On July 17th, 1996, aboard our 38` steel cutter-rigged LIFES DREAM, we severed the dock lines completely from our home port. Bay City Michigan. From there we sailed out of the Great Lakes via the Welland Canal to the Eric Canal to the Hudson River. Thus upon our exit Lifes Dream had managed to sail upon all 5 Great Lakes ( the largest collection of fresh water in the world) on her way to salt water.
A New Boat
October 2000
After we made the decision to sell Lifes Dream, while in Honduras, we sailed to Florida and put her up for sail. While Internet shopping, we contacted a broker through InterYacht in Annapolis, Maryland regarding another boat. That boat was sold but we explained what we were interested in and set up a meeting time to see some boats in the Annapolis area to coincide with the Annapolis Sailboat Show in the beginning of October, 2000
There were two primary items that we had mentioned to the broker that we were not interested in for the new boat, a mast over 65` ft and teak decks. After showing us several boats that did not meet our needs he sadly mentioned that he had no other boats to show that fully met our specifications. However, there was one that he said met all our needs except for two major areas, as mentioned, and he hesitated to show us the boat unless we cared it see it. Since we all had committed the time for day of boat shopping and it was yet fairly early in the day, we felt there was no harm in looking. Within a week we were the owners of a boat with a 72` mast and solid teak decks.
Still Dreaming our new home
Most people that do not know boats I tell them Lifes Dream was equil to a VW bug while Still Dreaming is a high end Mercedes or a Jaguar.
Still Dreaming`s Specifications are as follows-----
S/V Still Dreaming 1987 Wauquiez Centurion 47 (Pronounced VO KEY A) Builder Henri Wauquiez, built in Lille, France northwest, close to the Belgium border. Designer Ed Dubois Length overall 47 feet Beam 14. 8" Draft 6` Cutter rigged, mast 72` off the water, Pro Furl with 150% 950 Sq`, main sail is 500 Sq`,staysail sails are hanked on Double spinnaker poles on mast track Sail inventory 150% 120% hanked 100% hanked 85% Yankee style 2 Storm jibs hanked one large spinnaker one small spinnaker with snuffer sock Tankage Diesel 80 US Gallons Water 160 US Gallons in 4 stainless tanks Engine Perkins 2-236 62 Horse Power
Ground Tackle 300` 3/8 high test chain 88# Delta (main anchor) 50# Brittany 44# Claw 120# Luke storm anchor Lofrans electric windless with remoteSelf-steering Autohelm 6000 with remote, only used when motoring or wind is below 6-8 knots. Monitor windvane, the best addition to the boat next to Mary. Solar panels 4 75 Watt Siemens mounted on radar arch Wind generator.
Electronics wind/depth/speed/Brooks & Gatehouse Koden radar Icom 700 SSB Kenwood TS 50 S SSB/HAM Kantronics Kam 98 TNC (for on board e-mail) SGC 230 Smart Tuner to insulated backstayVHF Standard Horizon with cockpit Ram MikeRefrigeration Grunert 12VGalley stove is Taylor Propane with 12V shut off protection Dink is 12 1/2 foot folding ports-boat with Evinrude 8-hp & 15-hp. The 15 is usually refurred to as my Ferrari engine. Life raft is a Givens, hope it is never put into service. 16` para-tech sea anchor ( great piece of equipment, used twice so far) and a small drogue.
The Atlantic Crossing
July 2001
After, sailing in the Chesapeake for a few trial runs of a new Monitor windvane and Autohelm autopilot, we left on Still Dreaming for her real shakedown cruise of 2,250 miles from Norfolk Virginia to the Azores, an island chain about 800 miles off the coast of Portugal. What a terrific sailing craft she turned out to be!
The Atlantic Crossing: The following is an example of comments that were part of the log while crossing the Atlantic.
Since we have already been out for 6 days I thought I had better begin putting some thoughts of paper. Today is July 1st. We left Norfolk Tuesday the 26th of June. Todayís entry may be short as we are flying along it seems with wind gusts to 30 k. There is a double reef in the main and a hanked on storm jib. Dan has just gone to bed and I do the 1800, usually 1830 to 2100 watch. Dan is on from 2100 to 2400. I go until 0300 and he finishes up the night at 0600. I feel anxiety almost all the time so far. We are fine, the boat is fine. I think it is because of the step I am taking for myself in finally making the sail.
July 5th, already it is almost 4 or rather 1600 in the afternoon. The boat is sailing fast with a double reefed main and the storm jib out. It is rocky and rolly but knowing that we are making good time makes the discomfort a lot more bearable. We have been through stormy two and day front with winds between 25 and 35 knots. Also, we have been becalmed for a day. There have been terrific down wind sails and also hours of simply ghosting along at 2 to 3 knots. A little of everything which is good. Learning how Still Dreaming handles herself in all types of conditions is of utmost importance. Mostly it is how Mary Spencer handles herself in all types of conditions. It seemed forever that we where in the distance range of 1,399 to 1,299 miles. Yet one day we are flying through the twos and are now less than 1199.
Start of the 13th day at sea. We are 872 miles out from our waypoint of Horta. Life becomes a different setting that just happens because of, well the setting. I wonder if that is what it always was? Am trying so hard to CARPE DIEM.
Meet the expectations of each day and learn to marvel or conquer the challenges that are presented. Spotted a larger whale than we had sighted before. Dan first saw the spray, called to me and I looked at the long, sleek, gray body just before he submerged.
Once inawhile we see a turtle simply floating along on the surface as if asleep. The first one we saw, I thought it was dead. Slowly it lifted its head as we passed. Yesterday, as I was resting in the bunk, I hear a loud SWISHHHHHH from outside. I raced tothe cockpit and see a huge navy helicopter circling overhead. Dan is talking them on the VHF. They spotted us on their radar and came to check us out. They were off a navy ship that had been in Ireland and was bound for Norfolk. Dan explained how we had left Norfolk 12 days earlier and were heading tothe Azores. They stated that they could see another sailboat, about a 40` sloop 16 miles away.
It is very rocky tonight! Bouncy to say the least. I burned myself last night. Not only was the pain on my hip intense from the hot tea that jumped onto my thigh but also I felt so incredibly stupid. Hello, you are on a boat riding the waves in the ocean. One does NOT put oneís tea cup on the table as if one were sitting in a home on the strange stuff called terra firma, turf, sod, dirt, soil, earth! Anyway, MUCH BETTER TONIGHT WITH THE HELP OF Silvadene ointment. Today is Monday the 9th.
Tues, the 10th, 1420. If all days at sea could be like this one, I could sail on forever.
Saturday, 14th. I must be getting so superstitious. Yesterday was Friday the 13th. Glad it is over. All was well during the day. As evening approached the seas ran from behind. New boat, it seemed to takes it toll trying different things to keep sails full. Finally, Dan pulled in headsail and let out main. We did fine, but there still the occasional CLANG!!!!! Try sleeping with THAT. Another sailboat sited. Dan contacted him via the flashlight. He was apparently having same problems we were and finally said, ì I have to go north. English, out of New York. The fish from the French Guadeloupe Catamaran sailor is great. I was nervous, afterward, bringing our boat alongside in mid ocean to do the transfer of fish, beer, and peanuts. We have eaten the fish two days in a row. It is the 2,250 miles shakedown cruise. Dan finally pulled out storm jib on port with small whisker pole. Main is vanged off the starboard. Much like we did with LD with the clubfooted staysail. All is well. 155 miles to go.
The island of Faial is spectacular. We made it! It appeared in and out of the fog. Gradually the rocky shore and green hillsides came into view. Into Horta, checked in, exhausted! Much wind, into the marina with many boats rafted up. Called out for the right boat to raft up to, first Pegasus, no it`s Penguin. So tired at this point. With help, rafted up and finally at rest after 19 days. A cigar, shot of whiskey and good sex are definitely in order.
General e-mails sent, usually when we have not been in contact for awhile and I have the need to reach out and touch someone as they say!!
Azores
July 2001
One wonders if a place they have desired to go to for many years will live up to their dreams and expectations. Dan and I can`t remember when we had first read about the Azores, an archipelago in the Atlantic belonging to Portugal. However, when we did, we immediately looked at the world atlas to see if such a place was for real. There they were, nine islands about 800 miles east of Lisbon. Even the name was intriguing, Azores. A place noted for whaling the old traditional way well into the 1960`s, beautiful green calderas and the remains of the volcanoes from which the islands evolved, and people who were charmingly European but very settled into the island way of life.
The famous, single-handed sailor, Joshua Slocum visited the island on his circumnavigation in the early 1900`s. The whaling didn`t start until the 1800`s, introduced to the Azoreans by the Americans. The story is that the whaling ships left the East Coast of the US. Following the currents and wind, they would often stop in the Azores on the way to the south Atlantic and beyond. So many American men deserted the ships once they reached the islands that it was necessary to take on the Azorean men as crew. Once the trade was learned, the people realized that they could whale directly from the islands. On the volcanic hills overlooking the oceans, the spotters would sight a whale and give the call sending out men on rather small boats with their harpoons.
We sailed Still Dreaming across with Atlantic from Norfolk, VA. making landfall 19 days later at the island of Faial. Like something out of a seagoing saga, the rocky volcanic hills loomed out of the fog. Absolutely breathtaking. The guidebook stated that the westside of the island was not as pretty a sight as the east, which is much greener with softer, rounded hills. I thought it was fantastic. The crags with the steep indentations making the sea crash into the rocks was what I dreamed the coast of Europe would be like. This was our first glimpse of Europe. We sailed into the harbor of Horta on the island of Faial with the children racing in the dinghies all around us.
Six weeks in the Azores were spent on four of the nine islands. We kayaked into caves, hiked volcanoes, and explored caves that were hidden by the lush vegetation in the calderias. After repairing a lower shroud broken on the crossing, Still Dreaming set off from the island off Terceira. She made landfall eight days later in southern Portugal in the port of Port O Mio.
I always keep in my mind the 5 top most wonderful and memorable places I have visited while cruising. Of course the list changes as we travel. The Azores has now entered the top 5.
First driving trip in Europe
September 2001
Spain, Switzerland, Germany and France
How is everyone doing? We have been able to check into the Internet rarely in the last month but were able to pick up a radio station of the BBC. When able, in the larger cities, we have purchased USA today and Newsweek, the overseas international editions. On the boat at 2:00, 1400, we listen to NPR broadcast on FM radio from the local US navy base.
We returned to the boat Monday just as our son, Toby was arriving via auto from Lisbon. I will try to be brief (don`t laugh, I said I would TRY!) The inland travels were fantastic. We enjoyed a great European adventure due to some wonderful friends. I have to at this point say DANKE, DANKE!!! to Kris and Kilian in Germany and Andy, Mirjam, Sandy, and Chrigi in Switzerland. First and foremost it is because of these good friends that lifetime memories were created making it not just another vacation but a true adventure of a lifetime.
