentation but passed on the rugs. 

Lunch time was a real treat and the best food so far. The bus took us to the  Lingdang Hutong, a historic residential neighbourhood, where we were transferred to rickshaws to navigate the narrow back streets to a local house. Our table was set up in a bedroom and we ate the food prepared by the family. It was a real treat and incredibly tasty. 

The day was not over yet. We then visited a local supermarket for a guided tour of the meats, poultry, spices and vegetables typically used and cooked in Chinese households. From here we walked to Bell Tower were we were treated to a tea ceremony. Very educational and informative. Well worth their while as most of us purchased souvenirs here. Speaking of souvenirs on the walk back to the bus I scored a bargain - a $5 Rolex watch!!!

Currently on the plane flying to Xa'in. All good so far!


China Tour Day 4 - Xi'an

2014-04-21

We woke this morning to rain. However this was not an issue as we visited the Terracotta Warriors just outside the city. Three digging pits, all under cover. What an amazing experience. I had preconceptions of what we would see but when we walked through the  door of pit 1 it completely exceeded my expectations and blew us away. Bonus being it was not too crowded and we could stroll around unimpeded and take it all in. There are 3 pits in total and we spent 2 hours enjoying this remarkable but surprisingly so far unexplained archeology site. We also met one of the farmers that discovered this site whilst digging a well and obtained his signature on our souvenir booklet.

If we thought Beijing driving was dangerous; Xi'an put dangerous at an entirely new level. Firstly there appears to be no rules and add the element of rain our bus driver really earnt his wages and proved his skill. 

For lunch today we were treated to a dumpling banquet - 16 courses of dumplings all washed down with Chinese firewater. After lunch it was off to the Big Wild Goose Pogoda, one of the holiest Buddhist temples in China at the Da Ci'en temple (7 th Century). This was followed by a calligraphy lesson. Back to the hotel for a quick shower and change of clothes. 

For dinner we were treated to another scrumptious 7 course meal followed by a Tang Dynasty cultural performance featuring, music, folk dance and beautiful coloured silk costumes of the era (618 - 907 AD).

Another big and late day. Bus dropped us back at the Hilton Hotel just after 10:00pm. Goods news was it had stopped raining and forecast for tomorrow is fine.


China Holiday Day 5 - Shanghai

2014-04-22

Woke to a sunny day this morning and on the bus by 8:30am to do a tour of the city wall. Our local guide, Tiger, provided a commentary on the strategies and functionality of the wall, the gate towers, corner towers, the moat, as well as the drum and bell towers. Amazing that the logic and design is identical to many of the walled cities we visited in the UK and Europe; how civilizations in different parts of the world came up with the same solution/design to protect their people, resulting in cities evolving in a similar layout although on opposite sides of the globe.

After the wall walk we visited a Jade factory for a lesson on grading and valuing jade, as well as the significance of Jade to the Chinese people. This was naturally followed by the invite to view and purchase any items we liked. It was like leading lambs to the slaughter. I think everyone in the group made an investment or purchased gifts for family or friends at home.

From here it was off to the airport for a flight to the next leg of this China tour - the River Cruise.

Unfortunately this is our last blog for this holiday as Joan and I will not be proceeding any further with the tour. We are currently on a flight to Shanghai  to make a connection home to Australia. My mum's health is failing and we felt the need to be with her and the family at this time. Hopefully we will get back to China one day to complete this trek. An incredible and fascinating country.

Peter and Joan 


Back in Australia

2014-05-23 to 2014-05-25

Having spent the last 2 years in Canada it is exciting to be back in Australia, and now to be settled in Brisbane. Work has me based in Brisbane for now and although over the years we have visited Brisbane often for work and the occasional show we have never lived here or got to know the place, so over the coming months we are going to rectify this gap.

We have settled in New Farm right on the Brisbane River. After the first weekend here I think we are going to enjoy Brisbane. It was great on Friday night to walk 1 block from home and have a dozen little restaurants/bars to choose from. Settled on Thai and set the bar high for future date nights. Saturday we took a run to Kilcoy to visit Joan's dad. He took us to Mount Mee for the views and a great lunch at Birches Restaurant. 

Sunday we drove to the lookout at Mount Coot-tha to see Brisbane from the other side of town. We also strolled around the Botanical Gardens and visited the Thomas Brisbane Planetarium.

Wednesday is the first State of Orgin game for 2014 - go THE BLUES!!!!!


Whale watching Moreton Bay

2014-08-02

Had a fantastic day on the waters of Moreton Bay whale watching off the northern tip of Moreton Island as a guest of Brisbane Whale Watching's catamaran 'Eye-Spy'. Left from Redcliffe, birthplace of the Bee Gees. Just over an hour later we were amongst a number of Humpback pods. Went a little overboard with the photos, capturing plenty of splashes but only 1 breach. We were spoilt though with lots of flippers, flukes(tails), fins, bellies and spyhopping (poking heads out of the water having a look around). A professional outfit. Will definitely do again.


Week 1 - 2015 Caravan Trip

2015-05-17 to 2015-05-26

We have been on the road a week now and are really enjoying this transition from working life to grey nomad. I am sitting in the annex of our van at Skennars Head, sun shining and time to capture the last week's activities. We arrived at Hinterland Caravan early last Tuesday morning and spent the morning being acqainted with our new van and being inducted into the does and don'ts of caravanning. Also had a reversing camera installed and Hinterland extracted some more money out of us for all these little other accessories that we had to have. Then onto the road and off to Tallebungera Caravan park. A bit nerve wracking first time on the road in traffic made worse by the GPS that insisted on taking us the shortest route via narrow backstreets, which included a hill climb and a downhill narrow winding racetrack. First lesson learnt - don't trust the GPS. Wednesday was a mad day of shopping getting the initial food shopping out of the way and buying all the must haves off the must have list. By days end we had a 2kVA generator, Engel fridge, annex matting and towing mirrors.Thursday we headed for Somerset Dam to spend some tme with Joan's dad , who lives at Kilcoy, before heading off on our adventure. After a few disagreements with the GPS and some lovely back country roads we arrived safely. Very windy on arrival and a big surprise when friends Denis and Di from Bouldercombe turned up to check out the van and provide support and advice for our maiden voyage. Friday and Saturday spent with Martin and Denis & Di. Sunday had us travelling from Somerset to Ballina. Uneventful and an enjoyable run. Checked into the Ballina Headlands holiday park, Skennars Head near Ballina. Yesterday a little more shopping - table and chairs for the annex, shadecloth side for the annex and a clothes line. That is the end of the list of must haves and accessories, so trust we can now stop spending and start exploring. Really looking forward to the remainder of this week as we have family and a number of friends in this area that we are planning to catch up with and spend time with. Will close for now as another first is planned for this morning; launching the kayak into Lake Ainsworth.Stay safe and happy. Will post another update next week.


Family, friends and lessons learnt so far

2015-05-27 to 2015-05-30

Had a great week in Ballina last week, catching up with old friends and family as well as enjoying the environs of Ballina, Byron Bay and Lennox Head. Tuesday was a milestone day, launching the kayak onto Lake Ainsworth. Had a great afternoon mastering the kayak. Expecting a lot of fun and enjoyment from this craft in the future.
Tuesday evening we caught up with Doug and Lyn, friends we had not seen for 33 years. It was a great night with lots of remIniscing, stories and catchup. It was incredible how quickly we re-acquainted and rebonded. The missing years were quickly accounted for. Wednesday we caught up with Peter and Merl (neighbours from Bouldercombe) also currently on the road. That night we had a meal with Paul & Marianna (my brother & his wife). As always good to catch up with them with the added bonus of an incredible meal at Muoi's Feast in Byron - European Aisian fusion cuisine - can recommend the wicked duck and Joan enjoyed the red curry of barramundi in a claypot. Thursday we caught up with Bert and Fiona (AA collegues - that's Anglo American, not that other wonderful AA organisation), who now live in Ballina. Another really enjoyable and relaxing evening with friends. Thursday afternoon we also made time to look around Byron and visited the Byron Lighthouse and we were rewarded with a sighting of a passing whale. We also enjoyed the sunset watching the paragliders do their thing at Lennox Head. Friday we packed up camp and relocated to Coffs Harbour. Unfortunately it has been overcast and raining since we arrived.
Caravaning lessons learnt this week:
- caravaning neighbours do not like/appreciate late nights or drunken reunions
- as soon as a new camper turns up or as you are packing away, all nearby neighbours are duty bound to interrupt, ask questions and offer advice so that you are distracted and frustrated to the point of committing hari kari.
- not all days are sunny and blue skies. It does rain sometimes
- guess I need to learn how to chill and roll with the punches.
Anyway the sun is trying to push through so we are off to the Big Banana and then Muttonbird Island if the weather permits.
Until next time stay happy and safe.


Coffs Harbour and Crescent Head

2015-05-31 to 2015-06-04

Sunday the weather cleared up and we visited the Big Banana - think my first visit here was about 50 years ago, not long after it was constructed. We then headed off to the marina to explore Muttonbird Island. A good walk and workout but no muttonbirds; they have already headed north. Monday we travelled inland to Dorrigo and spent an incredible day trekking and exploring the Dorrigo National Park Rainforest. First reward was Crystal Shower Falls - a suspension bridge takes you across the front of the falls and a side track takes you into a cavern behind the falls allowing you to look through the veil of the waterfall. A little further down the valley is Tristania Falls. Also worth the walk. A late lunch, meat pies from the Dorrigo Bakery - recommended and a short drive to Dangar falls - also recommended.

Tuesday was another nice day. First stop was Sealy lookout then a run back up the coast to Woolgoolga. We were not dissappointed and rewarded with a passing pod of whales that we watched from the headland as they headed north. After lunch at the Woolgoolga Lake it was back to Coffs Harbour for a liesurely walk around the Botanic Garden. 

Wednesday we packed up camp and headed for Crescent Head - the best beach in Australia (my opinion). Arrived just after lunch to a perfect day and spent the afternoon walking around town, strolling up Little Nobby and the beach. It was a very nostalgic day as this area is very special to me as my childhood annual family Christmas  holiday location. I spent all day boring Joan with facts and stories whilst reminiscing some wonderful teenage years. My parents will never know how special and wonderful this place was to me. I owe them big time. Joan will be able to say the same after a few days of exploring this area with me.


Crescent Head

2015-06-04 to 2015-06-08

We spent last week at Crescent Head. A real trip down memory lane for me. The beauty and the appeal of Crescent is as strong as ever, though on the surface it has changed a lot; more houses, new shops, better roads but in essence it is still the same; vibrant, busy, best beach in Australia, reliable surf, Little Nobby, Big Nobby, the splash, Racecourse Beach and Killick Creek. The van park was almost full plus a full daily compliment of day visitors, paddle boarders, surfers, kayakers and families. The Country Club is still very popular and the beer cold. The biggest surprise is the park has been overrun by rabbits. They are everywhere and not at all concerned about people, wandering through annexes and under the vans. The grandkids would have been very excited trying to catch these critters.

We had a great week walking along the beach, kayaking in Killick Creek, climbing Big Nobby and watching passing pods of whales from Little Nobby. Took a run to South West Rocks, on Friday, calling into Hat Head on the way - think we will spend more time here on a future trip. After a stroll around SW Rocks, we visited the Trial Bay Goal. They have done a fantastic restoration and clean up here. Well worth the visit and much cleaner and more informative than my last visit about 45 years ago. On the homeward trip we stopped at the Smoky Cape Lighthouse and the Captain Cook Lookout. A small detour into Kempsey to do some shopping before getting back to Crescent in time for happy hour.

Monday we broke camp and relocated to Bombah Point in the Myall Lakes National Park. Have to say we are enjoying this location and lifestyle and very pleased with both the car and the van to date. Both have exceeded our expectations and definitely are fit for purpose and well matched.


Myall Lakes, Newcastle and Katoomba

2015-06-11 to 2015-06-19

Although  we had a few wet days at Myall Lakes it was a great stop. We got to spend some time on the water and ironed out our kayaking protocols and skills. We also purchased some cushioned seats to improve the kayak experience. It was also an opportunity to revisit Hawks Nest, Tea Gardens, Seal Rocks, Nabiac, Tuncurry and Forster. All have changed significantly since my childhood - the last time I visited some of these places. Got some good photos at Hole in the Wall, Broughton Island and the tallest tree in NSW. On the Friday we did a run to Nabiac to drive past Nanna Spooner's old house. Did not recognise it when we eventually located it. Also visited the graves of William & Maud Spooner (grandparents), along with Uncle John and Auntie Winnie at Nabiac cemetery. Tried to locate Brown's farm  on the Wallamba River at Darawank, but failed miserably. The once rural area is now suburbia. Had a great lunch and catchup with Cathy (sister-in-law) at Forster Bowls Club.

On Saturday we relocated to Raymond Terrace. Plan here was to get the van serviced (1000 Klm) and to catch up with Annemarie and David. We abandoned the van at Raymond Terrace and spent a few days with Annemarie & David. As always had a great time with this pair and over indulged on the food and drink fronts. Jacq & Rose called in on Sunday, as well. Monday visited the Walka Water Works and Tuesday we walked along the new Memorial Walk at Bar Beach. Wednesday we packed up early and headed to Morisset to get the van serviced. Filled in a day here and as we didn't get the van back till 4:00pm we overnighted at Mannering Park on Lake Macquarie. Beautiful scenery and good van park but be warned if you plan to stay here do not park under trees as the birds absolutely covered my car in shite - 40 minutes to hose and scrub the mess off before packing up Thursday morning.

We are currently in Katoomba, literally a stone 's throw from Echo Point (from Echo Point, Echo Point, Point, Point....). Yesterday was cold and wet. Today was overcast but cleared up this afternoon. Had a great day hiking the Prince Henry Cliff Walk at Katoomba Falls, Echo Point and Leura Cascades. Was disappointed we travelled all this way to find Spooner Lookout and the Giant Stairway were closed due to renovation work being done. Tonight we are planning to do the floodlit walk to Katoomba Falls and the Three Sisters - photos to follow. 


 


Legend of the Three Sisters

2015-06-20

Extract from Blue Mountains Tourist Magazine - Winter 2015

According to Gundungurra Dreaming, three beautiful sisters named Meehni, Wimlah and Gunnedoo once lived with the Gundungurra people in the Jamison Valley.

The maidens were in love with three brothers from the neighbouring nation of the Dharruk people, but marriage was forbidden by tribal law.

The brothers were warriors and decided to take the maidens by force. Tribal war forced the Kuradjuri (clever man) of the Gundungurra people to turn the sisters into stone. He intended to restore them after the danger had passed and the war had ended. Unfortunately, the Kuradjuri (clever man) was killed in the battle and to this day nobody has been able to break the spell and turn the Three Sisters back to their natural form.


Katoomba Winter Magic Festival

2015-06-21

Yesterday was a warm blue sky day in Katoomba. We spent the morning in Lurline Street enjoying the Winter Magic Market and the peace-themed Grand Parade to celebrate the winter solstice. Lots of colourful stalls and diverse food offerings and the parade also embraced colour, creativity and fun. The afternoon was spent trekking more of the Prince Henry Cliff Walk to visit Bridal View Lookout, Pool of Siloam, Gordon's Falls and Gordon Falls Lookout. The walks are getting easier and the steps no so much of a challenge. Unfortunately the floodlit Katoomba falls were not lit again last night so could not experience that but the Three Sisters were, but not sufficiently to capture the spectacle with my digital camera skills, or lack thereof.


Exploring the Blue Mountains

2015-06-22 to 2015-06-25

We have spent the last 4 days exploring the Blue Mountains, trekking around the Jamison and Grose Valleys. It has involved a lot of walking, thousands of sandstone steps, both up and down, some incredible waterfalls, lookouts and vistas. The itinerary included:

Sunday: we started at the top of Katoomba falls and made our way down to Witches Leap and then onto Furber Steps to descend down Orphan Rock, with frequent stops to admire the falls and glimpses of the Three Sisters. We eventually made it down to the Scenic Railway Bottom Station and then spent a couple of hours strolling around the Scenic Walkway (2.5 Klm Boardwalk) including the Cableway and a Coal Mine. We cheated and caught the Scenic Railway from the valley floor back to Katoomba. In the afternoon we drove to Mt Tomah to visit the Blue Mountains Botanic Gardens. Wrong time of year but still impressive.

Monday: the Winter Solistice. Today we went to Wentworth Falls and were greeted with a beautiful cloud covered valley. Again we started at the lookout and then walked down into the valley to the cascades, then along the cliff face; the National Pass (an incredible engineering feat completed early 1900's) to view the falls and the valley. After lunch in Lawson, we drove to Springwood and spent the afternoon at the Norman Lindsay Gallery and Museum, admiring his works and walking around the grounds of his family home.

Tuesday we drove around to Narrow Neck Plateau - the cliff face opposite the Three Sisters and walked till we reached the Castle Walk Head, directly opposite the Three Sisters lookout. We had the whole place to ourselves and felt like we were on top of the world. Thanks for the suggestion Annemarie. It was one of the highlights of our Katoomba stay.

Wednesday - today was spent in the Grose Valley, near Blackheath. First stop was Pulpit Rock , Mt Victoria, but it was nothing like we expected. Nice but not spectacular. A local advised there was two Pulpit Rocks but could not explain why. We made our way back to Blackheath and the spectacular Pulpit Rock and surrounding valley, views and waterfalls. So impressed with today's find we decided to erect an  inukshuk on the highest point - something we had learnt in Canada - just for you Sally. From here we discovered a real hidden treasure - Anvil Rock. 86 klms from Sydney which we could see in the distance. ( more info can be found at https://m.flickr.com/#/photos/blue_mountains_library_-_local_studies/3054502673/) We called into Govetts Leap Brook and Evans Lookout on the way home, but it was getting dark so did not venture to far at this last stop. 

A fantastic day all round. Off to Canberra tomorrow.


Canberra - Australian Capital Territory

2015-06-26 to 2015-06-29

Thursday we had an uneventful and  leisurely drive from Katoomba to Canberra, booking into the Alivia Tourist Park in O'Connor. Friday morning we spent doing a guided tour of the old Parliament House. Very informative and a little nostalgic. The afternoon we spent at the new Parliament House. A very impressive and functional building. Once again the free guided tour was informative and recommended.

On the way back to the park we called into the Saint George Serbian Orthodox Church in Forrest. Joan and I visited this church during the late 1970's and the amazing murals of Biblical scenes and historic murals that cover the walls and line the ceiling of this replica ancient Serbian village church remain exactly as we remember them. Incredible.

We spent Saturday at the Australian War Memorial viewing the Wall of Honor, the grave of the unknown soldier (added since our last visit in the 70's), and partaking in a guided tour of WW1 in the museum. The guided tour was so good we returned on the Sunday to be guided through the museum exhibitions for WW2, Korea and Vietnam. We also spent time in the Research Centre and retrieved military records of my uncle Max and Uncle Cecil O'Connell.

Monday we visited the Royal Australian Mint, the SIEU X Memorial Project in Weston Park and then concluded our Canberra experience with a visit to the National Museum of Australia. Not overly impressed with the architecture but well worth the visit. We only had 3 hours so did not see all the exhibitions and galleries, but certainly enjoyed what we saw.

Back to the coast tomorrow, heading for Victoria and then perhaps Adelaide.


NSW and Victoria coastline

2015-06-30 to 2015-07-06

We have spent the last week traveling down the south coast of NSW and crossing the border into eastern Victoria. We have hugged the coast as much as possible and although we have enjoyed nice days (some overcast but not raining), the nights and early mornings have definitely been cold. Fortunately the van has reverse cycle air conditioning and is well insulated and all in all good sleeping conditions and we are both well rested. The downside being not meeting many people as it is dark by 5:00pm and not inducive to outside living or happy hours so everyone scurries inside before dark and into lockdown warm mode.

Last Tuesday we had an uneventful but very enjoyable drive from Canberra to Batemans Bay down the King Highway through the Currawan State Forest. Glad we were going down as would be a very steep climb going the other way. Once we were settled into the Pleasurelea Tourist Park we took a run out to the Eurobodalla Botanic Gardens, a real surprise and gem of a place displaying local flora and attracting many local birds. Enjoyed it so much we came back the next day to complete some more of the walking tracks. Wednesday we visited a number of the many beach lookouts including Casey's Beach and Guerilla Bay. We had a picnic lunch at Burrewarra Point before heading off to Mogo -  a little hippy, heritage, craft town on the Princes Hwy now surviving with many galleries, craft and coffee shops.

Thursday back on the road to Eden. A fairly hilly and winding track with windy patches, and thanks to our GPS a very steep hill in Moruya. The trip however was broken up by  frequent stops to taste and buy local cheese and other goodies. We 

contributed to the local economy in both Bodalla and Bega. Didn't stop at Corbargo but looked interesting and definitely earmarked for a look next time through this way. We overnighted just out of Eden at the Twofold Bay Van Park. We had a quick tour around Eden and do plan to get back here again in warmer times to visit the whale museum and do some kayaking. As it was very cold and with the weather threatening we decided to move on the next day (Friday), ending up at Lakes Entrance, in Victoria.

We camped at Waters Edge van park just across from the Cunninghame Arm Footbridge. On Saturday we drove to Paynesville and took the short trip as walking passengers on the ferry across to Raymond Island to walk the Koala trail. We were rewarded with not only a good walk but the pleasure of sighting many koalas in the wild. Not that difficult as they are plentiful and not exactly a high energy fast moving marsupial. Sunday we took a walk along 90 Mile Beach, well about 3 miles of it to the man-made entrance to 'the Lakes' and were rewarded with sighting a pod (or is it a rookery) of seals. About 12 in the group sunning themselves on the rock wall. We returned to town via the Cunninghame Circuit walk. That afternoon we visited various lookouts overlooking the Entrance and had a general look around the area. Headed home early to pack up, in preparation for early departure in the morning. The car is due for a service so heading for Geelong, via Melbourne. Not sure yet if will go via the ferry, Mornington Peninsula to Queenscliff or drive around Melbourne via the M1. Will decide on the run tomorrow


Gold and Democracy

2015-07-07 to 2015-07-09

We have spent the last 3 days in Ballarat. We had to abandon the Geelong plan as the local Mazada dealer could not service our car till mid next week. A quick ring around soon had us heading for Ballarat. That solved the ferry versus the M1 dilemma. We  secured a site at the Shady Acres van park on the outskirts of Ballarat and although cold we really enjoyed Ballarat and all it has to offer. We spent all day Tuesday at Sovereign Hill; a heritage village modelled on Ballarat's early goldfields, circa 1850, complete with costumed staff and volunteers portraying the behaviours and prejudices of that time. For our Canadian friends picture Barkersville on a larger scale. The town consists of many eateries, bakeries, hotels, livery stables, blacksmiths, wheelwrights, tin shop, jewellers, clothing stores, a theatre, chinatown, candlworks, mines and much more.

Wednesday morning we visited the Museum of Australian Democracy at Eureka (M.A.D.E) at the Eureka Stockade Memorial Park, the historic site of the 1854 Eureka Stockade. M.A.D.E commemorates the pivotal role of the Stockade in shaping Australia’s democracy. It also has the original Southern Cross flag on display. Late Wednesday afternoon we headed back to Sovereign Hill to experience their Winter Wonderlights and Christmas in July. Once the day had been extinguished and night-fell, the main street was transformed with a light show complete with christmas carols, images on the shopfronts and faux snow falls. We were also treated to a taste of christmas with a mouthwatering 2 course christmas dinner at the Charlie Napier Hotel complete with mulled wine. Good food and good company - Joan.

However the best was kept to last. After dinner we were transported back to late 1854 to witness the story of the Eureka Rebellion; a dramatic battle between gold miners and Government forces at Ballarat on 3 December, 1854. The show is titled "Blood on the Southern Cross", via a sound-and-light spectacular set under the night skies at Sovereign Hill. The show involves no actors – just voices, dazzling sound-and-light effects and a stunning open-air set. Visitors travel across the site on an open aired bus and view much of the action from the re-created Free Trade Hotel on the Eureka Diggings. The story unfolds and climaxes with Government troops carrying out a dawn attack on a band of men who were the first to swear an oath of loyalty on Australian soil to a flag that was not British – the flag of the Southern Cross. Some trivia for our Canadian friends - The flag is reputed to have been designed by a Canadian member of the Ballarat Reform League,Captain Henry Ross. If interested there is a good YouTube video providing an overview of this goldfield spectacular. http://youtu.be/5z6i-KpOZzw

Thursday morning we visited the Ballarat Botanic Gardens and strolled along the Prime Ministers Avenue. Wish we had more time but the car was booked in at 1:00pm so off to the Mazada dealer and then spent the next 3 hours at the library. End result car serviced and we have decided to head to Bendigo next. Until next time take care and stay warm. Forecast for the next few days for most of the eastern Australia does look good - rain, snow and cold snap on the way.


Discovering Bendigo and surrounds

2015-07-10 to 2015-07-12

Bendigo was much larger than we anticipated. As soon as we got established at the Ascot Van Park on the western side of Bendigo and as the sun was shining we made a bee-line for the talking tram to see Bendigo and get our bearings. It was soon obvious there was a lot to see and do. After the tram, the first stop was the Sacred Heart Cathederal, one of the largest cathedrals in Australia. This English Gothic structure is not only built on a hill but has a spire of 86 metres so is very obvious from many locations around Bendigo. The interior is very impressive and the grounds house a number of statutes and grottos. A recent addition is a statute of Saint Mary of the Cross MacKillop.

First up Saturday morning we were back on the tram to repeat the route completed yesterday but this time with a wartime commentary and a little more time at the Tram Depot and Workshop. By the time we got back to the Deborah Gold Mine it was raining, so the next stop was the indoor, Golden Dragon Museum, the house of Loong - the world's oldest Imperial Dragon and Sun Loong the world's longest Imperial Dragon as well as the Chinese heritage of the Bendigo area. Annexed to the museum is the Yi Yuan water gardens as well as the Guan Yin (the Chinese goddess of Mercy) Buddhist Temple. From here we moved onto another functioning Buddhist Chinese place of worship; the heritage-listed Bendigo Joss House Temple in North Bendigo. The main temple here is dedicated to Guan Di, the God of war and prosperity. The Ancestrial Room has a number of tablets and statutes. One statute is a white Budda, Yu Loi Fa, the protector of the very poor. As we were the only visitors at this time, we had an interesting and comprehensive overview of the temple and Chinese culture from the curator. A well worthwhile visit. In the afternoon we continued the Buddhist theme with a drive to Eaglehawk to visit the future site of the Great Stupa of Universal Compasion. This 50 metre high Stupa is work in progress and entirely dependent on donations. It is currently only about 40 % complete, with an expected price tag of $20 million when completed for this 1,000 year engineered structure. It was a wet day and we could not access the construction site but we were able to view many of the holy relics and objects earmarked for the Great Stupa which are currently housed in the Great Stupa Exhibition Centre.

Sunday morning the forecast was rain, sleet, wind etc but was clear blue skies so we started the day with a walk around the Botanic Gardens. Two unusual sights - a Kei Apple tree shaped as a tree cubby-house and a golden pheasant. From here we went to the Bendigo Pottery, the oldest working pottery in Australia and we watched potters at work and made our contribution to the Bendigo local economy. By the time we left here it had started to rain so we spent the remainder of the day touring around the district. After lunching in Castlemaine we moved onto the historic town of Marong. Tomorrow we head for South Australia.


Adelaide and surrounds

2015-07-13 to 2015-07-22

On the Monday morning before leaving Bendigo we called back to the Bendigo Botanical Gardens to capture a photo of the Chinese Golden Pheasant. Got a couple of photos but none did it justice. The day was overcast and a few showers but had a pleasant drive to the South Australian border were we made camp at Bordertown. A couple of surprises here! Firstly on crossing the border we had to dump all our fruit and  vegetables. Not a big deal just unexpected. Then on driving into Bordertown we came across a mob of white kangaroos. Enquires explain that they are a genetic strain of the Western Grey. The next surprise was Hawke House - Bob Hawke was born and spent the first 6 years of his life in Bordertown. Next morning we headed for Adelaide setting up base in Mitcham at Brown Hill Creek. 

Wednesday we visited Windy Point to get our first real look at Adelaide. We spent the afternoon at the State Museum and SA Art Gallery. Thursday we headed up into the Adelaide Hills. First stop being Mount Lofty, then the Botanical Gardens. The remainder of the day was spent in the village of Hahndorf; Australia's oldest surviving German settlement, built by settlers in 1839. Hahndorf retains a strong German flavour with smallgoods, bakeries, pubs, German fare and other gourmet food outlets. A great day and a selection of cheeses and other goodies. Friday we headed south down the Fleurieu Peninsula driving to Victor Harbour and the pleasant surprise of Granite Island and its horse-drawn Tram, penguins, seals and walking tracks. Had a leisurely drive home via McLaren Vale and the Pirramimma Winery. Saturday we thought we better check out some of the churches Adelaide is so famous for. We headed into town. First stop St Xavair Catholic cathederal - it was closed for renovation. Onto St Peter's Cathederal. Enroute we passed Parliament House and a noisey Reclaim Australia rally complete with a strong police contigient. When we eventually got to the cathederal it was opened and impressive. Our caravan park backed onto a reserve and Mt Cullan and we spent late afternoon exploring this area and climbing the hill. We were rewarded with not only a good workout but some impressiv views of Adelaide and photo opportunities.

Sunday with the forecast still predicting rain and overcast weather we decided to pack up and move onto the Barossa Valley. We were immediately presented with a beautiful clear day and some very welcomed sunshine. We settled into a van park in a town called Nuriootpa (pronounced New-ree-oot-pah), or Nuri for short. Aboriginal for 'meeting place'. Sunday afternoon we spent driving around and getting orientated. Did get to visit Mengler Hill Lookout and Sculpture Park at Tanunda and the Lavendar Farm at Lyndoch. This evening first real problem with the van. Could not run 240 volt. Changed leads, changed poles but circuit breaker keep cutting in. Survived the night but -3 deg C in the morning meant we had to get it resolved. We started isolating appliances and GPO's. Finally got power with the washing machine isolated. Not a biggy, we can survive without the WM. Problem solved time to start touring. As I was driving we avoided the wineries. We visited Maggie Beer's farm (Nuri), the Whispering Wall (Williamtown) - a curved dam wall creating an acoustic marvel, the Herbig Family tree (Springton) - a family of 4 lived in this tree for 5 years (1855 -1860). This couple went onto have 16 living children. Next it was the Evans Valley Lookout, before heading home to no power. Problem not resolved at all. Call to OEM and electrican engaged to carry out diagnosis. Eventually found a screw piercing a GPO cable causing the intermittent faults. Cable isolated - problem now solved. Tuesday was wine tasting day. We went on a Barrissa Valley Highlights Bus Tour. Being the only only 2 guests we had had great day. 7 hours of wine tasting and great food with our own private guide. Liz was fantastic and provide a perfect personalised tour and experience for us. An expensive but worth every cent type of day. Not to mention the horde of wine we added to our payload to be enjoyed at the yet to visit locations on the journey home.

Wednesday we ran down to Gawler and did a shopping for the coming weeks and then lunched at Jacobs Creek Winery, visited Seppeltfield winery and then headed back to the van to prepack for early start tomorrow. We have decided to head to Port Augusta and then continue up to Coober Pedy, Ularu, Alice Springs and then start the trek home to Rocky via Mt Isa. In closing, a metric of our trip so far - We have run up 7,900 klm since leaving home 66 days ago.


Port Augusta and north

2015-07-23 to 2015-07-26

After a few arguments with the GPS Thursday morning we were on the road to Port Augusta. A glorious day and beautiful drive through the lush green Clare Valley. Before we knew it we were at Port Pirie and part of an entirely different and contrasting landscape. We stopped here for lunch and enjoyed our first view of the Flinders Ranges. An hour later we were in Port Augusta and settled into the Big 4 Caravan Park. The Water Tower Lookout provided panoramic views of the town, Spencer Gulf and the majestic Flinders Ranges. From here we ventured to the Australian Arid Lands Botanic Garden to view the flora and home of the Memorial Cairn dedicated to Matthew Flinders who visited the area in 1802. The red cliff tops of the Matthew Flinders lookout also provided an excellent platform for more outback landscape photos and first flush of the Sturt Desert Pea.

Friday was a big driving day (541klm), arriving at Coober Pedy late afternoon. It was great to be driving again in the desolate outback. Today we stopped at Pimba (for fuel near Woomera) and Coondambo (for lunch). We also passed a number of salt lakes, all with water in them at this time of year - Pernatty Lagoon, Island Lagoon, Lake Gairdner and Lake Hart. The van park Stuart Range Outback Resort is an indication on how dry this country is. All sites are provided with power but no water connection. Showers are expensed at 20 cents per 2 minutes and drinking water at 20 cents per 40 litres. This isn't a problem as we carry 200 litres and restricting and charging for it definitely conserves this valuable resource and eliminates unnessary wastage and leaking taps and hoses.

The van park also runs local bus tours and we took advantage of this on Saturday. We saw and learnt a lot in the 6 hour adventure. This is truly a unique and special place, inhabited by unique and special people. Population of just over 3000 people with about 70% living underground. Coober Pedy = 'white man hole' in local aboriginal dialect. In many aspects typical of a mining town but added challnges of temperatures often 45 deg C and above, only 130mm average annual rainfall and lunar-like landscape made more eerie by the thousands of mullack heaps silhouetted on the horizon. The tour provided a comprehensive insight of the the town, the inhabitants, their lifestyles and living underground. We were then taken out to the opal fields to view first hand the shafts and open pit mining. From here we were taken to the Breakaways - ancient ocean floor now high and dry and outback landscape at its best (also location for Mad Max movie and Pricilla of the Desert fame). Next stop was the dingo fence  that stretches some 2300klm across SA and into NSW and utilmately QLD. On dusk we headed back into town to visit an underground home, a demonstration underground opal mine and museum. Last stop was the Serbian underground Church before being deposited back at the van park for cold beer and some of Janni's (van park owner) pizza for dinner.

Sunday we revisted the Breakaways to do some more exploring and to attempt to capture more of the beauty and colours of this unique landscape. The moon plains were not as lunar as expected as recent rains have covered the whole area in bright yellow and (some)purple flowers. Other parts remind us of the 'bad lands, near Drumheller in Alberta, Canada. We ventured back into town and had lunch underground at the Desert Cave Hotel, followed by a tour of Faye's historic underground house c/w swimming pool. We visited a local miner and inspected some opal but did not purchase any. We then headed to the underground Catholic Church, St Peter & St Paul and like many before us the last place we visited in Cooper Pedy was Boot Hill, what the locals call the cementry. Amazed at the number of white crosses in comparisopn to marble or stone headstones. Guess not everyone strikes it rich in this town.

Monday on the road again heading for Erldunda; overnight stop before Uluru. We are both enjoying being back in the Territory - great roads 130klm speed limit, unique country side and clear blue sky with sun. Life is good!


Shorts and Tee-shirts

2015-07-27 to 2015-08-02

Had a pleasant and easy drive (no headwind) to Erldunda. Crossed the border into the NT after lunch and immediately found shorts and tee shirt weather. Overnighted at the Desert Oaks Van Park, Erldunda and headed off in anticipation next morning for Yalara, Ayers Rock and the Olgas or more commonly now referred to as Uluru and Kata Tjuta since being handed back to the Anangu (traditional landowners) in 1985. The Anangu manage the park in conjunction with the Federal Government under a 99 year lease agreement

The Lasseter Highway passing through Mt Ebenezer and Curtin Springs is an easy 240klm drive on bitumen road through desert and sand dune country. Was surprised to come across Mt Conner, near Curtin Springs, which could easily be mistaken for Uluru. But nothing prepares you for the first sighting of Uluru as approaching Yalara. It suddenly appears on the horizon and the familiar shape is instantly recognisable. After settling into the Ayers Rock Tourist Resort and familiarising ourselves with Yulara, we joined the other residents in the ritual of watching the sun sego on the Rock. Wednesday we paid our National Park fees and gained the first of 3 days access to the Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park. We spent the morning at the Cultural Centre and as requested by the traditional owners elected not to climb Uluru as it is of 'great spiritual' significance. We did however do the Mala Walk to Kantju Gorge. After lunch we did the Kuniya walk to the Mutitjulu Waterhole. At 6:20pm we attended the customary sunset viewing.On Thursday we drove the 45klm to Kata Tjuta meaning "many heads' and had a great day exploring the dunes, gorges and domes of this area. The full circuit walk of 7.4klm was rated as Grade 4 - difficult but we completed it in just over 4 hours taking in the Valley of the Winds, Karu lookout and Karingana lookout. After lunch we tackled the Walpa Gorge walk - Grade 3, a moderate 2.6klm walk. All in all a really enjoyable worthwhile day. No sunset viewing today. Friday morning, up early and off to the Rock for sunrise. It was good but not as spectacular as the sunset. After breakfast back to the rock for the 10.6klm Uluru base walk. This was enjoyable but not as challenging or exciting as the Olga's experience. Last night at Yulara so we participated in the sunset viewing ritual and captured some more photos and memories. in summary Uluru was a spiritual experience and Kata Tjuta was just spectacular and splendid. 

Saturday we ventured up the Luritja Road to the Watarrka National Park, about 310klm from Yulara staying at the Kings Canyon Resort where we camped next to Paul and Kerry, a couple we first met at Cobber Pedy, then saw at Erldunda and spent a little time with at Yulara. The challenge here was the Kings Canyon Rim walk, a 6klm loop with a very steep climb from the canyon floor to the canyon top. It was a difficult climb but really worth it. We were rewarded with incredible and beautiful views, a maze of weathered sandstone domes, dramatic gorges, clifftops, a garden of Eden and all in all a lot of fun, colour and sights. After lunch and a nap we completed the trifecta by doing the Kathleen Springs Walk and the Kings Creek Walk. A big but very rewarding day. Tomorrow we head for Alice Springs.


Canyons, Gorges, Chasms, Gaps and Cliffs

2015-08-03 to 2015-08-10

Monday we back tracked to Erldundra and then headed further north to Alice Springs. Settled into MacDonnell Range Holiday Park on the outskirts of town. Tuesday we decided to have a rest day and do some domestic, shopping and maintenance duties.

Wednesday we visited the Alice Springs Desert Park on the outskirts of town. Didn't know what to expect here, not knowing if we would stay 1 hour or all day. Delighted to say we spent all day there and what a spectacular place. They have recreated three desert habitats - sand country, desert rivers and woodland with the MacDonnell Ranges as the backdrop. Each of these areas provide excellent examples of native plants and wildlife found across the Central Australian desert. This is supported by friendly and well informed staff. The nocturnal house is brilliant, as is the Nature Theatre, aviaries and the highlight for us being the eagle encounter, having a full hour one-on-one with an eagle and his handler. The day ended on a high with a movie in the big screen theatre - the Changing Heart. A 20 minute show that ends with the screen collapsing displaying the MacDonnell Ranges in all their glory through a massive panoramic clear window. 

Thursday we headed west and visited Standley (yes that's how it is spelt) Chasm. We got there a  little early and had to wait around till almost midday when the sun was overhead to illuminate and present the rock walls in all their colour and beauty. After lunch it was onto Simpsons Gap. A beautiful place bit unfortunately not much water and definitely not enough to go swimming. On the way home we called into Anzac Hill, almost in the centre of town, to get a birds-eye view of the Alice and surrounds.

Friday morning we when east and visited both Emily and Jessie Gaps. Both picturesque, but no water; only dry sandy riverbeds. Both though did provide examples of aboriginal rock paintings. From here we ventured back into town and visited the Alice Springs Historic Telegraph Station. This was well presented and very informative. A bonus being it is set out in a beautiful park nestled next to the Todd River on a spring originally named Alice Springs which was later to replace the name Stuart, the original name of this town. After lunch we had a cultural afternoon visiting the Araleun Cultural Precinct, made up of a number of Art Galleries, including the Albert Namatjira Gallery and the Central Australia museum. 

Saturday we moved camp to Glen Helen Gorge, 138klm west of Alice. It was a leisurely drive with frequent stops to admire the landscape and ranges. One stop we encountered a swarm of bees, so it was a fairly short stop. The next stop gave us our first view of what we were later to discover is named Mt Sonder , subject in many of Albert Namatjira paintings. Some suggest it looks like a lady sleeping. What do you think? We used Glen Helen as a base to explore the west Macdonnells, Hermannsburg and the many waterholes in this desert region.

Saturday afternoon we took the short walk from our campsite to Glen Helen Gorge. A real oasis. From here we drove the 12klm to Ormiston Gorge. Really pretty but not much water. It would be spectacular after rain and when flowing. We did however enjoy the ridge walk, aptly named the Ghost Gum trail which provided elevated views of the gorge and the majestic sunset colours reflected from the gorge walls.

Sunday first stop was Ellery Creek Big Hole. The best swimming hole we have found so far but way too cold. Must come back this way when warmer and camp next to this beautiful clean waterhole. From here we visited Serpentine Gorge.  A little water but not in the same league as Ellery Creek. We were lured to climb the lookout for what promised to be the most spectacular view in Central Australia. We climbed to the top and lets just say it was a good and enjoyable walk. Next stop was only a few kilometres up the road - the Ochre pits. Definitely worth the stop. No effort, bitumen road and paved walk to the creek where you are presented with an array of coloured clays - think Joseph and his coat of many colours. The aboriginals have used this spot for centuries to mine and trade the coloured clay used in personal and ceremonial body painting. In the afternoon Joan went swimming at Glen Helen. It was very cold and a very short swim but she achieved her goal of having a swim this week.

Monday we decided to visit Palm Valley. First stop was Mt Sonder lookout. It was then onto Redbank Gorge. A difficult walk in over riverbed boulders to what would be an extraordinary narrow canyon of gushing water in the wet season but unfortunately just a small pool of water at this time of year. Smoko was at Tyler's Pass Lookout, overlooking Gosse Bluff. After 43 klm of rough unsealed road we arrived at Hermannsburg, the home of Albert Namatjira. Over lunch we discovered Palm Valley was a further 22klm along a serious 4WD track - sign advised to allow 3 hours. Doing the sums deciding not sufficient daylight hours remaining and risk to the car, we abandoned this idea and headed back to base calling into Ellery Creek Big Hole on the return journey for a swim. I ventured in for a very short time but it was too cold to enjoy. Joan sensibly stayed dry.

We have really enjoyed the West MacDonnells and do plan to return again. Next time we think April-May might be appropriate. It is a beautiful area but does involve a lot of driving, hiking, climbing and scrambling over rocks and boulders but have loved every moment of it. Tomorrow we head further north, perhaps as far as the Devil's Marbles. Until next time stay safe and happy.


Heading Home.

2015-08-11 to 2015-08-16

Tuesday we made our way back to Alice Springs, got re-established at the MacDonnell Ranges Van Park and set about restocking the larder, wine cellar and beer fridge for the next sector of our holiday. Wednesday morning with the car fuelled up, audio book on, as is the custom these days for long stretches of road, we headed north towards Devil's Marbles. It was somewhere along this track that it struck us that the holiday was almost over and we were indeed on the way home. With this sobering thought we had a short stop at Wycliff Wells, the UFO capital of Australia, to check the calendar and the map to confirm, yes only 8 more sleeps and we will be at Tieri - Nikki's place.  We pushed onto Devil's Marbles.

Devil's Marbles; what an incredible and unique spot. In the middle of nowhere (104klm south of Tennant Creek) there is a landscape of large onionised boulders. Massive boulders littered around the countryside, some stacked, some broken, many round ones and some looking like large potatoes and others like oversized sweet potatoes. Over the millennia water has reacted with chemicals in this soft rock and their outer skins have peeled off like when one is peeling an onion. The end result is spectacular and we spent sometime exploring, enjoying and photographing this phenomena. Although we had great plans for Devil's Marbles this evening, as it was only mid-afternoon, we decided to venture onto Tennant Creek.

We settled into the Outback Van park in Tennant and then went in search of the lake. We found Lake Mary Anne on the outskirts of town and although a little small, it had water and looked like an ideal spot to do a little paddling. As it was getting late we decided not to get wet but to extend our stay another day and spend all the next day on the lake. To offset not dining under the stars, as planned, at Devil's Marbles we treated ourselves to a surprisingly delicious meal at Annies Restaurant in downtown Tennant Creek. Totally unexpected but definitely recommended if passing through this way.

Thursday morning proved to be dissappointing and expensive. We awoke to a very windy day. Not very pleasant for kayaking on the lake so we reluctantly packed up with the plan of heading to Mount Isa and hopefully better luck at Lake Moondarra. Expensive because a headwind is not the friend of caravaners. Our average fuel consumption whilst towing our 23' 6'' van this trip has been around 16 litres/100klm. This day our average ended up 20.1 litres/100klm. All the more painful with fuel at the Barkly Homestead being dispensed at 188.9 cpl. We also only got as far as Camooweal, just on 200klm short of the Isa due to travelling a little slower to conserve some fuel in the windy conditions. We were rewarded with a pleasant stopover in Camooweal and easy run into the Isa on Friday morning. We were disappointed that there is no camping at Lake Moondarra so we settled on the Sunset Park in town. The afternoon was spent having a look around the Isa. It doesn't take long!

Saturday we woke to a beautiful day, so after some domestics packed lunch and the paddles and headed to Lake Moondarra. Had a glorious day paddling and enjoying the surrounds. Spent about 3.5 hours on the water and in the main had it to ourselves. Got a little crowded mid afternoon as it warmed up but we were spent by then so packed up and let the locals have their fun with their flash ski boats.

We have passed through Mt Isa a number of times but have never really visited the the Isa so we rectified this today (Sunday) by visiting the WWII constructed, but never used, underground hospital, the hospital museum, the Isa Experience display/museum, Outback Gardens and the Mt Isa Lookout. Joan also got the London, Paris, Rome, New York & Mt Isa tee shirt as she has now visited all of these places.

Some closing metrics: To date we have been on the road 90 days, travelled 13,074 klm and consumed 1,980.83 litres of diesel, which is equivalent to 15.15l/100 klm. Most expensive fuel being 210 cpl from, Kings Canyon Resort.


Adventure before Dementia tour underway

2016-08-01 to 2016-08-09

We left Bouldy 7 days ago, with the house in the capable hands of Ash & Mitch and not exactly sure when we will return. We do have a rough plan but only a couple of real commitments over the next 9 to 12 months. With this in mind, we elected to spend the first week with the kids and grandkids. What a great decision that was. An opportunity to spend time with them and be a part of their daily routine for a short time. 

First few days we spent at May Downs with Kath, Tim and the boys. Always plenty to do and Joan really relished the opportunity to be around some horses and help with some mustering and general cattle work. Not sure if we were a help or hinderance but we enjoyed assisting with the weighing, draughting and dipping the steers. We were also able to attend the boys football practice and watch them participate in the Middlemount Horse & Pony Club annual gymkhana. A busy week all round.

Back end of the week we moved onto Tieri to spend the weekend with Nikki, Shaun, the girls and baby Jax. Also a busy household. Friday night we got to enjoy movie night with the girls, Saturday we all travelled back to Middlemount for the Gymkhana, Sunday in between watching the Olympics we managed a trip to the skate park and playground. 

We really enjoyed and appreciated this time with the family. Thanks kids, young and old. Both girls are truly settled, have well behaved, beautiful and respectful children supported by caring and loving partners.  It certainly is a blessing seeing them happy and working hard. And it also makes it easier for us to pack up and live this semi nomadic life even if they cannot comprehend or understand our need and desire to travel, resulting in extended periods of seperation. 

Monday morning after dropping Maddy at school, we repacked, hitched the van up and headed north, via Capella and Belyando Crossing stopping at Cape River camp site mid afternoon, about 90klm south of Charters Towers. It is a free roadside campsite with toilets. We are sharing the area with about 12 other vans. 

It turned out to be a good campsite, though a little road noise through the night. Plan is to have a lazy morning and then head into Charters Towers.

Until next time stay safe and happy.


Westward bound

2016-08-10 to 2016-08-12

After a leisurely drive from  Cape River we arrived and booked into the Outlander Big 4 Van Park in Charters Towers just after lunch Tuesday. Charters Towers is a town we have driven through a number of times but have never stopped. We know very little about it except it was a gold town, it has a number of boarding schools, old buildings and for some unbeknown reason often referred to as 'the world'. Going on the van park, first impressions were positive. A visit to the Information centre and a quick orientation drive around town confirmed enough of interest to keep us busy tomorrow. Back at the van park for happy hour we were provided with free samples of beer and wine by Moorey from the local Enterprise Hotel, who unnecessarily was trying to convince us all on the benefits of alcohol (and the benefits of drinking and eating at his establishment). This was followed by an enjoyable and entertaining whip cracking show by world record whip-cracking holder Nathan 'Whippy' Griggs. Quite a surprising and high energy show.

Wednesday kicked off with a walk around the elegant and grand historic buildings of Charters Towers' CBD. The list included the Stock Exchange Arcade, World Theatre, City Hall, Post Office, Police Station, Zara Clark Museum and the Miner's Cottage. After lunch we did our shopping for the journey westward before heading up to Towers Hill to the lookout and the ruins of the Pyrites Works and 'the World' Reservoir. In the late 1800's Charters Towers was the second largest city in Queensland and was affectionately referred to as "the World". Well that was the explanation we were given! Wednesday evening, the entertainment at the van park included a demonstration of CPR and a general first aid talk by local ambulance officers, followed by the Magpies, a local singing trio. All in all, Charters Towers proved to be a good stopover and excellent van park.

Thursday we moved westward to Hughenden, pulling into the Allen Terry Van Park just after lunch. This area is now known as Dinosaur Country, also encompassing Winton and Richmond. Armed with local maps and a list of Hughenden Hot Spots, provided by the Information centre, we headed for Mt Walker Scenic Lookout, to be surprised by being presented with 6 lookout points providing 360 deg views of Hughenden and surrounds. I know you are curious about the hot spots. The list that we visited were the Federation Rotunda, Wirrila 35' Windmill, Flinders River, Historic Coolabah Tree & Surveyors Peg and last but not least; Mutt - a full  bodied fibreglass replica of a Muttaburrasaurus Dinosaur. If my memory is correct Doug A and I stayed in the hotel in the attached photo, Anzac weekend 1976. 

Friday was a magic and full day spent exploring Porcupine Gorge, 74klm north of Hughenden. The access road, Kennedy Development Road, is littered with fun and educational Points of Interest, which added about an hour to the trip, but a pleasant change from the normal 'explorer slept here' markers. The National Park and Gorge were brilliant, with camp grounds, picnic tables and a number of well placed lookouts to get a full appreciation of the sedimentary rock strata spanning hundred of millions years of geological history on display in this magnificent gorge. A good walk down into the Gorge to be rewarded with clean running water and Pyramid Rock, though we did find the return walk a little more challenging. Had a great afternoon with the whole gorge to ourselves swimming and exploring. Well worth the effort if passing this way. 

The biggest surprise on this trip so far is how green the countryside is. A result of the recent unseasonal rains. The other observation is the contrasting lack of livestock and wildlife. We have seen very few cattle, only a few sheep and no wildlife, except for two small herds of camels. Not sure how the locals classify camels.

The westward journey, continued Saturday with us arriving in Richmond. Suggest there will be more dinosaur tales to follow.

Until next time stay safe and happy.


Richmond & Julia Creek

2016-08-13 to 2016-08-17

Saturday we arrived in Richmond and elected to stay at the Lakeside Van Park as it was located on the banks of Lake Fred Tritton, a man made lake, that looked perfect for kayaking. It turned out to be good choice. Richmond is well known for its dinosaur and marine fossil heritage and we also discovered its moonrocks  The town and surrounding countryside is littered with unique limestone spherical shaped creations referred to by locals as moonrocks. To me, they look like fossilised dinosaur skat.

After visiting the Information centre on Kronosaurus Korner (KK) more about this later, we decided to try our hand at fossil hunting at one of designated fossicking sites outside of town. Found evidence of substantial marine life and shells but nothing to get the palaeontologists excited. Sunday morning we returned to KK to view the dinosaur and marine fossil display. Wow what a display, all explained on self-guided hand-held audio devices. Large predators such as Kronosaurus and Woolungasaurus,  as well as numerous dolphin-like ichthyosaurs, turtles and fish. The display also boasts Australia's best preserved dinosaur skeleton, - 'Minmi', with much of its fossilised skin intact, alongside the Richmond Pliosaur - Australia's best vertebrate fossil and one of the world's best Pliosaur skeletons. This was followed by a visit to the Cambridge Downs Heritage Display  - a replica of the original flagstone rock homestead. To complete the morning, we walked and read the 20 markers making up the Richmond Historical Walk. Richmond has much history but unfortunately very few historical buildings. The historical markers provided old photos and an insight to life in the 1800's and early 1900's but also highlighted the many fires that plagued this community over the years. It would appear almost every building in the Main Street has been burnt down at least once in its history. Unfortunately the cause was not given, so we were left to ponder if it was the work of an arsonist, lack of a fire brigade, wood stoves, grass fires, lighting strikes. Don't know???

Sunday afternoon was spent kayaking and swimming in Lake Fred Tritton. Not a large body of water but clean, cool and enjoyable. Interestingly on the banks of the lake the local community have set up a Bush Tucker garden. Another point of Interest was Dead Man Island. A pile of stones in the middle of the lake is a grave of a stockman buried on the spot where he had been killed, falling from a horse. The grave was preserved when building the lake and ingeniously also now being utilised as a one-hole golf course for keen golfers. The lake side also provides shaded playground facilities, water park, paved walking track and exercise stations. Joan took advantage of these facilities each morning for her daily workout, declaring she could easily live in Richmond, with all that it has to offer.

Monday we decided to stay in Richmond as a layover day to do some washing, catch up on some paperwork and clean the van. We rewarded ourselves with a swim in the lake in the afternoon and a gigantic pub meal that night at the Mud Hut Hotel in town.  

Tuesday we moved onto Julia Creek. A little windy today but still warm. Only a small place (population about 500) with the Tagline 'Gateway to the Gulf'. The information centre is very well set up with a number of audio and visual displays set up in historic railway Fittler cottages. They also house and have on display live fat-tailed dunnarts. No sign of dinosaurs here, the theme appears to be 'water, country and people'. There is also an impressive Spirit of the Light Horse display at the local RSL. A statute of Simpson created from vintage metal objects with a silhouetted backdrop of the Light Horse Brigade. Very impressive! Wednesday was another quite day, just catching our breath and enjoying this new lifestyle. We did unharness the push bikes and take a ride around town. It wasn't very strenuous and didn't take too long!

The next phase of our tour starts tomorrow. We turn north and head into the Gulf country. This is pretty exciting for us as it will be new and unknown territory. Will provide update and commentary first opportunity.

Stay safe and happy.


Gulf country

2016-08-18 to 2016-08-19

Thursday 18th August was a pleasant and uneventful 3 hour north westerly drive from Julia Creek up the Wills Development Road (WDR) until we intersected the Burke Development Road and turned right heading north for Normanton. Only 2 klm after the intersection we came across  the Burke & Wills Roadhouse, our camp for the night. Somewhere along the WDR the dirt changed from black to red soil and the ant hills started to become more prominent. The landscape today was very flat and similar to the last few days however nowhere near as green as experienced along the Flinders Highway. The only significant landmark today was Sedan Dip. The Camp Draft & Rodeo grounds on the banks of the Cloncurry River already had competitors and campers setting up in preparation for the weekend camp draft, race meeting, rodeo and  gymkhana. We could have stopped but unsure about possible rain and as it wouldn't be a good spot to get stuck we elected to push on.

After a quiet night at Burke &Wills we pushed onto Normanton arriving at lunch time. Normanton appears to be a neat, quiet little town. It's claim. to fame being the 'Barra' capital of Australia. We settled into the free RV camp on the banks of the Norman River and then did the tourist trek around town. First stop was the Normanton Railway station to check out the historic 'Gulflander' train and the museum. Next it was off to L.E.W. Henry Park to view a life size model of the largest estuarine crocodile ever shot, measuring 8.63m long (28'4"), named 'Krys' The Savannah King. The croc was shot by Kystina Pawlowksi, July 1957 just downstream from the town and not far from where we are camped. That must be why the council officer advised camping at least 50m from the water's edge. Other highlights found included the old goal, Burns Philip Building, town well and the stone pitched gutters in the Main street. Was also surprised the town comprised and supported 3 hotels.

I am sitting here, outside the van, in the morning sun trying to think how I would describe this country/landside to our Canadian friends and I am struggling. How do you describe the dead flat seemingly endless landscape. First thoughts are; think of the tundra and it is similar but entirely different. With some help from a local brochure I offer the following. "The flat scrub 'mulga' country interchanges with open grasslands, which give way to red desert soil". Not sure if that paints a picture or not but it's the best I can plagiarise and I cannot come up with anything better.

I have also included a photo of the ant hills. Not as large here as the NT but just as plentiful. Another observation has been the increase in the number of brolgas and flock size as we travel north. Any way enough rambling for now. Karumba here we come and hopefully plenty of fish and other seafood. Until next time stay safe and happy.


Karumba

2016-08-20 to 2016-08-24

It was a good road and an enjoyable hassle free drive from Normanton. Karumba had a good vibe about it as we drove into the town. This vibe continued when were were allocated our site at the Gulf Country Van Park. The park management were friendly and helpful during registration and the site proved to be large, shady and close to the amenities. It was obvious from our neighbours this was a very relaxed and layback place to be. This feeling was only reinforced over the pursuing days. Did nothing Saturday afternoon except a few emails, some reading and a dip in the pool. Saturday night we ventured to the Sunset Tavern for a brilliant sunset and equally brilliant seafood dinner. Sunday was also a lazy day, freshly cooked Endeavour prawns for lunch and some locally caught King Salmon fish for dinner. The only real activity for the day was a mid afternoon swim. Finished the day off having happy hour on the beach watching another scarlet sunset. Ah, Joan did do a couple of kilometres lap swimming at the public pool, this morning.

Monday thought it was time to check out the local attractions so first stop was the Les Wilson Barramundi Discovery Centre, a hatchery for the Southern Gulf Strain of Barramundi. An interesting  tour and explanation  of the life cycle of a Barra and the workings of this local government hatchery. Also learnt that barramundi is an aboriginal word meaning 'big scale fish'. We had another half kilo of freshly cooked prawns for lunch again today. After lunch we walked along the wharves on the banks of the Norman River to Sunderland Park, location of an unusual Cenotaph; a granite rock representing a slouch hat. Sunderland flying boats operated from this spot during WWII. Also learnt that Karumba is an aboriginal word meaning 'spirit of an old man', which I think aptly sums up the peace and tranquility of this town. Finished the day off with another rememberable happy hour and sunset perched on Karumba Point beach.

Started Tuesday with an eight kilometres round-trip walk before breakfast. The rest of the day was pretty layback, with the now customary prawns for lunch and a little grocery shopping in the afternoon followed by a visit to the 'famous' Animal Bar at the Karumba Lodge Hotel. The bar may have some history but these days fairly tame and more of a grey nomad watering hole. Wednesday was more of the same. Opportunity to catch up on some reading, a swim after lunch and some preliminary packing in preparation for tomorrow. We finished the day off with a serve of fish and chips from Ash's World Famous Fish & Chips. Not sure how they acquired the name but certainly enjoyed the King Salmon, they served. King Salmon is now among my favourite fish choices.

We plan to head off tomorrow and not too sure where we will stop. We are really going to miss the fresh seafood, especially the daily serve of prawns. There is every possibility we will be off the grid for a few days so until next time stay safe and happy.


A Hidden Gem

2016-08-25 to 2016-08-26

An easy 1 hour drive south east of Karumba, backtracking through Normanton revealed a real hidden gem in the Leichhardt Lagoon. We spent Thursday afternoon and overnight camp on the shores of this oasis. Good shady camp spot on the waters edge with an abundance of bird life and numerous warning of crocodiles, but no sightings. Many photo opportunities and extremely relaxing listening to the chirping and watching the daily routine of the birds on the lagoon. It was even  nostalgic hearing the trumpeting of departing and arriving brolgas. 

It quietened down fairly quickly after sunset and then we were inundated with tiny insects. We bunkered down and turned off all the interior lights to watch a DVD. The morning view from the van reinforces why we love this lifestyle. Birdwatching whilst having breakfast in the sun makes a good start to new day.

We took our time breaking camp but eventually set out mid-morning heading for Croydon. We stopped mid way at Black Bull Siding for smoko. On arriving in Croydon we drove the 4klm out to Lake Belmore, but not a lot of water so we headed back into town for lunch. Over lunch we decided to push onto Georgetown, another 140 klm along the track. Pulled into Cumberland Dam and the historic Cumberland Mine Chimney; 20klm from town. Took a few photos and although a free camp area elected to spend next few days with power. We arrived and secured a powered site at the Goldfields Van Park, Georgetown late afternoon. Looks like we are going to look around and experience Georgetown for the next few days. 

Take care and stay happy. 


Georgetown & Undara Lava Experience

2016-08-27 to 2016-08-30

Ended up having a two night stay in Georgetown. Quiet little town and an opportunity to catch up on washing and general housekeeping. Joan debugged the screens and interior of the van. Did some grocery shopping and swam in the local pool. The pool had free admittance to all town folk and visitors alike.  Great  initiative for a small town, population 300. 

Since turning left at Normington and heading east we have been driving into a headwind. Sunday was no exception. We had a short stop at Mount Surprise before pushing onto Undara Lodge on the boundary of the Undara Lave Tubes National Park. Good news being no wind at Undara. We had a large powered site in a bush setting. Access to the park and the lava tubes is controlled and all visitors must be accompanied by an accredited guide. To this end we booked our tour for 10:30am Monday. Had a quiet afternoon swimming and a leisurely 1.5 hour return hike to Atkinson's Lookout. Not a lot to see but a good walk.
 
I really enjoyed the Lava Tubes visit yesterday and it only reinforces how much I  still have to learn about Australia. It was a very informative experience as I truly did not know these tubes existed and that we had so many extinct volcanoes in our back yard. The science behind the tubes is extraordinary but logical and simple once explained. Think of an emptying garden hose. The resultant caves are splendid. The Kalkani Crater was also a great experience. A perfectly formed 50m high caldera with a 1,300m walking track around the rim. Unfortunately it is too large to capture in one photograph, on the ground, and the crater is covered with mature trees but does provide excellent views to the many neighbouring volcanoes - Undara, Rangaranga and Commissioner's Gap. There is a small clearing in the bottom centre of the crater which I have assumed to be the 'plug'. Exterior of the crater it is also clear to see the darker green patches of vegetation that have evolved and survived on top of the rivers of lava that flowed from Undara, over this landscape, millions of years ago.  The tube system extends 90klm North and 160klm North East. Not all the tubes have been discovered, nor those identified explored. The roof has collapsed in many places and sink holes are common. For this reason the park is closed and the necessity to have a guided tour.  I have borrowed a photo from the Internet, courtesy of  mntviews.blogspot.com so I can share and you understand my awe in this phenomenal landscape. 

Must also confess my faith in the travelling public has been restored these past few weeks. All the restrooms and bathrooms at the roadside stops, free camps and van parks have been immaculate. A much better standard than that encountered on previous trips. The Savannah Way and Overlander's Way really cater to the travelling public and have set high standards which are being maintained by both operators and visitors.

Today, Tuesday was another quiet day. A Little overcast in the morning but got a load of washing through and did a hike to the Heritage Hut on the Pioneer Track after lunch. Finished our time here with dinner at the Fettler's Iron Pot Bistro. Joan and I both had the grilled barramundi and it was a good choice. Tomorrow we pack up and head a little closer to Cairns, perhaps Innot Hot Springs or close by. We have really enjoyed our experience at Undara. Until next time stay safe and happy.


Smoke on the water and waterfalls

2016-08-31 to 2016-09-02

Arrived at Innot Hot Springs midday Wednesday and elected to stay 2 nights. The attraction here is six pools. Four of them are spring-fed hot mineral water. The pools range from 32 deg C to 45 deg C. The other two pools are 25 deg C plunge pools. Park residents have unlimited access to the pools 24 hours a day. So the expectation is long relaxing periods of soaking in hot water punctuated with short dips in the plunge pools. There are also some other points of interest in the local area so should have plenty of other distractions as well.

In between therapeutic bouts in the pools we did explore. The neighbouring  town is Ravenshoe. A very attractive little town bordering a national park and located on the Atherton Tableland. Its claim to fame being the highest town in Queensland; 920m above sea level. It also boosts the widest single-drop waterfall in Australia - Millstream Falls. This waterfall along with Small Millstream Falls gave me a great opportunity to play with the manual settings on my camera and practice my sharp - soft waterfall techniques. Joan was patient and amused herself doing step ups on local boulders whilst I fiddled with the camera settings. 

Thursday once fully waterlogged we headed for Millaa Millaa. We stopped at Windy Hill enroute to inspect the wind farm commissioned by Stanwell back in 2000. Millaa Millaa is a beautiful little village with a smorgasbord of waterfalls in close proximity. After a great burger for lunch at the Millaa Millaa Hotel we headed off on the waterfall circuit. We visited: Milla Milla, Zillie, Ellinjaa, and Pepina Falls. Once again, Joan amused herself whilst I climbed over rocks and experimented with various settings on the camera. All in all I was pleased with my learnings. 

Besides being totally relaxing the last couple of days has also restored our faith in Australian waterfalls. After visiting Canada we had truly overdosed on beautiful awe inspiring waterfalls (around almost ever corner) and where a little jaded/deflated with what we remembered being on offer in Australia. National pride has now been restored.

Friday morning after two more visited to the hot pools we reluctantly packed up and hit the road. We have just arrived and got set up in Mareeba.

Until next time stay safe and happy.


Mareeba and Cairns

2016-09-03 to 2016-09-07

Didn't have any real expectations or preconceptions of Mareeba. Not having internet at the previous camp we did no research and had no caravan park in mind. We arrived around midday and it was hot and humid. The Information centre was on the way into town so we stopped and picked up the town map and brochures and headed for the Riverside Van Park. It was described as popular and on a good swimming hole. Just what we wanted. Well, it turned out fine but was not what we expected or have experienced in recent times

Mareeba is an agricultural fruit bowl, growing, harvesting and supplying coffee, mangoes, pineapples, papaya, bananas, paw paw, nuts, sugar cane and a whole banquet of other crops. These industries attract a large number of itinerant workers and backpackers. Riverside is home for many of them and the site has morphed into a quasi United Nations settlement with nationalities from all around the world. It was clean and the amenities good but there was no grass, all dirt and the tarpaulin structures with pallet flooring portrayed a refugee camp image.  For those friends that were there, it had a real Katherine Meatworks feel circa 1976. Our concern, being Friday night, it may be party central.  Numbers did grow, fires were lit, music was turned up, drinks flowed and everyone partied hard till 10:00pm and then all went quiet. All in all, our fellow campers were very polite and well behaved. 

There is not a lot to see in Mareeba but we did visit the Skybury Coffee Plantation on the outskirts of town, Coffee Works in Mareeba as well as driving out to Granite Gorge Nature Park. We also spent a good 2 hours wandering through and enjoying the Heritage Walk at Mareeba Heritage Museum. Free admission and a really well presented and interesting collection of displays and local information. 

Sunday we drove down the mountain to Cairns. We have visited here before and not disappointed that it started to rain and has drizzled off and on last few days. This is the first rain we have encountered since leaving Bouldercombe. This Cairns stop was preplanned as we are putting the van in storage here for a short time, while we take a little diversion, bucket-list trip, to Japan. We had the opportunity to book some cheap Jetstar return airfares to Tokyo, so a little change in pace; a holiday from our existing holiday/lifestyle.

Until the next blog, from Tokyo, take care and stay safe


Tokyo

2016-09-08 to 2016-09-09

I had forgotten how much I love flying. The whole airport process, the hours immersed in your own thoughts on the plane whilst getting from point A to point B. The excitement of landing in a new destination. Pleased to say this was a good flight and although an hour late departing Cairns, Jetstar got us into Narita only about 25 minutes late. We were also impressed we got to use and spread out over 3 seats.

Our hotel transfer provider collected us from the customs door and safely dropped us at our Hotel - Villa Fontaine in Ueno. A small room, 16sqm, but all the necessities. Our only window looked directly onto the Tokyo Skytree. Although now Autumn, Tokyo was still warm and humid. Thursday woke to an overcast day and after an American style buffet breakfast in the hotel lobby, we met our guide for today - Masa Hattori. Although we have elected to do a self- guided tour of Japan, mainly by train, we do have 2 full days where local guides will assist with some local knowledge, customs and suggestions. Masa provided an induction into Japanese culture, protocols and history whilst showing us some of the sites and helping us master the subway and navigating Tokyo. It was a great start to our Japan Holiday. Hattori-San took us via subway to:

- Tsukiji Fish Markets.This historic site was planned to be replaced in November 2016 due to a new modern building being required because of global warming and 2020 Tokyo Olymic Games. There are however moves afoot to postpone the relocation.                                              - Kiyosumi Landscape Gardens. We walked around and Masa pointed out the relevant points of interest. We were also lucky enough to come across a wedding couple having photos taken. The bride wearing a formal Kimono.                                                                                   - Edo-Tokyo Museum where we got the full rundown on the Edo Period and the history of Tokyo.                                                                                                                                            -Another short subway trip to Uneo Station (JR) to exchange vouchers for a rail pass and tickets to Hakone.

- Next stop was the Kaminarimon Gate and Buddist Temple and neighbouring Shinto shine. Masa instructed us on the correct protocol for cleansing and praying, which in reality is donating and requesting a wish.
- As the day was drawing to a close and it had started to rain we found a little restaurant/beer house to formally thank Masa and plan our solo excursion for the next day.
- Masa deposited us back at the hotel, where after happy hour we headed out again, alone to find some dinner. Found a nice little restaurant . Long story short I ordered a beef dish that was cooked at the table. Joan ordered beef sashimi.

Friday morning we were on the subway by 8:30 and first stop was Uneo Park, the site of many temples and museums. Joan got to use the competencies she acquired yesterday and made a donation and request to the Shinto gods. Back on the subway and off to Shimbashi where we changed over to the Yurikamome monorail. An unmanned monorail which took us to the Odaiba Kaihin Koen district, a man-made island portraying a futuristic-looking Tokyo and location of Shiokaze Park. The monorail and Daiba provided good viewing of Tokoyo and Rainbow Bridge. Had great noodles and tempura for lunch at the Aqua City food court. Returned on the monorail to Shimbashi Station and then set our sites on the Ginza district. First stop was Nihonbashi Mitisukoshi Department Store. The Harrod's of Tokyo and the oldest department store in Japan. Down the street from here is the Kabuki-za Theatre. We timed it just right to get in for a one scene viewing. We caught the 3rd act of the Matinee that goes for 4.5 hours.The act we caught was 80 minutes only and was explained with the aid of an English language machine. Quite an extravagant play and an enjoyable experience for us. 

We used our recently acquired subway skills and navigated our way home through Tokyo peak hour. Home in time for happy hour, change of clothes then we headed out to experience the Tokyo Skytree. It was a walking/subway experience. Queued and got our tickets and where rocketed to the tempo deck, floor 350. Unfortunately it was now dark and raining but enjoyed the enormity of Tokyo and still struggle to comprehend the equivalent of approximately 75% of Australia's entire population lives in Tokyo. Struggled even further comprehending the lack of traffic, lack of pollution, the cleanness and friendliness of the city and its inhabitants. Anyway we got some photos at the Skytree and headed out to find some dinner. We found this raucous little bar near Kuramae Station. We got a rowdy Friday night welcome from the patrons and staff. This happened every time someone new entered the bar. The place was noisy, smokey but the beer was cold and as it turned out the food was great. Yes. Joan ordered sashimi again. This time it was a selection of fish dishes, which we  both devoured and enjoyed. 

Saturday morning, up early, breakfasted, packed our bags and headed (by subway) to Tokyo station for next stopover, being Hokane. 

Until next time stay safe and happy.


Odawra - Hakone. Mountains, volcanoes and hot springs

2016-09-10 to 2016-09-11

The Shinkansen train only took 37 minutes to get us to Odawara. We quickly located a 'H' bus and started our journey up the narrow mountain road to Hakone-machi. About 40 minutes later we alighted at the Kami Tonosawa bus stop. Then the fun of self guiding kicked in. We could not locate our accommodation. We walked (up hill) for about 20 minutes, nothing gelled, so we revisited the guide and headed back to town. After 3 more revisits to the book we found the illusive stairs and started climbing a forest track. We did well till the track forked but fortuitously a young couple came along and confirmed we only had 150m to go. It was very hot and humid so we were glad to finally check into our ryokan - Ichinoyu Shinkan, a modern day ryokan with traditional values, serving traditional Japanese food. The tradition extents to futon bedding, wearing of yukata robes and public bathrooms. No showering/bathing facilities in your room; all guests utilise the communal hot spring bathrooms. No clothes or towels allowed in the bathing area. Quite an experience and so much protocol and custom. But also so relaxing and something about the ritual that adds to the feeling of wellbeing. Just in case you are wondering men and women had separate bathing areas.
Post script. Reading our guide next day a little more closely, full details and a map was provided to assist in finding the ryokan. Note to self: read the bloody guide properly next time.

The food was also an experience in itself, in shear quantity, variety and taste. The staff explained each dish and provided guidance as to the best accompaniments to maximise flavour and eating enjoyment. And yes we have mastered chop sticks by now.

Sunday we headed further up the forest stairway to find Tonosawa Train station perched on the side of the hill in the dense forest. What an incredible train ride further up the mountain to Gora Station enroute to Lake Ashasi. Back to the train trip. This mountain train zig-zagged it way up. And I mean it zig-zagged. The tracks have dead-end spur lines that the train enters, stops and the driver reverts to the back of the train and switches track. The rear of the train now becomes the front of the train until it climbs to the next spur and this process is repeated until the destination is reached. In Gora we had a quick look around Gora Park, then alighted the Hokan Tozan Cable Car. At Sonzan Station we transferred to the Hakone Ropeway to get even higher to Owakudani. Unfortunately the day was very cloudy with intermittent showers so no spectacular mountain views, but we were rewarded by passing directly over Owakudani - a volcano grater. The name loosely translates as 'The Immense Simmering Valley'. It last erupted 3000 years ago but white steam continues to rise enveloping the surrounding area and leaving a distinct smell of sulphur.

We made our way down to Togendai, on the shores of Lake Ashi and immediately boarded a Pirate Ship and headed to the opposite shore Hakone-Machi in search of this illusive Mount Fuji. After another hearty lunch of noodles we headed to the Hakone Checkpoint and museum. This checkpoint was to protect Edo (present day Tokyo). From here we found ourselves at Observation house. Yes the spot to observe Mount Fuji, but it was covered in cloud. Refer attached photo. We enjoyed a cup of tea hoping the cloud would lift but it didn't and as it was getting late we caught a bus back to the Ryokan in time to enjoy happy hour and another well presented, well received evening meal. 

Only had two days in this high country but feel great. Really relaxed and cleansed mentally and physically. Just what the body ordered after a few hectic days in Tokyo. Tomorrow we head for Kyoto.


Temples, shrines, a Palace, Musuem and Castle.

2016-09-12 to 2016-09-14

Now that we have mastered the rail and subway systems the Shinkansen journey on Monday from Odawara to Kyoto was both enjoyable and relaxing. Having caught a taxi from Hakone we had plenty of time to watch and photograph a number of Shinkansen (high speed trains) zoom through Odawara Station. The only disappointment today was it was still overcast so did not get to see Mount Fuji. Arriving in Kyoto we lunched at Starbucks and then got an early check-in at our Dormy Inn. This gave us a window of opportunity to do a very needed clothes washing and plan the next few days. Just on dusk we hit the streets and wandered around central Kyoto watching locals heading home after work. We also found the Higashi-Honganji Temple. Dinner was in a local restaurant.

Next morning, Tuesday we met our local guide for today; Takeshi Suzuki (Suzuki-San). First stop via local train was the very colourful Fushimi Inari-Taisha Shrine. A famous shrine with thousands of Torii gates of all colours and sizes. From here back on another train and a short walk to the Sanjusangen-do Temple. A 108 metre long temple housing 1 large statute of nnnn plus 1000 smaller statues (Kannons). The craftsmanship of these almost identical Kannons and the smell of burning incense added to the experience. From here we crossed the road for lunch and the spent the next hour at the Museum of Kyoto displaying many Japanese archaeological  items, artworks and documents.

A local bus ride and walk up a steepish hillside had us at Kiyomizudera Temple. Another iconic and famous temple in Kyoto. It was very humid and this is obvious in a couple of photos I am captured in. We also got to see the love shrine and the three waterfalls located inside the temple. The streets leading up to and away from the temple are filled with craft shops and eateries. We made our way back down the hill through these crowded streets and continued walking to the Gion district. Suzuki-San took us to the Visitors Club, a training school for apprentice geisha's where shows are performed each evening providing a selection of traditional arts, tea ceremony and ancient court music. The apprenticeship apparently is 5 years duration. Did not get to see any Geisha's at this time of day so we walked further up to Gion Corner where crowds were starting to gather in anticipation. We ran out of time as we had a tea ceremony booked for 5:00pm so had to move on, yet to see a real life geisha. 

Suzuki-san left us at the tea ceremony. We really enjoyed his guiding and commentary today. It was a great day in Kyoto. After the tea ceremony we made our own way back to Kyoto Station and a late happy hour and dinner at the same restaurant as the previous night.

Wednesday, we self-guided around Kyoto. It turned out to be a very successful, fulfilling and full day. First stop after a short subway trip was the Kyoto Imperial Palace. It was open and we were able to do a free walk through the gardens and around the buildings.  Really beautiful garden and many photo opportunities. From here we walked to Nijo Castle. We stopped midpoint for a coffee and our first McDonald's experience in Japan. Once again the gardens offered many photo opportunities and we were provided access to the interior of the buildings which provided a great insight into the workings, customs and living arrangements of the Shogun and samurai as well as examples of artwork depicted throughout the castle. Another bus ride took us to the Kinkakuji District. After refuelling on a bowl of fried rice we headed for the Kinkakuji Temple, perhaps the most famous temple in Japan. It is also known as the Golden Pavilion. It is an exact replica of the 15th century structure that was burnt down in 1950 and rebuilt in 1955. The stunning gold facade makes an excellent reflection in the mirror pond. We made our way back to the hotel and I headed straight for the hot tub. An hour later I felt refreshed, cleansed and alive. During happy hour Joan advised we had walked 29,000 steps over the last two days. 16,000 on Tuesday and 13,000 on Wednesday. No wonder I needed the hot tub!

For dinner we decided to try somewhere different so we headed for the back allies and found a beer house, also referred to as an Akamaru, in Japan. The beer was cold and the local speciality was skewers. We order an assortment and waited in anticipation. Short story, five skewers each made up of chicken hearts, chicken soft bone, chicken liver, some unknown part of the chicken which I suspect was the parson's nose as it was described as the pope's nose and chicken breast. Let's say it was different and we didn't order seconds.

Anyway currently on the train to Hiroshima. Stay happy, safe and well. 


Hiroshima & Miyajima

2016-09-15 to 2016-09-16

Arrived in Hiroshima midday Thursday and we were immediately challenged with a new transport competency - Streetcars. By the time we got to our Hotel (9 stops from the Rail station) dropped our bags off and then back into town for some lunch we had the streetcar system, charges and payment down pat. After a scrumptious lunch of noodles and oysters (a local speciality) it was time to do the A-Bomb Dome and Peace Park visit. It was definitely a very enlightening and sobering experience, but surprisingly a very uplifting experience as well. First stop was the A-Bomb Dome (basically ground zero for the bomb denotation 8:15am August 6th, 1945). From here we moved onto the Peace Park, encompassing the Peace Clock, the Peace Bell, the Childrens Peace Monument, Flame of Peace, Pond of Peace, Cenotaph for A-Bomb victims and the Peace Memorial Museum. As you would expect all very sombre and sobering but some locals spoke to us and were very positive in their approach and literally hundreds of school children amused us by each saying hello and practising their English. The last item we saw as exiting the museum was US President Barack Obama's message of peace and the paper cranes offered during his historic visit to the atomic-bomb site in May 2016. His message "We have known the agony of war. Let us now find the courage, together, to spread peace, and pursue a world without nuclear weapons.”

Thursday night we had a great tempura meal and cold beer in a little beer house behind the hotel. Got back to the Hotel to see the Hiroshima Carps beat Tokyo in the national baseball league. For the next 2 days all the locals were wearing their red and white Carps uniform to work and around town. The locals really support and love their baseball. Footnote. The Carps local stadium (and sponsor) is called the Mazda Zoom Zoom Stadium. The Mazda factory is also located here but we didn't get time to visit.

Friday we decided to do something more pleasant and headed off early for Miyajima Island. What a day we had. Firstly we caught a train to Miyajima-Guichi Port then changed to a ferry for the island. First surprise was being met by neighbourhood deer on the wharf at the ferry terminal. We headed for a coffee shop and ordered coffee and the owner for some reason took a shine to us Aussie travellers, and not only provided us with the complimentary cold water, but also poured green tea and then went to great lengths to explain Tsukimi - special white spherical dumplings for eating whilst watching a full moon, which she presented to both Joan and I. Got the gist of what she said but googled it when we got home and found "Tsukimi or Otsukim, literally moon-viewing, refers to Japanese festivals honoring the autumn moon, a version of the Mid-Autumn Festival. She also brewed us one of the best milk coffees I have ever had. Anyway back to the island excursion.

The island is famous for the Itsukushima Shrine and its floating Torii gate in the ocean; probably one of the most iconic images of Japan. We made our donations and wishes at the Shrine, took a million photos of the tori gates and then headed off to lunch. Another treat - Okanomiyaki - a savoury pancake made all the more special in this instance because it was topped with fresh local oysters. Yum yum.

After lunch it was time to visit the other main attraction on the island, the holy Mount Misen, the highest peak on Miyajima home of the Munemori Temple and the Mount Misen Observatory. This trek involved catching a Ropeway from Momijidani Station to Kayantai Station and then transferring further up the mountain to Shishiiiwa Station and Observatory. It was a very hazy day so the views were not great but more concerning was we were still about 1 kilometre from the summit and that still involved climbing about another 200 metres almost straight up. We did it and it almost killed me, well I was a ball of sweat but recovered and we headed for home, passing the five storied Pagoda on the way back to the ferry terminal. To get home we descended via the Ropeway, caught a bus to the ferry terminal, caught a ferry back to the mainland, walked to the railway station, caught an electric train back to Hiroshima and travelled via street car on last leg back to the hotel. Felt sorry for our fellow peak hour passengers as I was a few notches past rank on the body odour meter. On top of this Joan advised we tallied 16,800 steps for the day, a lot of them up hill. A quick shower, happy hour and off to another beer house for another scrumptious Japanese meal. Over dinner postmortem confirmed it was a great day.

Fairly quiet day Saturday. Spent the morning doing domestic chores, headed to the rail station late morning to catch the Shinkansen to Osaka. Two subway rides later we located our hotel. Went for a short walk around the neighbourhood, ate tea at a local noodle bar and planned our itinerary for tomorrow. Looks like a fun day. Have to make the most of the next few days. We only have 5 days before heading back to Cairns.

Until next time stay safe, happy and well.


Osaka

2016-09-17 to 2016-09-18

Woke Sunday to rain. Not a big deal as we planned to start the morning with a visit to the Osaka Aquarium. The plan was then to visit a park on the north side of the city, home of an Open-Air Museum of old Japanese Farm Houses, relocated from various regions of Japan. From here the plan was to visit Osaka castle and if we have timed it right, a dusk river cruise through downtown Osaka. 

Three subway rides later we arrived at Asakako Station, leaving a 850m walk to the Aquarium. Arriving at the  aquarium at 9:35am we were surprised by the number of people already queued waiting to gain entry at 10:00am. Perhaps we had not thought this through, being a Sunday. The line up was orderly and on the dot of 10am the ticket windows opened and the queue started moving. Literally thousands were being guided through the turnstiles. We were inside by 10:20am and was astounded at the orderly fashion in which this had been achieved. The aquarium is an eight story building and we were quickly routed to the top floor to start a slow circular descent down a ramp through the cleverly designed tanks and displays. It was really well laid out and signposted, but the most astonishing thing was the behaviour/culture of the people. There was no pushing or shoving. Everyone's personal space was respected and in fact no touching. It was very orderly and in no way claustrophobic as we have experienced in similar circumstances in other countries. It was a great morning resulting in us staying longer than planned and being lunch time by the time we returned to the subway and headed for the park in Ryokuchikoen. It was still raining when we arrived so we decided to have lunch before heading out to the park. 

Fortunately it had stopped raining when we emerged from lunch so we quickly located the park and made a beeline for the folk village. It was still overcast but the rain held off. We really were taken by the park and spent the remainder of the afternoon admiring the folk village and wandering Hattori Ryokucki Park proper. It was after 4:00pm when we got back to the station and almost dark so we abandoned the other plans for the day and found our way back to the hotel. An easy task with the subway system.

The rail and subway systems in Japan make it s easy to get around, and not that expensive. The rail and subway systems crisscross the cites and through the use of Station names in conjunction with Line Names, numbered stations and colour coded trains even country bumpkins like us can get around unaided and relatively efficiently. We have got in the habit of planning our days the night before and use google maps as the reference site. This provides the confidence with our newfound knowledge to get around and even do flying changes and amendments to the plan if time or some other factor comes into play. On top of all this rail staff are super friendly and helpful, stations are clean, including the restrooms, well signposted and trains turn up on time and depart punctually at the allotted time. All of this is amazing when you consider the number of passengers transported daily on these systems. On a couple of occasions we have been referring to maps or timetables and a young person has stopped and asked if we needed assistance. This all adds up to making you feel welcomed and safe.

Can't close without mentioning our evening meal. We found a little beer house in a narrow street just behind our hotel. It was a tapas bar type arrangement and we ordered a swag of dishes to graze from and graze we did. Some of the more memorable dishes were fried lotus root and mince patties, oyster mushrooms with bamboo,  tomato wrapped in bacon,  their miso soup, all washed down with cold beer and Suntory Whiskey.

Today, Monday was a fairly relaxed day travelling to Takayama in the Alps, via Nagoya. Looking forward to experiencing some rural surrounds and staying at another ryokan.

As always stay safe, happy and well.


Takayama

2016-09-19 to 2016-09-21

This trip, weather-wise we have been very fortunate but today, Tuesday, whilst at Takayama in the beautiful Japan Alps Typhoon Malakas has caught up with us and it rained all day.

A little about Takayama. Takayama meaning 'tall mountain' is in the lower reaches of the Japan Alps and is totally surrounded by mountain peaks giving the town a feeling of isolation. We are staying at Oyado Yamakyu, a traditional Japanese-style inn with authentic tatami floors, thick futon bedding, public bathing and prides itself on traditional local home cooking. Thursday night we were presented with what seemed an endless procession of traditional Japanese dishes. At the end of the meal I counted eleven empty plates/bowls in front of me and Joan had a similar number. The scary thing is I think they had already removed some. Breakfast Wednesday was almost a repeat performance. All meals are served the traditional way seated on the floor. 

We did venture out in the morning to both the Riverside and the Jinya-Mae markets but not many stalls operating because of the rain and very few people about. We made our way to the Hida Kokubunji Temple and the three-storied Pagoda, originally constructed in 1615 and rebuilt 1821. It is also home to a large ginkgo tree claimed to be 1200 years old. It is believed that the first snow will arrive soon after the ginkgo leaves fall from this tree. Spent some time walking the back streets looking at stalls and shopfronts but the rain eventually drove us back to the ryokan.

We ventured out for a late lunch and feasted on Hida beef, before strolling through the heritage houses, picking up some souvenirs along the way and stopping off for some saki tasting. Think I will stick with beer and whisky. It was still raining heavy so we once again retreated to the ryokan to soak in the hot bath/tubs. For dinner although it was still raining we went back down the hill into town. The ten minute walk into town takes us over two rivers. Both rivers have risen significantly since this morning and truly 'running a gusher', typical of mountainous areas. Trust they will be down in the morning or we might be having an extended stay. As usual we found a little beer house in a back alley and enjoyed another scrumptious serving of local specialities plus beer. 


Tokyo and home

2016-09-21 to 2016-09-26

Wednesday we woke to a sunny day. Had a relaxed morning and made our way to Takayama Station to catch the express train back to Nagoya en route back to Tokyo. Tomorrow is our last day in Japan as we fly out of Narita Thursday night arriving back in Cairns at 'sparrow fart' Friday.

In Nagoya, back in familiar territory, we organised some lunch before boarding the Shinkansen for the next segment of the train journey. The sky was clear and had high hopes of sighting Mount Fuji as we zoomed towards Tokyo. However it was not to be. The closer we got to Fuji the more cloud appeared on the horizon and the mountains started to disappear in the mist. We arrived in Tokyo, transferred to the now familiar subway and quickly located our hotel just down the road from Shinjuku Station. Once settled into the hotel we did what we do best - locating a place to eat.

Thursday morning, our last day in Japan and the remnants of Typhoon Malakas has followed us to Tokyo. We woke to a very wet morning. After arranging for a late checkout (3:00pm) we decided to head out to the Imperial Palace, as planned. We found the park without any difficulties but abandoned our plans after walking about 2 klm's in the rain and headed back to base. Did a little bit of shopping, had a great lunch at the Sunroute Plaza and then retired back to the room to shower, pack our bags and head for the airport. Caught the 4:10pm Narita Express (NEX) train arriving at Terminal 3 about 5:45pm, after a short walk from Terminal 2. We joined the queues and made our way through seat allocation, security and customs. Enjoyed our last Japanese meal in the food court on the way through. Once airside we did some final souvenir shopping and boarded the plane at 8:15pm departing on time at 8:40pm. Good flight to Cairns arriving at 4:55am Friday, local AEST time. I forgot to mention I picked up a flu last day in Tokyo so felt less than optimum landing in Cairns. To add to the lack of sleep, we had a 3 hour wait for the car to be dropped off, then a 2 hour wait before we could pick the van up and check into Cairns Holiday Park. Anyway 11:00 am rolled around we set the van up turned the aircon on and slept all afternoon. 

It is now Monday, I have successfully passed the flu to Joan. We have had 3 lazy days in Cairns, washing clothes, swimming in the pool, washing clothes, catching up on sleep, washing clothes, doing maintenance on the van and car and finally finishing the backlog of washing. Now back to reality we have the difficult decision of deciding where we head to next. Think we will go for another swim and tackle the big issues later.


Japan Postscript

2016-09-26

Feeling happy and accomplished. We have had an incredible 2 weeks self-guiding around southern Japan by train. We visited Tokyo - Hakone - Kyoto - Hiroshima- Osaka - Takayama - Tokyo. Japan has exceeded all of our expectations. The cleanliness, the reliability and punctuality of their systems, friendliness and willingness of the people to assist and the beauty of the country. This is all the more impressive when you take into to account the population, the number of commuters and visitors moved around the cities and country every day.

Add to this the amazing array of good food, limitless number of quirky beer houses, the comforting sense of feeling safe and the ease of not only finding your way around but actually getting around both city and country environs. They (the Japanese) have certainly done something right. All of their public areas and spaces are clean, there is very little evidence of graffiti and although smoking is still tolerated in most places, including many eating areas we did not see one discarded cigarette butt during the entire trip. 


Paluma Range National Park

2016-09-27 to 2016-09-30

Started Tuesday with a little bit of drama which followed us for most of the day but finished in a good place. We left Cairns this morning heading for the first National Park camping experience this trip. The departure morning routine went smoothly until conducting the checklist prior to breaking camp. The van had lost both 240v and 12v power supply. This was pretty serious as we were planning to 'free camp' the next few days. Carried out basic root cause failure analysis and eventually found the master power switch had been turned off.  Problem solved and on the road heading for Big Crystal Creek camping area located in the Paluma Range National Park, just south of Ingham. As it was a National Park did not stress too much with the GPS and just headed for Ingham. South of Ingham plenty of signs to Little Crystal Creek but nothing for Big Crystal Creek. GPS only confused the issue but eventually found some co-ordinates and retraced our steps and found the correct campsite, and what a surprise, it is not called Paradise Waterhole for nothing. A flat and large camping site, toilet block, cold showers and right next to an incredible swimming hole.

Wednesday was close to a perfect day. Woke to the tranquility of the Australian rain forest, Joan had a grassy, private area to do her morning exercise routine. This was followed by a pre-breakfast swim. After breakfast we ventured a few like kilometres  up the valley to Rockslide; another picture perfect waterfall and rock swimming hole. From here we backtracked and climbed higher to Little Crystal Creek Swimming Hole. We found it about half way up Mt Spec Road on the Paluma Range, but continued onto Paluma another nine winding kilometres up the mountain in search of coffee. Found Paluma, a little village perched on top of this mountain, but no coffee. We admitted defeat and retreated back down to Little Crystal Creek, but by this time it was overrun by other tourists and although very picturesque and inviting, elected not to swim and returned to camp for lunch and nana naps. Spent the remainder of the day swimming in Paradise Waterhole. What a great day. 

Thursday was a repeat of Wednesday except we did not leave Big Crystal Creek. Pre- breakfast swim, pre-lunch swim, nana nap after lunch and then afternoon swim. Big decision for tomorrow is do we stay or go? 

Friday we woke to a clear sunny day. Had the pre-breakfast swim and for reasons still not really clear we decided to pack up and move on. After packing up we went for another swim and once totally refreshed and relaxed hit the road just before lunch. Perhaps one of the underlying reasons we moved on was we were both looking forward to revisiting Horseshoe Bay near Bowen to fulfil a promise we made to ourselves 36 years ago. In 1980 when Nicol was a newborn we were travelling by car from Darwin to Maitland to visit her grandparents when we overnighted at Horseshoe Bay and instantly fell in love with the place. For reasons a little hazy now but my memory suggests a rain depression or pending cyclone forced us to leave next morning to avoid flooded roads and being stranded. When departing we promised we would return one day and get to really enjoy this place. Today is that day.

We arrived late afternoon and although the park is now a resort it still has the same appeal and amenities that we can vagulerly remember. We have secured a site and will now call it home for the next few days.


Horseshoe Bay, Bowen.

2016-10-01 to 2016-10-03

Friday afternoon we arrived at Horseshoe Bay Resort just north of Bowen and were lucky to be allotted a large shady and secluded site at the bottom end of the park. We  have visited Bowen a couple of times over the past 20 years, with the horses, but have never had the time to revisit or stay at Horseshoe Bay since our initial stopover in 1980. 

We have certainly made the most of it this time. We set up camp, parked the car and it is now  Monday and we have only left the park once for a short food shopping excursion. Have spent the whole time swimming, reading, swimming and relaxing. Even got up early Sunday morning to capture the sunrise over the ocean, but I had not done my homework and failed miserably. I was early enough but the sun rose behind Gloucester Island which also had a halo of cloud on this early morning so not the glorious over-the-water sunrise shoots I had envisaged.  In fact photos were a little disappointing and a number of disasters amongst the set taken.

Horseshoe Bay is certainly not a surfing beach, but still a great beach. One of the few that is almost totally in the shade for most of the day, crystal clear water, white sand and great for little kids/grandkids due to the absence of waves and currents. Also great for kayaking. 

Another observation being; the park was almost full when we arrived on Friday, but today being the last day of the school holidays has emptied and we are almost on our own, this afternoon. Could be a great place to spend an October sometime in the future. The only concern being the increased risk of stingers - Irukandji and Box Jellyfish at this time of year.

Anyway time for another swim. We will pack up in the morning and continue south as we have to be in Brisbane week after next to catch up with Joan's Dutch cousin. 

Until next time stay safe and happy. Just a few of my photos from Horseshoe Bay


Bowen - Bouldercombe - Elliott Heads

2016-10-04 to 2016-10-09

Last Tuesday we travelled south from Bowen, overnighting in Sarina before stopping off in Bouldercombe for a couple of days to catch up with friends and attend to some domestic matters. It was great to catch up with Denis & Di, and Mick & Elaine. Joan was also happy to catch up with Julie and spend sometime with Bella (her dog). Our house sitters are doing a great job, with the house and dog both in good shape. Much appreciated Ash & Mitch.

Before heading off Saturday, enroute to Brisbane, we finalised our passage on the Spirit of Tasmania for mid December. Our plan is to spend around 16 weeks exploring the Apple Isle. This has always been part of the grand plan and really looking forward to it. Especially not spending another sultry summer in Rockhampton with seemingly endless +40 deg C days. 

Saturday we drove as far as Elliott Heads and spent a glorious Sunday morning enjoying the beach and walking along the headland. Sunday afternoon turned a little blowy and the wind surfers came out to play and put on a show. Spectacular and colourful.

Tomorrow we pack up and move onto Cotton Tree to catch up with friends, Peter and Merl. Have to be in Brisbane by Friday.


Maroochydore

2016-10-10 to 2016-10-13

I think we are starting to learn how to slow down. We have spent this last week at Cotton Tree Van Park at the mouth of the Maroochy River adjacent to Maroochydore Beach. We have had a relaxing week, swimming, walking and bike riding around Maroochydore, Alexandra Headland and Mooloolaba. Joan also covered a few kilometres 'pounding the walkways' along the beach fronts. We have also explored The Spit and Point Cartwright, home of a modern lighthouse and colourfully  decorated muralled reservoir.

We have also enjoyed some really good seafood this week. The week started with a great feed of prawns and snapper fillets. Another night we went back to the fish market and had a perfectly presented serve of fish and chips. Another highlight this week was catching up with Peter and Merl, friends from Bouldy. We ended up having a great night with them and some of their friends at the Mooloolaba Surf Club. Another great fish dish; this time a red curry.

Tomorrow we head for Brisbane and another change of pace, catching up with family and friends. We are looking forward to catching up with some people we haven't seen for a while and also meeting and spending time with Joan's dutch cousin, Martien. 

Until next time stay safe and happy.


Family, friends and showtime

2016-10-14 to 2016-10-23

Friday we relocated from Cotton Tree to Thorneside in Brisbane. Saturday morning we had arranged to meet Joan's Dutch cousin Martein, holidaying from the UK in Australia. Joan although Facebook friends with Martein, had not previously met. Martein and his partner Stuart had already been here a few weeks and had already visited Cairns, Melbourne and most of the iconic Brisbane sites so we set the GPS for Point Danger and headed for the Gold Coast. Point Danger being the state line between Queensland and NSW. We spent a leisurely day sight seeing, slowly progressing back along the Gold Coast beaches, lunching at Palm Beach Surf Life Saving Club, spent a little time at Surfers Paradise ultimately ending up at the South Point Pier, on the Spit, just before sunset. From here we adjourned to Oxenford to the Australian Outback Spectacular for the 'High Country Legends' show. Thought we would give the visitors a taste of the high country and some Australiana. Not sure if they fully comprehended all of the show but sure they enjoyed the atmosphere, patriotism, steak, cold beer and red wine. All in all had a great day and Joan certainly enjoyed meeting and getting to know her cousin and partner.

Sunday we caught up with Margaret, a colleague and friend, and her husband Andrew for lunch. A perfect day, perfect weather and perfect company. Really enjoyed the relaxed and layback timeout and superb lunch laid on by Margaret. Look forward to repeating this experience again in the future.

Monday, Joan caught up with her friend Tracey and I attended to some domestic and maintenance tasks on the caravan. Tuesday we packed up and relocated to Somerset Dam, close to Joan's dad (Martin) and home for the next week. We caught up with Martin Tuesday afternoon. Wednesday we abandoned the caravan and returned to Brisbane to catch-up with Joan's sister Liz and her husband, Ian who had flown down from Katherine NT to attend the Andre Rieu & his 60 piece Johann Strauss Orchestra show at the Brisbane Exhibition Centre. Second dose of culture in 1 week and what another great night out. It was a full house (estimate 12,000 patrons). It was a lively, colourful show with a variety of waltz numbers and other songs. Andre was supported and accompanied by The Platin Tenors, three female sopranos, the Berlin Comedian Harmonists and an unforgettable finale with the Ipswich Thistle Pipe Band. There was a surprising amount of Australian content (artists and music) including Why I call Australia Home and Waltzing Matilda. After 4 encores the show concluded around 10:45pm.

Thursday we returned with Liz and Ian to Kilcoy and had a great family day with Martin and an enjoyable long lunch at Birches on Mt Mee. Saturday a quiet family day with another long lunch. This time at the Caboolture RSL club. On Saturday Martin, Liz and Ian joined us at Lake Somerset for the day and lunch - not so long and just standard Spooner hamburgers. Late afternoon we ran Liz and Ian into Brisbane for their flight back to Darwin. We had dinner at the Woodford Hotel on the return trip. We enjoyed Sunday with Martin, visiting his friends Joan and Val in Morayfield. By the time we got back to Lake Somerset the weekend crowd has dispersed. Tomorrow we have to decide were we drift to next.


Back in the South Burnett

2016-10-24 to 2016-10-28

After a big week with the family this has been a much quieter and slower paced week. Monday, still at Somerset Dam, was a perfect spring day and we made the most of it kayaking on the dam. Tuesday we packed up and headed north for Bjelke-Peterson Dam near Murgon. We had a brief stop in Nanango. We lived here for about 5 years back in the eighties (1980's). We built a house here, the kids went to the local catholic primary school and I worked at Tarong Power Station. Joan worked for a local fuel distributor. The town has grown but not as much as I would have anticipated in 25 years. Anyway enough of nostalgia, we want to live and enjoy the now, so off to Moffitdale and Bjelke-Petersen dam and what a gem. The dam was being built when we lived in Nanango and only completed just before we left in 1990, so we have never be here and what a surprise. Although the dam is only currently at 39% capacity it is still a picturesque body of water and by the number of boats obviously very popular with the fishermen. Also perfect for kayaking. The caravan sites are also of generous proportions and supported by good clean and modern facilities. 

Although only here 3 days we fell in a routine; Joan would do her morning exercise routine, after breakfast with emails and facebook duties out of the way we would go kayaking for about 2 hours, home for lunch followed by a nanna nap and then afternoon swim before happy hour. It is a hard disciplined life, but someone has to do it. The weather had been perfect so we elected to stay a few more days but were disappointed to find out no vacancies after Friday as the entire park had been booked out by the Toowoomba and Golden West Caravan Club. Guess we will have to find somewhere else to call home for a few days. The next stop will have a difficult time to match this little piece of paradise. 

Note to Nikki and Kath. BP dam definitely worth visiting. Excellent park and well suited for both kids and those that like fishing and shrimp.


Cania Gorge National Park (NP)

2016-10-29 to 2016-11-03

Our base this week has been the Cania Gorge Tourist Retreat bordering on the Cania Gorge NP, near Monto, and all the walking tracks it has to offer. We arrived Saturday afternoon and once setup we drove the 10 klm to Lake Cania to view the Dam and gain access to the Internet. The park is spacious and well set up but no telephone reception or wireless for internet access. The area has had some rain and is green but the dam is below the overflow and the surrounding creeks and gullies are dry. Nevertheless it was immediately obvious we were in for a good week with plenty of water to kayak on, and mountains and gullies to explore on foot thanks to the many walking tracks available in the NP.

Woke to a warm clear blue sky Sunday and immediately set our sights on the Fern Tree Pool and Giant's Chair circuit walk. A 5.6 klm Class 3 walk. It was an enjoyable easy 3 hour walk with great views from Giant's  Chair Lookout. Fern Tree pool would be very rewarding at certain times of the year but currently just a stagnant brown puddle so the much anticipated swim had to wait till we got back to the van park. However the shade and morning tea, which we had carried with us was reward enough. On the way back to the van park we took the 50 metre detour to view Big Foot, a large brown image of a four-toed foot on a white sandstone cliff face.

Monday we continued the hiking theme and we headed off, first up, for Two Storey Cave, another Class 3 walk but only 1.3 klm return, though most of it up hill. Once again a good walk made better by the surprise of King Orchid Crevice. A small parting of the rock face creating an ideal environment for epiphytes. We really enjoyed this little hidden treasure and celebrated by taking a rare 'selfie' of the two of us. We continued onto Two Storey Cave. The bottom cave was not overly impressive but glad I took the effort to climb through the rocks to the higher and larger cave, reportedly home for insectivorous bats. None at home on the day but obvious from the smell and amount of scat. We returned back to the parking area and continued walking over Three Moon Creek to Russell Gully before climbing a moderately steep track to Dragon Cave - a naturally black mural of a 'dragon' highlighted against the white sandstone wall of the cave. From here we continued along the Castle Mountain track for almost a kilometre to reach a steep 200m climb to the Gorge Lookout. I am confused to what actually determines a Gorge. Cania Gorge and surrounds are beautiful but not my picture of a traditional gorge. Gorges to me conjures up memories of Katherine Gorge, Glen Helen Gorge, Ormiston Gorge, Redback Gorge, Serpentine Gorge ......In fact the whole Gorge, Chasm, Gap, Canyon thing confuses me. When in doubt check with Google'. Google advises via the National Geographic site "A gorge is a narrow valley with steep, rocky walls located between hills or mountains. The term comes from the French word gorge, which means throat or neck. A gorge is often smaller than a canyon, although both words are used to describe deep, narrow valleys with a stream or river running along their bottom". Still confused as I have not been able to capture and record a photo of Cania Gorge but what can I say it is still a beautiful part of Queensland.

Tuesday morning involved domestic and maintenance duties around the van. Our new neighbours arrived in time to remind us it was the 1st Tuesday in November and in fact Melbourne Cup day. Yes we did have TV reception thanks to a relayed satellite reception provided by the park. After watching the cup we headed for the lake for an afternoon of kayaking. It was a little windy and the water choppy but we preserved for  just over an hour before retiring to the picnic area for happy hour and an opportunity to check emails and social media.

Tuesday evening a storm passed through followed by a good downpour later in the night. Wednesday presented a dry but little overcast day. We took the opportunity to complete the Dripping Rock and the Overhang walk. There is something therapeutic about walking through the Australian bush, especially when it transforms into a shady, cool, oxygen rich rainforest the day after rain. It was a magic walk with some spectacular sandstone rock formations and colours. There was insufficient rain the previous night to get the creeks flowing but Dripping Rock was dripping but the creek passing under the Overhang was not running but provided a cool, shady spot to enjoy smoko before the return trip. Back at the van park enjoyed a dip in the pool and bird feeding later in the day. The Van Park staff feed a flock of Rainbow Lorikeets each day. A colourful and noisy affair.

Thursday, time to move on, so the usual departure morning pack up and on the road making our way back to Central Queensland, the kids and a short visit home before being Tasmanian bound. We stopped off in Biloela to do some shopping and ran into some friends Jody and Peter. This afternoon we made it as far as Duaringa and it has just stared to rain but don't expect it will develop into anything to get excited about.

Until next time stay happy and safe.


Duaringa, Blackwater & Tieri.

2016-11-04 to 2016-11-07

Friday was a 'satisfaction guaranteed' type of day. For close on 25 years I have travelled Rochampton - Middlemount - Moranbah and Rockhampton - Blackwater - Grasstree numerous times for work and always had a desire to stop and enjoy different points along these routes but never had the time or capacity to fulfil these wants. Friday I completed 3 on this 'to do list'.

1. Many times I have stopped at the rest area in Duaringa to check work emails, respond to emails, voicemails or to dial into teleconferences. Every time I stopped there I would look across and envy the travellers taking advantage of the free camp, pining the day I could join their ranks. Thursday night we camped at the Duaringa free site, used their rest rooms and on Friday morning I watched a traveller sit at my picnic table and check his laptop and catch up on his missed calls. The responding feeling was a true experience of life as we dream it can be. I have read it is experiences like this that empower us to dream big.
2. The International Coal Museum in Blackwater opened in 2008 and although I have always wanted to visited it, I have never found the time or always out of hours when passing by. Friday we stopped and spent 2 hours taking in the many displays, local history and stories of local miners and their families. Also enjoyed the adjoining Japanese gardens. Well worth the gold coin donation entry fee, though unfortunately the down turn in the mining industry and dry weather is sadly reflected in some of the interactive displays not working and the dry condition of the gardens. 
3. Similarly, always wanted to capture a photo of the Bedford Weir but timing or time constraints always prevented me from achieving this. Not on Friday, with van attached we took the time to stop on the causeway and take the much awaited, overdue photo. 

To top it off we got to Tieri (Nikki's place) in time to pick up Maddy and Abbey from school. Friday night was pizza and movie night with the grandkids. Saturday we went exploring and gem panning at Rubyvale. We spent the morning at the Heritage mine with the girls and Jax bagging a few precious gems. Precious to them at least. After lunch we stopped off at Capella to check out the park on the way home. Sunday was another fun day with the girls at the park in the morning, while Jax had a sleep and then we had a marathon session in the local  pool Sunday afternoon. The kids water awareness and enjoyment has certainly increased since last visit. All three love the water and swimming well for their respective ages.

Monday, time to pack up and head for May Downs (Kathy's place).


May Downs and back to Bouldy

2016-11-08 to 2016-11-10

Although it is only a ninety minute drive from Tieri to Maydowns we elected to call into Middlemount on the way through to do some shopping and have some lunch. Turning into Middlemount it was sad to see striking open cut miners picketing at the park. So reminiscent of the early '90's. Sad because when you reflect on all that has been achieved and the benefits the mine and town has given so many people over the past 30 years, the company and workers still fail to achieve harmony for survival and mutual benefit.

May Downs and the surrounds looked very green after recent rain. Though it does seem very hot for this time of year. It was good to catch up with Kath, Tim and the boys. As always a pretty full agenda when visiting here. Tuesday was spent at the yards doing cattle work before retiring to the shade of the house late afternoon for a beer and kicking a football around with the boys. Wednesday morning Joan helped with mustering before some more cattle work at the yards. Wednesday afternoon relief when the boys got home from school and we went swimming in the dam. Great afternoon with the boys in the water and their canoes.

Thursday was a very hot day for our return trip to Bouldercombe. In fact on arriving we were tempted to just keep going. However we honoured our commitments and we do have some preparatory work to do on the van and tug before our much anticipated Tasmania leg of this tour. So we set up camp in our own backyard and waved Ash & Mitch (our house sitters) good-bye as they take time out to visit and enjoy the much cooler environs of the South Island of New Zealand. We will continue south, week after next on their return.


A lot can happen in a month.

2016-11-11 to 2016-12-12

It has been a month since we left May Downs and returned to base, in Bouldercombe. We returned to Bouldercombe to housesit our house while the housesitters took time out to have a NZ holiday. They were away for 10 days giving us plenty of time to catch up with friends and prepare ourselves, van and tug for our trip to Tasmania.

We also both used this time at home to attend to annual medical checkups and associated well being activities. Joan celebrated her birthday. Unfortunately we did not get to spend much time with Denis and Di as they both had different medical issues resulting with both being admitted to hospital in Brisbane. They returned home just before we left with mixed results but both basically on watch and act status.

Ash and Mitch arrived home from New Zealand Sunday 20th November. We packed up and left Monday morning making it as far as Miles on this day. We camped at the Miles Showground; a cheap, clean waypoint. Just out of Miles Tuesday morning Joan received a phone call from Queensland Breastscreen requesting a call back as a result of her recent mammogram.  Although a little concerned we pushed on to Moree and their artesian pools. After a number of phone calls and toing and froing we decided we would continue travelling south with Joan having further tests carried out in Maitland. With this sorted we spent the next 3 days at the Gwydir Carapark & Thermal Pools relaxing getting totally waterlogged spending most of the days and early evenings in one of the 4 hot pools or the larger 'cool' pool. 

Thursday night had us in Singleton and enjoying a great catch up and meal with Deb & Simon Collins, mining colleagues and friends from Middlemount and Dartbrook days. Friday we ventured onto Maitland and left the van at Largs (Greg & Anne's) while we settled into Annemarie & Davids place. As always a great stay with my sister and her husband. Great food, some good wine and even a few drams of single malt whiskey. When not eating, drinking or dining out we got to visit a few places and catch up with relatives and friends. Saturday we visited Nelson Bay, Sunday we visited Lochinvar cemetery (Dad & Mum), then went to Thornton to visit my cousin Cathy Crawford (O'Connell) and her family. It was a great family reunion catching up on events and pouring over old photos. Monday we visited Mrs Farrugia (next door neighbour in Vindin Street). Tuesday caught up with Michael Miller, old school friend and mate. Wednesday Joan had her follow-up appointment with the Diagnostic Imaging provider in Maitland. The rest of the day was spent scanning old family photos and reading Marie's (Mum) diaries. Wednesday night we had a great Japanese meal with Annemarie & David at Nagisa in Newcastle. 

With positive vibes we packed up Thursday morning and drove to Kiama. As we were approaching Kiama, Joan received a call from her doctor advising latest round of tests were still inconclusive so a biopsy would be required. Friday we discussed various plans and options but ultimately decided to postpone the Tasmanian trip for now, return to Rocky, get the tests done and once all the facts are known determine our next steps. Expectation is Joan will get the 'all clear', we get to spend Christmas with the kids and grandkids and then we return to this 'roving retiree' gig.

Once the above was decided we explored some of Kiama to the extent we know we want to return to this area when not so crowded. Sunday we packed up circumnavigated Sydney, found our way to Katoomba, onto Bathurst eventually pulling up in Orange. Monday we had a long drive to Moree via Dubbo, stopping at Wellington Caves (will definitely come back here next time) and Coonamble.

Arrived at Moree just on 5:00 o'clock and we were in the hot springs by 5:30pm. Ended up staying in Moree till Saturday. Very few campers and we just about had the hot spring pools to ourselves. In fact the owners gave us access to their new resort still under construction and the 25 metre undercover Hotsprings pool that will be the draw card for that venue. We had this pool to ourselves for three afternoons and really enjoyed the solitude and relaxation it provided. We made the most of this week in preparation for next week when fate will deal us our cards determining what happens next. We are both positive but I think prepared for whatever the outcome is. On the advice of some back packers, Friday afternoon, we went in search of an artesian bore along Tyrone Road, about 20 minutes out of Moree. We did find it but it didn't quite fit the picture we had imagined so had a quick dip, took a few photos and then scurried back to the van park for happy hour in more familiar surroundings.

Saturday was an easy but long drive back into Queensland pulling up at the now familiar Miles Showgrounds that night. Sunday we made our way to Julie's in Gracemere, after stopping for lunch in Theodore. We set camp up in the Julie's paddock, next to her house. Not sure how long we will be camped here.

Until next time keep the positive vibes flowing.


Didn't see this coming - Time Out.

2016-12-12 to 2017-01-30

Monday December 12th, Joan had a 3:30pm appointment with Dr Nick Palmer to arrange her biopsy, the reason we were back in Rockhampton. We left the meeting expecting the hospital to call with an appointment for the next day or Wednesday. Despite repeated follow ups with the hospital, Thursday afternoon and still no appointment, so Joan contacted Queensland Breastscreen. A biopsy was conducted by them late that same afternoon.

Monday 19th, follow up meeting with Dr Palmer to get the biopsy results at 4:00pm. Despite being prepared neither of us were fully prepared for the verdict of a cancer present in Joan's left breast. The doctor explained the findings and the alternatives available. Joan was very clear on her decision and how she wanted to proceed. It was agreed Wednesday Joan would undergo a full mastectomy of the left breast. In short, admitted to hospital lunchtime Wednesday, out of surgery 5:30pm that afternoon, discharged from hospital just before lunch Friday 23rd. I was amazed at how well Joan handled this both physically and mentally. She and her body had undergone an incredible assault and the wound was obviously painful and would continue to be so for some days after her discharge from hospital, but she remained strong and positive in her resolve.

On the morning of the day of Joan's release I had relocated the caravan from Julie's paddock back to our place in Bouldercombe. We really appreciated the time spent at Julie's but it was now time to retreat and regroup. Conviententily the housesitters (Ash & Mitch) were spending the next 10 days until the New Year away, with family, allowing us to move back home and give Joan a chance to recuperate and come to grips with the changes to her body. Joan continued to amaze me;  she remained positive and worked a little harder each day to get back to pre-surgery condition. Must say Joan handled it much better than me. We had a very quiet Christmas Day, just the two of us. After the normal Christmas morning flurry of phone calls, as predicted, it was a very hot day so we spent most of it inside. We had a great feed of prawns for lunch and spent the afternoon and evening reading, watching movies and reflecting on how lucky we really are, all in the comfort of air conditioning. 

Thursday 29th Joan had a follow up appointment with Dr Palmer. The wound site was healing well and the results were very positive all round, though it will be mid January before the full pathology results will be known. Guess a little more waiting time and the unknown for a little bit longer.

Spent New Year's Eve with the Bouldy crew and welcomed in the new year at the Lion's Park, opposite the hotel. A rather subdued affair but always good to share this annual milestone with friends. Not sure what 2017 will bring, though looking forward to getting back on the road and honing our travelling nomadic lifestyle. All though still in shock with how 2016 finished, the final appraisal still gave 2016 a thumbs up. In summary, first six months a little tumultuous on the work front but with retirement at the end of June came the idealistic privileged lifestyle we had always envisioned as 'roving retirees'. We criss-crossed northern Queensland, wandered down the coast to Brisbane, finding time to spend with family and friends. Even got to take time out for a bucket list item; a 15 day Japan holiday in September. Year end was a jolt back to reality but not before we had spent some quality time with Annemarie & David, and spent time relaxing and rejuvenating in the artesian springs at Moree in NSW.

We spent the first two weeks of 2017 at May Downs with Kathy, Tim and the boys. As usual the pace was pretty full on, but a little warmer than usual and although storms threatened almost daily none eventuated during our stay. Joan got to do a little horse riding and recommenced her exercise program. Friday 6th January, was our 38th wedding anniversary. We celebrated with a surprisingly good asian meal with Kathy and her family at the recently reopened Swag restaurant, in Middlemount.
    
 On Tuesday 10th I relocated the van back to Bouldercombe, staying at Denis and Di's so that I could get the car serviced and some new tyres on the tug. Thursday Joan, Kathy and the boys drove to Hervey Bay, where Nicol, Shaun and family have relocated. After doing some yard work on the Gracemere house, I hooked the van up and joined the rest of the family in Hervey Bay.

Friday and Saturday involved the grandkids enjoying the Hervey Bay water park, time at the beach and parks and lots of time under the sprinkler on the trampoline. Sunday, Kathy and the boys headed home after two big days of the beach, water parks and time with their cousins.

Sunday night we enjoyed a nice meal at Goodies restaurant at Toogoom with Shaun, Nikki and the kids. Monday 16th, Joan had a catch up with Nick Palmer to get results of her surgery biopsy. Outcome was positive but still some decisions to be made. Next round of discussions set for 30th January. We remained at Nikki's till the following Wednesday having a great time with the kids; swimming, bike riding and watching movies. On Monday 23rd it was back to school for the kids with Abbey's first day in Prep and Maddie's starting 2nd grade. 
     
On Wednesday 25th we packed up and headed for Elliot Heads. We had a great Australia Day on the beach and continued this routine for the next 3 days. Took some time out on Saturday to catch up with an ex-Anglo work colleague, Shane O'S. and his wife Shaz. Monday Joan had her appointment with Nick Palmer. It was a good outcome with the next visit not till end of July. It has taken almost eight weeks but we can now resume our travels.
   


Turtles, Dolphins and coloured sand

2017-01-31 to 2017-02-09

On Tuesday night, 31st January we did something we have talked about for 15 years. We visited the Turtle Encounter at Mons Repos just out of Bundaberg and what an incredibly evening. As the arrival and hatching of the turtles cannot be predetermined the ticket provides access from 7:00pm to 2:00am. You turn up and get assigned to a group and then wait to be called up when the rangers find something of interest on the beach. We were lucky and got assembled and led onto the beach just on 8:30pm. For the next hour we witnessed a loggerhead laying her eggs (nesting) in the sand dunes, cover her nest and then return to the sea. This was made even better because normally this would be witnessed by torchlight from the rangers head lamp, but our group was joined by TV veterinarian, Dr Harry Cooper (Better Homes & Gardens) and his film crew complete with portable lighting, so although they got priority and front row we got rewarded with better viewing and photo opportunities. We were further rewarded with also witnessing about 60 flatback hatchlings making the journey from the dunes to the water. This was very special as the rangers set up what they called the 'tunnel of love'. They lined all the spectators up in a parallel line from the dune to the waters edge and then placed five torch holders, me being one of them, legs apart, down the centre of this human line. They then released the hatchlings who darted towards the light making their way through the tunnel of legs to the waters edge, ultimately being picked up and swept away into the night. Whilst this was happening other volunteers had retrieved the recently laid loggerhead eggs for data and relocation purposes, confirming 92 eggs had been laid.

Before leaving Elliott Heads on Thursday we had a very enjoyable catch-up and bar-b-que, Wednesday evening, with Shane O'S and his family, at their beautiful piece of paradise on the outskirts of Bundaberg. Thursday we relocated to Tin Can Bay.

What a gem Tin Can Bay Tourist Park turned out to be. A great site, clean and well organised park, well maintained swimming pool, along with consciousness and friendly owner/managers. During our ten day stay we have experienced Dolphin feeding at Barnacles Dolphin Centre, explored and enjoyed the bay foreshore, visited Inskip Peninsula, Carlo Sand Blow, Lake Poona with its white sand and tea coloured water, walked along Rainbow Beach admiring the Coloured Sands and utilised the many kilometres of bike and walking tracks. Joan even won a meat tray and pizza voucher at the local Country Club. Certainly was a rewarding and enjoyable waypoint on this journey. Will definitely return. Tomorrow we break camp, moving to Boreen Point on Lake Cootharaba to discover what is on offer there. 


Boreen Point

2017-02-11 to 2017-02-17

We were not sure what we would find at Boreen Point or what was on offer. We had visited here one weekend in the mid 1980's with a colleague from Tarong Power Station, but had very little recollection of the place. Driving in Saturday morning (February 11) it was evident Boreen Point was still only a small sleepy village on the shores of Lake Cootharaba. Driving past the Apollonian Hotel some vague memories of enjoying a beer while the kids ran around the shady grass hotel grounds emerged. Joan confirmed the same. We found the campgrounds straight away but had to drive around the lake some distance to find an area to turn around to navigate the tight entry to the park. On driving in, it became obvious why this waypoint is labelled a campground and not a caravan park. It is a beautiful parkland with numerous tracks meandering between shady trees alongside a sandy beach and the shallow waters of the lake. Although the grounds provide 8 powered sites it was immediately obvious that the area is more suited to camping trailers and tents not 30' caravans. We did however with some perseverance safely locate and set the van up amongst the paperbark trees.

Boreen Point is located on the SW shores of Lake Cootharaba . The lake proved to be a very interesting and enjoyable stopover. The lake is approximately 10 km long by 5 km wide but only averages 1.5m in depth, making it ideal for kayaking, paddle boarding, sailing and wind surfing. It is located in the southern end of the Great Sandy National Park; we visited the northern parts of this park last week as part of our Rainbow Beach experience. The lake also forms part of the Noosa River system.

The lake provides great swimming for kids but a little shallow for adults. We did enjoy kayaking the first few days but it proved to be a little windy and choppy towards the end of the week, so not as enjoyable resulting in less time on the water. We did however do a number of walks and enjoyed watching the paddle boarders and wind surfers trying to master their disciplines.

Sunday afternoon we walked the 150m up the hill to the iconic Apollonian Hotel, a colonial homestead building with a great verandah, for the Sunday afternoon session. We missed the music but enjoyed the cold beer and the ambience in the shaded beer garden. All in all, ended up a great week and a good camp. Good clean amenities and a dump point. As it turns out we discovered, the park is currently managed by Debbie & Matt Crimmins from Rockhampton and acquaintances of our Bouldercombe friends. There were a few dramas in extracting the van from the grounds, with some fancy manoeuvres, reversing and close scrapes but succeeded in the end and only one small dent on the rear corner of the van.

On Friday we packed up and travelled the 20 km to the Noosa Caravan Park disconcertedly located in Tewantin, the southern boundary of the Great Sandy National Park.


Tewantin/Noosa

2017-02-17 to 2017-02-22

We found Noosa a mixed bag but certainly enjoyed our stay there, particularly the Noosa Caravan Park and the National Parks. The first oddity was that the Noosa Caravan Park is in fact located in Tewantin, not Noosa, nowhere near the beach. The park however was very well maintained, with very helpful staff and clean amenities. The other bonus was a heated 3.0m deep swimming pool. 

The next oddity was the local council's strategy of providing clear driving directions to Noosa and the CBD (Hasting Street) but ignoring the surrounding areas and locations and bundling them up and referring to them all as "All Other Destinations". First impressions was they really want you to visit their place but not going to help you get any further, or at least not make it easy to find somewhere else.

First afternoon (Friday), we did some shopping, followed by a bike ride to locate the river and hopefully find a bike track leading all the way to the beach. We found the river but did not make it all the way to the beach. Friday night we had fish, chips and a beer at the Marina. Saturday morning we ventured to the iconic Eumundi Markets. It was very colourful and crowded but the general stalls disappointing. Not a great selection of local craft. Most commodities were overpriced with shop prices expected in a market environment. The food market however was great with an array of food aromas and a fantastic selection of dishes and stalls to choose from. On the way home we decided to check out Noosa Main Beach. Failed again; Hastings Street was almost in gridlock, pedestrians everywhere, no parking so we scurried back to the van park and the pool.

Sunday we had a rest day, spending the day washing, cleaning the van and swimming in the pool. Logic being not worth exploring with the weekend crowds. Monday we had a late start but planned to do one of the walks in the Noosa National Park. Failed again, too many people and no parking. This time we retreated to Noosa North Shore with a plan to return to the NP a little earlier next day. Access to North Noosa is via a ferry and it was reasonably deserted other than for a few die hard 4X4 enthusiasts driving on the beach and sand dunes. We had a good walk on a deserted Teewah Beach, had a swim and a picnic lunch. Later that afternoon we went for another bike ride followed by happy hour on the banks of the Noosa River.

Tuesday went to plan. We walked the Coastal Track from the Parks entrance near Noosa's Main Beach skirting the coastline along Laguna Bay, Tea Tree Bay, Dolphin Point, Granite Bay, Picnic Cove, Hell's Gate and down onto the beach at Alexandria Bay. A fantastic walk with many spectacular coastal views and headlands. Calculated distance being 10.8 km, enjoying a swim at either end; Alexandria and Laguna Bays. We had happy hour on this evening at the ferry crossing watching the comings and goings from Noosa North Shore. During drinks we decided we would hire a paddle board next day to determine if that is something we should pursue. 

Wednesday proved too windy for paddle boarding so we went for a walk on the spit, then another relaxing afternoon in the pool, while Joan visited a local hairdresser. Wednesday evening we had a very enjoyable meal at the Tewantin Noosa RSL club. Thursday morning we broke camp and made our way (34 km), to Mudjimba, just north of Maroochydore. 


Mudjimba

2017-02-23 to 2017-03-03

What a gem Mudjimba turned out to be. A small coastal village 10 minutes from Maroochydore and surrounded by a number of service centres, a magnificent beach, kilometres of bicycle and walking tracks and the best campsite we have enjoyed to date, close enough, to hear the waves crashing on the beach.

We arrived and set up camp around lunch time Thursday 23rd February. After lunch we headed across the road to check out the beach. We were not disappointed, and surprised how close we really were to Maroochydore. We were also quite taken by the island just off Mudjimba Beach and because of it's profile assumed it would be called Whale Island. A search of Google proved otherwise but we will continue to refer to it as Whale Island. The correct name is Old Woman Island (also referred to as Mudjimba Island) which is located about one kilometre off the coast and can be clearly seen for miles up and down the coastline. Aboriginal legends abound about the Island. One has it, the Island was the result of an epic battle between two men, Coolum and Ninderry, and a woman called Maroochy. The end result was that Coolum's head was knocked off and ended up in the ocean, creating Mudjimba Island. Mount Coolum, which is seven kilometers to the north, is now flat topped due to the lack of a head! There are various other legends involving Aboriginal women living on the island until old age, hence the "Old Woman" name.

We spent the remainder of Thursday getting orientated and carrying out domestic duties; hunting and gathering food and refreshments.

Friday, Saturday and Sunday were spent bicycle riding and swimming. Sunday we did take time out to slip into Maroochydore to buy a boogie board to improve the wave surfing experience. We also visited the Endeavour Foundation Art Union House currently being raffled in Mudjimba. Liked it and could imagine living here so bought, what we hope is, the prize winning ticket. Plan to move in early May 2017.

Monday morning entailed some more shopping, followed by a swim. Late afternoon I decided to ride to Coolum. Followed the bike track as far as Point Arkwright before turning around to make camp in time for happy hour. Coolum would have to wait for another day. Tuesday we drove north to the southern area of the Noosa National Park. Leaving the car at Sunshine Beach we walked along the beach till we reached a very steep set of stairs leading us up to Devils Kitchen and then onto Lion Rock before descending down to the southern end of Alexandria Bay; the beach we had visited the previous week from the Noosa via the coastal track. After 'smoko' we retraced our steps back to Sunshine Beach, stopping off at the Mount Coolum Hotel for a late but well earned lunch. Driving back to Mudjimba we hatched a plan to get up early tomorrow morning and tackle Mt Coolum. 

We did sleep-in Wednesday morning but we still made the trailhead at Mount Coolum by 7:00am. Sign said "Steep grade, 2 hours return". The summit is 203m above sea level. Good news is we completed it easily within the 2 hours, considering we spent more than 30 minutes at the top looking around and taking photos. Bad news being it was fairly hazy and photos mediocre, but we certainly felt accomplished and satisfied. Later in the day we took the new boogie board to the beach and although the surf was a little rough we gave it a work out and had a great time.

Thursday, our last day in Mudjimba proved to be a big and very enjoyable day. Once again we mounted the push bikes with Coolum Beach the goal. We followed the bike path to Marcoola, Mount Coolum, Yaroomba to Point Arkwright. We continued north, but ran out of bike track. As it was getting hot and close to lunchtime we retreated back to Marcoola for fish and chips, stopping off at Mudjimba Beach on the homeward stretch for a swim. 'Map my Ride' recorded the round trip as 21.3 km. Feeling pretty pleased with ourselves we decided to re-visit the summit at Mount Coolum and hope for clearer vistas in the late afternoon. So at 3:10 pm we set off again and according to 'Map my Walk' completed the 193m climb and 3.10 km round trip in 1 hour 15 minutes and captured a couple of good photos, along the way.

Friday morning we packed camp and continued our trek south heading for Bribie Island on the northern outskirts of Brisbane. 


Bribie Island

2017-03-03 to 2017-03-08

Still undecided about Bribie Island. We stayed on the surf side (Woorim) and on reflection may have been better staying on the Pumicestone Passage side (Bongaree). The van park was acceptable but old and compounded by unfriendly managers and staff. Majority of sites are permanents with the remaining sites and park roads very tight for larger rigs. There is also a lot of capital works going on around and along the Woorim beach front, making access and just getting around difficult. Also a lot more services are located on the passage side. We did however enjoy our six day stay and Joan was very complimentary of the running/cycling tracks. It was also convenient that whilst in a populated and administrative area we finalised the sale of our Gracemere house. It certainly helped having access to JP's, banks, good internet and a Post Office. We also took time out Monday to visit Joan's dad in Kilcoy.

We did swim at Woorim beach and Joan got to use her boogie board again. The surf was not great but the water was a good temperature. About one third of the island is National Park and we did venture as far as the White Patch and the Park Rangers HQ but did not proceed into the park, as not really equiped for sand dunes and sandy or beach roads. We did however visit the talking Matthew Flinders monument and debated the purpose of the nearby Glass House Mountains Statues. Miniature rock versions of the Glass House Mountains which are in clear view across the Pumicestone Passage from Solander Esplande where the statues are located.

Monday evening we decided to visit Buckley's Hole, a wetlands, to view the splendour of the annual migrating shorebirds from Alaska, Siberia and China. Must be too late in the season because all we were greeted with were a few wild ducks and the ever present flock of ibis. We relocated around the corner to Melba Park to watch the sun set over the mainland and enjoy happy hour on the water's edge. On Wednesday we decided to transfer the bike rack from the caravan to the back of the car. We the drove to the Bribie Jetty and set off on the bikes towards Banksia Beach. We only got as far as Bellara Marina before running out of bike track. Not a big ride but memorable because it was completed with no batteries, particularly taking into account no gears and only 16" wheels on our little bikes. That adds up to a lot of peddling.

Thursday morning after some manoeuvring we extracted the van and ourselves from Bribie Island van park and skirted Brisbane and Ipswich in search of a tree change in the little township of Kalbar conveniently located in the Scenic Rim. The attraction here is a number of lakes and National Parks with walking tracks, lookouts and waterfalls. Will update what we find here next week.


The Scenic Rim

2017-03-09 to 2017-03-15

What a well kept secret the Scenic Rim has been, only 1 hour from Brisbane and/or the Gold Coast. When you think, hear or read about the south east corner of Queensland it is always Brisbane, the Sunshine Coast or the Gold Coast that comes to mind but for a truely all-round experience we will now include the Scenic Rim. The area includes the country towns of Beaudesert, Boonah, Canungra, Kalbar, Kooralbyn, Rathdowney, Tamborine Mountain and Aratula. It is host to a number of National parks, two lakes in Lake Maroon and Lake Moogerah. It is a vegetable growing area nestled in the foothills of the Great Dividing Range, with easy access to a number of spectacular lookouts, waterfalls and well maintained walking tracks not to mention some great 4WD areas for beginners.

We based ourselves at the Kalbar Showgrounds and enjoyed 7 days exploring the surrounds. The Showgrounds is a great spot, only $110/week for power, water, hot showers, large grassy sites, a dump point and great caretakers in Russ and Sandra. Although the district received some well sortafter rain during this week we were still able to visit and enjoy many of the local attractions. These included:
Lookouts 
1. Mt Carmel Lookout just above Boonah, providing a view of the township and a panoramic skyline of the rim of mountains.
2. Logan's Lookout at Mt French above Kalbar with spectacular views of Flinders Peak and Cunningham's Gap
3. Mt Cordeaux Lookout, a short walk from Cunningham's Gap provided great panoramic though hazy views of the Scenic Rim.
4. Cunningham's Lookout. One of the explorer's campsites providing views of Mt Mitchell, Mt Grenville, Cunningham's Gap and Mt Cordeaux.
5. Treviot Falls Lookout taking in magnificent views of the Fassifern Valley, Lake Moogerah and the Boonah area.
6. Carr's Lookout overlooking breathtaking views of Spring creek and Cambanoora Gorge - great 4WD Road, 14 river crossings in about 20 km.
7. Governor's Chair at Spicer's Gap, in the words of Governor,  Sir George Bowen an "incomparable panorama". This panorama includes Mounts Walker, Edwards, French, Grenville, Alford, Moon, Maroon and Toowoomba.
Waterfalls included Teviot, Queen Mary and Dagg's Falls.
Towns visited around Kalbar were Boonah, Maroon, Rathdowney, Aratula, Obum Obum, Peak Crossing, Warrill and Killarney. Note:Kalbar has a great bakery supplying good meat pies and coffee. Rathdowney also has pies worth mentioning.
Lakes - We walked across the dam wall at Lake Moogerah and had a fun day kayaking at Lake Maroon. Great photo opportunities at both these locations.

This morning we will pack up and the BT-50 will take on the challenge of Cunningham's Gap towing the van en route to Warwick. Will let you know how we fared when we get to the Darling Downs.


Warwick, SE Queensland

2017-03-16 to 2017-03-19

Was very pleased with the BT-50 and how easily it handled Cunningham's Gap. Even passed a couple of trucks on the way up. Once on top of the range we cruised into Warwick. As we had come from the east and entered town from the north we had to drive through the middle of town to arrive at our van park (Kahler's Oasis Van Park), on the southside  of Warwick. We were pleased with the big site that we were allocated, along the back fence line, with mountain views. An added bonus for Joan was the grey horse in the adjoining paddock that immediately came to the fence to make our acquaintance. Thursday afternoon was spent visiting the Information Centre, shopping at Aldi and general familiarisation of the Warwick township.

Friday morning we backtracked to Clintonvale before heading north to the Goomburra section of Main Range NP. The drive in was along a scenic winding road with gravel sections and creek crossings. The plan for today was to complete a number of small hikes taking in two lookouts and a waterfall. Unfortunately due to recent rain the Lookout road was closed so we had to be satisfied with lunch at the Kurrajong picnic area and a short walk around the creek circuit. We then headed back to Warwick via the little township of Alloa. On returning to town rain was threatening so elected to spend the afternoon at the Warwick library updating photos, blogs and apps courtesy of the library free wifi. 

Saturday morning the rain had cleared so I took some time out to visit and photograph some of the grand sandstone buildings around town. These included St Mary's Catholic Church, St Mark's Anglican Church, the Post Office and the Town Hall. After lunch we took a run out to Lake Leslie (west of the town), which turns out to be a man made dam. The dam level was only at 14% so very low and not very appealing. The lake is named after Patrick Leslie, an early settler in the district. His wife, Kate was a Macarther, the family of Marino sheep fame. Sculptures and plaques  give tribute and the history of the Leslie family in the Warwick district. Continuing this water theme we then ventured south of Warwick to Connolly Dam. Not sure about this place. It was a very small dam. Most significant things being the colourfully painted pumphouse and the  ornate gates, visitor's have to open and pass through to gain entry. Another noteworthy point is only electric driven craft are permitted on the lake.

Sunday morning we packed-up camp to drive the 40 km to Stanthorpe. It is a nice run into Stanthorpe passing many orchards, some vineyards and roadside fruit and vegetable stalls on the approach to town. After manoeuvring through the Main Street of Stanthorpe and over a narrow bridge we located the Information Centre. Armed with the usual collection of maps and brochures we anticipated some busy days ahead of us, even if the forecast was rain. Our campsite for this stopover was Aloomba Lavender Farm, Liston, just over the border into NSW, about 20 km from Stanthorpe. Arriving at the gate of Aloomba we knew immediately it was going to be a great week and this location was a great find.


Stanthorpe

2017-03-20 to 2017-03-26

Aloomba Lavender is located on a 4,000 acre working cattle property. The Lavender covers 6 acres with approximately 12,000 plants. The owners and hosts Peter and Tere Bonner have diversified into bush camping and B&B accommodation and they certainly make you feel like it is home away from home and we had the whole property to ourselves. Well, we had to share with their kelpie dog, Tilley. We spent 5 nights here and it certainly proved to be a great camp and a base to explore the surrounding Granite Belt and New England regions.

Although it had rained overnight and it was overcast Monday morning we decided to visit a number of the Stanthorpe attractions. First stop was Donnelly's Castle, a rocky outcrop on the edge of town that was a popular hideout for Bushrangers that roamed the New England back in the day. It was a little damp but we enjoyed wandering between the rock formations, arches and caves. From here we visited Sam's Farm Fresh Fruit & Veg. It was worth the visit and we made a contribution to the local economy. The bounty included a case of Golden Queen Peaches which Joan declared 'as the best fruit she had ever tasted'. After a short stop at Kent Saddlery to check out horsey things and all things that smell of leather we made a further contribution to the local economy and enjoyed a ploughman's lunch at Jersey Girl's Cafe, part of Stanthorpe Cheese. Not only a good lunch but we also stocked up on cheese and salami. Bring on happy hour. On the way home we called into Mt Marly Lookout for an overall view of Stanthorpe.

Tuesday morning was still overcast so we had a quiet morning at home and enjoyed a wonderful cup of tea and chat with Tere and Peter. After lunch we ventured to Bald Rock NP to see if we could climb Bald Rock, which rises 200 metres above the surrounding bushland and is claimed to be the largest exposed Granite Rock in Australia. An information board in the park also states 'Bald Rock is the second largest rock in Australia, Ayers Rock taking the prize'. It was too wet so we kept heading towards Tenterfield, stopping off at Boonoo Boonoo NP. Nice drive but also very wet so we high-tailed it for home. Cheese and bickies for happy hour.

Overcast again Wednesday morning but we had chosen indoor activities so potential rain was not an issue. First up we attended the morning session of LawDogs Australia. It is a dog show that gives an insight into the training of security patrol and law enforcement dogs. It was very entertaining and part of the charm is these dogs are not showdogs but future potential working dogs, in training, and the demonstration doesn't always go to plan. The presenter/trainer was very clear and informative with a script that kept both adults and children engaged. From here we ventured to another local business, the Glass Shokunin Studio. It wasn't exactly what we anticipated but the owner/artist demonstrated the processes involved in creating kiln formed glass and his passion for manipulating glass to make the jewellery, vases and other artefacts he sells. After lunch in town we did a little shopping before retiring to Aloomba.

Thursday, finally a sunny morning so we wasted no time in getting to Bald Rock NP. There are two ways to reach the summit of Bald Rock. The shortest and quickest is the 720 metre Rockface Walk or the gradual 2km Bungoona Walk. Because of the rain the rockface was too slippery to climb so we had to be content with the longer walk. Does not matter how you get to the summit the elation and views are well worth the effort. It is a great walk full of of canyons, stone arches, boulders and echo points. Emerging out of the trees and rocky outcrops to the water-streaked dome, balancing rocks and panoramas is a photographers dream. Still failed however to get that ever elusive magic shot. We spent some time on the top viewing the world from this vantage point and looking at what we assumed to be Castle Rock, our next camp destination. On descending the rock we had lunch in the picnic area before setting off for Little Bald Rock. The attraction here was the potential of a good view/photo of Bald Rock. Unfortunately the weather turned nasty and started to rain again and get rather cold so we abandoned the walk and retreated home to warm dry clothes.

Friday morning we reluctantly packed up camp and after another great cuppa and chat with Tere we headed towards Stanthorpe around lunch time. The plan here was to restock the larder, fridge and water tanks before heading to Girraween NP. After setting up camp in the Top of Town van park we headed to the Granite Belt Brewery, a local micro Brewery, for lunch and to sample some local beer. We enjoyed an enormous shared meal simply called the carnivore. The brewery has 7 different beers on offer which can be purchased over the bar or samples can be purchased by the paddle, consisting of 4 samples of your choice. It was a good choice of venue as we certainly enjoyed both the food and the liquid refreshments. My favourite being the IPA - Indian Pale Ale.

Saturday we put ourselves and our bikes to the test with a challenge to ride to Ballandean, some 34 km south of Stanthorpe. We had underestimated the number and steepness of the hills enroute. We did get 13 km to Severnlea, home of the Granite Belt Cheese Co on Severn Brae Estate. What was to be a coffee break turned into a wine and cheese tasting. The owner Bruce made us feel very welcome providing generous samples of both cheese and wine accompanied by a nonstop commentary on the historic building, the wines, his cheeses, and Stanthorpe. We appreciated the stories, the ambiance and the country hospitality. We returned later in the day with the car and stocked up with some more cheese, wine and some hot chilli sauce. All in all a great day but did prove our bikes are not fit for heavy duty or Tour de France ambitions. Both the bike batteries and our batteries were exhausted by the time we got back to the van park. The bikes with 14" wheels and no gears are  suited for bike paths around town or along the beach front but  definitely not for difficult road trips. 

Sunday we readied the van for free camping next week. Monday morning we packed up and under clear blue skies headed for Castle Rock campgrounds in the Girraween National Park. Really looking forward to the walking trails and rock climbing ahead of us. 


Girraween National Park

2017-03-27 to 2017-03-31

Girraween National Park (NP) turned out to meet and exceed all our expectations and was certainly everything the reviews had promised. The bitumen access road, great camping sites, massive granite outcrops, precariously balanced boulders, well maintained and signposted walking tracks, rock pools and spectacular views. The only setback was that the showers were not operating due to a recent lightening strike and this meant a re-evaluation of our water inventory and usage. As it turned out it was a minor inconvenience and we ended up staying an extra day without exhausting our supply or having to access our 40 litres of emergency water supply.

The first day (Monday) we tackled a couple of easy walks. The first was to Dr Roberts Waterhole, named after the local doctor who was a driving force and had the foresight in the 1930's, in persuading the government of the day to declare what is now known as Girraween NP as national park. On the return trip we diverted to the Underground Creek walk through swamp and woodland to arrive at a creek that disappears beneath boulders that have fallen from the burnished-gold cliffs above. By chance some passing hikers pointed out a side path that leads behind and above the underground rock face. This was like discovering a whole new world. Imagine the joy of unlocking the next level of a favourite computer game. This world presented unusual rock formations, rock pools, swimming holes and two snakes taking advantage of the warm granite. A great afternoon and an easy 4 km walk. 

Tuesday we woke to clear blue skies which meant we could attempt our assault on the Pyramid, a class 4 climb to the 1180m summit. The warm up walk took us to the Granite Arch, Girraween's own natural stone archway; an iconic location often used to promote Girraween NP. From here we steadily climbed uphill through eucalypt forests and past rocky outcrops till we arrived at the base of this massive Granite dome. We took our time and with plenty of stops we eventually clambered to the summit. It was a very difficult climb for us with some steep sections and some exposed vertical drops. As the brochure says "If the climb doesn't take your breath away, views of Balancing Rock, the second Pyramid and over Girraween NP will". It was very satisfying to have conquered the Pyramid and unfortunately none of my photos truely captured the beauty or the elation of the moment. We only walked/climbed a distance of 3.6 km but it was quite a workout. It was testament that we are fitter than when we visited China in 2014, as this was a more difficult climb than the Great Wall of China but we completed it with less fuss. The descent was without incident and after lunch and a short afternoon nap we set out again to walk the 3.7 km to the junction of Bald Rock Creek and Ramsay Creek. A really pleasant walk along this fast flowing creek with many small waterfalls and rock pools. It was still warm enough to take a refreshing dip at the junction but I did struggle getting out of the rock pool thanks to the slippery moss covered river bed and rock walls. 

Wednesday turned out to be a little overcast but this was a blessing in disguise. Plan for today was to tackle the three main attractions on the Southern Section walks; Castle Rock (another class 4 walk, 1112m) the Sphinx and Turtle Rock. The walk to Castle Rock was not too difficult with a well maintained track through black cypress and stringybark woodlands. Once above the tree line it is a steep climb over exposed granite rocks but nothing prepares you for the panoramic views after squeezing through a crevasse onto a rock cliff top just below the summit. The final climb to the summit is not too demanding but definitely worth the effort. After quite a long smoko and a phone call to both of the kids (yes we actually had phone service up there), feeling very accomplished we pushed onto the Sphinx. The Ridge walk to the Sphinx was relatively easy, though a little disappointing when we arrived at the Sphinx and really couldn't see it. A local hiker came to our rescue and explained where we had to stand to get the Sphinx experience. We got it but as with a lot of these rock sculptures it takes take some imagination. All the same it was a lovely location with great views and the boulders not only provided shade but good seating arrangements for lunch. We followed the trail towards Turtle rock which came to an abrupt end at what we figured would be the Turtle's bum. We could go no further as it was sheer rock face and we had neither the equipment nor the skill to proceed. We had a leisurely down hill walk home with the new found knowledge that the Turtle is better viewed from afar.

It started to rain Wednesday night and continued all day on Thursday, ceasing sometime early Friday morning. Needless to say we had a rest day Thursday giving me an opportunity to catch up on my blog and photos and Joan the chance to put a further dent in the latest book she is reading.

Friday was still overcast but not raining. We packed up and headed back to Stanthorpe to top up the water and food supplies before starting the trek back to Bouldy. Must say I was very pleased with our water management and the efficiency and the benefit of our solar panel. We arrived at Castle Rock with batteries charged at 13.2 volts and left 4 days later after rain with batteries reading 12.4 volts. Arriving back in Stanthorpe we also had the chance to catch up on the impact and status of Cyclone Debbie and the aftermath. Also back in service we could contact friends and relatives. Fortunately lots of stories but no injuries or major losses within the family or circle of friends. 


Stanthorpe - Texas - Millmerran - Jondaryn

2017-03-31 to 2017-04-06

Friday we settled back into the Top of Town Van Park. Had a quiet day catching up on washing clothes and cleaning the van. Late afternoon we went for a walk along Quart Pot Creek and the manicured parklands that meander through the middle of Stanthorpe. Friday night we had a delightful meal at the ORSO Thai restaurant. Saturday we had another relaxing day. After completing the grocery shopping we called into the Collectables Fair being held, next to the van park, at the Showgrounds. Nothing took our fancy but we did take the easy option of buying lunch and coffee from the food stall.

Sunday we broke camp and had a pleasant drive west to Texas finding a perfect campsite on the banks of the partly flooded Dumaresq River. Texas is a RV friendly town, so named as a reference to a territorial dispute between the United States and Mexico. Original settlers, the McDougall brothers, found squatters on their land on returning from the goldfields. Once their legal right to the land was recognised, they named their property in honour of the rather more famous USA dispute over Texas.

The camp area has a large flat grassed area and access to showers and toilets in the town area. Being Sunday afternoon the Main Street was deserted but we found a good selection of shops and local businesses worth checking out on Monday. We had a drive around the local area coming across some deserted Tobacco drying sheds, the now defunct Riverside Ice Works and Texas Rabbit Processing Works. Monday we decided to stay another day and enjoy the solitude of the riverside camp and the friendly vibe of Texas. It also allowed us to enjoy some locally baked bread and meat pies from the Spar and make a small contribution to the local economy via the Rowell Variety Store, an incredible floor to ceiling shelf packed treasure trove.

Tuesday was a late start with us departing Texas around lunch time, driving the 126 km to the Millmerran Showgrounds, another cheap overnight stay. We got to share the grounds with about 80 cyclists taking part in a charity bike ride for cancer. The amenities were good and our neighbours surprisingly quite. Woke Wednesday morning to cyclists departing in their allotted groups. It was also 5th April, my birthday. As per custom Joan cooked a special birthday breakfast whilst I opened my presents; a wallet, a shirt, trousers and a good bottle of wine. We also had a very enjoyable celebratory lunch on arrival at the Jondaryn Woolshed after a not so enjoyable drive from Millmerran.

Don't think the GPS selected the best route from Millmerran to Jondaryn, turning off at Brookstead and taking us via Norwin through black soil country. The narrow strip of bitumen was not only very potholed but in parts felt and looked like the results of an earthquake. It was a rather slow and bumpy trip towing the van, compounded by the soft and often water covered verge. Highlight of the trip were seperate phone calls from my daughters and grandkids wishing me a happy birthday. 

Jondaryn Woolshed also proved to be a good waypoint. We had visited here about 30 years ago with the girls, not long after it was opened, but memories of that trip are very vague. As I said lunch was good, as was the campsite though a little windy and cooler than anticipated. Thursday was still overcast and windy but we took in the sights and had another enjoyable lunch in the Woolshed cafe. 


Kingaroy

2017-04-07 to 2017-04-11

I awoke this morning (Thursday 13th April) to the delightful laughter and squeals of grandchildren playing and enjoying the company of their cousins. We are spending Easter with both our daughters and their families in Hervey Bay. It is shaping up to be a very memorable long weekend. The special bond that cousins share never ceases to amaze me. It gives me great joy to observe and play my part in all of this.

We spent most of last week in Kingaroy, and it was four days of nostalgia and reflection. Back in our 'peace, love and brown rice' days we spent 5 years in the South Burnett. We initially set up in Proston for about 6 months, before moving to Nanango. 

Proston was to be our idyllic alternative lifestyle. With two young children in tow it took us about 6 months to come to our senses and relocated to Nanago where the Tarong Power Station was being constructed. I found work there initially as a gardener and ultimately in the Supply Department as a Purchasing Officer. Still not entirely giving up on the alternative lifestyle we purchased a 12 acre block almost in the shadows of the power station on which we built a shed annexed to a caravan powered by 12 volt batteries, gas stove and wood heaters. Jump forward 3 years and I had been promoted to Purchasing Superintendent, we had built a 3 bedroom house and we were connected to the grid, we had electricity. It was at this time (1990) we were seeking better financial security so we moved across to coal mining to pursue the challenges and rewards of this booming industry. 

Back to Kingaroy, last Friday. Driving from Jondaryn Woolshed to Kingaroy we reminisced about our years in the South Burnett and agreed to revisit 3 places of significance to us; the Bunya Mountains, Proston and Nanango, during our stay. I wanted to add a fourth, Tarong Power Station, but Joan doesn't share my passion for electricity generating plants.

Driving into Kingaroy, the roads seemed better than we remembered and the shopping options had definitely improved with a modern Woolworths, Aldi and Big W on offer. After settling into the Showgrounds, which turned out to be an excellent campgrounds, we had a closer look at Kingaroy. Unfortunately we found it to be a little depressing and run down; not the thriving community we envisaged. Saturday was a fine day and we enjoyed the forty minute drive to the Bunya Mountains. It was very green and cool as expected. There were a lot more houses, shops and cafes then our last visit in 1989, but definitely just as popular and busy as we remembered it. After a very enjoyable and relaxed lunch at the Bunya's restaurant we spent the afternoon walking the familiar trails to waterfalls and lookouts. We drove back to Kingaroy via Brooklands late afternoon. On the trip home we reminisced about all the visitors we had taken to the Bunya's; Liz, Ian & the girls, my Dad & Mum, Mick & Jenny, Monique, Billy & Cathy and Gaff. Driving back into Kingaroy we passed the Taabinga cemetery and our thoughts turned to Steve, our mate we buried here back in 1990, a victim of melanoma. We agreed we needed to locate his grave and pay our respects.

Sunday afternoon we drove to Nanago and had a quick look around before making our way out to Langans Road. This proved to be a sobering visit. It was like entering a time warp. The black wattle block that we had cleared 30 years ago was overgrown again and the whole street looked neglected. As we drove out of this rural neighbourhood we both agreed leaving in 1990 was probably one of the best decisions we have ever made. Not sure what would have happened if we had persevered with this water deprived 'prickle' block. On the way back to Kingaroy we called into the cemetery and walked about 75% of the rows without success in locating Steve. Searched the net that evening to no avail so first thing Monday morning visited the Council Chambers and 5 minutes later had the site reference we needed. 

Before visiting Steve we took a run to Proston to revisit what was going to be our Nirvana. Unfortunately the outcome was similar to our experience the previous day in Langans Road. The Coverty /Glencoe area looked very run down. We returned to Kingaroy via Wondai, having lunch at the Butcher's Cafe in Wooroolin. With the Council provided plot reference we easily located Steve's grave and paid our respects and assured him that although it has been 27 years between visits, he has been in our thoughts and not forgotten. 

Tuesday we had a leisurely morning packing up and then made the 3 hour drive to Nikki's place for Easter with the family.


Hervey Bay and back to homebase

2017-04-11 to 2017-04-16

Tuesday 11th April we had an unrushed pack-up at Kingaroy Showgrounds and headed north on the now familiar trek to Hervey Bay. We were excited to be spending Easter with both our girls and their families. Kathy, Tim and the boys travelled down from May Downs and we all camped at Nikki and Shaun's place. We arrived about 3:00pm and Tim and Kath arrived just on 8:00pm. Excitement all round.

Kids were up early next morning; lucky neighbours! We spent the morning at the beach and a lazy afternoon in the shade of the palm trees in Nikki's front yard. Thursday we went to Burrum Heads and met Shaun and Tim who had left earlier to collect a tinnie to take the kids fishing. Joan and I went kayaking on the Burrum River whilst the others were fishing. Fishing trip was not very successful, with Jayce being the only one to bring anything home. We did however find the local fish shop and ended up with a great feed of local fish and chips. Late afternoon we went for a bike ride to the beach.

Good Friday we drove into Hervey Bay for the kids to play at a local park and walk to the end of Urangan Pier. Being Good Friday we enjoyed a good feed of prawns for both both lunch and dinner.

Saturday morning Tim, Kath and the boys packed up and headed for home. Joan and I did some grocery shopping and had a pretty lazy day playing with the kids. Sunday morning after the Easter egg hunt was concluded we packed up and also headed for home. We arrived back in Bouldy mid afternoon, elated that we had a great Easter with the kids but a little flat because our roaming retirees status was now on hold for a few months. The current plan is to spend the cooler months, May, June and July at home base catching up with friends, spending some time with the kids and carrying out general maintenance and some minor tinkering with the van in preparation for the next tour, starting August when we hope to make another attempt at getting to Tasmania. 

For future reference some metrics from this last trip away.

Days away from home = 259 days

Number of waypoints = 64 places

Total kilometres travelled = 21,925 km

Kilometres towing van = 12,132 km. (55% of klm travelled)

Amount of diesel consumed = 3,222.57 ltr

Cost of diesel consumed = $3,999.21

Average cost of diesel/ltr = 124.1 cpl

Average fuel consumption = 14.7ltr/100km

Best ltr/100 km = 8.7 ltr

Highest ltr/100km = 16.7 ltr.

Nights Free Camping = 103 nights

Nights paid site fees = 156 nights

Total site fees paid = $5,380.50

Average site fee = $34.49

Additional summary data on route and places visited can be found on the following link

https://trackmytour.com/3hNhx


Bedford Weir - Carnarvon Gorge

2017-08-03 to 2017-08-09

We spent May, June and July at home-base catching up with family and friends, doing some mandatory maintenance on the homefront and the caravan. Joan also did some volunteer work leading up to and during the Rocky show. My special project was to sort out the weight distribution with the van. Last week of July we visited Hervey Bay and spent a few days with Nikki, Shaun and the grandkids. On Sunday 30th with van packed, weight evenly distributed and legal, we headed for May Downs to catch up with Kath, Tim and the other grandkids before hitting the open road. 

On Thursday 3rd August, we departed May Downs to start the next chapter of our Adventure before Dementia Tour traveling to the free camp adjacent to Bedford Weir on the banks of the Mackenzie River near Blackwater. The Weir was near full but not overflowing. It was a good shady camp with good clean amenities and hot showers. Although around 50 vans taking advantage of this campground it was not overly crowded.

Friday morning we broke camp and stopped off in Blackwater to do a grocery shopping, fill up with fuel and potable water before heading south to Rolleston for lunch and really good coffee from the little van in the park. After lunch we continued 100klm south to meet up with Denis & Di Bendall at Sandstone Park campsite at Carnarvon NP. Denis had selected a good site close to the onsite amenities; a toilet and dump Point. There is no potable water or power here but every site has a magnificent 360 degree view of Carnarvon Gorge and the surrounding Acadia Valley.

Saturday we got our bearings and checked out a couple of the close short walks; Rock Pool and Mickey Creek Gorge. Saturday night was a great lamb roast, veggies and gravy all cooked in a camp oven. Sunday morning after a hearty campfire breakfast we ventured a little further afield and hiked to the Moss Gardens. What a rewarding walk with a small picturesque waterfall and moss covered sandstone. On the return trip we climbed the 200m high, 300m steep stepped track to Boolimba Bluff to be rewarded with views of the distant ranges and cliffs of the Carnarvon Gorge. Sunday evening was another great campfire and bar-b-que. 

Monday Denis & Di had to pack and head home. We had a quiet day, only venturing out for a short walk to Baloon Cave and a great feed of fish and chips for lunch at the Wilderness Lodge.

Tuesday we were up early and on the walking track by 8:30am. We walked the 9.5klm to Cathedral Cave. Then ventured the additional 500m to reach Big Bend. On the return trip we ventured up all the side tracks also ticking off Wards Canyon, Art Gallery and the Amphitheatre. The secret oasis and atmosphere of the Amphitheatre was the clear winner. A hidden rock chamber with towering stone walls and a natural skylight that in the late afternoon creates a surreal out of this world space and experience. We arrived back at camp just before 5:00pm having completed 24klm and a rewarding day enjoying this National Park.

Tomorrow we head for Roma.


Roma & St George

2017-08-09 to 2017-08-15

Wednesday 9th August we rose to another picture perfect day. We took our time breaking camp not getting away till almost 11:00am. An uneventful and enjoyable drive had us in Injune about 12:30pm where we topped up with fuel and had a great hamburger and even better coffee at Cafe on Second. Recommended if passing this way. After lunch we travelled the remaining 90 klm to Roma, pulling up at a farmstay, Ups 'N' Downs just on the outskirts of town. The site was a little stoney, but the amenities were large and clean with nice hot showers. The owners were friendly and fellow campers chatty.  We have been to Roma before and the only real thing of interest, the sale yards, were not operating this week because of the Ekka being on in Brisbane, so we went food shopping instead, but not before spending an hour in Ace Drapery, McDowall Street, Roma. Ace's is the ultimate haberdashery shop. A very old wooden building with numerous narrow isles lined with shelving, floor to ceiling with literally thousands of rolls of material, buttons, thread and every other household item you can imagine. I have participated and managed many large inventory stocktakes but would never contemplate or attempt an exercise the size of Ace's Drapery. Just the thought of it would give me nightmares not to mention the HSE aspects of such a task. We spent the remainder of our Roma stay lazing around the camp before heading further south on Friday morning.

Friday afternoon found us checking into the Pelican Rest Caravan Park in St George. The van park site was grassy, shaded and level. We were to discover this was a great waypoint with the added bonus of a heated swimming pool resulting in a 5 night layover. Saturday we visited the local information centre and walked along the banks of the Balonne River. On reaching the Weir and the St George Bridge we spent some time trying to locate a geocache hidden in this area. Geocaching is an outdoor recreational activity, in which participants use a GPS and other navigational techniques on a mobile device to hide and seek containers, called "geocaches" or "caches", at specific locations marked by coordinates all over the world. We have been locating geocaches for a few weeks now, with some success and although not fanatical will probably continue seeking them out as we travel around. No luck today so had to record a DNF (did not find).

Sunday we started exploring the district and ended up at the Nindigully Pub for lunch and Sunday session. Nindigilly Pub is Queensland’s oldest hotel located in its original condition and position on the banks of the Moonie River. The license was issued in 1864 after operating as shearer’s accommodation for the Nindigully Station. Today it is a free camping location for travelling caravaners, and is famous for its large hamburgers. The Road Train burger is a 1.2kg Meat Patty served with the lot including chips, sauce and onion rings, weighing in somewhere around 3-4kg!  I had the counter lunch burger and it was sufficient. After lunch we continued down the road to Thallon where the GrainCorp silos have recently been painted with murals depicting scenes from the surrounding district. As the silos are on a work site access is restricted but a viewing platform has been provided to view this silo art.

Monday, a quiet morning catching up on domestic duties. Lunch was a treat with steak pies from the local bakery. In the afternoon I revisited the geocache site and this time was successful, in locating and logging the find. After this victory we headed out to the EJ Beardmore Dam and Lake Kajarabie, the town water supply and irrigation scheme for the local cotton farms. It was a nice parkland and picnic area but could not find or gain access to the water. The spillway was not running and minimum water was being released into the river system. 

Tuesday was a lazy day, shopping, washing and general household duties before heading off on the next leg. We still have 4 weeks before we need to be in Sydney/Hunter Valley for two seperate family celebrations. These being our only commitments before boarding the Spirit of Tasmania (SoT) in Melbourne 14th October.


Family visits, Kilcoy & Hervey Bay

2017-08-16 to 2017-08-25

Commitment - an engagement or obligation that restricts freedom of action.

One of the main differences I have realised between working life and retirement is  the decline in commitments. We still have commitments but fewer and less frequent and I am starting to appreciate it is this resultant freedom that nourishes this life of a Roving Retiree. It means if we find a place we like we can stay until the urge to move on becomes stronger or a commitment dictates our next move. It also explains why our travels over the past year or so look like a lost dog trying it find his way home. This is a result of both succumbing to our desire to move on or fulfilling a standing or new commitment. This does not mean we do not have a master plan. We do, and that is to see and enjoy as much of Australia as we can over a 5 year period.

But last week we realised we could take full advantage of this commitment-free lifestyle. Considering that we had almost a month till our next commitment, and only 750km to travel to get there. Also appreciating that we would probably not get back to Queensland until April next year, 8 months away, we decided to take advantage of this free time and rather than continue south we turned east and detoured for Kilcoy, to visit Joan's dad. We overnighted in Dalby Wednesday night, driving Cooyar, Yarraman, Blackbutt Thursday morning arriving in Kilcoy just after lunch, camping at the Kilcoy Showgrounds. We spent a couple of days in Kilcoy, catching up with Martin and meeting his neighbour Lesley. Unfortunately the Kilcoy races were on Saturday afternoon so we had to vacate the Showgrounds, so took further advantage of this free time, and headed for Hervey Bay to give Nikki and the grandkids a surprise visit. Spent time with them on Monday. Tuesday was a washing, cleaning and shopping day before heading west again on Wednesday. We overnighted in Miles Wednesday night, back into St George for Thursday night, moving onto Lightning Ridge Friday morning, checking into the Lightning Ridge Outback Resort & Caravan Park. Pay for 3 nights get the 4th night free. Good deal.

All in all, a beneficial week resulting in quality time with family with the added bonus of surprising both households, young and old, seeing some beautiful country side and listening to a further 20 hours of our audio book.


Lightning Ridge and surrounds, Black Opal Capital of the world.

2017-08-25 to 2017-08-28

We arrived in Lightning Ridge , Black Opal capital of the world, just on lunch time, so positioned the van, hooked up power and then immediately went up town to get some lunch and get our bearings. After lunch we finished setting up camp. Although large drive-through sites, ours was a little on the narrow side, so had to be a little creative in setting up the annex walls for our outdoor area and Joan's workout space. I was pleased with end result and will probably adopt this setup in future. Late afternoon we made a visit to the Information Centre, emerging with a ream of maps and information sheets, thanks to an enthusiastic local tourist ambassador. Looks like there is a lot to see and do in and around Lightning Ridge.

First stop was the free Council hot artesian pool, open all hours except between 10:00am till 12 noon daily, when closed for cleaning and maintenance purposes. It is hot, ranging between 40 - 44 degrees C depending what side of the pool you enter. It was hot but we made serval visits here, usually early morning or early evening after dinner.

First impressions of Lightning Ridge put It about mid point on the mining-town scale somewhere between Coober Pedy, South Australia and the Gem Fields in Queensland. More organised than the Gem Fields but not as 'wild west' as Coober Pedy. What the Walget Shire does do well is promote the area and provide informative maps and guide sheets to supplement their system of self-guided 'car door' tours. By use of different coloured and numbered old car doors it is possible to self guide around Lighting Ridge and the surrounding opal fields. There are five seperate drives and we completed all of them over 3 days.

Saturday -

(1) The Blue Car Door Tour (NE side of town off Gem Street). This is only a short drive along a dirt road with access to a number of Opal mines, all with an entrance fee. It is a good introduction to the opal fields and an insight in how the locals live and make a living on 50x50 metre residential mining claims.

(2) The Yellow Car Door Tour (SW side of town off Three Mile Road). A longer drive on a dirt road with some larger open cut mines littered with old machinery and miners cottages. There are some fenced abandoned shafts and pits for safe viewing on the way to and at Lunatic Lookout. Circling around takes you past a corrugated iron Church purpose-built for the film 'Goddess of 1967', a movie about an unstable blind woman and a computer hacker travelling Australia in search of a Citroen car. Continuing on leads to the Castleraegh Highway near the unusual 'Stanley the Emu' statute (the big bird), the work of artist John Murray. The statute is located on a ridge , the site that Lightning Ridge was named after.

Sunday - 

We drove 75 klm west of Lightning Ridge to visit the Grawin Show. It was a market like show held at the Club in the Scrub. The local miners put on a great show with the usual show entries of photography, cooking, hand crafts, art, jewellery and produce. This was supported by live entertainment, sheep shearing and an ugly man contest. After lunch we ventured further into the Opal fields for the Orange Door Tour (Grawin, Wee-Warra, Sheepyard & Glengarry). This entailed a lot more rough dirt roads taking us past some large Opal dumps and spoil piles, a surprising and really well presented war memorial at Lake Beard and an incredible tin shed Pub at Sheepyards. We spent the afternoon on the verandah of the Sheepyard Pub with the locals watching the Floyd Mayweather and Conor McGregor fight. What a great afternoon. Got lost on the way home but did find the Glengarry Hilton.

Monday - 

(1) The Red Car Door Tour (SE side of town off Ernie Sherman Drive). Another look at the suburbs of Lightning Ridge, the site of the original settlement and first Opal rush on Sim's Hill in 1905. This tour ends with Amigo's Castle. A private home single-handedly built of Ironstone in the 1980's.