We purchased the car, a whole story in itself, and locked up the boat. With map in hand and driving directions off the Internet took off on a three-day fast track. Well not too fast as our little Fiat has a mighty small engine and some those mountains are mighty big. We drove along the Spanish Mediterranean, through the Pyrenees, up through the middle of eastern France, into Switzerland at Geneva to meet Andy outside of Zuerich.
After an overnight with Andy, Mirjam, Sandy and Chrigi making plans for our return, it was onto Germany to see Kris and Kilian in Gemering just outside of Munich. Our German adventure included the October Fest, sightseeing in Munich, churches, cloisters, castles, biking and a two day hike in the mountains. The blisters, the aching legs, ah but it was worth every moment! Watching goat like animals we think called Chamois, thank you Chrigi, feed along a glacial ridge above the tree line, sleeping in a mountain overnight hut with 25 strangers, having wiener schnitzel in the mountain restaurant (the Blaueishuette / the Blue Ice Hut), and of course the SCHNAPPS!
Back to see Andy and Mirjam who live just outside of Zurich. We stayed at Sandy and Chrigi`s home again up a mountain overlooking the beautiful sloping hills of farmland of Switzerland. After Andy and Mirjam gave us a grand tour of Zurich and surrounding sights including waterfalls resembling Niagara, we packed up their Mercedes station wagon (bit more power there) and the four of us took off! Places Dan and I had only heard about through history classes, television, and the gossipy sections of the papers St. Moritz, Monaco, Genoa, Cannes, the Italian and French Mediterranean seasides and then up to the little town of Tallard, France. Italian and French food and wine!!!!! Need we say more? We went into the mountains and climbed with the experts, Sandy and Chrigi. We trekked out in the fields and forests to go mushrooming. We picked the mushrooms, showed them to Chrigi and cheered with glee if he said it was a keeper.
We enjoyed a wonderful dinner with Mirjam`s parents and sister. Andy, the computer, expert worked on our computer and helped with our downloading and storing of pictures.
On the way home, straight through from Switzerland to Rota, Spain to meet up with Toby at the boat, we passed through the beautiful, totally unspoiled Sierra Nevadas of southern Spain. Judging by all the roads being built this will not last long.
I try to keep our communications to a page and I see I have run over will close with these thoughts glad the Euro dollar is coming, totally open borders between EC countries (no stamps in the passports) are a strange feeling, the fascinating language differences and similarities, Andy`s great driving ( Mirjam and Sandy, stop laughing), and it is great to be with Toby. Love Mary and Dan.
Holiday Greetings
December 2001
The holiday times can be a time of reflection and being thankful. 2001 has been an extremely eventful year for our entire family. We always wonder if people enjoy holiday catch-up letters. We love to read the letters from others so we hope friends feel the same.
First of all family, even their lives have been a non-stop crazy year. Jenny, 32, January 17th, in Costa Rica, married Derek Sliman. There was a wonderful wedding celebration party in Florida the end of March. J received her master`s degree of social work in May with promotions and job changes following the degree. She continues to is an administrator for the Ruth Cooper Center in Fort Myers, supervising people working with seriously mentally ill adults. The best part is that Derek and Jenny will make us grandparents this coming February! Toby, 29, a race mechanic for the road bicycle Saturn Racing Team, has traveled across the US several times and has spent the year getting to know his job. He flew to France in October to travel with us and also his friend, Catherine, a cycle racer from France that he met in the US. Karrie, 32, has taken a new position in hospital administration in charge of the quality care programs in Hobbs, New Mexico. She and husband Jim have bought a new home in Hobbs. . She has also been training for and competing in marathons and 12 marathons throughout the US in racewalking raising money for the Leukemia and Lymphoma Foundation. With pride, we give thanks for having Toby, Jenny, and Karrie. Their achievements, goals, interests, and determination have given us happiness and joy. Dan`s mom, Eva, is still baking up a storm, walking for exercise, gardening, having garden parties, and of course doing all kinds of activities with her many friends.
To all that are reading this letter, you know that we have realized a dream and a long awaited goal. In June, with our beautiful new home, Still Dreaming, a 47` cutter, we sailed for 19 days, 2,255 miles, from Norfolk Virginia to the Azores, an island chain belonging to Portugal about 800 miles west of Lisbon. From there, after an 8-day sail, we arrived in the south coast of Portugal. Our final destination for the year was Rota, Spain in the Andulusia region of southern Spain about 60 miles from Gibraltar. We purchased a car and have traveled throughout Spain, the Bavarian region of Germany, Switzerland and France. Our life while living in Europe has been totally enriched and enhanced because of these wonderful people: John, Anna, their beautiful three year old daughter Sophia of Faro, Portugal, Kris and Kilian from Gemering, just outside of Munich, Germany; Andy and Mirjam in Richtersville just outside of Zurich; Sandy and Chrigi in Ricken, Switzerland and Marcelino and Marjolein of Toledo, Spain. These friends have shared their lives, homes, and hearts.
We have toured the incredible Algarve region in southern Portugal with John and Anna. Kris and Kilian showed us beautiful Bavaria with the famous October Fest in Munich, drinking the local beer at the old cloisters in the mountains and spending the night after a day of hiking in the Bleueishutte (blue ice hut) in the Alps by a glacier. Andy and Mirjam, besides spending many hours to help us buy and operate a new ham radio, took off a week of work to vacation with us. Andy and Mirjam drove us through Switzerland via San Moritz, to Italy including Genoa, into France through Monaco, along the Mediterranean Coast through Cannes and up through the French Alps to Sandy and Chrigi`s second home in Tallard, France.
We have been rock climbing in the French Alps and snowshoeing in the Swiss Alps with professional guides, Sandy and Chrigi. Our travels via our own car were made possible through Marcelino and Marjolein, fellow sailors, from Toledo Spain. These wonderful people have helped us learn the language, the history, the culture, the architecture, the religion, the food etc. of their countries that, we feel, provides the background of all that the United States is today. Thus our reason for needing to see Europe.
I want to mention my wonderful gift from Dan. In 1996, around the middle of December, Dan gave me my Christmas gift by awakening me at daybreak about 50 miles off the coast of Florida and Georgia to see the sunrise and about 50 dolphins play at our bow. This year, 2001, around the same time of year, we stood in the below freezing frosty cold in the morning waiting to see prehistoric paintings at the cave, Lascaux 2 a few kilometers from the beautiful small town of Montignac, France. I have dreamed of seeing this cave almost all my life. Possibly, I may have first learned about this incredible place when Grotte de Lascaux was closed to the public in 1963 because carbon dioxide was discoloring the paintings. About 100 meters from the original cave sight, the French have made a beautiful replica of the cave and the paintings. I can only feel that the absolute greatness of this Cro-Magnon artist, possibly a Shaman, was passed on to become a Michelangelo, a Da Vinci, or a Picasso. A wonderful gift for me.
Will close with these reflections and images that have given us so much peace and happiness. Watching the whales a 1000 miles from land, on the surface of an enchanting and calm Atlantic Ocean, spouting, and flipping theirs tails to submerge into the depths. In a soft breeze, sailing within a few feet of a large sea turtle, resting on the ocean surface, that calmly raised his head and watched us as we sailed by within a few feet. Seeing the volcanic hills of the island of Faial in the Azores appear out of the morning mist and fog as we made landfall after our first ocean crossing. Snoeshoeing through the pines, down the mountainside as the sun was beginning to set over the Swiss Alps.
We wish you peace from Europe,
Mary and Dan
Our First Grandchild
January 28th 2002
When we sailed from Norfolk, Virginia in June, we knew we would be returning to the United States in the winter for the birth of our first grandchild. On January24th, we left Still Dreaming in Rota, Spain to fly to Florida. We flew to Michigan from Jan 28th to February 11th for a two-week visit. We returned to Spain April 19th.
Our granddaughter, Kiera, was born Feb 28th. Mary had 6 full weeks of daily hugging. Dan had time to do Still Dreaming projecting at the home of Jenny Wiley with the purchase of a Sailrite sewing machine. In the 6 weeks we were in Fort Myers, he made cockpit cushions for Gerry`s boat; a 56` spinnaker sock, 14 country flags, a bimini and even altered Mary`s dress. Now that we are home, Mary has many projects lined up for Dan. New fender covers, winch covers, weather cloths, the list is endless.
All this was made possible with the use of the home of Jenny Wiley. Jenny is off sailing with Trever Mcghee on Lifes Dream. When they met us in the Azores the house plans were made. Jenny`s home in Fort Myers is about 6 miles from Jenny and Derek`s which made the joy of new parenting and grand parenting even greater. The Sliman and the Webster/Spencer family had their alone time.
Fort Myers, Fl had a beautiful winter this year. How great it was to take a tiny Kiera, out in the breezy, warm air with her wearing just an ONESY. See, a new grandma is getting the lingo down. At two weeks of age, Jenny and Mary took Kiera to her first class, baby massage. Dan and friend, Nora, who flew down from Michigan for a few weeks, dropped them off. They were on their way to the beach to meet up with good, friend, Gerry, to sail his boat down to Key West for a few days.
If in the future we refer to our grand daughter as "Hattie" instead of Kiera this is the reason why. As you know Dan is great for nicknaming people. Daughter Jenny and son-in-law, Derek believed all the wives tales about babies. They chose to not know the sex. The wives tales of faster heart rate and how mother is carrying the baby, high-low, side ways or out, etc.indicated our Hattie was to be a boy. Thus a boy`s name was selected even before a baby was made. However, the night before Hattie was born we reminded Jenny that the baby MIGHT be a GIRL! I told Dan on the way to the hospital that Jenny had a list of 14 names. Dan remarked, "Well they should just throw all the names in a hat, so I will call her Hattie." Thus grandma (Mutti) and grandpa`s (Cappy`s) pet name is Hattie.
Straights of Gibraltar
May 2002
Here we are in Gibraltar. Actually, Still Dreaming is at anchor in La Linea, Spain translated means the line. We ride our bikes through customs at the airstrip which then allows one into one the strangest places we have ever been with this huge rock looming over the town and the water. When we take the dinghy around the airstrip into the quay, we have to check into customs just like we would do with Still Dreaming.
The sail from Rota was a motorboat ride which was okay with us. Once we hit the rising tide with the current the boat was going over 8 knots. We sailed through the 7 mile wide Straights of Gibraltar looking at the spectacular cliffs in Africa and the beautiful, windmill laden cliffs of Spain.
The people in Gibraltar consist of tourists, Indian shop owners, Muslims, Jews, British, Spanish, and assorted others. I am listening to the British Armed Forces Radio as I write this. In the harbor, ghost ships are at anchor. These are huge freighters that are for sale by companies that have gone bankrupt. The freighters are well maintained but still present an ominous feeling especially at night. Cruise ships come into port and out pour the day tourists. You may of course think that all is well with this sailing duo.
As I write this Dan is working on the engine! As he was checking the belts on the engine he noticed water coming in. The water pump has gone belly up. Actually I am relieved because I felt that the bilge was pumping out just too much water when we turned it on. We had to turn it on because the electric switch went belly up. Dan just replaced it. We are having trouble with getting connected with the ham radio which effects getting weather and e mail. The computer with the Windows 98 is not showing the normal screen, and to top it all off the digital camera went belly up. Half the main salon lights are out. Let me see, have I mentioned enough.
We ended up buying a new weather device called a Navtex so we do not have to rely on the radio. So now we can see on the screen the weather giving the wind direction that is in the wrong direction. Hm, guess we could just go on deck to get that report. Actually, I am very happy we have a reliable consistent weather device that will let us know when we can and cannot proceed.
Hopefully in all good time we will be able to sail off into the sunset. Okay, we are going east, so the sunrise.
Question, how did the Barbary apes get on the rock? Also why weren`t they totally consumed when the long lasting sieges occurred with the English, Spanish and French in the 1700`s? (Baby Monkey Picture)
Well, a new day or rather a day that goes into the next day and the next day. The camera and the computer are up and working. The lights are all working. The water pump in a myriad of pieces has been taken to three places. You have to love the polite English manner. In all three places the courteous employee would look in dismay at our water pump parts and say " How long do you plan on being here?"as if we were going to have to be leaving the next day. We laughed to ourselves thinking they were the ones who would be telling us how long we were going to be in Gibraltar.
In the last chandlery, the young man looked at all he pieces and immediately began writing down what we needed, good sign. He bagged everything up and said call about 3:00 on Monday. Well, we guess it is a wait until Monday, around 3:00. Isn`t that about tea time? Come to think if it will close for now and make myself a cup.
Well, again a new day that will turn into several looking up at the "Rock." We biked into Gib yesterday to pick up the parts at one place and take them to another to get the water pump reassembled. Two parts worked out and two did not. As luck would have it the parts that were thought to be the most difficult to get were the easiest. So back to the first store to get the correct bearings that were off by one mm. The new bearings are now being sent from Madrid (we hope). We were certainly ready for a drink at the pub.
Dan is putting together a cork board together for me so we have a place to display family and friend`s pictures. We had an area on Lifes Dream for our favorite pictures and we miss such a place on Still Dreaming. Today is the 20th anniversary of the Falkland War between Argentina and England or so the British Armed Forces News Radio says. Time for another cup of tea.
Leaving Gibraltar and reaching the Balearics
August 26, 2002
Okay all dear friends and family there may be a few of you out there who think that this is a wonderful life, a glamorous life, an adventurous life and on into ad nauseum. I will vouch for the adventure part. We last updated our WEBSITE in Gibraltar, which seemed like a lifetime ago but really only a matter of a few months back. Okay it was May and this is August, almost September. Can we recap, do you want a recap???
We left Gibraltar with a working transmission and water pump. We said a fond and sad farewell to our boat mates Janet and Richard. Richard suffered a major stroke the day they came into Marina Bay Marina in Gibraltar. Both from England, in their 60ties, they had just spent a year outfitting their boat to cross the Atlantic to the Caribbean. They are now back in a port of the southeast coast of Spain trying to rebuild their lives.
The first day of sailing went well, not much wind, an easy motorsail. The next day, the wind began to build and clock to the northeast. Which direction do we need to go? You`ve got it. So what do sailboats do when they are faced with that situation? Tack of course. When we saw the coast of Algeria, not too up close and personal thank you very much, we tacked north hoping to not lose any of our progress going east. We sailed north for awhile then decided to tack south again hoping again to go southeast as the wind was still clocking around and need we remind you getting stronger. We sailed south until we again saw the coastline of Algeria and tacked north. Now it is into the night and we are crossing the major shipping lanes for all ships going into and out of the Mediterranean. Mucho, mucho barcos, really big boats at that!! We then decide as prudent sailors do, to sail south safely out of the shipping lanes off the coast of Algeria and hove to. Hoving to essentially means to park the boat in the middle of the water facing the boat into the wind and adjusting the sails in a way that the boat does not or at least does not move very fast in the forward direction. After two lovely days of this, we still creep at a very slow pace towards the freighter lanes so we decide to deploy the Paratech. The Paratech is a large parachute thing that is put over the forward side of the boat, which in deed does stop the boat, as in 0.0 knots. It does not keep you from wobbling like a WEEBLE doll but it stops all forward motion. Deploying the Paratech is easy. Getting the darn thing back on board the boat is another matter. Imagine trying to discharge thousands of gallons of water out of a parachute while hauling it out of the water onto the boat.
I awoke to Dan practically screaming into the mike on the VHF radio to a small freighter bearing down on us. Wildly, I grabbed a sharp knife from the galley to hand to Dan to go cut the line of the Paratech if need be so we could get out of there. As the freighter was passing VERY, VERY close and was slightly astern, without even noticing us, we heard voices on the radio indicating that the ship`s radio mike was keyed. Another words it was in the transmitting position rather than the receiving. I read the NAVTEX weather forecast, which gave updated weather information. The winds that were supposed to have eased from the day before were now predicted at being at gale force throughout the day. Enough of this. We checked the charts and decided that within a day we could sail again to the mainland of southern Spain giving up about 50 miles of the east direction that we were trying to make. With the winds in the mid twenties we set sail. When we were within sight of the coast of Spain, still with plenty of daylight, we decided to start the engine to get around some more of those blasted freighters. Now we had them not only going to and from Gibraltar but also the very busy ports of Malaga, Alicante, and Almeria on Spain`s south Mediterranean mainland. We were trying for a small strictly tourist sailing port called Almerimar right in between. Suddenly the engine made a different noise. A different noise means SOMETHING!! We determined that for the first time in all our years of sailing we have caught a line on the prop while underway. Now after after two weeks of boat fixing in Gibraltar, three days of misery riding out the weather, with me missing our granddaughter ALL the time, and with the wind still in the mid to high 20ties, we get a line, like major, get a line wrapped around the prop. Cannot say never. In Honduras, I once forgot to bring the fish line that we drag while sailing. We came into the anchorage on the island of Utilla, in the Bay Islands and as I backed the boat down while Dan was setting the anchor I proceeded to wrap about a zillion feet of nylon fishing line including the metal leader around the drive shaft. Our friend, Wayne, visiting at the time, only spent about more hours in the water than I want to count to remove the line, practically inch by inch.
On this journey, we wrapped a line that was attached to the Paratech sea anchor. Dan goes over the stern into the water in about 25 knots of wind with knife in hand to cut the line. Of course, he had a line wrapped around him so I could help get him out of the water. Finally after about four attempts, the line came free and we sailed off. I was terrified for Dan. I kept saying over and over, " You are the bravest man I have ever known." The winds were in the low 20ties, the seas off the stern quarter and we finally after three days began to relax. We even smiled and thought this was actually rather pleasant sailing until we both looked up and saw a wave that indeed was not going to break prior to the reaching the boat. And again for the first time is all our years of sailing, as if in slow motion, the wave broke into the cockpit, the termed is being "pooped" with the cabin doorway wide open. We sadly watched as many gallons of salt water spill into the boat and down the cabin steps. The scenario would be to have about 50 gallons of water poured out into your living room.
We make it Almerimar and have a few days of rest while waiting for friends, Yelisa and Raymond Pfeiffer, from Bay City to arrive. They were to arrive on Wednesday or Thursday. After hearing that a major worker`s strike was to be held on Thursday, we could only hope that when arriving in Amsterdam to connect to Spain they would hear the news. Indeed they did and at 12:30 AM they were on the boat. When all was ready, we set sail AGAIN for the Balearics. A lovely day of sailing along the southern coast of Spain, all is right with the world..Dan `s back begins to give him PAIN. Within a day he is flat on the deck on his back with Yelisa, a physician, doing a neurological assessment. The pain moves to Dan`s leg, and foot with resulting numbness and burning sensations. Dr. Pfeiffer`s recommendations are to find a port and emergency room NOW. We anchor for another night and then dock in Cartegena, Spain.
On Monday, a Spanish holiday for St John the Baptist, we dock, catch a taxi to the hospital, get pain medication, and find out about a neurosurgeon in Barcelona. No charge at the emergency room, by the way. On Tuesday, Yelisa, who speaks fluent Spanish, calls the neurosurgeon and makes an appointment for Wednesday AM. Then it is pack, take a taxi to the car rental, rent the car, and drive the 7 hours to Barcelona. Wednesday, we meet with the neurosurgeon and based on his and Yelisa`s examination, and if the MRI results concur, a diagnosis is made and arrangements are made to operate on Thursday. Wednesday afternoon, we get lost in Barcelona for two hours trying to find the MRI place. Once found; with Yelisa arguing our situation, they did the MRI. With the MRIs in hand, we returned to the surgeons at 5 o`clock to have the diagnosis confirmed. Basically in layman`s terms, the disk in Dan`s lower back had essentially become squished to the point it was pressing on the nerve. We then completed the necessary bloodwork, EKG and at about 9 PM checked into the hotel to sleep!!! At 7 AM, Dan checked into the hospital and by 10 AM on Thursday he had successfully been operated on and was resting comfortably. On Saturday, he was released. Our friend, Yelisa, was allowed to go into surgery. She stated it was absolutely "textbook." The cost of the MRI,`s which she stated were excellent, was 240 Euros. At the moment the Euro is on par with the US dollar. The total cost of the hospital, neurosurgeon, all the necessary tests came to 9,100 Euros. Having read and heard from so many cruiser`s about the excellent and much less expensive medical care that can be received in some areas outside of the US, we have now experienced it first hand in a very serious situation in Spain.
Okay, here we are, Dan is recuperating, I am still missing our "Hattie" every single minute, and we are still on the Spanish mainland. Our guests, Nora and Gerry, arrive in Cartegena and we leave within a week with Dan being a true captain for the first time. He is giving orders for the crew and is not doing ANY deckwork. He is also going a bit crazy. But we do successfully, after an overnight sail, reach the Balearics. The third attempt met with success. Raymond and Yelisa left us in Ibiza. Gerry and Nora continued on to the island of Mallorca and flew back to Toronto via Madrid and London . We spent more days lazing in Mallorca with Dan improving each day.