(2) The Green Car Door Tour (NW side of town off Bill O'Brien Way). This tour, we were advised to do late afternoon to capture the sunset. Another rough ironstone road 3.4 klm into Nettleton's First Shaft Lookout, the location of a monument in honour of Nettlton and the first shaft sunk in 1902, along with a stone Labyrinth (an intricate combination of paths making it difficult to find one's way or to reach the exit). There was also a Beer Can house with beer and wine bottles strategically placed through the walls creating an interesting light show and photo opportunities with the setting sun. We then joined the throng of other visitors gathered at the rear of their vehicles enjoying happy hour and the sun setting over the Coocoran Opal Fields.

Tomorrow we venture south to an unknown destination -  Galargambone.


It's always 5:00 o'clock in Gulargambone.

2017-08-29 to 2017-09-01

In our travels most Caravan parks and Council Showgrounds meet our expectations and provide a satisfactory service. Occasionally we stumble on a waypoint that stands out from the rest. Last week was a perfect example of a park that is doing many things right providing a phenomenal value for money experience. 

Gulargambone is a small town south of Lightning Ridge, NSW. We pulled into town mid Tuesday afternoon and initial thoughts being this town is doing it tough. Many of the shopfronts boarded up, Information Centre closed, and no cars parked outside the pub. The van park is two streets back from the highway, expectations were not great. Decided to do a drive-by to decide if we stop or keep going. It didn't look much from the road but the lush green grassy sites plus the good reviews we had read had us pulling into the office to stay at least one night. We were warmly greeted by the owner, David, who determined our requirements, gave us the rundown on their park and cordially invited us to happy, hour with nibbles provided, at 4:30pm. He then escorted us into the park, giving us the choice of 3 sites. We setup next to the maintenance container on a large powered site, that provided not only good shade but a perfect grassy area for Joan to do her daily exercise routine. 

Happy hour is held everyday c/w fire pit and nibbles. It was well supported during our stay. First park, I think, we have stayed where it appeared 100% of the patrons attended and participated. David and his wife Bernadette were perfect hosts and their free pizza went down really well with our cold beer. On Wednesday and Sunday nights they offer a $10 camp-oven cooked roast dinner. This initiative was also very well supported on the Wednesday night we were there. IThe camp kitchen and fire pit is also worthy of mention. It has obviously expanded over time with many knick-knacks and empty wine bottles decorating the walls.

The amenities are dated but well maintained, clean and the water hot. Like many other campers we extended our stay. We would have stayed longer but while exploring the surrounding district we discovered the Warrumbungle NP just 63klm away. The NP also  offered powered camp sites and the attraction of walking and climbing tracks so we did a big shopping in the Gulargambone Supermarket to stock up the fridge and pantry before relocating to the NP on Friday

If Gulargambone (and the Warrumbungles) are not on your travel plans, suggest you include them if travelling through north western NSW. Would also recommend supporting David and Bernadette who understand the needs and wants of the travelling caravan fraternity. By supporting them you not only guarantee this Park will continue to grow and provide impeccable service but may also help some of the struggling businesses in the township of Gulargambone. 

Note: 

  1. the Information Centre (and coffee shop) was open on other days, just closed on the day we arrived in town. 
  2. During our stay site fees for 2A on a powered site was $25/night.

Thanks David and Bernadette for a great waypoint.


Warrumbungle NP.

2017-09-01 to 2017-09-07

Whilst at Gulargambone we had a day trip to Sliding Spring Observatory, near Coonabarabran, to view the 3.9m Australian Astronomical Observatory, the largest optical astronomy research telescope in Australia. Not only did we really enjoy this experience and the views, we also discovered the spectacular skyline of the Warrumbungles. We were also surprised and glad to find that the National Park provided powered caravan sites, a dump point, hot showers and bathrooms, coupled with a network of bush walks ranging from easy to very steep, though most were moderate. We immediately decided that after Gulargambone we would divert to this Park, initially booking for three nights but ultimately we extended to six nights.

We selected a well protected, private site in Blackman #3 Camp. It was a short drive to the amenities block but not far from a modern drop toilet. The design of this waterless toilet was brilliant. Very clean, functional and efficient. The amenities block also had the hottest showers we have experienced. The showers were great particularly with the cold evenings but sensibly they were on a timer or it would have been too easy to waste water.

During our time there we walked seven of the eleven walks on offer and also visited the neighbouring Pilliga NP. On our Observatory visit and preliminary view of the park we did two easy walks; Whitegum Lookout and the Wambelong Nature Walk. The 2013 fire damage which wiped out 90% of the park, including the visitors centre, was still evident in places but the park is a testament to the robustness and survival instincts of the Australian bush.

On Friday, after setting up camp I located a geocache only 230m from our campsite. A good start. We then headed off to the Old Woolshed Picnic Area for a short 3.4klm return walk to Tara Cave. It was an easy well maintained paved track with great views of the graggy peaks of Warrumbungle NP, though the cave was a little disappointing. On our second day, Saturday, we choose a big walk incorporating the Pincham Trail, Goulds Circuit, taking in both Febar Tor and Macha Tor, then Spire View before climbing up and past Belougery Spire and Beadknife to the Grand High Tops. Round trip ended up just over 13klm with an estimated 8klm uphill. We completed it but it was a challenge. We should have left Goulds circuit for another day, as it was steep in parts with little reward. The climb, after lunch, from Spirey View to Grand High Tops seemed like an endless climb, all the more difficult because of the energy expended during the morning trek. The effort though was well worth it, with spectacular and up-close views of Breadknife, Belougery Spire and Crater Bluff, not to mention the breathtaking silhouette including the flat plains of the Warrumbungles. Sunday was a quiet day, being Father's Day and recovering from the walk, the previous day. Late afternoon we did a short walk around the Burbie Canyon Trail and decided to attempt the Belougery Split Rock climb later in the week.

Monday the walking tracks were closed as the rangers were conducting an aerial shoot to reduce number of feral goats, pigs and foxes so we decided to visit their neighbouring park; Pilliga, location of the Sandstone Caves and Dandry Gorge, home of the amazing Sculptures in the Scrub. It ended up a full day. The Caves was an easy walk in a great setting with colourful sandstone cliffs and caves, along with educational information on the Gamilaroi people and local Aboriginal culture. Sculptures in the Scrub was something else. Totally unexpected, varied and well worth the 30klm dirt road access. The artwork is not aboriginal but definitely aboriginally inspired. It ranges from modern stainless steel, bronze, stone, timber and ceramic art pieces. Easy access with great views of the Gorge topped off by an incredible return walk along the floor of the Gorge providing and an alternate view of two of the clifftop sculptures.

Tuesday, another quiet day around the campsite, though we did go for a  leisurely 6klm walk around Belougery Flats late afternoon, providing another look at the craggy silhouette of the Warrumbungles. Wednesday morning we parked the car in the Canyon Picnic area car park and set off on the steep climb being the Belougery Split Rock circuit. We did not make it to the summit. The final leg to the top was closed but doubt we would have attempted it, even if it was opened. We were surprised to find an elderly hiking group, numbering about 15 also doing this walk. The climb up was difficult but it was slower on the descent due to the loose stones, gravel and shear rock sections. One of the toughest walks we have done.

Thursday we packed up and headed for Coonabarabran, not sure where we would stop but expected it be somewhere in the Upper Hunter Valley as we plan to be in Maitland Friday pm.

Footnote. The Warrumbungles is definitely worth including as a waypoint if travelling in this area. Also this area is not only considered the Astronomy Capital of Australia but Warrumbungle NP has also been declared Australia's first Dark Sky Park in association with the International Dark Sky Parks. By taking back the night the NP has moved to reduce light pollution, providing exceptional starry nights and a protected nightscape. Great for astronomers and photographers. Unfortunately my camera is not equipped for those great extended exposure night sky shots.


Old home week - Upper Hunter Valley

2017-09-07 to 2017-09-15

Thursday we travelled as far as Murrurundi, setting up at the Murrurundi CP. It ended up a good choice. The owners Doug and Carol have created a well set out, quiet park with clean amenities and a very functional Camp Kitchen, which doubles as the venue for the daily happy hour, which was well supported most afternoons. First night at the happy hour we met a couple from the Griffith area, who turned out to be next door neighbours of my cousin Beth Pfitzner (née Spooner) in Rankin Springs. It is a small world sometimes.

Friday was a maintenance, van cleaning and clothes washing day though in the pm we did do some shopping, visited the Information Centre and climbed through the 'Eye of the Needle' to the lookout that overlooks the township of Murrurundi. 

Saturday we took a nostalgic run up to Moonan Flats, getting lost on the way but eventually arriving at the Victoria Hotel in time for lunch at the adjoining Red Dog Cafe. We ran home via Scone calling into the Linga Longa Inn at Gundy. Another favourite  weekend watering hole when we lived Aberdeen (2005 - 2007).

We had a lazy Sunday morning, before heading into Muswellbrook Race Track, Skellatar Park, for ladies race day. It had been a sunny morning and not as windy as the past few days. Fortunately the wind stayed away but it did cloud over during the afternoon. We missed the first two races but certainly enjoyed the remaining five races, though failed to pick a winner. Pride was restored with a few minor placing but as usual the bookies ended up in front.

Monday we enjoyed a quiet relaxing day around the camp but did head out to Wingen in the afternoon for a short hike to Burning Mountain. Initially thought to be a volcano but now known to be a coal seam that has been burning underground for several thousand years.

Tuesday we headed back into Scone to get hair cuts and a general tidy up in preparation for upcoming family events - Bard & Julie's wedding and Jacque & Rose's commitment ceremony. Also enjoyed a cheap counter lunch at the Royal, in Scone. Wednesday we did a drive to Sandy Hollow and Denman via Muswellbrook. Although a number of new mines have opened since we left this area early 2007 nothing much else has changed, though Denman seemed more expensive than we remembered. 

Thursday another quiet day spent in the annex with a walk after lunch around Murrurundi. Friday we packed up camp and headed for Maitland. Looking forward to a week of family, good food and too much celebrating. Cheers!


Wedding and rainbows

2017-09-16 to 2017-09-25

Friday we made our way from Murrurundi to Largs, just on the outskirts of East Maitland. We parked our van at Anne & Greg's, as arranged, then loaded the car up and headed to Annemarie and David's (my sister and her husband) in East Maitland for a week of family celebrations.

Saturday we, (Annemarie, David, Joan and I) travelled in their car to Liverpool to attend Bard & Julie's wedding at Moorebank Sports Club. Bard being my brother Paul's son. It was a beautiful and heartfelt ceremony followed by a relaxed and joyous celebration of this couple. It was a good venue, good food, just the right number of speeches and a unique wedding cake - a four layered cake with the top tier not only levitating above the others but slowly rotating. Gotta love geeks. It was also good to catch up and spend time with family.

Sunday after breakfasting and some shopping in Liverpool we made our way back to East Maitland. We were now on the count down to Jacq's (Annemarie and David's daughter) commitment ceremony to her partner Rose. This event being held on Saturday in Annemarie's backyard with around 50 guests attending. Over the next five days we helped Annemarie and David set the yard up for this event. Tasks included gardening, fence repairs, hanging lights, numerous trips to the shops for odds and sods, refreshments, decorations, pre-warning neighbours of the festivities, setting out tables and chairs and finally decorating everything with a splash of rainbow. End result being we enjoyed being involved and helping where we could and the venue looked fantastic. 

Friday, Kathy and the boys turned up as planned, on time, having travelled 1411klm from May Downs in Central Queensland, for the party. On Saturday morning the finishing touches were completed and guests started rocking up around 2:30 for the 3:00pm ceremony. The morning had been overcast but the sun was shining by mid afternoon. It was colourful, it was moving and a fun event for all involved. The rainbow cake was made by Jacq and a few speeches followed the cutting of the cake, then it was back to partying. Ended up a great night though some partied later than others.

Sunday morning after cleaning up and dismantling the lighting and decorations it was time to spend sometime with Kathy and the grandkids so on Annemarie's advice we headed out to the Hunter Valley Zoo at Cessnock. The boys loved it. We spent the afternoon running from one exhibit to the next, then doing it all again at a slower pace. There was a surprising array of animals on display. Many, the public can interact with by feeding or being able to pat them. Jayce's favourite was the monkeys and I think Billy was taken by the ostriches & camels. On the way home we called into Lochnivar cemetery to pay our respects to Dad & Mum.

Monday was another big day out with the grandkids. As the boys had never been on a train, we caught the train from Maitland to Hamilton, then bussed it to Civic to visit the Newcastle Museum. It consists of many interactive science exhibits, a pictorial history of Newcastle, a Coal Mine, BHP display complete with a light and sound show of pouring molten steel from a furnace into a large ladle. This show had the boys memorised. After lunch at the Dockyard we walked along Newcastle Harbour before boarding the train back to Maitland.

Tuesday Kathy and the boys were up early and on the road. Plan being to be back at May Downs by lunch time Wednesday. Joan and I did a shopping at Aldi, said our goodbyes to Annemarie and David, headed back out to Largs to repack the van and headed for Wellington Caves. We arrived in Wellington Caves just on 4:30pm. Kathy rang at about the same time to advise she had made it as far as Miles. She did arrive home next day about lunch time.

Postscript: During some of my downtime through the week I had a chance to scan some more of my parents photo albums providing not only a clearer timeline of family events but some great childhood and our early married life photos. My first introduction to caravanning apparently was when I was three (1957) and how could I forget the hair fashions mid 1980's.


Wellington, NSW

2017-09-27 to 2017-10-01

Wellington is a rural town in central NSW, located at the junction of the Macquarie and Bell Rivers. It is near Dubbo and is known as the location where the mountains and rivers meet. This fertile farming and pastoral district was discovered in 1817 by John Oxley and the town established 1823 resulting in convict, aboriginal and missionary history to be found around the district. Wellington is the second oldest NSW settlement west of the Blue Mountains. The Lion of Waterloo, one of Wellington's hotels was established in 1842 and is the oldest operating hotel west of the Blue Mountains, and is near the location of the last recorded duel fought on Australian soil in 1854.

Our base was the Wellington Caves Caravan Park, a council run park on the outskirts of town. It is a neat park with exceptionally large sites overlooking the golf course. It is easy to find, located just behind the Gateway Sculpture on the Mitchell Highway and adjacent to the Toyama Osawano Japanese Gardens. The Gateway Sculpture is a Day of the Triffids reminiscent art piece capturing the identity and spirit of Wellington and its people. The main structure is constructed from the girders of the old Wellington bridge that collapsed in 1989. If nothing else it certainly captures your attention. The Japanese garden was donated by the town's sister city Toyama and is a tranquil  traditional Japanese garden landscape with Japanese ornaments and a 4.5 metre stone lantern tower whilst incorporating some Australian trees. 

Wednesday was a domestic and maintenance day but Thursday we called by the Information Centre and headed out to the Burrendong Botanic Garden and Arboretum. What is an Arboretum? Well, as a zoo is to animals, an arboretum is to trees. An arboretum is a place where trees are grown for display and study. First impressions were not great, as the area was very dry, no trees in flower and it just looked like normal Australian bush. But as we started to explore the various tracks we started to realise it was segregated into seperate areas and a lot of work had gone into identifying and preserving this flora. In all, over 2500 species of native plants are on display over this 164ha property. The property is divided into six areas broadly labeled Fern Gully, Hakeas, Wattles, Casuarinas, Mallees and Prostantheras. The highlight being the man-made Rainforest in Fern Gully. A plaque commemorating the construction of the massive and impressive shade structure creating the rainforest environment makes tribute to collaboration with Professor Peter Spooner from the School of Landscape Architecture (UNSW). We also came across another echidna on one of our walks; the second echidna sighting this week. All up, an educational and enjoyable afternoon.

Friday, more bushwalking. This time at Mt Arthur Reserve. Once again the bush was very dry and no wild flowers although it was already spring. It was a moderate grade hike along the Apex Trail, to the summit of the mountain. Ningana Lookout overlooks Mount Wellesley. Further around, Bintang (meeting of the waters) Lookout provides excellent views of Wellington township and the junction of the Bell & Macquarie Rivers. On the descent we stopped off at Kalang (beautiful) Lookout providing a closer view of the Macquarie River.

Saturday was a little overcast but we spent the morning at Maynggu Ganai, a local historic convict and aboriginal site. From here we ventured to Cameron Park in search of Platypus. We walked along the Bell River but no sightings of the elusive semi aquatic egg laying mammal. After lunch we drove towards Dubbo to check out a potential free camping location for the return trip next April. What a find! Ponto Falls Reserve, about 8 klm off the Mitchell Highway. Three kilometres of dirt road, suitable for caravans. Large grassed areas adjacent to crystal clear running water of the Macquarie River. We definitely will be staying here next time. Coordinates are S32 27' 52", E148 49' 14". Note: Although called Ponto Falls it is really just rapids, no waterfall as implied by the name.

Sunday we slept in partly because we were late getting up but more so as it was the start of daylight savings in NSW so we lost an hour overnight. Eventually got mobile about midday but best laid plans ..... Had planned Sunday lunch at the Lion of Waterloo hotel. Arrived at 12:15pm to find it doesn't open till 4:00pm on a Sunday. Ah well plan B - ham and cheese sanga back at the van. We did make our way back to the Lion of Waterloo and enjoyed a late Sunday session in this friendly good vibe drinking house. Once a passenger stop for Cobb & Co, the Tavern is now hidden in a suburban street oozing old world charm. We got back to the van in time to watch the NRL grand final. Unfortunately it wasn't a fairy tale result for the Cowboys. The Storm were too dominant on the night and ran away with the win 34-6.

Note: Although Wellington is renowned for its Caves and in fact they were within 100m of our campsite, we elected not to visit them this time. Firstly we have already visited many caves over the years and as this was school holidays and the tours were heavily booked with children we thought it would be better to leave this experience for a quieter time we may be passing this way.

Monday (Labour Day holiday) we packed the van up and headed for Parkes to view the CSIRO radio telescope, enroute to our next stop West Wyalong.


West Wyalong - Devonport

2017-10-02 to 2017-10-14

On Monday we enjoyed a backroad country drive (Renshaw McGirr Way) from Wellington to Parkes Radio Telescope. This Observatory is home to the 64m Telescope that featured in the Australian iconic movie "The Dish". We had their recommended dish beef and red wine pie for lunch at the onsite cafe. Both the pie and coffee were excellent. After lunch we caught the 3D movies on offer in the Observatory before continuing our journey to West Wyalong. We camped at the West Wyalong Showgrounds staying two nights. The Showgrounds although a little dry was a great waypoint. There was not a lot to do or see in the surrounding area but we had a couple of excursions. Both ended up disappointing. The first was to Barmedman, a 32klm drive to  a mineral swimming pool, said to have health giving properties. It was a large pool situated on a four-hectare reserve, but it was completely empty; no water. We drove the 32 klm back into town then drove another 30 klm in the opposite direction heading for Lake Cowal, the largest inland lake in NSW. A nice drive but we could not access the lake. The Barrick Gold mine has extended its open cut operations and the access road appears to have been swallowed up. Ah well, back to town to the Lions Park to check out the Douglas DC3 and the Vietnam War Memorial.

Wednesday, back on the road. We stopped for lunch at a pleasant little park and information centre with a Tiger Moth airplane on display in Narrandera. After lunch we made our way to the NSW border town of Tocumwal and what a find. The primitive camp on the banks of the Murray River is absolutely brilliant. Potable water, toilets, cold showers, dump point and only $5/person/night. It is only a 900 metre walk along the river bank to the Main Street with a supermarket, baker, butcher, pubs, coffee shops and antique shops. Really friendly locals and great community. Thursday we visited the blowhole (a little underwhelming), the Murray River railway bridge (very interesting), finding some graffiti on one of the girders dated May 1929. This bridge was initially provided for road traffic only,  it was strengthened for rail traffic in 1908,  and was used for both road and rail traffic until November 1987. Friday was a windy overcast day, but we explored the Main Street, did some shopping and sent post cards to the grandkids. That evening we had a meal at the Palms Hotel. Saturday was also a windy day though I ventured out to the railway museum and along the Main Street to take some photos. I also crossed the bridge over the river into Victoria to get some photos of our campsite (in NSW) from Victoria.

Sunday we moved into Victoria, pulling up in Shepparton at the Secura Shepparton East Caravan Park; a good choice. Monday we located the Information Centre and then ventured out the Australian Botanic Gardens, a former landfill in the process of being regenerated into a showcase of Australian natives. Only early days but a great concept that will only get better as it develops and grows. From here we went to Victoria Lake Park and Aquamove, an indoor aquatic centre. Next stop was Monash Park, which showcases Moooving Art, a dynamic art project of a colourful fibreglass herd of cows, celebrating the local dairy industry. On the way home we stumbled upon a gold mine - the SPC factory sales - Aldi on steroids. A full selection of groceries and household consumables at attractive prices made even more attractive by multiple or carton buys. Could have gone berserk here but constant concern about towing weight and biosecurity measures entering Tasmania capped our desires to spend big.

Monday we started our preparation for Tasmania, washing the van and car. After lunch we visited the Shepparton Weir and Fish Steps. A series of rock walls built to provide a reliable river height for urban water extraction whilst still enabling fish to move up and down stream using the fishway as a ladder. The rest of the afternoon was spent at the Shepparton Art Museum (SAM) a small but impressive collection of artwork. Our favourite being Sam Jink's sculpture "Woman and Child".

Wednesday we took a run down to Murchison, a small village just south of Shepparton. Not of any particular interest other than the namesake of our Caravan. Not a lot there. We visited the Meteorite Park, but no meteorite there. We found some more colourful cows, had a great lunch at the Bakery and stopped and took some photos of the heritage listed Thornebridge Inn.

Thursday we drove the remaining 180klm to Melbourne staying at the Discovery park in Braybrook. We spent Friday securing the van and final cleaning in preparation for boarding the Spirit of Tasmania for a day ferry crossing from Melbourne to Devonport, Tasmania. We did a dry run Friday from the van park to Station Wharf in the car to ensure no hiccups Saturday morning.

Saturday morning we were up at 5am, departed the park just after 6am arriving, as planned, at the wharf just after 6:30am. We had no problems with vehicle and van inspection, no bio-security issues so lined up and were boarded and in the lounge by 8am, with the ferry departing on time at 9am with an ETA of 6:30 into Devonport. I am writing this as we approach the Port and we should be disembarking on time.


THE JOY OF HAVING PRIVATE GUIDES IN JAPAN

2017-10-12

THE JOY OF HAVING PRIVATE GUIDES IN JAPAN

BY GUEST BLOGGER PETER SPOONER

Self-guided tours don’t always mean going it alone. Peter and Joan spared two days in their itinerary to discover Japan’s unique culture and history with local private guides. International tour guides in Japan take extensive examinations to receive official status, so they know their stuff!

Me and my wife, Joan are roving retirees in the second year of our five year ‘Adventure before Dementia’ trip. Last September we took the Best of Japan self-guided tour with Inside Japan Tours.

Once we had agreed the ‘base’ itinerary for our trip with the team, we were provided with all of the transport passes, accommodation bookings, suggested local itineraries, and helpful information about our selected destinations.

The 15-day tour is self-guided, but we planned a private guide for our first day in Tokyo and Kyoto. We hoped that arranging these two days would help us to get a cultural induction to the country such as understanding Japanese protocols, and the local transport system. It would also give us the chance to ask advice for our time in other destinations.

On our first day we were met at 9am by private guide, Masa Hattori. He was well briefed on our background and expectations, and provided us with a well-paced and rewarding day with the right balance of history, culture and general information.

Afterwards, we had the skills and confidence to find our way around, and a much better understanding of Tokyo, its people and its history. We used this experience to navigate around Tokyo, before a self-guided experience around Hakone-Yumota.

At the halfway point of our holiday, we made our way to Kyoto for our first day with local guide, Takeshi Suzuki. After a punctual arrival at 9am we quickly agreed an itinerary; Inside Japan’s recommended ‘Perfect Day’.

Our full day of sightseeing included bombarding Suzuki-San with our never ending list of queries and observations; including a sense check on our wish-list of things to do in Hiroshima, Osaka, Takayama and final day in Tokyo.

The rest of the trip was as amazing as the first half. Japan is a stunningly beautiful country that truly exceeded all of our expectations. We found it so clean and incredibly safe. It’s really easy to find your way around and the systems are reliable and punctual; but if you do get stuck, everyone is friendly and willing to assist. In our downtime we tried an amazing array of good food, and found that there were a limitless number of quirky beer houses.

Conclusion

Hatori-san and Suzuki-san were patient and understanding and both went the extra yards to ensure we got the most out of our limited time. Our trip was enhanced by their generous sharing of information and we cannot overstate the benefits of their guidance. They allowed us to avoid the time-wasting and stress that can occur with independent travel, while maintaining the freedom and that feeling of accomplishment of self-guiding.

From our first contact with Patrick at Inside Japan, we felt happy to be dealing with a professional, experienced and service-orientated travel company. Now back in Australia we look back on our trip with fond memories. Together we have been fortunate enough to see some of the world and we hope to see a lot more over the coming years. Our travels can be followed on www.getjealous.com/pjspooner.

Thanks Patrick, Hattori-San and Suzuki-San.

Peter and Joan were guests on the Best of Japan self-guided tour. Contact our team to find out more about this tour, or add a day with a private guide to a self-guided itinerary.


Tasmania - Week 1 - NW Coast.​

2017-10-15 to 2017-10-22

We arrived at the Devonport Discovery Caravan Park about 7:00pm Saturday evening and had the van set up on a large level site well before dark. Disembarking the Spirit of Tasmania was straightforward, worming our way along the wharf and associated car parks with only a cursory inspection by Tasmanian bio-security officers as we edged towards the exit gate. The Discovery park turned out to be a good choice with modern clean amenities and friendly staff. We ended up staying here five nights.

Sunday Joan was still feeling a little unwell from motion sickness or perhaps a bug she picked up crossing Bass Strait, so we had a quiet day around the van only venturing out in the morning for a walk along the beach. Late afternoon we did the customary drive around town to get our bearings and find the Information Centre. It was closed so we ventured to Don and checked out the Don River Railway and their steam trains. We also took the opportunity to drive out to Don Heads

Monday we hit the Information Centre and thanks to a very helpful volunteer emerged with an armful of brochures and rough itinerary for the next few days. We immediately drove to the  Mersey Bluff Lighthouse known as 'The Hat' and walked around the clifftops. On the way back into town we visited the Spirit of the Sea statue- Neptune. After a grocery shopping to refill the refrigerator and pantry we retired back to the van as I was cooking something special today - slow cooked beef bourguignon. Haven't mentioned it previously but one of the other benefits of caravanning is it is giving me a chance to cook more and experiment in the kitchen. Joan is supportive and helpful and of course it gives me a chance to make up for all the years that Joan was the head chef. Glad to say that Monday night our van was the one with the food aromas making all the other campers envious. The leftovers were also great for lunch on Thursday.

Tuesday was a sunny morning so we made a beeline for Wynyard or more specifically, the Tulip Farm at Table Cape. What a magical colourful patch quilt landscape the many flowerbeds made stretched out across the landscape with Table Cape Lighthouse in the background. We spent a couple of hours walking through the flowerbeds enjoying the sights and perfume. A photographers delight. We had seafood for lunch on the wharf in Wynyard, calling into Penguin on the way home.

Wednesday was another big and sunny day. We ventured to Latrobe in the morning visiting and walking Pig Island, upstream on the Mersey River. We then headed for the Tasmanian Arboretum in Eugenana. Second arboretum in 2 months and what a day. A beautifully laid out Park with a lake and to our delight home to some very active platypus. It was the first time we had seen them in the wild and to say it was exciting would be an understatement. To top the day off we visited Lillico Beach after tea and had the privilege to watch little fairy penguins emerge from the sea and return to their burrows for the night. Another first and a really delightful evening. Wow, platypus and penguins, all in the wild and all on the same day.

Thursday was very wet and windy so we had a quiet day at home. I spent a couple of hours at the library (free wifi) updating apps and carrying out general iPad and photo maintenance. Friday we packed up camp and drove west to the lovely little fishing village of Stanley, nestled at the base of the Nut.

Friday, usual drill, found the Information Centre and then explored the town to get our bearings. Only difference this time is we did it on foot as not large enough to justify driving around. It is a beautiful and historic town, with an abundance of B&B's, coffee shops, craft and art shops. The beaches are sandy and they also have fairy penguins.

The main attraction though is the Nut which dwarfs the town; a sheer-sided bluff - all that remains of an ancient volcanic plug. A 400m walking track climbs to the summit (143m) of the Nut, or there is the option of a chairlift. We elected to do the walk. Half way up it threatened to rain but we reached the top without getting wet and then, as we are starting to experience in Tasmania, the sun came through and we spent the next hour doing the 2 klm circular walk around the top of the Nut taking in great views of Bass Strait, Stanley and Highfield House Historic Site. Highfield House, an imposing Georgian home was once the Van Diemen's Land Company's Managers' residence. It is open to the public and overlooks the town below. Stanley was the administrative centre for the Van Diemen's Land Company, a royal charter company, formed in 1824 during the reign of George IV. 

As luck would have it Highfield House was hosting a Garden Spectacular on Saturday, so after lunch we got to visit and view the gardens, the historic house and associated buildings. We also got to watch a bullock team at work and enjoy some local wine and boutique beer.

Sunday, Joan was up early and did a brisk walk/jog up, around and down the Nut. As it was a sunny morning I jumped in the car and went on an early morning photo safari. The remainder of the day was pretty lazy though we did go for a drive after lunch around the district. It's all very green and picturesque. Next week we will venture a little further into the north western extremities of Tassie.


Tasmania - Week 2 - NW Coast.

2017-10-23 to 2017-10-29

This week was a mixed bag. Lots of driving, wind, waterfalls and short walks. We were still based at Stanley with Arthur River and the Tarkine being our main points of interest, this week. Monday we set out for Smithton to start our assault on the what the brochures described as breathtaking wilderness, wild rivers and dramatic coastline. Because of the number of points of interest (POI) and the distance we decided to spread it over two days, completing the coastal section on day one and the rainforest on another day. The first stop was unplanned and at a commercial venture called the Dismal Swamp. An Eco-tourism centre, built on a sinkhole, originally set up by the Tasmanian government to showcase the unique qualities of the region and the wonders of a near pristine environment. The clincher for us was the 110 metre metal slide that delivers visitors from the entrance to the base of the sink hole. At the bottom is a series of boardwalks around the swamp. Educational but a little overpriced at $22 each. From here we drove to Marrawah, for lunch, then along the coast to West Point and eventually to Arthur River where we found the 'edge of the world'. It wasn't as dramatic as the name suggests but the ocean in the vicinity of the river mouth was certainly rough and threatening. We continued along the coast to Couta Rocks  before turning for home, inland via Kannunah Bridge, stopping off at Sumac Lookout which provided a majesric view of the the upper Arthur River. 

We had a quiet, domestic Tuesday morning in the van before heading out after lunch for Mawbanna, home of a big tree, Dip Falls and an interesting way to park old cars. An interesting drive through Tasmanian farmlands, had us eventually turning onto a good dry weather dirt road, across the Dip River and into a forest of big trees. A pleasant walk through the rainforest and then the dilemma of capturing the true perspective of this mammoth tree. Thanks Joan. We backtracked from here and were surprised by the two tier drop and rock formations that make up Dip Falls, which is only enhanced by the provision of a viewing platform at both the top and at the base of the falls. Well worth the drive. We were back at camp in time for an early tea and a stroll up the Nut to capture the sunset. It was a great walk though very cold and windy on the summit and not the best sunset, with some clouds on the horizon.

Wednesday we headed back to the Tarkine to complete what we started on Monday. We approached from the other end, stopping at a number of POI before finding  our way back to Kannunah Bridge, our last POI on Monday. The other POI included in this drive were:

This road eventually lead us back to the  Kannunah Bridge junction, so we headed home. Arriving home well before dark allowed me time to do a walk around town to photograph some of the many historic and colourful buildings in Stanley. Also had time to revisit the cemetery and partake in some geocaching. Yeah another find.

Thursday we broke camp and backtracked to Burnie, as we had the BT50 booked in for its 80,000 klm service the next day. We located a great free camp right on the waters edge at Cooee Point, and only 800m from the Mazada dealership. Thursday afternoon we called into the visitors information centre to plan our itinerary for Friday. Joan also took some time out to visit a hairdresser and I took care of the weekly shopping. Friday morning I dropped the car off for its service and thanks to a Mazda loaner we got to explore the surrounds of Burnie. First stop was Guide Falls, near Ridley. Another series of spectacular waterfalls, made all the better by the provision of viewing platforms and a riverside walk which also provided access to the base of one of the larger falls. Plenty of birdlife and we also stumbled upon a very devout photographer fully engrossed in his pursuit of the 'money shot'. From here we drove past the Emu Valley Rhododendron Garden, before making our way to Fernglade Platypus Reserve. Another great riverside walk with interpretative signs scattered along the riverbank. This walk is also listed as one of Tasmania's 60 Great Short Walks. Of course one of our goals is to complete this list during our stay. After picking up our car after lunch we headed to the library for free wifi to update our apps and iPad operating systems.

Saturday we had a leisurely morning. Free camping means no checkout time. Around lunchtime we packed the van up and headed towards Sheffield. Sheffield has no caravan park but does have a self-contained RV camp. We checked it out but decided to move onto Mole Creek. It was an interesting, if slow, trip around Mount Roland and down the Gog Range Regional Reserve to the quaint Mole Creek Caravan Park on Sassafras Creek. Lovely large grass sites on the banks of the creek. Think we will be staying here a few days. 

A great sleep Saturday night had us waking to an overcast and rather cold morning on Sunday. We decided to have a service day, so stayed at the van washing, doing other domestic chores and drafting this blog. The sun appeared a few times but doubt it got any warmer than about 12 degrees.

Until next time stay safe and happy.


Tasmania - Week 3 - NW Inland

2017-10-29 to 2017-11-05

Though it was relatively cold and miserable we did survive the weekend in Mole Creek. Hard to believe Mole Creek is only 18 kilometres from Paradise. Monday we woke to clearer skies and sunshine. We started exploring the surrounding areas. We doubled back to Sheffield via Railton - the town of Topiary. Topiary is the horticultural practice of training perennial plants by clipping the foliage and twigs of trees and shrubs to develop and maintain clearly defined shapes, whether geometric or fanciful. In the centre of Railton there was a fenced area with a number of topiary shapes on display. As we drove around town we found many more examples. 

By the time we got to Sheffield it had clouded over and was threatening to rain. We have visited here before but we were still keen to rediscover and admire their murals. We ventured into the Sheffield Hotel for lunch. Certainly enjoyed their $16 lunch special and the views of Mt Roland through the large windows in their dining room. The rain passed and we got to wander through mural park and around the main street. We also stumbled upon King George V Park, just off the main street and its path of ceramic art pieces. A local approached us and gave us a rundown on the park and some of its artistic treasures. 

Tuesday, another fine but cool day. We ventured to the Mole Creek Karst Conservation Area to trek into the Westmorland Falls. A fairly easy and enjoyable walk, through dense bush with some steep sections. We were also confronted with a number of muddy bogs that slowed progress and tested us on a few occasions. The Falls certainly justified the effort, being able to scramble right up to the base of the falls. Was also surprised at the number of shell fossils to be found in the rocky river bed. This whole area must have been under the ocean at some point in time. After lunch we drove to Deloraine to locate something entirely different - Pine Lake. A small alpine lake surrounded by rocky alpine terrain, small cushion plants and rare Tasmanian pencil pines, only found in the Tasmanian highlands. This 800 metre boardwalk is also one of Tassie's 60 Great Short Walks.

Wednesday morning we decided to tackle another local walking track to Lobster Falls, near the village of Chudleigh. Another leisurely and enjoyable walk through a rainforest high above the Lobster Rivulet. All was good until it was time to descend to the water level. The track become almost non existence, it was a very steep descent on loose wet rocks. We got to view the falls through the trees but elected to abandon any further efforts to get closer. It was still a good walk but glad we decided to retreat to Tulampunga for lunch and our planned afternoon walk to Alum Cliffs Lookout, high above the Mersey River. We have visited Alum Cliff before, back in 2006 but as it is now on the list of 60 Great Short Walks we decided to revisit to allow us to complete our goal of doing all the walks on the list, this trip. And glad we did because this time it was a warm afternoon and no wind. Last visit was overcast and very windy. It is a great walk and certainly deserves a place on this Tasmanian list.

One of the highlights of our 2006 trip to Tassie was our visit to Trowunna Wildlife Park at Mole Creek. We revisited here on Thursday. It has expanded since our last visit and their breeding program has been successful with a lot more wombats and Tasmanian Devils now on display. We arrived in time for the educational talk and feeding of the devils. It was a great interactive demonstration. Although it was clouding over we stayed after the tour and wandered around the park for another hour or so watching and enjoying the antics of the young Devils. From here we made our way to Deloraine, picking up a couple of pies and having lunch on the river bank. I enjoyed my first ever scallop pie and I can certainly recommend them. Yum! After lunch we did our weekly shopping at Woolworths and before heading back to Mole Creek we had a nostalgic moment enjoying a milk shake at the Crusin in the 50's Diner. A labour of love that has recreated a Happy Days styled diner with an unbelievable amount of fuel, oil and motor memorabilia faithfully restored.

Friday we relocated the van about 30 kilometres away to Gowrie Park. This put us within striking distance (50klm) of Cradle Mountain. It was overcast when we arrived. We set up camp, had lunch then put up the annex, as we do, so Joan can have some privacy when doing her morning exercise routine. Well no sooner had we erected the annex and the wind started. We weren't too concerned but an hour later the van was shaking and the wind was howling through. In a short lull we quickly dismantled the annex and hurriedly packed everything into the back of the car. Glad we did because next minute it started up with increased fury. A few gusts later it cleanly ripped the annex straight off the Jayce Expander parked behind us. The wind kept up most of the night. 

Saturday we woke to an overcast day and 1 degree. It was a miserable day all round. We did venture out in the afternoon for a run to Cradle Mountain but could not see much except a dusting of snow on the passing Mountains. Saturday evening the wind returned and was quite loud in the van and once again we were rocked to sleep.

Sunday woke to sunshine and blue skies. A perfect day for Cradle Mountain but unfortunately not to be. This day was the Peaks Challenge Cycle Race, Cradle Mountain leg, so no go. Instead we decided to tick off one of our Short Walks - Leven Canyon. Guess what; bloody bikes everywhere, roads closed all over the place. Leven Falls was 18 klm as the crow flies from our camp, 1 hour and 50 minutes later we got there. Regardless we ended up having a great day at Leven Canyon. Two spectacular lookouts, 697 steps down through the forest and then on another walk another 272 steps down to the canyon floor. Hoping for a short run home, but no luck, roads still closed and bike riders around every corner so we retraced our steps the long way home. Good news is great weather forecasted for tomorrow and we are planning to walk Cradle Mountain.

Until next time stay happy and safe.


Tasmania - Week 4 - NW Inland

2017-11-06 to 2017-11-12

What a week! In the main beautiful days, clear blue sky, very little wind resulting in lots of walking, some waterfalls, unfortunately a few actual falls, and an abundance of wildlife. All in all, almost a perfect week. 

Monday we headed straight for Dove Lake, walking the 6klm Dove Lake Circuit, clockwise. This has to be one of the best walks anywhere. It is an easy walk around a pristine lake with great views from Glacier Rock, all the while the towering spires of Cradle Mountain loom above. It is a photographers dream, not to mention the iconic Boat Shed. All praise to Joan who hung in patiently until I got my people-free shot of the boat shed. Not an easy thing to do. We drove back to Ronny Creek to have our picnic lunch. We were harassed by the usual scavenging birds but also were joined by a wombat grazing on the surrounding grass.  After lunch we drove up to Waldheim Chalet. Waldheim is regarded as the father of Cradle Mountain National Park. We set off on foot along the boardwalk, through the buttongrass moorland before climbing up past Crater Falls to Crater Lake. This is as far as we climbed that day, heading back to the car via Wombat Pool and Lake Lilla. All up about 13 klm of easy to moderate walking. Returning through the buttongrass we were rewarded with numerous wombat sightings. I was further rewarded on returning to Gowrie Park as I went in search of a nearby geocache and found it without too much difficulty.

Tuesday (Melbourne Cup Day), we packed up in the morning and relocated the caravan 400 metres up the road to O'Neill's Creek Picnic Reserve in Gowrie Park, a low cost ($5) camping area. And what a gem, with Mt Roland as a backdrop and for the majority of the time we had the whole place to ourselves. As we were experiencing some issues with our Drifter unit (battery management system) Tuesday ended up a service day and we didn't stray from the van. Could not resolve the Drifter issue (public holiday in Melbourne) but was not too concerned, confirmed batteries were still charging and water pump was working just no information showing on the dashboard. 

Wednesday another blue sky perfect day; we arrived at Cradle Mountain just after nine. The intent today was to complete a few short walks we didn't have time to enjoy Monday and then conquer the walk to Marions Lookout. We warmed up with  a quick stroll around the Enchanted walk, coming across a tiger snake sunning itself beside the boardwalk. We then crossed the road and completed the next walk, to the top of Pencil Pine Falls. From here we then trekked to the bottom of Pencil Pine Falls, took our selfie photo and then moved onto Knyvet Falls. It was time to relocate to Ronny Creek and start our assault on Marions Lookout. Arriving at the Ranger Station we discovered access restricted to buses only, due to the number of vehicles/visitors that day. We had smoko hoping the situation would change. It didn't, so we succumbed to catching a bus into Ronny Creek, the trailhead for our walk. We retraced our steps from Monday climbing to Crater Lake and then continued up the Overland Track climbing the rock face to Marions Lookout (1223m). Although I carry a backpack I have a bad habit of carrying my camera over my right shoulder. We were almost at the summit when I slipped over some loose stones. First fall of the week. No real damage to me but did chip the rim of my camera lens. The summit was spectacular and really worth the effort. Glad we did it. It was almost 5 o'clock when we clambered back on the bus to head back to the carpark. Like Monday there were many wombats grazing on the moorland during our descent.

Thursday we decided to stay in Gowrie Park another day. This time I did get to speak with someone at Setec and with their help and some further diagnosis I located and fixed the problem with the battery management system. As we were getting low on supplies we decided to move onto Deleraine, the next day.

Friday before packing up we went for a walk up O'Neills Creek. Joan wanted to show me some 'neat' wooden bridges the locals had improvised for creek crossings. Whilst clambering down the creek bed to get that magic shot of Joan standing on a wooden bridge I slipped on a rock and fell in the creek. A little bark off my arm but my camera survived but the worst of it, I was soaking wet. Yes it was bloody cold. On route to Deloraine we stopped off at Railton (town of Topiary) for lunch and was pleased to see that much of the foliage and trees around town had been manicured and a lot of the green shapes around town looked much better than the week before, when we passed this way. Once we were settled into the Deloraine Apex Caravan Park on the banks of Meander River we headed off to Woolworths to do our weekly shop. 

Saturday we had another one of the 60 short walks in our sights - Meander Falls. We completed it but it was our hardest and most gruelling walk so far. All up it took us 6 hours to complete. The 5 klm trek in, was not that steep, but it did involve clambering over rocks and boulders for most of the climb. We followed the river all the way up and there was some spectacular rapids, swimming holes and small falls along the way. It was only about 200m from the falls I has a lapse of concentration whilst crossing a number of boulders and tripped, falling ungracefully and skinning both shins and knuckles. A lot of blood but no real damage. Surprisingly my camera had a good knock but no apparent damage. We pushed on to the Falls. Unfortunately the Falls were not as spectacular as we expected but certainly a long drop. We elected not to climb to the top. To late, too sore and too tired. I did however brave the ice cold water to wash/bath my legs. The return walk was a little quicker, nevertheless still taxing. At one point I did catch my foot between a rock and a tree root, resulting in a relatively soft landing yet again on the ground. Fortunately I had learnt my lesson and camera was safely stowed in my backpack.

Today, is Sunday and I am sitting in shade of the annex of the caravan writing this blog watching the antics of the ducks on the Meander River and waiting for the platypus to come out to play. Pleased to report slept well last night and although some impressive scabs and scars no real damage and no soreness this morning. We live to be stupid another day. 


Tasmania - Week 5 - NW + NE Inland

2017-11-13 to 2017-11-19

A few weeks ago we were, according to a road sign only 18klm from Paradise. This week I think we found paradise in the form of a town - Deloraine. We were parked on the banks of the Meander River, about 300m from the main drag - Emu Bay Rd.

Monday we ticked off another of the Tasmanian 60 Great Short Walks. We took the long drive around through Hadley and took the backroads climbing up the unsealed road to Liffey Falls. About 2 klm from the Falls we came across two young hitch hikers. Something you do not see very often these days. We rearranged some items from the back seat to the canopy area and gave them a lift. A young French couple nearing the end of their 9 month Australian Adventure.

Liffey Falls was everything the brochures had promised. An easy enjoyable walk through the forest past a number of cascades before reaching the main event, with lookouts at both the top of the falls and at the base. The bonus being we could scramble across the rocks to the base of the falls providing some great photo opportunities. On return to the carpark we made the effort and walked the extra 100m to view the Big Tree. Looks like every location in Tassie boasts a Liffey Falls was everything the brochures had promised. An easy enjoyable walk through the forest past a number of cascades before reaching the main event, with lookouts at both the top of the falls and at the base. The bonus being we could scramble across the rocks to the base of the falls providing some great photo opportunities. On return to the carpark we made the effort and walked the extra 100m to view the Big Tree. Looks like every location in Tassie boasts a big tree. You guessed it; our French couple were waiting at the exit of the carpark so we gave them a lift, 6 klm,  back to the bitumen (highway) were they planned to camp that night.

Tuesday was Joan’s birthday and we woke to a beautiful day. After a late breakfast we walked through the park along the Meander River and eventually doubling back to Emu Bay Road taking our time walking up one side of the street checking out the shops and galleries along the way. We walked as far as the Information Centre. At the Info Centre we stocked up on brochures and post cards before heading back into town and down the other side of the street, stopping at the Empire Hotel enjoying a fish and chip lunch at Cycle@theempire Cafe. After lunch we continued our gallery shopping expedition. Last and best shop of the day being Seppenfelt’s.

Wednesday, another perfect day. Morning spent on domestic duties, washing, cleaning, shopping list plus trip to library to update apps and operating system. The afternoon we launched the kayak into the Meander River and spent a couple of hours paddling upstream to a small set of rapids and then downstream as far as the weir on the northern edge of town. A perfect day ended having happy hour with our neighbours Ruedi & Edwina watching a platypus frolic in the river behind us. 

Thursday was very windy but we ventured out at lunchtime to drive to Elizabeth Town to visit the Ashgrove Cheese factory. A short and enjoyable drive, rewarded with a generous farmers cheese board for lunch. Returned to the Deloraine library late afternoon to successfully update IOS 11 on by iPad.

Friday morning we packed up camp after a week in this great location and relocated 56klm to Old Mac’s RV Farmstay in Norwood, Launceston. After lunch we established our bearings then knocked over another Great Short Walk; Hollybank Conservation Reserve, 20 minutes north of Launceston. A beautiful but puzzling location. A wood lot with Ash and Pine trees. The Ash trees originally planted as a wood supply for cricket bats and tennis rackets. There are now spacious picnic facilities, a number of good walking tracks and some deserted timber buildings that appear to have been established as information and timber centric displays. The Reserve now also hosts a mountain bike park and shares its tree tops with a zip-lining venture. We enjoyed the short walk.

Saturday up early and into town to share the delights of the Community Farmers Market. Truely worth the effort, fresh fruit and veggies, large array of herbs, meats, fish, coffee and finger food. Park close and take baskets or bags if intending to buy produce as it all looks and smells good and fresh. From here we took the short drive to Cataract Gorge Reserve. Had visited here in 2006 but it was a blue sky perfect day for catching the chairlift across the basin, crossing Alexandra Suspension Bridge and retracing our steps to Duck Reach Power Station. You guessed it, another one of the 60 Great Short Walks. We completed all the walks by lunchtime so headed back into town enjoying a quesadilla at Zambrero’s for lunch before heading off to Penny Royal for a real treat - a blackberry and raspberry ice cream cone. Life is good! 

Sunday a late breakfast, a lazy sunny morning in the annex writing this blog, researching things to see, places to go and updating some travel metrics.

On the road this leg.             112 days

Number of camping spots.     28 off

Kilometres travelled - car.    9,746 klm

Kilometres travelled - van.   5,985 klm

Fuel consumed.                   1,482.4 ltr

Average cost/ltr.                    126.37 cpl

Average consumption.          15.21 ltr/100 klm

Sunday afternoon we ventured out to north Launceston to Tamar Island’s Wetland Interpretation Centre consisting of 1.5klm of timber boardwalks and 4 bridges spanning 4 islands in the Tamar River. There was a wide range of plant and bird life to be seen. Unfortunately there were some fires behind Launceston so views of the Tamar Valley were a little hazy. On the way home we stopped at the Launceston City Park to see and watch the antics of the Japanese Macaque Monkeys housed there. They did not disappoint. The bonus being a number of baby monkeys have been added to the troop, providing further photo opportunities.

The last  metric, for this week, concerns our goal of completing the Tasmanian 60 Great Short Walks before we leave the Apple Isle. As of today we have been in Tassie for 35 days and including Tamar Island, we have completed 14 Walks. This equates to one walk every 2.5 days. Might have to up the ante a little, to ensure we complete the remaining 46 walks.


Tasmania - Week 6 - NE Inland + NE Coast

2017-11-20 to 2017-11-26

Cannot believe it is Sunday already and I am sitting in the annex again recapturing the week. Today we are in Low Head on the NE coast. It has been a very rewarding week though it is raining today and is forecasted to continue all day. This is actually a good thing as we are told the eastern districts are in drought. This is not obvious to us Queenslanders as the landscape still looks extremely green.

This week has been a little different, we stopped to smell the roses, did not do many walks, did not tick off any Tasmanian Short Walks but did find time to sample beer and enjoy some more Tasmanian cheese and wine.

Monday we did a short excursion to historic Evandale. We stayed here in 2006 at Solomon’s Cottage. One of the many B&B’s in Evandale. It is a quaint little village stuck in an 1800’s time warp with lots of Arts & Crafts, gift shops and eateries. We walked the Main Street, visited the John Clover statue, the Time Machine, had a picnic lunch in the park and then headed towards Longford to the Historic Woolmers Estate (Circa 1817), which is now National Heritage listed. We spent close on two hours doing the self guided tour taking in buildings, magnificent views of the Macquarie River, collections, artefacts, machinery and gardens. The highlight for me being the 1913 Wolseley car in original condition. Annexed to Woolmers Estate, is the National Rose Garden, spectacular in spring with thousands of roses in bloom. We spent a long time in this formal rose garden with the many different varieties on show. An incredible array of colour and perfume. I am no gardener but I did appreciate the spectacle and the work that has gone into this project. The Kitchen garden also invoked good memories of days gone by. A garden my father would have inspired to replicate.

Tuesday we returned to Cataract Gorge to walk the zig-zag track back to King’s Bridge and then return by the much easier riverside path. Both tracks provided many spectacular views and photo opportunities of the Tamar River and the Gorge. We also recorded a geocache find on this return walk. For lunch we treated ourselves to the James Boag experience. A $10 paddle of beers, consisting of a draught beer, XXX Ale and Wizard Smith Ale. The beer was paired with three superb Tasmanian cheeses, some crackers and walnuts. This was all enjoyed in the sunny beer garden at the rear of this classic hotel, which also houses the James Boag museum. The remainder of the day involved mundane domestics duties and shopping.

Wednesday we packed up camp and made our way 65klm north to Low Head, booking into the East Beach Caravan Park. After setting up camp we visited the Low Head Light House and then as is protocol, located the Visitor Information Centre. The friendly volunteers loaded us up with brochures and suggestions to keep us occupied for the next few days. 

Thursday morning was consumed with domestic duties and washing, as is always the case after low cost camping (no power). Thursday afternoon after a frustrating hour on the phone to the Post Office call centre we made a return trip to Launceston to collect voting papers for the Queensland State Election taking place this weekend. Good news was documents were there, we voted then returned to Low Head via the western Tamar Highway, taking in the Batman Bridge on the return trip. I have always liked the design of this bridge.

Friday it was time to explore the surrounding area and explore we did. We stumbled upon Bridport and what a find. Looks like we have found our next waypoint. Lovely town with a number of magnificent beaches. From Bridport we moved onto Scottsdale. Another interesting town, with a free camp that has toilets, hot showers, potable water and a dump point. Next stop was Bridestowe Lavender Estate. Unfortunately the lavender is still about a month away from flowering so we missed the purple sea haze. Bonus being free entry to ponder what it would look like and visit their gift shop. During bloom time visitors are subjected to a gate charge. We pushed on to Lilydale for a short two stage walk to a couple of picturesque waterfalls and some good photo opportunities. It was time to head for home but not before calling into the Bay of Fires Winery at Pipers River, to sample and purchase some of their merchandise.

Saturday morning was overcast so we took the opportunity to research and secure potential camping spots for Christmas and New Year as we have not booked anywhere as yet and word is van sites will be hard to get. The word was right as initial enquires had no sites available. Perseverance paid off and by midday had secured 7 nights at St Helens (Bay of Fires) over Christmas and Tribunna (Maria Island) for New Years. Looks like a plan. A good plan! After lunch the sun came out and we went for a walk to the Low Head Pilot Station. 

It is now late Sunday afternoon and it is still raining. We have had a pretty lazy but relaxing day. Until next time take care, stay safe and be happy.


Tasmania - Week 7 - NE Coast

2017-11-27 to 2017-12-03

We are still making our way eastward along the north coast of Tasmania. Been a quiet week but an enjoyable one with a few surprises and three days of rain. Cannot complain about the rain as east Tassie is very dry and in need of rain. We are currently camped at the beautiful beachside town of Bridport, but let’s recapture the week.

Monday turned out to be a warm mainly clear sunny day. We decided to pack lunch and explore the western Tamar. We backtracked over the Batman Bridge spanning the Tamar River, turned right and headed for Beaconsfield. This is the beautiful little town that made national headlines Anzac Day 2006 when the Beaconsfield Gold Mine collapsed with 17 people working underground. Fourteen escaped immediately, one (Larry Knight) was killed and the 2 remaining miners, Brant Webb and Todd Russell were rescued on 9 May 2006, two weeks after being trapped nearly a kilometre below the surface. The mine did reopened but closed again 2012. There is now a souvenir shop and mine museum on the site.

From here we made our way to the historic site of York Town. There is not much there today, but it was a British settlement from 1804 - 1808. The first settlement in Northern Tasmania. We walked around a paddock lined with information plaques and a monument. We checked out a low cost camp and then moved onto Greens Beach. As with many locations along this coast a beautiful sandy pristine beach with some great views back to Low Head lighthouse. We found a shady picnic table for lunch. After lunch we drove 30  minutes west to Springlawn, part of the Narawntapu National Park. Main objective for today was to complete another of the prescribed Short Walks. 

This was a fairly easy walk around a Lagoon through a paper bark swamp forest. We peeled off near the end of the walk and climbed a couple of sand dunes till we arrived at a another long deserted pristine beach, which we found out later to be Bakers Beach. Another discovery today was that Springlawn NP visitors centre also has powered van sites with full amenities. Might call in here on our return trip to Devonport on the homeward leg.

Tuesday morning was spent at the Georgetown Library updating Apps and uploading photos. For lunch we ventured to Georgetown Seafood on the recommendations of locals. It was good but not the best seafood we have had in Tasmania. After lunch we ventured back to west Tamar to visit Seahorse World at Beauty Point. We visited here in 2006 and wanted to repeat the experience. Glad we did. Something special about seahorses and the crew here  provide a very comprehensive , educational but relaxed tour of the facility. We certainly enjoyed it and captured some magic photos of many of the sea creatures housed here. 

Wednesday was a warm sunny day. In the morning we relocated the van to Bridport Seaside Caravan Park, some 61 klm east of Low Head. Wandered around town in the early afternoon. Spent the remainder of the day pottering around the van and annex.

Thursday morning was taken up with van maintenance. Somehow the bedside drawer housing all the battery charges was jamed locked. Two hours later the latch was disassembled and replaced. Life goes on; iPads, iPhones and camera can once again be recharged. On the outskirts of Bridport are two iconic golf links known as the Barnbougle Golf Links. Both links are considered world class. The first is The Dunes and the other is called Lost Farm. Both utilise the many sand dunes and acres of marram grass along this coastal strip. Each course has its own clubhouse and a selection of cottages and lodges for accommodation. We just visited to have a look and admire the views back along the beach onto Bridport. The afternoon was a little hazy but still impressive. So was the coffee.

Friday we woke to rain and it rained all day. Had a quiet day in the annex uploading, backing up and archiving photos. Did have a pleasant surprise just before lunch. A friend, Garry Dunkinson from our Middlemount days holidaying in Tassie along with his sister and brother in-law, knew we were in Tassie but not exactly where. They were in a hire car driving from St. Helens to Launceston driving through Bridport when Garry spotted our kayak on the roof of a BT-50 parked in the van park. He called in, on the off chance, it was us and it was. What’s the odds? It was good to catch up and swap travel stories. Friday night Joan and I enjoyed a fantastic seafood meal at the Bridport Bunker Club (RSL).

Saturday rained again all day. Gave us a chance to surf the net and order christmas presents for the kids and grandkids. Sunday still overcast but we decided to drive to Tomahawk to check out the van park there. We have read both good and bad reviews for this waypoint. Good news is it looks like a great place, so that will be our next stop. We drove home via Gladstone where we had a gigantic lunch in the pub and located another free camp. The other highlight was calling into Little Blue Lake. It is a natural phenomenon resulting from the pioneering mining days of South Mount Cameron and the surrounding areas of the Far North East of Tasmania. Originally a mine hole, the lake reflects a vivid aqua blue from the minerals in its base. The locals do swim in it but it is not recommended due to the high mineral content in the water.

Let’s hope tomorrow is sunny. It is now summer and time to start swimming.


Tasmania - Week 8 - NE Coast + NE Corner

2017-12-04 to 2017-12-10

Due to wind and showery weather this week we seemed to have spent a lot of time in the van. Because of the wind we stowed the annex on Tuesday, retreated to the van and it has remained stowed all week. However with the sun breaking through the clouds most afternoon’s we did manage to get out and about to explore the NE corner of Tassie. We started the week in Bridport with plans to relocate to Tomahawk on Wednesday but with the continuing dodgy weather we abandoned the Tomahawk plan and decided to spend an extra day in Bridport before moving further east to Gladstone, our revised base for exploring the NE corner and the Mt William National Park. 

Bridport is only a small community but it has developed a series of walking tracks that circumnavigate the township. There are three seperate walks; the beachfront walk, the river walk and the wildflower walk. Combined they total 11 klm and showcase the many facets of this wonderful beachside destination. Joan had been running these tracks each morning as part of her exercise regime and was keen to share. So Monday although overcast we headed out after lunch, climbed the road through town to the golf course and walked the wildflower walk to Granite Point overlooking Adams Beach. It was a pleasant walk but not many wildflowers on show. At Granite Point the wildflower walk morphs into the beach walk so we got to view our first group of orange lichen-covered granite boulders, that East Tasmania especially the Bay of Fires is renowned for. On this walk home we also got to visit Mermaids Pool, still too cold to go swimming, plus Mattingleys and Gofton Beaches. Tuesday afternoon we continued the beach walk south to the port before crossing the road and starting the Brid River walk which winds its way around the back of town crisscrossing the river before delivering us back to the start of the wildflower trailhead from yesterday. Walking back down the hill into town we got to appreciate the beauty of Anderson Bay and Barnbougle Beach. Obvious why this area is a popular summer destination. 

Wednesday was a miserable windy overcast day. The only time we ventured away from the van was to seek out some wi-fi to update apps and do a weekly shopping.

Thursday morning woke to blue skies and sunshine. Didn’t take us long to relocate the 60 klm to Gladstone, a small village with a corner store, pub and a population of about 1,000 residences. The attraction here, other than the free camp behind the community hall, being the gateway to Mt William NP and the NE tip of Tasmania. After lunch we headed to Musselroe Bay a small fishing village at the northern extremity of the Mt William NP. From here we worked our way down Stumpys Bay checking out all the NP camping sites along the way. Most of the roads in this area are gravel but are good dry weather roads and would have no problem towing the van here. It is very isolated with kilometres of uninhabited beaches. The camp sites are right on the beach but very basic with no amenities, water or firewood. Time limits are generous providing for a maximum stay of 28 nights. It is suggested however that only vans less than 6 metres should be considered. We drove back to Gladstone via Forester Kangaroo Drive and Mt William. Thursday evening we joined our fellow campers for happy hour at the Gladstone Hotel.

Friday we packed lunch and headed for Eddystone Point, the southern end of Mt William NP. Once again good dry weather dirt roads. First stop was the Eddystone Point Lighthouse, a striking tower constructed of local granite sitting on a point that juts out into the sea. We spent about an hour exploring this coastline and admiring the colours of the ocean and more of the orange lichen-covered granite boulders predominant along this coastline. We also got the first glimpse of the white sandy beaches of the Bay of Fires. We drove a little further north into the NP stopping at Deep Creek camp grounds for lunch. Another idyllic camping location where it would be possible to drop off the grid. After lunch we left the NP and drove to Ansons Bay. A lot of houses here but not very appealing to us, though did note the sheltered bay would be a great place to go kayaking. That night we ventured back to the Gladstone Hotel for happy hour and what turned out to be a great meal of steak and scallops in a curry sauce.

Saturday we woke to more wind. In fact very strong wind. By lunch time it had blown all the clouds away so we decided to visit the wind farm at Little Musselroe Bay on Cape Portland. This is the most NE tip of Tasmania, or very close to it. No surprises why they built a wind farm here because on this day the wind was relentless to the point it was difficult to open the car doors. It was however, only a 25 minute drive and well worth the effort with spectacular views of Bass Strait, the Tebrakunna Visitor Centre and the 56 Vestas V90-3MW wind turbines, with a total generating capacity of 168 MW, scattered around the neighbouring country side.

Sunday we had planned to move a little further south to Branxholm. As is customary on moving day, clear blue skies, sun shining and no wind. It did not take long to break camp and relocate the 60 klms. By lunch time we had settled into the Branxholm free camp. After lunch we headed off to complete the Evercreech Forest walk, one of 60 Short Walks. We haven’t completed one of these self-imposed walks since Low Head so need to play a little catch up. Another series of dirt roads landed us the Evercreech Forest Reserve. Turned out to be a very easy walk but did deliver something unique; four magnificent trees know as the ‘white knights’ - the tallest white gums in the world. A little late getting back to base so picked up pizza and currently sitting here enjoying beer and pizza for tea. The other goods news being we have the whole campsite to ourselves. 

We have a big week planned ahead so hope yours is just as exciting.


Tasmania - Week 9 - NE Corner + East Coast

2017-12-11 to 2017-12-17

Woke Monday in Branxholm to sun and blue skies. Had a big day planned with three short walks and a cheese factory in our sights. We headed down the highway towards Pyengana with the first planned stop being the Goblin Forest Walk, part of the Blue Tier. En route we encountered the site of the now defunct Anchor Tin Mine. There is a track leading into the Anchor Stampers Wall. The mine closed in 1950 and the forest has now reclaimed the area. The waterwheel that drove the original stampers in the 1880’s (recorded as the largest in Tasmania) was an estimated 20m in diameter, 1.34m wide and weighed 100 tonnes. It was used to power a 40-head stamper battery. The battery at the site now consists of 2 sets of 10-head stamps. The forest is slowly taking it over. Forestry have constructed a boardwalk to gain access to the stampers. Moving on from here we ended up back at Pyengana without ever finding the Goblin Forest. As it was now lunch time we decided to leave the Goblin Forest for another day.

The Pyengana Dairy also incorporating the Holy Cow Cafe was a unique experience. Not only a great cheddar cheese tasting and scrumptious cheese platter for lunch but we got to watch a robo dairy in action. That is state of the art milking robots. Smart tagged dairy cows make their own way in their own time to the milking shed and a series of gates lead them to the milking area where a robotic milking machine relieves the cow of her milk burden, without human intervention. The Cow then has a measured prepared feed and is then directed out of the shed back to the paddock to graze until the next time it decides it needs milking. 

From here we drove 30 minutes up to Saint Columba State Reserve and then walked a short track to the base of St Columba Falls. The Trail Head claimed this to be the highest waterfall in Tasmania with a drop of 90 metres. There was not a lot of water coming over the Falls but obvious it would be impressive after good rain. We pushed on from here to Mount Victoria Forest Reserve. This was another 30 minute drive, this time on a gravel road through some high rough country with a lot of forestry activity. The walk into Ralph’s Falls was relatively easy and the streaming ribbon of water making up this falls is claimed to plunge 100 metres into a fern-filled chasm. So much for Columba Falls holding the record. From here we backtracked through Ringarooma and Legerwood, familiar territory from our visit the previous day to the Evercreech Forest.

Tuesday another sunny day. In the morning I slipped into Scottsdale to do a weekly shopping. Whilst there I drove out to Bridestowe Lavender to hopefully see a sea of purple. Not quite a sea of purple but the lavender crop had certainly turned with a mauve tinge across the fields with patches of purple. Still some good photos. Apparently the purple sea will not be at full bloom till around Christmas week. After lunch we drove about 3 klm out of Branxton to see the remains of the Briseis Water Race. This 48 klm, hand built race, with four metre deep cuttings through solid rock carried water from Ringarooma, through Branxholm to supply the Briesis Tin Mine at Derby. It was built between 1901 and 1902. Today much of the race is overgrown and inaccessible but fortunately this section near Branxholm has been set aside as a walking track. On the return trip back to Centennial Park, our campgrounds for this week in Branxholm we checked out the local timber mill and hops farms; timber and hops being the adopted industries after the demise of tin mining.

Wednesday afternoon we ventured back to Derby to visit the Derby Tunnel. After a short walk behind the town we found what looked like a cave. Once inside the cave entrance it is obvious it is a man-made tunnel. It was built in the late 1800’s to wash away tailings from the Tin Mine site. It took four years to construct and stretches about 600 metres. We did not venture to far in as we did not have the right equipment and no-one knew we were there. On the way back to Branxton we stopped off at the cemetery to check out the old headstones. Found a few but surprisingly no Chinese graves. Turning back onto the highway we made a spur of moment decision to visit the Mt Paris Dam, signposted opposite the cemetery. It was a 13klm gravel road before spotting an old sign pointing to the dam site. We turned off and travelled about 400 metres along a rough stony track before coming across a concrete spillway almost totally overgrown by the forest. When is a dam not a dam? Walking down hill from the car there was a unique concrete structure now surrounded by wilderness and slowly being overgrown; a sight one must see to believe. Research has revealed it was a reinforced concrete slab-and-buttress dam wall with a length of 250 metres, and a maximum height of 16 metres. The construction of the dam was very unique in that it was built entirely by hand, the only mechanical assistance provided was by petrol-driven concrete mixers and tip trucks which delivered blue metal and sand to the site. With the closure of the last tin mine in 1961 maintenance on the Dam ceased and in 1985 The Rivers and Water Supply Commission blasted a hole in the base of the dam wall to allow the natural flow of the Cascade River to occur once more.  It was rather eerie to see this massive man-made structure slowly being reclaimed by nature.

The other part of this story the car sustained a puncture (our first this trip) on the drive in, so we had to spend about 40 minutes unloading the car and putting the spare on before heading back to camp. 

Next morning we got the punctured tyre repaired and reinstated on the rear wheel before decamping and relocating to Scamander a beautiful beach town on the east coast. That afternoon I had my first dip the ocean since arriving in Tasmania. It was cold, short but enjoyable. Although we are planning to spend a week here we abandoned the caravan Friday morning and drove 100 klm south to the Freycinet National Park to visit Wineglass Bay and pamper ourselves with a night at the Freycinet Lodge. Freycinet is pronounced Fray-si-nay.

It was a scenic drive stopping off at Four Mile Creek, lunching in Coles Bay before heading to the National Park to walk to the Wineglass Bay Lookout. This iconic location was postcard perfect and ticks off another short walk off our list. We were surprised to see the Diamond Princess cruise ship visiting the bay. The Lodge, the food and the experience was certainly worth the drive and a short break from caravan life. The panoramic views of Coles Bay and Great Oyster Bay were beyond impressive.

Saturday morning after checking out of The Lodge we completed the Cape Tourville short walk providing another view of Wineglass Bay and Mount Freycinet. From here we walked along the white sands of Friendly Beach.  Another two short walks down making a total of five this week. On the return trip to Scamander we stopped off at the Bicheno Blowhole before enjoying a fish and chips dinner at the Bicheno wharf. 

Sunday was a lazy day around the van. Joan did the washing and cleaned the van whilst I busied myself writing this blog.

Until next week stay happy and safe.


Tasmania - Week 10 - Scamander, St Helens and beyond

2017-12-18 to 2017-12-24

After our little escape and special treat at Freycinet Lodge last week we returned to reality at Scamander. After the weekend away we had some housekeeping and mundane paperwork to take care of, so Monday was a quiet morning in and around the van. After lunch although a little windy we ventured out for a walk around Scamander and along the beach. Too cold to go swimming but a really nice beach. Not quite the white sands of Friendly Beachs at Freycinet but kilometres of deserted coastline with clear turquoise water, a continuous sand dune buffering us from the wind and a continuous line of the most sea shells I have ever seen in one place scattered the entire length of beach, highlighting the high tide mark.

We didn’t walk the entire beach but far enough to spark our interest in the village on the next Headland. It was about a twelve kilometres drive to discover the idyllic little seaside settlement of Falmouth with its cliff top houses with million dollar views across the Tasman Sea. Nothing here but sea and sand and magnificent views. An internet search summarises Falmouth as “a small holiday resort village which is really nothing more like a collection of attractive houses on a low cliff top with excellent views along the coastline. This strange, non-town feel is a result of the district being owned by two families who had no real enthusiasm for the growth of a settlement”. I liked it.

Tuesday we went a little further afield and backtracked to  Bicheno to visit the Douglas-Apsley National Park to complete the Aspley River Waterhole and Gorge circuit walk. Another walk on our list of walks to complete. The Waterhole looked inviting but too cold. The walk to the gorge was pleasant and not too difficult but a few steep sections. The Gorge did not have a lot of water running through it and was very rocky. Had the entire place to ourselves. Enjoyed our picnic lunch and walk around. Decided to return to the carpark by the same track we trekked in as the dry rocky riverbed did not look very appealing and decided it would be too slow and dangerous for the return trip. We passed a few other hikers coming in, on our way out, and when we got back to the car park found some park rangers writing breach notices for vehicles not displaying park passes. We had nothing to fear with our annual pass clearly displayed on the windscreen.

We always planned to return home via the inland road through St Marys and glad we did. Turning off the Tasman Highway onto the Elephant Pass Road we were intrigued by a billboard advertising the world famous Mt Elephant Pancake Barn. A quirky little restaurant perched near the summit of Mt Elephant that specialises in pancakes and as it turns out have very friendly staff, really quick service and the most trusting business owner we have ever encountered. The venue has an impressive array of knick-knacks, posters and blackboard art. After adjusting to the visual overload we were welcomed and ushered to a table. Before ordering we noticed the “NO EFTPOS, Cash Only’ sign. Explaining our dilemma of recently being converted to the “Tap & Go” mentality, the owner quickly responded “Not a problem, give me your order I will give you a stamped addressed envelope and when you get to the next town stop at an ATM get some money and post it back to me” Wow!!! Anyway we enjoyed a savory pancake with cream and ice cream along with coffee. Before leaving we rummaged through the car and with what coins we recovered and Joan’s secret stash we had sufficient cash to cover the bill. What an incredible place.

Wednesday was another quiet morning in the van with a beach walk and short drive to Shelly Point and Beaumaris in the afternoon. Thursday we packed up and drove all of 16 kilometres north to St. Helens, our chosen destination for Christmas. St Helens is the commercial centre of the NE corner. It is a port town with plenty of fishing boats and seafood and is the gateway to the Bay of Fires. Thursday afternoon, sticking with tradition, it involved shopping and calling into the Visitors Centre. This day also involved running around to complete some last minute Christmas shopping and mailing same to recipients.

Friday morning a little more shopping and my Christmas haircut before heading out for a special day. We spent all afternoon exploring the iconic beautiful and photogenic Bay of Fires. First stop was Binalong Bay. Hard to describe and capture the beauty of the perfect white sandy beaches, turquoise coloured water and orange lichen stained boulders littering the untouched coastline. It is not quite untouched as there are house, shacks and free camping areas scattered all along the coastline but they are not evident until you are right on top of them. We slowly made our way up the coast past Grants Lagoon, stopping at Swimcart Beach to walk along the deserted beach, before continuing on past Cozy Corner, Sloop Lagoon, Taylors Beach, Big Lagoon finally running out of road at The Gardens. We walked around the headland at the Gardens being able to see Eddystone Point and Lighthouse on the horizon (we visited there about 2 weeks ago when based in Gladstone). On the homeward journey we stopped off at Cozy corner to explore and take photos before pulling into Taylors Beach for happy hour and a special tea to celebrate 18 months of retirement and the mid point of our Tasmanian tour. Tea was easy to prepare - local fresh prawns, Scamander cherries all washed down with chilled Moët champagne, a parting gift from the Commercial team at Moranbah North Mine, which we have had stored in the caravan, just waiting for a special occasion like this. Thanks guys, it was perfect.

After the indulgence of the previous day thought we better do some exercise on Saturday. We headed inland to the Blue Tier to a mysterious place called the Goblin Forest Walk, another of the Tasmanian 60 Great Short Walks. It was a really enjoyable drive up through Gould Country to the Blue Tier Forest Reserve at Mt Poimena (816m). The walk was only 20 minutes through a regenerated rainforest. It was a magical walk with lots of fungi and incredibly lush green flora. Difficult to image that a town and mine was once situated at this location. Feeling in need of a little more exertion we decided to tackle the Mt Poimena summit and Moon Valley Rim walk. It was a well established and moderate climb to the summit but by the time we got there it was blowing a gale and the would be incredible views of the Bay of Fires non existent. It was very hazy and no hint of blue at all so we made our way back down to the carpark. Still an enjoyable walk but a little shorter than planned. 

Sunday a sunny but cooler day. The cool change that had been forecasted did eventuate. Had a quiet morning lazing around the van and making a start on this blog. This afternoon we went for a drive out to Beerbarrel Beach at St Helens Point, past the Peron Dunes. I assume Beerbarrel Beach is the local response to Wineglass Bay. Had a look around and took some photos. Tonight we are planning to go uptown and watch the Christmas Parade in St Helens, but I need to make a start on tea. I’m cooking chicken cacciatore pies today so I better get started. Tomorrow is Christmas Day so wishing all our family and friends a joyous and merry Christmas. Cheers to one and all.


Tasmania - Week 11 - East Coast

2017-12-25 to 2017-12-31

Monday was Christmas Day. It was a lot quieter in the St. Helens caravan park then we expected. Christmas morning is not the same without family, especially grandchildren around. We had a quiet morning around the van phoning both our girls and talking with each of the grandkids. At lunch time we took the easy option and headed to Tidal Waters Resort, in St. Helens for a buffet lunch with all the trimmings. Pleased to report they had a generous (appeared bottemless) serving of prawns and oysters. This was also followed up with lamb, turkey, pork and ham. Even found room for pudding and custard, for dessert. Had the traditional Christmas afternoon nap and finished the day with more pudding, cream and custard. The pudding was a traditional one we had purchased from Smithton Scouts in Stanley and had been hanging in the wardrobe of the van awaiting this eventful fate. In fact we enjoyed it for the next three nights.

Tuesday, a sunny day, we ventured back to Binalong Bay, after exploring Humbug Point we returned to Binalong and I ventured in for a swim in one of the little inlets near the bay. The water wasn’t as cold as I expected. Later in the afternoon we made our way back to Cozy Corner and settled on Taylors Beach for happy hour. Once again we ended up with the whole beach to ourselves giving us an opportunity to explore the rocks and just enjoy the solitude of the Bay of Fires. It would be easy to assume that this name came about because of the orange lichen covered rocks, but this is not the case. The internet and local interpretative signs advise the bay was given its name in 1773 by Captain Tobias Furneaux in his ship, Adventure, who saw the fires of Aboriginal people on the beaches.

Wednesday another quiet morning around the van. Highlight of the day was a seafood lunch at Skippers on the wharf in St Helens. Later in the afternoon we went for a walk around Georges Bay and attempted to find a geocache located in the park on Marina Drive but there were too may muggles around so had to abandon that exercise.

Thursday we broke camp at St. Helens and relocated south to Triabunna. Really enjoyed the drive through Swansea and stopped at the Spikey Bridge for lunch. This location is almost directly across Great Oyster Bay from Freycinet Lodge, our memorable night of luxury almost two weeks previous. Spikey Bridge was also an interesting waypoint. A little neglected now but a stone bridge constructed by convict labour in the 1840’s. After settling into Triabunna Caravan Park we visited the Information Centre, booked our passage on the Encounter Maria Island ferry for the following day’s excursion, dropped by the local hotel and replenished our liquid supplies. It was a nice afternoon so we put the annex up and enjoyed happy hour. Ten o’clock that night the wind started so we scrambled and put the annex down.

Friday we woke to an overcast and showery morning. We were a bit concerned as we had to be at the wharf by 8:45am for the 9:00am ferry crossing to Maria Island. For a still unexplainable reason locals call this place Mariah Island, although it is spelt Maria and the Parks & Wildlife internet site explains “During his exploratory trip of 1642, Abel Tasman named 'Maria's Eylandt' in honour of the wife of Anthony Van Diemen, the Governor-General of the Dutch East India Company”. It was only a thirty minute trip, still overcast but not raining, when we arrived. Maria Island has much history. First European explorers arrived in 1789, whalers in 1805, the Darlington Probation Station was established 1825, 1880’s it was used for grape growing and ultimately the limestone cliffs were quarried and mined for the production of Portland cement. Today the whole island is a national park and offers a number of walks, some incredible views, Mountain bike riding and wildlife. Our morning was spent completing the circular  Fossil Cliffs walk getting us back into Darlington for lunch. After lunch we completed the Painted Cliffs walk via the Oast House Track. An Oast House is a hop kiln, a building designed for kilning hops as part of the brewing process. That is another two short walks ticked off. Whilst walking back to the wharf to catch the ferry home we were privileged to witness a wombat and its baby taking a walk along the beach.

Saturday was a windy overcast showery day so another opportunity to spend a restful morning around the van. In the afternoon we ventured out to Swansea to  enjoy another seafood lunch and do some grocery shopping . We also completed another short walk. It was an extremely short walk, only about twenty minutes along the coast near Swansea, but one with a big name - Loontitetermairrelhoiner. On the homeward trip we decided we enjoyed our trip to Maria Island so much we would return early next week and explore it some more. 

Sunday we woke to no wind and blue skies. We had planned to do some work around the van so the morning was spent with Joan cleaning the inside and me scrubbing the annex. We have experienced a lot of wind and some dirt roads in Tasmania so dust is an issue in the van and the annex is is showing signs of staining. By lunch time both inside and out were looking spick and span. After lunch we took a short drive south to Orford to have a look around. We ended up walking around the cliff tops from Shelley Beach to Spring Beach and back. It was only about two kilometres each way but afforded some great views of Maria Island. It is New Year’s Eve and not sure if we will make it through to midnight as we have a great mountain bike adventure planned for tomorrow. Regardless wishing all our family and friends a Happy New Year and may 2018 deliver everything and more you may want or dream for. Cheers!


Tasmania - Week 12 - SE Coast

2018-01-01 to 2018-01-07

2018, New Years Day. We woke to an overcast day but we excitedly packed lunch and other supplies into our backpacks and arrived at the Triabunna wharf in plenty of time to catch the 9:00am ferry to Maria Island. The previous day we had hired mountain bikes and the plan was to explore the southern extremes of Maria Island. By 10:00 o,clock we were riding along the dirt coastal track. It was picturesque and enjoyable but we had already amended our goal to reaching French’s farm and hopefully the isthmus. The bikes were well set up and had gears that seemed to flatten the hills substantially but we realised that we would be tired and very saddle sore by mid afternoon so we wisely adjusted our goals. We did make it to French’s farm, but the track then turned to sand approaching the isthmus, so we abandoned the bikes and walked along the beach of Shoal Bay. Getting back on the bikes we backtracked and diverted to Encampment Cove for lunch. We arrived back at Darlington in time to catch the 3:30pm ferry back to Triabunna. Time wise we could have ridden a little further but bum-wise I think we got it about right. A really enjoyable and rewarding day. We concluded a great day with a good feed of fish and chips from the Fish Van down on Triabunna wharf.

Tuesday surprisingly did not wake up sore but we elected to have a quiet day around the campsite. After lunch, attempted to explore the headland around Spring Bay and although drove some interesting dirt roads and saw some interesting countryside, farms and sea views kept being turned back by farm gates and ultimately a big locked gate at the now abandoned Gunn’s wood chip mill and wharf facility.

Wednesday we broke camp and relocated via Sorell to Taranna, midpoint between Eaglehawk Neck and Port Arthur. After setting up camp at Taranna Cottages, we headed out to revisit the local sites. We had spend a day here back in April 2006. Not a lot had changed. While seeking out a lookout we did however take a wrong turn and unintentionally ended up at Fortescue Bay. Did not stay as we were planning to return later in the week to do a short walk here. We did get back on track and visited the Tessellated Pavement, the Dog Line, the Officers Quarters, the Blowhole, Tasman Arch and Devils Kitchen. The Dog Line and Officers Quarters are a historical site situated on a narrow 30 metre-wide isthmus that joins the peninsula to the rest of Tasmania. This isthmus was once guarded by a line of ferocious dogs to prevent convicts escaping across the Neck from the nearby penal colony of Port Arthur. The slightest disturbance would set the dogs barking and alert the soldiers. All the other attractions we visited are geographical phenomena associated with the rugged coastline and its cliffs.

Thursday was set aside to explore the Tasman Peninsula and complete some more short walks. First stop was the Coal Mines Historic Site. What an amazing and intriguing place. Free entry and we could have easily spent a day walking and exploring the tracks. We did five consecutive walks which constituted the Short Walk for this site. By completing the Convict Precinct, Plunkett Point, Inclined Plane to the Main Shaft, Signal Station and the Military Precinct we covered the main points of Interest. From here we drove to Nubeena, found potable water and collected 40L as there is no water supply at our camp, before heading for Cape Raoul. As this is a grade 4 walk, estimated time  to complete being 6 hours, our approach was to start it and turn around when we had seen or done enough. That point was about 3 kilometres in. We emerged from the bush onto a spectacular cliff edge that looked down on Cape Raoul. We spent about 30 minutes admiring and photographing the 180 degree views before heading back to the trailhead. Being 2:30pm we thought we might get in one more walk for the day. It was 3:30pm by the time we set off on the Cape Hauy walk to the Candlestick and Totem Pole. This walk was also classified as a Class 4 and the last stage of the Three Capes Walk, with an estimated 4 hours return, so once again the plan was to ‘suck it and see’. It was a steep climb and unfortunately after about 3 kilometres beer o’clock won out and we decided to turn back. It was a very picturesque walk back overlooking Fortescue Bay. The beer was cold and good.

Friday, another magic sight filled day. 9:00am on the dot we walked through the the newly opened Port Arthur Visitor Centre. We spent all day walking around and exploring the Convict and other buildings making up this incredible World Heritage listed Historical site. We had visited here in 2006, but it was a warmer day this time and we seemed to have covered and seen a lot more, although there were a lot more visitors this time than April 2006. The numbers were swelled due to the cruise ship Golden Princess being anchored in Mason Cove disgorging its passengers via life raft to the Port Arthur jetty. 