At the present time, we are on the island of Menorca, the most eastern island of the Balearics. Each island is very different, filled with history and charm. They have either suffered or progressed, whichever way you look at it from the influx of tourism but we are enjoying them very much. Dan is hoisting sails, kayaking, and hiking and except for residual problems in his right foot doing very well. And I of course am still missing our "Hattie" every single moment. We will continue trying to work our way east with friends visiting and helping hoping to put Still Dreaming on the "hard" out of the water to store for the winter sometime in October or November while we return to the states for the winter. Sorry this is longer than usual but thought there was a story to tell. Also wish it could contain more humor. Okay here is a hopeful chuckle on an island just south of Ibiza, Dan and I were told of some mud pools. We anchor and see people coming back out of the bushes looking like aborigines. Gerry, Raymond, Nora, Dan, and I troop off through the bushes to search for these pools. Suddenly there it was. Mud lots of it, in a small lake oozing up. Now you must remember, I am a mid Michigan child and am now in Europe in the Mediterranean. I see about 5 men before us also headed for the mud pools. I see these 5 men discard ALL their clothing and walk into the mud. Deciding that I did not want to join these gentlemen specifically, I search for a place and notice that in reality, I will be the ONLY person who is clothed, a swimsuit, while in the mud. I look over to this one smiling man standing about two feet away and try with all my might to concentrate on his face but can really only see his penis which is not quite covered in mud as is the rest of his body. His wife, totally nude is standing ankle deep in mud with a little parasol and still wearing her sun hat. The entire scene is like too great!! The mud by the way was incredible. Very, very warm. One could lay down in it and totally become immersed. After getting caked, we walked back to the beach and swam in the bath tub clear water of the gorgeous blue Mediterranean washing off the mud with our skin feeling incredibly soft.
Okay, okay here is one more and then I am done. Whilewaiting for Nora and Gerry to arrive in Cartegena, acat came in one night and urinated on the cushions inthe salon after we returned from Barcelona. It istaken mucho, mucho time and cleaning supplies to cleanbut in conclusion we can say the Still Dreaming has inreality and crudely stated been peed and pooped on. Atthis moment however, the skies are blue, theMediterranean is lovely and we are fine.
Sailing in the Mediterranean Sea
August - November 2002
Since leaving the US last April, we have sailed along the coast of Spain, explored the three islands of the Balearics, saw a wee bit of Sardinia, enjoyed the tiny country of Malta, cruised to several islands in Greece north of Crete, and made our final landfall destination for the season in Marmaris, Turkey. Friends joined us while cruising throughout the Mediterranean. The Mediterranean is noted for having no wind or too much wind. For the most part, we experienced terrific sailing with the prevailing westerly wind as we headed east.
After a day of strenuous walking up and down steps, hiking to beaches and through ruins on the island of Santorini in Greece, Dan woke to excruciating pain in his lower back and numbness in the right leg and foot. He basically laid in the bunk propped with pillows and eating painkillers while Marilyn and Greg Moffitt and I sailed Still Dreaming to Rhodes Greece to check out of the country. We then day sailed her to Marmaris, Turkey. With Greg`s help on the morning SSB net we made contact with another cruiser, a doctor from Italy. He talked to Dan several times on the cell phone and advised us to go to the hospital in Marmaris rather than Rhodes.
I feel I must take the time here to explain as many people ask us why we made the decision to sail to Turkey and keep the boat there. For two basic reasons, number one we had to be out of the EU and two, so many people recommended cruising in Turkey that we had to go there.
The European Union which includes many countries has a simple law which like US Federal Laws can be interpreted in different ways by the states, in this case the different countries belonging to the EU. In the past, the EU was called the EEC or EC, European Economic Union. The law basically states that if you bring a boat into the EU, you can legally be there for 18 months out of 24. We entered the EU in July of 2001, when we made landfall in Horta on the island of Faial in the Azores, which belong to Portugal. We will have been in the EU for 18 months in January 2003. The possibility exists that there can be a value added tax called the VAT imposed which is a %age of the value of the boat. We could be taxed up to 40,000 dollars, US. If you buy a boat in the EU today the VAT is included on the cost of the boat. Also like federal and state sales taxes in the US there are ways to get around such issues. However, we are not residents of the EU and did not want to incur problems. At this time, the countries that are not part of the EU in which people can take easily sail their boats to are Tunisia, Croatia, Malta, and Turkey. Of course, adding to all this, is that Malta, Croatia, and Turkey are trying to join the EU. Anyway, for a myriad of reasons the best choice for us was Turkey. Okay, if further questions, just ask. Now for the second reason about going to Turkey.
When meeting and talking to other cruisers from the US, England, Australia, etc. not ONE, not one said anything negative about Turkey. We constantly heard things such as the area is absolutely beautiful, the people are terrific, the prices are reasonable, the history that surrounds you is incredible, the anchorages are spectacular, and on and on. Many negative things were said about Greece. The little we have seen and experienced in Turkey is that indeed the area is beautiful, the people are nice and the prices are great. When we return to the US we are amazed with the fear that people live with here. Is it the media? Turkey is Islamic, the US is Christian. When we were in Central America with the predominately Catholic religion we heard church bells ringing constantly which I compared to in Turkey the minarets which have loud speakers and at certain times duringm the day there is the Islamic call to prayer. Like living near the train after a while it is not noticeable. The Muslim women wear scarves that are nicely tied in a way that shows their faces. In fact, in Turkey`s attempt to separate church and state, women are forbidden to wear the scarves in government buildings!! They wear slacks, long sleeve blouses, skirts, or jackets. That`s it folks for the Muslims we saw in Turkey. If you are not a Muslim you dress any damn way you want to. Some tourists tend to dress, I feel, very inappropriately, many men do not wear shirts at all and women were mini or bra tops in town. No one tells them they cannot. Where we were in Turkey, the area is incredibly beautiful, the food is great, and best of all we met people that seem to have a sense of humor. I will explain more at a later time but wanted to close with the update on Dan.
With the help of our friends, Greg and Marilyn, and also the kind people at Albatross Marina where Still Dreaming is, we secured Still Dreaming and flew back to Florida. Dan was filled with morphine and muscle relaxants. He was able to lie down on the flights from Istanbul to JFK and from New York to Miami. Our friend, Gerry met us in Miami and drove us to Fort Myers. Dan was using crutches or a wheelchair. Not receiving the help we felt we needed here in Florida, another story, we decided that Dan should fly to New Mexico where daughter, Karrie, is the director of nursing for a hospital. Karrie has the medical knowledge and can advocate for good medical care. Dan is in New Mexico now receiving physical therapy waiting to see a neurosurgeon. Well that`s the update for the WEB. I always want to leave the updated log with a positive, funny story. So hope this will leave you all with a chuckle.
We were telling everyone who would listen that basically the Mediterranean is totally fished out!! No fish, okay no fish over 6 inches. Guests and good crewmates, Donna and Karl, were with us. Karl suggested putting out a fishing line from Sardinia to Malta, a four-day sail. Dan explained the NO fish stuff but put out the line anyway. Make the guests happy. Karl and I were in the cockpit in the morning when Karl looked over at the line with the bungee cord and remarked that it was pretty taut. I stated that with the waves the line does that but I would give a tug in it anyway. I reached over the transom and tucked the line, which gave at first, and then all of a sudden a good resistance pull told me there was indeed something on the line. I began to pull the line in. Karl, getting excited, asked me if I needed the gaff. I stated no that the way I could pull the line meant there was only a little fish. Suddenly, I began to see the outline of the fish. "Karl, get the gaff, call everyone, and wake up Dan." We had a 4 1/2 foot swordfish on the line. We probably had been pulling the poor thing all night. With lots of activity, we pulled it in. Swordfish steaks are great eating. So, after all these years of sailing and dragging a line, the Mediterranean, which we were sure, is fished out yielded us the biggest fish we ever caught.
Goodbye LivesDream
April, 2003
In thinking about our decision regarding selling our 38` sailboat, Lifes Dream, while cruising in the Northwest Caribbean, I recall that I sat at a Pizza Hut in Puerto Cortez, Honduras and started to cry. The decision we knew was the right one but it still was an emotional breakdown. We had cruised LifesDream for 15 years through all five Great Lakes, out the Erie Canal, down the Intercoastal Waterway, the Florida Keys, the Abacos, Cuba, and finally from Key West to the Yucatan down through Belize, Guatemala, and finally to Honduras and the Bay Islands. While in Puerto Cortez we had LifesDream pulled, sand blasted, and painted so she looked great. Money was good so this was the time to sell and buy THEE boat. Now was the time to buy a boat with stand up headroom, more than one head, a real shower, and a nice cockpit, room for guests, and privacy. I just did not want to see Lifes Dream become a rusted relic behind someone`s house who has fantasies of going sailing. The pin holes that the sandblaster blew through the boat bottom was the hand writing on the wall to sell and get out while we could. After welding in new plates the boat was at least sale-abil and sail-abil for now.
With the decision made, there was still time to enjoy the Bay Islands of Honduras, return for a few more days to beautiful Belize and then sail for seven days back to Florida to put the boat on the market.
Along came a young man whom we thought would take care of LifesDream as we had. He would sail the oceans, discover new places and enjoy this remarkable boat.
Alas, we trusted, we established a friendship; we helped and helped and helped. Trever and his crewmate, Jenny, even met us in the Azores. We had an idea prior to us leaving Norfolk on Still Dreaming enroute to Horta, Faial in the Azores that Trever`s ability to sail across the ocean safely was a bit shaky. However, many have done it with less ability and much less boat. Our confidence really was shaken when we received e-mail from Trever from somewhere in the Atlantic. He did have enough sense to put on a SSB radio and used sailmail e-mail.
" Would you please e-mail the lat-long for the harbor in Horta as we have lost the chart of the island and the harbor, it blew overboard." We became increasingly concerned. Did we mention they also had broken the engine? My neurotic self kept thinking the engine, a 50 horse Perkins diesel ran great when he bought the boat but was there something wrong that we weren`t aware of.
At 11:00 PM, Trever, with the help of the nighttime harbormaster and us, enters an unknown harbor without an engine and without a chart. The next day, Dan asks Trever did he shut the engine seacock as he had been TOLD, so seawater would not flush into the engine. Trever replies that he remembered Dan saying that but couldn`t remember why. Dan states that Trever should cross his fingers go back to the boat, check the oil; if oil is high then he has put saltwater into the engine and has been there for two weeks. He should drain the oil, take out the injectors, put a towel on top of the engine (Trever didn`t have sense enough to do this), roll over the engine to remove the water, spray in lubricant into the cylinders, put back in the injectors, bleed the system and PRAY the engine will start. Lo and behold, 30 minutes later, Jenny calls on the radio and says listen to this-PPPRRR! The engin is running.
The next day we went out to the boat. Trashed! The main sail was torn, the Dutchman system was ripped and ruined, the boat`s topsides were beginning to leak with rust, the spinnaker was ripped, and we will not even attempt to talk about the interior. Dan and I were saddened but felt that the boat was being sailed and Trever was paying his monthly bill!
In January of 2002, the payments stopped. Then began a year of promises, promises, and the "money is in the mail" type e-mails! Finally after dealing with an increasingly irrational young man we realized the only choice was to repossess the boat.
We do so at daylight with high tide. Dan does admit it was rather fun. Since Trever indicated that while in Cape Verde while he was away the engine was again made inoperable and had seized up so we hired a tow boat service. Somehow, we realized that Trever always had an excuse and "it wasn`t my fault type" attitude
toward everything that happened. Rather than fix the engine, Trever welds on a rusty piece of metal to hold an outboard engine to maneuver a 35,000 # boat. He then proceeds to sail back across the ocean. He also knew that he was beginning to have problems with the rust around the keel. Again he SAILS across the ocean without repairing the problem.
We sent Trever a certified letter about repossessing the boat. However, we think since we did not put an RSVP on the letter he decided not to attend the festivities. He then began mailing long threatening letters about how we had stolen HIS boat. He said WE were pulling a scam, i.e. trying to scam money from him. Okay, okay HE owed US he says but he still owns the boat! How dare we do that? He said we were in big trouble and had committed a felony. We could lose our passports. Since this was our first offense the courts would be lenient, we would get probation. The judge is not stupid, he said, and she will see what we are trying to pull here. On and on and on. One e-mail started with "I will be brief" and then seven pages later finally ended with the same accusations that started the e-mail. He sends certified letters and e-mails. He does not have the guts to call. We are trying to deal with a boat that has been trashed beyond belief. Dan`s analogy is sell your house to crack addicts and return 20 months later to see what the house looks like.
The culmination of all this is when HE mails us a replevin order that we are to show cause as to why we took the boat. We cross sue that he owes us $ 4000 as shown by returned and stopped payment checks, a bill of sale, a promissory note, and a security agreement. By now we do know we are dealing with a young man who is to say the least a little out of touch with reality. In talking with daughter, J, the expert with mentally ill, the consensus is that this KOOK really believes what he is saying and trying the deal with him is useless. We file a counterclaim and all have our day in court.
In and out of the courtroom, a great judge. She looks at Trever and says quite simply, "do you owe these people money?" "Yes I do", says Trever.
The essence of the story is Trever has his trashed boat back. We wrote a bill of sale, which included the stipulation that this situation is over and there is
to be no more legal action. He was able to borrow $3000 from his friend, Jenny. Shall we just say she is his benefactor and leave it at that. By the way, Dan again made the engine that Trever stated was seized operational within an hour of our getting the boat back. With our money in hand and Dan AGAIN!!!! having helped Trever get the engine started we see Jenny and Trever leave to return the boat to Jenny`s home. Our LifesDream has become a rusted relic, forever tied up behind someone`s house so they will have their fantasies of again going sailing.
Lessons learned Trever wrote us one time about someone who he says owed him money. We will take his advice, "don`t trust anyone, get your money up front."
April 2003---we will know deal with the possibility of being land based after 12 years aboard=------is that a switch or what??????
2003 was the summer of the Swiss visitors. For those of you interested in how the connection came about it was way back in Honduras in 1999 at the boat yard in Porto Cortes. We became friends with the boat We-be-gone. Swiss owners Andy Egli and Mirjam Baumberger had crew helping work and cruise on the boat. Sandy Egli, Andy`s sister, and mate Christian, Criggi, Golfetto were aboard. A wonderful friendship was kindled in the heat of the boat yard. Over the course of the next few years, we visited Switzerland twice and had a great time at Schwantlen, Sandy & Criggi`s home, about 50km from Zurich.
On a red eye flight from Switzerland, Sandy and Criggi arrived at Bodrum, Turkey at 2345 hours. We met them in a rented car and drove 1 ½ hours back to Still Dreaming in Marmaris, Turkey. With an arrival at the boat of about 0400, needless to say, we all slept in the next day. Thus started a great two weeks. Sandy and Criggi do not get a chance to sail much. Living at about 1000 meters in the foot hills of the Swiss Alps at Schwantlen, they do not get a lot of sailboat stuff. Please take note, if you ever need crew just invite guests that are 25 years younger. Even if you simply want to sail to the next bay, the duo jumped to the mast and hoisted the main. On a 70` stick this can be a Jane Fonda workout with the winches. No problem for this fit crew. Yes, we sailed, no motoring, for two weeks. Sandy and Criggi did not mind if we were only making 2 knots, at least we were sailing. Also note, according to Sandy it was a lot better sailing on the "Real Mediterranean." Translated to mean that the bays along the Turkish coast were not part of the Real Med. The Real Med only counted when you could not see any land off one side or the other of the boat.
With our young and fit crew, we spent the next 2 weeks cruising the magnificent southern coast of Turkey. We enjoyed beautiful anchorages, nice hikes, and inland trips to Ephesus by car. Good times were shared in the impromptu boat yard get together that was typical of a cruisers party. We shared good food, drink, and wonderful friendship. The little cruiser`s party was a typical multinational evening. Countries represented were Switzerland, Germany, Turkey, France, Belgium, Canada & US. We love you all and are proud to call you all our friends.
The two weeks just melted away with the fun loving company. As the saying goes "a good time was had by all." We hope that sharing our home "Still Dreaming" was on a par with the wonderful times that we have had at Schwantlen in Ricken, Switzerland. A sign of a good cruiser is a little black book with a lot of multi-national contacts. Sandy and Criggi are definitely long time friends that we hope will visit again as we hope to do the same once again in Switzerland.
2004 Still Dreaming -- The year of COOL IT !
This summer on the boat was how they say you are supposed to do things while cruising on a sailboat. Hey, we have only been at this for about 20 years, so call us slow learners. Well we did a lot of FUN / Dan and Mary stuff. Slept in, swam frequently, kayaked to explore caves, great hikes etc. Gee honey I guess we do not have to set the alarm to move to the next cove, it is only 6 miles. Thus went the summer as we gunk holed mostly in the bay of Fethiye. I remember commenting to Mary " wow, this relaxed style of cruising could get habit forming." Probably not, after operating on the fast track way of doing things all these years it would be difficult to teach old dog`s new tricks. One of the highlights of this summer was meeting and getting to know the Bread Boys and their family. This family lived on and island about 15 miles from Gochek. They earned money during the summer selling bread to the sailors and much to our surprise also the Mom made beautiful rugs. Who knows, we may try the relaxed way of cruising more often in the future. Maybe the old dog can learn???
YE OLDE holiday catch up letter - 2004
We hope this past year has gone well for everyone.
Our family is doing well. Karrie and husband, Jim, have a lovely new home in Paris, Kentucky just outside of Lexington. Karrie is the chief nursing officer at the local hospital and Jim is learning the wine business at a local vineyard-winery. Toby lives in Burnsville outside Minneapolis, working for a large bicycle parts distributor company. J, husband, Derek, and our beautiful Kiera still love the warmer climes of Fort Myers even though three hurricanes this August and September put them to the test. J continues as the director of services for the adult mentally ill in Lee County. She is also vice-president of the Aids Task Force for Lee County. Derek is very busy surveying the land as the building of the gulf coast of Florida continues to expand.
We have to have a separate paragraph for our Kiera. It will be short as there are simply not enough words to describe her. Simply said, she is beautiful, smart, tall, and pure joy.
Thanksgiving brought all three, Karrie, J, and Toby to Corunna to be together for the first time since 1992. A great reunion took place that included Dan`s mother, his Aunt Verba, Jim and Derek. With an engaging, delightful, imaginative, talkative 33 month old to bond the group together, everyone had a great time. We are proud, as always, of our adult daughters and son. Their lives are all going well.
Travels led us to Switzerland last summer to visit friends Criggy and Sandy going to and returning from Marmaris, Turkey and Still Dreaming. From their beautiful home in the hills outside of Zurich, we were within driving distance of fantastic hiking in the mountains and canoeing on the Rhine.
Once back to our home for the summer, we hiked, swam, kayaked, sailed, read, explored ancient ruins, relaxed, and ate great Mediterranean food along the southwest coast of Turkey mostly in the bay of Fethiye. Does it sound too wonderful? It was!
Back to Florida just in time for Hurricane Charley but still we could be with Kiera, J, and Derek. We bought a Mini Cooper. I am back at work with the Lansing Public Schools at a center based program for the profoundly mentally and physically impaired. Dan has started his own business, SPENWEB UNLIMITED,LLC, doing home and boat maintenance. Dan also worked on the Kerry Campaign for the Michigan Democratic Party and MoveOn.Org. His mother has just received another round of cancer treatment but is doing well.
As another year comes to a close we wish you peace throughout 2005 and always.