Saturday morning we drove back into Sorell for Joan to visit a hairdresser and for me to complete the weekly shopping and collect some more water for the van. On the way home we stopped off at Eaglehawk to do the Waterfall Bay short walk. A great walk along the cliff tops with a number of vantage points to view the cliffs and the ocean battering the coastline below.

Sunday was clear blue sky. We had some domestic things to take care of in the morning but first I drove back to Eaglehawk Lookout to get some photos of the rugged sheer cliff edged coastline. It really is spectacular. After lunch we had a couple of real surprises; hidden gems. The first being the museum that Colin and Marge have put together at Taranna Cottages. Must admit I am over small local museums but Colin’s passion and persuasion sparked our interest and glad it did. A well laid out logical presentation of local history and world class in more ways than one. The next hidden gem was Maingon Bay incorporating the Remarkable Cave. First up from the Lookout an incredible view of the jagged dolerite rock pillars that create the profile of Cape Raoul and then a short walk down some steps into Maingon Bay to experience the Remarkable Cave. The steps take you to the rear of a sea cave. The experience and sights encountered depend on the what stage the tide is at. Low tide the cave is accessible and at high tide the cave would be underwater.

Something a little different next week. Tomorrow we relocate to Hobart, collect my sister, Annemarie and husband, David from the airport and spend a few days with them and my Hobart based nieces Angela and Samantha, and their families.


Tasmania - Week 13 - Hobart

2018-01-08 to 2018-01-14

Moving day tends to be a bright sunny day. Monday in Taranna was no exception. After packing up and thanking Colin & Marge for a great waypoint we headed for Hobart. An uneventful drive through Hobart to Snug had us fully set up by lunchtime. We chose Snug, south of Hobart as my nieces, Angela and Sammy, and their families live nearby in Bonnet Hill and Electrona. To complete the family reunion my sister Annemarie and her husband, David flew in from Newcastle. I picked them up from Hobart airport at 2:30pm and they checked into a cabin at our Caravan Park. Monday evening the girls and Hieu (Angela’s husband) came around to the van and we had a great evening getting to know their children, Riley, Delilah, Harry and Indigo. Annemarie and David have visited in recent years but this was the first time Joan and I had met our grand nieces and nephews.

Tuesday morning, another sunny day and we made the most of it kayaking with Riley and Sammy in North West Bay. Even Annemarie had a paddle. Tuesday night was a full-on family reunion with dinner at Sammy and Ryan’s place. It was a great catch up, great food, noisy and fantastic to see cousins playing and interacting as only cousins do. 

Wednesday morning, David, Annemarie, Joan and I were up early, car packed and on the 9:00 o’clock ferry to Bruny Island. It was a first visit for all of us and although we did not have an itinerary the plan was to see as much as we could in a day. And wow did we pack in a lot. First stop was Truganini Lookout at the neck. Not only an amazing view but we could also make out the recognisable profile of Cape Raoul. We then ventured further south to the Bruny Island Lighthouse. Backtracking through Lunawanna, we stopped at BI Premium wines for a taste. Unfortunately underwhelming and overpriced, but the girls took a fancy to the Ginger Cider, on offer. From here back to Alannah to the pub for lunch. A great little pub. Although the meal was delivered in stages and a little slow it certainly made up for in quantity and taste. It appeared to be a very popular eatery. Joan and I enjoyed one of the best seafood platters we have had in ages. From here the intention was to do a short walk at Adventure Bay but abandoned the idea when we couldn’t locate the trail head. The girls consoled themselves with a berry ice cream from the Berry Place. Next stop was the Cheese, Beer and Bread Place. It was very busy with queues of patrons waiting to be served, so we had a quick look around and made a beeline for the Whisky House. An impressive establishment with an array of 4 nip paddles ranging in price was $40 - $200/paddle. We sampled the $40 paddle. Found the Sullivans Cove single malt whiskey agreeable but at $230/bottle left empty handed. We were back on the ferry by 4:00pm. Stopped in Kettering to pick up some fresh local fruit and veggies and back at the van in time for happy hour. In short we found Bruny Island probably a great place to escape for a few days/weeks if you are self sufficient but a little expensive for a day-tripper.

Thursday another family adventure. The girls and kids took us for a short walk to Snug Falls. What a great morning. Five adults, two walking kids and two younger ones in back packs. All the kids were great and it was a beautiful destination. Thursday evening another family food and fiesta night. This time at Angela and Hieu’s new home. Another evening of great company, kids entertainment and too much food. 

Friday was an overcast day, with the permanent threat of rain. So after a late start we called into the Shot Tower at Taroona. This is a 48 metre sandstone tower built by Joseph Moir in 1870. For 100 years it was the tallest structure in Tasmania and is alleged to be the tallest remaining shot tower in the world and the tallest ever built in the Southern Hemisphere. From here we went to the Signal Station at Mt. Nelson where we met Beth and Mark for lunch. Beth being a friend of Annemarie’s from high school days. It was a great catch up and I really enjoyed the octopus main course. Unfortunately a very overcast and windy day so the view was not the best. A detour on the way home had us calling into the Cascade Female Factory Historic Site in South Hobart. The site was operated as a female factory (prison) from 1828 - 1856. We visited here back in 2006 and although it has been revamped it is still a sombre place being reminded of the thousands of woman and their children that were cramped in here to be punished and reformed. 

Saturday, Annemarie and David’s last day. Joan and I slept in. A result of the big week and the fact that it was raining. We had planned to spend this last day at Richmond with Annemarie, David, Angela and her family, Sammy and her family along with Ryan’s parents, Rick and Christine. Because of the rain, plan B resulted in an impromptu bar-b-que with duelling Webber’s at Angela and Hieu’s place.  Another perfect family-fun food feast. Kids had a ball and we enjoyed meeting Ryan’s parents. Three o’clock rolled around and it was time to get Annemarie and David to the airport. Arriving at Hobart Airport we learnt that Williamtown airport had been closed due to smoke from surrounding bushfires. Short story Annemarie & David’s flight was cancelled with them rescheduled to fly out same time next day. So they scored another night and day in Hobart. As they were homeless and we had no room in the van we dropped them back at Sammy’s for the night.

Sunday morning we met the family at Dru Point Centennial Park in Margate, to watch the kids play and enjoy their scooters and bikes. From here we ventured to the Pancake Shop forming part of the Margate Train. After lunch Annemarie and David said their goodbyes to Angela, Samantha and the grand nieces and nephews and we ran them out to the airport via Richmond to view the historical buildings including the convict Bridge (1823) and the Catholic Church (1836). We said our goodbyes to Annemarie and David around 3:30pm at the departure area of Hobart airport. 4:30pm we received an SMS from Annemarie advising their flight had once again been cancelled. Talk about déjà vu and that Van Diemens Land saying ‘for the terms of their natural lives...’

Postscript. Annemarie and David were rerouted Sunday evening on a direct flight to Sydney and completed the final leg of their homeward trip by courtesy car.


Tasmania - Week 14 - Southern Tassie

2018-01-15 to 2018-01-21

Monday morning rang Annemarie to check they made it home. All was good. We spent most of the day at the Museum of Old and New Art (MONA), in Berriedale, Hobart. MONA is a privately funded museum displaying antiquities, modern and contemporary art from the David Walsh collection. David Walsh is a Tasmanian millionaire who made his fortune by developing a gambling system used to bet on horse racing and other sports. On entering MONA you know you are in for something special. A spiral staircase leads you three floors underground. The museum has been carved into the sandstone cliffs around of the Berriedale Peninsula. Our experience took about four hours to work our way from the bottom floor back to the light of the surface. It is confronting, thought provoking, confusing, technical and at the same time enthralling. Guess David Walsh is an complex, perhaps slightly disturbed individual but definitely generous and an asset to Tasmania as it is a great tourist attraction all the while providing free entry to all Tasmanians and a fantastic venue for all sorts of entertainment in the accompany picturesque and functional grounds and gardens. 

Monday night we had a parting dinner with Angela, Hieu, Delilah and Indigo at The Beach restaurant on the foreshore of Blackmans Bay. It was a very enjoyable and relaxed evening with this beautiful family.

Tuesday we headed for Mt Wellington. Third time here and the first time we have had clear blue skies and no wind. Unfortunately it was a hazy day so not the clear sharp photos we were expecting. The other disappointment was the Organ Pipes walk, one of our 60 Short Walks, that we had planned to walk, was closed due to an upgrade of the walking track. 

Tuesday night it was time to say good bye to my other niece, Samantha and her family, Ryan, Riley and Harry. Sammy cooked a beautiful home cooked meal complimented by freshly picked berries for dessert. Like the previous evening it was an enjoyable and relaxed evening with a lovely family. Billy and Cathy can be proud of both their girls and their life choices.

Wednesday morning we broke camp and after one last visit to the Snug butcher we headed south to to set up camp at Dover. It is only a small caravan park but well set out and welcoming, well placed for exploring the Huon Valley. Wednesday afternoon saw us completing another short walk. This time the Duckhole Lake, an easy 2klm stroll to a dark reflective sink hole. Before returning to camp we had a quick look around Dover. It did not take long but it certainly was beautiful perched on Port Esperance.

Thursday was a bucket list day. We travelled an hour south of Dover to Cockle Creek where the road ends. In fact this is Australia’s most southerly road. After visiting the whale sculpture at Recherche Bay we hiked a further 8klm  to South Cape Bay being, another Tasmanian Short Walk and the most southern Bay of this great southern land. Here I was able to see Australia’s most southern Point (South East Point) and swim in the Southern Ocean. A rewarding and satisfying day all round. Only surprise and warning to others was the number of ferocious March flies that ensured our visit was kept short on this most southernly beach.

Friday we woke to clear blue skies and warnings of a hot day (30+ deg C). We had big plans of completing 2 or 3 short walks that day. On the road by 9:30am promptly got lost on a back dirt road somewhere west of Dover so had to backtrack and stick to the bitumen taking the longer route via Geeveston to the Hartz National Park. To our surprise as we pulled up at the carpark the clouds starting rolling in over the Hartz mountains. By the time we had rugged up and walked through the high alpine area to Lake Esperance, the entire lake was blanketed in cloud. It was fascinating but eerie. After about 20 minutes there was a few gusts of wind that cleared the scene for a few minutes but it was soon swallowed up again by cloud. We decided to abandon the second walk to Hartz Peak as visibility was very poor and the risk of getting lost and worse still no hope of getting photos of the south west wilderness stole our motivation. 

Returning to the car we had some lunch and then pushed onto the Tahune AirWalk. Only 30 minutes from Hartz Mountains and once again clear blue sky. We visited here in 2006 with my brother Billy. This time we completed the McKays Track, the Huon Pine Track and the AirWalk to complete the three elements of this short walk. Had a short stop in Geeveston on the homeward journey for some fuel and groceries.

Saturday, after being on the go for almost two weeks we had a well earned rest day, catching up on washing and chores around the van.

Sunday morning we broke camp. First stop was Woolworths Huonville to pick up our ‘click and collect’ food order, I had placed the previous day. It worked like a charm. A full week’s shopping collected, refrigerated and stored in less than 10 minutes. Next into Hobart calling into BCF on the way through for some caravan consumables. Stopped off at New Norfolk for lunch before pushing onto Mt Fields National Park, one hour west of Hobart, home for the next 4 - 5 days. Looking forward to this coming week, a powered, watered site in a National Park with a full catalogue of short walks to complete.

Until next week stay happy and stay safe.


Tasmania - Week 15 - Southern Highlands

2018-01-22 to 2018-01-28

Monday we slept in but when we did wake it was a beautiful morning. We had a lazy morning and I spent most of my time trying to coax my camera back to life. After six years of misuse and probably the result of being dropped one time too many it has finally refused to switch on. I have persevered with intermittent problems last few months, even purchased a new battery but a loose connection somewhere has final let go. One of the issues of being a nomad, never stop anywhere long enough to get things attended to. Will research a new camera or perhaps just wait and get this one fixed when we get back to Queensland. Joan has kindly entrusted me with her ‘point and shoot’ so that I can continue to get my daily fix and continue capturing our travels. 

Monday afternoon we started exploring this extraordinary Mt Field National Park. We spent the afternoon completing the very picturesque and enjoyable Three Falls Walk. This walk starts with a short walk to the iconic Russell Falls, featured on so many Australian landscape calendars. From here we climbed up and past the top of Russell Falls to the less spectacular Horseshoe Falls. Think it would come into its own after a good shower. The walk continues through the forest to a detour through the Tall Trees. A really pleasant and serene place. Another moderate undulating walk delivered us to Lady Barron Falls. The return walk to camp involved climbing 239 steps. For some unexplained reason we decided to run up the first 150 steps. I am still paying for that stupid decision. This walk ticked off three more Tasmanian Short Walks from our list.

Tuesday we again adopted the strategy of a quiet morning, driving 16 kilometres after lunch up to Lake Dobson to complete the Pandani Grove Walk, the remaining short walk in this National Park. It was a pleasant walk around the lake. This is a snowfield and popular skiing area in winter.

Wednesday morning I slipped into New Norfolk, the closest dump point and to do a grocery shopping at Woolworths. After lunch we once again ventured up the Lake Dobson Road to complete the 2 hour Seagers Lookout Walk. It was a steep rocky climb past Lake Fenton to a disappointing rocky outcrop with good views of the Derwent River Valley and the south-west of Tasmania.

Thursday back to a sleep in and lazy morning. The afternoon another 2-hour walk. This time to Lake Nicholls. This was also a rocky track but not as steep as the previous day, through woodland and heath with the reward after the climb of the picturesque Lake Nicholls. 

Friday, Australia Day, continuing the theme for this week, a quiet morning around camp. After lunch I visited Lake Pedder, Strathgordon, and Australia’s highest concrete arched Dam, Gordon Dam, the scene of massive student and conservationists’ protests late 1960’s and 70’s. At Lake Pedder there is a Huon Pine that was felled in 1975, with a calculated age at that time of 2,200 years, meaning it was around before the birth of Jesus Christ. 

Saturday as planned we broke camp and headed further west to Derwent Bridge arriving just on lunchtime. Being moving day it was a clear and as it turned out a very hot day. Second 32 deg C day, of a forecasted 3-day Tasmanian heatwave. The plan was to freecamp at the Derwent Bridge Hotel as the nearby Lake St Clair NP reportedly could not accommodate large rigs. We set up camp in the carpark of the Hotel. It definitely was hot and the thought of sleeping in a hot van did not appeal, so we drove out to the NP to eyeball and measure their sites. Verdict was they were tight but they had both power and water. The outcome was obvious. An hour later we had been back to town collected the van and set up in amongst the trees at Lake St Clair. We did however venture back to the pub that evening for a meal and so glad we did. The best Indian/Sri Lankan curry we have enjoyed since visiting Elephant Castle in the UK, July 2011.

Sunday another warm sunny day. We filled in the morning by taking in a leisurely short walk from the Lake St Clair Visitor Centre. This was one of our targeted 60 Great Short Walks. This one involved three elements or stages. First stage being Watersmeet Nature Trail leading onto the Platypus Bay Circuit which returned us to Watersmeet; the junction of the Hugel and Cuvier Rivers. We took the alternate route back to the Visitors Centre via ‘Larmairremener tabelti’ (the Aborginal cultural walk). All up a fairly easy enjoyable walk totally just over 5 kilometres. After lunch we visited the much publicised ‘The Wall’ in Derwent Bridge. We were not disappointed. The artist Greg Duncan has erected a wall 100 metres in length, housed in a timber framed shed. He has spent the last decade carving mainly Huon pine to tell a story. In his words ‘...some of the things that express the values and philosophies which identify us simply being Australian, something I fear is at risk more in these times than ever before’. I found the work extraordinary and moving. Unfortunately photography is not permitted so cannot share any of his work, but there is more detail and some photos on http://thewalltasmania.com.au/wall.html. We have seen many timber carvings in Tasmania but the intricate work and finish of this work puts Greg Duncan in an entirely different level of timber artwork and sculpturing.

Anyway another week gone. Only three weeks left in Tasmania before we head back to the big island and start our trek home. Until next time stay happy and stay safe.


Tasmania - Week 16 - Southern Highlands & West Coast

2018-01-29 to 2018-02-04

This was a week of changing plans. Monday the plan was to catch the morning ferry from Lake St Clair to Echo Point and walk the 11 kilometres back to Cynthia Bay to complete another one of the 60 Great Short Walks. Insufficient numbers meant the ferry was not operating so we agreed with the ferry skipper that we would walk from Cynthia Bay along the Overland Track and he would collect us from Echo Point around 1:00pm on his afternoon run to Narcissus Bay. It was overcast with passing showers but walking through the rainforest was pleasant and sheltered from the rain. We arrived at Echo Point in plenty of time to enjoy our cheese sandwiches for lunch before the ‘Idaclair’ (the wilderness ferry) arrived to collect us as arranged. From Echo Point the ferry continued onto Narcissus Bay to collect 20 smelly overland trekkers who had just completed 7-8 days hiking from Cradle Mountain. 

Tuesday, another day and another short walk to complete. This time the 13 kilometre Shadow Lake Track. Another overcast day with passing showers. This day we were not as protected by the trees and we did get wet but being prepared, wearing the appropriate attire, we were not too inconvenienced. All in all it was a pleasant walk through sub-alpine moorland and highland eucalyptus forest.

Wednesday we planned to move onto Queenstown or perhaps Zeehan or Strahan. It was very cold Wednesday morning and to our surprise we woke to a dusting of snow. Weather reports confirmed snowfalls above 900 metres throughout the Highlands. Hard to believe it was 32 deg C on Sunday and this morning it was 3 deg C. Already a little nervous about towing the van through the mountains and down into Queenstown we decided to stay put for another day. Not wanting the added complication of iced or snow covered roads. Ended up a quiet day working around the van, checking weather reports and researching the road to Queenstown. Highlight was lunch at the Hungry Wombat Cafe in Derwent Bridge. 

Thursday woke to a beautiful day. Packed up the van and on the road by 10:00am. Research the previous day had unearthed it was only 91 kilometres to Queenstown but some very mountainous terrain. Fortunately there are a number of landmarks and short walks along the way, so it was possible to break the trip up and give both me (the driver) and the car a few breaks along the way. We ended up stopping at the well-known Franklin River to enjoy the tranquility and rainforest of this wilderness area. Next stop was another look at the Franklin River from a rocky outcrop known as Donaghys Hill. The third stop was at Nelson Falls. A very short walk but probably the most impressive falls we have experienced in Tasmania. On the outskirts of Queenstown we also stopped briefly to photograph Horsetail Falls and Queenstown from the lookout leading into the town. Although it had taken us about 5 hours to travel this distance it was not as difficult a drive as anticipated and both car and myself were unscathed so we decided to push onto Strahan and make that our base for next little while. As it turned out we were lucky to get a site in Strahan and could only secure realestate for two nights. 

We had visited both Strahan and Queenstown in 2006 and were already familiar with the area and its highlights. Strahan is a beautiful town and we spent Friday reacquainting ourselves with the town and it surrounds, taking a walk around the wharf area and up to Hogarth Falls through Peoples Park. In the afternoon went for a drive to Ocean Beach and Macquarie Heads.

As we failed in extending our stay at the Caravan Park we packed up Saturday morning and relocated all of 44 kilometres to Zeehan, once a booming silver -lead mining town and the third largest city in Tasmania. Now a struggling community with a population less than 1,000. Nevertheless it is a friendly and beautiful little town to use as a base for a week or so. Saturday afternoon after setting up camp we drove to the edge of town past the golf course to the abandoned Spray Silver Mine and tunnel, a 100-metre long abandoned train tunnel that is now home to glow worms. From here we ventured 20 kilometres along yet another mainly gravel road to Trial Harbour. This area was used as a port during the early days of mining in Zeehan. It is an exposed piece of coastline and not surprisingly shipping facilities were later established at Strahan and Regatta Point. Today it is just a collection of holiday homes and fishing shacks. 

Sunday was overcast so we elected to visit the West Coast Heritage Centre in the Main Street of Zeehan. In fact it has taken over and occupies a number of buildings in this precinct. We knew we were in for a big day when the volunteer at the ticket counter advised us to hold onto our ticket because they were good for 14 days entry. We did spend most of the day there. It incorporates a vast array of local history and includes a massive mineral display, mining machinery, underground mine simulation, a blacksmiths shop, locomotives, access to the historic Gaiety Theatre, Masonic Lodge, Police Station and Courthouse. There is also a Pioneer Women’s Gallery. It is a credit to the town and their ongoing support not to mention the foresight of those individuals that assembled and made these displays possible.


Tasmania - Week 17 - West Coast

2018-02-05 to 2018-02-11

Monday woke to a blue sky day and after a slow start (late breakfast) we packed the car with a thermos of coffee, some lunch and snacks, then headed north up the Murchison Highway towards Rosebery. The goal today was to knock over another Tasmanian short walk - Montezuma Falls. It ended up a very pleasant walk and enjoyable day. It was an easy walk along the abandoned North East Dundas Tramway. The line was opened in 1896 to carry ore (copper, gold, lead, zinc and silver) from the Williamsford mines to Zeehan where it would be loaded onto another train for shipment to Burnie. The railway was closed in 1932. Walking through the rainforest lost in thought I could not help but admire the early pioneers and miners. Also came to the conclusion that I had been working here, back in the day, I would have wanted to be an engineer on the tram. With so many difficult, hard and dangerous jobs, back then, this would have had to be a most prized position, driving through this glorious rainforest every working day. 

Tuesday was a service day. Joan cleaned inside the van and I spent most of the day hand washing the exterior of the van in preparation for our return trip to Melbourne, week after next. Did spend some time in the afternoon touring around the remains of Zeehan and doing a weekly shop at the local IGA store. Zeehan was established as a mining field in 1882 with silver-lead deposits and was the third largest town in Tasmania. In 1910 with a population of 10,000 it was on par with Launceston and Hobart with a Main Street over 2 miles long and boasted over 20 hotels. Today the population would be around 500 and only 2 hotels. There is still some Tin mining being carried out in the area but tourism would be the main drawcard these days.

Wednesday another nice day so we packed another picnic lunch and flask of coffee and headed towards Corinna to the Reece Dam. A hydro electric power station and dam constructed in the 1970’s. Although man-made it is a beautiful setting and another testament to the ingenuity of mankind to work with nature and natural resources to build something both useful and pleasing to the eye.

Thursday we broke camp and retraced our steps to Rosebery and then pushed on through Tullah pulling up at lunch time at another historic mining town - Waratah. The first Tasmanian town to have electric street lights powered by hydroelectricity. The council here provide a very functional and popular camp grounds behind the council offices. After setting up we visited the visitors centre and got the rundown from Chris on the local area. From here we visited the Kenworthy’s Stamper, then Waratah Falls, which are adjacent to the Main Street. We then walked the historic walk of Waratah. Waratah is a lot smaller than Zeehan but has still suffered the decline in numbers with the downturn in mining. There is a reminder of the more glorious days with the Bischoff Tin Mine, at one time the largest mine in the world, still evident on the edge of town.

Friday was a sobering day as well as a milestone day. Joan’s dad worked on the construction of houses in Savage River back in the early 1960’s. The drive on this day had us passing through Savage River on the way to Corinna, on the northern side of the Pieman River, to complete the last of our Tasmanian Short Walks - The Huon Pine Walk. The first surprise of the day was the township of Luina no longer exists. With the mine closing they dismantled the town and the forest has reclaimed the whole area. Other than the remains of a few roads no other evidence of previous habitation exists. We moved onto Savage River. The first major landmark was the tailings dam. Not a pretty site. The town itself is no longer there. The mine is still operating but is serviced by a large Single Persons Quarters (SPQ). No houses, no shops, no pub, no garage. Guess it is the ultimate FIFO operation. Corinna is also an almost non-existent township, with now just a hotel incorporating a general store, some rental holiday cottages and the ferry service across the Pieman River. We completed  the short walk, meaning we walked 48 of the 60 Great Short Walks of Tasmania. On the return to camp we stopped about 10 kilometres short of Waratah to walk into the Philosopher Falls on the Arthur River. It turned out to be a spectacular walk steeped in history and lots of colourful fungi blooms. Initially the grade was moderate heading down but once we crossed the creek it was a comfortable grade along an abandoned water race which was built to supply water to the nearby Magnet Mine which opened in 1894 and closed in 1940. The last stage of the walk involved descending 206 steps (Joan’s count) to a viewing platform positioned about mid point of this two tiered waterfall. 

Saturday started off an overcast day. The main attraction today was the Waratah Wood Chop competition that was held across the road from the Camping area. It was only a small turnout but fierce competition and some entertaining axemanship on display.  It started raining mid afternoon and continued through the night accompanied by gusts of strong wind.

Sunday morning we woke to overcast skies and a rather cold morning. By lunch time the skies had cleared so we decided to walk from town to Ringtail Falls and see if we could locate the old Waratah Power Station. Glad we did as it was a very pleasant though steep and wet under foot in parts. The forest was so fresh after the rain. We did find the old Hydro-Electric Power Station buried in the woods. It was built in 1906 to power processing operations of the Mt Bischoff mine fed by a metal penstock some 170 vertical metres above the power station. The Power Station consisted of four pelton-style impulse turbines, that could supply up to 1MW of energy. It closed in 1952. Since then the water races and haulage ways have gradually succumbed to the forest, the power station and other infrastructure was partially dismantled and components removed. Today the back wall of the  powerhouse has collapsed and the building has now almost been reclaimed by the forest.

Only one week of our Tasmanian adventure left. We board the Spirit of Tasmania next Monday evening for the night sail to Melbourne.


Tasmania - Week 18 - NW Coast

2018-02-12 to 2018-02-18

This was our last week in Tasmania and it has been a wild one. Monday we broke camp in Waratah and had an easy leisurely drive to Wynyard via Ridgley. We located the Leisure Ville Holiday Centre; only a small caravan park but they allocated us a large grassy private site in the back corner of the park. Something Joan appreciated as it better for her morning exercise routine. 

Tuesday woke to a beautiful morning so we packed some lunch and headed down the Murchison Highway to the Hellyer Gorge, about an hour south of Wynyard. It was an interesting winding drive down to the gorge. Tasmanian Forestry have provided a functional rest area here and two short walks along the Hellyer River’s edge. We had lunch and completed both walks before returning to Wynyard to complete a weekly shop at Woolworths. Tuesday evening the wind started and continued all night.

Wednesday we woke to rain and howling wind. There was nothing we could do but bunker down and spend the day in the van, and I mean in the van. We had docked the awning the previous afternoon when the wind was evident. On the news bulletin that evening it was reported we had experienced gusts of wind in excess of 100klm/hour. It wasn’t a total waste of a day. Firstly it gave me the time to compile a map of all the short walks we have completed during our time in Tasmania. In summary we completed 80 short walks, 48 off being from the Tasmania 60 Great Short Walks series and 32 being other walks we came across and completed. The other bonus was the van park had an indoor heated pool and spa, so while it was raining and blowing outside we enjoyed the warmth and tranquility of the pool.

Thursday it was still wet and blowy, coupled with a cold front that had moved in over night. Another day in the van. Bizarre; family and friends in Queensland were roasting in 40 deg plus heat and we were freezing. We did escape at lunchtime to get out of the van for a short time, but it was short-lived. We had decided to go to the Hellyer Distillery Interpretation Centre for lunch. Unbeknown to us there were two cruise ships in port at Burnie; the Sun Princess and the Silver Whisper resulting in no tables being available. After lunch in the van we went swimming in the heated pool and then I updated our metrics for our Tasmanian tour and compiled another map of day trips completed during this leg of the tour. 

The updated metrics:

Number of days in Tasmania                  129 days

Klm’s travelled in car, Tasmania.          9,137 klm

Klm’s caravan travelled                        1,894 klm

Number of camps in Tasmania                  25 off

Litres of fuel Consumed.                       1,246 ltr 

Average price of diesel.                            139 cpl

For anyone interested the above maps can be located at:

Map #1 - Short Walks completed during our travels. http://wctrip.co/au/99282/1700785257 Orange icon = Tasmanian 60 Great Short Walks. Acqua icon = Other Short Walks.

Map #2 - Points of Interest and day trips completed  https://trackmytour.com/N3jQw#1998965

Friday we did return to the Hellyer Road Distillery for lunch. Although the service was a little slow the food and whiskey was certainly worth the effort. We enjoyed a Tasmanian Tasting plate for two. What a great way to finish our time in Tassie. The well portioned dish included Petuna smoked salmon, cherry tomato salad, crispy risotto balls, local smoked ham, cheesy polenta, pumpkin fritters, marinated Nichols chicken, house made quiche, Ashgrove cheddar, Westhaven marinated fetta, olives, brie, dips and a selection of crackers and char-grilled crusty bread.

Saturday although overcast, the wind had dropped and only scattered light showers so we visited Boat Harbour, Sisters Beach and Rocky Cape National Park.

Sunday ended up a quiet day washing, swimming and preparing the car and van for the 11 hour ferry trip next day to Melbourne. We did take time out for lunch, visiting Crusty’s Bakery for scallop, pies one last time, before departing this land under down under. We plan to spend next week in Ballarat, Victoria.


Back on the big island

2018-02-19 to 2018-02-25

Monday was a bit of a wasted day. It was our last day in Tassie. Yes it was time to leave this land under down under. We had a late check out from the Caravan Park so we had a lazy slow morning packing up the van and filling in time on our iPads. After lunch we drove the short distance to Devonport, calling into Lillico Beach on the way to kill some time and try our luck at spotting Penguins one last time. No luck with the penguins, so we carried onto Devonport arriving with about two hours to kill before loading would commence on the Spirit of Tasmania. We parked up at the beach, once again killing time on our iPads. I used this time to capture our parting emotions on our Tasmanian experience and shared these with and thanked the members of the Facebook group ‘The very best of caravan and camping in Tasmania’. This FB group is a great resource for planning and getting insider information of the best Tasmania has to offer. 4:30pm rolled around and couldn’t hang in any longer so we made the short trip the the ferry terminal and found ourselves second in line to board. Fortunately they opened the gates about 15 minutes later. We then ran through the checkin procedure and security checks. It was determined we weren’t concealing any guns, ammunition nor drugs in the engine component, canopy or caravan so we were approved to board. Second time around no mystery and much easier. This time around because it was a night crossing we also had a cabin. We quickly located our cabin (number 7000) which was right at the front (bow) of the ship directly under the bridge. We utilised the time prior to sailing having a few drinks and dinner. The SOT departed right on time at 7:30pm. It was a good crossing, slept all night and docked in Melbourne on time at 6:00am Tuesday morning. An hour later we were having breakfast on the side of the M8 Western Freeway just outside of Melbourne.

We booked into the Shady Acres Caravan Park on the outskirts of Ballarat (we also stayed here in 2015) and spent that day and the following day in and around the van. After our Tassie adventure we just needed a change of pace before starting the next leg of this tour and the homeward trek. It was also overcast, showering and windy. Wednesday night we spoilt ourselves and had some time away from the van. We stayed at the Sovereign Hill Hotel, dined at the nearby Kambei Japanese Restaurant and attended the Blood on the Southern Cross Light and Sound Show. Thursday was another overcast day so we spent another day around the van planning our next moves. Friday rejuvenated, an updated plan and a clear day we visited the Ballarat Botanical Gardens, Prisioner of War Memorial and completed a grocery shopping at Aldi. 

Saturday morning we hitched the van and headed further west along the M8 onto the A8 through Ararat, Great Western, pulling up at Stawell. After settling into the Grampians Gate Caravan Park (site of the original Stawell Gift, Easter 1878). The event was moved to its current location at Central Park in 1898. After settling in we had lunch then did the customary run around town locating the Information Centre. From here we drove up to Halls Gap to determine if we would use Stawell as our base for the Grampians or relocate later in the week, if the road was caravan friendly. Saturday afternoon Halls Cap was very busy and had a holiday feel about it. Lots of coffee shops, motorbikes and four caravan parks. Both of us thought it had a Jasper (Alberta, Canada) feel about the place. Decision was easy, spend a few days in Stawell and then move up there mid week to do some walks and check out the iconic landmarks. 

Sunday woke to a windy but sunny day. Agenda today was the  silo art trail. After spending a week doing nothing it was time for a road trip. We left Stawell mid morning making our way to Murtoa, home of the National Heritage listed Stick Shed. A 265m x 60m x 20m high wooden (because of wartime restrictions on steel) wheat grain store built in 1942. Regrettably access to this significant part of Australian history is not currently available. We pushed onto Rupanyup, for the first Silo Art, ‘Sporting Youth’ by Russian street artist Julia Volchkova. From here to Minyip, the home of the ‘Flying Doctors’, a TV series from the 1970’s. A little further up the road was Sheep Hills, another painted silo. This one features four indigenous faces on a starry background. This is the work of Melbourne street artist Matt Adnate. Being 1:00 o’clock we made a dash for Warracknabeal for lunch at the Creekside Hotel. After a late lunch we continued north to the Brim Silos to view Guido Van Helten’s iconic tribute to the farming communities of the Wimmera and Mallee region. There is further silo art at Rosebery, Patchewollock and Lascelles but it was late afternoon and we had a 1.5 hour drive home. We headed back to the van via Horsham, stopping briefly at Dadswell Bridge to admire the giant koala. 

Forecast for next week is less wind and more sunshine, so with some luck we may achieve a few more walks and get to go swimming.


The Grampians

2018-02-26 to 2018-03-04

We have been a little more active this week after a couple of weeks of inactivity due to bad weather and an unexplained energy drain after departing Tasmania. We started the week in Stawell and were really surprised at what this area had to offer. After our run around the Silo art trail on Sunday I spent Monday morning exploring Stawell. Joan had things to do in the van so I got out of the way. First up decided to do some geocaching and quickly located a cache amongst a rocky outcrop on the edge of town. Feeling accomplis’hed I drove out to the local gold mine for a sticky beck before heading back into town, to the Stawell Athletics Club (SAC), the home of the annual Stawell Gift held each Easter. It is a well kept sports oval, steeped in history with an almost spiritual feel about it. Was surprised driving back into the Caravan park to find that the site now occupied by the van park was the grounds (site) of the original Stawell Gift held Easter 1878.

After lunch Joan and I backtracked to Ararat as it had sparked our interest when we drove though there last week. First stop was the Gum San Chinese Museum, site of the Canton Lead. We went in on a whim and so glad we did, not emerging for about two hours. It was a brilliant museum explaining how the Chinese discovered the Canton lead and are regarded as the founders of Ararat. The museum is interactive and world class. Ararat also has a haunted history being home to the Aradale psychiatric asylum and J-Ward, an asylum for the criminally insane. Both institutions operated for over 100 years but are now open for tourists and ghost tours. It is reported that around 13,000 people died in this facility over its 130 year history. Because of the time spent at Gum San we were too late to catch the last tour of the day at J-Ward so we headed for Aradale to find out it only opened on Sundays and Wednesdays. Guess we were not meant to see the horrors and history of these bizarre facilities. We headed for home but decided we would get into one more tourist attraction that day as  we had to drive through Great Western, the home of Seppelt Wines. We discovered they provided tours of their historic underground drives, 3 kilometres of underground cellars. And guess what? We had just missed the last tour of the day. We settled on a tasting, purchased some bottled souvenirs and on the way home decided we would stay in Stawell a little longer so we could complete some of the tours we had missed. 

So Tuesday morning we were back at Seppelt’s at 11:00am for their underground tour. It was great, learning the story of the Best family, Joseph and Henry, the history of Seppelt and exploring the underground drives. Downside was we then knew that’s we had to also visit the Best Vineyard, planted by Henry Best and still trading under the Best name today, just down the road to get the rest of the story. But first we ventured back into Ararat for the 1:00pm J-Ward Tour. The building was originally the Ararat Goal in the 1850’s but after it closed in the 1880’s it was taken over as J-Ward of the Ararat Lunatic Asylum. This ward went on to house the most depraved and most dangerous men in Victoria in horrific conditions under the highest security. The Ward was closed in 1991. It is now a museum complex dedicated to recording and preserving the history of the criminals imprisoned and three inmates hanged, during the life of the goldfields gaol and later as the infamous maximum security housing for Victoria's Criminally Insane men. A very interesting and sobering tour lasting two hours. Wasn’t surprised to learn Chopper Read got to spend a short incarnation here. On the way back to Stawell we did call into Best’s Winery, tasted their offerings, did the self guided tour, made a contribution to this local small business and departed with a selection of Cab Sav and Shiraz to be enjoyed on another day.

Wednesday we relocated the van 24 kilometres to Halls Gap. It was blowing a gale so we parked the van up at the foot of the mountains and bunkered down for the day. We ventured out late afternoon to get our bearings and visit the information centre. We spent the rest of the week exploring the Grampians, completing a number of walks to lookouts, canyons and waterfalls. It is really a beautiful area with plenty of good walking tracks and sights to be enjoyed. The following is what we achieved this week.

Today is Sunday and as there are a number of walks, some tunnels and lookouts still to be experienced here we have decided to extend our stay a few more days before moving onto the Great Ocean Road segment of this tour. Until next time stay happy and stay safe.


A great week on the Road - The Great Ocean Road.

2018-03-05 to 2018-03-11

Monday and Tuesday in Halls Creek were overcast and windy. We did venture out Monday afternoon to visit Reid’s Lookout and the Balconies. It was a pleasant walk, out of the wind, but the view was hazy. Tuesday was a similar day heading out again after lunch to Pomonal in search of a tunnel that was dug by hand in 1870 through the Mt. William Range to establish a secure water supply from the Grampians to the nearby gold mining town of Stawell. To our surprise, no walking was required, a road (Tunnel Road) took us straight to the sealed entrance of this tunnel. The other surprise was the water tunnel was still in use, depositing water into a sump which was being pumped away presumingly to Stawell as originally planned. Not getting to do a walk I decided to to go in search of a geocache on the edge of town. There were no muggles around and it was a relatively easy find, giving me another successful cache lodged. 

Wednesday we relocated the van to Warrnambool, our chosen base for exploring the western end of the Great Ocean Road (GOR). After setting up at the showground we headed into town to find the Information Centre, discovering there was a lot more to Warrnambool than the GOR, including the Merri Marine Sanctuary, incorporating Middle Island, home to Warrnambool’s famous Maremma dogs which protect the penguin population. This phenomenon was the subject of the popular Australian movie ‘Oddball’.

Thursday morning was taken up exploring Pickering Point. We walked across to Middle Island but it has been closed to the public to protect the growing penguin colony. We walked from Stingray Bay through to Thunder Point overlooking Shelley beach before returning to the car. After a stroll along the Breakwater, we enjoyed a picnic lunch at Lake Pertobe before driving across the Hopkins River to Logans Beach and the impressive Whale Viewing Platform. Wrong time of year for whales but pleasant looking out over Bass Strait. From here we headed for Port Fairy, calling into and having a look around Tower Hill Reserve, just west of Warrnambool; a dormant volcano, which last erupted some 30,000 years ago. You can drive into the crater and around the lakes that surround the volcanic cones. Port Fairy was a hive of activity setting up and preparing for a 3-day folk festival being held there over the weekend.

Friday we headed east for Allansford, start/end of the GOR. Plan for today was to explore the Shipwreck Coast as far as the Twelve Apostles. We have driven the GOR back in 2002, and have seen postcards and documentaries but nothing compares to standing on the edge of a cliff looking out over the blue water at the rugged coastline, sheer cliffs and the colourful jagged rock formations that make up this coastline. This is the first time I have really missed not having my camera. Joan’s point and shot camera just isn’t as crisp or sharp as the Canon and certainly doesn’t capture the real beauty of this Shipwreck Coast. We stopped at and admired the Bay of Islands, Bay of Martyrs and Hallandale Point before stopping in Port Campbell for a fish and chip lunch. After lunch we drove straight to the Twelve Apostles.  A collection of limestone stacks that tower above the water, off the shore of the Port Campbell National Park. We think there is now only nine, as a number of stacks have disintegrated due to the ongoing battle between sea, wind and sandstone. Could not believe how crowded this viewing point was. By the time we explored the headland and descended to the beach via Gibson’s stairs to get the photos we wanted it was 4:00 o’clock so we decided to head back to camp and return the next day to view all the points we intended to call into on the homeward journey but wouldn’t get to that day. We did pop into London Bridge on the way home as parking was available and it was only a short walk to tick this one off our list.

Next day, Saturday, we retraced our drive of the previous day and visited the Grotto, the Arch and Loch Ard Gorge, which also included the Thunder Cave. We settled for a picnic lunch this time in Port Campbell, before enjoying a quick, read refreshing, swim in Port Campbell Bay. It was a warm afternoon but the water was definitely cool.

Sunday was overcast and windy again. There was a market at the showgrounds where we were camped so we visited after morning coffee but before breakfast. Picked up some free range eggs but no other bargains. It may be just me but markets seem to be loosing their appeal and community support. Ended up having a quiet day around the van, doing some grocery shopping, cooked a few chicken cacciatore pies for dinner and sketched out a few rough plans for the coming weeks. Tomorrow we move on. Suspect we will pull up at Apollo Bay.


Small hiatus from our ongoing Hiatus

2018-03-12 to 2018-03-25

What is a break from a hiatus when already on a hiatus? A recess? I’m not sure but that is what we have done for the last week or so, due to bad weather and perhaps the repetition of being on the road for 9 months. Yes I know it’s a 1st world problem but in short I did not write a blog last week as we had little to record or share. Not overly driven to write one this week but if I don’t, this will become the norm and I will grow old and forgetful and not have a record of all the wonderful times and placed we visited. 

So on Monday 12th March we hooked the van up and drove easterly along the Great Ocean Road from Worrnambool arriving at Apollo Bay just after lunch. Had a quick look around in the afternoon and decided we could easily spend a few days here. Tuesday we had a late start but visited a forest reserve called Maits Rest just west of Apollo Bay before venturing out to Cape Otway. On arriving at Cape Otway we realised we had been here before, back in November 2001, when visiting Equitana in Melbourne and friends Dean and Stathia in Geelong. We once again paid our entrance fee and climbed the steps of the lighthouse to view the rugged coastline. We ventured out again Thursday visiting the Great Otway National Park to view The Redwoods, Hopetoun Falls and Triplet Falls. We enjoyed a good feed of prawns from the Harbour Fish & Chips Shop, in Apollo Bay for lunch at Beech Forest.

Thursday we relocated to Geelong. It was a lovely drive but the wind picked up as soon as we set up camp at the Geelong Showgrounds. We had planned to go out for lunch Friday but Joan had a dental emergency so she ended up at the dentist instead. Saturday and Sunday remained windy so we did very little. Saturday we did manage to do lunch at Little Creatures Canteen, a boutique brewery just around the corner from the showgrounds. Sunday was also spend in the van so we snuck out for an evening meal at Lord Nelson Hotel to overcome the onset of cabin fever. Monday still windy so we stayed indoors again. We did manage to get out in the afternoon to do some grocery shopping and we both had haircuts. Tuesday wasn’t very windy so we made an effort to get out and have a look around Geelong. We drove down to Point Lonsdale, miraculously arriving just in time to see the Spirit of Tasmania sail out of Port Phillip Bay thorough Victory Bight into Bass Strait. Joan could not believe our luck! From here we drove around the coast calling into Bells Beach for lunch. We sat on the headland watching contractors erecting stands and media platforms for the 2018 Rip Curl Pro, a surfing event, all happening next week. After lunch we visited the Memorial Arch in Lorne, commemorating the construction of the Great Ocean Road and the Victorians who served in WW1. On the homeward leg we also stopped off and had a walk around Split Point Lighthouse.

Wednesday was windy again and the highlight was another two-hour long lunch at the White Rabbit, another brewery incorporated in the Little Creatures complex. Thursday another quiet day before relocating camp to Shepparton on Friday. Saturday was overcast and raining. We did do some shopping and stocked up with specials and some goodies from the SPC Clearance warehouse. We also did some planning and organised our movements for Easter, next week. We had a couple of phone calls with Denis. Denis and Di are on the road heading from Bouldercombe to Walwa. Looking forward to catching up with the Bouldy crew after Easter as we all congregate in Walwa to celebrate Peter and Jody’s wedding.

Sunday still raining and another day in the van. After lunch Joan went swimming at AquaMoves and I visited the library to access wifi to update apps, upload photos and complete this blog. Tomorrow we move closer to NSW heading for Lake Hume on the NSW/Victorian border near Albury/Wodonga before catching up with the Bouldy crew after Easter.


Glenrowan, Bonegilla and Tallangatta

2018-03-26 to 2018-04-01

Monday was a pleasant drive from Shepparton to Bonegilla, near Wodonga, stopping for a short break at Glenrowan, made famous by Ned Kelly and his gang. We had a wander around the Main Street, found some post cards for the grandkids and then continued onto Boatharbour Caravan Park, on Lake Hume, Bonegilla. The van park was a resort style with pool, spa, jumping pillow and tennis courts. None of this was of much interest, except for the heated spa.  The other positive was the van site allotted to us was huge and we almost had the place to ourselves. Down side was we had planned on using the kayak but the lake was at only 40% capacity and was not very appealing. Joan found another positive in the High Country Rail Trail. 74 kilometres of reclaimed railway track that hugs the shoreline of Lake Hume from Wodonga to Old Tallangatta and then continues onto Corryong. It is now a bike trail but apparently also very attractive for runners. 

Tuesday we drove north over the Murray River, into New South Wales to visit the Hume Dam and spillway. Engineering wise, it was fairly impressive but disappointing that the water level was so low. Wednesday was a day of reflection. We visited the Bonegilla Migrant Centre. This is one of a number of ex-military camps used after WWII to process, house and educate immigrants and refugees from war-torn Europe. This got Joan thinking about her parents when they migrated, in the early 1950’s, from Holland to Australia and if they had spent time in a place like this. Speaking to her dad that evening she learnt they had been processed through Bonegilla but had not stayed there as they had already secured employment and met all the other requirements to live and work in Australia. Joan’s dad went on to work at Savage River, as previously touched on, and also the Snowy Mountains Hydro-Electric Scheme.

Thursday we broke camp and drove the 35klm east along the shoreline of Lake Hume pulling up at the showgrounds in Tallangatta. Joan was pleased to find that the High Country Rail trail ran right behind our van. That afternoon we went for a walk along the rail trail exploring the Sandy Creek Rail Bridge area. We also went for a drive to the location of the old Tallangatta township, a further 8klm east of the existing township. In 1952 the township was relocated due to the Hume Dam level being raised to capture and contain more water. In the drier summer months the water recedes and the footprint of the original town is exposed and can be viewed from the highway.

Friday (Good Friday) was a warm clear blue sky day so we took the opportunity to go kayaking. As the water level was so low we initially had trouble finding access to the water. We found a useable boat ramp at Huon. Had a good paddle, first in awhile, though it was a little eerie paddling between all the dead trees still scattered throughout the lake. The weird thing being, exposure to water over time has turned the deadwood black, giving the impression they are burnt tree remains rather than bare drowned tree trunks. Unfortunately when driving out of the reserve we sustained our second punctured tyre in 6 months. The last one being at Paris Dam in Tasmania. Not sure what it is with access roads to dams but it must be about 10 years since I have had to change a tyre.

Saturday morning was taken up driving back into Wodonga to get the tyre repaired. Had a lazy Saturday afternoon around the van slipping out for a short time to visit the Tallangatta Lookout.

Easter Sunday was a quiet day. Started off with a surprise. Thought we had slept in but we hadn’t as unbeknown to us it was the end of daylight savings and the clocks had all been put back an hour. Once again spent the morning around the van. After lunch I went to the library to access wifi to do my weekly update of apps and write/upload the draft of this blog. Was surprised to hear cheering and clapping coming from the Tallagatta Hotel and even more surprised when I went to investigate to discover Easter Sunday ferret races underway. At the conclusion of the racing I took the short drive to Huon to do some caching along the rail trail and successfully located and recorded another find.

Anyway that’s about it for this week. Hope you all have a great week.


Catching up with the Bouldy Crew.

2018-04-02 to 2018-04-08

Easter Monday we packed up camp in Tallangatta and followed the Murray River east till we arrived at Walwa and set up on the grassy banks of the Murray River. We were in Walwa to celebrate the wedding of friends from Central Queensland who for reasons unknown to us had decided to get married in Walwa to coincide with the Man from Snowy River festival being held in nearby Corryong. It was easy for us as we were already in Victoria but a contingent of other friends and family were making there way down for the big day. Denis and Di, from Bouldy had arrived just ahead of us and were camped about six sites up from us. Next day Gordon and Dianne arrived, as did Mick & Elaine who were staying at the Uopper Murray Cottages.

Tuesday Denis, Di, Joan and I started exploring the area. First stop was the historic village of Tintaldra. These days just a hotel and the historic General Store which has been converted to a Devonshire Teahouse and Museum. We got to met the owner of the store, the very active 90 year old bush poet Betty Walton who gave us a personal tour and demonstration of the working pianola. From here we moved onto to Bluff Falls. A short walk to a lookout and and a few stairs to the base of the falls. Unfortunately there was only a trickle of water running so not very spectacular. We returned to camp for lunch before launching the kayak in the Murray. We paddled upstream as far as a rapid before drifting back to our camp. Di had a hot seat change with Joan and we then paddled downstream towards Jingellic. Once again progress was halted by the onset of rapids distinguishing our plan of making it to the Jingellic Hotel.

Wednesday was a quiet day around camp catching up with the rest of the Bouldy crew. That night we all gathered at the Bridge Hotel in Jingellic for a meal and a pre-wedding get together. Although tables had been pre-booked, the pub was not prepared and understaffed, so order taking and meal preparation was a little chaotic, but the food and night ended up very enjoyable.

Thursday was Jody and Peter’s wedding. It was a beautiful ceremony and fun reception. Friday Denis, Di, Joan and I headed out again. This time for Corryong to check out the Man from Snowy River Bush Festival, the weekend that the population of this small town swells from 1,200 to an estimated 25,000. The two main events on that day were the re-enactment of the namesake poem and the afternoon street parade. After seeing the line up to the re-enactment site, the sea of caravans surrounding the town and camped on every available piece of flat ground, the number of people milling around the Information Centre and the street market we decided to abandon our festival ambitions and decided to check out nearby Khancoban, home of the ‘snowyhydro’ Murray Power stations and Visitor Centre. National Parks & Wildlife Service (NPWS) advised Murray 1 was currently closed but Murray 2 was open. We enjoyed a tour of the hydro power station, before returning to Khancoban township for lunch and a stroll around the Khancoban Pondage and spill way.

Saturday was a casual day. We broke camp and followed Denis and Di from Walwa to Holbrook, visiting the Otway submarine before having coffee and saying our goodbyes. We headed for Gundagai and Denis and Di started for home, heading for Young that night. We booked into the River Caravan Park on the banks of the Murrumbidgee River. Once settled we visited the Information Centre and did some shopping.

Sunday we got our bearings, visiting both the Southern and Northern lookouts, before visiting the Dog on the Tucker Box at Snake Gully ‘5 miles from Gundagai’. Got the opportunity to replicate a photo my dad took of me at this iconic location back in 1958. Also spent some time checking out the ‘managed historic ruins’ of the Prince Alfred Bridge (921m) and the similar looking and sized Railway Viaduct. Think we are going to enjoy Gundagai and the surrounding Riverina districts.


A week of history and a country show

2018-04-09 to 2018-04-15

Woke to a beautiful day in Gundagai Monday morning. Had a quiet morning around the van with domestic duties but headed for Tumut after lunch, with our eye on Blowering Dam as a possible kayaking opportunity. Didn’t get to launch the kayak but had a good walk along the dam wall and surrounds. Was surprised to learn that this was the location, 8th October 1978, that Newcastle born Ken Warby set the world water speed record in his jet powered boat ‘Spirit of Australia’ at 511 km/hour. On the way home we called into the Tumut Labyrinth for Peace, featuring the sun and planets. We have found a few labyrinths during our travels. The previous one was a large loose stone one on the outskirts of Lightning Ridge.

Tuesday also another perfect autumn day however I spent the morning at the library updating apps and some other online tasks. After lunch we went for a walk around the flood plain between the two derelict bridges where the original townsite of Gundagai was located before it was washed away in 1852 along with 89 of its inhabitants. Viewing a monument commemorating the National School that was located on this site I thought this would be a great place for a geocache. I checked the data base on my iPhone,  took about 5 steps and located a very easy find. What a bonus. 

Wednesday another perfect day and a +30 deg day so we launched the kayak in the Murrumbidgee River just downstream from the Sheahan Bridge and paddled upstream, carrying the kayak over one set of rapids. Took us about 1 hour to paddle upstream the 2.2klm to the old Prince Alfred Bridge, but only 15 minutes to drift back to our starting point. It was quite a workout going against the current but a very enjoyable paddle once completed.

Thursday I went on a geocache hunt quickly locating two. The first near a monument celebrating Yarri, an aboriginal who saved 49 residents during the 1852 floods. The other cache was on the summit of Mt Parnassus, the northern lookout. From here I ventured down to the now closed Gundagai Railway Station and spent an hour taking photos and talking with the museum caretaker. A lot of history and railway nostalgia housed in these 1885 buildings.

Friday we broke camp and headed for Young, our next waypoint. We had a stop at Cootamundra to stretch our legs and walk the Captains Walk in Jubilee Park which features 42 bronze sculptures of Australian Test Cricket Captains. The display starts with Dave Gregory 1876 and currently finishes with Michael Clarke. Cootamundra has a strong connection with cricket, being the birthplace of Sir Donald Bradman. Bradman gets additional attention with a life-sized statue depicting his typical cover drive stance in addiction to his bust. 

After setting up in Young we did our normal familiarisation drive, visit to the information centre and shopping at Aldi. Saturday we left the van mid-morning and drove 40 minutes to Bribbaree to attend their annual Show and Shine/Horse Gymkhana. What a day and what a great country show. Not many people but plenty to see. The showgrounds was divided into four quadrants, each with different events on offer. Firstly was the show and shine. This area had vintage cars, street cars, bikes and trucks. Next area was devoted to lawn mower racing. Over the back was a display of heritage tractors participating in a tractor pull competition. The other sport on offer was horse events with the normal run of gymkhana events; barrels, bending etc. The Gymkhana also included a whip cracking course and an obstacle course that would certainly have tested their dressage savvy city cousins. It certainly required a bomb proof horse and was not completed by a number of these experienced stock saddle riding country kids (and adults). 

Woke Sunday to overcast skies, a cold front and threatening rain. Needless to say we did not venture far (outside). After lunch we did take a run out to Lambing Flats to walk around the Chinese Tribute Gardens and Dam. We returned to the van park via the showgrounds, successfully locating another geocache. The car is booked in tomorrow for some new tyres and Thursday we head to Canowindra for the Hot Balloon Challenge.


Young, Cowra and Canowindra

2018-04-17 to 2018-04-22

We started this week in Young. We were marking time till Thursday when we were due in Canowindra, our first foray into event volunteering. Canowindra (pronounced Kan-nown-dra) is host to an international ballon challenge each April. We did not know what to expect but we had volunteered to help out at the 10 day event for the experience, to try something different and obviuosly a great  opportunity for some colourful balloon photos.  Also thought we might be lucky enough to go flying. 

Monday, in Young, was a quiet day. Booked the car in for some new tyres in the morning and potted around the van in the afternoon. Tuesday we were a bit more energetic and tackled the Young Heritage Walk around Lambing Flat, now known as Young. It was an educational and interesting two hour stroll. There is a lot more to Young than our first impressions. In addition to viewing some elegant buildings and their associated history, the story of the gold rush, the civil unrest towards the Chinese by the miners, the reading of ‘The Riot Act’ and the ensuing encounter between miners and police in 1861. Later that afternoon we went for a drive out of town and come across the little village of Wombat. Nothing special nor memorable at Wombat except for a small bronze wombat statue. 

Wednesday morning we returned to the historic district and spent a couple of hours viewing and digesting all the artefacts at the Lambing Flat Folk Museum, located in the 1883 School building. A lot of pioneering Australianna but the main display was dedicated to the 1861 riots, including the original ‘Roll Up’ flag carried by the rioting miners.

Thursday we broke camp and made our way to Canowindra, calling into Cowra along the way for lunch and to spend time at the Japanese Gardens and visit the Cowra Peace Precinct, location of the WWII Interment and P.O.W. camp and site of the August 1944 ‘breakout’, resulting in over 230 Japanese being killed, suiciding or dying from wounds received. Four Australian soldiers also lost their lives during the escape and the ensuing round up of escaped prisoners. Mid afternoon we arrived at the Canowindra showgrounds and secured our site in the volunteer’s section. We were excited, late Thursday afternoon, when a balloon was inflated just behind our van and disappeared into the late afternoon sun. Friday we learnt that the competition didn’t start till Monday but the next three days would be practice days and we would have the opportunity to see a number of balloons being inflated, flying and practising allotted tasks. We took this time to meet and get to know our fellow volunteers. The organisers called upon us to assist with odd jobs and Joan received systems training in the office. Late Sunday afternoon a volunteers meeting (there was now a group of about 50 off) was held and the various jobs on offer were explained. We ended up with a variety of jobs. Joan selected certain shifts in the office and we were both allotted to target teams and balloon crews.

Looking forward to the week ahead. Sure we will be a lot wiser and balloon smart by the end of the week.


Canowindra International Balloon Challenge

2018-04-23 to 2018-04-29

We were volunteers this week at the Canowindra International Balloon Challenge, in Canowindra (pronounced Kan-now-dra). Joan was allocated shifts in the office, booking in campers, answering queries and ticket sales. I was allocated to a target team. As well, both of us were assigned to the Hummingbird Balloon Team. The Hummingbird was not a competition balloon but more of a promotional novelty balloon, referred to as a ‘shape’. In short it was a great week, long days with I nteresting tasks, great people and we learnt a lot about ballooning.

Each day started at 5:30am with a pilots briefing and task allocation. It was at this meeting the pilots were advised the challenge that had been set for that morning, along with the tasks they had to compete, the scoring, time constraints, launch site(s) and other instructions. A lot of this was dependent on wind conditions and modelled atmospheric predictions from sunrise till mid morning. Most competitions commenced at sunrise, just after 6:30am and concluded at 9:00am. Most days the pilots had 4 or 5 tasks to complete. The entire competition, over 6 days totalled 26 individual tasks. The tasks required the pilots to exercise skill in manoeuvring their balloons over a set course with goals, targets, scoring areas, time and distance limits. Maximum points per task was 1000.

Our job, once the tasks and locations were advised, entailed getting to the nominated co-ordinates, and setting up the required targets or scoring areas, before the balloons arrived. Some tasks were complex and involved multiple drops with varying measurement rules. It was then our job to measure coloured and numbered markersin accordance with the task instructions (e.g. closest to target, minimum distance between two markers within declared dropped zone) to calculate points earned.

Balloons also flew most afternoons, around 4:30pm till sunset, but not for competition points. These flights were for supplementary prizes, practice and to give non-competition (fiesta) pilots additional hours and participation. 

We were also allocated to the hummingbird team, an American owned (Doug & Pattie) large bird shaped balloon. This involved us assisting with the inflating of the balloon and then chasing the balloon by car to their landing location, to assist with the deflating and folding up the 650 lb (300kg) balloon. This was fun and an entirely new skill set and ballooning competencies. 

Final day of competition was Saturday. Saturday evening an evening market, Balloon glow, challenge results and prizes presentation, as well as a concert by Peter Byrne, a Neil Diamond tribute show. Saturday afternoon we were on gate duty early afternoon whilst the grounds were in lockdown prior to the gates opening at 3:30pm. During the glow we were supposed to be involved in crowd control but at the last moment we were enlisted to assist with the hummingbird. We were looking forward to the glow as it was advertised as a spectacular light and sound show and a photographers dream. It involves a large group of balloons being set up in a line, flaring in time to music. Unfortunately the wind blew up and started gusting, meaning we were kept busy trying to control and prematurely deflating the big bird and missed the main event. The glow spectacular was cut short as even the smaller balloons were being buffeted around. After the shorten glow the Neil Diamond tribute kicked off which turned out to be an enjoyable nostalgic concert. 

Sunday morning the organisers ran a fun sponsored event known as a key grab were balloonists fly in and try to snatch a key mounted onto of a flagpole. It was a fun event and great for the spectators. After lunch we visited the Age of Fishes Museum; a collection of locally found 360 million year old Devonian fish fossils. The only collection in the Southern Hemisphere.

Not sure were we will end up this week but we are definitely homeward bound.


Homeward bound

2018-04-30 to 2018-05-08

After a memorable week at the Canowindra International Balloon Challenge we had a relaxed and late departure, on Monday, from the showgrounds, our home for the past 10 days. We headed north finding our way back onto familiar roads arriving at Wellington for lunch. We lunched at a familiar coffee shop we had patronised last time we were here. It did not disappoint and although we had previously decided to pull up at Pronto Falls that day we pushed on and made our way to Dubbo, to reduce the driving time to our next planned stop; Moree. 

After setting up and visiting the Information Centre we decided to stay an extra day to do some washing and visit some of the local sights, we had not included in previous visits here. So after completing our domestic duties Tuesday morning we visited the Dubbo Cultural Centre & Museum. After a pie for lunch we headed out to the Shoyoen Japanese Gardens. Tuesday evening we packed up the annex and associated items to give us an early start in the morning.

Wednesday we got away by 9:30am and knocked over the 360klm  run to Moree without issue. This is our 3rd stay at the Gwydir Carapark and they did not disappoint. We were rewarded with a huge grassy site in the western section. Camp was set up and we were in the hot pools by 2:30pm. We spent most of Thursday and Friday soaking in the pools, taking time out each afternoon to visit their 25m indoor pool at their other property, just around the corner, known as the Hot Spring.  Friday evening we again packed up the exterior of the van for an early get away next day.

Saturday was an even bigger day. We normally drive Moree to Miles but whilst having lunch at Moodie we decided to push onto Taroom, as it is a little closer to home and would get us home earlier the following day. It ended up a 458klm drive when we pulled up at the recently reopened Taroom Caravan & Tourist Park. It is still very much a work in progress but should end up a good waypoint, in the future.

Sunday we bounced along the Dawson Highway, down through Mount Morgan arriving back at home base just in time for lunch. We spent the afternoon kickstarting the house. I was pleasantly surprised, the septic, water pumps, hot water, power and internet all came back to life with no dramas. Now just have to empty, clean and winterise the caravan.    

Metrics for this leg of the Adventure before Dementia Tour, including Tasmania, are as follows:

Away from home = 280 days

Number of waypoints = 72 places

Total kilometres travelled = 23,472 km

Kilometres towing van = 10,826 km. (46% of klm travelled)

Amount of diesel consumed = 3,352.5 ltr

Cost of diesel consumed = $4,451.05

Average cost of diesel/ltr = 132.8 cpl 

Average fuel consumption = 14.35ltr/100km 

Best ltr/100 km = 10.23 ltr

Highest ltr/100km = 18.92 ltr.

Nights Free/Low Cost Camping = 76 nights

Nights in Caravan Parks = 198 nights

Additional summary data on route and places visited can be found on the following link https://trackmytour.com/HjlJg


Testing for George

2018-07-25 to 2018-08-20

This is just a test. We have been back at home base since early May. The intent was to spend sometime with family, complete some maintenance on the van and head for WA early August. Unfortunately sometimes things happen outside our control which force us to reevaluate and change our plans. In this instance Joan’s dad suffered a stroke mid June and has had ongoing medical issues ever since. Currently he is convalescing in Rockhampton Hospital and our Adventure before Dementia Tour is on hold until his issues are resolved and he is sorted. I have spent this downtime doing some family history research and cataloguing the thousands of photos we have captured over the past few years on the road.


Solo Tour - Week 1

2019-01-07 to 2019-01-15

Joan’s dad is recovering but Joan is still not comfortable in departing for Western Australia (WA) and leaving him in aged care. Joan also has some other commitments and things to attend to before making the pilgrimage westward. Thinking we would already be on the road I had made some preliminary plans and decided to attend to these as well as catch up with some family and friends between now and our revised departure date; early April 2019.

So, on Monday 7th January I packed the van and headed out without a co-pilot on my solo tour. It took me three days to reach my first destination, the Great Eastern Fly In (GEFI) at Evans Head Memorial Aerodrome, NSW, ’where the sky meets the sea’. On route I overnighted at the GIn GIn RV Rest Area and the Caboolture Showgrounds. GEFI is advertised as Australia’s friendliest flying event held each January where flying families congregate, catch up and have a short holiday. For spectators there are a number of warbirds, ultralights, powered gliders, biplanes and numerous other flying machines coupled with air displays, joy flights, a historic museum complete with a F-111 on site, a classic car show, food stalls and a market. 

I had volunteered to help the organising committee, so along with about 20 other volunteers arrived on the Wednesday and spent Thursday and Friday erecting barricades, parking areas, information signs and shade shelters. Saturday and Sunday involved people and vehicle management along with sanitation and garbage duties. Monday was dismantling and packing away in preparation for next year. All in all, it was a great experience and a very enjoyable weekend. Perfect weather, a great crew of volunteers and a dedicated and professional organising committee, resulting in a world-class, safe event. Although working, I certainly enjoyed the atmosphere and watching the warbirds go through their paces along with the Paul Bennet’s Pitts biplane Sky Ace spectacular. 

The weather forecast for this week was extreme with high temperatures predicted to reach 40°C or higher so Tuesday I packed up camp and headed for the high country. Being school holidays the coastal areas are still packed and overpriced so I decided altitude would be my friend and saviour. Glad I did, as I stumbled upon the Mann River Caravan and Canoe Park, 42 kilometres west of Grafton at Jackadgery. There is nothing here other than a garage, and an adjoining caravan park with spacious and grassy camping sites and a swimming pool. The camp ground is situated next to the clear cool running waters of the Mann River, surrounded by mountain ranges and big sky. The perfect location to chill out the next few days while the remainder of Australia swelters, or as my grandmother used to say ‘stew in their own juice’.

Life is good. Until next time stay safe and happy.


Solo Tour - Weeks 2 & 3

2019-01-16 to 2019-01-31

After 3 days kicking back swimming and enjoying the serenity of Jackadgery I broke camp Friday morning and headed towards Glenn Innis where I had lunch at the Australian Standing Stones. After lunch and exploring the park I headed for Armidale to complete the next task I had set myself on this tour. That was to locate and reacquaint with old friends, Lee and Trevor C. They lived near us during our Nanango days. We stayed in touch after leaving Nanango but eventually lost touch. Last time we visited them was late 1990’s when they were living in Armidale, NSW. Through Facebook I located their grown children and the first setback of this tour. Lee passed away 2016 and Trevor 2017. I spent Saturday searching the Armidale Presbyterian Cemetery, but was unable to locate their final resting place. Google was of no assistance and being a weekend the Council offices were closed. Their kids no longer live in Armidale so were not available to help. I spoke with Luke (their son) on the Monday and he promised to send details, but my goodbyes will have to wait till next time we pass that way, as I had already moved onto Singleton on the Sunday. Had a couple of stops while driving down the New England Highway, on the Sunday. The first was to view Thunderbolt’s grave at Uralla and the other was at the First Fleet Memorial Gardens, Wallabadah. I arrived and set up camp at Singleton Showgrounds mid-afternoon.

Monday was a very enjoyable day. Caught up with long time friend and colleague, Simon and his wife Deb. Simon treated me to a flight in his 2-seater aeroplane around Scone and the Hunter Valley. We got to fly over our old house at Aberdeen, Dartbrook Mine and Liddell Power Station. A perfect day for flying, unfortunately a little hazy but a perfect afternoon in every other aspect. As was the evening meal provided by Deb. Bonus being a surprise dinner guest, another former work colleague Darren S.

Tuesday, relocated to Maitland and set up camp at the Maitland Showgrounds. Ended up spending 9 days here, catching up with my sister Annemarie and her husband David. Also had a visit from our niece Angela and her family enroute to Harrington from Tasmania. I also got to catch up and spend a couple of days with lifelong friend Michael M. Also visited my cousin Cathy O’Connell and was reacquainted with Chris T., a high school classmate. My spare time during these 9 days was spent digitalising Mum and Dad’s photo albums and other documentation. Also spent most of my time with Michael reviewing old photos and reminiscing. Between my parent’s albums and Michael I left with a treasure trove of photos and memories. There is certainly something special about catching up with old mates. I particularly like the seamless integration of the lost years and the immediate bond and understanding that somehow is immediately restored. Thanks Michael.

I did take one day out, Monday, to visit some caravanning friends on the Central Coast at Long Jetty. It was certainly great catching up with Marilyn and John. Had a great lunch and shared some good stories. 

Thursday, a day of surprises. Firstly I relocated from Maitland to Sydney, electing to camp at the Lane Cove River Tourist Park (LCRTP), attached to Lane Cove NP. First surprise it was 40°C+. Not very pleasant at all, however the LCRTP turned out to be one of the better caravan parks I have ever encountered. Approximately 10 minutes drive from Sydney CBD, but a green oasis, with large powered and watered camping sites, a large swimming pool and immaculate amenities. Other than the occasional overhead plane no road or train noise, and the buffer of trees completely hides the concrete jungle just over the rise. All of this provided and managed by NSW National Parks and Wildlife Service. Must be the best park ranger gig in NSW.

Tomorrow, Friday, I catch up with another lifelong friend, Garry G. The 3rd amigo of my school years, adolescent and early adult years. Garry has not been in the best of health lately, so a little hesitant about what tomorrow will hold, but in Garry’s words ‘it will be great to catch up with you and talk a lot of shit’.

Until next time stay happy and safe.


Good bye to a mate

2019-02-01 to 2019-03-31

My catch up with Garry did not go as planned. Garry had told me he had not been well but did not elaborate on his problems. As I was unable to meet him in Maitland on 21st January as he had suggested I had given him some alternate dates and he was to phone and confirm time and place for our catch up. He never rang and was not answering his mobile when I tried contacting him again.  I did however get a call from Paul, his brother. Paul quickly bought me up to speed. Garry had been diagnosed with lung cancer just over a year ago. He had chemo but the cancer had spread to his bones late 2018 and he had been given a prognosis of perhaps only 12 months. He had been in Maitland finalising plans for the short time he had left. On returning to Sydney he had a medical episode and by the time I had the phone call from Paul, Garry was in the Prince of Wales Hospital, Randwick, diagnosed with a brain tumour. I did get to spend some time with Garry over the next week but it was obvious he was not getting out of there. We did not have that beer and we certainly didn’t get to talk about all the shit we wanted to. Garry was too tired, too broken and too far gone. He found peace at 10:00pm Monday 4th March, 2019. Although relieved he was no longer suffering his passing really upset me. He along with Michael Miller, was a true life long friend and now he was gone. 

Garry, Michael and I went through school together. Garry and I were both alter boys, Boy Scouts and rugby league referees. Michael, Garry and I were part of a larger posse, but we had a special bond being Rutherford boys even share housing in Sydney post school days. All through high school and beyond we shared all our major milestones, life events , motor cars, free time. As our lives evolved we did drift apart. I moved to the Northern Territory, Michael and Garry remained in Sydney.  We did however continued to catch up whenever possible. Michael and Garry often ran and trained for marathons together. Whenever we caught up the gap years evaporated immediately and the seamless mateship, understanding and mutual respect won through. 

Garry was laid to rest Friday, 15th March 2019, in his hometown of Maitland. Michael, Joan and I supported each other through this service, and it was a celebration of a true gentleman and a great mate. It was comforting and rewarding to hear others talk about the things Garry had achieved throughout his life, the people he had touched and the simple things he did that impacted so many. We mingled with Garry’s siblings and other relatives, his work colleagues and his golfing buddies. I am proud to say Garry was my mate. He along with Michael and my parents moulded the person I am today. 

My only regret is it was too long between drinks and I feel deprived we missed out on one last binge. This whole episode has only reinforced the fact we all have a ‘best by’ date and we should make the most of everyday to ensure we make the most of our time here. I have pledged to make the time to catch up with old friends and colleagues, talk some shit, have a few drinks and celebrate what we have done and what we have, because one day soon it will be too late and I certainly don’t want others or myself going to the grave not knowing how important or special they, their friendship, mentoring and just being them meant to me.

Garry Gaffney 5/10/1954 - 4/3/2019. RIP


Week 1 - WA Leg - Queensland East Coast

2019-04-07 to 2019-04-21

After celebrating my 65th birthday with family and friends we spent a fantastic week with the all the grandkids. We visited May Downs where the kids enjoyed each other’s company as well as riding horses, riding on farm machinery, swimming, watching movies and demonstrating their scooter skills at the every skate park we drove past. It was a great week but by Saturday 13th April we were back at home finalising the house for the house-sitters and packing the van in preparation for our 9 month Western Australian (WA) leg of our Adventure before Dementia Tour. This trip will involve travelling up and across Queensland, up and through the Northern Territory, down the entire west coast of Western Australia, through South Australia to New South Wales and eventually home to Queensland. WikiCamps estimates this to be 14,200 kilometres ignoring day trips and and other incidental touring.

Sunday 14th we departed home-base at lunchtime, stopping overnight at Grasstree Beach, near Mackay. Thanks Brian & Julie for your hospitality and great barramundi fish dinner. Monday we made the now familiar trek to Horseshoe Bay at Bowen; a favourite waypoint of ours. A great caravan park and beautiful little beach. Bonus this time around, not many campers and we almost had the whole place to ourselves. Tuesday we explored the Cape Edgecumbe Walking Track. A 4 klm circuit track. We started at Horseshoe Bay and visited The Rotary Lookout, Greys Bay Lookout, WWll Radar Side Lookout eventually arriving at Murray Bay. We could have continued onto Rose Bay but elected to walk back to Horseshoe Bay via the road as it was time for lunch. 

Wednesday was a quiet day, doing some shopping, rearranging the van and having a refreshing dip in the both the ocean and the park pool. Thursday morning we packed the van up and made our way to Kelso on the outskirts of Townsville, in the the shadows Lake Ross. Our friends Doug and Lyn have a lifestyle block there. It turned out to be a perfect location, to relax, kick back and catch up with old mates. We drank, we talked, we reminisced, we listened to good music and totally escaped from the world for a few days. Thanks guys; a perfect start to our WA adventure. Applying the three day rule for fish and visitors, we packed up Sunday morning and made our way west to Hughenden. We should be in Katherine around Anzac Day and into WA by month end.

Thanks again Brian & Julie, and Doug & Lyn. Two excellent waypoints made all the more special by the hosts and their hospitality. At the end of the day the most valuable things we have are family and mates.

Until next time stay safe and happy.


Week 2 - WA Leg - Travelling through the NT

2019-04-22 to 2019-04-28

This has been a week of getting from point A to point B. We left Doug and Lyn’s last Sunday and the aim was to get to Katherine as quickly as was comfortable, as in our minds the WA Tour does not begin till we cross the WA border and arrive in Kununurra. Then we can slow down and smell the wild flowers.

Sunday we travelled to Hughenden (QLD) = 396 klm

Monday we travelled to Cloncurry (QLD) = 399 klm

Tuesday we travelled to Barkly Homestead (NT) = 571 klm

Wednesday we travelled to Dunmarra (NT) = 517 klm

Thursday we travelled to Mataranka (NT) = 205 klm and we stayed 2 nights

Saturday we travelled the last 134 klm to Liz and Ian’s, Katherine (NT). 

The WA border is only 520 klm from our current camp and we should get there sometime next week.

Total kilometres travelled this week was 2,222 kilometres. Most expensive fuel was 198.9 cpl at Barkly Homestead. At a number of other stops the diesel was in the high 170 cpl or high 180 cpl price bracket, roughly 33% more expensive than at home-base.

Overall though it has been a week of nostalgia, not just days of long straight roads and lots of kilometres. Forty three years ago (April 1976), Doug Alderson and I set off from Maitland, NSW, on our life-changing trip to the NT. Two university engineering student drop outs, loaded all their worldly possessions into Doug’s XLR 2-door Holden Torana, and we headed for the  wild and unknown outback of the NT. For reasons I cannot remember, in 1976 we did not travel up through central Queensland but elected to go up the east coast of Australia to Rockhampton towards Townsville veering off to travel via Woodstock, then west along the Flinders Highway to Mt Isa. I remember waking up early Sunday morning, 25 April 1976 to the Anzac dawn service in Cloncurry. This trip, we have followed almost the identical route. We stayed in Cloncurry Tuesday this week 23rd April 2019, almost 43 years to the date. No wonder my thoughts this week have drifted back to our original youthful, spur of the moment, adrenaline fuelled, adventurous escape from Sydney and the establishment. We were free, we were going to make a fortune and answer to no one. Did not quite work out that way, but travelling the endless straight flat roads this week I had plenty of time to ponder all the things that have happened since then and glad we made that rash decision all those years ago. It was also timely that I spent time with Doug last week when passing through Townsville. Life has been good. As expected the roads have improved and better infrastructure now abounds. Lots of rest areas, no more Mad Max like Barry Caves and Frewena fuel stops on the Barkly Highway.  Also the Barkly Homestead has been built to provide a luxuary oasis for weary travellers. The Homestead provides motel accommodation, powered camp sites, modern fuel and hotel services not to mention wi-fi, mobile phone service and free-to-air television. Hardly the isolated wild interior anymore.

Threeways has not changed much over the years, though the road is now south of the Hotel/Garage rather than north as we remember it. Also glad to report Dunmarra hasn’t changed much. Still no television, phone or internet coverage. Joan and I last stayed here in 1983 after being stranded on the Tanami Track (then 180 klm rough stony track, now the Buchanan Highway) for a few days. A result of two flat tyres and and only one spare. We had been visiting Joan’s dad at Wave Hill with Nikki, then 3 years old and Kathy, just a baby, travelling in a Toyota Corolla station wagon; probably not the best choice for outback 4WD country. We were returning home to Darwin.

Thursday (Anzac Day) we called into Larrimah. I worked here, for Co-Ord, as a Railway labourer for a short time in 1976, unloading containers from road trains onto the Darwin bound train. The gantry has been dismantled and only the pub remains. From here we moved onto Mataranka where we spent two days soaking, swimming and snorkelling in the hot springs. After five days in the car, this was heaven. Saturday we moved onto Katherine. In 1976 this was our destination and where all those years ago I met and fell in love with Joan, now my wife and life partner. This time we stopped to visit family, Lis (Joan’s sister) and her husband Ian. Had a relaxed afternoon talking family stuff and reliving the years. Sunday was an absolute brilliant day visiting Edith Falls with Lis and Ian. Edith Falls is one of our favourite spots with many memories and still one of the best swimming holes in Australia. Also captured a rare photo opportunity in the Edith Falls carpark highlighting the popularity and diversity of NT visitors. Six random cars parked together, one from each mainland Australian State - NT, WA, NSW, QLD, SA & VIC.

We will spend a few more days in Katherine before heading further west to to start our WA Tour. Until next time stay safe and happy.


Week 3 - WA Leg - Katherine to Kununurra

2019-04-29 to 2019-05-05

Monday we were still in Katherine and it was catch up with old friends day. While Joan went and spent a few hours with her school friend Browyn, I caught up with an old acquaintance and drinking mate from the seventies, Ted Sharp. Ted was the NTEC linesman supervisor in Katherine back then, a little older than us but a friendly guy, a keen fisherman who also owned a boat and knew some good fishing spots on the Roper River. We had some good times and drank a lot of white and green cans, back in the day.  Ted came to our wedding but we didn’t see much of him after that. He is now 83, living independently and though older still Sharpie. We relived some good memories on Monday and Ted surprised me with his recall, he still has his quick wit, strong opinions and colourful language. He no longer smokes but still enjoys a drink and a punt on Wednesday’s. Next year he will celebrate living in Katherine for fifty years.

Monday night we went out for dinner at the Katherine Club with Lis and Ian and their eldest daughter, Samantha (Joan’s niece) and her husband Jason. Tuesday we packed up camp and moved westward to The Victoria (Vic) River. Had a quiet night on the banks of the Vic before heading off in the morning to Timber Creek, then further west finally crossing the border mid afternoon. No hassles with the biosecurity check at the border, we turned our clocks back 1.5 hours and arrived at Lake Argyle giving us plenty of time to set up, check out the dam and have a swim in their infinity pool. Lake Argyle Resort has certainly changed since our last visit there, April 1980. Nicol was only a baby and as we, were trying to prove having a baby would not change our lifestyle, we had a camping holiday here with Lee Miller, a friend from Maitland who had ventured north to see the new addition to our family. Thursday we trekked down Jessie’s Trail and had an enjoyable swim in the Lake Argyle. After lunch we visited Argyle Downs Homestead, the home of Patsy Durrack in the late 1800’s. The Homestead was relocated to its current location due to the construction of Lake Argyle. It is now a museum. Joan has a connection to this building insofar as her father worked on the original building in the 1960’s and she and her siblings used to play in the front yard of the station yard which is now well under the waters of Lake Argyle . Due to the Resort being booked out for their annual 10 kilometre lake swim on Saturday we located to Kununurra on Friday.

Friday afternoon we visited the Information Centre and quickly decided that there was plenty of things to see and do around Kununurra for at least a week. We also picked up our WA’s National Parks Annual Pass, giving us access to 135 parks to explore here in the west. Saturday morning we visited our first park; Mirima NP bordering the township of Kununurra. It had some spectacular wind-blown natural rock formations, but no water and being very hot and extremely humid we soon relocated to the swim beach just above the Division Dam on the other side of town. We had a quick swim but did not linger as although the locals assured us no salt water crocs inhabit above the dam wall, just freshwater crocs, we elected to be safe and live another day rather than make the ‘Dumb Tourist taken by Croc’ headline in the local paper.

Sunday morning we had a lazy morning around the van. After lunch we headed just north of Kununurra to the lookout at Kelly’s Knob to oversee the town and surrounding areas. From here we drove thirty kilometres west of town to Molly Springs, a gorgeous little spring fed pool and waterfall. The pool was only a few metres across but a lovely shady place to swim. On the way home we called into Valentine Springs and the Ord River Diversion Dam, designed to divert and regulate the flow of water from the Ord River into the Ord Irrigation area through 20 radial gates mounted within a concrete framework and spillway structure. 

It has been a great week and now the race to get to WA is over we really do feel that we are back in the groove and on the road again. Until next time stay happy and safe.


Week 4 - WA Leg - Kununurra the gift that kept on giving.

2019-05-06 to 2019-05-12

What a week. We spent this week exploring Kununurra and the surrounding areas. We travelled a lot of dirt roads, crossed numerous creek crossings and walked many kilometres along and beside stoney creek beds through gorges and a Chasm. The reward being hot springs, billabongs, sheer red cliffs and incredible hidden gems in the forms of swimming holes or aboriginal artefacts.

Monday was a big day. We headed out of Kununurra and headed north. The first stop was the Ivanhoe Crossing across the Lower Ord River giving us access to Parry’s Creek Road, the back road from Kununurra to Wyndham which follows the original road and stock route to Ivanhoe Station. All up about 80 klm of teeth rattling corrugated dirt road and a couple of great 4WD side excursions to waterholes. The first being Middle Spring and the second being Black Rock. Both picturesque but low due to the poor wet season. Neither had water flowing into them but their water was clean and inviting. Eight kilometres from the end of the dirt road we came across Perry Creek Farm. Another oasis in this barren but beautiful land. A farm stay with a cafe. We enjoyed lunch here before moving onto Parry’s Lagoon and Marlgu Billabong. Both were dry and no sign of bird life. We arrived in Wyndham about 1 o’clock and spend the next 3 hours taking in the surprising number of attractions this northerly town has to offer.

On the way back to Kununurra we stopped off at The Grotto, a natural amphitheatre with a great swimming hole at the base of the three sided sheer cliffs. We had a very enjoyable and refreshing swim. A sign at the site claimed the water to be over 100 metres deep.

Tuesday, another big day. We backtracked over the border to the Keep River NP in the NT. A nostalgic day for Joan, having spent some of her childhood at nearby Newry and Auvergne Stations. First stop was Cockatoo Lagoon, once again a little disappointing due to low water levels and lack of birdlife. From here we pushed further into the park before climbing Ginger’s Hill Walk, taking us to a Hawk Catcher - an aboriginal structure used to catch birds of prey. We travelled further into the park, having a picnic lunch on the banks of the Keep River before doing the Jenemoom Walk to a Site once used by the Mirriwoong people as a wet season shelter. This midden provides some spectacular rock formations and some rock paintings. 