Early arrival back in Turkey mid May allowed for a short crewing job. I know, everyone has to twist my arm very hard to drop things and go sailing with friends. I had told my German friend, Manfred from Berlin that I would help him move his 27` steel sailboat from Marmaris Turkey to the Pelloponnisos area of Greece south west of Athens. It was only about a 325 mile distance. Well e-mail flew back in forth determining route and time table involved. At one point Manfred told me "no problem we should get this done in three weeks." Whoa, I did a delivery from Florida to Ontario Canada about 1400 miles in the same time. I think that Manfred was starting to think that I was about to bail out on this trip along about then. No, we will do it, I just might stretch your comfort level and your cruising speed a bit. Actually Manfred is a very good navigator and if we would have been doing the trip in the middle of summer when the meltmi winds kick in right on the nose it could well have taken three weeks. The 10 hp. single cylinder diesel that S/V Catalina has would not push us into large sea & head winds, so we had to sail accordingly. We cast off from Marmaris and Manfred is a happy Captain. His S/V Catalina had been cruised and stored in various places in Turkey for about 14 years. We made the motor-sail passage to Rodhos (Rhodes) Greece a whopping distance of 24 miles as a day sail. Manfred had been here before so he knew of a great protected harbor just a short distance walk to check into the country. This was a harbor / marina that never got the marina part completed. Price was right, FREE. We checked in and enjoyed a day or so to get provisions and see the ancient walled city of Rodhos. Casting off we headed west and made our way between the many Greek Islands. It was a good thing that I had included our night scope. It was pretty cool, seeing an unlit island with the aid of the scope. We slid silently by under sail. We were well ahead of the summer meltimi winds thus we never had to strain the engine and try to push into head wind / sea conditions. S/V Catalina would at times become engine challenged. No problem for Capt. Manfred, he always managed to start the diesel with a hand crank when Catalina was being belligerent. As you know I am crew on this trip. Manfred would not let me spend a single Euro. I had told Manfred that I would like to loose 5 kilo before Mary got to Turkey in mid June. Thus ( as I called it ) The Manfred Diet. was put into operation. You see, Manfred had provisioned the boat as he always has. The diet was varied -- bread & sausage -- when you got tired of that switch to sausage & bread. I am serious all you chubby people reading this---The Manfred Diet WORKS ! Strange how he thought it was so great when I took over with a HUGE meal. Never thought that chicken & rice or tuna noodle was over the top on the culinary scale. I admit it was a challenge to get things done, for we only had a single burner propane cooker that required two hands holding on to the pot & cooker if the boat heeled even a little. Now ask yourself, does a 27` sailboat ever heel? In a lot of cases the bread and sausage was just easier. We stopped at Kamarai on the island of Serifos for diesel. Catalina only tanked about 10 gallons so be prudent and fill-er-up. Now Captain Manfred is a very prudent and thorough boat handler. This can also be related to the speed of maple syrup running of a pile of pancakes in Antarctica. I love this guy but he sometimes gives new meaning to slow. Once again he is in awe, that in the 20 minutes that I have been off the boat as he is stowing things, I have arranged for a truck to deliver diesel and have found a nice restaurant for him to buy ME lunch. Love this crew thing when it comes time to pick up the tab! After being fed and fueled we cast off for the night crossing to the Peloponnese peninsula. Keeping a sharp eye out for freighters and cruise ships in & out bound from Athens kept the night rotation of the watch schedule lively. Landfall was at Portakhelian. Facilities were not good here. No dingy dock, no internet, no bus service. We moved on the next day. This was the only day when Capt. Manfred really got mad at the crew. He was doing his pancake thing in the cockpit so I just walk up to the bow of the boat and make myself useful by edging the anchor up so we could be off. Well Captain was not ready and also not happy with the bloody crew. After this short squall blew over we only had to go about 10 miles further down the bay to the city of Navplion. We tied up with the typical med moor thing and explored the city. The harbor was pretty smelly at times so we needed to retrace to the next inlet only a couple of miles away. With Catalina now in a safe and clean new harbor it was time to retrace our route via the bus back to Navplion. We found the internet to tell the wives that we had made the crossing and all was well. We even found a great lunch spot with wonderful Greek guiro`s. How fitting that he restaurant was named Mary`s Place, too bad she was not here to share a guiro with. Well it took about 3 days to arrange a bus for me back to Athens. Once again Capt. Manfred paid for the bus and the ferry back to Rodhos. It was with a sad heart that I gave the customary hugs to my friend but Still Dreaming was waiting with much work to be completed before Mary`s arrival. As I sat on the bus there was a buzz of chatter but not a word in English. The ride took about 4 hours so I read and gazed out the window as the Greek countryside rolled by. When nearing the city I asked the guy that was sitting next to me and not uttered a word if he knew any English. Well to my surprise he said sure what do you want to know, of course in perfect English. With new directions I left the bus and made my way to the ferry terminal a few blocks away. No problem, have about 3 hours to kill, and the ship that just departed for Rodhos will have my ferry in it`s spot shortly. NOT !!! After about 2 hours I was getting a little antsy with an empty slip just sitting there. Lucky I had all my stuff lashed to our two wheel cart from the boat. Off I go and start asking questions where the ferry to Rodhos is tied up at. Sure as hell it is on the opposite side of the harbor and it is due to leave in less than an hour. Jogging with a shopping cart can be a LOT of fun! Well I made it and got checked on board. Of course I have the cheep seats, which translates to no cabin for the overnight 13 hour ferry trip back to Rodhos. Nothing new for me it just adds to the adventure quotient. I made my way up to the side deck and enjoyed a beautiful sunset munching on my Mary`s Place guiro. Upon staking out my nightly spot on the un-occupied picnic table bench I was all set. Good thing that I had my foul weather jacket for the night air was pretty chilly. I arrived just after sun up at Rodhos. Goodie, the ferry to Marmaris does not leave for about 8 hours. Shit that makes for a lot of people watching time. Had to get Hattie a shirt from Greece so the time was spent shopping in the old city. The fast ferry back to Marmaris went well and once back I was again in familiar territory. Got a dolmosh ( shuttle van ) back to Still Dreaming, home at last. The delivery had taken 10 days. I did loose a few kilos but I gained a wonderful friend in Captain Manfred. I am sure that this delivery cemented a friendship that will continue for many years. Now that his boat is safe and sound in Greece I hope that Mary and I will be able to visit him and Christiana in Berlin in the future.
Summers were spent flying back to our home. Dan would
leave about a month before me to get the boat ready.
I would fly to Marmaris as soon as I finished my
school year and a few days of Kiera (granddaughter)
time.
Back to our HOME! Stilldreaming! Our real home. Once
on the water looking at the mountains surrounding
Marmaris Bay, hearing the minarets chanting out their
prayers to people not listening, seeing the scantily
clad, belly bulging, European tourists I knew I was
truly home.
This summer, our friend, Nora was going to visit for
three weeks. This would be Noras third visit. She
came to see us in Belize and a few years later in
Spain. Dan and I decided to sail Stilldreaming to
the Bay of Fetiye about 50 miles east of Marmaris. The
town of Gocek, nestled in the northwest end of the bay
seemed like a perfect place to have a friend meet us
and start a Mediterranean sail. We explained
explicitly to Nora to NOT pack any rain gear as it
does not rain in the summer in southern Turkey. The
day after Nora arrived was spent dodging in and out of
the little shops as to avoid the . rain. An unexpected
downpour throughout the warm afternoon at least gave
us a chance to relax and totally enjoy the mandatory
rum and coke initiation to a great sailing holiday.
We upped anchor from Gocek to, once again, explore the
beautiful bay with its high rocky hills rising up from
the sea with the sweat smell of the Pine trees
floating in the air. In the summer, a sailboat must
share the anchoring space with the Turkish Gulets. The
Gulet is made of the local Pine and range between 65
to 120 feet in length. This beautiful but rather poor
sailing vessel can be chartered by the tourists for an
hour, a day, week, a season. Some are quite luxurious
and others are of the backpacker`s variety. Whatever
the size and condition of the Gulet, they are designed
to take the paying passengers to lovely anchorages to
have fun. And that the people do!
Before sailing out of the Bay of Fetiye, we hiked up
to one of our favorite places. From the beach in the
inner crotch of finger like land projections, we
landed our dinghy and hiked the goat paths up into the
hills overlooking the Mediterranean. The ruins of an
acropolis suddenly appear at the top of the hill.
Below on the other side, in the valley, one can see
the outline of the dwellings that were once the small
city. We stopped to see friends, a Turkish family
that spent their summers on a small farm overlooking
yet another beautiful anchorage.
From Fetiye, Still Dreaming attempted to sail west to
the next bay. From there we would hire a boat taxi to
take us up to the town of Dalyan. As we cruised
along the mountainous arid coastline, Dan became
concerned regarding the engine heat. I looked over the
stern and noticed, sadly the exhaust was white. Water
pump! The decision was made to turn around to sail
back to Gocek. Geek is a major charter sailing center
with a number of charter companies. Also, as the
afternoon hours approached the predictably Mealtime
west wind coming off the Aegean would increase which
would make it a nice down wind and broad reach sail.
Remember the thing about it never rains in the summer
in southern Turkey. Well, the PREDICTABLY afternoon
wind was less than an occasional puff which pushed us
along at 2 to 3 knots before dying completely. We
lashed the dinghy with our Evinrude dinghy motor to
the side to assist. A 15 horse outboard motor can
help sail a 35 thousand boat. Once back into the bay
anchored at Gocek; contact with the water pump repair
person, take out the water pump, take water pump to
the repair shop, wait two days for repaired water
pump, and so on. Nothing else to do but enjoy more rum
and cokes, and explore the town.
From the bay of Fetiye, we did make it to our
destination, only a sail west of about 25 miles. At a
comfortable anchorage, we made connections with the
water taxi to pick us up the next morning for the run
up the Dalyan River. The taxi stops at the ancient
city of Kaunos and then to the town of Dalyan for
lunch.
Rhodes Greece was the next destination. Making use of
some unusual easterly winds, we had a lovely sail to
Rhodes, Greece. Dan knew of a good anchorage within
walking distance of the city. A marina was started,
the harbor dredged, the concrete walls poured. Alas,
the money stopped thus making a very secure, very free
place to tie up the boat.
For several days, we hiked the mile and ¼ to the old
city of Rhodes for pure tourist fun. Time to see the
island. Not far from the anchorage, was a car
rental. A car rental shop abit out of town helps the
rental rates considerably. The first town of interest
was Lindos.
When in Lindos, one must do what the tourists of
Lindos do. We hired donkeys to trek up the narrow
cobbled stones streets leading forever upward to the
citadel on top of the extremely high hill over looking
the Mediterranean. We stopped at a restaurant along
the way. Since we were the first customers we had the
total attention and charm of the waitress/cook. She
knew no English and we knew no Greek. A delicious
meal, wonderful service and great people to people
interaction. One of the joys of traveling the way we
do. With the rented car, there was not a stone
undriven on the rural roads of Rhodes.
Nora was with us for three weeks. In that time,
besides Rhodes, we returned to Marmaris and again
rented a car to drive to Ephesus and on to Panakaulee.
One such time, we were anchored next to a Gulet where
the people had been swimming and snorkeling. Darkness
came along with the dinner hour. We smelled cooking
meat from the grill at the bow on the go front deck of
the next door Gulet with the guests sitting at
comfortable seats in the rear enjoying before dinner
drinks.
After the mandatory rum & coke greeting we cast off
in a day or so to see the coast of Turkey heading
east. A few miles out of Gocek the engine started to
overheat. Water pump problems. No problem the wind
always blows in the afternoon, NOT. Gee we are on a
roll. Well we sailed when we could and then strapped
the dink to SD`s side when the wind failed. Never let
it be said that a 15 hp outboard on a 12` dink can not
move a 35,000# boat. Lucky we have good Turkish
connections and a phone call told us who was the pump
re-builder in Gocek. Once repaired, we sailed on down
to the bay of Fethiye enjoying several picture perfect
ancorages with the ever present Turkish GuletsA must
see was the
2005 New Zealand diversion.
Well we had been talking and dickering with friends Duncan & Irena of S/V Moose to try to buy jointly some property in NZ. Mary suggests, "why don`t we cut our Turkey stay a little short and pop on down and see if we really like New Zealand". Wow, what a great idea!! See what we are getting into before investing thousands of dollars. See why I keep this wonderful lady around? Our favorite guy at Turkish Air just happened to mention that NZ was just about the furthest destination from Turkey that you could book. A few days later, we hop on a plane for our short 12,000 mile hop. We were met in Auckland by boat friends, Andy & Mirjam, from the Swiss boat "We-be-gone". They were staying in a beautiful home about 2 hrs. drive north, overlooking the town of Whangarei ( pronounced
fung A ray )
Through the whole trip, Mary and I had a hard time keeping our mouths shut because of the beautiful sights of New Zealand. It was love at first sight for us both. The country is about the size of Colorado with 1/10 of the population. Aprox. 4.2 million people with 1.2 living within 30km of Auckland. We spent the first week with Andy & Mirjam and toured the far north part of North Island. The Pacific (East) coast is very rocky with wonderful surf crashing on the rocks of the many coves. This is also the boat friendly coast of the country. Lots of anchorages and boatyards to get things done. The downside to that is it is also the costly side. We spent the next week on S/V Moose in the harbor of Tutukaka. We started contacting and looking at land listings and were told that the prices on the Tasman Sea side would be much less. That meant we needed to drive to the other side (western part) of the country, a total of only 60 miles.
About 50 miles later, we drove into the farming town of Dargaville with a population of about 4800. Picking the large realty office on the corner, we march in and say we are looking for property. 5 to 10 acres would do fine, what ya got? No land listed that small, if we wanted 40 to 400 acres they could help us out. But, wait a minute we just got this listing and it has not been released to the paper as of yet. John Powell, the realtor, hands us a paper with a few photos. Mr. John suggests that we l get in the car and check this place out. The property was 32km north out of town. NZ is very hilly and the beautiful drive made us think of our friend`s home in Switzerland. Upon driving up the VERY steep driveway, we see the little cottage ( Kiwi`s call it a bach ) and the outbuildings just waiting to be converted into our new home. Our decision took about 20 minutes. After looking around for a short while, we headed back to the office to write up a contract and make this little piece of New Zealand tranquility our own. The paper work took a day or so and we were sure that this place was toooo good to be real and it would get snatched out from under us. When John`s call finally came & he was the typical laid back Kiwi and reassured us that the place was indeed OURS.
Ok, wire transfers, e-mails etc. etc. John smoothed out all the paperwork and on 10/31/05 we became NZ landowners.It was the first time since we sold our home in 1992 that we have a home that does not float. People ask why did we buy in NZ---I usually answer with a question. Where in the USA can you buy a place with 5 acres, 2 houses ( one small cottage and one 22 X 45 roughed in house ) within 13 km of the ocean all for less than $100,000 USD? O` did I forget to say that we are located in the Tutamoe mountain range and 20 km south of the Waipoua Forest where the giant kauri trees still live? Out our windows you can see two things---sky & trees. At the top of the drive you can hear the rapids of the river across the road. Yes, we do have neighbors. If you climb to the top of our paddock you can see one about 200 mtrs. to the south. Since we thought of Switzerland on our first visit our new place is named after our Swiss friend`s home. We are Schwantlen Down Under.
2006 Summer / Winter Down Under------10 May thru 25 August 2006
As most of you know, we have a place called Schwantlen Down Under 32km north of Dargaville, NZ. Dan flew, once again, a month ahead of Mary to Schwantlen for the winter. Yes, it is the WINTER in May down there. It is definitely not the typical Michigan winter where we live in the US. Winter in Schwantlen is like late October in Michigan. Dan spent from mid May till the end of August and the coldest that it reached was +1C. For you Americans that is 34 degrees Fahrenheit.
Dan went ahead of Mary for two reasons. The first was to give a helping hand to Andy Egli & Mirjam Baumberger. They are usually referred to by Dan as "my Swiss kids". A & M own a growing IT company called IT New World and were entered in the Auckland small business trade fair. Dan flew to Auckland to lend a hand. In reality he was unaware of how much help he was since they had a friend build their show booth which was spectacular. Dan wished he had that type of talent. He feels his main attributes and expertise were as a "hoofer & toter" and "cheer leader".
Second reason to fly a month before Mary was to buy a car in Auckland and EVERYTHING for the new home. One must only imagine all of the STUFF that the average dwelling has to accumulate so that it can accommodate for one`s needs. Good thing that Dan had a 5 week head start. Plus Dan admits, and she agrees, Mary is a pain in the ass to go shopping with! Thus after several trips to Whangarei, the largest city north of Auckland and about 55 miles from Schwantlen Down Under, coming back with the van stuffed to the ceiling and the debit card a little lighter, Dan was ready to go get Mary at the airport in Auckland
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Mary flew down with our dear friend Jane Pajot. Jane was our #1 workhorse for 6 weeks. We have known one another for over 25 years but not 24/7. The three of us blended together very well. We accomplished MAJOR projects such as painting the bach (cottage) 2 coats on the outside, between rain showers. The entry way and bathroom were tiled along with a cool mosaic wall art for muddy hands. The bach ceiling was painted along with new wood trim for all doorways and window casings. The hideous green metal shed outside was painted to match the bach.
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Just so that one does not feel that Jane was slave labor, we did do fun things. A road trip was taken up to Cape Reinga (the northern most point of New Zealand where the Pacific meets the Tasman). Along the way, we spent the nights in backpacker accommodations which allowed us to meet interesting people. Visits to wineries and the kauri forest are musts along with the Dargaville museum.
One starry evening we drove to a Kauri Park about 7 kilometers from our home and trekked through the forest in search of the nocturnal elusive Kiwi bird. It was a fun wonderful walk through the forest at night with our red lights blazing, but NO kiwis were sighted. We blamed it on the noisy people ahead of us that even we could hear. Did see some glow worms however. Plus, it was winter so maybe the kiwi is less active then during the warmer months. NOT, they have to eat year round.
Evenings at home were spent by hanging out in the bach with a little wine, conversation, & the great Kiwi TV to entertain us. We all worked hard, but thoroughly enjoyed the time spent and projects completed together.
After dropping Jane off at the airport we did a week road trip south of Auckland. We stayed in the backpacker places for this trip also as it was too cold to camp this time of year. The usual temps ranged from about -2 to +16C. We drove around the Coromandel Peninsula with the terrific ocean views just a few feet from the car.
Back at Schwantlen, more bach projects were completed. Before we left in August, we had some time to begin working on the interior of the main house. It does not seem like work when we tackle a project together. We were able to totally complete a bathroom make-over. A new kitchen counter area was built and installed with the new sink and faucet so we now have a functioning kitchen area. The building of the drawers and doors will be among the many future projects waiting for us at our home down under.
The time went all too quickly and we had to say good bye to Schwantlen. We did manage to find a renter so it worked out very well for all of us. Teresa Gay and her son Kelab have a place to stay and we have built in security and the place is kept tidy. Sounds like a win / win for us.
Holiday letter for 2006
With this Holiday letter, we wish you all peace and contentment through the coming years. I will keep to my practice of not going over one page of catching up so as not to ramble, which is what I am, of course, known for when talking!
The family! Great as usual. Toby, 34, in Seattle, working in R and D for Raleigh Bicycles, has been traveling to China and in the US for the company. He feels he made a good decision to go back to Raleigh and is getting plenty of cycling time in riding 17 miles to work. Karrie, 37, and husband, Jim, are expecting a baby in February. They also made a good decision to relocate to New Mexico where Karrie is chief nursing officer and chief operation`s officer of a hospital. Jenny, 37, Kiera, 4 yrs9mo, and Derek are still in Fort Myers at their lovely country home. Kiera is growing way too fast. Jenny is director of community based programs for children and adults for the Ruth Cooper Center of Lee County working with people diagnosed with mental illness. Dan`s mother is terrific. Baking, gardening, traveling, and dancing. The traveling and dancing is with her gentleman friend, Jack. My brothers, Jon and Jeff, are doing well.
Dan and I spent last summer at our home in New Zealand. Our good friend, Jane, stayed with us for 6 weeks. She worked for her keep for sure. Gardening, painting, tiling. We did go on some great side trips to see the northern part of North Island, from Cape Reinga at the northern most point of the country where the Pacific meets the Tasman, driving down the straight beach on Tasman Sea side, and hiking along the cliffs and hills of the Pacific Ocean side. We fixed the cottage (Kiwi`s call it a "batch") and rented it out to a young lady and her son. We also worked on the main house in which we now can live while we finish the interior.
Dan is still doing his maintenance company SPENWEB UNLIMITED and I am still working for the Lansing Public Schools. Our plan, at the present time, is when our work is completed in Michigan by the fall of 2007, we will move back to Still Dreaming. We have entered a rally called the Vasco DeGama. See at www.vascodagamarally.nl. It is a total of 30 boats which will travel together starting in Turkey, to Cypress, through the Suez, to Egypt, down the Red Sea to the Indian Ocean with the final destination hopefully, Bombay (Mumbai) India.
If you would like to follow our journey you may do so at www.getjealous.com/spenweb.
Site in progress and updated when we have new adventures. Cheers!!!!
2007 will have to be thought of as our last winter, unless we choose it to be winter. Getting ready to depart Michigan and the USA for all intensive purposes our final time is a little stressful. Actually getting rid of STUFF is not all that bad. With our usual operating mode of buy HI sell LOW it is not a problem. Actually selling anything in Michigan in 2007 is a real chore. The economy is in the pits and no body is buying. We will most likely give away most of our furniture since selling is going nowhere fast! Our Mini Cooper is the biggest problem at present. We will take it with us to Florida and try to find a buyer down there. It has been a wonderful TOY and we have really enjoyed owning it but it has to go. In the mean time we will just have to enjoy family and winter in Michigan one last time.
As they say all good things shall pass---so it is with Spenweb Unlimited LLC my little maintenance business in Michigan. As of 2/28/2007 the sign came off my trusty 1993 Toyota work truck. Spenweb kept me busy and prevented me from going stir--crazy while back in Michigan. It is time to get on with our lives and go cruising full time once again. The truck will be our last ride down to Florida where it will be sold or given to charity. The one way tickets are purchased to fly back to Still Dreaming which is on the hard in Marmaris, Turkey. Sell it ALL or GIVE it away but we are OUT of here in April 2007.
Its a Boy ----Eli Michael Brazaski
Eli was born 1 February, 2007. Weight 6# 15oz 19 ¾ Our first grandson.
Karrie and Jim Brazaski live in Albuquerque, New Mexico, where Karrie is working at the local hospital, only 2 miles from their new home. Karrie has a very demanding career as CNO Chief Nursing Officer & COO Chief Operations Officer. As the CNO and COO, Karrie, has overseen many new projects for the hospital. In just 10 months since she has had the job, she is proud to say that the hospital is now in the black.