Wednesday was a service day in and around the van. Thursday was another special day. This time we headed back towards Wyndham but turned off at the Gibb River Road and visited El Questro Station, a Wilderness Park which is a cattle station that has diversified its pastoral operation to include tourism. It offers a number of 4WD tracks and walking trails leading to natural springs, gorges, billabongs, ridges and swimming holes. All the roads are gravel with corrugated sections and the occasional creek crossing. We had a great day visiting Zebedee Springs, Jackaroo’s Waterhole, the Homestead and Emma Gorge. The springs were enjoyable but very small rockpools and a lot of people. Emma Gorge on the other hand was unbelievable. Sheer rock walls on three sides, with a deep clear water pool. Only a trickle of water coming over the waterfall but water droplets continually falling from the vegetation and seeping from the rock walls enclosing the canyon. It was closest thing I have experienced to a Mexican cenote or sinkhole in Australia. We spent over an hour swimming and admiring this natural swimming hole. The real hidden gem was a small hot spring releasing warm water into one corner of the swimming hole. A magical day all round.

Friday, another quiet day around the van stocking up on supplies and preparing  the car and van for the Bungle Bungles. Saturday we relocated 200klm south to Mabel Downs Station adjacent to the Purnululu NP. It was an easy and pleasant drive. Have to say very impressed with the WA roads, the quality and number of roadside stops with regular 24 hour free camping locations c/w dump points. Also surprised by the number of mobile phone towers providing almost constant phone service along this isolated long stretch of road.

Sunday another spectacular day. Up early and we travelled about 65 klm along yet another rough bone jarring 4WD track to the Purnululu NP (the Bungle Bungles). First stop was the southern end of the park at Piccaninny Creek. The drive in and destination revealed an extraordinary array of banded sandstone domes presenting a dramatic landscape made up of these naturally sculptured formations. The first walk was around  some of these domes which led us to what we thought was Cathedral Gorge. We were a little underwhelmed to say the least but took some photos and continued our trek, to our delight, ending up at the actual Cathedral Gorge.  A magnificent natural amphitheatre surrounded by towering red cliffs and honeycomb rocks. From here we ventured further into these honeycombed domes to The Window, a natural hole in the sandstone structure providing another interesting view of the Bungle Bungle Range. After lunch we ventured to the northern end of the park to Echidna Chasm. What a hidden gem. An ever winding narrowing Chasm about 1 klm long with 200m sheer cliffs on each side. In parts of the Chasm, the walls are only an arm-width apart. Some parts are almost in darkness, whilst other parts provide varying hues. A truely magnificent experience. On exiting the Chasm, late afternoon  the walker is presented with a colourful vista of bright green palm trees and a background of soaring red cliffs. The westward trip home into the setting sun combined with the corrugated road made for some interesting driving. Took almost two hours to complete the last 50 klm. 

Overall a fantastic week. A shame I could not capture the real beauty and splendour of all the special places we visited this week. Hope you enjoy the photos anyway. Take care and stay happy until next time.


Week 5 - WA Leg - Halls Creek & Fitzroy Crossing

2019-05-13 to 2019-05-19

Well, it all started 4 years ago today. On 19th May 2015 Joan and I collected our caravan from the Gold Coast and started our Adventure before Dementia Tour. Since then we have visited all 6 states and 2 territories that make up this great country downunder. Today, exactly 4 years later we find ourselves in Derby WA, on the last leg of our tour, Western Australia.

We started the week at The Bungle Bungles. We have had an enjoyable and educational week spending the first half of the week in Halls Creek and the second half in the community of Fitzroy Crossing. Both had a lot to offer the passing Tourist as long as long dusty roads are not an issue. 

Monday was an easy day relocating from Mabel Downs Station to Halls Creek Caravan Park. Monday afternoon, we followed our normal routine in a new town, visiting the Information Centre and then the local supermarket to top up the larder. 

Tuesday we ventured down Duncan Road. Another corrugated, dusty and rocky road if we had continued along, we would have ended up back at Kununurra (440klm) or Top Springs(580klm) in the NT.  We only travelled about 55 klm along this road, but visited some educational and hidden gems along the way.

First up, on the outskirts of town at the Rodeo  Grounds we stopped at the Helicopter Pilot Memorial dedicated to those pilots that have lost their lives supporting the pastoral industry in the north. There are currently 14 plaques remembering lives lost. Next stop, about 6 klm out of town, was a natural vein of sub-vertical white quartz rising up to 6 metres above the surrounding country side, cutting across the paddocks. This natural formation is locally known  as the Great Wall of China. A further 7 klm down the road we came across Caroline Pool. Not a lot of water but an attractive swimming hole. 2 klm from here we arrived at the original site of Halls Creek, now just ruins and known as Old Halls Creek, the site of the first gold discovery in WA back in 1885. The town was relocated in 1950. From here we drove another 40 klm to a real hidden gem, Palm Springs; a palm fringed, spring fed, permanent freshwater pool on the Black Elvire River. A real oasis in the middle of nowhere. Google the co-ordinates -18°25’04”S, 127°52’01”E and you can appreciate how isolated this location is. We enjoyed a picnic lunch and an incredible swim. It truely is an oasis with Afghan teamsters believed to have planted the original date palms, found here. Nearby we drove into Sawpit Gorge. A very rough 4WD track in and not much water in the swimming hole due to the poor wet season. Would be a great camping and swimming spot in a good season. What was great about Duncan Road was each of the stops mention here had modern eco toilets installed and each of these structures had two walls painted with local aboriginal art. Another feature was each location had a directional painted car bonnet providing directions and reassurance of the destination you have arrived at. 

Wednesday ended up a service day. Clothes washing, some food shopping and some work on the car and van. The dirt roads and off road driving has taken its  toll on the car. Fortunately the only real casualty so far is the reversing camera which shock loose and got dragged over a rocky road. It was destroyed but I did manage to salvage and reattach the rear number plate. Have also become very proficient at deflating and inflating tyres going on-road and off-road. Lots of discussion on various forums around best tyre pressure to adopt on different surfaces, but 30/35psi (off-road) and 38/44psi (on-road) has worked well for me.

Thursday was a travel day, pulling into Mary Pool Rest Area, on the Mary River, for lunch. This is a great overnight camping spot with over 30 vans already parked up when we called in. We arrived in Fitzroy Crossing and settled into the Tarunda Caravan Park. Friday we drove 20klm north of the town to the Geikie Gorge NP. Best access to a NP we have had in ages. Bitumen right to the car park. We were hoping to kayak up the gorge but a mix up with the gate opening times for the boat ramp meant we had to hike in. Nice body of water, but not an overly impressive Gorge. The backstory though is of some interest. This limestone gorge makes up part of the ancient Devonian reef system. The Devonian period was 350-410 million years ago. Also known as the Age of Fishes. The Gorge is 14 klm long with the gorge walls up to 60 metres high. We identified some marine fossils in some of the now high and dry limestone reef outcrops. We did venture in for a swim downstream from the picnic area, at the sandbar but it was not very deep, not very clean water and the local fresh water crocodiles were getting a bit curious about us, so we headed for home

Saturday,  while the rest of Australia was at the polling booths (we completed our voting duties at a pre-polling booth in Kununurra a couple weeks back) saw us heading 70 klm up the Fairfield Leopold Downs Road to the Tunnel Creek NP. The aim here was to self-guide and walk the subterranean trail under the Napier Range. What a great place and a great experience. After scrambling over some large rocks we found the hidden entrance to the cave. Then the adventure begins, in total darkness and with the aid of head lamps we scrambled over many smaller rocks, walked beside pools of water and waded through a number of pools. The cave is about 1 klm long. About half way along the roof has caved in providing some sunlight and a good spot for lunch. Following the remainder of the cave brings you out on the other side of the range into lush green bush and an inviting creek. Information boards on site provide the story of a rebellious Bunuba aboriginal Jandamarra killed here in 1897.

Today (Sunday) we packed up and poked a little further along the Great Northern Highway ending up in Derby late afternoon. We stopped for lunch at the Big Boab Rest Area, and yes it certainly was.

Until next week stay safe and happy.


Week 6 - WA Leg - Derby and Broome

2019-05-20 to 2019-05-26

This has been a week of lows and highs. It did not start out too well but definitely ended on a high. We started the week in Derby and finished it in Broome.

Monday whilst doing the rounds of the local sights of Broome, at the Prison Tree my camera malfunctioned. Not sure if it is repairable but it has been packaged up and sent off for evaluation. In the meantime it’s back to Joan’s old faithful Sony point and shoot.

Wednesday we made the leisurely 200klm drive to Broome, setting up at the Cable Beach Van Park, before heading into town to the Information Centre and doing a shopping at Woolworths. Thursday we started exploring Broome. First stop was a short drive onto Cable Beach before walking out to Gantheaune Point to the light house and great views back along Cable Beach. Like most visitors to Broome the first evening was spent at Cable Beach. We watched the sunset (5:20pm) from the Sunset Bar before heading back into town to have a meal at the Divers Bar in the Roebuck Hotel. Friday, the start of Broome’s Chinatown Discovery Festival we headed back into town to Streeters Jetty to view the sand sculpturing and walk around Chinatown. Unfortunately both were a little disappointing. There was only one sand sculpture under construction. The incredible thing was the colour or the deep red sand. It was really striking. The other disappointment was Chinatown was undergoing major construction with the main streets closed off as well as much of the footpath. The shops were still opened but the area was mainly deserted. We did visit a number of pearl shops and Joan purchased a hat. We also made our way to the lookout at the top of Dampier Street looking out over the blue waters of Roebuck Bay.

Friday evening we caught up with Joan’s niece Ellen and her family, husband Danny, and girls Amber and Caitlin. We got to watch the girls do their swimming time trials before heading back to their place for a lovely meal. It was a late night catching up and planning the next week. Danny also educated us and gave us the rundown on Catbo fishing lures. His brainchild and stress reliever.

Saturday, Ellen had planned a full day. We started at the Court House Markets before moving onto the Pearl Luggers to sample some pearl meat. Interesting but not worth $130/kilogram. From here we attempted a geocache search with the girls at the nearby lookout, but recorded a Did Not Find (DNF). From here we retreated to Matso’s Brewery were we settled into for the afternoon enjoying some really good company, food and local beer, though I was not overly keen on the chilli beer. Love chillies and love beer but not from the same bottle. From here we slipped home had a late afternoon nap before reconvening at Cable Beach for a substantial happy hour and sunset. It was a brilliant sunset and evening. We got to watch tourists riding camels along the beach, eat more good food, watch Danny take some Catbo promotional shots with the help of his daughters, two professional fishing lure models in the making, and a glorious sunset. We stayed well after dark talking and enjoying the cool evening.

Sunday morning we relocated the van to Danny & Ellen’s backyard. Our home for next week or so. Sunday afternoon we returned to Cable Beach about an hour before high tide and spent the entire afternoon in the water, playing with Amber and Caitlin’s paddle board and catching waves. The water was a comfortable temperature and all in all a perfect afternoon.

This week has certainly ended on a high and the good news is we have all of next week to look forward to in Broome. Thanks Ellen, Danny and family.


Week 7 - Broome & Dampier Peninsula

2019-05-27 to 2019-06-02

Last Sunday we had parked the van in Ellen’s (Joan’s niece) backyard. As Monday was a school /work day we were left to our own devices. We had  a quiet morning before heading into Town Beach after lunch before driving out to the Port to have a look around. Had a walk along the Jetty, walked on the adjacent beach and had a look around the coastline below the Fishing Club. From here we returned to Gantheaume Point via the coastal unsealed Kavite Road. The goal here was to locate a geocache near the lighthouse at the Dinosaur Coast Information Board. Our second Did Not Find (DNF) for Broome.

Tuesday was a service day and we potted around the van all day. Wednesday, Caitlin was competing in a cross country race on and around Cable Beach, and we were the cheer squad. Really enjoyed the morning watching the kids give it their all running though soft sand and up and around the sand dunes and surf club. Caitlin ran a respectable 4th in her age group and did her school proud. From here we ran (drove) into town as Joan had a hairdresser appointment and I spent the afternoon at the library researching and working on my current book.

Wednesday, another blue sky perfect day in Broome. We spent most of the day at Cable Beach trying to master the paddle board. Some success but still not competent enough to commit to buying one. Thursday afternoon we had a special treat. We went camel riding with Red Sun Camel Tours. An hour long Cable Beach ride at sunset. It was a great and enjoyable experience and highly recommended for anyone visiting Broome. Definitely not strenuous or onerous, just a great way to enjoy  the scenery and the sunset.

Friday, the young nieces had a day off, so in the morning we went geocaching and finally had some success. Back to back finds, one near Entrance Point and one in the Yawuru Conservation Park not far from the surf club. To celebrate we launched the paddle board again at Cable Beach in front of Zander’s Restaurant. Not a good session. A little windy and a lot of jelly fish so we retreated to Zander’s for lunch. Later that afternoon we returned to town to catch up with Joan’s Belgian backpacker friend, Kat, who I had never met. We had a lovely afternoon catching up on her travels and adventures so far. We were able to swap notes as Kat was heading north and we were heading south, each having already experienced what the other was just about to undertake. Kat is certainly a very accomplished and confident young woman. After saying our goodbyes to Kat we went food shopping then rushed home to pack the car, as Ellen had planned an exciting weekend for us.

Saturday morning we travelled 200klm up the Dampier Peninsula. The first 100klm, a bone crunching unsealed Road. In reality the road was not that bad but certainly had a few rough, narrow and corrugated sections. The first stop, at the end of the dirt was Beagle Bay, the first of a number of aboriginal communities situated on the peninsula. Smoko and a tour of the Sacred Heart Church with its Mother of Pearl altar. The last 100klm was a bitumen road delivering us at Cygnet Bay Pearl Farm, which also has a camping area, restaurant, and infinity pool not to mention their pearling business and gallery outlet, as part of their infrastructure. We set up camp (tents) and had a lovely afternoon with the kids exploring the Divers Creek area, playing cards, a great meal at the restaurant before collecting fire wood and having a great campfire complete with marshmallows and Tim Tams. It was a really enjoyable and magic evening. Shame the same can’t be said for our night’s sleep, as it came up very windy and we were serenaded all night by a couple of close-by rubbing tree trunks doing their best impression of an air raid siren.

Sunday after a hearty bacon, sausage and egg breakfast we headed further north to One Arm Point and the Ardyaloon Hatchery. A remote but picturesque location overlooking Sunday Island and King Sound. The Hatchery was very rudimentary but educational and entertaining for not only the kids but also the adults. From here we backtracked turning onto a very ordinary dirt track leading us to Kooljamen, Cape Leveque. An upmarket camping and resort style accommodation surrounding the Cape Leveque lighthouse perched above the red rocky sandstone coastline. We ventured down on the beach for smoko and a stroll along the cliff face. It was high tide and the colour of the water, the stained red sand and red rocks was spectacular.  We had planned to stop at Lombadina Mission for a late lunch and a swim on the homeward trip but the office was closed and we were unable to obtain a permit to enter the community, so we departed for the dirt road and headed for Broome.

It was a fantastic weekend, unfortunately a little rushed but so glad we got to see and experience this. The plan that evening was to visit the famous open air Sun Picture Theatre in downtown Broome, to watch Top End Wedding, but Ellen and the girls had exhausted us and it was a no show, electing to have an early night instead.


Week 8 - Broome and Port Hedland

2019-06-03 to 2019-06-09

Another interesting and challenging week on the road. A number of things happened this week reinforcing that you have to be flexible and resilient as a roving retiree and you can never really escape from the realities and stresses of life and families. 

The week started in Broome. Monday being a public holiday, Western Australia Day and our last night in Broome. Bonus for us was we got to spend one more day with Ellen, Danny and the girls. We spent the morning at Willie Creek Pearl Farm. Another scenic picturesque coastal location with pristine waters and the site where Australian Sea Cultured Pearls, produced by the Princtada Maxima oyster, are farmed.

Monday evening, our hosts took us Dinosaur footprint hunting. Initially we went to Entrance Point and successfully located some enormous round Sauropod prints. Light was failing on us so we then rushed to the southern end of Cable Beach to locate the three toed Theropod prints, but both memory and light failed us and we abandoned our search not long after sunset. 

Tuesday morning we packed the van up and headed south towards Port Hedland. We weren’t too sure exactly how far or were we would get to that day but that was decided for us. About 200klm south of Broome we had a flat tyre on the van. The tyre was destroyed but no dramas or damage to the van. We put our only spare on and had the decision to drive on (400klm to Port Hedland) or return to Broome. As we were only about 50 klm from the Stanley 24 Roadside Stay we pushed on and overnighted there. As this was the first van flat tyre in 4 years we thought the risk low so decided to drive 130 klm further south to the 80 Mile Beach Caravan Park and if they had phone reception and internet we would park up for a few days and sort out a replacement spare tyre from Port Hedland. 80 Mile Beach delivered, an incredible oasis roughly mid point between Broome and Port Hedland. Getting there involved a 10klm corrugated pindan road from the highway to the Farm Stay but provided large grassed, watered and powered sites adjacent to a beautiful beach. Too cold to swim and not recommended by the locals but very popular with the fishermen and the white sandy beach was absolutely littered with shells. We ended up spending 3 nights at 80 Mile. During this time I obtained quotes for new tyres and we also received an SOS from our eldest daughter Nicol, requesting short term assistance back in Queensland to relocate and get established as a single parent. A number of phone calls and new plan put in place. We relocated from 80 Mile Beach to Port Hedland, Saturday setting up camp behind the Port Hedland Golf Club. It was decided that Joan would return/fly to Queensland Sunday for a period yet to be determined and I would stay with the van and develop some form of holding pattern that slowly progresses down the west coast until my navigator/co-pilot returns. Sunday was a fairly slow day, picking up a suitcase from K-Mart, Joan packing and me ultimately delivering her to the airport early evening for an all night hopscotch across the country from Port Hedland - Perth -Brisbane. Good news is everyone is fine and well and Nicol now has an opportunity to get her life back on track. 

Not sure where I will end up next week, but first task is to get new tyres on the van. Closer inspection suggested it would be prudent to replace all the tyres. Already missing my travelling partner. 

Until next time stay safe and happy.


Week 9 and 10 - Port Hedland and Karijini

2019-06-10 to 2019-06-23

After putting Joan on the plane Sunday 9th June I went to ground not sure what was going to happen next. Not knowing how long she would be needed in Queensland, uncertain if I should remain in Port Hedland and wait for her return and then resume our tour or slowly move on and hope Joan doesn’t miss out on too much.

Initially I threw myself into researching and buying new tyres for the caravan. I then spent a couple of days doing routine maintenance on both the car and caravan. Unfortunately I lost my camping site at the Golf Club as they were hosting their pro-am that week-end and I had to move on. I relocated to the Port Hedland Race Club and decided to divide my time between exploring Port Hedland and the surrounds and finishing my next travel/photo coffee table book. This plan was fine but the Race Club had a 72 hour time limit on camping at their facility and unfortunately I had found and seen most of what there was to be seen around town in those 3 days. It didn’t take long to come to the realisation, that it was time to move on. However, that very same day I received notification that Panasonic had repaired by camera and they agreed to airfreight it to Port Hedland Post Office, for collection. Looks like I would be hanging around Port Hedland a few more days. I relocated to the Discovery Park at Pretty Pool, Port Hedland. I bunkered down and got stuck into my coffee table book. One really good distraction and unexpected bonus of staying at the van park was it was the perfect location to witness and capture a local natural phenomenon know as the ‘Staircase to the moon’. Three evenings on certain months, the full moon rises over the land just after sunset and casts a reflection over the mud flats giving the illusion of a staircase. Ended up staying at the Discovery for five days before my camera turned up. Once I had collected and tested my camera I hooked the van up and headed 325klm inland to the Karijini National Park. Cheap accommodation with plenty on offer to keep me occupied till my navigator returns.

Before moving onto Karijini I should share my highlights of Port Hedland. Port Hedland is an industrial town, and only really exists because of the port, claimed to be the world’s largest and busiest working port. Each year, the millions of tonnes of ore mined and processed from the many inland mines all end up here to be loaded into massive ore carriers and shipped around the world. During the day the flat landscape looks very industrial, can be dusty, hence everything has an orange tinge, and there is a consistent convoy of 2.9klm long ore trains delivering ore to the port stockpiles or returning eastward for their next consignment of valuable dirt. By night the landscape transforms into what could be thought to be a city scape. The trains and port facilities continue to operate but under lights the industrial cringe turns into  a panoramic light show.

Port Hedland, not a pretty place, but surprisingly does have an array of artwork scattered around the town. Many buildings, including the Police Station have large and quite striking murals and street art adorning their walls. There are also bronze animal statues to be found around the town. There are two walking tours around the inner town providing an insight into the town’s pioneering history and then there is the port. I spent two afternoons at The Dome, a coffee shop with internet, just watching the ships coming and going from the port. Like the trains there is a constant throng of tugs escorting and persuading monstrous ore carriers in and out of this narrow channeled port. Another highlight was the Redbank Bridge. A perfect location to watch the 2.9klm long BHP trains from Newman make their arrival or departure to/from Port Hedland. It was also adjacent to the Rio Tinto Dampier Salt mine and stockpile, offering great photo opportunities particularly early morning and sunset. There are also a couple of museums in Port Hedland. I did not get to the Dalgety House Museum but I did enjoy the Don Rhodes Mining Museum. I really enjoyed climbing into and around the diesel locomotives and other mining equipment. Anyway onto Karijini.

Karijini was exactly what I needed and delivered on every front, except no telephone service. Normally this would be a blessing but I did need to stay in touch with Joan and the kids to keep up to date on the home front. There was internet at the Ranger Station but that involved a 24klm round trip each day to SMS/Message back and forth. It worked, but not sustainable as there is no fuel supply at Karijini so after five days I relocated 180klm to Tom Price and used that as a base to explore the area and stay in phone contact with the family. Tom Price proved to be the perfect solution. Phone service, fuel, a Coles and plenty to do and see.

I entered Karijini NP via the eastern Park Entrance and camped at Bangarra Loop at Dales Gorge camping area. The camp grounds was in easy walking distance to the Gorge and the associated attractions; Fern Pool, Fortescue Falls, the Gorge Walk, the Rim Walk, Circular Pool and a number of lookouts. I visited all the aforementioned, over the four days, enjoying some good walks, some short swims and lots of climbing up and down rock walls. There is a lot more to Karijini but I had to wait to explore them from my Tom Price base.

Still not sure when my navigator will be returning. Hope it is shortly but current discussions have it 2-3 weeks away. Guess I will just continue in the current holding pattern.


Week 11 - Tom Price and Karijini West

2019-06-24 to 2019-06-30

It was a nice drive from Karijini into Tom Price, 740 metres above sea level, the highest town in WA, nestled in the Hamersley Ranges. A good bitumen road, a number of mountains and a picturesque range, a couple of mine sites along the way as well as a few ore trains making their way to the coast. I set up camp at the caravan park at the base of Mount Nameless. I had spent all day Monday completing the final draft of my latest coffee table book. I had purchased a discount printing voucher with an expiry date of 12 midnight 25th June. The driver for getting to Tom Price on this day was I needed internet access to submit my book. So, once set up at Tom Price I set about doing final proof reading, making last minute changes and enhancements and successfully uploaded my latest masterpiece at 9:50pm, ten minutes before the 12 midnight Sydney time deadline.

Wednesday, I found my way around Tom Price, did some grocery shopping and some washing. Late afternoon I did venture out to conquer Mt Nameless. It turned out quite an adventure. 4WD access only to the top, which turned out to be the highest vehicle destination in all WA (1128 metres above sea level). It was also the most testing 4WD track I have ever attempted. I’m not experienced and I was definitely out of my comfort zone, but got there and back without any damage or issues. It was worth the effort to enjoy the views and see the enormity of the Tom Price Iron Ore Mine and its infrastructure.

Thursday turned out a service and strategy day. Did some routine maintenance and cleaning around the van and started looking at options for the following week. I decided after exploring this area the next logical stop would be Millstream National Park en route to Karratha or Dampier, so after lunch it was off to the Visitors Centre to complete my research. Glad I did because there were a number of flaws in my plan. I had reached Tom Price by the only bitumen road (Great Northern Highway, 325 klm from Port Hedland) servicing the town. All the other roads to the coast involves 150 kilometres plus of ever changing corrugated dirt roads. The only bitumen road (Great Northern Highway) went onto Paraburdoo and then down through inland WA to Perth. The other kicker was most of the public roads were not suitable for caravans, though it was possible to get a permit from Rio Tinto to utilise their 155klm unsealed Rail Access Road, to Millstream, claimed to be the most suitable of all the choices, other than back tracking via the Great Northern Highway to Karratha (573klm). I sat my Rio induction and obtained a road permit and left my decision as to which  escape route I would use after traveling some of them over the next few days, in the car, as I explore and enjoy Karijini West.

Friday exited town via the Rail Access Road (28 klm) before turning off for Hamersley Gorge and travelled another 30klm on a corrugated dirt road. Hamersley Gorge was a picturesque gorge with spectacular orange walls and refreshing inviting rock pools and sparkling water filled gorges. Plenty of rock climbing and quick swims filled in the day. I travelled the 60 kilometres home via the Nanutara - Munjina dirt road. All up 120klm of dirt roads today. They were acceptable and provided some incredible landscapes and train sightings but there were sufficiently patchy areas and rough sections that I decided I would not be comfortable inflicting them on the caravan. Guess we backtrack via the safety and more certain bitumen strip.

Saturday was a lazy day, mini service day and shopping day for the trek back to the coast.

Sunday was the highlight of the week, a big and exciting action filled day. Had a full day planned with a minimum of 3 walks with lots of sights and adrenaline involved. I backtracked to Karijini, this time entering the park from the western entry. Leaving early, first stop was a quirky rest stop named the RIP Lookout. It is a barren gravel day rest area on an elevated ridge overlooking the Pilbara. It looks like when it was constructed large boulders were placed on the edge to prevent people from driving off. Over the years hundreds of smaller rocks have been placed on and around these boulders, painted with ‘In memorial of....’ along with some larger and more elaborate shrines to those persons that are no longer of this world. It is a strange, unexplained but yet spiritual place overlooking some incredible landscape.

From here it was onto Joffre Gorge and Joffre Falls. Unfortunately the Falls were not running but the lookout provided a stunning view of the natural amphitheatre formed by the curved waterfall face. There was some water further downstream in the narrower smooth black rock gorge. It would be impressive to witness after rain. I normally do not attempt Grade 5 walks however although steep, the step like rocks making up the cliff face looked doable, so off I went. So glad I did, exploring the gorge floor and standing at the base of the waterfall and looking up at the lookout platform put it all in perspective and provided some great photo opportunities. Surviving this excursion I moved onto Knox Gorge Lookout which provided panoramic views of this deep chasm. It was getting close to lunch time so I decided to go check out the Eco Lodge. Nice but too expensive to forgo the cheese and promite sandwiches I had prepared for lunch.

Next stop was Weano Gorge. After lunch I got my bearings by visiting Oxer Lookout and Junction Pool Lookouts. Both being perched 100m above the Gorge floor and water where four gorges meet - Weano, Red, Hancock and Joffre Gorges. From this vantage point I could hear and see people exploring and enjoying the geographical marvels held at the base of these sheer cliffs. Having just read the difficulties and risks in exploring this area; vertical drops, slippery wet rocks, narrow, high ledges, hypothermia from wading through ice cold pools and steep uneven ground I was unsure if I should proceed. I decided to at least try and turn back it proved too difficult. It was difficult and challenging but I did it all. Climbed down the rock faces, waded through waist deep cold pools, manoeuvred along and over narrow, high ledges, survived wet, slippery smooth rocks and crab walked/climbed the spider walk and made it to both Kermit’s Pool (Hancock Gorge) and Handrail Pool (Weano Gorge). It was definitely worth it. A great feeling of adrenaline fueled accomplishment and some great photos. Ended up a full day, completing three Grade 5 walks in one day, getting back to Tom Price just on dusk. Tomorrow, I start the trek back to the coast to either Roebourne or Karratha. Not sure were I will end up, as talking with some other travellers today I came to the realisation that school holidays have started, so Millstream NP probably not an option for the next few weeks. Not to worry the weather is fine and plenty of rest areas situated along the WA coast. I’m confident I will find somewhere to park up till my navigator/co-pilot returns.


Week 12 & 13 - Karratha and Cleaverville.

2019-07-01 to 2019-07-14

Leaving Tom Price, with Millstream NP now on hold, I was in no hurry to reach the coast so I took my time with a number of stops that Monday, to take in and enjoy the Pilbara. In fact only traveled 126 kilometres that day, pulling up late afternoon at the Albert Tognilini Rest Area, off the Great Northern Highway, not far from Juna Downs. Bitumen access to the top of a hill providing a large flat camping area overlooking a gorge and some beautiful country. There were about 20 other campers sharing this view with me, on that evening.

A slow, late start next day, first stop and check in with the family being Auski Tourist Village, a Garage, Shop and Caravan Park at the junction of the Great Northern Highway and Munjina Road. Continuing the slow pace I pulled up just after lunch 138 kilometres down the road at another Rest Area not far from the Yule River. This camp was about 2 kilometres off the road behind a sand dune. Very flat, very isolated and very quiet. By the end of the day there were only 2 others campers sharing this location.

Wednesday the plan was to get onto the NW Coastal Road (Hwy 1), head south and pull up at the Whim Creek Hotel. I arrived there right on lunch time to find the adjacent mine still operating but the hotel closed. I parked in the carpark, made  and enjoyed some lunch and decided to push onto Roebourne. Another surprise, the Roebourne Caravan Park had also closed down. With no easily accessible free camps in the area I made a late dash to Karratha, setting up camp in the AAOK van park in the industrial area of Karratha.

Thursday after visiting the Information Centre I did a drive around Karratha. In many ways just a larger version of Middlemount - a large isolated mining town. After lunch I visited Dampier, the home of Red Dog. Was quite taken by Dampier and spent about 2 hours checking this place out. Called into the Burrup Peninsula, on the way home and was blown away by the size and complexity of the North West Shelf Gas (NWSG) Project. It bewilders me that we humans can not only conceive such ideas but actually design, construct and operate such endeavours. 

Friday I decided to go check out Cleaverville camp grounds, a beachside area midpoint between Karratha and Roebourne. I bypassed it on Wednesday because the access is a 12 kilometres gravel road and the reviews advised potentially rough conditions. To my delight Friday, I find the road not only being graded but top dressed and rolled. The camping area was even better news. About 5 kilometres of absolute beachfront to choose from. No potable water or power but a drop box and dump point. The other bonus being phone service, internet and TV reception. Guess I had found home for the next couple of weeks.

I relocated here on the Saturday morning and set up my base for the next little while. So the last week has been pretty laid back and relaxing. Spent most days around the annex, on the beach reading and working on my next book. I did have a few short day trips taking in Point Sampson, the historic town and port of Cossack, the mining town of Wickham and Roebourne. I also backtracked to Karratha for some shopping and another visit to the NWSG project spending a couple of hours in their visitors centre getting a better understanding of what all this infrastructure and technology actually does. Makes coal mining look unsophisticated, even rudimentary.

Wednesday night was a great outcome. NSW won the State of Origin series for 2019, though the victory was a little  hollow, because I was surrounded by West Australians, South Australians and Victorians and SoO means nothing to them. Go the cockroaches.

Ah well. Life is still good. Hope this finds you all happy and well. Take care, be good to one another and live life to the fullest.


Week 14 & 15 - Karratha

2019-07-15 to 2019-07-28

Have had a quiet couple of weeks. Still marking time waiting for Joan to return from Queensland. Good news is she will be back Tuesday 30th July. I ended up spending another week at Cleaverville. Spent my time there working on various projects. I put some time aside each day to experiment with my new camera, trying to fathom the various menus and features it offers. Had some gains but still work in progress. Had a full moon on the nights of the 16th and 17th and although I took a lot of photos I was not overly thrilled with the results. Not sure if it was me or the camera at fault. Probably me, but I also expect my expectations may have definitely exceeded the capabilities of my smart but entry level camera. I also spent the time, yet again, rearranging, classifying and culling my ever growing digital photo library. 

Most days, I also made some progress on the next coffee table book I am working on. This year I have completed two books and aiming for a third before year end. The first book was a summary of the 80 Short Walks Joan and I completed in Tasmania during 2017 and 2018. The second one was a snap shot of the time we spent in Canada 2011 - 2014. The current book project will be the highlights of Our West Australian Adventure.

After 2 weeks off the grid, I was running low on water, the batteries needed a good healthy charge and the dirty clothes basket was overflowing and clean clothes were at a premium, so it was time to retreat to a powered van site. So on Saturday morning I relocated back to Karratha, put 5 loads of washing through the washing machine, refilled the water tanks, the refrigerator and the esky. The batteries had a spell and gladly soaked up the grid supplied amps.

Monday morning the plan was to escape to Millstream National Park for 4 or 5 days before returning to Karratha, giving me a few days to clean and restock the van before Joan arrived back. I overnighted at Miaree Pool 24 hour Rest Stop, Monday night heading off, up the Tom Price Road, Tuesday morning. The road runs parallel to the Hamersley Iron railway line, slowly climbing towards the Hamersley Range. It was an enjoyable drive, incredible landscape and I encountered 4 fully ladened ore trains heading for the coast during the first 50 kilometres of the the drive. At one rail crossing I counted 236 wagons behind three locomotives. Later research advised these Hamersley Iron trains are 2.4 kilometres long, do consist of 236 wagons, each carrying 106 tonnes of ore. This equates to 25,016 tonnes of ore per train. Unfortunately the bitumen ran out after 90 kilometres and although I had made it to Millstream Chichester NP I still had 42 kilometres of gravel road to navigate before arriving at the camp ground. Prior enquires had advised the road to be ok with caution, but a couple of kilometres in I decided it was not suitable for the van and too risky (read too expensive to risk going further) so I did a u-turn and drove the 100 kilometres back to Karratha. 

So another week on my hands before Joan returns. Glad to report I spent this time well, giving the van a complete service, washed and polished the exterior and gave the interior a good spring clean as well. Also spent some more time on my book. Also realised we (or at least I) have been on the road 100 days this trip. That milestone fell 22nd July so I spent some time this week updating and compiling metrics for the WA portion of this tour so far. The metrics captured and calculated are as follows:

Dates:                                14 April - 22 July 2019       (100 nights)
Kilometres travelled    -     Car          10,413 kilometres    
                                          Caravan    7,012 kilometres      
Fuel consumed                                   1,638.2 litres    
Average fuel consumed                      15.73 litres/100km     
Best fuel consumption                        10.04 litres/100km    
Worst fuel consumption                      18.96 litres/100km    
Fuel spend to date                              $2,627.70     
Average fuel price                               160.40cpl    
Most Expensive fuel                            198.90cpl          (Barkly Homestead)
Accommodation Metrics            
   -   Nights in a Caravan Park             49 nights    
   -   Nights in Low/Free Cost               35 nights    
   -   Nights with Family/Friends           16 nights  

Until next time, stay safe and happy.        


Week 16 & 17 - Gnoorea, Peedamulla & Onslow

2019-07-29 to 2019-08-11

The relaunch of our WA Tour was not as smooth as we would have liked. Joan arrived back in Karratha 5:00pm Tuesday 30 July as planned. Wednesday I had a quiet day, showing Joan the highlights of Karratha and Dampier, including the mandatory photo with Red Dog. By day’s end we had decided to extent our stay in Karratha another 3 days primarily as we had found out Onslow and Exmouth caravan parks were booked out with sites not becoming available till 10th August. This didn’t bother us and we decided to stay in Karratha and take the time to return to Millstream NP and check out Python Pool. First set back, large foodie festival and carnival in Karratha that weekend meant there were no caravan sites available in town so we had to move on. 

We decided to move down the coast to 40 Mile Beach at Gnoorea Point. So Thursday morning, another beautiful sunny blue sky morning, we packed up camp and relocated. We arrived at our destination just on lunch time. It was high tide and we set up camp on a slight rise about 100 metres from the high tide mark. Late afternoon, outgoing tide, we wandered down for a walk along the beach. We were surprised to find no sand. It was a rocky coastline, so not as easy or pleasant for our planned leisurely stroll. This discovery also reduced our desirability for swimming over the coming days. Back at the campsite we took solace in a cold beer and the beautiful sunset over South West Regnard Island just off the coastline. 

Friday we woke to very strong wind and it continued for 2 days only giving us a reprieve each evening just before dusk. It was constant, making it very uncomfortable to be outside as the grit sandblasted our legs and faces. We had no option but to bunker down inside the van. Everything in the annex was covered in red sand. The red grit found its way into the van covering the bench tops, table, floor, in fact there was a film of orange red dust over everything. Outside, the van being on raised ground and totally exposed to the prevailing wind, the wind eroded the sand around the tyres and stabilisers causing the van to start sinking unevenly into the ground. We decided we had to escape this place so Sunday morning we hitched up and headed south, finding ourselves about an hour out of Onslow, ‘Camping with Custodians’ at Peedamulla Station Campsite.

What a find. A secluded campground with both powered and non powered sites. A modern camp kitchen, amenities and a fire pit. Town van parks were overflowing and we had only one other van on site with a million acres of nothing surrounding us. A perfect place to do nothing and just enjoy the serenity. We parked up here till Friday before moving onto a van site at the Ocean View Caravan Park in Onslow. We did enjoy out short sabbatical but didn’t vegetate for the whole week. We did spend some time washing all the dusty clothes and bed linen, along with dusting and cleaning the entire interior of the van. The outside is still covered in an orange layer of dust.

We relocated to Onslow Friday. A small coastal village surrounded by the Onslow salt mines and the location of the Wheatstone LNG Project (Chevron). First impressions, a cosy friendly fishing village overrun by southern visitors escaping the cold south. Lots of fishing boats in the van park. We enjoyed a pleasant fish and chips lunch at the Beadon Bay Hotel and then had a quick look around town. Saturday we ventured out along Backbeach Road and Seaview Drive to Four Mile Creek. The beach on this side of Onslow is called Sunset Beach and the beach on the other  side of the point is Sunrise Beach. Onslow being positioned such that both sunrise and sunset is over water. Seaview Drive provided good views of the Indian Ocean, Onslow Salt Pans, mine and product stockpile, overland conveyor system and port facilities. We watched the sunset and enjoyed happy hour at a beachside pullout overlooking the ocean towards Mackerel Islands.

Sunday we ventured out to Old Onslow, abandoned in 1922 due to the Ashburton River silting up and the decision to relocate the town to its present location on Beadon Bay. Not much of the old town left, just the ruins of the jail and police station and  a small cemetery, currently being restored. We spent some time exploring and admiring the Ashburton River. A great low cost camping area, at an area described Three Mile, though does entail about 20 kilometres of gravel road to get there. We also diverted out to Minderoo Station for another view of the Ashburton River and Minderoo Bridge. On the homeward journey we stopped at a Spinifex Termite site for a closer inspection of the Pilbara’s version of termite mounds.

Not sure what the next week holds for us but in the meantime stay safe and happy.


Week 18 & 19. Onslow, Exmouth & Carnarvon.

2019-08-12 to 2019-08-25

Up early Monday morning, 12th August. Joan went on her morning run and I went to the Onslow Anzac Park, adjacent to the van park, to capture the sunrise through their Rising Sun, ‘Lest we Forget’ Anzac monument. It all went to plan and even captured a seagull illuminated in the morning sun light. After a quiet day we visited Sunset Beach late afternoon, for happy hour and another opportunity to capture a brilliant sunset and the picturesque Onslow Salt Works. 

Tuesday and Wednesday were quiet days pottering around the van and restocking the larder for the following week. Wednesday night we treated ourselves to a night out at the the Onslow Sport Club, each enjoying a Japanese Bento Box. Not truely authentic Japanese but still enjoyable and satisfying even with the Australian influence.

Thursday another brilliant morning. We packed up and departed by the mandatory 10:00am stipulation. Heading south from Onslow we stopped at Bobby’s Tree. An almost solitary tree that was nurtured by the local council’s grader operator for a number of years. When upgrading, realigning and sealing the road the tree was spared by the council in recognition and respect for the tree’s history and Bobby McAullay’s dedication to its nurturing and survival. We stopped at Nanutarra for fuel and lunch before turning off the highway to our next waypoint, Emu Creek Station Stay. We chose this location as it claimed to have good camping sites along the river’s edge with a year round fresh water lagoon. Turned out to be a perfect idyllic spot; flushing toilets, showers though only cold water, and we had the entire place to ourselves. Only let down was that the river was not the glorious water hole we imagined but due to this extended dry just a series of little mud pools. We checked out the Nyang Wool Shed located on the property, had a restful nights sleep and decided to move onto Exmouth next morning.

Back in service Friday morning we soon found out there were no vacant sites in Exmouth but secured a couple of nights at Bullara Station Stay, about 130 kilometres shy of Exmouth. This worked out ok as we had four nights booked at Cape Range National Park from Sunday through to Thursday. Bullara was a good waypoint and very popular. Friday night was hamburger night and we lined up with 180 other campers and enjoyed a $10 hamburger. Saturday was windy but we made the effort, to do three short walks around the station Homestead; the tin can walk, the windmill walk and the bottle walk. Nothing spectacular but some exercise through the red sand dunes that make up this working cattle property.

Sunday we were in Exmouth by lunch time, did a quick run around IGA to top up the fridge, lunched at the local bakery and then made our way down the southern coast of the peninsula known as the Ningaloo coast to Tulki Beach campsite in the Cape Range NP. The campsite is restricted to eleven sites located about 100 metres from the high tide mark overlooking the turquoise waters of the Indian Ocean with the waves crashing over the Ningaloo reef about another 200 metres off the shore. Certainly is a beautiful spot and popular not only for its views, swimming and snorkelling but also home to the whale shark, dugongs, manta rays and turtles, at different times of the year. We are probably a little late for the whale sharks but may be lucky enough to encounter manta rays, turtles and dugongs. Sunday afternoon we had a swim, happy houred with our fellow campers and then retired to the van for a sleepless night. The wind came up about midnight and it was wild, windy and noisy. We survived without any damage but certainly was not a pleasant experience.

Monday the wind dissipated and we drove 35 kilometres to Yardie Gorge where we completed the Nature Walk and the Yardie Gorge Trail providing views over the Gorge and Ningaloo Reef. After some lunch we launched the kayak and spent the afternoon paddling the gorge, identifying local birds and other fauna. Thankfully no wind Monday night and we both enjoyed a good night’s sleep.

Tuesday we got to appreciate the real attraction of the Ningaloo Coast. Swimming and snorkelling in the clear turquoise waters. Tuesday morning we snorkelled at Oyster Stack. Not a particularly colourful reef but some colour and compensated by an abundance of colourful tropical fish. After lunch we ventured to Turquoise Bay for more of the same. If any thing a little more colour and larger fish. Not as spectacular as the Great Barrier Reef, but the bonus being a fringe reef, it is simply a matter of parking the car walking down the beach, entering the water and as soon as you submerge your head you are in a new and different underwater world. Overall a very enjoyable and rewarding day.

Wednesday morning the constant and gusting southerly wind had returned and stayed with us all day. Mid morning we headed for Mandu Mandu Gorge and hiked the trail along the rocky creek bed through the canyon for about 1.5 kilometres before climbing the wall and returning to the car via the gorge rim taking in the majestic view of the Ningaloo reef and the surrounding country. As it was approaching lunchtime we took a run back towards Exmouth to the Vlamingh Lighthouse to view the North West Cape. We enjoyed lunch watching the passing parade of humpback whales returning south to the Antarctica with their calves after their annual migration north to the tropical breeding and calving waters off the Pilbara and Kimberley regions.

Thursday morning we packed up, headed into Exmouth and did the rounds, filled up with potable water, filled up with diesel, emptied the grey water and toilet cassette, located the fish Co-op and purchased local fresh prawns for lunch and then headed south making it as far as Minilya Rest Area for our overnight stay enroute to Carnarvon. Two noteworthy stops today were Learmonth Air Force Base and crossing over the Tropic of Capricorn, just outside Minilya. We had one more stop but unfortunately a little underwhelming. Coral Cove looked like a great swimming/snorkelling location but was not a very inviting waypoint with an overcrowded caravan park and unappealing infrastructure and surrounds. 

Friday we arrived in Carnarvon just on lunch time. Our home for the next week, at the Outback Oasis CP. Friday afternoon was shopping and the Information Centre. Saturday was The Gascoyne Growers Market for farm fresh produce and more local prawns from the Pickles Point Boat Harbour. Carnarvon is a fruit and vegetables growing area. Sunday was a little windy but we ventured out to the historic precinct on Babbage Island, visiting Pelican Point, the One Mile Jetty and Dwyers Leap. We also came across the ‘Don’t Look at the Islands’, memorial sculpture, symbolising the forced medical incarceration, of indigenous Australians to Doris and Bernier Islands, between 1908 and 1919.

When it was time to head home a fire on the causeway (Shark Skin Crossing) imprisioned us on the island till the police and Fire Brigade reopened the road. To fill in the time, we walked across the island to the footbridge at The Fascine. This bridge being the old tramway out to the Jetty.


Week 20 - Carnarvon

2019-08-26 to 2019-09-01

Carnarvon turned out to be a great and surprising waypoint with many and varied things to do and see.

On Monday we visited the Carnarvon Space and Technology Museum. Didn’t quite know what to expect and to be honest we are a little jaded these days when it come to museums. Wow, it was fantastic. We spent all afternoon enjoying their displays, videos, interactive displays and simulators. In fact we didn’t leave till after closing time. The front gate was locked and we had to exit via the staff entrance. I didn’t even realised Carnarvon played a part in the manned space program. The museum focuses on two parts; the Carnarvon Tracking Station and the Overseas Telecommunications Commission (OTC) Satellite Earth Station. The museum is filled with static displays of old equipment, documents and photos. It also runs a number of video’s and documentaries on the space race, the moon, the sun and other planets. We watched about ninety minutes of documentaries but the best fun was the interactive exhibits and simulators. We got to experience the Apollo 11 launch, actually laying on our backs in a lunar module simulator. I got to fly or more accurately crash the Space Shuttle. Joan and I both got a souvenir photo of us at the Apollo 11, moon landing site, Tranquility Base, where, in July 1969, humans landed and walked on another celestial body for the first time. Out in the grounds of the museum there is a 30 metre Satellite Dish, a Casshorn antenna distinguished by its characteristic ‘sugar scoop’ form. There is also a replica Mercury Redstone Rocket. If travelling to Carnarvon allow at least four hours to take in this little gem.

Tuesday, something entirely different. Back to the beach. Point Quobba to be precise. About 75 kilometres north of Carnarvon, there is a strip of extremely rocky cliff faced, rough coastline. Near Point Quobba the powerful ocean swells force water through sea caves and due to holes in the rocks sending jets of water into the air, sometimes as high as 20 metres. It is a spectacular sight made all the more special on our visit as passing whales were also spouting water into the air just off shore. We were lucky enough to see a couple of whales breach, just 200 - 250 metres off the coast line. More surprising only about 1 kilometre south of the blowholes is a calm coral filled lagoon with an abundance of fish and shells. The locals refer to this area as an underwater aquarium. We did go snorkelling but only a short swim as it was approaching low tide, making it difficult to explore much of the coral. We also visited the lighthouse and HMAS Sydney II Memorial Cairn. The Sydney was involved in a mutually destructive engagement with the German auxiliary cruiser Kormoranon 19 November, 1941,  off the coast from here and was lost with all hands (645) on board.

Wednesday, swimming again but this time inland. We ventured 50 kilometres up the Carnarvon Mullwea Road to Rocky Pool, on the Gascoyne River. The Gascoyne River is a large river but unfortunately at this time of year runs underground meaning most of it is just a wide dry sand bed. However at Rocky Pool it is above ground, providing a large freshwater billabong, about 400 metres long by 80 metres wide of fresh clear deep fresh water. Unfortunately for us it is gazetted a no camping area. Nevertheless a great picnic and day use spot. We took the opportunity to have a swim and enjoy the tranquility and birdlife that call this place home.

Thursday the forecast was rain. We woke to a cloudy morning so we decided to spend the day in and around the van. Joan took the opportunity to visit a hairdresser. As it didn’t rain and was a pleasant day, in Joan’s absence, I washed both the car and van, once again attempting to remove all evidence of red dust. Mission not quite accomplished.

Friday we were scheduled to move on but we decided to stay an extra day, do some shopping and spring clean both the van and back of car as both areas were getting a little unruly and out of hand. Glad to say we did spring clean. We also drove the Fruit Loop Drive Trail to do our fruit, vegetable and fish shopping. The other surprising thing about Carnarvon is although it appears to be located in a parched desolate landscape it is a lush horticultural region abundant with tropical fruits, a vast array of temperate climate fruit and vegetables topped off with succulent seafood and a flourishing fishing industry. We had a great morning driving from farm gate to farm gate picking up an array of fresh vegetables, beautiful bananas, fresh eggs and other local produce. Last stop was Pickles Point Seafood for another feed of freshly caught local prawns.

Saturday morning we broke camp and headed south, stopping for lunch at a lookout over Gladstone Bay. The Bay was a large dry clay pan but apparently in the wet, around October each year it fills with water and is a real spectacle. This vantage point also highlighted the vastness of the country we were driving through. From here we carried on to Hamelin Pool, our waypoint for the night, the site of an old Telegraph Station built in 1884. It is also home to the most diverse and abundant examples of stromatolites in the world. Also referred to as ‘living fossils’, stromatolites are living representatives of life over 3500 million years ago when there was no other complex life on Earth. The stromatolites, microbialites and microbial mats can be viewed from a specially constructed wooden boardwalk. Have to say I was totally blown away by the stromatolites. I must have missed that science lesson at school. They look just like rocks but our whole existence is a result of their contribution. Over the last two billion years cyanobacteria in microbial mass influenced evolution by breathing oxygen into the atmosphere displacing poisonous gases. In short more complex life forms would not have evolved if not for the oxygen enriched atmosphere. Thanks stromatolites. Nearby there is also a shell stone quarry of Coquina, a soft limestone rock created by compacted fragum cockles shells. 

After a restful night at Hamelin Pool we woke to a glorious morning. Being Fathers Day I had an early morning phone calls from both girls. Mid morning we moved onto Denham, stopping off at Shell Beach along the way. A pure white beach with countless small fragum cockle shells along the high water line, and shell grit overlaying coquina above the high tide mark. We arrived at Denham just on lunch time and checked into the Shark Bay Caravan Park. Denham looks like it may be another fun and exciting waypoint. Until next week take care and stay happy.


Week 21 - Denham - Nanga Bay - Kalbarri

2019-09-03 to 2019-09-08

Since arriving in the Shark Bay Area, we have been hearing  a particular, to the point of annoying, bird that makes a continuous descending series of chimes. We heard it’s melodious ‘did you get drunk?’ chime everywhere we went but had been unable to identify it until visiting the Francois Peron NP where an information board advised it was a Chiming Wedgebill. If interested, listen to its chime at the attached link: https://www.graemechapman.com.au/library/sounds.php?c=551&p=19

Monday we ventured out to Monkey Mia, made famous over the years for a location to swim and interact with dolphins. It is still a lovely location but now highly regulated and commercialised. We had missed the morning feeding sessions but there were still a number of dolphins trawling the beach and playing with buoy ropes to keep the spectators amused. After a pleasant walk along the beach we lunched at the Boughshed Restaurant overlooking the water and the passing parade of dolphins. On the return trip back to Denham we stopped off at Little Lagoon for a quick dip. Beautiful clear water but very shallow.

Tuesday was a fun day. A short trip out to Francois Peron National Park. First stop was the Peron Historic Precinct ; the old Homestead, shearing Shed and shearer’s quarters. The other drawcard was the hot tub artesian water tank. Unfortunately it was being cleaned when we arrived so we moved onto the 4WD component for the day, being a ten kilometres sandy track to Big Lagoon. Parks and Wildlife recommend reducing tyre pressures to 18 - 20 psi and have provided a very impressive and functional air filling station for inflating tyres after completing the round trip. Big Lagoon was very picturesque, the water being many shades of blue, the beaches being pure white sand, the sand dunes a rich ochre colour and the blue sky. Getting back to the Homestead mid afternoon we found a very clean and warm (40°C) artesian tank, which we were fortunate to have to ourselves for about 30 minutes, which was just about the right amount of time, before feeling broiled and the next visitors arrived.

Wednesday morning was a service morning around the van, before heading up town to the Visitors Information Centre to watch a 15 minute 3D movie on the sinking of the HMAS Sydney II. Having visited the memorial cairn whilst in Carnarvon we were interested in how it was that the entire crew of the Sydney were lost and the majority of the Kormoran crew and survived. In short the Germans outsmarted the Australians. You’ll have to watch the movie or perhaps google it to get the detailed answer. After lunch we drove out to Eagle Bluff to walk along the boardwalk and hopefully spot some manta rays or sharks. We did see some marine life but elected to call into the Ocean Park Aquarium, on the way back to Denham to get a more detailed and up close experience with the local marine life. 

Thursday we relocated to Nanga Bay Resort on Henri Freycinet Harbour and the Western Gulf of Shark Bay. The Resort is way past it’s hay day and very run down and in desperate need of maintenance and an injection of funds. Bonus being only three caravans here, it is really quite, clean amenities, picturesque surrounds and a hot artesian spa. Guess what, yes it was emptied and being cleaned when we arrived, but we were in the hot, actually warm water by 5:00pm. It was worth the wait. After tea we went back for another session. Overall a good waypoint just a shame this wonderful location is not being better utilised and supported. 

Friday morning after an early morning dip in the artesian spa, we broke camp and made our way back to the North West Coast Highway, turning right at the Overlander Roadhouse, Hamelin Pool, heading south towards Geraldton. We stopped for lunch at the Billabong Roadhouse, Meadows. We pulled up at Galena Bridge, Murchison River at a 24 hour Rest stop.

Saturday we moved onto Kalbarri checking into the Anchorage CP for a week. Sunday morning we drove 50 kilometres south to Port Gregory to check out Hutt Lake known as the Pink Lake. It certainly was pink and unusual. After lunch we visited the Convict ruins at Lynton Convict Depot before circling back to Kalbarri via the Principality of Hutt River about 75 square kilometres of an Independent Sovereign State that seceded from Australia 21 April 1970 when Leonard Casley declared his farm to be an independent country and seceded from Australia over a dispute concerning wheat production quotas. In February 2017, at the age of 91 and after ruling for 45 years, Casley abdicated the throne in favor of his youngest son, Prince Graeme. Casley died on 13 February 2019. We spent about 40 minutes with Prince Leonard’s youngest daughter, Princess Sheryl, who gave us the history and an insight into her father whilst providing a tour around the buildings making up the principality. 

On the way home we also called into Kalbarri Coastal Cliffs to view the rugged coastline south of Kalbarri. Some of the geographical features we viewed were the Natural Bridge, Island Rock, Castle Rock and Shellhouse Grandstand. Based on the first day this is going to be a great week coming up with plenty to do and see around Kalbarri and the National Park.


Week 22 - Kalbarri - Lynton

2019-09-09 to 2019-09-14

Well I think we have a new best waypoint for Western Australia. We think Kalbarri has it all; the ocean, beaches, the Murchison River, a massive river, great for kayaking. The town is surrounded by a National Park with great amenities, excellent walks, views and impressive infrastructure. National Parks is currently constructing a world class skywalk over one of the canyons, due to open in 2020. On top of that, the town and surrounding coastline has an array of walking and cycle tracks, leading to a number of bluffs, geographical features and swimming beaches, and at this time of year migrating whales can be spotted, close to shore, from the many vantage points. The town also has a great bread shop, a good IGA and a selection of seafood outlets. In short we really connected with Kalbarri.

We spent a lot of our time at the National Park and I apologise upfront for the number of photos but it just blew me away, particularly Nature’s Window, a natural hole in a rock formation (Tumblagooda Sandstone) that frames the Murchison River perfectly inside it, when viewed from the right angle. We visited Nature’s Window on Monday. It was very busy that day (probably is most days) and we had to patiently wait our turn to get our happy snaps. This location is also the starting point for a 9 kilometre loop walk along the the canyon rim descending just before the midpoint to the river floor to complete the 360° walk back to Nature’s Window. Monday due to our late start we decided it was too hot to be scrambling over rocks to do the walk and whilst waiting in line to view and photograph Nature’s Window I deduced that the view through the window was east - west, so we decided to abandon the park that day and come back early next morning to capture a sun rise money shot and then complete the walk in the cooler morning hours.

Up at 5:00am Tuesday morning we were on site in plenty of time to catch the 6:28am sunrise. Only problem was the the canyon was blanketed in a heavy fog. No money shot photo. The fog had lifted a little by 7:00am so we set off on the walk. It was a great but challenging in part, 3-hour walk providing some great canyon views, a number of birds and and an array of wild flowers along the way. After lunch we also visited the Z-Bend, a distinctive zig-zag gorge section of the Murchison River.

Wednesday, another foggy morning but rather than revisit the National Park I dropped Joan about 6 kilometres out of town at Red Bluff Beach and she ran back to the van along the coastal walking track. Whilst on her run I returned to the van collected the bike and rode a number of similar coastal tracks to various bluffs, headlands and beaches. An enjoyable ride but not many good photos due to the foggy conditions. After breakfast we returned to the foreshore to watch the daily pelican feeding. We couldn’t believe the number of spectators and how popular this daily activity is. From here we ventured out to Rainbow Jungle, a local parrot sanctuary, housing and displaying hundreds of parrots, both local and international. Really enjoyed this experience and took a lot of photos.

Thursday morning, up early again, clear starry skies so another early drive to the National Park arriving well before the 6:25am sunrise. I had the whole place to myself and the window does face almost due east and yes I did capture the sunrise, but not the money shot I preconceived in my head. In my excitement I had forgotten to check at what latitude the sun rises mid-September. On this day the azimuth was more northern than optimal for my money shot. After the fact research, has highlighted mid October or mid March would be better suited as the sun would be centred in the window, when rising, at these times during its Southern Hemisphere summer migration. Also on reflection the real money shot would also requires some light cloud on the horizon for the window to be filled with the glorious orange morning colours. Anyway, I was happy I made the effort and was satisfied with my ‘less than what could have been’ photos.

After a late breakfast Joan and I returned to the western side of the NP and completed the short walks to Hawks Head and the Ross Graham Lookout. On the way back into town we stopped off at Meanarra Lookout above Kalbarri. It was here that we decided to drop the kayak in The Murchison tomorrow and explore some of that mighty river. After lunch we did a short run in the car and checked out the Zuytdorp Memorial, Back Beach, Blue Holes, Red Bluff Beach and Red Bluff. At Red Bluff we saw another group of whales migrating south. This prompted us to estimate we have sighted more than 200 whales, from the coastline over the past fortnight. On the way home we went for a short 4WD drive along the banks of The Murchison and located a good launching spot for the kayak next day.

Friday we returned to the spot chosen the previous day, launched the kayak and paddled 4 kilometres up stream, before stopping for our picnic lunch. We had the benefit of the outgoing tide on the return journey to our starting point.

Saturday morning we broke camp and drove 60 kilometres south to Lynton, pulling up at the Linga Longer Station Stay adjacent to the historic Convict ruins, we had visited last Sunday. We had a quiet overnight waypoint here with views of the ocean and Pink Lake. We also visited Captain Sandford’s Homestead, the old barn that now houses a museum and climbed the hill to visit Ron’s Memorial. What a surprise that was. Lynton was very pleasant during our stay but must be very windy at times, as suggested by the north facing trees lining the entrance driveway.

Sunday morning we were on the road by 10:00am, stopped off at Northaven to have a look at this neat little historic town before moving onto to Drummond Cove, on the outskirts of Geraldton. Sunday afternoon we had a look around town and did some shopping. This being the first large centre we have stopped at for some time we will treat this as a service stop and visit Bunnings, BCF, Aldi and Woolworths over the next few days to replenish stocks and provisions. 

Until next week stay happy and safe.


Week 23 - Geraldton - Three Springs - Coorow - Moora

2019-09-16 to 2019-09-22

Had a change of pace and scenery this week. We started the week in Geraldton, staying at the Drummond Cove CP. Geraldton is a service town and that was the main purpose for us this waypoint. Opportunity to do some maintenance and work on the van plus top up our provisions. We spent our time visiting BCF, Bunnings, Clark Rubber, Caravan Service Centres, Aldi and Woolworths.  Think there was a BWS in there as well. A lot of shopping but we managed to find everything we were chasing. We did take some time out to visit some of the local attractions. Geraldton also claims some of the HMAS Sydney II fame and has a large and very impressive Memorial to the 645 souls lost in Australia’s largest maritime disaster during World War II. We also visited the Point Moore Lighthouse and watched the Sea Lions basking in the sun from the vantage point on The Esplanade. One was even frolicking in the water putting on a show for us spectators. Geraldton also has an impressive cathedral. Impressive from the outside and surprising on the inside. Information boards revealed it was constructed by the Right Reverend Monsignor John Cyril Hawes (7 September 1876–26 June 1956). Further research revealed he was an architect and priest. Hawes was known for designing and constructing church buildings in England, Western Australia and the Bahamas. He served as a priest in the Church of England before converting to Roman Catholic and received ordination as a Catholic priest. He was later named a Domestic Prelate by Pope Pius XI and given the title "monsignor". After retiring he lived as a hermit in the Bahamas.

Wednesday we had planned to move a little further down the coast but on the spur of the moment we decided to go via the Midlands Route through Mingenew to checkout what all the fuss was about surrounding the wildflowers. We stopped at Mingenew for lunch and in short decided to continue through Wildflower Country, pulling up that day at Three Springs. A great waypoint. Free camping at the local pool with great amenities including hot showers. Next day armed with maps, brochures and pictures identifying the many wildflowers we drove all round the district admiring the vibrant colourful array and carpets of wildflowers along the roadsides and countryside. One unexpected find was the Three Springs Imery’s Talc Mine, the largest Talc Mine in the Southern Hemisphere and the second largest in the World with an annual production exceeding 120,000 tonnes. It is an open cut mine and I was surprised to learn the many uses of Talc in the industrial world aside from cosmetic applications. It is found in items as wildly varied as animal feed, automobiles, chewing gum, fertilisers, paint, paper, plastics and tyres. Equally as impressive was their Safety KPI  Board on display at the front gate. It claimed the operation has currently worked 5,846 days injury free. If correct, this equates to no lost time injuries for just over 16 years. Wow, something to be proud of. 

Friday we moved a little further down the Midlands Road arriving at Coorow. After lunch with no real passion for or knowledge of horticulture we headed 32 kilometres out of town following a mud map and rough directions to a gravel pit down the end of a dirt track, in search of a Wreath Flower. Good news is we found it. Not a large specimen but a good one. Not bad for absolute amateurs.

Saturday we walked around the Coorow Farm just out of town, where an area has been put aside to showcase the local wildflowers. The Coorow Farm has an interesting history as it was purchased by a group of farmers for the benefit of the Coorow Community. It is farmed each year by volunteers, using their own machinery and all costs are donated. All proceeds are used to benefit the community by the way of a small grants program. A fantastic little town with a clever solution to be proactive and providing a means of surviving in these hard times.

Had a late start Sunday but managed to break camp and get to Moora by lunch time. It wasn’t exactly a hard ask as it was only 90 kilometres down the Midlands Highway. Located the caravan park and secured a snug but private corner site. After lunch we had a quick sortie around town, locating the bottle shops and IGA. Looks like a nice little town so might spent a few days here looking around. Our friends Doug and Lyn have just left Port Hedland and there is every likelihood they will catch up with us next few weeks. That would be exciting and an excuse to celebrate. Safe travel guys. Hope our paths do cross.


Week 24 - Moora

2019-09-23 to 2019-09-29

We have had a great week. We were fortunate to secure a great corner site at the Moora Caravan Park. A large site that afforded us some privacy, great for Joan’s morning exercise regime and for once correctly aligned to provide both morning and late afternoon shade. 

Monday once we got the washing and some other mundane chores out of the way we walked up to the visitors centre followed by our introduction drive around town. Coupled with the things of interest around the town and surrounding district along with discovering the WA Equestrian Federation 2019 Moora Horse Trials were being conducted the coming weekend, on the edge of town, it was an easy decision to stay the week.

Tuesday we drove 53 kilometres south to New Nocia, Australia’s only monastic town. The Benedictine monks arrived here in 1847 and set up a community ultimately building a monastery, a church, schools, a convent and acquiring and collecting religious art, Australian contemporary art, mission and monastery memorabilia. We knew we were in for a special day the moment we sighted the spectacular scattered buildings through the trees, in the middle of the West Australian bush. We joined a 2-hour guided town tour taking us behind the scenes and locked doors to better understand the history and view the hidden artworks. Not only historical, educational and interesting but a very spiritual and peaceful location. The monks also produce a diverse range of locally produced goods, including delicious bread, olive oil, Abbey brewed ale and wine. The tour included the Mission Interpretation Centre, Abbey Church (housing the marble tomb of New Norcia’s founder, Rosendo Salvador and the rare sgraffito artwork on the walls), Flour Mill, Educational Centre, St Ildephonsus’ College  and St Gertrude’s College. Both colleges had their own chapels annexed to the buildings. After the tour we made our way across to the New Norcia Hotel, originally built in 1927 to house visiting parents of students attending the colleges. It is a grand neo-classical style building with huge verandahs, on a rise nestled amongst the gum trees overlooking the township. It is certainly a special looking building and definitely doesn’t, look like a hotel. We enjoyed a late lunch and sampled the Abbey Ale. The Abbey Ale was 7.3% ALC/VOL or approximately 1.8 standard drinks, meaning it was only a taste but good enough to buy some take away to enjoy back at the van. 

Wednesday morning another quiet morning around the van. Spent the afternoon checking out the town sights and murals. Finished the day carrying out some successful geocaching around town.

Thursday we packed a picnic lunch and went exploring the heart of Wildflower Country - Watheroo and surrounding areas. First stop was Carot Well Road to locate a rare and endangered patch of Eucalyptus Rhodantha (Rose Mallee) claimed to be the only patch in the world. Took some time but we eventually located it. From here it was off to a number of salt lakes off Gyunyidi Wubin Road. We made it to Jingemia Cave in Watheroo NP in time for lunch. After lunch we explored the cave and then made our way back to Moora by a number of backroads.  All up we travelled just over 200 kilometres with the road being lined with wildflowers the entire way. The other amazing thing was the number of blue tongue lizards we passed. In total we spotted at least 15 of them crossing the roads, plus one that visited during lunch. Needless to say I captured a few photos.

Friday, another lazy day around the van. Saturday and Sunday were horsey days. Earlier in the week we had discovered Moora was hosting WA EFI Equestrian Horse Trials over the weekend so we decided to go along and enjoy the spectacle of Eventing made up of Dressage, a Cross Country phase and a Showjumping round. The competitor with the least faults at the conclusion of the three elements, win their class. Saturday was a full day of Dressage Tests and some showjumping for Pony Club and Adult Riders not competing in 1*, 2* or 3* classes. Sunday was the cross country phase for all classes and showjumping for the 1- 3* groups. Joan really enjoyed the Dressage tests on Saturday. In fact she was a little surprised at the quality of some of the Dressage performed by Horse Trial horses. I’m no real fan of Dressage but it does amaze me the skill levels, achievements and bond between some riders and their mounts. I do however really enjoy the showjumping and cross country phases of eventing. It is exciting and sometimes brutal with faults for time penalties and other riding indiscretions (refusals, falling off, being vetted out). It was a great two days and bought back a lot of fond memories of weekends spent with our kids competing at various events around Queensland back in the day. After lunch we headed for Perth arriving at Karrinyup Waters Resort, Gwelup, Perth late afternoon; home for the next week or so.


Week 25 - Perth

2019-09-30 to 2019-10-06

After six (gruelling) months on the road; trekking through National Parks, exploring canyons, kayaking, snorkelling, riding camels, climbing sand dunes, being wind blown and searching for wildflowers it was time to have a break. So this week, currently in Perth, we have kicked back and done very little.

Monday we went and explored Kings Park to continue on with the wildflowers theme and Friday we visited the Perth Royal Show at Claremont Showgrounds, while the car was being serviced. The remainder of the week we lazed around the van or the heated pool at the Karrinyup Resort.

Sunday, having enjoyed doing nothing for most of the week on the north side of Perth, we decided to relocate 38 kilometres to Fremantle and do more of the same on the south side. We set up at Fremantle Village with no idea what the next week holds in store for us. 

Take care one and all.

Happy birthday Garry. 5/10/1954 - 4/3/2019. Garry would have turned 65 yesterday.


Week 26 Perth - Sometimes you shouldn’t go back.

2019-10-07 to 2019-10-13

This has been our second week of R&R in Perth. Last Sunday we relocated from Karrinyup Resort, on the north side of Perth to Fremantle Village on the south side of Perth. Unfortunately it has been a week of highs and lows.

We visited Perth back in May 2008 and one of the highlights of that trip was spending three nights on Rottnest Island just off the coast of Fremantle. We certainly were looking forward to revisiting again on this trip. Tuesday morning turned out to be a perfect blue sky day and we set out early catching the 9:30am ferry across to the island. The ferry was packed to capacity on the way over,  as was the island when we disembarked 30 minutes later. We secured tickets for the Hop On Hop Off Island Explorer Bus, something that was not available eleven years ago. Last trip the only options were shanks pony or hired push bikes. The Island is still beautiful and we saw (and photographed) lots of quokkas. The problem is it has become too popular and the infrastructure, including the number of buses and gazetted timetable has not kept up with the growth. The Island Explorer offers 19 iconic stops to enjoy on your staggered trip around the island. There were so many visitors wanting to catch the buses that we only got to alight at two stops, spending the remainder of the day stranded at a remote stop waiting for an available bus with room for more passengers or walking between stops to at least keep advancing around the island. We still enjoyed the day, especially the quokkas and the beer and pizza at the pub in the evening waiting for the return ferry to the mainland, but it failed to meet the highs and the memories of our 2008 visit.

The other highlights of the week also involved food and drink. We took some time out and visited two iconic beer houses; lunch at James Squire Generous Squire in Perth CBD and dinner another day at Little Creatures, Fremantle wharf. Both visits were very enjoyable due largely to the great food and even better beer offerings. Not a big fan of cities but really enjoy the eating options and the access to public transport making it possible to go out and not worry about parking or driving home. 

The week however ended on another sour note and learning experience. Saturday afternoon we went shopping to get provisions for the coming week. We plan to head inland to Wave Rock and surrounds. Returning home realised we needed to get some fuel before heading bush. Rather than wait till the morning and pick up fuel on the way out of town we turned around and went back to the Woolworths garage in South Fremantle. Turned out to be a bad decision because I somehow had a seniors moment and topped the car up with ULP instead of diesel. Luckily I realised my stupidity before driving off and did not start the engine. A series of phone calls to RACQ resulted in the vehicle being towed back to the van park and Sunday morning Wrong Fuel Rescue, a mobile roadside service drained the tank, flushed the fuel lines and filter and now mush wiser and a little poorer I hope never to do this again. Ah well, we head off tomorrow, back to the simple life on the road and exploring the country, leaving the brights lights behind.

Trust you all have a safe and rewarding week.

PS I mainly write this blog each week so that I will have a reference document in my dotage years. However I am interested on what reach it does have. Get Jealous is not good at capturing visits or times read, therefore it would be great if occasionally anyone that reads this drops me a short line, just for my interest.


Week 27 - Wave Rock, Bunbury and friends.

2019-10-14 to 2019-10-20

After the dramas of last week it was good to be back on the road and travelling some backroads this week. Monday we packed up camp and departed Perth without issue. Heading east towards Hyden we were surprised to come across a dog cemetery in the the middle of nowhere, well about four kilometres west of Corrigin. It is a rather large unique resting places for dogs. The site also advised that Corrigin, is the World Record Holder of the Collie Dog in a Ute Que. Initially in 1998 with a convoy of 699 registered utes, regaining the record again in 2002 with 1527 registered utes. Next surprise was our free overnight camp that night just on the other side of Corrigin; Rock Gorge Pool. A natural rock Gorge which was dammed in 1956 to create a large swimming pool. Monday night we had the whole place to ourselves. A perfect quiet waypoint.

We spent Tuesday through Friday at Hyden, camped at Wave Rock. We had visited here back in 2008 staying at the resort that was still under construction, at that time. The rock remains the same today, but the vision of Russel Mouritz, a local known as the area’s Mr Tourism, has come to fruition, with accommodation for all tastes at Wave Rock, including a new and modern caravan park and camping ground. The resort has been finished and has a salt spa and a music Amphitheatre currently under construction and now also boasts an airport.

Over the three days we visited the rock, climbed the rock, visited Hippos Yawn, drove to Mulka’s Cave (refer the attached photo for the legend of Mulka), climbed the Humps to admire nature’s free rock sculptures formed over the millennia by the wind and rain. Joan named one ‘the chook’ and I could see a prehistoric reptile/turtle in another rock structure. We also invested in a gold pass and visited the local attractions of Hyden, which include the Lace Place, Toy Soldier Collection, Wildlife park, Wildflower Shoppe and the Pioneer Town Museum. The lace collection was an interesting snapshot of Australian wedding dresses over our short history. The toy soldier collection was impressive and reminded me of my schoolboy passion for collecting miniatures. Something that was very popular back then but not something you’d see these days, other than the periodic Woolworths ooshies and Coles miniatures push for supermarket supremacy. The wildlife park was a little tired, depressing and rundown, though the animals are fed and well cared for. The number of ornamental statutes are catching up to the live exhibits and may be  the future of the park. We were surprised to see a dinosaur exhibit. The Pioneer Town Museum was small but jammed packed with Australian memorabilia. 

Friday we broke camp and had a leisurely drive along the Tin Horse Highway eventually pulling up at Williams on our way back to the coast at Bunbury to catch up with good friends Lyn and Doug. Saturday we arrived at Bunbury about midday being sited next door to our friends. It was a leisurely afternoon and evening having a few drinks and catching up over a communal evening meal. It is always good to catch up with old friends.

Sunday was a little windy and overcast but cleared up and improved a little after lunch. During the morning we washed and did our customary run to the visitors centre and Dan Murphy’s. Sunday afternoon we did a cursory introductory drive around town, with Doug and Lyn, before returning to the shade of the caravans with cold beers and rum awaiting before a lovely dinner. Thanks Lyn for a beautifully cooked meal. Life is good.

Stay safe and happy till next time.

P.S. Michael it was really good to receive your long and newsy email. Much appreciated. I will respond shortly. Say hi to Garry for me next time you are passing by there.


Week 28 - Bunbury - Augusta - Walpole

2019-10-21 to 2019-10-27

We have a great week continuing down the west coast. The bonus this week we have camped with and spent time with friends, Lyn and Doug.

Monday while Doug and Lyn, traveled to Mandurah to visit some friends, Joan and I headed south to Busselton. The main attraction here being the pier. The 154 year old Busselton Jetty is the longest timber-piled Jetty in the Southern Hemisphere at 1841 metres long. It was a beautiful day and we were looking forward to the stroll along the full length of the Jetty. We did get to do the walk and we did enjoy it but not without a feeling of déjà vu. Just like our Tasmanian experience at Bicheno, Wineglass Bay and Port Arthur; we turned up at an iconic local location to see, a cruise ship, the Sea Princess parked just off shore and a thousand visiting passengers wanting to share the special moment with us. There was however, one special sight that I will remember. In my 65 years I have never seen baby seagulls, but did see a whole colony of nesting seagulls midway along the Jetty. Lots of seagulls with their baby chicks nesting on an unused elevated section of the jetty.

On the way home we called into the Bunbury Catholic Cathedral. A modern and unusual modern building with large painted windows. We also investigated the five-and-half-metre metallic aboriginal steel bust sculpture opposite the caravan park in Koombana Park, known as Wardandi Boodja representing a Noongar face and South West families.The concept being to demonstrate that the face was “no one’s yet everyone’s at the same time”.

Tuesday Doug enticed us in playing a game of golf at the neighbouring Capel Golf Course. It was a great morning but probably put Doug off golf for a while. Doug has a decent swing can hit a ball and has some control over the direction and distance he wants the ball to go. In short Joan and I can’t. A beautiful course, lots of kangaroos and birdlife but not a lot of golf from our side. Doug ended up with a reasonable stroke tally, our side of the ledger, unfortunately, resembled a cricket score.

Wednesday we both broke camp and relocated to Boogaloo Campground, on the outskirts of Augusta, after stopping for lunch in Margaret River. Wednesday afternoon we did a quick run around town to get our bearings. Late afternoon it become overcast, cold and windy. As soon as the sun went down we moved indoors and not long after it started to rain.

Thursday was overcast with periods of sun. We went our seperate ways this day but in essence covered the same ground. First stop, Cape Leeuwen where the Southern and Indian Oceans meet at the most South West Point of Australia. From here it was onto Hamelin Bay via Caves Road before making our way to Prevelly Beach and Surfers Point Headland Beach overlooking Fraggle Rock at the mouth of the Margaret River. On the way out, we pondered over the naked blindfolded ‘skateboarding woman’ sculpture, named Eurybia. Google advises it was created by local artist Russell Sheridan and it is a mascot for the Headland to represent mastery over the seas. It also exhibits the excitement/fear of the challenge out there in the sea. From here we ventured to Berry Farm for a ploughman’s lunch and a sample of the local beer and wine. Back at camp we enjoyed happy hour with our friends, though it was bitterly cold and still a little blowy. Once the sun dropped we scampered indoors and surprisingly it rained again that night.

Friday, Doug and Lyn moved onto Walpole. We drove out to Blackwood River National Park and checked out the camping grounds at Alexandra Bridge and Sue’s Bridge stopping at Nillup General Store for lunch to feast on homemade sausage rolls. The magic in today was the wind had dropped and the sun was shining. 

Saturday we packed up the camp and followed in the tracks of Doug and Lyn, enjoying our drive through a number of well treed National Parks and Forestry Reserves, arriving at Walpole just after lunch. Bit of a milestone day insofar as when we turned left at Karridale and started heading east, the reality hit home that we are now, in fact, heading home, although it is a 4,672 kilometre journey from Karridale.

Updated data for WA trip. The caravan has travelled 10,691 kilometres so far and we have run up 17,832 kilometres in the tug. Rest Point caravan park turned out to be a great waypoint with large grassy sites.

Sunday we joined Doug and Lyn for a 2.5 hour cruise with WOW Eco Cruises on Walpole Inlet and Nornalup Inlet. Garry (7th generation Walpolen) tour guide and skipper managed to weave the history, ecology and the natural beauty of the forests and coastlines into an educational, interesting and fun morning. We moored on the Walpole Peninsula side and walked across The Depot to Rocky Head to view the pristine acqua coloured Southern Ocean before returning to Walpole for lunch. We intend to spend a few more days in Walpole exploring the local area before moving onto Albany later in the week.

Trust you all have a great week and as always stay happy and safe.


Week 29 - Walpole and Albany

2019-10-28 to 2019-11-05

I am a little late posting my blog this week. It is due in part to this being our first week of bad weather. Most of the week was overcast, cold, raining and windy making it difficult to leave the van. Then along came Saturday and Sunday, the wind dropped and the sun was shining so we spent full days out exploring the area. My good intentions to write and post the blog Monday got squashed as Monday was also a beautiful day; too good to stay home and play catch up so we went exploring again. 

Anyway we started the week in Walpole and Monday, although overcast and windy we headed north from town to the Giant Tingle Tree and Circular Pool. We had visited here in 2008 but glad we revisited this time around. From here the plan was to head down to the Nornalup NP and walk around Conspicuous Cliff and visit Peaceful Bay. By the time we reached the trailhead at Conspicuous Cliff it was raining. We had lunch in the car hoping it would clear and we could complete our walk. It didn’t, so we abandoned our plans and returned to base. 

Tuesday morning Doug and Lyn packed up and headed for Albany. We hung in at Walpole and although the day started as overcast it cleared mid morning and we retraced our steps to Conspicuous Cliffs, Peaceful Bay and called into Coalmine Beach on the homeward drive.

Wednesday we moved on and caught up with Doug and Lyn in Albany. We stopped at Denmark on the way through and decided if we had time we would come back and explore this area, as it looked promising with some interesting landmarks, vineyards and a cheese factory. Albany was windy and it started raining almost as soon as we arrived. It fact, it remained like this for the next few days. It was unfortunate, as we did not get to spend much time with Doug and Lyn who decided to move on Friday, whilst we decided to hang in for the better weather promised over the next few days. It is unlikely we will see Doug & Lyn again, this trip, as their commitments have them progressing a little quicker than us. We did get to enjoy a fish and chip dinner Thursday evening with them, the evening before they departed. We certainly enjoyed tagging along with Doug and Lyn the last fortnight. It is always good to catch up with, spend time with and the enjoy the company of  good friends. Safe travel guys.

Being van bound for a few days had me playing and organising photos and creating some ‘now and then’ photos, comparing our 2008 WA visit with our current tour.

Friday, between showers we did manage to visit the Desert Mounted Corps Memorial on Mount Clarence, a sandalwood factory at Mount Romance before heading off to view chainsaw sculptures created by Darrel Radcliffe. On the way back to the van we called in on the Aboriginal Fish Traps at Lower Kalgar. On the way to the sandalwood factory we passed a large scaffold structure, in a paddock, which I immediately identified as a replica of Mt Midoriyama featured on the Ninja Warrior TV series. A short detour soon had us at the front gate of Sam Goodall, a Ninja Warrior contestant. Darrel Radcliffe’s chainsaw wood carvings were also impressive. Scattered around his small acreage house block visitors are invited to drive through, admire his work and leave a donation. It was a real flashback for us, to our visits to Chetwyn (BC, Canada), home of the world chainsaw championships. 

Saturday a marginally better day found us returning to Mount Adelaide, the site of the National Anzac Centre and Convoy Outlook, overlooking King George Sound. It was from here 1 November 1914 that a convoy of 38 Australian and New Zealand ships departed  “with our magnificent fleet and 30,000 men moved on to - the unknown”. The Anzac Centre is impressive, a little sombre but well set out and a must see if visiting Albany. Visitors need to allow at least a half day to take it all in.

Sunday, a glorious sunny day had us visiting Torndirrup NP to experience the Gap, the Natural Bridge and the Blowholes. The Gap and Natural Bridge were spectacular. The Blowholes although making a lot of noise did not produce any spouting water. The lacklustre swell meant we got to view a hole in a rock rather than Blowholes. After lunch we spent the afternoon at the Historic Whaling Station. Cheynes hunted and processed whales on this site till 1978. It was a very interesting and educational tour and afternoon. The Station has been left exactly as it was at closure with the addition of educational films, many photos, artefacts and interpretative signs clearly explaining the workings and daily routine of a whaling station. Well worth the visit. The one thing that caught our attention, was the number of photos depicting school groups on school excursions to the station. Probably the equivalent of kids visiting an abattoir these days, which is probably not going to happen in this political correct era.

Anyway it is still a nice day here and time to get out and about. Take care one and all and make the most of what you have.


Week 30 - Albany and Esperance

2019-11-04 to 2019-11-10

This has been a very rewarding week. Starting Monday we backtracked to Denmark to check out Elephants Pool and Greens Pool, both situated in the Williams Bay NP. So glad we did. Both pools are located in close proximity, only about 500 metres apart, separated by a rocky headland. To our surprise I think we stumbled upon the most impressive coastal swimming location in Western Australia. The deep crystal clear water, white sand and picturesque rocky outcrops present not only a perfect picture but a great swimming location. As the name suggests Elephants Rock looks exactly like a herd of elephants paddling in the water, creating a stunning sight looking out over the Great Southern Ocean.  Nearby, Greens Pool is a sandy white beach ringed by large granite boulders that prevent the swell of the ocean reaching the shoreline. A great swimming and snorkelling location.

From here we drove inland to lunch at Duckett Mill Wines, incorporating Farmhouse Cheese. We enjoyed another Ploughman’s lunch sitting in the sunny garden restaurant. Taking the tourist route home via Kronkup to Albany ended a very rewarding and enjoyable day.

Tuesday was also a glorious day and enjoyable day but we had to work for it. We drove up into the Albany hinterland to Porongurup NP to experience Karri Lookout and the Granite Skywalk attached to Castle Rock. This involved a rather step Grade 5,  4.4 kilometre return walk. The elevation was only 670 metres but I calculated the grade to be 17.7° or approx 1:3. Regardless it was hard work, but we made it and enjoyed the views. The last 100 metres was the most difficult  scrambling over boulders and lifting ourselves through crevices to climb the last obstacle, a 7-metre ladder to the summit. The prize was certainly worth the effort. As always the photos do not do the location or effort involved justice.

Wednesday was a service day, grocery shopping and caravan cleaning/maintenance. We did take time out over lunch to enjoy a feed of fish and chips from Hooked on Middleton Fish and Chips at Middleton Beach. This local fish and chip shop was awarded 2018 National Champions. Judged as WA and Australia’s best fish and chips. Our expectations were high. The chips were fantastic but the fish a little disappointing.

Thursday we broke camp and travelled east pulling up and camping at an abandoned school yard at Fitzgerald. Friday we continued east arriving in Esperance, Pink Lake Caravan Park mid afternoon. 

Saturday was a beautiful sunny day. 10 o’clock found us at the Esperance Museum where we learnt about the Spacelab that crashed near Esperance in 1979, and Esperance successfully fined NASA $400 for littering. We then spent the remainder of the day slowly exploring the 40 kilometre loop known as the Great Ocean Drive. A drive, reminiscent of a similar named drive in Victoria. This drive involves driving from one Headland to the next; the difference being rather than rugged coastline we were presented with one perfect white sandy surfing beach, one after another.  We stopped and admired the views and watched surfers at West Beach, Blue Haven Beach, Salmon Beach, Fourth Beach, lunched at Twilight Beach, before moving onto Observatory Beach, Nine Mile Beach and Ten Mile Beach. We also called into both the new and old wind farms. The now defunct Salmon Beach wind farm was the first commercially operated Wind Farm in Australia, commissioned in March 1987. The return homeward trip took us inland via the Pink Lake which unfortunately is pink no longer due to the fall in salt levels and other changes in the water, a result of human progress and infrastructure projects.

Sunday we woke, as predicted, to a warm day. Our strategy was to spend the afternoon swimming at Le Grand NP. After breakfast first stop was the Esperance Farmers Market; a little disappointing as very little produce but plenty of the usual overpriced crafty stuff. From here we picked up lunch, at the French Bakery, before heading eastward with the next stop being Esperance’s very own full-sized replica of Stonehenge. A much more complete and manicured version of the original, as it is presented as the original would have appeared in 1950BC. Whilst here the wind picked up and we decided to head for what we hoped were sheltered beaches at Le Grand NP. Unfortunately by the time we got to Le Grand Beach and had lunch the wind had swung around to an onshore cold southerly. No swim today but a short walk along the beach before visiting Frenchman Peak and the picturesque Lucky Bay for afternoon tea. The only stop on the way home was Whispering Rock, though still windy was not whispering, at Thistle Bay. 

Overall this has been a great week and we look forward to what Esperance still has to offer us next week. Our thoughts are with all those on the east coast impacted or threatened by bushfires. Take care and stay safe.


Week 31 - Esperance - Norseman - Kalgoorlie

2019-11-11 to 2019-11-17

This has been a week of contrasts. Although a fairly quiet week we still managed to achieve a little each day. The biggest challenge has been adapting to +40°C temperatures after spending a number of weeks in the low 20°’s.

Monday through Wednesday were cool overcast days so we were inclined to potter around the van in the mornings and head out after lunch or late afternoon. Monday afternoon we enjoyed a return walk along the shore of Esperance Bay starting at the Lighthouse sculpture on the Taylor Street Wharf to the now defunct and decaying Dempster Jetty.

Tuesday we visited a number of lakes making up the Esperance Lakes System. The attraction here was the canoe trail encompassing Lake Windabout, Woody Lake and Lake Wheatfield. It looked promising but far too cold with the cool conditions and strong southerly breezes. Late afternoon we returned to Twilight beach for a stroll along the beach to Fourth Beach and return.

Wednesday afternoon we ventured north, just out of town to Lake Monjingup Reserve. Only a small lake but a few walking tracks, a bird hide and a multitude of Showy Banksias. We travelled from here a little further north to check out the Helm Arboretum. We had some difficulty locating it and when we did it was not overly appealing so we retreated back to Esperance for an early happy hour.

Thursday was Joan’s birthday and we spent the day exploring the Duke of Orleans Bay and Hammer Head, near Condingup, just east of the eastern boundary of Cape Le Grand NP. The day started with the GPS taking us on the roundabout, back country, tourist route to Condingup, getting us there just in time for lunch at the ‘Condy Tavern’, home of the famous Condy burger. Enjoyable lunch but not sure what was so special about the burger, other than we drove 100 kilometres to sample their pub grub. After lunch, the first stop was Duke of Orleans Bay near Table Island. From here we moved onto Hammer Head and a series of spectacular crystal-clear turquoise swimming and surfing beaches. The pick being Wharton Beach. Although there were some surfers enjoying the waves it was still too cold for us to have a dip. It should be noted all the Surfers were wearing wet suits. Lunch may have been a little underwhelming but we made up for it with a great feed of fresh prawns and beer for tea. 

Friday was a travel day, having a leisurely drive from Esperance through Grass Patch to Norseman. Only 200 kilometres inland but remarkably warmer. According to a plague and statue in the Main Street, the origin of the name Norseman is a result of a horse of the same name, owned by Laurie Sinclair. Mr Sinclair and others were passing through the area, 13th August, 1894 when Mr Sinclair’s horse pawed up a very rich specimen of gold bearing ore, starting a gold rush that has never ended. The new goldfield and resulting town, according to the legend was named Norseman after the horse.

Saturday we moved onto Kalgoorlie arriving just on lunchtime. It was 41°C. We hooked the power up, turned on the aircon and did not emerge from the van till 4pm. We did a quick trip to the Super Pit Lookout before having a brief familiarisation drive around town and returning to the van park, for a dip in their pool. Think it is going to take a few days to re-climatise to this heat. We are getting concerned about spending summer back in Central Queensland. Can also really sympathise with all the fire fighters and volunteers recently fighting fires in NSW and QLD. Our discomfort pales into insignificance.

Sunday, woke to another warm day. Top of 43°C forecasted and achieved. Morning consisted of the best market visit ever. We planned to check out the market in the historical precinct of Boulder. We drove down Burt Street passed the Town Hall spotted a few stalls, moved around the corner to the park. A few more stalls but nothing that really caught our attention. Didn’t even get out of the car, decided it was too hot, there was nothing of interest, so let’s keep going. As I said ‘best market visit ever!’ After fuelling up, a visit to BCF and Woolworths we scurried home and spent the remainder of the day migrating between the pool and the air conditioned van. In between swims I did manage to complete some online Christmas shopping and book a mine tour for Monday morning. 

Hope it cools down a little next week as we plan to cross the Nullarbor back end of next week. Until then take care and stay happy.


Week 32 - Kalgoorlie - Nullarbor - Ceduna

2019-11-18 to 2019-11-24

This has been a week of unknowns and reflection. Started the week in Kalgoorlie, WA with a 44°C day and a mine tour. Finished the week 1400 kilometres east in South Australia (SA) at Ceduna.

Monday, I was excited to be going on a tour of the Fimiston Open Pit at the Barrick/Newmont Kalgoorlie Consolidated Gold Mines Pty Ltd operations. This pit is better known as the Super Pit. It was big, 3.9 kilometres long, 1.6 kilometres wide and over 600 metres deep and impressive, but at the end of the day I concluded, overall it was no better or worse than the many mines I have worked at or visited over my working career. The Komatsu PC 8000 Face Shovel was impressive but unfortunately pales into insignificance when compared to a 8750 Marion/Bucyrus Dragline. Likewise the CAT 793 haul trucks didn’t get the heart racing (Dawson had 797’s). The processing plant was large and well laid out but without a product stock pile, not the same feeling of achievement as looking at the money maker waiting to be dispatched around the world. As with all gold mines all that can be seen on the input side of the plant is a stockpile of ore and on the output side waste product.  Very few people see the end result. The gold room is secure and off limits to everyone. Mining was good to me and I do appreciate the importance and the role it plays in providing the lifestyle and infrastructure we take for granted but it also reconfirmed I don’t miss it at all. After driving past the warehouse, maintenance shop, tyre bay and fuel farm it all came flashing back; the old adage ‘same shit different flies’.

Tuesday, another hot day and my mind shifted to the remainder of the week, Crossing the Nullarbor. This next part of our trip did hold some concerns and risks for us. For us, it was the last frontier, the last remaining stretch of Highway One, in Australia for us to experience. We know very little about it except it is a long boring 1200 kilometre drive, that can be extremely hot, (+40°C), water is scarce, winds can create expensive headwinds, particularly with fuel prices hovering around the $2.00/litre mark. A further complication,  at this time of year, thanks to daylight saving, is the time zone difference of 2.5 hours between Western Australia and South Australia. That’s a lot to take out of one day. Our main concern being van parks expect you to depart by 10:00am each morning. 10:00am SA time is 7:30am WA time. With my morning routine I would never be ready to leave by that ungodly hour. Also to minimise wastage, we also had to ensure all our fruit and veggies would be consumed prior to crossing into SA as their fruit fly free zone and quarantine laws require all fresh food stuffs be binned at the border. Turned out the quarantine station was a Ceduna.

So Tuesday was spent looking at menus, how much water and fuel we needed to carry, contingencies for extreme weather events, heat or wind and the best way to beat the time zone challenge. We completed a shopping, topped up jerry cans, checked tyre pressures, and repacked the van and car to ensure equal distribution of load across all four axles. Our strategy to combat the time zone dilemma was from Tuesday, to advanced our clocks 30 minutes per day, devising our own time zone, so that by the time we hit the border, our body clocks were already on SA time. We were ready for the next phase of this adventure.

Wednesday, the weather was kind to us. It was an overcast 28°C but was very windy and gusty, which turned into our favour once we turned east onto the Eyre Highway, at Norseman, becoming a tail-wind. Overall a good day , averaging an acceptable 16.95ltr/100klm fuel consumption. We covered 419 kilometres, pulling up at Balladonia for the day. Balladonia was just a roadhouse but they also lay claim to the July 1979 Skylab saga.

Thursday, another beautiful clear sky, 28°C day. Unfortunately, no tail-wind but happy to have no wind at all. We only travelled 338 kilometres, averaging 15.23ltr/100klm fuel consumption stopping at Madura Roadhouse for the night. The landscape has been flat with a lot more trees than expected. The trees though are only small and scrubby. As Joan pointed out, it is the Nullarbor Plains not the Nullarbor Desert. The bitumen road has been good and an easy drive. No real highlights so far, though two points of interest that day. Firstly between Balladonia and Caiguna we drove the 90 mile straight. The longest stretch of straight road in Australia, being 164 kilometres in length. Secondly, we stopped for lunch at the Caiguna Blowhole. No it is not on the coast but there is a hole in the ground, being part of a cave system, that expresses air into the atmosphere when the atmospheric air pressure changes. The cave breathes out with a fall in pressure and breathes in with a rise in pressure.

Friday we planned to stay at Eucla overnight, just short of the border but the caravan park was closed for roadwork upgrades so we pushed on the additional 12 kilometres and stayed just over the border at the Border Village, in South Australia. Weather today was low 30’s and thankfully no wind. We only travelled 192 kilometres and consumption once again ran out at 15.3ltr/100klm.

Saturday up early and on the road. A great day for travelling overcast and cool but not so good for photographs early in the day. It did clear mid morning which was a relief because we were running parallel to the Great Australian Bight and some of the headlands provided incredible and dramatic coastline views and photographic opportunities. Interesting note since crossing the SA Border the landscape was absent of trees, just bluebush and saltbush plants. We stopped for lunch at the Nullarbor Roadhouse and a sign there explained that Nullarbor is derived from the Latin - Nullus arbor which unsurprisingly means ‘no tree’. Fuel at the Nullarbor Roadhouse was 208cpl. After lunch we pushed onto Penong totalling 406 kilometres for the day. We did experience some wind early in the day and late afternoon resulting in an increased fuel consumption of 19.34 litres/100klm

Sunday we slept in and then had a leisurely 79 kilometre drive to Ceduna. Passed through the quarantine station without incident. Obtained a seaside site at the Foreshore Caravan Park and now kicking back in the annex finishing off this blog. It is a great view, a beautiful day with a comfortable sea breeze. Think we will spend 4-5 days here. Just for the record diesel in Ceduna is 137.9cpl. Amazing what a difference 500 kilometres makes, 70.1cpl or $52.57/tank.

Before driving across the Nullarbor I downloaded the entire back catalogue of Hamish and Andy’s podcasts to provide some light entertainment and a distraction for the repetitious kilometres. This worked a treat but we still had time to reflect on our time in WA and on how car travel has changed over the years, amongst other things. I have spent enough time documenting WA, but will share my thoughts on the changes in road trips.

My first big road trip was with Doug, back in the 1970’s. Our epic Maitland NSW to Katherine, NT life-changing trip. Putting aside better roads, the advances in motor vehicles and tyre technology so many other things are so different.

  1. Paper maps versus GPS.
  2. No credit cards. Had to carry cash or send black light signature ahead to banks if wishing to withdraw money. Some vendors accepted cheque’s.
  3. No mobile phones. Had to rely on public phones. Had a scheme with my parents where I would put through a reverse call and the operator would ask if they would accept a reverse call from Hughenden or Tennant Creek etc. They would normally decline, unless they had a need to talk to me, but would hang up knowing where we had arrived that night.
  4. We had no internet or email. If we did not phone we had to write letters or send post cards. Post cards did not require as many words as letters.
  5. We did not expect to receive TV reception at every stop. Today TV reception is almost universal and if not we can stream television on our mobiles or IPads.

The other distraction technique on this portion of the road trip was taking photos of mirages on the road particularly with oncoming traffic. Most were failures but we did get some keepers. 

Anyway time to enjoy some local Ceduna oysters and prawns. Enjoy your week, stay safe and happy.


Week 33 - Ceduna - Streaky Bay - Port Lincoln

2019-11-25 to 2019-12-01

The weather has not been kind to us this week but we still made the the effort to get out and about to explore the surrounds. After a perfect sunny day on Sunday we woke to a windy overcast day on Monday. After lunch we drove from Ceduna west around Murat Bay to Denial Bay, to look back on Ceduna and Thevenard. This coastline was first mapped by Matthew Flinders in 1802. The other attraction, for us, at Denial Bay was the McKenzie ruins, the original homestead of William McKenzie, a pioneer of the district. Although signposted we were not successful in locating the ruins. This along with the hazy conditions across the bay forced us to abandon this plan and return to Ceduna.

Tuesday, another miserable windy day. We ventured out to do some shopping and late afternoon we did go for a walk to the end of the Ceduna Jetty and consoled ourselves with a nice seafood dinner at the Ceduna Foreshore Hotel, that night.

Wednesday morning, moving day, we woke to a beautiful clear blue sunny sky. I did a quick run around the foreshore, to get some snaps of Murat Bay and the Jetty before packing up and relocating to Streaky Bay. We pulled into Little Islands Caravan Park, which turned out to be one of the best waypoints we have ever stayed at. Large flat private sites with incredible modern facilities. We spent Wednesday afternoon getting acquainted with Streaky Bay. Was surprised when fueling up at the local Shell Station to find it has a replica of a world record white pointer shark, caught in local waters back in April 1990. It was just hanging from the ceiling at about eye level and it was a little off putting, as it looked way too pleased with itself swimming straight towards you. Another trivia fact about Streaky Bay is that in mid 1978 Colin Thiele’s novel, Blue Fin was filmed in Streaky Bay, for a movie of the same name. 

Although the weather was great on Wednesday it did deteriorate and unfortunately we had wind and spasmodic rain for the remaining two days. The mornings did allow us to get out and about but we had to head for home mid afternoon both days as the clouds moved in and the wind became gusty.

Thursday we did the Westall Way Loop Drive, south of Streaky Bay. A good gravel road with a number of points of interest along the way, to view this rugged section of coastline. We stopped off at Tractor Beach, High Cliff, the Granites, Point Westall and Smooth Pool. At Tractor Bay there were a couple of inconspicuous small islands off the point. When we moved around to High Cliff at Corvisart Bay we viewed these two islands from a different perspective and couldn’t believe how they now looked like two battleships. From here we drove a further 50 kilometres to Point Labatt to view a sealion colony. We had the whole place to ourselves and fortunately the sun came out and we were able to sit on the observation deck and have lunch and watch the sea lions basking on the rocks below in the sun. On the homeward trip we called into Sceale Bay (pronounced Scale). Back in Streaky Bay we walked out to the end of the Jetty and captured some photos of this local landmark.

Friday was a nasty day but we still travelled out to Cape Bauer, north of town completing the Loop Drive. We stopped off at Hally’s Beach, Whistling Rocks & Blowholes as well as Cape Bauer. Not the best of days to visit these locations but glad we did. Because of the wind the blowholes were whistling but as it was low tide they were not blowing. It would be a spectacular sight when the conditions are right, as at the base of the cliffs, over time, has been eroded creating large caves and also causing fissions (small holes) some 100 metres back from the coastline, in the top of the rocky cliffs. On the day we were there, we could hear the wind howling out of these small holes, but there was also evidence that at high tide a large amount of water is also expelled from these cliff-top holes. That would be a sight to see and probably something to be enjoyed on a hot day.

Saturday we moved again ending up in Port Lincoln. It was a good trip, stopping off at Mortana to have a walk around Murphy’s Haystacks; iselberg rock formations or in my language, a weathered granite outcrop. Have to admit, I couldn’t help myself and ended up taking lots of photos. Not quite the Devil’s Marbles of NT fame but still very impressive. Unfortunately by the time we settled in Port Lincoln the nasty weather had caught up with us and the van rocked again all night, for all the wrong reasons.

Sunday, still a nasty day. We did some shopping in the morning and visited the Information Centre but due to the weather and Joan’s dodgy leg; she has done some ligament or tendon damage whilst running so not very mobile or active, at the moment. Hoping to get into a Doctor tomorrow to identify and sort out the problem. To avoid cabin fever we did venture out in the afternoon for some sight seeing but did not venture too far from the car as it was very windy. We visited the Old Mill, the statute of Matthew Flinders and his cat Trim (Bryce Courtney had a book of the same name, the first Bryce Courtney book I read, a Christmas present from my mother), Winters Hill Lookout, and the Makybe Diva Horse statute (Triple Melbourne Cup Winner, owners Tony & Christine Santic, come from Port Lincoln). Whilst on the foreshore I also stumbled on another plaque remembering and making reference to Colin Thiele and Port Lincoln’s connection to Blue Fin.

Footnote. My interest and reason for commenting on Colin Thiele is my daughter, Kathy, and I were fortunate enough to meet and have dinner with Colin Thiele and his wife Rhonda in 2002. Back then, Colin’s son-in-law provided show jumping and dressage instruction to Kathy and other members of our Central Queensland Pony Club.

Anyway here’s hoping the weather improves shortly but more importantly that some of this rain we are complaining about finds it’s way to drier parts of the country. Take care one and all.


Week 34 - Port Lincoln - Whyalla - Peterborough- Broken Hill

2019-12-02 to 2019-12-08

What a topsy-turvy week. Monday, Joan’s leg was no better, so she went to the doctor. Not good news, a torn meniscus with an anticipated 6 weeks recovery.  I also put the car in for some new tyres. Towing a 3 tonne caravan certainly puts a strain on the rear tyres (especially when not deflated to the correct pressure when not towing), not to mention some of the gravel roads we experienced in Western Australia. Late afternoon we did go for a stroll along the foreshore and the Jetty at Port Lincoln. 

Tuesday we broke camp and set off a little earlier than usual. We were heading for Whyalla, but we had prearranged to stop at Cowell to catch up with and spend some time with Joan’s once upon a time, long time ago, step mother, Carol, whom Joan has not seen since her teen years. It wasn’t as awkward as I expected. In fact, it was a very pleasant family catch-up with an update and run down, on that branch of the family and what has happened over the past 40 years. We caught up over coffee; we then moved onto Whyalla. Arrived there late but with day-light saving we had time to set up camp, a quick visit to Woolworths and then a quick run around town to see some of the highlights. Being a port and steel town not a lot to see. We did visit the ‘Loaded Dog’ Statue, inspired by a short story by Henry Lawson. We then enjoyed happy hour at Hummock Hill  overlooking the Spencer Gulf on one side and the nightmare of the steel works on the other side. I say nightmare, because the sight of the steel works triggered terrible flashbacks of the Newcastle of old. Not the pleasant childhood memories we all love but the dreaded mind blowing acid trip type flashbacks we would rather avoid. I was surprised at my reaction, but it certainly took me by surprise, that in this day and age a rusty 1800’s Victorian era like industrial landscape would still be found in Australia. It was exactly how I remembered the Newcastle industrial and port foreshore area of the 1960-70’s.

We elected not to stay in Whyalla and Wednesday morning we continued north to Port Augusta. Topping up with fuel in Port Augusta I realised we had just achieved a milestone. Although still 2,000 kilometres from home we had in fact circumnavigated Australia in the van, having passed through and camped in Port Augusta July 2015, on our ‘shake-down’ (inaugural) caravan trip from the Gold Coast - Adelaide - Alice Spring - Rockhampton. We turned east from here heading along the Horrocks Highway, arriving at Peterborough, mid afternoon. What an amazing town. To be honest had not even heard of this place until today. Its history is linked to trains. It is now known as Steamtown. Although the era of steam died in 1970 the town now survives on the memory and tourism associated with the trains. Wednesday night we went to a sound and light show at the Roundhouse - a large 23 bay shedding area that circles an 85-foot turntable, being part of the rail yards. It was here we got to see the old engines and carriages in all their glory and learn how an X on a map became the crossroads and lifeblood of Australian railways. Peterborough (the X) was the crossover point for trains travelling from North-South from Adelaide to Alice Springs, as well as trains travelling West - East, Sydney to Perth. In fact, the Indian Pacific passed through town on the Thursday morning while we were there. The town sprung up around the tracks and rail yards and although not the busy centre it used to be, it still promotes trains everywhere you go. Like the  railway system there are four ways into and out of town by road, and on each approach there is a model train to welcome visitors, along with actual trains in the Main Street and a stable full of engines and accompanying carriages at the rail depot. I now have a better understanding of the T, W and Y Class locomotives and an appreciation of why Wayne was so excited when he saw a train (reference to a train strike, Maitland, late 1960’s).

Thursday we walked the Main Street, visited their static train experience; an old Indian Pacific Carriage converted to a museum with an interesting addition, having TV screens inserted in the windows so that patrons can experience the trip from Broken Hill to Peterborough, stopping at Mannahill , along the way. The experience comes complete with sound and built in cams in the seats to replicate the moving train. Quite an experience. We also learnt about Bob the dog. A smaller (terrier like) and much earlier version of Red Dog. Bob however travelled by train and trams, reportably to Sydney, Melbourne, Broken Hill to mention a few places.

Friday we made our way across the border pulling up and camping at the Racecourse in Broken Hill, on the outskirts of town. A nice grassy site with modern amenities and only one other camper.

Saturday was to be a day exploring Broken Hill and surrounds. It was not to be. Went out to the car to pack some items. Opened the rear window of the BT-50 canopy and it exploded in my hands. Leaving me holding the shattered frame and small cubes of hardened glass littered all around me in a semi circle about 1.5 metres in diameter. It took about 2 hours for Joan and I to pick all the shards of glass out of the lush green Racecourse lawn. During this time I also rang ARB and our insurers. ARB were not too surprised and suggested probably a result of a recent stone chip and change in temperatures etc and bang, no more window. Yeah they can fix it, if we want to hang around for a week or so. Insurers were fine, submit a claim and we will process in due course. Wanting to get home in time for Christmas and not rush the home stretch we elected to tape up the rear window with plastic and gaffer tape. We will attend to repairs back In Rockhampton. Saturday afternoon after taping the car up we eventually made it to the Information Centre, then visited some local Pro Hart (Broken Hill local) sculptures, the Kintore Headframe, the Line of Load Miner’s Memorial (paying tribute to the over 800 miners that lost their life working in the local mines since 1886). From here we moved onto Broken Hill South to Bell’s 1950’s Diner and Museum to enjoy a large chocolate malted milkshake in a metal tumbler before calling into the Junction Mine on the way home.

Sunday, up early and straight out of town to the Broken Hill Sculptures and Living Desert. An interesting set up. Twelve sandstone sculptures scattered around a hill top overlooking the surrounding desert and Broken Hill. The Living Desert Flora Trail and Cultural Walk is adjacent to the sculptures with interpretative boards and a number of walking trails. It was too hot to attempt these walks today so we returned to town and visited the Pro Hart Gallery. Kevin (Pro) was a local of Broken Hill, being born and raised on a nearby sheep station and working in the mines as an engine driver for a number of years. He eventually became a full time artist but remained loyal to and based himself in Broken Hill.  From the Gallery we travelled the 25 kilometres out to historic Silverton, now also famous as the site of Mad Max II filming. We enjoyed a good lunch and cold beer at the hotel before doing the local sights and then retreating back to the comfort of the caravan (outside temperature approaching 40°C).

All in all a surprising week. Firstly, visiting Carol, then Peterborough full of surprises and railway history, followed by Broken Hill with many more sculptures, art galleries, art studios, a Musicians Club, ornate buildings and culture in general that I had not contemplated. Furthermore there is a constant reminder of the town’s history; a great big dirty high wall/mullock heap, being part of the Consolidated Broken Hill Mining Lease providing a visible backdrop and constant landmark reference from any point in town. 

Take care one all and remember he who has the most birthdays lives the longest.


Week 35 - Broken Hill - Wilcannia - Cobar - Bourke - Cunnamulla - Charleville

2019-12-09 to 2019-12-15

This has been a quiet week as we make our way home, north through New South Wales into Queensland. It has been very hot (40°C+) each day which is leaving us a little concerned about settling back into Central Queensland for summer. 

We left Broken Hill Monday. As we were driving out of Broken Hill I remembered something I meant to include in last week’s blog. The Titanic Memorial. Yes, a monument which commemorates the bandsmen of the passenger ship "Titanic" who perished when the ship sank in 1912. The eight bandsmen, who will forever remain a part of the Titanic legend, that played as the ship sank. They played music, intending to calm the passengers, for as long as they possibly could and all went down with the ship. All were recognized for their heroism. The band-conscious citizens of Broken Hill were stirred at the bravery of the ship`s bandsmen and launched a public appeal to construct a suitable memorial. A memorial in the shape of a broken mantle, the first memorial erected in Broken Hill was unveiled 23 December 1913I had to share that story.

We arrived in Wilcannia mid afternoon and parked on the banks of the Darling River. It was a very hot day but the river was just a series of muddy water holes, not suitable for swimming, so we decided to only stay overnight. As we had left the car hooked up we left it till late in the afternoon before doing a quick walk around town. Not a lot to see and unfortunately most of the old buildings have been demolished or are in poor repair. Hard to imagine this as a vibrant river port town, back in the day. Only real remaining evidence is the derelict Wilcannia Bridge (1896), now classified by the National Trust. It is a centre–lift construction to allow passage of paddlesteamers that were too high. It could be raised to allow them safe passage. Other old buildings made from local sandstone reflecting the affluence of a thriving town were the Post Office (1880) and the Wilcannia Athenaeum Library (1883) now a Museum. Local information claims the Athenaeum's original committee included Edward Dickens, the son of Charles Dickens. 

Tuesday we relocated to Cobar. It was still hot so once we had set up camp it was straight to the local pool. After a refreshing swim and successfully reducing our core temperatures we started exploring this remote mining town. First stop was Fort Bourke Lookout overlooking Cobar and perched above the 150m New Cobar Open Cut Gold Mine. This mine must have also gone underground with a portal evident at the base of the incline.

Wednesday morning included a trip to the Mining Heritage Park, home of Rick the miner, Newey Reservoir and the Catholic Church. The afternoon was once again spent at the pool but we did also squeeze in a visit to Peak Gold Mine and the Old Reservoir.

Thursday, back on the road ending up, out the back of Bourke. (I have waited years to be able to say that). North Bourke, actually, at Kidman’s camp, home for a couple of days. This waypoint had a pool, two pools in fact and as it was still very hot we made good use of them. When not in the pools we made time to visit the Exhibition Centre, the Wal Mitchell Wharf Precinct, the PV Jandra, a paddlesteamer, currently in dry dock but used during the visitor season. We visited the historic Lock at the Bourke Weir. It was the first to be built on the Murray/ Darling River System. It was built in 1897, the lock measuring 59.5 metres between gates and 11 metres wide. We also visited another lift-up Bridge. This time the North Bourke Bridge opened in August 1883, being the first lift-up bridge in NSW and the first bridge crossing the Darling. Bourke is also the resting place of the 1991 Australian of the year, Eye Surgeon, Professor Fred Hollows. We visited his gravesite under the coolabah trees at the Bourke Historic Cemetery.

Saturday we pushed further north, crossed the border into Queensland just on lunch time and put our clocks back 1 hour to 11 o’clock, putting daylight saving behind us and then waited till we arrived in Cunnamulla to have lunch, one hour later. Cunnamulla a very quiet little town particularly on a Saturday. Every thing shut down at lunch time and being very hot no one out and about. We sat in the air conditioned van till 3 o’clock before heading out to find the local attractions. Apparently there are not many. We did find the Cunnamulla Fella and the Robber’s Tree. The Warrego River was flowing and surprisingly high but very muddy. Must have had some rain upstream recently. Anyway only 3:30pm and still uncomfortably hot so we made a dash to the town pool. What an oasis. 

Sunday morning I got up at 3:30am to witness the Geminid meteor shower. Although in the middle of nowhere it was still a very bright night and although I saw a few shooting stars I did not witness the vivid lightshow I was expecting. Perhaps next year as it is an annual phenomenon. After breakfast, we hitched up the van and travelled north along the Mitchell Highway, now known as the Matilda Way making our way to Charleville. Last time Joan and I travelled on this stretch of road was back in September(?) 1976, with Doug, driving from Katherine to Sydney trying to beat the the wet season. It was raining at the time, and the road was unsealed in those days (red dust). Somehow we got through, just on dusk.

It is great to be back in Queensland, but have to admit did not miss the roads. This morning I cannot deny we were traveling on a dual bitumen strip of highway but it was more corrugated and bumpy than most of the unsealed gravel roads we encountered in Western Australia. I could really have used a kidney belt, bouncing our way up this road.  Not much fun towing a 3 tonne caravan. Byron Bay is the only other location, that I know, in Australia that has worse road surfaces than Queensland. 

Anyway booked into the Cobb & Co van park in Charleville. After lunch had a quick look around but it was too hot, a Sunday and the off season. Most things are closed till March 2020. We will definitely come back here June/July sometime in the near future. Both the Darling and Warrego Rivers along with Bourke, Charleville and surrounding areas look to have a lot to offer. 

This time next week, we should be in Middlemount with the kids. Take care and if travelling over Christmas take care and enjoy time with families and friends.

PS. Michael, was great to receive your end of year catch up. I will respond early in the new year. Merry Christmas and embrace the boisterous mayhem of family gatherings. 


Weeks 36 through 40 - Charleville - Mitchell - Middlemount - Home

2019-12-16 to 2020-01-08

Monday morning, 16th December, we left the Cobb & Co Caravan Park, Charleville, heading east towards Mitchell. About 10 kilometres along the Warrego Highway we were enticed by a roadside sign (photo of a deep blue rock pool) to turn off the highway to visit Rock Pool. Not only was the rock pool almost empty and stagnant but the access road was very rough and littered with sharp protruding rocky ground. We turned the car and van around and headed back to the highway. Having not taken the time to reduce tyre pressures we were punished with one torn rear passenger-side car tyre. It cost us about 2 hours and $289, to change the tyre, retrace our tracks back to Charleville, purchase a new spare and once again set off for Mitchell.

This time, an incident free run had us arriving in Mitchell just after lunch. The caretaker mangers upgraded us to a shady site complete with en-suite. Twenty minutes later we were soaking in the Mitchell Artesian Spa. It was extremely hot during our stay there but we enjoyed Mitchell, particularly the spa, and ended up staying three nights. When not soaking in the spa we retreated to the air conditioned van. Thursday we drove through Roma, then heading north to overnight in Rolleston.

Friday morning a quick dash to Emerald, where we caught up with Nikki doing her last minute Christmas shopping and gift buying. We also had to complete our Christmas shopping and restock the fridge and pantry for Christmas before we drove to Middlemount, setting our van up in Nikki’s front yard. This was home for the next couple of weeks.

We had a lovely Christmas with both our girls and their families. Joan had an extra special Christmas, with the girls presenting her with a blue heeler puppy. He has been named Rex and has settled in very well and is already displaying the potential to be a good dog.  We all had Christmas Day at Kathy’s, New Years Eve at the Middlemount Golf Club, but didn’t make it through to midnight. January 3rd we relocated the van to Kathy’s for five nights. Wednesday 8th January we returned the van back to base at Bouldercombe; our Adventure before Dementia Australian Lap is now officially completed.

What an experience. Lots of memories, photos and completed in just under five years, as planned. Not sure what the next phase has in store for us but we will use 2020 to liquidate the van, regroup and plan the next adventure.

The following is a summary of the metrics for the WA leg. I will complete this chapter of our retirement with one more blog providing the final metrics, findings and memories of our entire Adventure before Dementia Tour, 19th May 2015 - 8th January 2020.

Metrics for the WA leg of the Adventure before Dementia Tour, are as follows:

Away from home = 269 days

Number of waypoints = 91 places

Total kilometres travelled = 26,351 km

Kilometres towing van = 16,816 km. (64% of klm travelled)

Amount of diesel consumed = 4,056.9 ltr

Cost of diesel consumed = $6,387.66

Average cost of diesel/ltr = 157.5 cpl 

Average fuel consumption = 15.67 ltr/100km 

Best ltr/100 km = 10.04 ltr

Highest ltr/100km = 19.34 ltr.

Nights Free/Low Cost Camping = 97 nights (36%)

Nights in Caravan Parks = 172 nights (64%)

Number of flat tyres = 2, 1 car tyre & 1 caravan tyre. 

Additional summary data on route and places visited can be found on the following link https://WA Tour 2019


2020 Shake Down tour - Week 1

2020-10-14 to 2020-10-20

Rockhampton - Comet - Alpha - Barcaldine - Lake Dunn. 

2020 was to be our European year. Joan was going to do a six week girls trip to Paris and the UK, then I was going to met up with her and spend six months based somewhere on the coast of Portugal living the good life of beach, vino and exploring the Portugal countryside. Like the rest of the world, our plans were put on hold, thanks to Covid-19, instead we self-isolated in Bouldercombe. 

Things were not too bad in Bouldy; central Queensland got off a lot lighter than many other parts of Australia and the world. We got a lot done around the house and knocked a few items off the to do list. 

A few weeks back we picked up a 16’ Phoenix off road van, locally. A very compact van compared to our previous one but functional, agile and extremely well built. Designed to bounce over corrugations and go to lots of places unthinkable with the Atlantic. The other advantage is it is already set up for totally off grid. Solar panels, deep cycle batteries, 3-way fridge and satellite dish. We got it home, loaded it up and hit the road. We are currently north of Aramac at Lake Dunn having left home last Wednesday.  This will not be a long trip. It’s only going to be about three weeks being ‘a shakedown trip’ to put the van through its paces, to make sure everything works and does what it supposed to do. We are also travelling for the first time with a dog, so it is also a test on how this pans out. Is it doable or just not worth it? We expect to do about a 2000 km loop around Central Queensland. On the first night we camped on the banks of the Mackenzie River just out of Comet, being only a couple of hours from home. We have passed through and visited Comet many times with the horses but never camped on the banks of the Mackenzie River. It was a brilliant campsite. A beautiful stretch of river, a good swimming hole and we had the place all to ourselves. Also perfect for Rex’s (Joan’s dog) first night away. He was perfect. Settled in under the van, did not bark or disturb us at all that night.

Thursday we moved onto Alpha and decided to put Rex to the test in a caravan park. Once again he settled in under the van and was no problem. Granted not too many people about but some. Friday morning we checked out the highlights of Alpha; some petrified wood and a number of murals. In the afternoon we moved further west, pulling up in Barcaldine, staying at another park. This time at the Barcaldine Tourist Park, owned by Richie and Helen Thomlson, ex- Middlemount and friends of Kathy. A great park, with grassy sites and clean amenities. More vans and people, however Rex was still well behaved and still surprising us.

Sunday we broke camp and headed north to Amarac, then continued onto Lake Dunn. The lake is very low at present but still a nice place. Camp sites ($15), have power, water and a brick amenities building with showers. The main attraction here, other than the water is the Sculpture Trail, nearly 40 Australian themed sculptures scattered around a mainly unsealed 205 kilometre circular road trip. This is the work and brainchild of a local women Milynda Rogers, also known as Scrapmetalshelia, who uses scrap metal and barbed wire as her medium, creating life like, enduring pieces of art that ages gracefully in this dry harsh climate. Other attractions on the trail are; Gray Rock, a stopping point for Cobb and Co in the 1870’s, Horsetailer’s Gorge and also the White Station Healing Circle, a stone healing circle used for prayer, meditation and healing of the mind, body and soul.

Tomorrow we plan to break camp and head for Muttaburra, dinosaur country and some more Milynda Roger statues.


2020 Shake Down tour - Week 2

2020-10-21 to 2020-10-27

Muttaburra - Torrens Creek - Charters Towers - Townsville. 

Wednesday morning we had a relaxed morning, packed up camp and hit the road for Muttaburra. It was an easy drive and we found the last Milynda Roger, Amarac, statue on the road out of Aramac heading towards Muttaburra. It was a big red Roo that we were unable to locate the previous day. Muttaburra is a nice little community,  very dry at present but an excellent caravan park and streets littered with lots of local public art and statues.

The tidy and functional CP had power, water and amenities, all for $15/night and a current generous promotion; pay for 2 nights, stay for 5. After lunch we headed out to the Broadwater, a section of the Thomson River, with the expectation of locating a swimming hole. We found water but it  was chocolate coloured and not very appealing. Abandoning this plan we did the drive around town checking out the local art work. Was surprised to find out Muttaburra is the geographical centre of Queensland. Strictly speaking the datum peg is 17 kilometres NW of the town. The town is also part of the Dinosaur Trail, with a replica Muttaburrasaurus Langdoni statue in Bruford Street. It was Doug Langdon that uncovered the fossilised skeleton of the dinosaur. We also did a short drive out of town to the Union Camp and Union Hole, location of an 1891 campsite for 400 striking shearers.

Thursday morning we broke camp and headed north for Torrens Creek, making camp behind the Torrens Creek Exchange Hotel. Torrens Creek is a rail stop with a hotel/garage and only a handfull of houses. For us it was only a waypoint on our way to Charters Towers. It was however a good powered campsite in the shade of a massive mango tree, clean amenities and a friendly pub with cold beer and good pub grub. An enjoyable evening.

Friday we made our way to Charters Towers, familiar territory and checked into the Outback Oasis, a park we had stayed at in 2017. We choose this one because it has a great pool and the past few days have been 38°C plus. We just wanted to relax in some cool water. We ended up with a great site at the back of the park and certainly made good use of the pool during our stay.

Saturday, we ventured out to the weir, just north of the town on the Burdekin River. Rex certainly appreciated the swim. Sunday we visited Towers Hill Lookout as well as the Pyrites Works ruins and the WWII Bunkers historical site. Monday was another lazy day around the pool, finding time to do some washing and chores around the van. Each evening it threatened to storm but we received nothing, turning away before getting to us, resulting  in just some wind and short lived passing showers. 

Rex has continued to surprise us, settling into the nomadic life. He has adopted the space under the van as his domain and is not bothered by passing traffic, human and other dogs unless they venture to close to our real estate. Having a dog on the road is a big responsibility and really influences every decision and activity we undertake, including waking time and where we can go and for how long. There are some positives and enjoyable moments in having Rex along for the ride but doubtful he will continue to travel with us because of the disciplines and restrictions having him imposes on us.

Tuesday we packed up and broke camp by 10:00 o’clock, arriving in Townsville in time for lunch. Excited to be in Townsville, as we caught up with friends Doug and Lyn. Last time we spent time with them was exactly a year ago; having travelled with them October and early November 2019 from Bunbury to Albany in Western Australia. We caught up over drinks and dinner. For us, catching up with old friends is one the many pluses of being on the road. We will stay in Townsville a couple of days before starting the homeward journey down the coast to Bouldercombe.

Until next time , stay happy and safe.


2020 Shake Down tour - Week 3

2020-10-28 to 2020-11-04

Townsville - Hydeaway Bay - Cape Palmerston - Home. 

Wednesday, our last day in Townsville. Started the day by taking Rex to an off leash dog park, then did a run around the shops; Bunnings, Supercheap Auto’s, Anaconda, RTM and Clark Rubber picking up odds & sods for the van. Nothing expensive just spares and consumables for an ageing van. We also did a grocery shop and a Dan Murphy’s run before having a look around Townsville CBD and lunching on fish and chips at Peace, Love & Sandy Feet on the Strand. After lunch we visited the various lookouts on Castle Hill, overlooking Townsville and the Coral Sea. It was warming up so did not stay too long and found our way back to base camp by 3 o’clock and straight into the pool.

Arriving back at the van after our swim, we experienced the first real issue this trip. The van door would not unlock and we could not open the door. We were locked out. A lot of jiggling with the key assisted by the persuasion of a screw driver, eventually released it. We avoided any damage to the door and having to engage the services of a locksmith but it was obvious the whole mechanism needed to be replaced. Fortunately there was a Caravan Service Centre nearby. It did take a bit of fiddling and a YouTube internet search but did eventually get the Camec 3 point lock and door handle installed and functioning correctly. Wednesday evening, a much deserved beer and catch up with Doug and Lyn.

Thursday morning we packed up and made our way to Hydeaway Bay and neighbouring Dingo Beach. What a perfect waypoint. A brilliant caravan park and although a ten minute walk to the beach, absolutely stunning and a great swimming spot. Hydeaway Bay was dog friendly (leash free), Dingo Beach was not as dog friendly (must be on a leash) but much better foreshore and swimming conditions. The Dingo Beach Hotel looked inviting and offered a good reasonably priced menu but we didn’t get to experience it because of their no dogs allowed policy. Regardless had a brilliant three days swimming and relaxing. Left Sunday morning totally relaxed and feeling really pleased with ourselves for calling into Hydeaway Bay. 

Sunday afternoon found us arriving at Cape Palmerston Holiday Park. First impressions had us feeling this place may be even better than the last place, which would make it more than perfect. Large green grassed sites, guided onto our site, very clean and modern amenities and infrastructure, and closer to the beach. 

Monday we swam on the high tide. The water was clear, clean and surprisingly warm. We ended the day by returning to the beach for sundowners. Once again a perfect end to a perfect day. Tuesday was a little windy but still a good day, ended once again with sundowners on the beach. We will definitely return to Cape Palmerston. 

Up early Wednesday, packed up and on the homeward journey by  9 am. Driving home reflecting on Rex, I had to admit he surpassed all my expectations. In fact he hardly put a foot wrong the entire trip. He was well behaved, slept under the van, did not bark and generally just enjoyed the experience. It had me pondering how he processed all this. We put him in the BT50, he goes to sleep and when he wakes up, we are in a different location, new sights, new smells, new people, new water to swim in. Only constant being Joan and I, the caravan and his bed. With this phenomenon happening every few days I wonder what he makes of it. Guess he will be in for a real shock when we get home. Unfortunately for him we probably will not be taking him on future trips. Although perfectly behaved, travelling with Rex is a big commitment, imposes too many restrictions and requires a discipline that conflicts with the freedom and flexibility normally associated with caravanning. I can appreciate the joy and fun of sharing your experiences with a dog on the road, but still cannot comprehend how people do it full time.

The van also exceeded our expectations. The handling, the layout, the storage capability, the equipment (Annex, HWS, Fridge, Shower, Satellite Dish, Portia Potty, Stove and Bar-b-que) all passed muster. I have a small list of minor repairs and improvements to make, but overall very pleased and excited with the van. 

We arrived home just on lunch time, unpacked the van in time to watch a good but disappointing State of Origin. The Maroons once again deprived NSW of a win. The battle continues. 

Reflecting on the past three weeks I am constantly amazed what Central Queensland has to offer. Travelling in our own back yard, we were treated with beautiful river camps, history, dinosaurs, camping lakeside, many public sculptures, incredible beaches, excellent caravan sites and both outback and coastal landscapes. We arrived home, totally relaxed and refreshed. It truely felt more like a holiday than a touring caravan shake down trip.

Trip metrics

Away from home = 21 days

Number of waypoints = 10

Total kilometres travelled = 2,986 klm

Kilometres towing van = 2176 klm ( 73 % of klm travelled)

Amount of diesel consumed =  479.4 ltr

Cost of diesel consumed = $577.00

Average cost of diesel/ltr =  121 cpl 

Average fuel consumption = 16.06 ltr/100klm

Best ltr/100 km = 15.24 ltr/100klm

Highest ltr/100km =  17.05 Ltd/100klm.

Until next time, as always, stay safe and happy.


Back on the road - 2021 NT Tour - Week 1

2021-03-17 to 2021-03-28

We are back on the road and currently at Winton. We left home almost 2 weeks ago after a series of stop starts but now slowly progressing westward. Lyn and Doug, our friends that are housesitting for us this time round, turned up Thursday 11 March and brought some much needed rain with them. In fact it literally started raining the moment they pulled up. Very fortunate as after such a dry spell we were almost out of water and were debating if we should buy water for Doug and Lyn. Thankfully the rain started with their arrival and continued over the coming days providing a total of just on 120 mil in that first week. The plan was a two day handover and then hit the road on Sunday, however with the rain and us agreeing to pick Kathy‘s car up from the panel beaters and drive it out to Middlemount on our way out we pushed our departure date back to Tuesday. That decision also gave us an opportunity to watch one last rugby union game of Billy’s. He was playing on the Monday night.  I have to say it was one of the most enjoyable schoolboy football games I’ve watched in awhile. It had everything; a seesawing scoreboard, a penalty try, another penalty in TCC‘s favour just before full time, fortunately as the score was 17 all at that point in time; with 30 seconds left on the clock they scored and ultimately converted the try to take the win. Unfortunately for Bill he suffered a mild concussion in the dying moments of the game which meant a trip to the hospital in an ambulance and observation for a couple of hours and definitely no school on Tuesday, resulting in him staying at our place Monday night, recuperating Tuesday and we dropped him back at TCC late that Tuesday afternoon.

So it was Wednesday before we eventually hooked the van up and headed off. Joan drove Kathy‘s car out and I drove our car and van for the very familiar 300 km trip to May Downs. We had planned to depart on the Monday, but due to some rain over the weekend the access road was a bit dodgy so we ended up staying and eventually leaving on the Tuesday calling into Middlemount. After calling on Nikki we checked out the 40 year Middlemount Celebration Murals spray painted on the western wall of Shopping Centre. A very impressive and comprehensive historical collage of Middlemount and it’s people. After lunch we headed to Emerald where we camped that night, giving us the opportunity to fuel up and do a final shopping, before officially starting our trek west.

Wednesday  we made the 416 km trek westward to Longreach pulling up at the tourist park just across the road from the Qantas Founders Museum. We were quite excited to be in Longreach this time, as although we’ve passed through here many times in the past it’s always been in the dry season and the Thompson River has always been just a dry riverbed. With the recent rains however the Thompson River was flowing and it looked like we would finally get to experience a sunset river cruise. Unfortunately this was not to be, as the weir developed a hole in it, causing the river current to increase and it was deemed unsafe to operate the boat so although we had booked a sunset cruise and dinner it wasn’t to happen this time round.  We did however still enjoy our stay in Longreach. I got to do the 2.5 hour guided tour of the Qantas Founders Museum. The larger planes are situated under a purpose built garage, called the birdcage to help preserve the Qantas big birds. The older historic planes are housed in the original Qantas hangar annexed to the museum. The other enjoyable part of the tour was I was reacquainted with seat 1A, in first class, and seat 12A, in the upstairs business class on the 747. Between 2007 and 2014 I spent hundreds of hours flying in the 747 between Sydney - Johannesburg and Sydney - North America plus one very enjoyable trip in business class from Sydney to London. On that trip we actually got to come home on the A380 business class. That was a real bonus. Have to confess 95% of the time I travelled it was business class, at my employer’s expense, but I really did enjoy and savour the occasional upgrade to 1st Class. No such perks now unemployed and retired. If we do ever get to fly again it will have to to be the infamous and dreaded zoo class.

Other highlights of Longreach was a meal at the Birdcage Hotel. Nice enough pub but only average meals. We also had had an enjoyable lunch at the Stockman‘s Hall of Fame. It is currently being refurbished. No big deal as we have been through there a number of times. We did however watched a film on the Australian Stockmen and their stock horses in the Theatrette.  The temperature in Longreach was very similar to that in Rockhampton, so certainly enjoyed swimming in the pool at the van park. Like Rockhampton, Longreach sits on the Tropic of Capricorn. The main difference this time round was the whole area is very green unlike Rockhampton which was still brown though was turning green as we left. 

On Saturday we broke camp and drove 179 km further west onto Winton. We’re planning to spend a few days here. Saturday afternoon we did the norm, a drive around town, went to the information centre to discover there is a fair bit to do in this area, so next week we will be visiting the Waltzing Matilda Centre, will go to the Age of Dinosaurs Museum, visit some local waterholes around town and some other points of interest that I’ll share with you in the next blog.

I’ve also attached a copy of our proposed trip this time around. It will give you a general idea of where we’re heading. Note the campsites are only there to plot the route. We normally select our campsites on the run. The gist of the tour is basically we are heading due west to Alice Springs turn right go due north to Katherine and Darwin, calling in on family and friends along the way. Then to  Litchfield NP before doing a loop around Kakadu then back down to Daily Waters to head due east across to Cairns where we will catch up with our friends Maurice and Sandra before running down the east coast to home. Certainly some isolated country and hopefully interesting landscapes, rivers and waterfalls along the way.

Until next time stay safe, stay happy and make the most of each day.


2021 NT Tour - Week 2 - Western Queensland

2021-03-28 to 2021-04-04

Have passed through Winton a number of times, but have never stayed more than a night. This time we stayed four nights and really glad we did. Sunday we visited the Waltzing Matilda Centre. An impressive building, claiming to be the first museum in the world dedicated to a song - Waltzing Matilda written and publicity performed in Winton, in 1895 by Andrew Barton (Banjo) Paterson. We spent about 3 hours working our way through the displays and outdoor museum. In reality only about 10% of the real estate is dedicated to the song and it’s author. The remainder is a history lesson on the Winton shire, along with local First Nations, the wool industry, Q.A.N.T.A.S. and the emerging dinosaur tourist industry.

Monday, we travelled 23 kilometres out of town to visit the Australian Age of Dinosaurs site located on the Jump-Up east of Winton. Definitely would recommend calling in here if passing through Winton. A well presented tour spread over 3 hours including the Fossil Preparation Laboratory, Collection and Skeletal Hologram Room, where the fossil are assembled into skeletal structures and the Dinosaur Canyon, consisting of Death in the Billabong exhibit, Valley of the Cycads exhibit, Pterodactylus exhibit, Dinosaur Stampede exhibit and the Kunbarrasaurus exhibit. The staff are professional, knowledgeable and friendly. The site is abundant with dinosaur statues, stunning architecture, informative interactive boards and real dinosaur fossils. Current works and future plans are going to make this place even better in the near future. The site has also recently been declared Australia’s first International Dark-Sky Sanctuary for those interested in stargazing.

Tuesday morning we visited the Bladensburg NP, south of Winton following the Route of the River Gum. An easy drive with a number points of interest and swimming holes. First stop was at the 1894 Shearer’s Strike Memorial. Next stop was a horse-shoe-shaped waterhole named Engine Hole. Next stop was Skull Hole, where I slipped over in the mud. Amused Joan no end that I had to strip off, wash myself and my clothes and then stroll around the rocky outcrop naked until all was dry. From here it was onto Bough Shed Hole, another waterhole and camping spot, crossing Surprise Creek at Top Crossing and visiting Richard Cragg’s grave before circling back to Winton.

Other items of interest around Winton that we visited included the Musical Fence, the Qantas Landing Strip Cairn, the outdoor picture show which reminded us of POPS - Polly’s Outdoor Picture Show, in Middlemount. We also visited Arno’s Wall (don’t know why it is there or why we visited), the Winton Club, the Long Waterhole just out of town and also enjoyed a great lunch at the Tattersall Hotel. 

Wednesday morning after 4 days in Winton we broke camp. Just out of Winton we turned onto the Kennedy Development Road and headed for Boulia. It turned out to be an enjoyable 363 kilometre drive pulling up mid afternoon to camp on the banks of the Burke River, at Boulia. We took our time and had a number of stops along the way. The changing vista was incredible. Many rocky outcrops and constantly alternating Mitchell grasslands and desolate gravel like wasteland. There was some evidence of recent rains but mainly dry. Cawnpore Lookout was impressive providing a panoramic view of the magnificent Lillyvale Hills. Middleton still looked rundown and depressing. The Hamilton Hotel is no longer there, just ruins and a chimney. The road has definitely improved since the last time we drove this route, back in 1977 in an overloaded brightly coloured VW combi van.

Boulia was a surprise and not the rundown dusty town we remembered. Now a modern clean town with a modern Sports and Aquatic Centre, a Spar grocery store and the Min Min Ecounter. Thursday we did visit the Min Min Encounter and found it to be a unique theatrical experience incorporating animatronics, fibre optics and loads of other high tech wizardry. The encounter is a tribute to the long honoured art of the bush yarn, all based around the famed Min Min Light phenomenon, running through the various hypotheses and local experiences. Friday (Good Friday) we took a run 24 kilometres north of town to Police  Barricks waterhole for a swim and picnic lunch. That night we went to the Boulia Rodeo, part of their Easter weekend comprising Campdrafting, Easter Races and Rodeo. The bronc riding was entertaining but unfortunately the bulls were too good for the local and visiting cowboys ensuring no-one achieved 8 seconds or secured the jackpot purse.

Saturday we had planned to head along the Donohue Highway to the NT Border and then travel the Plenty Highway, running alongside the Simpson Desert, over 3 days to Alice Springs, 803 kilometres in total, encompassing about 600 kilometres of unsealed road. The Donohue Hwy was open with caution but there was still water over the Plenty, so it was closed. We decided to abandon this plan and proceed to Mt Isa and cross into the NT via the Barkly Highway, a safe, sealed, boring unexcitable drive. Concern was if we waited for the other road to open it may still be soft in places and more than likely some washouts, lots of tyre ruts increasing the risk of tramlining and damage to the car and van.

So Saturday, we travelled the 300 kilometres north to Mount Isa, stopping at Djarra for lunch. We have history here. Memories of a broken down VW, getting a push start and running out of fuel. Glad to report it is now a neat little town with clean amenities and a camping area.

Today, Sunday, we are having a lazy day around the pool and completing this blog. Happy Easter everyone.

PS. Lost a mate on Wednesday. RIP Sharpie. My shout next time we meet.


2021 NT Tour - Week 3 - into the NT

2021-04-05 to 2021-04-11

Been a quiet week but still an enjoyable one. If anything it has been a repetitive one having travelled from Mount Isa in Queensland to Mataranka in the Northern Territory. Most days have followed the same pattern, involving breaking camp about 10 am, travelling a couple of hours before pulling up at the next stop. Once the camp has been set up, we have located a pool to chill out in for a couple of hours, getting home in time for early showers followed by happy hour. After dinner, sleep and then repeat process the next day. So the week in summary is as follows:

Monday. we were in Mt Isa, Easter Monday and my birthday. A very relaxing day around the pool at the caravan park and then a very enjoyable happy hour and meal at the Buff Club.

Tuesday, out of the Van Park by 10am and off to Woolworths before heading off to Camooweal, arriving just after lunch. We set up camp and then spent the rest of the afternoon in the pool, followed by happy hour, dinner and bed.

Wednesday, we stopped at the NT border and was surprised there was no welcome to the NT sign, but rather just a ‘Welcome to the Barkly Region’ sign. Not sure what’s going on here but I’m sure the NT government will rectify it in due course. The first time we have crossed a State border without capturing a happy snap. We arrived at the Barkly Homestead mid-afternoon, quickly setting up camp and then located the pool and spent the next couple of hours soaking in the cool water. We enjoyed happy hour and dinner that night in the the Homestead Bar. I had a humongous hamburger and Joan have an equally large steak sandwich.

Thursday, we continued west along the Barkly Highway, filling up with fuel at Three Ways before turning north up the Stuart Highway pulling up at Banka Banka Station. You know the drill, set up, lunch, then find the pool. This time it was a rock pool located just over 2 km walking distance from the campground. We set off in the heat of the day to be rewarded with an absolutely beautiful rock faced pool all to ourselves for over an hour. Other people started turning up about 4 o’clock so we decided it was time to head back home in time for happy hour.  Banka Banka turned out to be a very interesting stop with a restored mud brick cottage and little museum attached. We certainly recommend this waypoint.

Friday, a short stint up the Stuart Highway, a short stop at Newcastle Waters and then Larrimah (I lived and worked here for a short time in 1976) and then we pulled up at Daily Waters Pub, just on lunch time. What a little gem this place is; large grassy campsites, a short stroll to the pub boasting two pools. Very impressive. Had a short nap after our swim before returning to the pub for happy hour. The pub is a very quirky outback country pub. The walls and ceilings are lined with underwear, hats, drivers licenses, international currency, tee shirts, photos and business cards.  Across the road from the pub there’s a motorbike and car museum. An impressive collection of Indian motor bikes, Holden cars and VW’s along with much more memorabilia. Next door in the front yard of a house there is a live crocodile named Kevin. All in all, a fantastic waypoint, great pub, great campground and great amenities.

Saturday we made the short trip, 180 kilometres, up the Stuart highway to Bitter Springs at Mataranka. We have stayed here before and were eagerly looking forward to revisiting the thermal waters at the spring. The spring was a little disappointing in so much it was recently flooded so there’s still a lot of dead matter and scum being washed through the stream. The water was still crystal clear, but it was a little off putting with the amount of flotsam and dead plant matter that was floating on the surface and being carried along by the current. It was still an enjoyable swim and we still plan to  stay a number of days however will probably spend more time at the Mataranka Homestead Spring rather than Bitter Springs. Saturday night was also something different, and enjoyable. Although 2,900 km from home we got to interact with our friends Doug and Lyn currently housesitting our place. This pair introduced us to Saturday Night Jukebox, hosted by Warwick Manning through Paradise FM in Ballina, NSW. We rang Warwick and dedicated a couple of songs and a shout out to Doug and Lyn. They responded immediately so we knew they were listening. A very enjoyable evening, both listening to the same music although in different states, all that distance apart.

Sunday morning was dedicated to domestic chores, Joan cleaning the interior of the van and doing the washing. I attended to a few outdoor things and penned this blog. In the afternoon we ventured across to the Homestead and had an enjoyable extended swim in the Thermal Pool. It was much cleaner than Bitter Springs, though a lot more crowded.

Until next week, stay happy and safe.


2021 NT Tour - Week 4 - Katherine

2021-04-12 to 2021-04-18

This week has been a week of extremes. A combination of old home week, catching up with family and friends, balanced out by many hours just soaking in thermal springs. We started the week in Mataranka relocated to Katherine on Tuesday and we are still here.

Monday being our last day in Mataranka we overdosed on the thermal springs. We spent the morning at Bitter Springs and the afternoon at the Mataranka Homestead Springs. Very relaxing days snorkelling, treading water and enjoying the therapeutic benefits of the mineral waters.

Tuesday we packed up but couldn’t leave Mataranka without one last swim, so back to the Homestead for a good hour or so enjoying one last swim before saying goodbye to one of the many favourite spots we have in the territory. An hour later we pulled up at the Katherine Information Centre for a spot of lunch before catching up with Lis & Ian and the family at the bike shop. From there we ventured out to Florina Road and set up camp at Lis & Ian‘s property. Tuesday evening was time to catch up and do what families do, enjoyed a meal and filled in the gaps since the last time we gathered. 

Wednesday morning we were straight into town to the thermal pools behind Riverview Caravan Park for a couple of hours.  The council has done a lot of work here since we last swam in the spring, back in 1978. Now there is paved walkways, stairs,  platforms and stoned lined pools with both steps and wheelchair entry. After our swim we met up with Browyn and had lunch at one of the many pop-up cafe coffee outlets that are now dotted around Katherine. The remainder of the day was spent napping and doing domestic duties back at camp.

Thursday was a mixed bag and I spent the morning doing some maintenance on the van. That afternoon, there was a memorial service and scattering of ashes of an old friend, Ted Sharpe. Ted was 84 years of age, having spent the last 50 years in Katherine. He had died on 31 March. I had known Ted since 1976 and last caught up with him back in 2019, last time we passed through Katherine. I had every intention of catching up with him this time round, as well. Unfortunately it was not to be. Thursday afternoon a group of his local friends, his nephew Andrew, from Sydney, as well as Joan and I gathered at the Katherine race club to scatter his ashes at the finishing line. Ted certainly enjoyed a beer and a wager. It was only a short ceremony but we certainly enjoyed a beer with his mates and sharing stories of Ted’s life. I was honoured to be able to speak at the service and share some insights into our friendship during the seventies and spasmodic catch ups over the years. RIP Ted, my friend. Footnote.  Ted would have turned 85, the very next day, 16 April. Thursday evening we celebrated Ian’s 68th birthday at Kumbidgee restaurant, out on the Gorge Road. It was a great meal and family celebration.

Friday found us back soaking in the spring water, followed by a catch-up with Phyllis to thank her again for supporting Sharpie, in his time of need. It was a great catchup and chat. After lunch at the Katherine Club we retreated back to the van for afternoon naps. Have to admit we are still struggling with the heat and the events of the past few days had caught up with us.

Saturday, after a great sleep we had a very rewarding day. Started the day at a ‘Big morning Tea’ and charity auction at New Haven. From here we ventured out to Katherine Gorge to see the changes and additional infrastructure out there. Shame you cannot swim in this iconic landscape anymore, because of the crocs. This wasn’t the case back in the 70’s. The mistakes of our generation have certainly deprived not only ours but future generations of basic rights and enjoyment. We did however enjoy a very scrumptious lunch at the Gorge Cafe, before heading back into town for some culture. One of Joan’s classmates, Kim Scott had a solo exhibition as part of the Godinymayin Yijard Rivers Art & Culture Centre, K Space Program. Kim’s exhibition was titled - My Childhood 1961 - 1974.

Sunday was a family day, cumulating with a bar-b-que at Samantha’s place, Joan’s niece. We had a scrumptious meal of smoked chicken and lamb along with an array of side dishes. Spending an evening with Lis, Ian Samantha, Jay and their family was a perfect ending to our Katherine week. Tomorrow we head further north.


2021 NT Tour - Week 5 - Litchfield NP

2021-04-19 to 2021-04-25

Lest we forget. Today is Sunday, Anzac Day 25th of April and as we are staying in Batchelor we took the opportunity to go to the dawn service at Adelaide River. Adelaide River war cemetery is dedicated to the servicemen and women who lost their lives on Australian soil defending Darwin during World War II. It was a privilege to attend this dawn service with the additional significance of being surrounded by the 435 souls who made the ultimate sacrifice in defending our freedom. It was a well attended service with the NT Memorial facing north and the dawn illuminating the eastern horizon.

Monday morning we said goodbye to Lis and Ian and headed further north. Edith Falls was still flooded due the exceptional wet season and was closed to swimming, so we passed by the turn off and after a short nostalgic stop in Pine Creek proceeded to the Douglas Daly. We camped at the Douglas Daly Tourist Park. We virtually had the place to ourselves. Large grassy sites and a pub and restaurant on site. We were saddened to learn that the Douglas Hot Springs were not open. Unfortunately it was not due to the wet season or a Covid related failed business but regrettably another Australian iconic site has been given to a minority group at the expense of the majority. Not sure when or if ever the springs will reopen but locals advised it is closed due to mismanagement and lack of maintenance, further exasperated by the elders living in Darwin, not on site. With the springs closed and crocodiles in the Douglas River swimming was off the agenda. We explored the district, visited the Arches and swam in the park pool. It was the perfect couple of days after the hectic and roller coaster week of emotions in Katherine. 

Wednesday we made our way to Adelaide River and had a relaxing morning revisiting this old haunt. All the activity at the Adelaide War Cemetery reminded us that ANZAC day was only a few days away and the significance of Adelaide River in the Territory’s and Australia’s war effort and history. We arrived at Litchfield Tourist Park, just after lunch, only a few kilometres from the entrance of Litchfield NP. We settled in had some lunch and then spent the afternoon relaxing in the pool.

Thursday was the start of a series of fun, surprised filled and extraordinary days. First stop of this day was the magnetic termite mounds just inside the Boundry of the National Park. From here we drove 40 km to the Cascades; our first swim in the NP. From here we backtracked to Wangi Falls. Unfortunately closed to swimming due to high water levels and fast currents. We had a picnic lunch here and after taking a zillion photos moved onto Florence Falls. This is a location that one never forgets. The first view of the falls is breathtaking. We had last visited here in 2003 and it was great to get reacquainted with this incredible special place. We swam till late then retired to the van park for one last dip of the day before collapsing into bed.

Friday turned out to be a very special and surprising day. The previous evening I had posted a photo of Joan at Wangi Falls wearing a red hat. Friday morning walking into Buley Rockpools, our peaceful walk was interrupted by someone calling out my name. To my delight it was my childhood friends and neighbours, Kerrie and Julie. Recognising the red hat in front of them they had taken a chance it was us. The rest of the day was just perfect.  We swam at Bluey pools, revisited Florence Falls, then retreated back to Batchelor for a late lunch with the girls. We reconnected, relived memories, played the ‘do you remember’ game, shared some old school photos and promised to stay in touch. A real special day and reconfirmed childhood friends and neighbours are very special BFF’s.

Saturday was the day to explore the remaining attractions at Litchfield. First stop was Tolmer Falls. The falls are impressive, but can only be viewed from a far. It is a place of interest not a swimming opportunity. Not far from here is Greenant Creek. Swimming is not permitted here as it is an Aboriginal sacred site. A shady walk however takes you to Tjaetaba Falls were swimming is permitted at the top of the falls. It is difficult to get a good view of the falls but the small rockpool above the falls is very picturesque. The main attraction being the isolation and tranquility of the place. Mid afternoon it started to get crowded so we scurried home and finished the day in the park pool.

Sunday being Anzac Day we set the alarm for 4:00am and as outlined above drove to Adelaide River for the 5:30am ANZAC Dawn Service. Not only was this a very special occasion but we were further rewarded by running into Peter, Joan’s younger brother, and his family, from Darwin, as we were exiting the venue. We joined them for a traditional gunfire breakfast at the Adelaide River Showgrounds before we ventured out to Robbin Falls with the family for a swim. We lunched with Peter and his family at the Adelaide River Inn for lunch. Having a beer in this old watering hole certainly triggered a flood of memories from 70’s and 80’s. Another excellent day all round.

Our life on the road is certainly enjoyable but not all weeks hit the highs and exhilaration achieved this week. It certainly makes the ordinary weeks worthwhile and is further proof that my continuing desire to explore as well as revisit the past is justified. 

Until next week stay safe and happy.


2021 NT Tour - Week 6 - Darwin

2021-04-26 to 2021-05-02

We started this week In Litchfield National Park. Tuesday we relocated to Acacia Hills on the outskirts of Darwin. Joan’s brother, Peter and his family live here. We spent the week with them interspersed with trips into Darwin and down memory lane. On Sunday after lunch we had a leisurely drive to Humpty Doo and then onto the Bark Hut where we set up camp. This coming week we will commence our adventure through Kakadu National Park. 

The week in short. Monday morning, camped at Litchfield we ventured into Batchelor, to locate a Telstra Air, so that we could complete our social media obligations. After lunch we ventured out to Florence Falls for one last dip; being a public holiday it was very crowded but still enjoyable

Tuesday morning we made our way via, the scenic route, Tumbling Waters and Berry Springs towards Darwin. We had a short break at the Territory Wildlife Park for lunch before proceeding to Acacia Hills to set up camp at Peter’s place. Acacia Hills is approx 50 kilometres south of Darwin. We spent the rest of the week with Peter and his family. As they were working or going to school each day, we entertained ourselves during the day but every evening once they had returned to the roost, we convened for drinks, the ongoing family reunion, a number of incredible and memorable meals, lots of laughter and shared stories. From a family perspective, a perfect week, Darwin however was not as rewarding. From my perspective, too many changes, too crowded and too metropolitan. 

Wednesday morning we made our way into Darwin proper and could not believe the amount of change in the missing years; new roads, high-rise buildings, the waterfront has been totally revamped with a wave machine and swimming beach and coffee shops. I’m sure the locals appreciate these venues but we certainly didn’t recognise downtown Darwin at all. After our walk and drive around we made a dash to Berry Springs as Joan had a hair appointment that afternoon. First we had a very enjoyable lunch at the Berry Springs Tavern before Joan departed for her appointment at the hairdressers whilst I took care of grocery shopping and other mundane chores.

Thursday it was back into town this time out to Casuarina as we needed to spend some time with Telstra to sort out our mobile phones and internet contract. This turned out to be a positive experience so we walked away happy with the negotiation. Thanks Ben. After lunch in the Food Hall we drove past our old house in Wilson Crescent and also checked out some other areas we hadn’t seen since the 1980s. Joan also surprised me with a belated birthday present. Another camera for me to use and abuse. Not sure why but I seem to be hard on cameras.

Friday morning we potted around at Peter’s place. After lunch we decided to revisit some of our favourite haunts from the 70s and early 80s. The first being Berry Springs;  unfortunately this beautiful waterhole and shady park area was closed due to high water levels and fast running water. Onto the second location, Howard Springs; this place has gone under an incredible metamorphism, with the addition of parklands, a fountain and a man-made tiled wading pool. Unfortunately, this location was also closed due to potentially harmful microscopic organisms in the water. Both locations are still very attractive and beautiful but regrettable we didn’t get to swim.

Saturday we learnt that Joan‘s friend Bronwyn was playing bowls at the Darwin Bowls Club, (location of our wedding reception, 1979) so we took another run into Darwin and watched a few ends and had a quick catch up with her. We then ventured back home to Peter’s for the last supper. Maria, Peter and the kids put on an incredible Korean barbecue or what they call a cook up. It was a slow, rowdy, perfect family evening and a great way to end our week in Acacia Hills. We certainly enjoyed some good food this week.

Sunday morning after numerous coffees, family photos,  thank you’s and farewells we got the van hitched up and we took a leisurely drive via Humpty Doo to the Bark Hut.

Until next week as usual please stay safe and happy.


2021 NT Tour - Week 7 - Kakadu NP

2021-05-03 to 2021-05-09

Last Sunday, we ended the week with an enjoyable meal at the Bark Hut. There was a large rowdy crowd along with live music. Cold beer along with pizza made for a great night. Monday morning we travelled 137 km to Jabiru setting up at the Kakadu Lodge Caravan Park. It was a large circular pattern park with large grassy sites and plenty of shady trees. This was complimented with a large pool, bar and bistro facilities in the centre. As per our normal new location protocol, after lunch we went and checked out the information centre. In this case it was the Bowali Visitors Centre, a Parks and Aboriginal cultural centre. Our strategy in coming to Kakadu in May was to beat the hordes of grey nomads and caravans expected from down south after a year long lockdown, thanks to Covid. The risk with this strategy was arriving before the seasonal closures due to the monsoon rains (wet season) had been lifted meaning we may not be able to gain access to some sites. After discussions with the Ranger it was evident that not many places were open just yet so our options over the coming week were limited. To compound the situation, cultural requirements around sorry business and ongoing conflict and disputes between the aboriginal land council and Parks Australia has led to forced closures of some of the more attractive iconic sites and areas throughout the park. The Gunlom Falls area is one location affected, with traditional owners claiming Parks Australia has shown ‘a lack of respect’ for their sacred sites. We knew this area as UDP Falls, the camp site of the Uranium Development & Prospecting Company. It is also the big waterhole from the movie Crocodile Dundee where Mick spears a barramundi and cooks up some bush tucker.

With little to do around the Jabiru area we used Tuesday as a shopping, washing and service day. We also took great advantage of the pool and spent much of the day there. On Wednesday we ventured back towards the Bark Hutt calling in at the Mamukala wetlands before proceeding to the South Alligator boat ramp. Joan was excited to see thousands of mud skippers playing around the waters edge on the boat ramp. Not far from here at a roadside billabong we stopped and watched the antics of a young jabiru bird trying to capture something for lunch. For our lunch, we turned off the Arnhem Highway and headed into the Mary River National Park and found a billabong named Rockhole. A very picturesque and beautiful spot but not suitable for swimming, as most waterholes in the north are now populated by crocodiles. On returning to Jabiru, before venturing into the pool we did do a run up town to check out the Mercure Kakadu Crocodile Hotel. Unfortunately it proved to be disappointing so we returned to the pool for a swim

Thursday with high hopes we headed south down the Kakadu Highway to Cooinda, hoping for better luck in that location. The Cooina Lodge is a resort type accommodation with a caravan park attached, however rather expensive at $59 per night for a powered caravan site. That evening, the highlight of Kakadu so far, was a sunset Cruise on Yellow Waters. It was a two hour river cruise with the boat captain providing a lot of dialogue and information on the local fauna and flora. There was a lot of bird life, but obviously the main attraction were the crocodiles. During the two hours we saw a number of crocodiles even being fortunate enough to witness two male crocodiles have a very short but savage altercation over territory. It was all over in a matter of seconds but something to behold. It is interesting to see the crocodile in its natural habitat. We know Crocodiles are vicious prehistoric killing machines but unlike in zoos or crocodile farms, in the wild they have a graceful almost zen like movement through the the water. However when they decide to slip beneath the surface of the water, out of sight in stealth mode, it becomes very obvious they should be feared and respected as they immediately become invisible deadly hunters. The cruise is designed to finish just on sunset and all of a sudden it obvious why this lagoon is called Yellow Waters - Ngurrungurrudjba.

Friday morning was an early start with a big day planned. It was disappointing to find access to Jim Jim Billabong, Jim Jim Falls and Twin Falls were still closed so the first stop was the aboriginal Rock Art at Barangaroo. This site also has an area described as an ancient Aboriginal Shelter.  The rock art was impressive and well protected under the rock overhangs, though not thought to be that old, as one section details what appears to to be a muscat or a rifle. From here the intent was to make our way to Kubara Pools, a 6 km return hike. It was a good walk in but no reward for our efforts. A picturesque location with a small pool but potentially croc infested and although the water was crystal clear we elected not to swim in it. It was a long hot 3 km walk back to the car. We did however enjoy the swim in the Lodge pool on our return to home base. That evening as compensation for today’s missed opportunities we enjoyed a lovely meal at the Barra Bar & Bistro.  They have quite an interesting menu with a variety of game/road kill on offer, complete with local garnishes as accompaniments. I was very conservative and just had the local grilled barramundi. Joan was equally as conservative and just had fried barramundi and chips. 

Sunday we packed up camp and relocated a further 100 km down the Kakadu Highway to the Mary River Roadhouse. It is located just outside the southern gates of the park. The roadhouse is closed but the adjoining caravan park is still operating. After lunch we ventured back into the NP to try and locate The Rockpool Joan and I camped at with John and Meridith Dawe back in the late 1970’s. We found it. It is not on any maps but has been renamed Moline Rock Pools or Igoymarrwa. Apparently it has some Aboriginal significance but selected tour guides and those in the know can still gain access. It still is 4WD access about 1 km off the highway but unmistakably the place we did visit. There was a bus group there when we arrived, though they left shortly after.  We ended up staying about 1.5 hours but did not have the place to ourselves at all during this time. We had a steady stream of passing tourists all afternoon. A far cry from 40 years ago when we had the whole place to ourselves for an entire weekend, Friday through Sunday. It was great to revisit the location and the memories.

Next week Edith Falls and back to Katherine at some point.  As always stay happy and safe.

Editorial

Kakadu or Kakadon’t?.

The NT Government and NT Tourism are pushing hard on a number of advertising fronts to entice southerners to come north this year and enjoy the NT and spend money to stimulate the economy. I certainly support this strategy, and have spent the past week in Kakadu. Unfortunately I do not recommend visiting Kakadu at this point in time. Kakadu is expensive to visit and right now more of it is closed than opened. I appreciate and accept that seasonal closures are a direct result of the wet season and the NT enjoyed a particularly good wet this year but there are inconsistencies in reopening and guaranteeing the continued availability of some of the major iconic sites, within Kakadu. Parks Australia website states ‘Jim Jim plunge pool is not expected to reopen until Thursday 24 June’. There is no guarantee that Gunlom Falls will open at all. However, tour operators are still running river cruises, planes and helicopters are still providing joy flights. One gets the feeling no one is in a hurry to open Kakadu up, just yet, however Nitmiluk NP (Edith Falls) and Litchfield NP are both up and running, providing access to walks, waterfalls and plunge pools at a much cheaper rate and do not charge an entry fee. Accommodation, fuel, food and alcohol are all at a premium in Kakadu. If coming to the NT before July this year I would reconsider Kakadu and spend my travel dollars in other regions. You will certainly get a bigger bang for your buck. If wanting to see crocodiles there are tour operators outside of Kakadu that can provide this experience. Likewise the swimming and waterfalls at Litchfield and Edith are equivalent to any found in Kakadu.


2021 NT Tour - Week 8 - Edith Falls

2021-05-10 to 2021-05-16

Sunday we had a leisurely pack up at Mary River Roadhouse before completing the short drive to Pine Creek. I have never had issues getting to Pine Creek but historically have had a few issues leaving this great little town. Back in the day, I can remember leaving Katherine heading for Darwin on any given Friday afternoon with Doug and/or others. We would arrive at Pine Creek around dinner time so we would stop for some pub grub and more often than not, wake Saturday morning still in Pine Creek. Sometimes we made it to Darwin Saturday afternoon, other times we succumbed and made a weekend of it vowing to make it to Darwin next time.  Yes, we decided to stay another day. We booked into the Lazy Lizard CP, did some shopping at the Friendly Grocer Store, refuelled, refilled the Engel with beer from the new hotel and swam in their pool. We also enjoyed their hospitality again that night in the beer garden. 

Tuesday morning we relocated to Edith Falls (Nitmiluk NP). Only a short drive, arriving well before lunch. Set up camp, had lunch and spent the rest of the day enjoying our special place, the plunge pool at Edith. There is something soothing and surreal about Edith. The roaring waterfall, the majestic cliffs and the sheer size of the rock pool.

Wednesday morning we were at the Leliyn Trail Head by 8:30am. The plan was to spend the day at Upper Pool. It is only a 1 km trek from the car park to the pools. It is then a further 1.6 km to complete the loop back to the Edith plunge pool. There is a Lookout in both sections providing excellent overviews of the whole area and the opportunity to get some good waterfall photos. The good news was the walk was not as difficult or as rugged as we remembered. Additional infrastructure and track maintenance has taken the edge off it. Even better we had the rock pools almost all to ourselves. We were the only ones in the pool and enjoying the waterfall to ourselves. Wow, it was amazing how quick that changed. An hour later it was like Bondi Beach on Boxing Day. People everywhere. We abandoned our plan and walked back to the plunge pool, had lunch in the shade and then wasted the afternoon away swimming and pitting ourselves against the might of the falls. Joan was better at this game than me. We have been very lucky this trip. The good wet has water levels high at Edith and the waterfalls absolutely thundering over the rock cliffs. Happy hour drifted into a perfect meal and relax under the stars. The absence of incidental light, no moon nor cloud cover, creates a black sky, the perfect conditions to admire the star filled night sky. Edith, can be and really is the perfect location. 

Thursday we set off to walk to Sweetwater Pool, but when at the trailhead we balked at the 8.4km walk and decided it was easier just to swim in the plunge pool. After all it is the same water. Not sure what happened but there were very few swimming and we had the 10-12pm session almost to ourselves. The afternoon was as good as the morning. Lazed around camp till about 2:30pm then another couple of hours in the water until happy hour. 

Friday we weren’t up early, but early enough to catch the sunrise over the escarpment behind the waterfall. After a short walk around the waters edge we had breakfast, packed up camp and made our way to Katherine. We lunched in town, did a shopping and then headed out to Lis and Ian’s to setup camp for the next few days. While positioning the van I clipped a tree breaking the top bracket securing the annex to the van. Could have been disastrous but luckily a few phone calls later I located a second hand bracket from a local, Katherine van repairer. Saturday I spent the day disassembling the annex and replacing the broken components. Dodged a bullet here, could have been a lot more serious and cost us a lot more time, waiting for parts. 

Sunday was a service day doing some more work around the van, washing, doing a shopping list for the next stage of our trip and writing this blog. This evening, we had a family night with Samantha and Jason coming out for a few drinks and a meal.

Tomorrow we head to Mataranka for a few days before turnining onto the Savannah Way for the run across to Hell’s Gate and ultimately Adele’s Grove and Lawn Hill NP.

Footnote: On Monday when we arrived in Pine Creek, we were technically starting our run home, backtracking on roads we had already travelled on this tour. It was also indeed timely as Wednesday 12th May was the 56th day of this tour and the midpoint of our budgeted time, if we are going to be home by 7 July as previously arranged. Coincidentally the van has also travelled 4,026 km, since departing Bouldy on 17 March, of the expected 8,000 km of this tour. In short, sadly, we are halfway through the 2021 NT tour.

Until next week, stay safe and happy.


2021 NT Tour - Week 9 - Mataranka

2021-05-17 to 2021-05-23

Monday morning was crazy. Broke camp by 9:00am and then ran around Katherine till just after midday completing the following:

Thankfully it was only an hour’s drive to Mataranka Homestead, where we quickly set up camp and spent the remainder of the day in the Thermal Pool reacquainting ourselves with the slower pace of being back on the road. That evening we also enjoyed a good meal and a few drinks at Maluka’s bar, all the while being entertained by Repeat Offenders, a bluegrass rock band made up of old rockers from various, now disbanded Australian groups. Lead singer is Stuart Wood(The Giants) guitarist Mark Grieg(Australian Crawl). They having been providing entertainment at the Homestead each dry season for a number of years. In all fairness, we did enjoy their playlist. Nathan ‘Whippy’ Griggs was also on the Billboard but we retired before his whip cracking show.

Tuesday was a relaxing day. We had two sessions in the thermal pool, but visitor numbers are increasing. Mid afternoon I did a run around Mataranka but not much has changed over the years. After dinner we ventured back up to Maluka’s bar for a few drinks and once again to be entertained by Repeat Offenders. We also stayed for Whippy’s show. It was his 28th birthday and he appeared well lubricated. He certainly put on a great show albeit a few bloopers, some additional dialogue and extra tricks. 

Wednesday, in an attempt to avoid the crowds at the Thermal Pool we ventured down at 6:30am. Good news only 2 people when we arrived, however the number of swimmers had swelled to 16 by 8:00am. It was a great swim with some mist rising from the water. The remainder of the morning was a service day in and around the van. After lunch we had another dip in the Thermal Pool before running out to 12 Mile Yards, stopping off at 4 Mile and Mulurark to view the Roper River.

Thursday turned into a ‘We of The Never Never’ day. We headed into Mataranka mid morning and visited the ‘We of The Never Never’ museum. Did a mini shop at the local supermarket and then headed home to catch the midday screening of the 1882 movie ‘We of The Never Never’, which is played daily in the Maluka Bar. The day was completed with a dip in the Thermal Pool. The sheer quantity of people at the pool and number of vans in the park confirms the first wave of southerners have arrived. From here on in, the NT infrastructure is going to be put to the test. Our arrive and depart early strategy  has paid off. Thursday night we returned to the Maluka Bar to support Repeat Offenders and even stayed for another Whippy whip cracking show.

Joan woke early Friday morning resulting in us making our way down to the Thermal Pool, predawn. We actually achieved sole occupancy of the pool for about 15 minutes before sunrise triggered a steady stream of others seeking early morning solace in the soothing warm water. We broke camp midmorning. First stop was Elsey Cemetery to obtain closure on the ‘We of The Never Never’ quest from the previous day. From here we returned to Daly Waters Pub for an overnight stay. We were lucky to secure a site and to our surprise they kept stacking and racking vans as they continued to roll in, all afternoon. The first wave is larger than we thought, more like a tsunami. The real winner was the pub. Happy hour was bedlam and not sure how the kitchen coped with the dinner crowd but the masses were fed and in our case, my barramundi and Joan’s beef schnitzel were delicious. 

Saturday morning we were on the road by 9:30am, immediately turning off the Stuart Highway and driving 270 klm east along the Tablelands Highway (the Savannah Way) to Cape Crawford pulling up mid afternoon at The Heartbreak Hotel. Grassy shady sites but no mobile or internet service. What a change from the last few days. Mataranka was crowded, Daly Waters was overcrowded, the Stuart Highway is just one long procession of caravans migrating north. Our eastly detour resulted in us only passing nine caravans in total for the day and sharing a caravan park with only about six other campers. Just in case you are wondering why it is called Cape Crawford when it is about 150 klm from the coast. The name Cape Crawford was given to this location by Lindsay Crawford, a pastoralist who discovered the 'Lost City' in the late 1880s. A cape is defined as a strip of land projecting into a body of water; unless you're in the Northern Territory. The McArthur river follows the Abner ranges, just east of the Heartbreak Hotel and takes a dramatic right hand turn, then heads north. At this point the land formation is typical of that of a cape, especially in the wet season, which is why Lindsay Crawford named this place Cape Crawford.

Sunday morning we continued 100 klm east along the Carpentaria Highway to Borroloola, our base for the next few days. We secured a good site close to both the pool and amenities. Had a quiet relaxing day having a brief look around town, swimming in the pool and drafting this blog. Didn’t take long to look around town, as not much to see but we will consult with the Information Centre tomorrow to ascertain road conditions and possibilities of visiting some the surrounding locations and attractions. The next few weeks are going to be predominantly gravel roads, river crossings and virgin territory, for us.

Will post again next Sunday if we have service. Stay safe and happy.


2021 NT Tour - Week 10 - Lorella Springs

2021-05-24 to 2021-05-30

What a week. Adventure, new experiences, an eclipse of the moon and a steep learning curve. Possibly, the best week we have had caravanning.

Monday found us in Borroloola. We were there because it was the only location that had phone and internet service in this corner of the NT. We had important phone meetings to be available for, along with the need to print documents, sign them and have them witnessed, and ultimately scanned and returned to our solicitor. Borroloola came through, the Roper Council Office printed and later scanned our documents. They also directed us the the local school to locate a JP. What could have been a very stressful day, came together and was done and dusted by 2:30pm. The remainder of the day was spent in the pool.

Tuesday morning we were a little late leaving Borroloola. It was to be big day for us and the first real test for our off road van. We had 165klm of unsealed roads to travel to our next destination, Lorella Springs Station. Before turning off the highway onto the corrugated, gravel, rocky, sandy and the occasional river crossing we had to dust proof the van. That involved taping all the door and external vents along with the  refrigerator external grills. It also involved deflating all the vehicle and van tyres to 30psi. It took just over 4 hours to complete the 165klm journey, including a lunch break. The first impression of Lorella was good. The vans performance was brilliant. Easy to tow, all the cupboards and drawers remained closed, not one thing was damaged or broken. The food in the refrigerator remained on the shelves. Better still no dust residue in the van at all. Vehicle and van passed with flying colours. Lorella Springs is advertised as a million acres of adventure and boasts 1000 km of 4WD tracks providing access to hot springs, billabongs, rock holes, waterfalls, canyons, gorges, bush walks, swamps and both river and coastal fishing as the property is situated on the Gulf of Carpentaria. There is a non powered campground near the homestead but the owners encourage visitors to go remote camping and really experience the outback. We elected to stay in the campground and do day trips. So glad we did. We only travelled about 130 km of station roads (without the van); the better ones, and we found some of these testing. 

Wednesday we headed out for Teardrop Falls, stopping off at Eagles Nest Billabong, Snapping Handbag Billabong, Gateway Gorge, the Gorge Lookout and Hidden Pools. We got within 200m of the carpark at Teardrop Falls but elected not to risk the car further when we realised the walk up to the falls was too difficult. Rather we abandoned the car and walked into Hidden Pools for lunch and a swim. The station provides kayaks and canoes on many of the waterways, so we took advantage of this and also canoed the Gateway Gorge. The homeward trip time was around 2 hours to travel 28 km. I was absolutely astounded how well the car, and particularly the tyres handled this terrain and often rocky ground. I even surprised myself at what we achieved. Better still no damage to the vehicle. 

Wednesday evening was a full moon. The bonus on that night, was a full eclipse and blood moon. Where we were camped behind the homestead the moon rose over the escarpment behind us. What an incredible sight and photo opportunity. I captured some good shots over the 2 hour spectacle.

Thursday was back out on the 4WD tracks. Destination today was Nanny’s Retreat, 38 km from home base. The good news was the roads, in general, weren’t as taxing, but the last 5km certainly slowed us down. The rock pool, however was worth the effort. Really enjoyed the swim. On the homeward journey we detoured to another rockhole, Le Spa. Once again a really pretty and excellent swimming hole but the last 2 km climb into the location was the steepest, rocky, most hostile we experienced at Lorella. Fortunately we and the car got out of there unscathed. It still took 2 hours to travel the 38 km home.

We could have easily spent a week at Lorella Springs exploring other parts of the station and enjoying their hospitality at the bar and station cooked meals. However sometimes duty calls and we had to head back to Borroloola to make some phone calls and check in. Lucky we did, as we found out late Friday afternoon, the signed documents we emailed on Monday, had been corrupted in opening /transmitting so we had to redo the whole exercise. 

Saturday morning was taken up with printing, signing, scanning and resending documents. This time we owe a great debt to Jeni at McArhur River Caravan Park. Saturday afternoon we did a grocery shopping at the local supermarket, refuelled the car and esky. Buying alcohol in Borroloola, a semi dry community is an experience. Bottle shop only opens Thursday, Friday and Saturday, 2:30 - 5:30pm. Only cans of mid strength beer are available and limited to a 12 pack per person ($35). They also reserve the right to breathalyse and refuse any customers thought to be already under the influence. 

We had planned to depart Sunday but decided to stay in Borroloola till Monday to ensure the latest round of documents have been executed and received in full before heading off for the Queensland border and then Adel’s Grove. Not sure how long this next leg will take us. It is 500km, described by some as horrendous unsealed road. By the way, most of this distance is along National Highway 1 passing through Calvert River (NT), Hell’s Gate (QLD) and Tirranna.

So Sunday become a service/rest day. Joan cleaned the van, I prepared the van for rough dusty conditions, wrote this blog and spent the remaining time in the pool. 

Hope you are all still enjoying what you are doing and those down south not too cold. Stay safe. I will check in same time next week.


2021 NT Tour - Week 11 - Lawn Hill

2021-05-31 to 2021-06-06

Monday we woke in Borroloola, not knowing what the day would bring. We had decided not to leave until we had confirmation from the solicitor that the paperwork we had executed and sent through Saturday was all in order. We spent the morning doing final preparation of the van for dusty, unsealed corrugated roads. After lunch we visited the Borroloola butcher. A number of locals had recommended him. I am glad we did.  His meat was reasonably priced and it turned out to be top shelf. We have enjoyed it all week. He is definitely a great butcher. We enjoyed his ribs, rump, fillet, sausages, mince and bacon. He is a definite asset to Borroloola and certainly gets our recommendation. We got the all clear from the solicitor at 2:00pm and decided to make a start, realising we probably wouldn’t get to Calvert River that evening, as planned. The road did not disappoint, it was very rough, corrugated, jagged rocks, dusty and plenty of creek crossings. We arrived at Robinson River about 4pm and decided to camp on the banks of this beautiful river. It was a good choice, although we could see a few campfires along the river banks, we had our section to ourselves.

Tuesday morning while doing final checks on the van before setting off, Joan noticed a crack in the passenger’s side van tyre. Closer inspection revealed the inside wall had collapsed. First job of the day, change a tyre. We were still on the road by 10am. Fifty kilometres down the road the other van tyre shredded. In fact it almost totally desintergrated. Another change of tyre required. Three spares suddenly become one. After lunch, the road improved marginally and we made it to Hells Gate Roadhouse by 4:00pm with all our tyres in tact. The only other issue with the van was the rear passenger side stabiliser vibrated loose and was destroyed. Over a lovely home cooked cottage pie for dinner, at the bar, we discussed contingency plans. We still had considerable unsealed roads to cover and not being comfortable with just one spare, we decided to head to Burketown in search of a tyre or perhaps set up base there, if we had to truck a spare tyre in from further afield. 

Wednesday morning we uncovered the mystery behind the name Hells Gate and we also found out the road to Burketown was mainly sealed. So once all the tyres were re-inflated to blacktop road pressures we headed for Burketown.  First stop however was just 1 km south from the Roadhouse. There is a small gap in the escarpment, through which the road passes. In the early days of settlement of the Gulf, when the police contingent, was based at 'Corinda', on the Nicholson River, the police would escort settlers and travellers to the 'portals of Hell's Gate'. From that point onwards, they were 'on their own' until they reached the safety of police protection at Katherine, about 900 km north west, in the Northern Territory. When one considers that, in those days, travellers were on foot, or at the best, mounted on horses; there were no 4WD's or two-way radios, GPS and added to this, the lands were largely unexplored and considered very dangerous, it would well have seemed the gateway to hell.

Moving on we stopped at Doomadgee for fuel, arriving in Burketown at lunchtime. We found a tyre immediately, found the pub and stocked up with some additional liquid supplies, Joan did a quick bread, milk and snacks shopping and I filled the car with fuel ($1.81/ltr). One hour later and about $500 poorer, we were back on the road heading for Gregory Downs Roadhouse, en route to Adels Grove. We were lucky to have found a tyre in Burketown, as the van park was full negating our plan to park up there for a few days, if needed. The road to Gregory Downs was bitumen, the pub was great, as was the camping area out the back.

Thursday morning we had an uneventful 90km run out to Adels Grove. Recent reviews of this location had not been great. We were not disappointed. Reception was friendly but unorganised; EFTPOS not working, cash only, no maps, amenities clean but no hot water, tours not running, uncertainty and double booking of canoe hire. A little off putting but everyone had said Lawn Hill was worth it. After setting up camp we headed out to Lawn Hill National Park, now Boodjamulla NP, (10km away). Still uncertain why it is named this and Joan was certainly disappointed there was not much greenery and definitely no lawn. There are a number of walks and Gorges to explore.

Friday morning we hired a canoe, two paddles and a bailer to explore the gorges. We launched into the Duwadarri Waterhole than progressed upstream through the Middle Gorge. The whole area was breathtaking, but soon realised why all the canoes came with a bailer. We spend equal amounts of time paddling as we did bailing. The reward though was brilliant, Indarri Falls, at the end of the Middle Gorge. It was now also obvious why the canoes leaked. At the end of the Middle Gorge there was a race to drag the canoes out of the water so that they could be dragged about 80 metres overland, over rocks upstream to continue the journey along the Upper Gorge. We elected not to subject the canoe to this punishment but rather went for a swim in the pools under the waterfalls. After lunch we swam in Lawn Hill Creek adjacent to the Adels Grove campground and that evening we enjoyed a meal at their licensed deck area above the densely treed grove.

Saturday the plan was to hike around Island Stack to view some aboriginal art, Wild Dog Dreaming and view the Lower Gorge. Unfortunately we were unable to cross the river to gain access. The contingency plan was to hike the Indarri Falls Track and return via the Indarri and Duwadarri Lookout Tracks. It was a great walk, and even better swim and the lookouts provided a great overview and photos of the entire Gorge system. 

Sunday we reluctantly broke camp and drove back  to Gregory Downs Hotel, filled up with fuel obtained some lunch and headed for the Burke &Wills Roadhouse at the Four Ways. Arriving at the Roadhouse it was a mad house. Caravans lined up to get in. We did secure a site but did not unhook as we have secured realestate in Karumba, tomorrow, for the next 3 days. 

On reflection Lawn Hill certainly impressed us and was a very memorable waypoint. Adels Grove certainly is going through some management issues at present and far from being a good service provider, but the camp sites, the infrastructure and amenities have huge potential and although current shortcomings are a little annoying they did not overly detract from the overall experience. For Joan, Lawn Hill bought back fond memories of Katherine Gorge of past, before it became Nitmiluk. In short we enjoyed our time there and would return.

Not sure where we will end up after Karumba. Our concerns about running into  the tsunami of travellers moving up the east coast occurred earlier than expected. Anyway enough of our problems, until next time stay safe and happy.


2021 NT Tour - Week 12 - Karumba/Cobbold Gorge

2021-06-07 to 2021-06-13

Monday was a pleasant drive from Four Ways to Normanton for lunch, then onto Karumba Point, pulling up at the Karumba Point Holiday & Tourist Park. It was a bitumen  road all the way and we settled back into listening to our audio book. Lunch was particularly good as it was the first fresh bread we had for over a week. The caravan park was also a surprise. We were totally surrounded by southerners that migrate to Karumba every year for three plus months. Most of them have fishing boats and it was a real friendly community that made us feel very welcomed. Our back neighbour even gave us some freshly caught blue fin before we left. One of the reasons we decided to return to Karumba were the banana prawns we enjoyed last visit there. Well, Monday night we tucked into another feed of freshly caught banana prawns. They did not disappoint. 

Tuesday was a service day for both the van and car. Joan did numerous loads of washing and cleaned the van. I spent the morning removing dust from the tray and canopy of the car as well a giving the car a wash. We also managed a grocery shopping and I found time to get a haircut. First in a while. That evening we retreated to the Sunset Tavern for happy hour, a meal and the sunset. Like our last visit, it was very busy and noisy but did not disappoint. The sunset was beautiful and the atmosphere was fuelled by the antics of the crew members of the Shitbox Rally, celebrating another day and new town on their Gold Coast to Alice Springs challenge. The ShitBox Rally challenges teams to drive cars worth less than $1,000 across some of Australia’s most formidable roads. All in the name of charity to fund outstanding cancer research projects. 

Wednesday we woke to a cooler and really windy day. After a late breakfast we made our way to the Les Wilson Barramundi Discovery Centre. Last visit here in 2016 we did visit the Barramundi Centre but this is a new and much larger complex. It was opened in April 2019 and provides the visitor with everything Barramundi along with the history and overview of the industry and people of Karumba and surrounds. Mid afternoon, fortunately the wind had eased, so, we went on the Ferryman Croc and Sunset River Cruise. The ferry picked us up at the Point around 3:30pm and proceeded up river toward the township of Karumba, all the while providing commentary on passing landmarks, its people, industry and local history. The commentary was briefly interrupted whenever a crocodile or birdlife presented itself. We passed the township and proceeded upstream until we reached Ship Creek. Yeah we found the legendary Ship Creek, at which time the ferry operator changed banks and we started drifting downstream towards the Gulf. At this time, the beer, wine and nibbles came out and the party started and continued for the next 1.5 hours. Just before sunset some banana prawns were distributed, then we got a front row seat to see the sun fall below the horizon over water. Living on the east coast, this is something we had only witnessed in Western Australia, Tasmania, Dundee Beach and overseas. It was dark when we disembarked back at the point, just before 7:00pm, just in time to watch the State of Origin first game, being played in Townsville. Talk about a perfect day. NSW annihilated QLD 50 - 6. The highest winning margin for the cockroaches in Origin history. 

Thursday, it was still cold and windy. So cold in fact, I had to dig out my Canadian tuque, better known as a beanie in Australia, to keep my ears warm. An even later breakfast this morning and a morning spent indoors, reading, relaxing and staying warm. The afternoon was much the same minus the wind. Late afternoon we ventured down to Karumba Point to join the daily lineup of visitors, enjoying happy hour and waiting to watch the sunset. This was the third day in a row we watched the sun set over the Carpentaria Gulf.  Tuesday night from the tavern, Wednesday night cruising on a ferry in the gulf and today from the sand dunes on the coastline. Overall a very relaxing, battery charging few days.

Friday we relocated to Croydon, a small but historic gold mining town. We were settled into the Caravan Park by lunchtime. We spent the afternoon visiting the local sights - the railway station, True Blue Visitor Centre, the Croydon Heritage Precinct Restored Museums, Lake Belmore, the Chinese Temple Archaeological Dig Site and Federation Park. A lot of history and stories associated with this little town. Once (1885) Croydon was the third largest town in Queensland and serviced an 18 km long gold field which produced 23,675 kg over gold over 35 years.

Saturday we could not check into Cobbold Gorge until 2:00pm so we had a leisurely drive with a number of stops along the way including Gilbert River (an impressive river), the Cumberland Chimney (historic gold mine), Georgetown (for fuel), Forsayth (for lunch and tree art in Caschafor Park). We arrived at Cobbold Gorge just after 2pm. Initial impressions were good. It is more of a glamping  location than traditional station stay. Our site came complete with an en-suite. After setting up camp we headed down to the infinity pool and bar for our first swim this week. The water was a little fresh but guessing this is going to be a great waypoint.

Sunday we woke to an overcast morning but the sun was out by 10 am when we departed on our gorge cruise. Each barge, custom built electric boats, are restricted to 12 passengers. The gorge is very narrow, as little as 2 metres, in places, and we could only access the first 800 metres. In short, the gorge was spectacular, very tranquil and photogenic. After the cruise we hiked to the top of the gorge to view this stunning formation from a glass bridge. Along the way our Savannah Guide provided information on the flora and fauna and provided a masterclass in bush tucker. After lunch, we swam in the pool before returning to the gorge at 4:30pm for a Gorge SUP experience - Stand Up Paddle Boarding. Another hour of silently gliding through this breathtaking geological masterpiece. Yes we enjoyed paddled boarding. Not experts just yet but something we will pursue. 

Until next week stay safe and happy.


2021 NT Tour - Week 13 - Smoke on the Water & Waugh Pocket

2021-06-14 to 2021-06-20

We woke Monday morning still buzzing from the Stand Up Paddling (SUP) experience of the previous evening at Cobbold Gorge. It had been very enjoyable and a real achievement on our behalf. We kept the winning feeling going , this day by completing a mini triathlon. Firstly we completed a five kilometres hike through the bushland surrounding Cobbold Gorge Village. This was followed up by canoeing on the village dam. The last leg was an extended swim in the infinity pool. This perfect day ended with a great fish dinner on the balcony of the restaurant overlooking the pool and dam.

Tuesday we broke camp and headed for the Goldsfield Hotel in Forsayth. The plan was to be spooked by their local history by night tour. Turns out, the tours are only held Thursday and Friday nights. Contingency plan was to head to Einasleigh and visit Copperfield Gorge. Local advice though, on the roads to be travelled, had us deciding to abandon that and backtrack to Georgetown. Arrived back in Georgetown just on lunch time. After lunch we had a run around, town, not a lot to be seen, but did get some good meat from the local butcher. This trip, like previous tours we have been really impressed with the small local butchers. A good selection of quality meat at an affordable price.

Wednesday we moved onto Mt Surprise stopping at the Bedrock Village. A small family developed van park. Seventy five sites, all drive through. The camp kitchen and amenities being amongst the best we have experienced. It was pizza night and we enjoyed a generous and scrumptious meat lovers thin crust pizza whilst mingling with other travellers, sharing war stories and the road travelled so far.

Thursday, broke camp and an hour and a half later we had checked into Innot Hot Springs. We have visited here before. Nothing to do here except soak in the hot mineral pools. Six pools in total, two plunge pools (23-25°C), a 32-34°C pool, a 34-36°C pool, a 38-40°C pool and finally a 41-43°C pool. It is a very relaxing place with the day made up of moving from one pool to the next, ultimately jumping into a cold plunge pool and starting all over again. The other bonus being you can access the pools at any hour of the day or night. So we swam early morning, mid morning, late afternoon and each night. It does tend to be soothing and bordering on meditation. It also reminds me of Lourdes. An endless line of old fogies turning up with endless pains, complaints and ills, that the hot water and minerals are going to cure. Do have to admit after hours in the water your skin does feel good, hair is shiny and you do feel reinvigorated. In the hotter spa pools I have to admit we could smell something. Sometimes it had an incense aroma and other times an earthy tone. We finally agreed it was probably just the wetness and damp stonework used to construct the pools. Friday night, alone in the dark, in the 40°C pool, with only the blue glow of the pool lights, it hit me. I know what the smell is. Urine!!!!! I certainly hope not and I suspect not but I still showered immediately and headed back to the van. Though I do have admit it does make the skin and hair shine, and the souls of my feet are so soft. Friday afternoon we took some time out to drive into Ravenshoe (ravens-hoe, not raven-shoe) for a grocery run. We also called into Millstream Falls reputed to be the widest, single-drop Falls in Australia. You learn something new everyday.

Saturday, an exciting day. We headed towards Innisfail on our way to Waugh Pocket, in the shadows of Bartle Frere, the tallest mountain in Queensland, to catch up with old friends from our Darwin days, Maurice and Sandra. We had lost touch with them mid 1980’s. Turns out they have been in the Cairns area for most of this time and have carved out a beautiful, colourful and tranquil rainforest retreat at Waugh Pocket. The reunion went well. Soon caught up on the gap years. Maurice had cleared an area of rainforest on the low side of their property near the creek, for us to park the van. All of a sudden we had our own little piece of paradise. The remainder of the day was taken up exploring their gardens and landscaping prowess’s, then sitting on the back verandah until late into the evening drinking, eating and reminiscing with good friends. A truely magic day all round.

Sunday, another relaxing quiet day on the back verandah at Maurice and Sandra’s continuing the conversations from yesterday and enjoying more of their home brew and good music. We also got to meet their son Daniel, wife Rachel and their baby. Another great day with great people.

Until next week stay happy and safe.


2021 NT Tour - Week 14 - Townsville

2021-06-21 to 2021-06-27

Monday we woke in Waugh Pocket, still parked in a tropical paradise being Maurice and Sandra’s place. It was a great weekend catching up with old friends and meeting their family. It was also good to take a break from the rigours of travelling and exploring new destinations. Having said that, Sandra did take us sightseeing on Monday around the Babinda, Mirriwinni and Bramston Beach areas whilst showing us all the different places they had lived in the district over the past twenty years. We also met and lunched with their daughter, Sarah, in Babinda. Monday night we had supper at the Leagues Club in Innisfail. Another great meal with friends. 

Tuesday morning we had coffee with Sandra before saying our final goodbyes and heading south down the highway towards home, but not before Sandra had loaded us up with some goodies. A bag of coconuts for Rex, when we get home, to chew and play with, and a box of papayas for us. Have to say, we have really enjoyed the papaya and yoghurt each morning, this week, for breakfast. It was an overcast day, a great day for travelling, with us pulling up at Cardwell, that afternoon.

It rained overnight and we woke to a wet morning on Wednesday. We had planned to relocate to Big Crystal Creek in the Paluma NP but we decided to stay put and relocate the next day, if the weather improved. Had a quiet day around the van and a short drive and walk along the coastline after lunch.

Thursday was still overcast so we decided to bypass Paluma NP and head direct to Townsville. After the highs of the weekend, thinking about the trip so far and what we will need to be do when we get home, we decided Townsville would be a good spot to stop and prop to take stock of what we do need to fix or attend to. During this tour, the off-road van and the BT-50 have impressed me no end. A number of tracks and creek crossings have taken me out of my comfort zone but the vehicles have survived. Obviously travelling on unsealed roads, we had to expect some damage and breakages but fortunately all, so far, have been inexpensive and of no real consequence. It’s time however to start some rectification and repairs. After setting up camp at Magnetic Gateway Caravan Park on the outskirts of Townsville we took inventory of all the things we needed to do and developed a task/shopping list for the next day. 

Friday morning we worked out an itinerary for the day. By days end we had visited OfficeWorks, Chemist Warehouse(flu shots), Harvey Norman, Bunnings, JB Hi-Fi, The Caravan Hub, Dan Murphys, Woolworths, TMR, Olbis Techhaven and Kristal Electronics. What a day, running around a town we were unfamiliar with, but pleased to report we completed the whole list and got everything we needed. A very successful day all round.

Saturday we started to tick items off the ‘to do’ list. The following is the Issues list and current status:

      Item.                                           Issue/To Do.                                       Status

   Mud Flaps.                                   Replace lost flap.                            Purchased & fitted

   Awning Brackets.                         Replace broken one.                      Part ordered

   Gas Grill.                                      Broken.                                          Yet to be fixed

   Microwave.                                   Fix turntable coupling.                    Part ordered

   Van Stabiliser                               Broken                                            Yet to be fixed

   VAST Satellite Receiver.              Not working                                    Receiver replaced

   DC Controller.                              Not working.                                   Loose wires - fixed

   Inlet water hose.                          Leaking. Change fitting.                  Fixed

   UHF Radio Aerial.                        Needs grub screws.                       Fixed

   Cupboard Handles/Lock.             Broken, need replacing.                  Parts ordered

   Car/Van hydraulic jack.                Broken.                                           Purchased replacement

   Number Plate.                              Lost one in the NT.                         New plates purchased

   Phones                                         Ageing & outdated IOS.                 Purchased new phones

   iPads.                                           Ageing & outdated IOS.                 Still researching

Overall no major items on this list. For the amount of off-road and unsealed roads encountered this trip, we got off lightly

Sunday we had a quiet morning, visited the Information Centre and markets in the CBD. Then, as our devices are ageing and falling behind with IOS updates we continued our research into latest iPads and iPhones. Ended up with new iPhones but will have to order iPads when we get home. The afternoon was spent putting together this blog and playing with the new phone. 

Until next week take care and stay happy. Our thoughts are with those forced back into lockdown for now. Make the most of the quality time at home. 


2021 NT Tour - Week 15 - Townsville & Covid 19

2021-06-28 to 2021-07-04

We started this week in Townsville having arrived here last Thursday. We had planned to go to Magnetic Island on the Monday but as we slept in we decided to visit the Palmetum and go for a stroll along the Strand. We spent the morning strolling around the Palmetum, visiting the Rainforest circuit, Savannah circuit, Xerophyte circuit and the lagoon. Our experience was all the better having done our palm 101 induction last week with Maurice and Sandra. From here we moved onto the Fish Inn on Rockpool at the northern end of the Strand. After a scrumptious fish and chips lunch we clambered up the headland to Kissing Point Fort and Jezzine Barracks. The fortification sits on a rocky outcrop providing panoramic views of Pallarenda Beach, Cape Pallarenda, Strand Beach, Townsville Harbour, Magnetic Island and Mount Elliot. An elevated walkway provides an easy walk from the fortifications to Rowe’s Beach. It is littered with Aboriginal artwork and sculptures. 

Tuesday we were again a little slow in getting mobile, enjoying a late breakfast and admiring a whistling kite that had been keeping an eye on us the last few days. He was perched only 20 metres from our annex. Just after 11:00am we heard the news that Townsville was going into a 3 day lockdown at 6:00pm that evening due to the risk of community transmission. Persons who visited the Flinders Square Markets on Sunday were considered possible close contacts and requested to get Covid tested as soon as possible. We had visited the markets, checking in at 11:04am Sunday morning on the Qld ‘Check in’ App. So, straight after lunch, Tuesday afternoon we headed out to 1300 Smiles Stadium to get tested. We were queued in a line of cars till 5 o’clock, when the police turned us away, advising testing was completed for the day. During the wait in the queue we decided we would fully isolate at the caravan park. Showering and toileting in the van and not interacting or share any of the parks amenities. The rationale behind this being to reduce the risk of community transmission to or from us, which would allow us immediate passage home after the lockdown and not put our friends and family at home in risk.

Wednesday morning we were up bright and early and headed out to the Covid testing site. We arrived 10 minutes before the gates opened at 8:00am. We were very pleased with ourselves as we rejoined the queue in almost the same position we abandoned the previous evening, about 5 cars from turning the corner into the Stadium. Imagine our horror when we turned the corner and discovered a line of cars as far as the eye could see, snaking up the road. Turned out we were still 800m from the stadium entrance point. In short, we got to the front gates of the stadium at 10:00am, snaked our way around the car park for another 4 hours finally being tested a 2:10pm.

Thursday, we self isolated in the van. We filled in the time by washing, cleaning and doing maintenance around the van. I received my negative test result at lunch time. Joan had to wait till Friday morning to get her all clear.

Friday the plan was to pack the van up, hook up and assumimg the lockdown would be lifted 6:00pm that night allowing us to depart Townsville first thing Saturday morning and head for home.  Our world changed around 2:00pm. We received a phone call from Qld Health advising as we were at the markets at the same time as the infected woman, we were considered close contacts and issued a Covid Quarantine Direction requiring us to self quarantine till Sunday 11 July. After a lengthy discussion and guarantees that we had sufficient fuel, food and water and an onboard toilet, meaning we could travel home without stopping or interacting with anyone, it was agreed we could relocate Saturday from Townsville back to Bouldercombe. We had kept our housesitters in the loop and they had also agreed that they would depart before we got home.

Saturday morning we were on the road by 6:45am. All going well until we stopped for roadworks about 35 klm south of Home Hill. What appeared to be smoke, coming from the engine bay of our car, turned out to be steam escaping from a crack in the coolant reservoir. We limped on another 10klm before we were forced to stop at Gumlu as the car was overheating and we couldn’t seal the reservoir. Fortunately we are in RACQ Ultimate and discussion with them, including full disclosure on the Covid quarantine order, confirmed that they would assist us, just not sure how. Six hours later after numerous calls with Qld Health, RACQ and local Mazda dealers a tow truck turned up with a passenger vehicle onboard. After unloading the loan car, our car was winched onto the truck, the van was then hitched behind the truck. We had loaded a few necessities into the loan car and we headed for home. The car and van was overnighted in Bowen and both will be delivered to our place on Monday. We had an uneventful run home, getting to Bouldy about 10:30pm.

Sunday, first day in quarantine at home. Much easier on acreage than the annex of a caravan. Had a really lazy day as Lyn and Doug left the house and yard immaculate. Thanks guys, looks like the bar has been raised, a new standard has been set! Joan was happy to see Rex and has spent most of today playing with him. I haven’t had a chance to finalise the trip metrics but will attend to that next few days. Guess I will have plenty of time and opportunity to do that. We have to do a day 12, Covid Test next Friday. Pretty confident it will be negative and we can get back to living.

As the sticker says One Life- Live It.

POST script

Trip metrics

Away from home = 109 days

Number of waypoints = 42

Total kilometres travelled = 11208 klm

Kilometres towing van = 7628 klm (68 % of klm travelled)

Amount of diesel consumed =  1772.89 ltr

Cost of diesel consumed = $2570.79

Average cost of diesel/ltr =  145 cpl

Average fuel consumption = 15.82 ltr/100klm

Best ltr/100 km = 12.96 ltr/100klm

Highest ltr/100km =  17.90 ltr/100klm.


Portugal trip - Days 1 & 2, Brisbane, Dubai, Lisbon

2022-09-01 to 2022-09-02

Can you guess where we are? Brazil, San Francisco or somewhere else?
We are in Lisbon, Portugal. We left Rockhampton lunch time Wednesday 31st August and 35 hours later we arrived in Lisbon, early afternoon, Thursday. A good feed and  sleep Thursday night had us up and on the go today (Friday). We did a three hour walking tour around Chiado, Baxa and Alfama, inner suburbs of Lisbon. The history, the buildings and sights were well worth the effort. We had a cultural evening, visiting a Fado show - traditional Portuguese music (guitars and singers) followed by another delightful meal. More travels and photos tomorrow. Take care and stay safe.


Portugal Trip - Day 3, Lisbon, Sintra, Cascais

2022-09-03

Another big day. Up early and joined a bus trip to Sintra, about 30 minutes from Lisbon. First stop was Peña Castle; lots of steps but a magic place. From here we visited Piriquita Pastry; more delicious pastries. Next stop was a long enjoyable Portuguese lunch (seafood) at D. Pipas, in Sintra.  After lunch we visited Sagres, and then Cabo da Roca where Joan walked to the edge of the world, the westernmost point of the Eurasian landmass. Glad to report that I can say ‘I followed my wife to the end of the world’. Last stop on the way back to Lisbon was Cascais. Tomorrow we pick up our hire car and start our roadtrip around Portugal. Just a few of the many photos taken today.


Portugal Trip - Day 4, Lisbon, Obidos, Fatima

2022-09-04

Roadtrip Day 1. 

A change of pace today and start of our roadtrip. Picked up our Jeep, this morning and headed straight across the bridge to the Sanctuary of Christ the King before heading north on the 120kph A1 motorway. First stop was the walled medieval town of Obidos. We parked near the 11th Century aqueduct and walked to the city gates, where we strolled around the market village and walked the ramparts of the fortress. After lunch we made our way to Nazaré. It is a coastal holiday town. Being a Sunday it was the Gold Coast on steroids. Too many people and no parking so we made tracks for our overnight stay in Fatima. Just finished an incredible fish soup and pizza, now completeing this post before falling into bed.


Portugal Trip - Day 5, Fatima, Aveiro, Porto

2022-09-05

Road Trip Day 2. 

Being our 5th day we are now feeling comfortable and settled into Portugal. The people have been extremely friendly, the climate favourable, the roads good, the history lesson amazing and the food incredible. We started the day in Fatima, a Catholic pilgrimage site, a result of multiple apparitions to local children by the Virgin Mary, in 1917. It is certainly a holy and spiritual place. Many clergy. Also a surprising number of pilgrims, mainly elderly women crawling on their knees along a 182 metre concrete path praying for specific needs or as a way of thanking Mary for favours granted. Certainly a sight to behold. My mother, a very religious person, would certainly have enjoyed the experience and the significance of the sanctuary. From here we travelled to the Vista Alegre Porcelain Factory. Mum would have also enjoyed this place as she also loved porcelain. Adjoining this site is the 17 Century chapel of the Our Lady of Penha de França with tiled walls and many porcelain statues along with the tomb of the church’s founding bishop. From here we lunched in Aveiro before heading off to Porto. Tonight we were introduced to the delights of Spanish Iberian pork sirloin. What a taste sensation.

PS. If interested in the Fatima story the following link provides some good details: https://www.portugal.com/history-and-culture/what-happened-at-the-miracle-of-fatima/


Portugal Trip - Day 6, Porto

2022-09-06

Road Trip Day 3. 

Had another big day yesterday. So big and late I fell asleep before posting this daily blog last night. The main event today was a 3 hour walking tour of the city centre of Porto, one of Europe’s oldest cities. The tour started in a square, Praça de Gomes Teix in front of the University of Porto. While waiting for the tour group to assemble we watched this long queue winding down the street in front of a small shop. We assumed it was a ticket selling venue. The tour guide later advised us it was in fact Livrara Lello, a famous bookshop, opened in 1869, one of the oldest in Portugal and rated amongst the top bookstores in the world. You have to arrive early to avoid the queue. From here we visited the Law Courts then onto the Clerigos Church and Tower. Another prime example of a Portuguese church. From here we did a custard tart tasting before moving onto the São Bento Railway Station, the site of a number of Portuguese scenes made up of approximately 20,000 azulejo tiles, composed and painted by Jorge Colaço. Then we walked up the hill, via the escalator, in the adjoining São Bento metro, to the Sé do Porto, home of the Porto Cathedral, a cloister, a museum and the Bishop’s Palace and a great view over the oldest part of the city. We made our way down countless stairs to Mercadores Street, once the commercial hub of the old city and continued down until we reached the Douro River and our first real view of the Dom Henrique Bridge and the end of our walking tour. You were right Simon Collins, it was a great tour. It was here that we lunched admiring the bridge and overlooking Gaia. Late afternoon we visited Churchill’s for a port wine tasting and tour of their cellar. Similar to a cellar door visit in Australia and of course we walked out with a few bottles of Tawny Port. The tasting was good but probably contributed to me falling asleep straight after my grilled octopus and shrimp dinner, in the hotel’s 17° Restaurant. The food in Portugal is very good.


Portugal Trip - Day 7, Porto, Guimaraes, Amarante, Provesende

2022-09-07

Road Trip Day 4. 

Portugal continues to surprise and amaze us. For such a small country they certainly have played a large part on the world stage, considering the achievements of their explorers Vasco de Gama and Ferdinand Magellan. Their discoveries gave them access to not only trade opportunities and goods but also knowledge and new ways of doing things. They unashamedly adopted and borrowed new ideas, philosophies and technology from these far away locations.

We woke in Porto this morning and although it was a travel day, we had to do some washing before hitting the road. We visited a very modern, clean laundromat. Once all the domestic stuff was taken care of we headed east towards the Douro Valley. The first stop was Guimarães Castle, the cradle of the Portuguese nationality. It was here in 1128 that the independence and birth of a new nation took place and it became the first capital of the Country of Portugal. We visited, the castle, the Church of S. Miguel do Castelo and the Palace before walking through the old city and admiring their beautiful city square, the Republic do Brasília Square. From here we travelled further east through the mountains to Amarante. The roads and infrastructure made this a pleasant and exhilarating drive. Beside the incredible mountain vistas there were two standout man made structures. Firstly the Tunel Do Marão, 5.6km long, cutting through and flattening Mt Marão. The other is The Corgo Viaduct or Vila Real Bridge, a motorway bridge. It is located in the Vila Real district and spans the Corgo River. It is 230 metres above the Corgo River, and is 2.8km long. In Amarante we visited the Church and Monastery of  Saint Conçalo. Our stopover tonight is a 17th century, manor house, situated in a vineyard, in the small village of Provesende. What a gem. Looking forward to spending a few days here. Dinner this evening was a formal three course meal in the manor house, hosted by the owner, Emanuel and accompanied by four wines and two ports, produced by the property. The property and the wine is Morgadio da Calçada. Hope you enjoy the accompanying photos.


Portugal Trip - Day 8, Pinhäo, Douro Valley

2022-09-08

Road Trip Day 5. 

We had a quiet day today. A late breakfast, 8:30am at the manor house, as we had to wait for the local bread to be baked and delivered. Mid morning we drove down the mountain to Pinhão, located on the Douro River. The Douro River and the Douro Valley are known primarily for Port, that has been produced here for two thousand years, along with some red and white table wines. The spectacular landscape is characterised by improbably steep terraces covered in vines and dotted with wine-producing farms called quintas. We took a two-hour river boat cruise with Magnifico Douro. Unfortunately it started to rain just after getting on the boat and continued till just before we left the boat. The boat was equipped to provide adequate sun protection but failed miserably on sheltering passengers from the rain. The boat was overbooked, combined with the rain making the whole experience pretty ordinary. With the sun now shining we ventured to the Writers Place Restaurant in Pinhão for a long lunch. Not by design, just slow service, but it was enjoyable overlooking the Douro River. We drove back up the mountain to the manor to enjoy the solitude of the vineyard. Michael Miller you would have enjoyed the the run down the mountain and the hill climb on the way home. The change in elevation is 766m over a point to point distance of 3.6 km, though the road distance is 11 km. The road is narrow, barely two lanes, no barriers and countless corners. Tonight we walked the 80 metres to the local pub and enjoyed and evening with the locals. 250ml glass of beer €1.50 and a generous glass of red wine €3.00, or A$6.66 per shout. Dinner was a tapas board of pork meats, cheese, olives and bread for €22. A night out food and drinks about A$60. Pretty good all round and the locals are very friendly.


 


Portugal Trip - Day 9, Provesende,Viseu, Belmonte

2022-09-09

Road Trip Day 6. 

We had another sleep in this morning, as we had to wait until 8:30am for the bakery to make bread for our breakfast. The late breakfast is not uncommon in Portuguese motels and in Portugal in general. The overall population here are laid-back. Many of the shops do not open until 10 am. Some coffee shops and pastry outlets open earlier but in the main the day doesn’t start till 10 am. A lot of businesses also close again at 12 pm or 1:00pm and do not reopen again till about 2:00pm. Likewise motel/hotel check-in time is not till 4:00pm and checkout time is generally midday. After breakfast we headed for the medieval  village of Viseu. We parked close to the Town Centre passing through the town gates to visit, the Cathedral of Viseu and the Tesouro da Miscericordia, another church. After a stroll around the city centre, we stopped at Andalusia, a Spanish tapas restaurant, for lunch. We selected a couple of interesting dishes. Firstly Cogumelos, deep fried crumbed mushrooms and Ovos Rotos, french fries, chorizo, peppers and smashed soft fried eggs. Both simple dishes, but very satisfying. After lunch we moved onto Belmonte, arriving around 3 o’clock. As we had an hour to kill before check-in at our accommodation we drove straight to the Castle of Belmonte, built in 1258. The walls and shell of the castle are, still intact. We explored the castle and the nearby Church of Santiago and bell tower. The church is believed to have been built in 1240 and the tower in 1860. The ashes of Pedro Alvarez Cabral and other family members rest in this chapel. At the allotted time of 4 o’clock we made our way to Pousada De Belmonte, a 13th century Convert, overlooking the Estrela Mountains. It is now converted into a modern luxury hotel.  The on-site gourmet restaurant has a number of Michelin awards. We enjoyed a meal of Mushroom Cappuccino with pot herbs. A soup, that is served in a coffee cup and looks like a cappuccino, but is in fact a delicious cream mushroom soup. Mains were tuna fillets with bio vegetables and crawfish nantu sauce and carré of lamb with Piemonte’s mushroom risotto followed by the world’s best (their description) Crème Brullée in a river granite stone. Sometimes life is just extra good.
 


 


Portugal Trip - Day 10, Vide, Alenejo, Marvão, Evora

2022-09-10

Road Trip Day 7

Saturday we woke up in Belmonte. This is located in eastern central Portugal, only a stones throw from the Spanish border. Although we had over 300 km to travel today it was 10 o’clock by the the time we left. First up, we travelled about an hour south to a little village called Vide. We parked just outside the city gates, though we had quite a steep climb up to what we thought was a castle. It turned out to be a walled town with people living inside the walls. The construction of the castle and walls was begun in 1312 and concluded in 1327. After exploring this inner town we headed down, on foot, to the modern day town centre of Alenejo where we had lunch, behind the Alto church. After lunch the plan was to drive to the castle of Marvão, advertised as the most beautiful castle in Portugal. Things did not quite go to plan. Being a hot day the GPS cooked and failed, resulting in us getting hopelessly lost and driving some very narrow country roads, some extremely steep rough roads,  and some even tighter backstreets of small villages. For the first time this trip I had to fold the mirrors in on two occasions, to get through tight village streets. A little stressful with the car alarm screaming and less than 25 mm between the hire car and the stone brickwork. We eventually got the GPS functioning again, backtracked and made it to the top of the world to the medieval Marvão castle, built in the 8th century. Being late in the day we didn’t get to explore much of the castle, another walled town. We just had time to take a few photos, then head for Evora, our waypoint for the next couple of days. The hotel is within the walled city and once again we got to experience narrow lanes streets and alleys. We have now settled into the hotel had some dinner and de-stressed. On reflection it has been an interesting day. We have travelled on some world class motorways and also some very ordinary pot-holed country roads and cobblestoned backstreets in unknown villages. I must say though the major road network within Portugal is absolutely brilliant, good surfaces, with wide multiple lanes and divided roads. A number of tunnels to flatten the mountains and bridges spanning deep gorges to smooth the journey and maintain straight fast roads. Maximum posted speed limit is 120 kph which I have been travelling at most of the time, however everyone still passes me and I only ever get to pass the occasional truck or caravan. Equally surprising is, I have only seen a few police cars on the roads and I am yet to see a fixed or mobile radar. The cost for these roads are the toll ways. I’ve lost count of how many tolls we have paid since we left Lisbon. The trip from Lisbon to Porto I tallied about  €33 in tolls for that trip. I have also been investigating the cost of living over here. So far, in bars, pubs and restaurants we have found the cost of alcohol very cheap. Likewise, outside motel restaurants, food prices have been very attractive and affordable. Yesterday we took time out to check out alcohol prices in a supermarket. Bottles of red wine generally fell in the €3 - €7 range, and we haven’t found a rough one yet. Beer, a six pack 6 x 330ml €4.49 and a cube, 30 x 250ml €12.34. Diesel is running at about €1.93/litre in country areas, falling to about €1.80/litre in Lisbon. Anyway until next time stay safe and happy.


Portugal Trip - Day 11, Evora

2022-09-11

Road trip Day 8. 
 

It is Sunday and we are in Evora. After our big day yesterday we had a very quiet and relaxing day. We did a self guided walking tour around the historic city centre, leaving the car in the parking lot. Ėvora is the capital of Portugal's south-central Alentejo region. Being Sunday most of the shops were shut. The bonus being not too many people around and very few cars on the narrow streets. The other bonus for us was the city is very flat with only a gentle rise to the city centre. Our hotel sits right next to the wall so all we had to do was walk out the front door and walk up the narrow street opposite. By chance it was a street with many souvenir shops, all of which were open, making it a very colourful if not a slow walk into the centre. We knew we were approaching the city centre when we came upon Geraldo square. This square has a number of eateries and some more souvenir shops. There is also a sculptured tree in a shady corner that was surrounded by elderly village men, passionately and loudly debating the daily topic. We carried on towards the centre of town soon coming upon the Cathedral of Ėvora, a massive Gothic structure begun in the 12th century. We spent about an hour and a half doing a tour of the cathedral, and seeing we had not climbed any stairs today we included a roof walk. The view of the cathedral and the medieval town was certainly worth the effort. Around the corner from the cathedral was a Roman temple - the ancient Roman Temple of Évora (also called the Temple of Diana). It was a real surprise to see this Roman structure constructed in the first half of the first century, in the middle of this landscape of whitewashed houses and churches in this medieval city. After a late lunch we made our way back to the motel and rewarded ourselves with an afternoon nap. This evening we stepped out and enjoyed a sushi buffet, at a nearby Samurai restaurant.


Portugal Trip - Day 12, Arrabida Nature Park, Lisbon

2022-09-12

Road Trip Day 9


Yesterday (Monday)  was a trying day. Sometimes when travelling things just happen which we have no control over. Glad to report that all ended well but nothing seemed to go our way yesterday.  It was the last day of our roadtrip, needing to return the hire car by 6 pm. The plan was to have a leisurely drive back to Lisbon, spending the day in Arrábida National Park and the beach, arriving at the Lisbon motel about 4pm, leaving plenty of time to return the car. We woke to an overcast day. As soon as we started driving it started raining,  which made driving a little more difficult. Regardless we continued, calling into the Moorish Castle of Palmela. What a view, looking over Setūbul and Lisbon. We drove onto to the park and the beach thinking we could at least have a look and probably enjoy lunch at a cafe, overlooking the ocean. But it didn’t happen, it was a nice drive down to the coast but the road was high on a headland, there with parking spaces that allowed you to walk down to the beach. It was raining and there were no cafes so we decided to head for Lisbon and spend the afternoon sight seeing if it cleared up after lunch. The motorway into Lisbon has a posted speed 120 km/h. All was going well till 12km from the San Francisco bridge. Here our three lanes of traffic came to a standstill. Almost two hours later we reached the bridge, not sure what caused the delay, but assumed it was an accident. The delay didn’t overly impact us except we were now both desperate to find a toilet and rather hungry, as it was almost 2 o’clock. We spotted a McDonald’s and thought okay, not fans but this will take care of our two immediate needs, a bathroom and some lunch. What a mistake. Got into the restaurant to find the toilet locked with a number code. Could only get a code with a food order. With no counter service we had to master the touch board, whilst jogging on the spot to avoid breaking the seal. Ordered burgers, fries and coffee and most importantly got the code. The toilet was a life saver, the food was less than desirable. After lunch we walked to the Padrão dos Descobrimentos, a monument to Portuguese sailors. It is located on the banks of the Tagus River and provides a good view of the 25 de April Bridge and Christ the King Statue. It was blowing a gale when we arrived, to the point I could not hold the camera still. Decided to go inside, paid our €5 to go to the rooftop to view the city. You guessed it as soon as we stepped onto the roof, it started raining. We gave up and headed for the motel. I left about 4:30pm to return the car. Long story short about 1 klm from the EUROPCAR office, I took a wrong turn, ended up in a tunnel, then on the bridge. Travelled an additional 17 klm in peak hour traffic to get back to the drop off point at 5:40pm. I was happy to return the car, with no damage. Somehow we survived the speeding, the roads, narrow laneways and cobblestone streets and returned the car with no dents or scratches. We celebrated our success and trip so far at an Armenian restaurant near the hotel. Today is a service day, washing, repacking and buying some last minute items for the next chapter of this trip.


Portugal Trip - Day 13 & 14, Lisbon, Porto

2022-09-13 to 2022-09-14

Rest Days.  

We are currently on a fast train travelling from Lisboa to Porto. Yesterday (Tuesday) was a service day, in Lisbon, doing laundry, some shopping and a general walk around Avenue Miguel Bombarda, and other streets surrounding the Olissippo Motel. Over the last nine days we have circumnavigated the central and northern areas of Portugal, basically all areas north of Lisbon. In Australian terms only a short road-trip, only clocking up 1429 kilometres. It is now time to commence the next phase of this trip. This morning we had a sleep in and lazy morning before heading to the Lisboa Oriente Railway station to catch the midday train to Porto, the starting point of our Camino - a self-guided walk from the outskirts of Porto, northern Portugal to Santiago de Compostela, in Spain, a distance of 236 kilometres. We have allowed 14 days to complete this. Certainly looking forward to this challenge, hoping that the track really is moderate and not too hilly, that the temperature remains around the 24 - 26°C range and not too many wet days. Hoping to be able to plot and report progress each day. We have another day off tomorrow, in Porto and then the fun begins Friday morning.


Portugal Trip - Day 15, Porto

2022-09-15

Rest Day.  

We woke in Porto this morning to an overcast day. After breakfast we re-packed our bags and organised our backpacks for the walk that we start tomorrow. By this time, it had cleared up so we walked towards the centre of town and re-visited the two cathedrals with the little house in between known as Igreja do Carmo and Igreja dos Carmelitas, built in the 17th Century, that we passed when we were here just over a week ago. This time we had time to visit and do a tour the church, the little house, the sacristy and the catacombs. From here we ventured back over to Livrara Lello, the bookshop, opened in 1869, one of the oldest in Portugal and rated amongst the top bookstores in the world to see how long the queue was to enter this famous bookshop. We decided the line was too long so we continued to wander around the commercial centre, visiting a number of colourful and interesting shops. The shops included Portuguese sardine tins, painted tiles, souvenir and knick-knack shops. Lunchtime had us in the square opposite Sao Bento Railway Station, so we found a little cafe, had our midday meal and then wandered back to our hotel, Porto Trindade Hotel. This hotel only has a very small footprint but comprises of surprisingly large rooms and quirky decor. Very seventies combined with industrial verging on steampunk. So far during this tour we have drunk some very cheap, but good wines. Begging the question, could any of their wines be classified as rough red. This afternoon I went to a local supermarket and purchased the cheapest bottle I could find. I walked out with Azinhaga De Ouro Reserva 2019, €2.19. It was classified as a Douro DOC(denominação de origem controlada)Tinto, which means  it is a red wine that is guaranteed to have been grown in the Douro Valley and meets an agreed standard. It was not the best wine I have ever sampled but it was definitely not a rough red. This evening we met with the local representative from AusWalk, the company that helped organise our Camino. We now have our full compliment of maps, walking notes and an understanding of the logistics of getting our bags from one stop to the next. My next blog will be written somewhere along the Camino path.


Portugal Trip - Day 16, Porto, Mosteiro, Vairão, Vilarinho, Marmede, Arcos

2022-09-16

Portuguese Camino  Day 1 

Metrics: Distance walked today = 17.83klm. Total distance travelled this Camino = 17.83 klm. Duration of walk today = 7:07:55 hours. Pace = 23.59 min/klm. Steps = 30.1k.

Fabio our Uber driver picked us up at 8:30am at the motel and drove us to the outskirts of Porto, roughly 10 km from the hotel. After he took our photo at the starting point of our Camino, he jumped in his car and left us to our own devices. Because we were still close to Porto most of the day was walking through built-up areas and small villages but we did get to travel through some farming areas, consisting of small vineyards and lots of corn farms. Our strategy was to travel slowly and stop often. Our first coffee was at 6 km mark in the small village of Vairão. It was fun up till lunchtime and even after lunch fuelled by pizza in Vilarinho, we happily continued to the 15 km mark, the temperature was then about 28°C, and we both probably would’ve liked it to have ended about then. We did push on stopping for a coffee at a pastry shop in Mamede. Another 3 km had us arriving at our destination. It is a beautiful spot. To enter the village of Arcos we had to cross a 12th century bridge over a little river. We stopped here under the shade of a tree and soaked our feet in the cold water for about 20 minutes before walking the last 400 metres into town. The guesthouse this evening is very luxurious and we are certainly enjoying kicking back and rejuvenating after showers and some drinks. Tomorrow the itinerary has us doing 20 klm so we’re going to have to wait and see how that works out. Until then take care will hopefully have another update tomorrow.

 


 


Portugal Trip - Day 17, Arcos, Rates, Pedra Fedada, Barcelos

2022-09-17

Portuguese Camino Day 2.  

Metrics:Distance walked today = 19.55 klm. Total distance travelled this Camino = 37.38 klm. Duration of walk today = 6:03:10. Pace = 18:34min/klm. Steps = 30.1k.

Although today was a longer hike it was a better day. It was a late start; like a number of Portuguese establishments breakfast was not available until 8:30am. Once breakfast was done and dusted we hit the road and when we cleared Arcos we enjoyed a mixture of rural and small farming communities. Most of the farms were growing corn, interspersed with small vineyards. Many of the vineyards were picking grapes. Most of the corn farms were harvesting their corn and harvesting the stalks for silage. There was a sweet smell from most of the silage pits but there was the odd pungent smell as we walked the lanes between the many small acre allotments. In fact this morning we only passed through one town, being Rates. After 11 kilometres we arrived in Pedra Fedada, just in time for lunch. It was at this point that Joan decided she had had enough for today so we called a cab and Joan volunteered to make sure there was cold beer in the fridge motel when I arrived later in the day. After lunch I pushed on and it was a pleasant walk alternating between forest and suburbia. Fortunately suburbia was the backstreets of small farming communities and there were very few vehicles. I  eventually made my way into Barcelos and then hit 3 km of backstreets and eventually downtown then the old town, along the Main Street to navigate home to be rewarded with my cold beers at the hotel. The hotel was situated next to the police station with a number of bars and restaurants in close walking distance. 
 

I have to admit I have never appreciated or understood the role of walking sticks when hiking. Now I am very much aware of the advantages they provide when walking. In short the benefits of walking sticks are
* Protect your knees from the impact of walking, when walking downhill.
* Increase your walking speed, especially going downhill.
* Improve power and endurance when walking uphill.
* Aid balance and stability on uneven trails.
* Improve your posture so that you walk in a more upright position
Now I would recommend any serious walker to invest in a good pair of walking sticks. This evening we stepped out, ended up having a few drinks at a nearby pub and then dinner at Restaurant Muralhas. That’s all for now.  I’ll update again  tomorrow night. 

PS. If interested in the legend of the rooster the following link provides the story of a dead rooster's miraculous intervention in proving the innocence of a man who had been falsely convicted and sentenced to death.https://www.portugalproperty.com/news-blog/the-legend-of-the-rooster-of-barcelos


 


Portugal Trip - Day 18, Barcelos, Lijó, Tamel, Aborim, Balugães

2022-09-18

Portuguese Camino Day 3.  

Metrics: 
Distance walked today = 16.01 klm. Total distance travelled this Camino = 53.39 klm. Duration of walk today = 6:00:33. Pace = 22:31min/klm. Steps = 24.9k

Although much of today was uphill it was the best day we have had so far. We continued our strategy of stopping regularly and although this impacts our split times, it makes for a more enjoyable walk. Having said that, when walking today we seemed to be completing the kilometres faster than the last couple of days. When we left Barcelos this morning we had about 3 km before we escaped the cityscape. After this we were blessed with mainly rural scenes. Being a Sunday most things were closed and there was very little activity on the farms however it was very rewarding walking through the valleys sampling various grapes dangling above our heads in the lane ways and along the stone fences. The other bonus was hearing many different Church bells ringing out across the countryside and various valleys. The other bonus for today was I had the two best coffees I’ve ever had in my life. The first being at Lijó, about about 4.5 km from Barcelos, a little roadside cafe named Arantes. We had another stop and lunch at Cafe 2000 in Tamel. Today we got it right and had a light lunch. Cannot believe how much the Portuguese can fit onto a dinner plate. A little later this afternoon about 2 klm from Balugaes, we stopped at a cafe/bakery named Pastelaria Sra. Lapa in Aborim and enjoyed our second perfect coffee for today. A passing comment on local pricing. This morning we had 2 coffees and a ham and cheese pastry, for lunch we had 2 large bowls of vegetable soup, with bread and 2 sparkling waters, afternoon tea was 2 more cups of coffee. Total expenditure today on substance totalled €11.80. Our accommodation tonight is Quinta da Cancela, now a modern guesthouse but was workers quarters, dating back to 16-17th century. It has been with the current family since the 18th century and was operating as a vineyard as late as the 1970’s. In 2015 the old buildings were renovated to create a guest house oozing with character and old world charm. It was a perfect waypoint to refresh and rejuvenate. The house was large and cool, the yard was green and abundant with rich juicy grapes. The owner was welcoming, friendly and provided a reasonable set meal that evening.


Portugal Trip - Day 19, Balugaes, Seara, Ponte De Lima

2022-09-19

Portuguese Camino  Day 4.  

Metrics: 
Distance walked today = 18.00 klm. Total distance travelled this Camino = 71.39 klm
Duration of walk today = 6:02:31 Pace = 20.08min/klm. Steps = 29.3k

Today was the most beautiful stage of the Camino so far, it was also our hardest day. As we left the village of Balagues we knew we were in for a hot one. It didn’t disappoint. After leaving town we passed through some quiet countryside filled with vineyards and crops. In the distance we could see some mountain ranges and peaks. The d’Arga range on the right and Corno do Bico in the distance. We continued descending into the Lima Valley. It was a very hot morning and although we had some respite in the shady woodlands, the cobblestone paths were rough and tough on our feet. Just after Quinta do Sobreiro we passed our first apple orchards. We made it into Seara just on lunch time having walked almost 13 klm. We lunched at O Farinheiro Bakery. It was here that Joan decided to bail for the day and finish the last 5 klm by taxi. I pushed on arriving into Ponte De Lima just before 2:30pm. The walk into Ponte De Lima is something special. Walking along side a wooded area, the River Lima slowly makes an appearance and once you walk under the road bridge you are looking straight down the splendid Plane Tree Avenue with stunning views of the River Lima and the bridge. Will find out more about the bridge tomorrow, as we are having a rest day tomorrow to do some washing and learn more about this Middle Ages town located on the Roman military road from Braga to Tul.


Portugal Trip - Day 20 - Ponte de Lima

2022-09-20

Portuguese Camino Day 5 - Rest Day

Metrics: 
Distance walked today = ~1.0 klm. Total distance travelled this Camino = 71.39 klm
Duration of walk today = 0:00:00 hrs. Pace = 0:00 min/klm. Steps = ?? Beers = guess it will end up about 10 off.

Today was a rest day so we took care of some domestic stuff. First up we visited the laundromat, some grocery shopping, then had a short walk around town. It is obviously a very old town but it also looks like a party town. The streets are colourfully decorated, there are lots of eateries and drinking houses. Ponte de Lima is the oldest town in Portugal, being the first place in Portugal to get a municipal charter, 4 March 1125. Ponte de Lima is named after the long Romanesque-Gothic bridge (Ponte), with its 22 arches that crosses the River Lima. Considered the most important monument in the county, the Bridge has joined the two banks of the Lima for two thousand years. A unique structure from the time of the Roman Emperor Augustus, it was extended in the Middle Ages, possibly due to a change in the course of the river or due to the ravages of time or war. Tonight we did something special. Although we are not in Spain yet, Joan has been hanging out for Paella. Tonight we sampled some Portuguese Paella and it was definitely a winner, for  now. Will compare when we cross the border in a few days. Time for bed now, have a big day tomorrow. It is going to be hot +32°C and the most challenging section of the Portuguese Camino, 21.9 klm and a total climb of 603m. Strategy is an early start and many stops.


Portugal Trip - Day 21, Ponte De Lima, Arcozeio, Revolta, Labruja Mountain, Rubiãs, Pecene.

2022-09-21

Portuguese Camino Day 6.  
 

Metrics: Distance walked today = 23.90 klm. Total distance travelled this Camino = 95.29 klm. Duration of walk today = 8:25:32 L Pace = 21:09 min/klm. Steps = 35.6K

It was a beautiful day and a brutal day. The forecast for today was 33° C and the itinerary had us climbing a 405 metre mountain. With these conditions it was decided for an early start and it was also agreed that Joan would have a taxi pass today to avoid injuring her knee and spoiling the rest of the Camino. I left Ponte de Lima just on daybreak, crossing the bridge and heading out into the surrounding rural areas. The  first 4 km was undulating but an easy walk through small family farms until I reached the Café Veiga in Arcozelo, which served breakfast consisting of orange juice, freshly squeezed, buttered toast and coffee. It was great. At about the 9 km mark there was a supermarket in Revolta  from which I bought coffee and some fruit to keep me going till lunch. From this point on, the terrain started to climb and it was very steep right through till the 13 km mark. Just before the summit I stopped for a rest at the French Cross or the cross of the dead, which allegedly marks the spot where the local people ambushed and killed the stragglers of Napoleon’s army in the 1809 invasion. There was some relief at the Summit with a water spring providing cool fresh water. I descended the next kilometre with a fellow Aussie from Victoria. I stopped for a break and he carried on. I carried on alone for the next 5 km slowly working my way through Cabanas enjoying a freshly squeezed lemonade from a roadside pop-up store, Café Nunes. After reaching the 2nd century Romanesque bridge at Agualonga over the river Coura, I stopped here in a shady spot for my lunch. From here I was walking on an ancient Roman Road, Via XIX, unfortunately, it was all uphill and unshaded until I reached  our accommodation for tonight ,the Casa Da Capela in Pecene. Here I met up with Joan, waiting in the shaded garden, for a well earned beer and a soak in the swimming pool. Apologies if this blog is a little disjointed this evening, but I am sitting in the garden trying to compose this and there is an obnoxiously loud, nasally Pennsylvanian women disturbing the peace by sharing her views with the whole world. The neighbours to the property, we are staying at, have come out on their verandahs to see where the fog horn is coming from. Apologies.


Portugal Trip - Day 22, Percene, Valença

2022-09-22

Portuguese Camino Day 7.  
 

Metrics: Distance walked today = 13.02 klm. Total distance travelled this Camino =  108.31 klm. Duration of walk today = 4:18:40 Pace = 19.51 min/klm. Steps = 20.6K

Today was a pretty cruisey day. For starters it was overcast and a short and easy stage. We had a late breakfast, not being available until 8:00am but we were still on the road by 8:45am. The walk started uphill for a short time after leaving the accommodation but then gradually worked its way downhill until we crossed a Romanesque bridge over the River Pedreira. From there on the terrain was fairly level leading us into Valencia, just on lunch time. We had a couple of stops today. The first was at the 4 klm mark, Fontura. Then arriving in Valencia just on midday allowed us to have a light lunch on the outskirts of town before walking the last 3 km into the centre of town to our accommodation. Valença is on the River Minho, which forms the border between Portugal and Spain. This afternoon we visited the Forte of Valença, the fortification of the village that dates back to the transition from the 12th to the 13th century. The fort was intended to defend the village and the crossing of that stretch of the river. The old town is surrounded by bulwarked walls. Built in the 17th century the defence structure is comprised of 2 polygons and moats of different depths and widths. Today, this medieval structure comprises of shops, restaurants & historical sites inside the fortress walls. We have a rest day tomorrow being our last full day in Portugal. Friday morning we cross the steel bridge over the River Minho into Tui, Spain.


Portugal Trip - Day 23, Valença

2022-09-23

Portuguese Camino Day 8 - Rest Day 
 

Metrics: Distance walked today = 0.0 klm. Total distance travelled this Camino =  108.31 klm? Duration of walk today = 0:00 Pace = 0:00 min/klm. Steps = 0

Today being a rest day we had a late start. After breakfast we walked around the corner to a laundromat.  I also tracked down an optometrist to fix my sunglasses that were in need of repair.  After all the domestic items were taken care of we caught a cab across the river into Spain to visit the Cathedral of Santa Maria Tui. The cab ride over was only a few minutes but when entering the old city it took driving in narrow lane ways and alleys to another level. With a van parked in one street, the taxi driver had to seek help from nearby workers to get through with about one cigarette paper each side to spare. The cathedral was of Romanesque and Gothic style and was adorned with altarpieces and paintings from the 16th and 17th centuries. The construction of the cathedral began in 1120 and looks like a fortress as it played an integral role in the the city’s defence, back in the day. This Spanish cathedral has a slightly different appearance to the standard Portugal cathedral. The cathedral, though similar was not as opulent and nowhere near as much gold. The views from the cathedral across the River Minho to Portugal were spectacular and gave us an entirely different perspective of the Valençian fort. Like Portugal everything closes down around 1 o’clock including the cathedral so it was time to find some lunch. We enjoyed a pizza in a little alleyway not far from the church before returning to the hotel for nanna naps. I also did a price check on alcohol in Spain. It was impressive. Guess the Spanish do not pay much tax on alcohol. Tomorrow we walk again. We also put our clocks forward one hour.


Portugal Trip - Day 24, Valença, Tui, Porrino

2022-09-24

Portuguese Camino - Day 9. 


Metrics: Distance walked today = 23.75 klm. Total distance travelled this Camino =  132.06 klm. Duration of walk today = 8:44:02hrs. Pace = 22:03 min/klm. Steps = 36.9K

Today we had an early start. It was to be a long day so we left Valencia 7 am. We walked across the steel bridge to Tui. Crossing the bridge gave us a different perspective of the Cathedral of Saint Maria, Tui. We climbed the hill into the old town past the cathedral we had visited yesterday and then moved onto the north of Tui walking through one of Tui’s oldest suburbs. This being our first walking day in Spain we were pleasantly surprised at the condition of the Way. We were also presented with the coolest day we have had so far. On leaving Tui we walked through small farmlets and woodlands, through the Lauro Valley which has been described as one of the most beautiful tracks on our pilgrimage. It did not disappoint. In fact the whole day consisted of gravel or tarmac back lanes and dirt tracks between hamlets with little or no interaction with cars. We detoured off the original Way which has been industrialised and we choose the newer and greener walk;  Camino Complementario. It was a good choice, following creeks and rivers for most of the day. We had a number of stops today. Firstly coffee at the 5 klm mark, Pexegueira. Then we stopped at Fevers Bridge for a snack. Next stop was a roadside table to do some running repairs on our feet and take the opportunity for another snack(perhaps our lunch). A little later about 2:00pm we came across a hotel, Taberna Tia Maria. We stopped here for lunch. It was a raucous crowd of pilgrims and locals. Then when entering Porrino we got lost. We pushed on in the general direction and eventually found a pub. After an ale, we discovered we where actually on track. Only a 4 minute walk to our destination. This evening’s accommodation being a little different. Being off the Way, we were collected at a nominated point and transported a short way out of town to the Hostal Expo. We are currently rehydrating and relaxing before going down for dinner. We will be returned to the Way tomorrow morning to continue our trek north.


Portugal Trip - Day 25, Porrino, Mos, Redondela, Arcade

2022-09-25

Portuguese Camino Day 10. 


Metrics: Distance walked today = 23.45 klm. Total distance travelled this Camino =  155.51 klm. Duration of walk today = 7:38:03 hrs. Pace = 19:32 min/klm. Steps = 36.5K
 
Today was another brutal day. After a good night’s sleep we started out, nice cool morning and it was a gentle climb, to start with, but we had two mountains to scale today. At about the 5 km mark we stopped for our first coffee of the day at the village of Mos. After that we started to climb Rua dos Cabaleiros. It was only a gentle climb but it seemed to go on forever. At the summit of 235m we stopped at a shady park to check out and give our feet a rest. We then started a slow descent eventually arriving at Bar Baqueiro where we stopped for another coffee and use of their restrooms. There are very few (bordering on none) public restrooms in either Portugal or Spain).  I also attended to a new blister, big toe right foot. After this rest stop the road really dropped away. It was a very steep decline. At the bottom we carried on for a while before stopping at a bus shelter for lunch eating a cheese sandwich that we had had packed earlier. Joan was starting to feel the effects of the steep descent and at the 15 km mark, just after we had our first glimpse of the Ria do Vigo, called  for a taxi. I continued on and walked through the town of Redondela, and exited through the old town. Once again the streets started to climb. This climb wasn’t as long but it was very steep and I had to have a number of rest points along the way climbing through the forest to Alto Da Lomba. I hooked up with a South African guy of about the same age and by distracting each other we eventually reached the summit , with an easy downhill 2 km run into Arcade, our overnight accommodations. Walking down we had some more excellent views of the River Vigo. Have now had a few beers, hydrated and showered and heading out for a seafood meal. Arcade is located on the coast of the North Atlantic Ocean. The seafood meal was extremely good. Tomorrow we head for Pontevedra.


Portugal Trip - Day 26, Arcade, Pontevedra

2022-09-26

Portuguese Camino Day 11.  
 

Metrics: Distance walked today = 13.22 klm. Total distance travelled this Camino =  168.73 klm. Duration of walk today = 4:21:01 hrs. Pace = 19:44 min/klm. Steps = 21.8K

Today’s walk was relatively easy. It was just after 8:30 am when we left the motel and had an enjoyable walk out of town of Arcade. After navigating some narrow streets we made our way down to the River Verdugo and crossed  the mediaeval Sampayo Bridge into Ponte Sampayo. Immediately after crossing the bridge it started to climb up cobblestoned alleyways and ultimately countryside then forests. It was a gradual climb to an altitude of 145 m, over the next 4.5 km. Although not that steep and mainly shady woodland, along well formed pathways, it was probably about 0.5 km too long. We did encounter another busker this morning in the forest. It is the third Spaniard we have come across in the middle of a woodland playing the bagpipes. Thankfully the remaining 8 klm was downhill then relatively level. We had a short break at some picnic tables at an unknown hamlet, before we made our way into Gandaron and stopped for a well earned coffee. Rather than follow the tarmac road into Pontevedra we elected to follow the River Pobo through shaded woodland before it delivered us to the outskirts of Pontevedra. We easily located our accommodation, the Hotel Avenida. We arrived before our bags so we headed out for some lunch. It was about 1:30pm. I still can’t get over and do really appreciate the fact that you can go to a bakery and order a baguette and a beer for lunch. That’s what we did. Back at the hotel by 2:00pm, still no bags so another beer before the bags turned up, a short time later. A shower, a clean set of clothes, a nanna nap and then out to explore the town. This afternoon I visited the Iglesla de La Peregrina (18th Century) and the Convent Church of San Francisco (14th Century). Being Monday evening many eating houses are shut. We were not sure where to go for dinner. In the alley behind the hotel we saw a small square with a Tapas bar and kids kicking footballs. We ventured down and watched the locals at play and enjoyed some incredible hamburgers.


Portugal Trip - Day 27, Pontevedra, San Amaro, Caldas de Reis

2022-09-27

Portuguese Camino Day 12.  

Metrics: Distance walked today = 23.06 klm. Total distance travelled this Camino =  191.79 klm. Duration of walk today = 7:18:14 hrs. Pace = 19:00min/klm. Steps = 35.9K

Today’s stage was fairly long but not that difficult, and most of it was through pleasant countryside. Not a lot of photos today, just another day at the office. We left Pontevedra in the dark. It was a pleasant enough walk through the ancient streets before leaving the city behind us, and entering an attractive woodland. About 5 klm from the city we came across a coffee vending machine and an entrepreneurial prepay restroom. This pleased Joan no end, as it was the first public toilet we have come across since arriving in Spain. We carried on for another 5 km through shaded and green country before arriving in San Amaro, for our second coffee of the day. About 6klm further, just before the National Park of Ria Barossa we stopped and had lunch. About 2klm from Caldas De Reis we came across a bar in Barro and stopped  to rest our feet and have a beer. We arrived at our accommodations just after 3:00pm. We were delighted to find they have a thermal pool. Took us no time to change and spend sometime reviving ourselves in the pool, followed by a session in the tavern before heading out for dinner. Have to admit since crossing the border into the Spain the cooler days have certainly made the Camino more enjoyable. Us now being ‘game fit’ has also helped. The improved walking tracks, amount of shade, treed areas, lack of competing with motor vehicles, less urban areas and the number of coffee/tapas/bars/pastry shops, on the route have made for a more pleasant Camino experience. We are now only 44 klm (2 days) from Santiago, the finishing point for this Camino.


Portugal Trip - Day 28, Caldas de Reis, Padron

2022-09-28

Portuguese Camino Day 13.   

Metrics: Distance walked today = 19.86 klm. Total distance travelled this Camino =  211.65 klm. Duration of walk today = 6:20:06 hrs. Pace = 19:08 min/klm. Steps = 30.5K

Today was another day at the office. It was a relative easy day though we had isolated light showers all day. The first wet day of our Camino. It was almost 9:00am by the time we left Calais de Reis. It was sprinkling from the get-go, but it was not cold and really not a nuisance. The terrain was undulating but kind to us,  and we spent all day walking through woodlands and vineyards, predominately along creeks and rivers. It was also one of those days that every four to five kilometres we would cross a road, find a coffee shop/bar then walk back into the forest. We maintained our strategy of stopping often, and for at least 30 minutes. We also shared the Way today with a number of Spanish school kids (about year 8 or 9). We could hear them coming. They were singing and laughing. Some groups had boom boxes playing music, for them to sing along with and dance as they moved through the forest. Many of the boys were running up all the hills to impress the young senoritas. They were certainly enjoying themselves and quickly got ahead of us. We were walking at about half their pace. The first coffee stop was at the 5 klm mark, the second at the 11 klm  mark,  where we also had lunch. Then, as has become our habit, about 500m from our nightly accommodation we pulled up at a pub to rest the feet and have an ale. We have got to love and depend on the Spanish bar snacks that always accompany a beer or wine. When you order a drink the publican also provides beer snacks. So far we have enjoyed potato chips, trail mix, peanuts, endless bowls of olives, cheese, warm chopitos, fried baby squid and tuna with pasta. A uni student here could almost live on €1.30/day being the cost of a draft beer and the associated bar snack. Loving it! The accommodation we are staying in tonight was the country house built in the 16th century,  by the Archbishopric of Compostela. After decades of neglect, it has been restored, opening in 2006 as a hotel and restaurant, managed by Posadas de Compostela. Have to complement Auswalk Walking Holidays, our service partner, in organising our accomodation itinerary. Tomorrow we will arrive in Santiago and complete our Camino. I will provide a final update before we head for Madrid Saturday, for our flight home.


Portugal Trip - Day 29 Padrón, Santiago Compostela

2022-09-29

Portuguese Camino Day 14.  

Metrics: 
Distance travelled today = 25.28 klm. Total distance travelled this Camino =  236.93 klm. Duration of walk today = 5:16:17hrs. Pace = 15:20min/klm. 

It rained over night and it was still drizzling when left the hotel this morning. During the walk through Padron the intensity of the rain was increasing. By the time we got to the middle of town, we had to make a decision. Continue walking 20 klm along wet and muddy lanes and dirt tracks, then 8 klm through urban areas into Santiago. Pilgrims of old probably would just have had a day off and waited for better conditions. We didn’t have that luxury, so the decision was easy. Complete this journey by train. We walked another 1 klm to the railway station and after a short wait covered the 21 klm to Santiago in 28 minutes (a little quicker than the 8 hours we had expected). It was still showering when we arrived in Santiago. Another 2 klm walk had us in Praza do Obradoiro, the big square in front of the Santiago Cathedral. We then lined up at the Pilgrims Office to receive our Compostela - the official certificate offered by the cathedral authorities for meeting the requirements of the Camino. For €3 they also certified the distance we walked.  A further 700 metre walk had us at our accommodation for the next few days. We plan to utilise tomorrow to have a proper viewing of the cathedral and Santiago de Compostela. We stepped out this evening and it started to rain just as we left the hotel but it soon passed, and  we enjoyed a great tapas meal alongside the Santiago Cathedral.


Portugal Trip - Day 30 Santiago de Compostela

2022-09-30

 Portuguese Camino Day 15.  

The cathedral is the reputed burial place of Saint James the Great, one of the apostles of Jesus Christ. The construction of the Santiago Cathedral began in 1075. We started the day with the pilgrim ritual of visiting the chapel in the main alter to ‘embrace’ the Apostle Saint James and then see the crypt where his remains are buried. Whilst here a mass was in progress and we able to join it for the last 15 minutes, from the blessing of the Eucharist, the Our Father, peace be with you ritual and communion. After the mass we went around to the main square to obtain our tickets to access the towers of the medieval facade of Mestre Mateo, so that we could walk on the roof of the cathedral. The roof climb provides a unique view of the Basilica, as well as the surrounding urban area of Compostela. On the climb up, the first stop was a rostrum that provided our first full view of the Cathedral’s interior and its architecture. Climbing further up we emerged onto the roof. We spent almost 40 minutes up here walking all over the roof and seeing the towers and townscape from all angles. We also got some unusual views of the interior again, through a number of windows above the altar. Just when we thought we were about to depart we entered the second tower and went higher up emerging onto a verandah at bell height. More incredible sights. After lunch we visited the Church Museum which included the history of the building, Chapel relics, Cathedral library, textile art, the cloister and the Balcony on Obradoiro (the main square). Took us about 2 hours to cover this lot before we retreated to visit the church proper. Kept thinking of Marie, my mum, whilst here and how she would have reacted/enjoyed this experience. We did burn a candle for Mum and Dad, at the main altar, before leaving. We missed the pilgrims mass at 12 noon as we were roof walking, so did not get to see the swinging of the gigantic botafumeiro (thurible) incense burner that hangs in the nave of the transept. Went a bit overboard today with the photos, but hopefully the few I post here will bring back pleasant memories for Simon, Deb and Annemarie who have also visited here. Thanks again Simon, for recommending the roof walk; it was a very special experience.


Portugal Trip - Days 31 -33

2022-10-01 to 2022-10-04

Santiago de Compostela, Madrid, Dubai, Melbourne, Brisbane, Rockhampton.  

Saturday, was our last day in Spain. We had a quiet morning at the motel, packing our bags, showering and in general preparing ourselves for the 35 hour marathon trip from Madrid to Dubai, Melbourne, Brisbane and ultimately Rockhampton, 7:00pm Monday evening. We called a taxi about 10:45am to deliver us to the Santiago railway station. We travelled from Santiago via Ourense to Madrid via high speed rail. It was a fast train travelling at 248kph for some parts of the trip. It was a pleasant trip through Spanish countryside and farming communities. We passed through a number of mountains and I lost track of how many tunnels we went through. According to Google it is a 465klm trip comprising 50 tunnels and 79 viaducts. It took us a little while to navigate Madrid airport and locate our departure gate. Our plane departed on time 10:10pm and we arrived in Dubai on schedule at 5:00am Sunday morning. Our connecting flight to Melbourne was delayed about 2 hours. Although we were a little more relaxed about Dubai this time around, we still had some difficulties in getting to Terminal 3 and locating  our departure gate. It involved numerous escalators, the metro and a bus trip. The flight to Melbourne was an A380-800 Airbus and although 13 hours, a comfortable flight. Even got to watch the Penrith - Parramatta NRL grand final live on Foxtel while crossing over the Indian Ocean. As we arrived late into Melbourne, Monday morning, we were fast tracked through border security and customs by Emirate staff, less our luggage, as we only had twelve minutes from exiting our plane to be checked in on our domestic flight to Brisbane. Twenty five minutes after stepping off one plane we were in the air on our way to Brisbane. We spent the day in the Brisbane Qantas Lounge before boarding the Rockhampton flight at 5:40pm arriving in Rockhampton just on 7:00pm. Kathy was there to meet us and as we had no luggage we could walk straight through the airport and head for home. Our luggage was delivered to home, next morning, Tuesday at 9:15am. 

Postscript: I really enjoyed every aspect of this trip and it was a very interesting experience all-round. The people were friendly, helpful and engaging. Both Portugal and Spain are amazing countries with history, sights, great food and wine. I surprised myself by completing the Camino. We did have some tough days but that’s part and parcel of the Camino. I went over there with the intention of determining if it was a viable retirement option. Unfortunately it is, from a financial perspective, but far too many people. The poms have taken over the coastal towns. The main cities Lisbon and Porto are just too crowded, too hilly and expensive, leaving only the country areas. Although the cost of living is very cheap in the country villages, there wouldn’t be a lot to do. Without the ocean or beaches to keep one active and occupied I am afraid country life could result in me becoming coffee dependent, an alcoholic or a drug addict (marijuana is decriminalised in Portugal) or potentially all three as well as ending up fat and lazy. So, as much as I would love to relocate, it’s just not practical.  So, looks like I'll be staying in downtown Bouldy for a little bit longer.


Anchorage to Seattle Tour 2023 - Day 3 - Majestic Princess

2023-08-20

We are on the Majestic Princess doing a cruise from Vancouver to Anchorage. Today was our first day at sea. It was a little windy this morning, so there was no morning walk around the 17th deck (the exercise track), rather straight to the coffee shop followed by a substantial breakfast in the main dining room. We did do some walking after breakfast exploring the decks we didn't cover yesterday. We did get some exercise; more importantly, I think we have now unearthed all the restaurants, cafes and bars scattered around this ship. (Twenty-four off by our count).  The sun did eventually come out but the wind did not drop, so the seas got a little choppy this afternoon, but so far so good. Been a fairly quiet day, resting, watching passing whales and bar hopping. This evening we joined our friends Michelle and Merv for dinner in the Sympony Dining Room. It was formal night, very enjoyable, great company and good food. I enjoyed Alaskan Crab Cake, whole roasted Beef Tenderloin, followed by Peach Melba. Dinner was followed by a musical dance show, Sweet Soul Music, in the Princess Theatre. We then retired to the aft, Wake View Bar, for night caps. I think we could get accustomed to this cruising life.


Anchorage to Seattle Tour 2023 - Day 4 - Majestic Princess

2023-08-21

Early start this morning. The Majestic Princess docked at Ketchikan 6:30am and we disembarked and were assembled on the wharf by 7:15 for our shore excursion to the Saxman Native Village, home of the Totem Pole Heritage Centre. The tour started with a Native Dance Performance followed by an overview on the unrestored totem poles from the Tlingit and Haida villages. From here we were returned to town for our self guided tour of the Creek Street historic district, running along and over Ketchikan Creek, where every summer thousands of spawning salmon return, many not surviving the experience, evident by the number of rotting and decaying fish carcuses lining the side of the creek. The area became a red-light district in 1902 with more than 30 bawdy houses. Today it is a tourist area with the old brothels now housing souvenir shops, jewellery and clothing outlets. From here we moved onto Main and Front Streets, the central downtown area of Ketchikan. Before returning to the ship we stopped at Eagle Park to view the work of master carver Nathan Jackson's 'Thundering Wings'.

The ship set sail at 3:00pm. We congregated at the Wave View Bar for the 'Sail Away'. We dined again this evening in the Symphony Dining Room with Michelle and Merv. Another excellent meal predominately seafood. The show tonight was a double dose of Comedy. Firstly a comic impressionist, Michael Warson in the Princess Theatre, followed by comedian David Koenig in the Vista Lounge. We are expecting another big day tomorrow, arriving in Junea around 8:00am. Hope you enjoy the selection of some of the photos from today's crop.


Anchorage to Seattle Tour 2023 - Day 5 - Majestic Princess

2023-08-22

What a magic day. Woke early this morning as the ship docked in Juneau just after 6:00am. The mornings are getting cooler as we progress north and some persistent snow and ice is still evident on some of the mountain tops. After a hearty breakfast we were on the wharf by 8:15am ready for our shore excursion to Mendenhall Glacier. In transit the bus driver, Jeff, gave us the history of the Juneau and surrounds; Russian occupation, purchase of Alaska, the gold mines, and the changing face of Mendenhall Glacier. It is located about 12 miles north of Juneau, the capital city of Alaska. That's right it is the capital, not Anchorage, as I had always assumed. The glacier was brilliant. It is retreating but still very picturesque. We did not have time to walk to the glacier or the nearby Nugget Falls but we did get a zillion photos and watched the 15 minute movie - Landscape of Change. Apparently Mendenhall Glacier is one of 38 large glaciers that flows from the 1,500 square mile Juneau ice field. Scrambling back on the bus at 10:45am we headed back to town. Spent some time wandering the main street and endless souvenir shops before finding a bar for some lunch and refreshments. After lunch we rode the Goldbelt Tram up Mount Roberts. Not a lot to do on top of the mountain, other than the anticipated souvenir shop, eating establishments and the extraordinary views of Juneau township, Gastineau Channel and the port. It also gave us a good view of our floating home. It certainly is a big ship. And it didn't disappoint this evening for dinner. We enjoyed an Italian themed meal in the Allegro Dining Room before attending a Tribute to Ed Sherrin show in the Vista Lounge. Ercobel was entertaining but no Ed Sherrin. After this, now a tradition, we relocated to the Wake View Bar for Sail Away and nightcaps at 9:30pm. Tomorrow we wake up and get to explore Skagway.


Anchorage to Seattle Tour 2023 - Day 6 - Majestic Princess

2023-08-23

Today started early. We were woken at 5:30am by a commotion outside of our stateroom. Opening the curtains, onto our balcony we could see seaman lowering the tender suspended adjacent to our room. Apparently this tender was to be used to ferry guests from the ship to shore today. Being awake, we made our way up for an early breakfast before donning our backpacks and heading out for a day in Skagway. 

Skagway is only a small town, permanent population only being 1,300. The population doubles in the summer tourist season to deal with more than 1,000,000 visitors each year. Most arrive by cruise ship. Broadway Street and the intersecting avenues are very colourful and lined with well preserved buildings from the gold rush era. These preserved historical buildings have now been converted to coffee shops, souvenir and jewellery stores. The time warp is enhanced by a number of tourist trains that still operate to take tourist over White Pass into the Klondike. We arrived  in town just on 9 o'clock and zigzagged our way down Broadway, the main street. By 11:00 o'clock it was absolute bedlam. With four cruise ships in port there were roughly 12,000 visitors. At lunchtime we joined our organised bus exercuion, which included a town tour, a short drive to the Canadian Border before returning to town stopping at the town overlook to get photos of the Skagway township and our ship in the port. On the outskirts of town we stopped at the Lower Reid Falls Gold Rush Cemetry to view the graves of Jefferson (Soapy) Smith and Frank Reid, the main characters of the 'Days of '98 Show', a one hour musical, which we watched at the conclusion of our town and surrounds tour. At 5 o'clock we caught up with the Australian contingent for happy hour before joining Merv and Michelle for supper in the Allegro Dining Room. A quiet but exciting day tomorrow. We stay on the ship all day, cruising Glacier Bay.


Anchorage to Seattle Tour 2023 - Day 7 - Majestic Princess

2023-08-24

Today was a day of firsts. It was our first full day at sea. No waking up in a port or excursions ashore. It was also the first time we have seen sea otters in the wild. We were amazed to see the otters floating by in open water. They looked very relaxed and important lying on their backs as they wizzed past. Apparently they often sleep while drifting along. With the speed and height of the boat it was difficult to get a good photo, but they were numerous and kept us entertained for ages. It was also the first time we really got to use and enjoy our balcony. We spent most of the day cruising Glacier Bay. The ship slowly moved into Glacier Bay taking us past Lamplugh Glacier and stopping at both John Hopkins and Margerie Glacier giving us plenty of time to admire and photograph the incredible sights. The weather was very kind to us, with the glaciers appearing very blue in places and the skies even cleared to give us a sunny clear view of Mt Quincy Adams. While at Margerie Glacier we were also fortunate enough to witness the glacier calve. Calving is when chunks of ice break off the terminus, or end, of a glacier. Ice breaks because the forward motion of a glacier makes the terminus unstable. The resulting chunks of ice are called “icebergs. All around it was a very surreal morning witnessing the beauty and grandeur of Mother Nature. We also found time between each glacier to get some laundry done, in preparation for the next stage of this trip. We disembark the ship Saturday morning and head for Anchorage. The other first today, was the cold weather. It was the first time since arriving in Alsaka that we felt cold. In fact it was a very cold day for the entire time we were at Glacier Bay. 


Anchorage to Seattle Tour 2023 - Day 7, 8 & 9 - Anchorage

2023-08-25 to 2023-08-27

I haven’t posted for a couple of days as we have had a couple of late nights resulting in sleeping rather than blogging. Apologies if this blog is a little bit longer than normal, but I do need to catch up. I do enjoy sharing our travels with you, but the ulterior motive is to ensure I have a record for future reference and as a memory jogger in years to come. Anyway, Friday (Day 7) was our last full day on the Majestic Princess. It was also the day that we visited College Fjord. This Fjord is located in the northern sector of Prince William Sound. The fjord contains five tidewater glaciers, five large valley glaciers, and dozens of smaller glaciers, most named after renowned East Coast American colleges.   It was also here that the Exxon Valdez oil spill occurred, on March 24, 1989. Exxon Valdez, an oil supertanker owned by the Exxon Shipping Company, bound for Long Beach, ran aground in Prince William Sound, spilling 11 million gallons of oil. Fortunately there is no evidence of this disaster here today. Unfortunately though for us it was a very wet, overcast and foggy day, making it difficult to fully enjoy and appreciate the many glaciers in this ice field. I have included a few grainy photos to share my disappointment, but appreciate you will understand it is what it is. But regrettably no clear photos to share with you. Friday evening we had a group dinner onboard with the Australian group making up the Anchorage to Seattle 2023 RV Tour, in the Symphony Dining Room. Michelle and Merv joined as this was also our last meal with them. We really appreciated their company and them sharing this time with us. We still can’t believe that they went to the trouble of joining us and sharing this cruise with us from Vancouver to Whittier. We arrived in Whittier about midnight. We disembarked from the ship around 8 o’clock Saturday morning. It was a teary and heartfelt farewell with Merv and Michelle, who met us at the gangway,  as we departed the ship. We stepped off the boat and onto a very wet wharf in Whittier. Whittier has quite a history, which we learnt all about during the two hour wait for our Anchorage transfer bus to arrive. Whittier is located at the head of the Passage Canal enjoying a deep ice free port which was used as a secret port by the United States military during World War ll. Thanks to a 2.5 mile hard rock tunnel it is now only 58 miles to Anchorage. The once military town is now almost deserted but has become a port of call for cruise ships. It is now the embarkation and debarkation point of one-way cruises between Vancouver and Anchorage. Once we and our bags were loaded onto the bus we headed for Anchorage. It was a two hour drive, arriving at the Wingate Hotel around noon. As we were unable to get access to our hotel room before 3 pm and it was still overcast with patchy rain we caught an Uber to the 49th State Brewery in downtown Anchorage for a nice lunch and a few beers. After our early morning and liquid lunch we returned to the hotel, gained entry to our room, booked an Uber delivery meal to the room later that evening and had an early night. This morning (Sunday), well rested and refreshed we decided to do a self guided walking tour around Anchorage. The first stop was the ‘Welcome to Alaska’  mural, on the corner of 5th Avenue and Fairbanks Street. On the way to the next waypoint,  we turned a corner near the Sheraton hotel, and stumbled upon a carpark full of vintage cars. In this group of cars was a green 1963, EH Holden sedan with Victorian number plates. Speaking with the driver,  Phillip Blunden and his wife Lyndy, they were taking part in the Alaska to Mexico car marathon. They were just awaiting roadworthy checks, before they were underway. A real surprise, but always nice to see a well presented EH and running into fellow Aussies overseas. We then had a short stop and coffee break at the Anchorage Museum before heading off to walk the Tony Knowles coastal track. We walked around the coastline as far as Earthquake Park which provided a great silhouette of Anchorage against the Chugach Mountains in the distance. Having already clocked up 12 kilometres we started walking back through the suburbs to locate Walmart. We ended up calling an Uber and travelling the last few kilometres by car. We did a familiarisation walk around the many isles of Walmart, picking up a few necessities and snacks for the next few days. We pick the RV up on Tuesday afternoon so we will have to provision it before for head off into the vast area north of Anchorage so we thought it was appropriate to do a sortie of Walmart today. We returned to the hotel for a late lunch, then headed out again, to locate the Captain Cook monument and have another walk around the downtown area before returning to the hotel for a stroll up Ship Creek, which is conveniently located just behind our hotel. It’s now getting late (9:20pm), though still daylight outside. Have just ordered another Uber meal; a pizza from Papa Johns. The app tells me that he is only three minutes away so I gotta finish for now and get downstairs to collect our dinner. Take care and I will endeavour to catch up sometime in the next few days.


Anchorage to Seattle Tour 2023 - Days 10, 11 & 12 - Talkeetna

2023-08-28 to 2023-08-30

We have covered some miles over the past three days involving various modes of transport. Monday was a very early start. We boarded the Alaskan Rail Coastal Classic train just after 6:00am  for a 4.5 hour train ride from Anchorage, through Girdwood, Portage, Spencer Glacier, Grandview, Moose Pass, arriving in Seward at 11:30am. The passing scenery, mountains, greenery, numerous lakes, rivers and canyons were amazing, putting our senses into overdrive. Unfortunately we could only see items close to the track as we were at the mercy of the fickle Alaskan weather.  It was a very foggy, overcast morning. We passed a number of glaciers but they were only ghostly outlines in the distance. One can only imagine what the passing views and vistas would be on a clear blue sky sunny morning. The colours and reflections off the mirror top lakes would be a photographers dream. By the time we got to Seward it was raining. With an hour to kill before departing on our 4-hour whale watching cruise we bunkered down in a seafood cafe enjoying some warm seafood chowder and hoping the skies would clear. They didn't; we cruised around for 4 hours, chasing an elusive Orca Whale pod, just catching a glimpse of a tail at one point. We did however see floating otters and sea lions. Back at the wharf at 4:30pm, still drizzling we returned to our lunchtime cafe for a hearty feed of fish and chips before being collected by our transfer bus at 6:45pm. Three hours later we were back in our hotel room in Anchorage. A big day covering over 250 miles plus 4 hours cruising, but not many photos. The weather is definitely something we have no control over. Tuesday we woke to clear skies and the excitement that we knew we would be collecting our RV's today and starting our trek through Alsaka, down through Canada, Yellowstone and ultimately ending up in Seattle. Van inspections and inductions were concluded by midday and we headed out of Anchorage, heading for Warsilla. We spent 2 hours here at Walmart picking up all the necessary provisions for the coming days. While Joan did the majority of the shopping I took the opportunity to drive out to Phillip  Flippo's place, a local photographer with the Alsaka Frontier group, to collect some 2024 calendars. Phillip has quite a backstory and a number of his photos appear in the calendar. We overnighted in Talkeetna, as it was planned to take a one hour flight around Mt McKinley, also known as Denali on Wednesday morning. You guessed it, the  rain and cloud cover resulted in the flight being cancelled. We utilised the now available free time to take our time driving to the Denali National Park stopping at many locations in the hope of sighting this now elusive mountain peak. It is the highest in North America, with an elevation of 20,310 feet (6,190 metres) above sea level. Our last hope is to view it tomorrow, before we depart for Fairbanks. The other disappointment this evening is the cloud cover has not lifted, therefore we have also missed out on capturing the Super Blue Moon. Reportably the last one until 2037. Sometimes you just can't win a trick. Not to worry, we get to do it all again tomorrow. Alsaka although unpredictable is certainly beautiful and alluring. We are really enjoying being back on the road, away from the crowds and the queues. The Alaskan roads have been good but are starting to deteriorate as we push north. The RV we have is a petrol engine, Ford E-450 and it really has some grunt. The decision is still out on the question of RVing versus caravaning. The RV certainly has some positives. They certainly seem more roomy and the black and grey water systems are better technology than what we have. They also use propane (LPG) for their heating system which is going to be very useful and seemingly economic. I have also been alarmed with the fuel economy. Alaskan unleaded petrol is US$4.449/gallon and we are using 11.35 gallons/100 mile or getting 8.81miles/gallon. If my conversion calculations are correct that equates to A$1.82/ litre resulting in an eye watering 26.6 litres/100klm or only 3.7 klm/litre. Hopefully that is incorrect as I have to admit it is late and accuracy cannot be guaranteed. Anyway hope to update again when we get to Fairbanks. Stay well and happy.


Anchorage to Seattle Tour 2023 - Days 13 & 14 - Denali

2023-08-31 to 2023-09-01

The rain has continued to follow us. We woke Thursday morning in Denali Park to an overcast sky and the chances of actually viewing Denali were very low. Mid-morning, we headed out to the Denali national park. It was still sprinkling when we arrived at the Information Centre. The centre had a colourful Alaskan diorama, displaying all the Alaskan wildlife. We also watched an 18 minute documentary on the seasons of Alaska and hatched a plan for the day. Private vehicles are only allowed to drive to mile 15 in the National Park; after that visitors have to catch shuttle buses to go deeper into and closer to Denali. As it was not likely we were going to view Mt McKinley because of cloud cover and the road was blocked at mile 43  due to a rockslide, we elected to drive to mile 15 and do a short walk on the Savage River Trail. After a short excursion around Savage River, we drove back to mile 13, to the Mountain Vista Rest Area. As it was close to lunchtime, we decided to make lunch. One advantage of our home on wheels. Fortunately for us, the skies cleared a little during our lunch break, and we were able to do a short walk around the  Mountain Vista Trail, actually getting to see the outline of both south and north Denali. The mountain has two peaks with the southern peak being the taller of the two.  Heading back into town we also stopped at mile 9, getting another glimpse of the elusive McKinley. The confusion with the names results from the mountain originally been called Mount McKinley, but in recent years reverting to the indigenous name Denali, which means ‘tall mountain’. The overcast and cloudy conditions were a little disappointing, but the autumn colours and the walk in the pristine fresh air, was certainly reward enough. Also missing from today was the is sighting of wildlife. The closest we got was some fresh bear scat that we come across on the Vista Trail. Thursday evening, we went to a local dinner and musical production at the Gold Nugget Saloon. The meal consisted of a home cooked style, all you can eat, made up of brisket, salmon, mashed potato and veggies, followed by apple crumble and cream. It was delicious. After dinner the wait staff transformed into actors and presented the 50 minute show. The production was a very entertaining and informative musical about the conquering of Denali. The 20,310 foot mountain was first summited by Harry Karstens and Archdeacon Hudson Stuck, June 7, 1913. Friday morning, as now is the custom, we woke to an overcast wet morning. In fact, it rained all the way from Denali to Fairbanks, our next stop. We did stop at Nenana, the midpoint between Denali and Fairbanks. It is a small small town that looked pretty enough, but we didn’t venture too far as it was wet and miserable. We arrived at the Rivers Edge Resort RV park, in Fairbanks, just on lunch time. Once again as we had lunch, the skies cleared a little, and although we had intermittent showers all afternoon, we enjoyed a rain free visit to the North Pole, about 17 mile out of Fairbanks. It is a small town mainly devoted to the Christmas theme, with Santa Claus house, the North Pole Post Office and the Reindeer Academy. Glad to report that we got to talk with Santa and confirm the current behaviour and the general rundown of our grandchildren. We also enjoyed viewing and feeding his reindeers. That’s all for now. Stay happy and we will have some further updates of our travels in a couple of days.


Anchorage to Seattle Tour 2023 - Day 15 - Fairbanks

2023-09-02

Saturday, the weather gods smiled down on us. The rain stopped,and the sun was shining in Fairbanks. In the morning we had a quick drive around downtown Fairbanks and visited a Fred Meyer store, similar but in some ways better than Walmart. After lunch, we had a 3-hour cruise on the Discovery lll, a river paddleboat, along the Chena River. This turned out to be an amazing cruise. The business is run and the boat captained by a fourth-generation Binkley family member. Over the years they have put together quite an impressive itinerary and river experience,  which covers general information and history, uniquely involving people living on the river and the First Nations people, the Athabaskan's. Shortly after departing from the dock, there was a bush pilot demonstration, by a woman pilot, who took off in a float plane, circled around and landed back next to the paddleboat. During this whole exercise the conversation between the boat captain and the pilot was broadcast throughout the boat. This conversation summarised the history and role of aeroplanes in the interior of Alaska. After this, we moved further down stream, stopping at the Trail Breaker Kennel,home of a local, now famous, woman Susan Butcher after winning the Iditarod dog sled race,  four years in a row with Granite, the greatest lead dog in Iditarod history. Unfortunately Susan passed away from leukaemia in 2006, now her husband and daughters carry on the story of this champion. On our cruise Teckla Monson, one of the the daughters, provided the commentary and dogsled demonstration.  From here we moved further down stream arriving at the Chena Village Living Museum. A village built by the Binkley family to demonstrate and explain how the Athabaskan's lived and survived for over 10,000 years, then adapted to western culture. The first exhibition here was an interchange between the commentator on the boat and a local Athabaskan woman about catching and smoking salmon and its role in feeding both husky dogs and humans. From here we went to the mouth of the Chena River, where it flows into the Tanana River. Here the captain skilfully turned the boat around, and we started heading back towards Port. When we got back to the Chena village, we  docked. Everyone disembarked from the paddleboat and the local first Nations provided an incredible walking tour of the village, covering topics such as hunting, making clothing, cooking, role of animal fur pelts, and demonstrating spruce bark huts. All in all, it was a good afternoon on the river, both enjoyable and educational. Back on land, we made a dash back into Fairbanks. We wanted to catch the 6 o'clock, Ice Caving demonstration at the Fairbanks Ice Museum, on second Avenue. From our time, living in Canada we have an appreciation of ice carving, thanks to the competitions we attended in Fort St John each year. For this reason we were keen to revisit this experience. The ice sculpting demonstration wasn't to the world standard we had experienced in Fort St John, but this ice sculptor was entertaining and provided a good overview and environment for visitors to appreciate ice sculpting, firsthand. We also had hopes of seeing the northern lights this night.  Unfortunately we set the alarm for the wrong time, and did not see any. However, some of our fellow campers were more fortunate and lucky enough to pick the right hour and got some incredible photos. Tomorrow we're off to Chicken. It will be our last full day in Alaska, before we cross the border to Dawson City in the Yukon, Canada. I'll update you once we get there.


Anchorage to Seattle Tour 2023 - Day 16 - Chicken

2023-09-03

We woke up Sunday,  Father's Day in Australia but not here. It was an overcast but dry morning. Today, being our  last full day in Alaska we drove east from Fairbanks along the Alaska Highway to a place called Chicken. It was a picturesque and enjoyable drive spending most of the morning scouting the Tanana River as we slowly started to climb. It didn't take too long after leaving Fairbanks we started to following the Alaskan ranges giving us a triple dose of beauty, the forest, the river and the snow capped ranges. About halfway between Delta Junction and Tok we stopped at a pull-out and had lunch looking out onto the nearby mountains. A number of the sections of the highway were very straight and undulating, often giving us a great view of the mountain range, sometimes through the the windscreen, other times through the rearview mirror and other times through the side windows. After refuelling in Tok we stopped on the east side of town at the new Tanana River Bridge to enjoy the vista behind the town. It was here that we turned off the Alaskan highway onto the Taylor Highway to take us to our destination in Chicken. This was an interesting drive. Not only were we climbing most of the way but the bitumen gave way to a gravel road. Portions of the gravel road were excellent. Other portions were reminiscent of forestry roads, while other parts brought back memories of driving from Borroloola to Hells Gate, travelling from the Northern Territory back to Queensland. The RV did not handle this well; drawers came open, doors opened, the microwave rattled itself loose. A number of screws were found on the floor as were all the cushions from the dining lounge. Fortunately no real damage and running repairs were carried out when we arrived in Chicken. Chicken is a unique interesting little place, as interesting is its name. In 1886, Chicken was the mining hub of the Fortynine district, ten years before the Klondike Gold Rush. Miners still work the surrounding hills but now it is just a small colourful town with quirky little stores and two RV parks.  Being so isolated, and with no peripheral light I thought it would be a perfect opportunity to capture the northern lights. I set the alarm for 11 pm to find overcast sky, so I reset the alarm for 1:30 am and still overcast, but looking to clear so I stayed awake till almost 3 am. Unfortunately the cloud cover didn't lift and no northern lights were captured. Monday we carry on towards the border and should cross into Canada sometime before lunch. Will update once we get to Dawson City. Take care  and stay happy.


Anchorage to Seattle Tour 2023 - Day 17 - Dawson City

2023-09-04

Monday, we breakfasted early and hit the road, very excited as this morning we would cross the Alaskan US border into the Yukon at the Canadian border. We had also been advised this was the last day we could enter Canada by this road as the border station was closing at 6:00pm that evening for winter break and would not reopen until sometime next April. The road from Chicken to the border was still gravel. It was still rough and it continued to knock the RV around. It was a slow trip due to the road conditions and the fact we had to stop every few miles to check no major issues or damage. One mile from the Canadian border the gravel road turned to a new well surfaced, bitumen road and we thought the worst was behind us. We arrived at the border just on 11:30am. We had no issues or dramas with the border staff who stamped our passports and granted us access. The bitumen ended abruptly and we entered Canada on The Top Of The World Highway, regrettably still a gravel road. As the RVs had arrived in convey at the border we congregated on the Canadian side and walked to the top of the apex, only a short walk and added our rocks to the cairn erected at the 'top of the world' and took some photos to mark the occasion. Unfortunately the gravel road continued all the way to Dawson City. We ended the day having travelled 108 miles of gravel road. A short time after crossing the border the microwave in our RV completely vibrated loose and the surrounding bracket gave way. We had to stop and carry out running repairs. I MacGyvered a solution whilst Joan prepared lunch. Having lunched and deciding the microwave was adequately secured, not usable, but secured we carried on. It was an interesting drive uphill and down dale, and it really did feel like we were on the top of the world. One last surprise, arriving on the outskirts of Dawson City, we found ourselves on the west bank of the Yukon River, lined up to catch a ferry to cross this wild looking untamed river. Once on the town side we quickly found our RV Park; got settled in and then went for a walk around town. Only one street in Dawson city is bitumen, the remainder of the town remains with gravel roads and wooden sidewalks.  We very quickly decided that we liked Dawson City, a neat, little town purposely maintained and trapped in a time warp, of the 1890's early 20th century. We visited the information centre, did a quick walk around Main Street,  called into the Dowtown Hotel, Sourdough Saloon, for a drink before, returning to the park to join the others for happy hour and plan the morrow. Other than exploring and learning more about Dawson city, we will need to visit a hardware store and get some washers and larger screws to make more permanent repairs to the RV doors, drawers and microwave oven. I look forward to sharing our findings of Dawson City tomorrow evening. Take care and talk to you again then.


Anchorage to Seattle Tour 2023 - Day 18 - Dawson City

2023-09-05

We woke to an overcast day, breakfasted and headed out on foot, just after 9 o'clock as we had decided to do the guided town walk. We met our tour guide, Sue at the information centre. She was dressed in period costume and started the tour across the road near the 'Keno' paddleboat on the top of the levee bank. From here we walked along Front Street down to Queen Street and up to 2nd Avenue where we visited the bank of British North America to learn more about the gold rush and the role of bankers in these goldrush towns. From here we moved up to the corner of Princess Street and Third third Avenue to the Red Feather Saloon. It was here that Sue shared an insight into the hardships and loneliness for the men of these frontier towns. To conclude the tour, Sue moved us back down third Avenue to King Street where we entered the old Post Office. Mail obviously being an important factor for the the miners and people of this gold mining town. On conclusion of the tour we made our way to the hardware store to pick up a selection of screws and washers to repair the RV. For the second day in a row, while Joan prepared lunch, I went about securing and fixing the microwave, assorted doors and cupboards in the RV. After lunch, we packed up the RV and headed to explore the surrounds. First stop on our self-guided tour was the Woolly Mammoth statue, created by artist, Halin De Repentigny. Woolly mammoths roamed the Yukon in abundance during the Ice Age. Since the Klondike Gold Rush of 1898, placer miners seeking gold have unearthed thousands of fossil bones, tusks and teeth of woolly mammoths from the permafrost. From here we drove out along the Klondike River. I had not mentioned this before, but Dawson City is located on the convergence of the Yukon and Klondike Rivers. There's also a third tributary, Bonanza Creek. From the Klondike side of town, we drove to the Midnight Dome look out on Grouse Mountain,  behind the city, providing an overview of the whole area. The lookout gets its name as the city folk gathered here on June 21, 1899 to see the midnight sun. The sun actually set at 11:30pm and rose again 2 hours later. No one, from that time on, has expected to see the midnight sun on the solstice but the Dome remains a popular spot for sightseeing and celebrating the long summer nights. The elevation of the Midnight Dome is 2911 feet. After admiring the view and watching a paraglider take off from the summit, we headed back down to fill the vehicle with fuel in preparation for our long drive tomorrow. After happy hour with the gang, Joan and I joined Kevin and Lyn, fellow Aussies, for a meal and a few drinks at the Downtown Hotel, in the Sourdough Saloon, home of the Sourtoe Cocktail; a rite of passage for visitors to Dawson City and a unique way of raising money for the Humane Society. It's simple a shot of whiskey with an unusual accompaniment: a mummified human toe. Apologies for all the photos this day. We were really taken with Dawson city and all that it has to offer. Joan went as far to say 'she could live there'.


Anchorage to Seattle Tour 2023 - Day 19 - Whitehorse

2023-09-06

Wednesday was a travel day; we were relocating from Dawson City to Whitehorse. It was a long drive, but fortunately, predominantly on bitumen. A total of 332 mile or 535 kilometre drive. We left Dawson City shortly after 8 am. Traveling south down through Stewart Crossing (181 klm) where we had a short break. It was then on to Pilley Crossing(250klm) where we stopped for lunch. After lunch we continued south, passing through Carmacks(356klm) and then making a few short stops along the Yukon River and then passing and stopping at a number of large lakes. One thing the Yukon appears to have is plenty of water. The final stop before reaching Whitehorse was a small roadhouse in Braeburn (423klm). It is located opposite a grass airstrip, and it's claim to fame is cinnamon rolls. Yes we bought one, and it was very sweet. In fact we are still enjoying it. The locals tell us that pilots fly in daily just to buy the rolls. The reason for the airstrip across the road. We arrived in Whitehorse just on 4:30pm. Once we were settled into our RV park, we headed back into town to buy some supplies. The downtown area of the city did not seem very appealing in peak hour; a number of one-way streets and lots of vehicles. Whitehorse appears to be a government town with the main industries being mining (gold, copper,lead, zinc and silver) along with oil & gas entities, as well. We found both grocery stores and liquor stores to be quite expensive. Whitehouse is located on the historic mile marker, 918 on the Alaska highway. We will have a more intensive look around tomorrow and get a better feel for the place and what it has to offfer.


Anchorage to Seattle Tour 2023 - Day 20 - Whitehorse

2023-09-07

After a big drive yesterday and another long drive tomorrow, we decided to have a quiet day today and not do too much. After a late breakfast, we headed out around 10am.  The first stop was just up the road from the RV park at the Miles Canyon. It is an impressive canyon with wild waters charging through the narrow canyon walls. A number of stampeders trying to reach the Klondike gold fields in 1897 & 98, lost all their gear and sometimes their lives when their crudely built boats were smashed against the walls of this canyon and sank. We crossed the suspension bridge over the canyon and had a short walk along the canyon walls. It was here that we come across our first wildlife for the day, a friendly squirrel. From here we ventured into town to visit the S.S. Klondike, the largest sternwheeler to operate on the Yukon River.  It was originally launched in 1937, and it now sits alongside the Yukon river at the southern entrance to the city. Unfortunately with the tourist season coming to an end this exhibit was closed, so we moved further into the CBD and had a quick visit to the original Anglican Church build entirely of logs, in 1900.  It is now a museum. Being located near a grocery outlet, we took the opportunity to do some shopping and pick up some lunch. We took our lunch out to the Whitehorse dam and fish ladder. The Whitehorse Dam was constructed in 1959 to provide hydraulic electricity and flood control. With the construction of the dam they also constructed the worlds longest wooden fish ladder to allow the spawning salmon to still reach the creeks where they were born. This interpretive centre provides quite an excellent explanation and commentary on the life cycle of the Chinook salmon. A short summary is as follows.

"Responding to genetic and environmental triggers, the adult chinook salmon leave the Bering Sea in early summer and begin a 3,200-kilometre (almost 2,000-mile) journey up the Yukon River to the exact location where they were originally spawned several years earlier. They don't eat during the three months it takes them to swim from the Pacific Ocean to Whitehorse, relying instead on stored body fats for energy. Their journey is a perilous one. Most of these salmon become victims of predation, starvation and fishing. Only a small portion of the original number survives to pass through the Whitehorse Rapids Fishway. From there, they continue on to the Upper Yukon River tributaries, where they, like their parents, spawn and die, completing their life cycle."

On the run home, we stopped at the Yukon Baringa Interpretive Centre where we spotted a fox near the carpark. We have travelled just over 1,200miles and so far the only wildlife we have seen, has been in Whitehorse - a squirrel and a fox. The Interpretative Cente takes visitors back 10,000 years to the last ice age when woolly mammoths, scimitar-toothed cats, and other megafauna roamed the Yukon landscapes. We stayed for a guided tour before continuing for home, but not before stopping at the worlds largest weathervane, an original Canadian Pacific airlines DC3 passenger plane that is mounted so perfectly on a pedestal, at the Whitehorse International Airport, that the slightest breeze causes it to swing around to point into the wind. The last job for the day before happy hour was to refuel the RV in preparation for our trip to Watson Lake  tomorrow. After yesterday's effort it took 159 litres (CAD$305).  I have finally worked out the unleaded fuel economy of this truck. It is an eye-watering 26.5 L/100km or 3.76 km per litre. The current fuel price converts to A$2.17 per litre. Anyway I am not sure what time we will get to our destination tomorrow, but I will update our day first opportunity. Cheers Peter


Anchorage to Seattle Tour 2023 - Day 21 - Watson Lake

2023-09-08

Another early start this morning as we expected a long day on the road. It was overcast when we left Whitehorse at 8:00am and it started sprinkling not long out of town. Our first stop was at the Teslin River. From here, we had intermittent showers all morning as we travelled east along the Alaska Highway,  parallel to Teslin Lake for much of the morning. We had another short stop at Swift River with a planned lunch stop at Ranchera Falls. Unfortunately, I missed the turn off, so we waited for the next pull out for our lunch stop, leaving us only 80 km to reach our destination of Watson Lake. As we took off after lunch the sun push through and things were looking up, then all of a sudden the sky was filled with smoke. It looked as though we were passing, or heading into a forest fire. As luck would have it as we crossed  the river at Upper Liard, the smoke dissipated, the skies turned blue, and the sun returned. This was quite a relief as we don't need the additional stress of a forest fire. We arrived in Watson Lake mid afternoon, quickly refuelled and set up for the night at the Downtown RV park. We then strolled back to the Main Street, to the Sign Park forest, which is described in the visitors information pamphlet as "the world famous signpost forest.  Watson Lake's best known attraction. So famous it is known and mimicked all around the world." The forest started in 1942 by home sick U.S. Army GI, Cowell K. Lindley of Danville, Illinois. The backstory to the Sign Post Forest, in Watson Lake, is as follows:

In 1942, during construction of the Alaska Highway, the United States Army Corps of Engineers erected mileage posts at their camps that listed places, distances and directions in the Yukon, other Canadian cities, cities within the United States of America and also other parts of the world. One of these posts was erected at the corner of the Alaska Highway and the road to the Watson Lake Airport, where the Sign Post Forest stands today. The original post is the only mileage post of its type to survive from the Alaska Highway construction.

Carl Lindley, a soldier of Danville, Illinois working on the highway with Company D, 34 Engineers, in 1942 was injured and sent to the aid station at nearby Watson Lake where he spent three weeks recuperating. Not able to do much work the C.O. asked if he could repair and repaint the sign that had been run over by bulldozers. He asked if he could add his hometown sign of Danville, Illinois as he was homesick for his hometown and his girlfriend Eleanor...' . He added his hometown sign to the army signpost and started a time-honoured tradition. People from all over the world now continue to add their own hometown signs to the Sign Post Forest on a daily basis in the spring, summer and fall. In 1992, Carl Lindley returned with his wife, Eleanor, to Watson Lake for the first time since his departure in 1943. He was overwhelmed when he saw the size of the Sign Post Forest. At a sign re-enactment ceremony, he replaced the original Danville, Illinois sign that had rotted away long before. The Sign Post Forest is one of the best known attractions along the 2,414-kilometre highway from Dawson Creek, BC to Fairbanks, AK. At the end of 2004, signs in the Forest numbered almost 55,000. In 2023 the number was in excess of 100,000.

Tomorrow we drive south into British Columbia and some familiar territory. Hoping it is a fine day as we really want to go swimming at Liard Hot Springs, one of our favourite spots we discovered during our stint here 2012 - 2014.


Anchorage to Seattle Tour 2023 - Day 22 - Fort Nelson

2023-09-09

We rolled out of Watson Lake just after 7 am this morning. Only a few minutes later we crossed the border into British Columbia - 'the best place on earth'. Not my words but those of the BC government. Do have to admit though, shortly after we crossed the border, the sun starting to shine and we ran into wildlife after wildlife after wildlife. Within a kilometre of crossing the border, we passed bison and a fox. Not much further down the road we come across a mama blackbear with two cubs and more herds of bison. A little bit further on, yet another trio, mother, and two cubs, one being a beautiful cinnamon bear.  For the next half hour or so we travelled through low level cloud and then ran into a series of roadworks. The cloud, dust and sun shining through on the autumn leaves certainly presented a most impressive palate of colour and texture. No one can compete with Mother Nature. The first stop of the day was at Liard Hot Springs. Joan and I had both been looking forward to getting back here. It was one of our favourite places in Canada. We often talk about this place and our visit here, back in 2013. It felt really surreal to be visiting here again. We certainly enjoyed the swim and the experience of the hot mineral waters at this unique location. After our swim we carried onto Muncho Lake. Just on the outskirts of Muncho Lake we came across some wild sheep on the side of the road. Muncho Lake certainly looks different this time of year.  In 2013 we were here in March and the lake was frozen, the mountains were covered in snow and everything was black-and-white. Today, it was green, brown and blue. It was also, unfortunately veiled by a smoke haze, which did detract form the scene somewhat. I also have to say, I think the roads were better when covered in snow and ice, certainly not as rough as the well worn bitumen we travelled on today. We lunched at the Northern Rockies Lodge before heading off on the remaining 240 km we needed to cover to reach Fort Nelson. The afternoon drive although a little long, and also involving more road works was still quite pleasant driving through the Rockies with many river sightings and breath taking vistas. Near Toad River, we came across an elk and a calf and a little bit further down the road we come upon an adolescent male cinnamon bear. All up, it was a very fruitful and enjoyable day with many wildlife sightings, pleasant blue skies, warm weather, and endless rugged country. One of those days where you don't know whether to look out the front window, side windows or the rear view mirror. Turning every corner was a picture postcard moment.  Hope you enjoy the small selection of the photos included.


Anchorage to Seattle Tour 2023 - Day 23 - Hudson Hope

2023-09-10

We left Fort Nelson just on 8 o’clock this morning and drove straight into smoke haze. We had about 450 km to travel to our destination at Williston Lake Resort. The majority of the morning was very smoky and hazy. In fact we drove past and through many square kilometres of burnt out forestry. Not sure if this was a result of fires this year or previous ones, but certainly large areas north of Fort St John have been devastated. With the smoke, devastation and the fiery red sun poking through it was not surprising we did not to see any wildlife, other than two moose. We also had a nostalgic moment at Sasquatch Crossing were we got to recreate a photo of Joan we had taken  with the Sasquatch 29 March, 2013.As we approached Fort St John, the smoke did lift and the sky returned to blue. We stopped at Charlie Lake for lunch. There is also little bit of nostalgia attached to Charlie Lake. When visiting Fort St John we often had a picnic lunch here and when visiting High on Ice, an annual ice sculpting competition, each February, we came here to watch pond hockey on the frozen lake. We also enjoyed sleigh rides here as well.  After lunch, we headed for Hudson Hope. Merv, was right we couldn’t believe the earth works and infrastructure changes around Hudson Hope in preparation for the new dam. We also had a little bit of drama on arrival at Williston Lake Resort. One of our fellow RVer’s slipped off the road while attempting a 3-point turn. The Resort owner came to the rescue with a tractor. We also had our first and hopefully only flat tyre for this trip. I will not bore you with the details but changing a wheel on a dual wheel Ford E450 is not fun. Glad i got to have this experience at an RV park and not on the side of the road. I am also glad fellow Aussie, Kevin, was on hand to help with the tyre replacement. He did most of the the heavy lifting. The other milestone for today is, it is hump day for our trip. We are halfway through our Alaskan Canada, USA trip. We will be arriving home three weeks from today. Coincidentally we are also roughly halfway through our road trip which started in Anchorage and concludes in Seattle. We have completed approximately 3800 km and we have 3500 km to go. We are travelling with 23 other Australians in 12 RV’s.   The tour was put together by American Canada Motorhome Tours through Menai Travel & Cruise. Glad to say this tour organiser has assembled a great bunch of people. We do not have a lot of interaction as we are all travelling independently, but do hook up late each afternoon after arrival at the agreed destination and generally have a happy hour to swap stories and experiences from the days travel. We obviously pass one and other at regular intervals throughout the day, as we travel along doing our own thing. Because of the dry conditions and the number of forest fires experienced in North America this year fire pits have been banned in most places we have visited. The good news is Williston Lake resort has allowed a fire pit this evening meaning happy hour will definitely be extended. Anyway time to go and stand in some smoke and talk some bullshit. So that's all for now, I’ll get back to you tomorrow and update you from our next location, Bear Lake on Crooked River. 


Anchorage to Seattle Tour 2023 - Day 24 - Crooked River

2023-09-11

Today was a perfect day in all aspects except for the weather. We woke up at Williston Lake Resort,  just out of the Hudson's Hope and we were on the road by 8:00am. We arrived in Chetwynd by 9:00am, as planned, and dropped our punctured tyre at a tyre shop.  We then headed to Tim Hortons for breakfast and to catch up with Joan (and her husband Bill) and Paula. Joan and Paula, work colleagues, from Peace River Coal (PRC) that I worked with from late 2011 through to 2014. I had not seen or had much to do with either of them since the closing of PRC. They both still live in Tumbler Ridge and I was pleased to learn that they and their families, are healthy and seem happy with their lot in life. We had a marvellous catch up on the gap years and shared some wonderful stories and memories. We parted company just before midday. We then took the opportunity to get a load of washing through the local laundromat and also collected our now repaired and roadworthy tyre. Next we checked out the latest crop of wood carvings to adorn the streets of Cherwynd. Every June Chetwynd hosts an International Chainsaw Carving Championship, with the resultant carvings remaining in the town, initially being displayed near the Information Centre before being placed in permanent positions around the town. The town now boasts almost 200 wood carvings. We visited the annual championships each year whilst living in Tumbler Ridge. Next item on the agenda was a quick burger at A &W before we hit the road heading south to Bear Lake at Crooked River. The disappointing part of the day was the ever increasing smoke haze. It got very heavy just after leaving Chatswood and did not improve, actually getting  worse as we approached McKenzie. We had a couple of stops along the way, the first being Azozetta Lake and also at Bijoux Falls. As always, there were Steller's Jay (Blue birds) to be found in the car park at the waterfall. Unfortunately not a lot of wildlife today. Once again we put this down to the presence of the smoke. We did, however, see a number of white tailed deer, just out of Hudson's Hope, this morning and one solitary black bear just north of Bear Lake, this afternoon. Fortunately the air quality around Bear Lake improved significantly just after we arrived and we enjoyed happy hour on the shores of this beautiful lake. Back on the road again tomorrow.


Anchorage to Seattle Tour 2023 - Day 25 - McBride

2023-09-12

Not a lot to report on today. It was pretty much just another day at the office. We woke to light rain at Bear Lake and we were on the road by 8:15am. The light rain turned into intermittent showers during the short drive to Prince George. We spent most of the morning in Prince George doing some grocery shoppping and fueling up. The highlight was visiting a Marks Store. Marks was one of our favourites back in 2012-14. It is basically a safety clothing store that sell all sorts of hi-viz and workwear clothing but also specialises in warm weather clothing, particularly Helly Hansen (HH), Canada Goose, flannelette shirts and jeans. They are also well known for their sales. As luck would have it they were having a store wide 60% off sale today. Joan took advantage of this and picked up a Denver Hayes polar neck woollen jumper for C$10. We travelled as far as the Bowron River before pulling up for lunch. After lunch the intermittent showers turned to full on rain. This along with ongoing road works detracted from the drive and turned it into a bit of a chore. The autumn colours could still be made out in the passing forest but there was no wildlife and the nearby mountains virtually invisible. We do appreciate that the Canadians would be pleased to be getting this rain and hopefully it will bring about an end to this summer of forest fires. It certainly will improve the air quality and that is something that we are also grateful for. We did take a break at the Ancient Forest Provincial Park. We were surprised to find 5 other Sunseeker vans already parked up there. Some of the gang were already there. The rain convientantly eased giving us the opportunity to enjoy a 20 minute walk through the ancient tall trees. Once back in the car the rain got fair dinkum again and it was a slow 97 kilometre drive into McBride. The RV Park tonight , Beaverview RV Park, McBride, has been a standout. It is grassed with a great backdrop of the McBride Range. The amenities are good and the owners, David and Jill, put on a fire and cooked some sausages for all the Aussies to have on bread rolls with ketchup and mustard. Tomorrow we head for Mount Robson, only about 80 kilometres down the road.


Anchorage to Seattle Tour 2023 - Day 26 - Mt Robson

2023-09-13

We woke to a cool morning in McBride. As we will not have any service hook-ups at Mt Robson we filled up the potable water tank and emptied both the black and grey water holding tanks before doing a run around McBride to see what has changed in the past ten years. In short nothing. It looked and felt exactly as it had in 2013. We then moved onto Rearguard Falls and the Terry Fox Provincial Park Lookout. There was more water flowing over the falls than our last visit. It is however, still a beautiful river and location. Terry Fox lookout was unchanged but still a place of reflection. His story and achievements were remarkable and it is easy to understand why the Canadians got behind him and his legacy is still being carried on. Briefly his story is:

“Terry Fox knew personally how great the need for cancer research was. At 18 years, he was told that his right leg would have to be amputated above the knee as a result of bone cancer. During his time in hospital and the therapy that followed, Terry saw the pain and despair of other cancer patients and was deeply moved. The only way to stop that pain was to find a cure and since funds for cancer research were in short supply - Terry decided to do something to help. His plan was to run from one coast of Canada to the other, and along the way, he had asked for a $1.00 donation from each Canadian in support of cancer research - for a total of $24 million. He called it the Marathon of Hope. Before beginning the actual run he had covered over 4800 km (3,000 miles) in training in 15 months. On April 12th, 1980, Terry dipped his artificial leg into the Atlantic Ocean in St. John's, Newfoundland, then turned and began running westward. The Marathon of Hope was underway. For the next 143 days, he ran the equivalent of a marathon every day- 42 kms (26 miles). On September 1st, 1980, near Thunder Bay, Ontario, well over half way home to British Columbia - Terry was forced to stop his run. The cancer had spread to his lungs and 24 million Canadian hearts ached for a national hero. Terry died on June 28th, 1981 one month before his 23rd birthday.”

From here we drove to Mt Robson, unfortunately the top of this 3954 metre mountain was covered in cloud. We kept vigil all afternoon. A few times it looked as if it might clear but each time a cloud veil would creep back down the mountain before the summit was exposed. I gave up at 3:30pm as I needed to get home to cook the moose, that Bill had given us in Chetwynd, on Monday. I braised Bill’s preserved moose with fried onions and potatoes. It was a real hit at happy hour. Thanks Bill, everyone appreciated your gesture. Many thanks. As  7:00pm rolled around, just as happy hour was winding down, word came through that the mountain was free of cloud. A flurry of activity had us down to the crossroads, the closest uninhibited view of Mt Robson. Success! Fifth visit to Mt Robison and fifth clear view of the summit. 5 from 5. Sometimes things just fall into place. Tomorrow we revisit Jasper. 


Anchorage to Seattle Tour 2023 - Day 27 - Jasper

2023-09-14

Today was a great day. We woke to clear blue skies, though rather cold in Mt Robson and the mountain summit was free of cloud and proudly on display. We packed early and left the campgrounds just on 8:00am. We backtracked to the Provincial Park boundary and took the traditional Spooner photo standing under the sign with the Mountain Goat. After filling up our coffee mugs with shop bought drip coffee we headed for the Alberta Border and Jasper.. It was only an hour's run before parking up in the Jasper Skytram carpark. The Condola ride up the mountain to view Jasper from the heights of Whistler Mountain was a standard waypoint when bringing visitors to Jasper. This time round we were hoping to trek to the top, something we had not attempted previously. The first bonus of the day was the sky was so clear we had a unexpected good view of the snow capped Mt Robson in the distance, some 80 kilometres away. We did climb someway towards the summit but lack of time and oxygen left us 350 metres short. We did get some exercise, lots of fresh air, some great views and a couple of good photos before retreating to the Skytram station for the 9 minutes trip back down the mountain. From here we drove out to Pyramid Lake, north of Jasper township. We spent a glorious week here between Christmas and New Year, 2013. At the time of that visit the lake was frozen and everything was covered in snow. We  revisited there today including a walk to Pyramid Island to see it all, in colour, rather than the black and white winter scene of 2013. Once we had fueled up, as we are heading for Banff tomorrow, we sought out our RV park for this evening, Whistler Campgrounds. We have been told it is the largest RV Park in North America. It certainly looked big from Whistler Mountain. The difference tonight is we have not been allocated sequential camp sites, rather they have scattered us all over the park. This certainly played havoc with happy hour plans. There also seems to be an abundance of wildlife in the park. We were warned about bears and elk rutting when we booked in. So far we haven't seen any bears, in the park, but have seen a number of elk and the associated bugling from the males, advertising their fitness to the cow elk and showing off to other bulls. Thats all I have for now. Hope you enjoy the selection of photos.


Anchorage to Seattle Tour 2023 - Day 28 - Banff

2023-09-15

An absolutely brilliant day all round. We were expecting a big day travelling from Jasper to Banff, following the Canadian Rocky Mountains down the Icefields Parkway (Highway 93N). We were not disappointed. As we had not travelled the first 150 kilometres of this road we were excited to be exploring new territory. We left Jasper just on 8:00am, clear blue skies and with a long list of ‘Points of Interest’, along the way. As expected it was a day of stops and starts, some walking and lots of photos. All in all we had 15 waypoint’s today, as follows:

We still had 43 kilometres from Peyto Lake to reach Lake Louise, which would have been our last stop for the day, but the carpark was full and closed when we arrived there,  just before 4:00pm, so we sailed on by and carried on the final 60 kilometres to our RV Park in Banff; Tunnel Mount RV Park Village ll. After a short delay at registration, RV’s backed up outside the gate and down the road. Turns out this massive park was completely booked out this evening. Our reservation was fine and we were soon hooked up at site C20 and enjoying happy hour with the Aussie crew. As we have visited Banff a number of times, tomorrow will be a service day, doing washing, cleaning the RV and doing some shopping. Should be a short blog tomorrow night. 


Anchorage to Seattle Tour 2023 - Day 29 - Banff

2023-09-16

We spent the day in Banff. Banff has never been a favourite of ours as it was over commercialised 10 years ago. It is now unbearable. The marketing campaign has worked too well. The destination has been oversold, and the businesses and infrastructure cannot cope with the daily number of visitors, and this is not even  peak season. There is not sufficient parking in town or at the major attractions like Lake Louise and Lake Moraine. They have introduced a C$21 parking fee at Lake Louise and no vehicles are permitted to drive to Lake Moraine. This is on top of the daily C$21 Park fee every visitor is charged. Likewise in town, visitors are encouraged to leave their vehicles at their accommodation and buses are being provided to compensate for lack of parking near and around the CBD. It was reported that Lake Louise carpark was full by 8:00am this morning. The shops and restaurants are overcrowded and overpriced; C$60 for two hamburgers and a beer for lunch. We did not have any expectations or touristy things planned for here, but the people we are travelling with are disappointed. The Information Centre advised them; all the major attractions are booked out 48 hours in advance and if you do not prebook you miss out. We had always planned to leave tomorrow morning, the remainder of the group are booked in here till Monday. I suspect a few will cut their losses and leave early as well. On a happier note, we all went out for supper, this evening as Lynne and Kevin are not continuing to the US, as they have already been to Yellowstone etc. We will catch up with them again in Vancouver for  the return flight home. This is an opportunity to explain the subtle differences between an Australian Caravan Park and a North American RV park. In Australia, most parks have a camp kitchen. These are virtually non-existent over here. Only logical explantation I can come up with is the ever present risk of bears and the need to be super diligent with food scraps and keeping the area around your van free of food, scraps and dirty pots and pans, including bar-b-que plates and grills. This discipline probably cannot be guaranteed in a shared space. Most site hook-ups in North America include power, water and sewerage disposal, for both black and grey waste, available at each site. Must say it works well. Certainly different and more convenient than the general use dump points provided in Australia. Generators are tolerated in most parks on sites where power is not supplied, including National Parks during nominated hours. Power is also supplied in many National/Provincial Parks. Likewise dogs are permitted in all RV parks including National Parks, along with the usual must be leashed and cleanup requirements. The other major difference is quiet hours. Australian quiet time is normally 10:00pm to 7:00am. Over here quiet time is 11:00pm - 7:00am along with the rider; no alcohol, drugs or fires after 11:00pm. Cannabis is now legal in Alaska and all the Canadian provinces we have travelled through. 


Anchorage to Seattle Tour 2023 - Day 30 - Fort MacLoed

2023-09-17

Sunday, we woke up in Banff to light rain. As it was a travel day we were on the road by 8:30am heading towards Calgary, 100 kilometres away. The skies had cleared by the time we approached Calgary. Skirting around the outskirts of the city we missed a turn on a detour around major roadworks and spent 30 minutes getting back on track. Today we were heading south for a world heritage listed site near Fort Macleod, not far from the US border. There was an obvious change in landscape today. On leaving Calgary we left the mountains behind and the plains opened up. Flat country for as far as the eye could see. Dual divided carriageways made easy driving and certainly reduced the fuel consumption. We stopped at a little place called Nanton and we were surprised to find out it was home to the Bomber Command Museum. The site ‘Head-Smashed-In Buffalo Jump’ was placed on the World Heritage List in 1981 as a site of outstanding universal value forming part of the cultural heritage of mankind. The prehistoric Plains Indians stampeded herds of buffalo over a cliff and then butchered the animals killed or injured by their fall. We had planned to visit this site back in 2013, but it never eventuated. We rectified that today. It certainly is an interesting site with an impressive five story building housing the story, history and artefacts of the Plains Indians and the American bison. Some of what we learnt today may help you to understand the significance and history of this place.

The hunting process was described as follows: ‘Preparation began days before the hunt as cairns (small piles of rock) were located and made larger with brush, earth, and dung. The cairns, spaced 5 to 10 metres apart, stretched many kilometres west into the gathering basin and formed the drive lanes. Like a funnel, the lanes converged to a narrow exit at the cliff. Several young men, the buffalo runners, located a herd and slowly directed them into the lanes. Buffalo saw the cairns as solid walls and moved deeper into the funnel towards the cliff. At the last moment the buffalo were startled into a stampede. Unable to stop, they fell from the cliff. A successful hunt would probably have killed several hundred buffalo. The last hunt was carried out around 1850.

The unusual name, according to legend, came about because a young brave wanted to witness the plunge of buffalo as his people drove them to their deaths over the cliffs. Standing under the shelter of a ledge, he watched the great beasts fall past him. The hunt was unusually good that day and the bodies mounted, he became trapped between the animals and the cliff. When his people came to do the butchering, they found him with his skull crushed under the weight of the buffalo carcasses. Thus, they named the place "Head-Smashed-In." 

Archaeological evidence indicates that this site was used by Indigenous people for communal bison hunts, beginning about 6,000 years ago. Evidence puts  the cliff at that time, about 20 metres high. Each time the jump was used, thick layers of bone, tools, rock rubble and soil built up. Today the cliff is only 10 metres high, making it one of the oldest, largest and best preserved buffalo jumps in North America. 

We are camped at Rivers Edge RV Campground tonight, on the banks of Old Man River near Fort Macleod. It is a quiet and picturesque spot. We will spent some time in the morning visiting the Fort, before moving onto Lethbridge where we will rejoin our fellow nomadic Aussies. We cross into the US on Tuesday morning. 


Anchorage to Seattle Tour 2023 - Day 31 - Lethbridge

2023-09-18

Had a relaxing and quiet day. We woke on the banks of Old Man River, on the outskirts of Fort Macleod . After a full and enjoyable breakfast we broke camp and traveled the 3 kilometres to the laundromat in Main Street, Fort Nelson. By 10:30 all the bedding and clothes were washed, dried and stowed in the RV, giving us plenty of time to complete a self guided tour of Fort Macleod’s historic buildings. The town’s roots date back to the arrival of the North West Mounted Police in 1874. The community grew around the first fort and became a commercial and social hub. Today the Main Street is a showcase of historic buildings, illustrating the architecture and character of Fort Macleod at the turn of the 20th century. There is also a Fort Museum of the North West Mounted Police displaying artefacts of the police, First Nations and pioneer themes. Unfortunately, being past the prime tourist season, the Fort along with many of the businesses in town do not open on Mondays. After lunch we made the short trip into Lethbridge. Lethbridge is a large city so after a brief run into a Supermarket and Liquor store we retreated to Bridgeview KOA RV Park to rejoin our fellow Aussie RVer’s and share stories and catchup over happy hour. Tomorrow we head for Great Falls, Montana, USA!


Anchorage to Seattle Tour 2023 - Day 32 - Great Falls

2023-09-19

After a warm night with some rain we woke to a sunny morning in Lethbridge. As per our routine we were on the road just after 8:30am. We had a leisurely drive to Coutts, the Canadian and US Border. We were not sure how this would go, as the US customs website for prohibited items from Canada was vague and even contradictory, so we had decided to declare everything. We sat in the queue for about 30 minutes before being summoned to the border guard's window. He was friendly enough but he soon determined we had meat, fruit and vegetables on board so he requested we pull around the back of the customs hall for further inspection. There was only one arigultural officer on shift so it was another half hour before being attended to. After inspection we were required to surrender a dozen eggs and three tomatoes. The remainder of our fridge, freezer and pantry were compliant so we were back on the road again. As it was now almost lunch time we stopped about 50 kilometres along at a small place named Shelby. It is predominately a rail town surrounded by arigulture. A dirty looking but quaint little town with another early 20th century preserved Main Street. We had lunch in a local eatery, The Griddle. It is a home-style cafe with friendly fast service. The food was good and not too expensive. As promised we left with a full stomach and a smile on our faces. Cannot complain when you get an egg & salad sandwhich, accompanied by a generous bowl of cheese and broccoli soup, with crackers as well as a bottomless cup of brew coffee for under $10. It was only another hour before we were pulling up at our overnight camp in Great Falls RV Park. All in all it was a pretty cruisey day, though surprisingly hazey, although it had rained overnight. A dual divided highway all the way across what seemed and endless plain. The speed limit was 80 mph (or 130 kph). Although the long straight roads and lack of mountains should have improved our fuel economy I still managed to burn almost 26 litres per 100 klm, as I couldn't seem to keep the needle under 70mph and we did have some strong headwinds in a few areas. Fuel is currently US$4.20/gallon which equates to A$1.70/litre, which is a little better than A$2.15 currently being charged in Rockhampton, Australia. Tomorrow we hope to find out why this area is called Great Falls, before moving onto Yellowstone National Park. Our home for the next few days. 

Some metrics to date:
1) Distance Travelled
Train           836 klm
Air           11867 klm.  
Ship          2221 klm  
Road        5389 klm
Total        20313 klm

2) Fuel
Purchased                      1423.9 litres
Cost                                A$2728.32
Average fuel cost            A$1.92/litre
Average fuel economy.   3.78 klm/litre or 26.45 litres/100klm


Anchorage to Seattle Tour 2023 - Day 33 - Gardiner

2023-09-20

What a day of surprises. We left the Great Falls RV park around 8:30 am. The first task today was to satisfy our curiosity as to why this place was called Great Falls. So we drove out to the Lewis and Clark interpretive Centre, as there were a number of power stations and dams shown on the local map near this centre. Immediately an interpretive sign, solved  the mystery. There was not one waterfall, but in fact, five, in a series. The early explorers described it as a place of ‘great waterfalls’ The interpretive sign goes on to summarise it as follows.

‘Hidasta informants described a fall of water on the Missouri River near the mountains, so Lewis and Clark expected a short portage. Instead of one waterfall, Lewis happened upon a succession of five, and their hope for a short portage faded. Standing atop a knoll, now called-Smelter Hill, just upstream, Lewis determined the south shore offered the shortest, most level portage with the fewest ravine crossings. Following Clark's survey, the Corps pulled canoes and gear over 18 miles of unforgiving plains.’ 

From the point we were standing on, we could see, upstream, a dam and power station, now known as Black Eagle Falls. The remaining four cascades are downriver. The 360 foot drop over this section of river offers a ready power source for the township of Great Falls. There are now five dams that lasso the river and regulate its water levels and current. The dams (and cascades) are named Black Eagle Dam (Upper Pitch), then Colter Falls, Rainbow Dam (Beautiful Falls), Crooked Falls, Cochrane Dam, Ryan Dam (Great Falls) and Moroni Dam. Refer the photo of the interpretative sign for this to make sense and see the portage route used by Lewis and Clark.

With a clearer notion of what was what, we decided to travel the 20 minute drive downstream to Ryan Dam also known as Great Falls. It was a beautiful drive and a picturesque spot but unfortunately the viewing location Ryan Island was already closed for winter, so we headed for Highway 87 for the 4 hour drive south to Gardiner, our next waypoint. Driving out of Great Falls it appeared that we would have another day of straight driving on hazy plains. About an hour down the road at Belt we turned onto Highway 89 and immediately started descending into a pine treed valley. For about the next hour we drove through valleys, climbed mountains and drove through foothills, eventually arriving at White Sulphur Springs were we lunched at the Branding Iron Cafe. Like yesterday, the menu was home cooked food and it was delicious. I certainly enjoyed my Reuben sandwich. After lunch we had another change of scenery, driving through grassy foot hills and plains that were more ‘nullar’ than the Nullarbor Plains - there were no trees at all. We then turned off at Walsall and drove over the Bridger Range into Bozeman. We could have skirted around this city but drove right into the downtown hoping to recognise street scenes from the television show ‘Yellowstone’. It didn’t work out too well. The Main Street had roadworks and detours. It is a very busy CBD. In short, we gave up and got out of there. As we got closer to Gardiner, the scenery changed yet again, canyons and white water as we drove through Paradise Valley along the Yellowstone River. Gardiner is the northern gateway to Yellowstone National Park, our destination for the next few days. 

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Anchorage to Seattle Tour 2023 - Day 34 - Yellowstone NP

2023-09-21

We woke to a cool morning in Gardiner. We were a little excited this morning because we were heading to Yellowstone National Park so we quickly had some breakfast and packed up the van. We left Sun Outdoors Yellowstone North RV Park, just after 9:00am. Three minutes later we were queued at the Northern Gate of the park. In exchange for US$35 we were granted entry. We immediately started climbing for about 4 miles before arriving at Mammoth Hot Springs. It was considerably colder here than down in Gardiner. We were immediately greeted by elk. After a visit to the information centre we hatched a plan of attack for the day. First stop was the Travertine Terraces, a short walk from the Information Centre. Travertine Terraces are hot springs that rise up through limestone, dissolve the calcium carbonate, and deposits the calcite, a white chalky mineral that make the terraces. The terraces form colourful stripes due to thermophiles, or heat-loving organisms. We were able to explore the terraces via a series of wooden boardwalks and countless steps. From here we back in the RV, headed towards the Northeast Gate, taking a short stop at  the steel bridge over the Yellowstone River. The next stop was at the Petrified Tree, near Tower-Roosevelt. It was off the main road and there was no RV access, so we parked up and started to walk in. Immediately a passing car stopped and offered a lift into the site. We accepted. Exactly the same story when we started to walk back to the RV. Random Americans paying it forward. At Tower-Roosevelt we turned south. The next stop was Calcite Springs. At first this just looks like a canyon but on closer examination steam is escaping near the water level, indicating it is a hydrothermal area. The heat of the underground fractures releases deposits of oil from rocks deep below and is hot enough at depth to liquefy large quantities of Sulphur. Calcite Springs was named for the milky-white calcite crystals that cover the area. Mixed in with the calcite are translucent, honey-colored barite crystals. After lunching in the carpark of Calcite Springs (we can do that when we are a turtle and have our house on our back) we moved onto Tower Fall; a stunning fall that plunges 132 feet with some unusual rock columns north of the fall created by lava flow, that cracked as it cooled. After leaving, we seemed to keep climbing forever. Just after we reached the summit, it started to rain. As the rain got heavier we decided to abandon the sightseeing and head for the Education Centre. Here we watched a documentary on the Yellowstone super volcano, geysers, hot springs, furmaroles, and mudpots. The rain wasn't easing so we headed for our campsite at Fishing Bridge RV Park. Our fellow traveller's experienced a range of weather events, depending on where in the park they were travelling. We only had rain, others had hail, light snow or freezing rain. It is still sprinkling as I write this. Hope it clears up by morning.


Anchorage to Seattle Tour 2023 - Day 35 - Yellowstone NP

2023-09-22

Friday, we woke in Fishing Bridge to a very cold morning. We dressed and breakfasted early as we had booked a full-day bus tour to visit all the iconic sites, on the bottom half of Yellowstone National Park. The main road system at Yellowstone is a figure of eight. We had come in at the north entrance from Gardner and in essence covered most of the top half of the figure 8, in a clockwise direction, on Thursday, passing through Canyon Village, eastern mid point and travelling further down the arch to Fishing Bridge, our camping spot, midway down the bottom right hand side of the figure 8. At 9:30am Friday, we were collected from the front gate of the RV park by a crusty old bus driver, our guide for the day. From Fishing  Bridge, we travelled further south down the figure 8 to the Lake Hotel to collect more tourists, then continued around Yellowstone Lake south to West Thumb, then swinging in a westerly direction, cross the bottom of the figure 8 to visit Old Faithful. Just as we arrived it started to rain but this did not impact us as we located ourselves under shelter on the first floor of the Old Faithful Inn, filling in time to the predicted next eruption by having some lunch. By 12:30pm a couple of hundred people had gathered to watch the main event, predicted for 12:40pm. After a few false starts Old Faithful did erupt at 12:46pm, some 6 minutes late. Must admit I did enjoy watching it but also have to admit having watched the Yogi Bear cartoon series on TV as a child, and in more recent years, the Internet, YouTube, and other movies did detracted a little from the experience. Because of technology there was no real surprise just confirmation of exactly what we expected to happen, did happen. From here we moved further up the lower half of the figure 8 towards Madison, stopping at the Lower Geyser Basin. Here our crusty, old bus driver took us on a walking tour, providing some background and providing a clear explanation of the hot springs, paint pots and some more about the geysers. From here we moved further north through Madison, stopping at Gibbons Falls, before turning right at Norris Junction, the western centre-point of the figure 8. Then travelling east, we made our way back to Canyon Village and then started moving back down the figure 8 towards Fishing Bridge, stopping off at the Upper and Lower Falls of the Yellowstone River, in the area known as the Yellowstone Grand Canyon. Have to say our tour guide did leave the best till last, delivering us to vistas, waterfalls and coloured cliffs, that didn’t look real and really difficult to capture with a point and shoot camera. The beauty and natural canvas that nature can provide us is both breathtaking and mind blowing. We then had a short run home to Fishing Bridge, arriving back at camp just on 6:30 pm. Have to say it was a very worthwhile and long day, but we certainly appreciated the non-stop dialogue, commitment, depth of knowledge, and energy our (not so grumpy) bus driver shared with us. The forecast had us a little worried with the prediction of -3°C overnight with a high chance of snow. All being well we will move on tomorrow to Pocatello in Idaho.


Anchorage to Seattle Tour 2023 - Day 36 - Pocatella

2023-09-23

Saturday morning wasn’t as cold as we had anticipated. We still had a few points of interest to visit on the figure of eight circular drive around Yellowstone, so we were on the road by 8:30am. Because of the rain event we experienced on Thursday afternoon we didn’t stop to view the rim of the Yellowstone Grand Canyon or the mud volcano near Fishing Bridge. These locations were not covered by the bus tour so were our first stops this morning. We had a walk around the mud volcano and then visited five overlooks along the rim of the Yellowstone Grand Canyon. From here we went drove through Canyon Junction with the intention of calling into the Cascades, centrally located on the centre road to Norris. Unfortunately the access road is posted as not suitable for RVs. so we carried onto Norris and then further south to Madison Junction where we had planned to do the Canyon Drive. Once again, no access for RVs so we turned around and headed back to Madison Junction turned left and headed west towards the exit gate at West Yellowstone. We could not believe the number of inbound visitors. The traffic was bumper-to-bumper. The gate fees I calculated were adding up very quickly. Every 30 vehicles equated to $1050, totalling tens of thousands of dollars, particularly when you consider there are four entrance gates. National Parks appears to be a profitable business. We were even more surprised to see vehicles backed up through the entrance gates and backed up through the town of West Yellowstone. About 58 km west of Yellowstone gate we turned left into the Caribou-Targhee National Forest to visit the upper Mesa Falls. These falls  were recommended to us by a local, so we thought it was worth the effort to take the scenic route. We were not disappointed; the falls are about 120 feet (35 metre) high and about 200 feet (60 metre) wide. From here we moved onto Ashton, our first real stop in Idaho, the state of the potato. We stopped for lunch at a little restaurant called the Trails Inn. The walls were suitably adorned with animal hides and numerous taxidermied animal heads. Both of us had a very hearty lunch and agreed that the fries were the best potato chips we have ever tasted in the world. A big call, but our waitress confirmed this remark was often shared with them. We pushed on, pulling up at the Cowboy RV Park in Pocatello, our waypoint for that day. That evening at happy hour we found out that today September 23 was National Public Lands Day which provided all visitors free access to any National Park to enjoy or perhaps take part in a volunteer work project. All my calculations were for nought and the Parks Services bank balance did not receive all the additional funds I had envisioned.


Anchorage to Seattle Tour 2023 - Day 37 - Twin Falls

2023-09-24

As we only had 130 miles to travel today we had a lazy morning, not packing up the RV and departing the RV Park till just before 10 o’clock. The plan for today what to visit the Zoo Idaho to see the animals that we have missed along the way. For example although we have seen plenty of grizzly bears from our Canadian working days,  this trip we have travelled almost 4000 miles and yet to see a grizzly bear in the wild. The zoo was close to our RV park so we arrived immediately after opening and spent almost two hours walking around the exhibits with Ellie and Craig. There were lots of familiar animals there, including a few we were hoping to see. Unfortunately the grizzly was behind glass and not very cooperative, but eventually he did grace us with his presence. He was only a young bear, but very healthy and fit looking, very well prepared for his upcoming hibernation. The black bear was also being very coy, and would not leave his cave. We were, however able to get good viewing of the raccoon, deer, elk, bobcats, mountain lion, badger, fox, mountain sheep, plus a number of birds of prey. It was only a small zoo, but the animals looked healthy, well fed and their compounds well maintained, airy and clean. After a short lunch we made our way west towards Twin Falls. Not a particularly interesting drive, but certainly quick at 80mph posted speed. We had a short stop at a historical marker for the Oregon Trail and we walked under and around the Perrine Bridge over the Snake River entering Twin Falls. We will explore the town and surrounding areas tomorrow morning before continuing our westward trek. Thankfully another short stint tomorrow, making our way to Boisie. Happy hour was also a little special this afternoon as we celebrated Paddy’s birthday. We are certainly travelling with a great group of people.


Anchorage to Seattle Tour 2023 - Day 38 - Boise

2023-09-25

As we had another really short drive today we rewarded ourselves with a little sleep-in this morning.  After breakfasting and packing up we headed out about 9:30 am. The plan was to have a look around Twin Falls until about lunchtime and then drive the 150 mile (250 km), to Boise, our waypoint tonight  and the capital of Idaho. First port of call this morning was Shoshone Falls. The gatekeeper advised us that the water levels were quite low and not really worth the entry fee or the drive down to the park. He did, however suggest we have a look at the falls from the canyon rim overview. Glad we didn’t spend the money. Shoshone may have been very attractive once, but now with a weir and a power station built over the cascade, it is not very attractive. From here we moved on to the nostalgic and historic part of Twin Falls that we were looking forward to - The Evel Knievel Jumpsite. All that remains of this historic event is the earthen ramp that was built for the occasion. The facts being:  ‘On September 8, 1974, Evel Knievel prepared for the most spectacular stunt of his life - a jump over the Snake River Canyon. Thousands of spectators gathered on the canyon rim, and millions more tuned in on television to see if even Evel had a breaking point. The National Anthem was sung, speeches were given, and the countdown began. At 3:34 pm, in a puff of smoke, Evel Knievel shot over the Snake River Canyon at nearly 300 miles per hour, in his steam-powered X-2 Skycycle. But only seconds later, Knievel's parachute deployed far too early, the wind blowing his Skycycle back to the foot of the south canyon wall. The attempt had failed, but it will forever be cemented in the “Evel" legend and part of Twin Falls history’.

Next stop was Centennial Park which unfortunately was closed so we moved onto the Auger  Falls Heritage Park. We strolled around and viewed a number of waterfalls in this area before heading back to town, stopping halfway up the Canyon Wall to take one last photo of the I.B. Perrine Bridge. This gateway to Twin Falls spans 1500 feet in length and rises, 406 feet above the floor of the Snake River canyon. After lunch in downtown Twin Falls, we headed off on Highway 30 towards Buhl, moving onto Thousand Springs; an incredible place with spring water spouting out of the side of the mountains. The next stop was Hagaman, which has the Fossil Beds national monument and an intriguing monument celebrating the local Hagerman Sheep families and traditions. The monument is a shepherd with a horse and an Australian Border Collie Dog droving sheep. As it was now midway through the afternoon we moved onto Bliss and back onto the interstate highway to make our way into Boise. Boise is a big city, the population approaching 470,000. The dual four lane, 80 mph, Interstate, ploughs straight through the centre of the city. Driving an RV surrounded by trucks and city traffic we stuck to the middle lane not deviating once until the GPS nominated the off ramp to our overnight waypoint at the Meridian KOA RV Park. Although once voted the most liveable city in the United States we had no interest in looking around. Too busy and rushed for our liking. As customary we arrived at the RV park just on 4 o’clock in time for happy hour. Pleased to report today’s happy hour was very enjoyable and pleasant in the warmer afternoon/evening weather. Tomorrow, however, may be a bit of a slog. We have a little over 300 mile (480klm) ahead of us as we are heading to Boardman in Oregon. 


Anchorage to Seattle Tour 2023 - Day 39 - Boardman

2023-09-26

After a good nights rest, we were a little slow to get on the road this morning. We left the Meridian KOA RV Park just after 9 o’clock, straight onto the Interstate Highway 84, heading west to Oregon. Just after crossing the border into Oregon, there was a dramatic change in geography, initially we were experiencing rolling hills/mountains completely void of trees then ultimately moved into more treed mountainous country. We also picked up an hour as we are now on Pacific Time (PT). Although travelling on the interstate we were in essence following the old Oregon Trail. We arrived in Baker City, just after 10 am, and spent just over an hour in the Baker Heritage Museum. What a surprise collection of memorabilia, local history, natural history, along with props, costumes, and a  photographic collection showcasing the film ‘Paint Your Wagon’ as Baker City had served as film production HQ for this musical comedy starring Lee Marvin and Clint Eastwood back in 1968. The museum also had a very complete and unusual rock and geological display. Just out of Baker City we had a slight diversion to the Upper Perry Arch Bridge, one of the only two single-arch bridges in eastern Oregon.  This bridge was designed and built by Conde B. McCullough in 1924. We spent the next hour, climbing into and through the ranges. Just on midday, we turned off and made our way into Le Grande where we stopped for lunch. Just after exiting Le Grande we passed a small green sign that advised us that we had just crossed over the 45th parallel which is exactly halfway between the Equator and the North Pole. Initially we mistakenly thought this was the Tropic of Cancer, but we live on the Tropic of Capricorn in the southern hemisphere and it is roughly 23° south of the equator. It is the subsolar point, the southernmost latitude where the sun can be seen directly overheadand at the December solistice. A quick check with Dr Google confirmed Tropic of Cancer is 23° North of the Equator the 45th parallell (45° N) is just another parallel that has been determined is the halfway point between the equator and the North Pole. The next stop was an off-road excursion on Old Emigrant Road taking us to Squaw Creek Overlook providing us a birds-eye view of the Umatilla Reservation. A little further on we stopped at Dead Man’s Pass Lookout providing our first view of Pendleton and the sweeping views of the Umatilla Valley and the plains that spread all the way to Portland. Another hour along the interstate, had us arriving at our waypoint for tonight, Boardman Marine and RV park. The park is a well laid out grassed area located on the banks of the Columbia River, the state line between Oregon and Washington. Driving along the interstate today we had plenty of time to research and learn more about Oregon. The following is just a few of the fascinating things we discovered:

Anyway that's enough for today. Catch up again tomorrow.


Anchorage to Seattle Tour 2023 - Day 40 - Castle Rock

2023-09-27

We woke Wednesday morning at Boardman Marina and RV Park to a cloudy morning. Most of the group planned on crossing the Columbia River and travelling through Washington around Mount St Helens to our next waypoint at Longview. We choose to remain in Oregon and continue along interstate Highway 84 and follow the Columbia River to Portland. It is difficult to portray the size and the might of the Columbia River, it just seems to go forever and it is very wide in places, with the dams making many portions of the river more lake like than a river. The entire river system is 2000 kilometres long, starting in British Columbia and emptying into the Pacific Ocean at Astoria, Oregon. Our route had us following the Columbia River from Pendleton to Longview, approximately 480 kilometres or about 25% of it entire length. There are more than 60 dams and 31 hydroelectric projects on this river. We only stopped at two; the John Day Dam and the Dalles Dam. In Dalles we also located and stopped at a Lewis and Clark historic trail site, The Rock Fort Campsite. It is a natural fortification on the south shore of the Columbia River where the Lewis and Clark expedition camped for three nights in late October 1805, and again for one night on their return journey. It was here that the expedition first made significant contact with the Chinookn speaking peoples of the lower Columbia. Today it has few interpretive signs explaining the significance of the site and is still being used as a campsite by a number of homeless people. We had plans after lunch of getting off the highway and visiting a lookout in the mountains above the Columbia River. As we approached Corbett, the turnoff for Bridal Falls, Pillars of Hercules and the Vista House of Crown Point it started to rain. We decided to stop for lunch and hope the weather improved. We stopped at a truckie stop, the TA Travel Centre in Troutdale. What a mistake. The food was great but the portions were gigantic. There was no way we could have eaten it all. Joan and I would have been struggling to finish just one serve. Ah well big lunch, meant toasted cheese sandwich for dinner. Unfortunately the weather only deteriorated so we pushed on without diverting off the highway. The next hour was the most stressful of the entire trip. Driving through Portland in a downpour. Four to six lanes of what seemed like peak hour traffic coupled with kamikaze truck drivers everywhere. Somewhere during this melee we switched from interstate 84 to interstate highway 5, crossed the stateline into Washington and were successfully heading towards Seattle. We found our way to Longview but got lost trying to locate our RV park in Castle Rock. After turning around twice we did eventually locate the Mt Helens RV Park. By then the rain had eased and thankfully we had a great happy hour behind the vans looking out over the valley towards Castle Rock.


Anchorage to Seattle Tour 2023 - Day 41 - Bellevue

2023-09-28

With only a short run today, just over 100 mile to the finish line - Seattle, we had a late start, giving me a chance to complete packing my homeward bag, meaning Joan could have the van to herself that afternoon to do her packing. We headed off just after 9:30am pulling up about 60 miles up the road, at the Billy Frank Jr. National Wildlife Refuge, near Nisqually. It is a wildlife preserve operated by the United States Fish and Wildlife Service on the Nisqually River Delta near Puget Sound in northeastern Thurston County, Washington and northwestern Pierce County, Washington where the fresh water of the Nisqually River meets the salt water of Puget Sound, creating a bountiful habitat for fish and wildlife. At certain times of the year there are thousands of migrating birds from thousands of miles away visiting here. We realised there was little hope of birds being here this late in the season, but the 1.5 mile wooden boardwalk would provide a distraction for an hour or two and a good walk in the fresh air of the Riparian Forest. Which it did. From here we migrated across the highway to the Nisqually Bar & Grill for lunch. It was a well decorated and popular pub for Thursday lunch. We were surprised at the number of patrons having a late lunch. The service was also brilliant. Joan declared her burger to be the best she had eaten in the US. We still had a little time to kill entering Seattle so as Joan dozed I took a gamble. I was still a little disappointed that we had missed the Vista House lookout yesterday at Crown Point because of the rain so I took an executive decision that we would deviate away from the GPS taking us to Trailer Inns RV Park and check out the Fremont Troll, a cool piece of funky public art located on N. 36th Street at Troll Avenue N., under the north end of the Aurora Bridge. It is clutching an actual Volkswagen Bettle as if it had just swiped it from the roadway above. The Troll is 5.5 metre high and weighs 5,900 kg and was sculptured by four local artists that won an art competition, in 1990, to construct something unique, sponsored by the Fremont Arts Council with the intent to construct a piece of art to deter the homeless from sleeping under the bridge. The troll design was a success and is now part of Seattle’s history. My thoughts were it would fill in some time and it was something of interest. As soon as I adjusted our course the traffic slowed and then it started to rain. Long story short Joan does not have the appreciation for street art I thought she had, and as it ended up taking 90 minutes to cover the additional 30 miles it was a very quiet trip to our destination. The good news is I got to view the Troll and Joan did not get interrupted by me at all whilst packing her bags, once we got to our destination. The sad news was the rain continued, depriving us of our last night happy hour. The good news is one our group, Toni, organised some tables at the nearby Outback Steakhouse, an Australian themed restuarant. Turned out to be a great memorable evening with our group. Tomorrow we start the long trek (flight) home. Seattle - Vancouver - Brisbane -  Rockhampton. We hope to walk in the back door, at home,  by 1:00pm Sunday.


Anchorage to Seattle Tour 2023 - Day 42 & 43 - Seattle-Vancouver-Brisbane- Rockhampton

2023-09-29 to 2023-10-02

It is Friday lunchtime and I am sitting at Seattle-Tacoma International Airport, having lunch waiting for a flight to Vancouver. This means our US-Canada roadtrip is over. We fly out tonight arriving back in Brisbane early Sunday morning.
 

Next day. The plane from Seattle to Vancouver was delayed. Departure time was posted as 6:25 pm but we did not depart Seattle till 8:38pm, arriving in Vancouver, 51 minutes later, just on two hours later than expected. The Queensland contingent (7 of us) were not boarding until 10:30 pm for an 11:15 pm departure to Brisbane. The remainder of our group, however, flying to Sydney had a boarding time of 10:00 pm for 10:45 pm departure.The late departure from Seattle really rushed our goodbyes and deprived us of that last drink with the friends we had made over the past 6 weeks. It was compounded for us as our strategy had always been to buy the souvenirs for our kids and grandkids in Vancouver because all of them, other than Jax had visited and spent time in Vancouver. Souvenirs from Vancouver would be more meaningful than something from Alaska or the US. We achieved our goal and found something for everyone, and still had time for hasty good byes with the non-Queenslanders, including Lynne and Kevin, who had left the tour early but rejoined the group for the flight home. We did however get 30 minutes to enjoy a nightcap with the Queenslanders, returning home, on our flight. The plane left on time. I slept well, Joan not so good. We said final good byes to the others in the baggage hall in Brisbane. The plane to Rockhampton was on time and arrived a few minutes early into Rocky. Dennis and Di were there to collect us and our luggage . We were home just before 1:00pm. Only one job left to do - do the metrics and the review of out time away. 


Anchorage to Seattle Tour 2023 - Metrics & Overview

2023-10-04

Tour Organiser/Service Provider -  American Canada Motorhome Tour
Duration: 43 days. 18/8/23-29/9/23. Lost a day coming home. Arrived in Brisbane am 1/10/23 
Distances travelled
        Flights: RCK - BRIS - VCR. SEA - VCR - BRIS - RCK       24,861 klm
        Crusing: Vancouver - Whittier                                               2,149 klm
        Bus: Whittier - Anchorage, Seward - Anchorage                      304 klm
        Train: Anchorage - Seward                                                       204 klm
        RV (Road): Anchorage - Seattle (4,930.3 miles)                   7,933 klm
                                                                                    Total =     35,451 klm
Number of States/Provinces visited:              
11
                    Started - Queensland
                    18 Aug - British Columbia
                    19 Aug - Alaska
                     3 Sept - Yukon
                     8 Sept -  British Columbia
                    13 Sept - Alberta
                    18 Sept - Montana
                    21 Sept - Wyoming
                    23 Sept - Idaho
                    26 Sept - Oregon
                    27 Sept - Washington 
Vehicle provided: by Alsaka Travel Adventures. Petrol E-450 7.3L V8, Forest River Sunseeker LE Class C, 25 foot.
Driving distance: 4,930.3 miles = 7,933 klm
Amount of fuel consumed (converted from US gal): 2102.24 litre
Cost of fuel consumed (converted to A$): A$3,809.76
Average cost of fuel (Converted to A$):   181.2cpl
Fuel economy (averaged): 3.77 klm/litre
Fuel consumption (averaged): 26.50 ltr/100klm
Cost per Kilometre: A$0.48/kilometre 


Testimonial - America Canada Motorhome Tours

2023-10-08

We have always been solo self-guided travellers. Post Covid we were struggling in putting together a North American road-trip. We were having difficulty securing a suitable RV and could not avoid exorbitant one-way hires surcharges, coupled with the uncertainty and stress of securing camp sites in the more popular destinations. That’s when we approached America Canada Motorhome Tours. This turned out to be a great decision. Not only did their itinerary suit our needs but it also provided a safety net in the form a tour leader and a group of like-minded Aussies to share ideas, experiences, and happy hours. The other bonus was the cruise from Vancouver to Whittier. We have never cruised and would never had considered cruising if not part of this package. We certainly enjoyed our inside passage cruise up the Alaskan coastline. The RVs were comfortable, functional, and reliable. Much easier to drive and park than I had expected. The itinerary worked well, allowing us the freedom of travelling alone, if we chose, and at our own pace. Most campsites were within three to four hours’ drive, allowing us about five hours each day to visit points of interest or take alternative routes to our waypoint. However, we discovered there is a special joy in running into someone you know in a foreign country or exploring new territory with new friends. There were sufficient two-night stops along the way to have a rest day and catch up on domestic duties, laundry, and shopping, whilst still squeezing in some local sightseeing. In summary we thoroughly enjoyed the experience and would certainly do it again. Thank you, Graeme, Ken, and Ruth, for the memories and the friendships that we developed during this tour.

Peter and Joan Spooner QLD