Jim is splitting his time between working at a local winery, home projects, and care of Eli.
On March 6th, Dan and mother, Eva Webster, boarded a plane in Flint, Michigan for the flight to New Mexico and meeting of Mr. Eli. Dan has done a bit of plane travel. However, Eva was a bit shaky over the flying stuff. No worries mom. Handling the bustling Atlanta airport went just fine. Eva has macular degeneration of the eyes so can not see very well. Thats ok mom, hold my hand. I cant do escalators was voiced to Dans deaf ear. Ok mom, just hold my hand and step when I tell you to. After we did about 10 sets of escalators, Eva was a natural.
Karrie had been telling us what a cute baby Eli was. Isnt that stated by every new mother? The first thing that totally struck Dan and Eva was that Eli really is very, very cute.
Even though the trip was short, it gave us some great baby Eli time. Karrie and Jim were, as usual, great hosts with good food and wonderful baby stories. We received a taste of the area with a nice hike. It rained but we didnt melt. We saw some of the N.M. landscape with nice drives around town and surrounding areas plus Old town Albuquerque. We even had the chance to share a nice dinner out to celebrate Karrie and Jims ninth wedding anniversary. Of course, we also had to take the old 4 generation photo before we left.
Time went quickly. Jim dropped us off at the airport so that Dan and Eva could have more fun on the escalators. We had a good time traveling together and sharing new and old stories. I have to say, I have a great mom, Karrie has a terrific grandmother, and Eli has a super great grandmother.
14 March 2007 --- Goodbye Sparty!
Well our wonderful little 2002 Mini Cooper had been driving Dan crazy for the past 2 ½ months trying to sell him. Since purchasing Sparty in Florida, we drove almost 50,000 miles. What a wonderful toy.
We are preparing return to Stilldreaming, our boat, and this little car just did not want to find a new home. As usual Dan always names things. What better name for a green and white Mini than Sparty? For those of you that are scratching your heads and wondering where this line of thinking came from Mary & Jenny graduated from Michigan State University. The school colors are green and white and the school mascot is named Sparty. There, as always was sound reasoning for the name. To make a long story short, we had given up selling the car in Michigan because of the poor economy. Then up pops John Neiderhausen and a deal was struck so Sparty could move to a new garage.
Dan and Mary also have to play a little match making so they invited Jane Pajot to drive them back from Johns house after a dinner together.
Good deal --- Sparty goes away and Jane and John have met.
Good bye Michigan, once again.
Marys last work day was March 29th, 2007.
We had a pizza party for the last day. Our friend Jane Pajot was there along with Mom and her friend Jack Eastman.
We were in the last stages of clearing out the flat and Jane had dibbs on a lot of stuff that her collage age kids could use. Yea, one last thing that we had to worry about getting rid of. A trip over to Bothwell, Ontario, Canada a couple of weeks earlier got rid of all my tools that I had had for the Spenweb Unlimited job. The tools were deposited at the home of our Canadian friends Gary and Brenda Everingham. Gary made a generous offer to sell the tools that could not be taken to the boat, which was really all of them. We had disposed of everything in 1996 when we left to go cruising but after being in Michigan for 4 years you ACQUIRE a lot of stuff. Just for kicks, look around your place and say to yourself ok I can take 200#s of something on the plane with me back to the boat in Turkey. What would you take? Fun, well sort of. The cars had been sold. The last vehicle, my Toyota work truck took us and all of our STUFF to Florida. I had worked out a terrific deal with an old friend and he would fly to Florida and pick up the truck the day before we flew to Turkey.
We took our usual two days to drive from Michigan to our daughters house in Fort Myers, Florida. Because Dan likes to drive & is too cheap to fly that is the usual method to transit the 2350 km south. As you can see from the photos we had a lot of things that we brought with us. We had about two weeks to pare down and repack.
Well as you all know Dan is not the sharpest tack in the board when it comes to win-link ham / computer stuff. I am happy to tell you that all my problems getting the PTC-II pactor modem up and functioning was NOT me!!!! The unit that I have been struggling with since last November was returned to the supplier and he took it apart and found that the USB interface card was defective from the factory. As most of you know I have been struggling with this system since about 1998 and now have the FORTH radio. If I would count the cost of e-mails thus far it would come in at about $150 per message. See how much communicating with all of you means to me?
While at the radio guys place I had him clip my Icom so it is now a full function ham / SSB unit. After watching him look for the little diode to take out I was glad that he was doing it for me. ------ I am not exaggerating the size of the diode was less that the length of one of the dashes that precedes this sentence. He used a lit magnifying glass and then inserted another lens just to be sure he was getting the correct little bugger clipped out.
The new card is supposed to be here next week so I will travel the 50---60km up to his shop and leave nothing to chance. I will take my computer and radio and hook it up in his shack to make sure it is functioning correctly before taking it back to Turkey in our hand carry on luggage for the flight.
If some day in the future you should receive an e-mail from n8uhw you will know that the winlink gods have finally smiled on the radio shack aboard Still Dreaming.
As I sit here in Istanbul, Turkey, waiting for my flight to Dalaman, I feel mentally urged to write a blog entry. How do I reflect on the last three weeks since May 30, 2007? Too many memories were created, too many phases of life ending with just as many beginning.
Work is done. My office and therapy room at The Marvin E. Beekman Center, part of Lansing Public Schools in Lansing, MI never looked so cleaned. It made me feel gleefully sad as my colleagues continually bemoaned my departure. I felt as though my time there met something. I will miss some wonderful children and staff.
All three vehicles were sold, each with a story for a different time. All acquired things over the last four years were sold or given away. Within two days of retiring, the flat was cleaned out and we were on our way to Florida. For over two wonderful weeks, Dan and I were able to be with our grand daughter Kiera every day soaking up every inch of her. We played board games, entertained quests with marvelous tea parties, played at the park, heard her read her books, told her ghost stories, played on Cappis playground, walked the beach and enjoyed Nannies ( Kieras great,great Aunt Elaine) pool. Easter was spent at Jenny and Dereks friends, Sammy and Sherry Nail. Of course it included a fantastic Easter egg hunt with the children.
A family outing to introduce Kiera to ice skating ended with Jennifer, our daughter, breaking her wrist. The day we flew from the US, Jenny was having surgery. My brother, Jon, brother-in-law, Stephen, and nephew Jeff flew from California. Brother Jeff came from Michigan. Nephew Jim flew in from Washington DC. They came to say good bye and bon voyage. We love them dearly! Our lives are a series of passages, always entering, traveling through, leaving, only to enter another and repeat the process but with new adventures and experiences creating all new memories.
We left at 3:00 AM, April 14th, from Fort Myers. In a rented car, we drove to Miami International to catch a plane to OHare in Chicago. From Chicago, it was a nonstop to Istanbul. From there it was Istanbul to Dalaman, Turkey, another an hour and 20 minute flight. It was then yet another car ride of about one hour thirty minutes to Yat Marine in Marmaris, Turkey arriving after 37 hours. After 21 months, we were HOME! Our boat STILL DREAMING was crammed into the corner of the storage yard among hundreds of other boats. Dirty but as beautiful as ever. Now the traveling life adventure beckons again.
We are slowly settling into life back on Still Dreaming. Weather is warm and windy. About 60ish at night and 78 high for the day. Blue, blue skies overlooking the blue, blue Mediterranean. We live on the boat while it is on the hard, ie the boat is on land. Yes, we have a 10 climb to get to our back porch. This is the passive exercise that we get that always leads to us slimming down once back at the boat, plus we have no car to run errands. The pictures below reflect our view from the cockpit and the marina in which we are presently living. For those of you who may wonder what the cost is per month to keep your boat in this marina, it is approximately $300.00 US per month for our size boat, 47 feet. Compare that to US marinas anywhere in the US for the same type of services.
Projects underway------new Pro-furl to be added to our staysail stay.
Repacking the stuffing box----we have a v-drive transmission and the access to do the job is almost nonexistent, thus I hire it done. For nonboaters, the stuffing box is the seal where the driveshaft from the engine goes through the bottom of the boat and does not let the water inside. Thus, in effect. if the packing is no longer working, the water can enter the boat at the drive shaft.
Complete new set of 5 AGM batteries---the boat sat for 21 months and for an unknown reason my batteries discharged to the point of self destruction. We have done the removal of the old batteries and will install the new ones once they come from Istanbul.
We will add pictures at a later time but wanted to a least give people an update. We left Still Dreaming on May 1st. Loaded with backpacks, we caught the 0800 dolmus (small bus) to the ferry dock. We sailed on the 0900 ferry from Marmaris, Turkey to Rhodes, Greece. After a day of sightseeing in Rhodes, we boarded the 1800 ferry to Athens. Since we booked the cheapest passage we slept on benches on the covered deck. Most of the people riding deck passage slept in chairs in the lounges. We think we had the best of the deal, all was quiet except for the hum of the engines which actually lulled you to sleep. With our sleeping bags and pads the 8 hour sleep was quite restful.
12 hours later, the ferry arrived in Athens, Greece. With the assist of information from an Australian, we rode the free bus from the port into the city to the Metro station. From there with much conflicting information, we hopped on a city bus hopefully headed for the main bus terminal. Once there, again with directions from several people, Dan made it to the right ticket agent to buy two tickets for the 5 hour ride to Perveza. Greece.
37 hours after leaving Still Dreaming, we arrived at Black Swan, a 31` yawl,owned by Claude, Belgium but grew up in England and Chile, and Nelson, from Perth Australia. We met them in 2005 in Turkey. Since here we have enjoyed the Greek cuisine, explored the ruins of Nikopolis, driven up the northwestern coastline to Albania, and walked the narrow winding roads of Greek villages. I even had a lovely swim in the Ionian Sea. Dan stated that it was too cold!! This is a guy that has done ice diving in Michigan, no less.
Our first morning on Black Swan after Nelson and Claude had left for work, a gentleman came to the boat looking for them. I was in the boat and Dan was sitting in the cockpit. I could hear them talking. Dan remarked that he recognized the man. After a few "back and forths" of was it here or there, Dan said his wife, Mary was down below. The light went on and the gentleman from England, Tony, in fact did remember us from Rota, Spain. We spent New Year`s eve in 2001 together with the other cruisers. One of those it is a small world cruiser`s story.
We had a lovely sail today on a 32" sailboat, Bonita. Sandy and Merv are friends of Nelson and Claude and soon will be heading over to Istanbul and along the western Turkish coastline. It was a shake down sail to test out their new roller furling. A beautiful sail with some very nice people.
Claude and Nelson are wonderful hosts. We shared laughs and sea stories. One day we rented a car to drive up to boarder of Greece and Albania. Beautiful views, good friends, and great cafes overlooking the sea.
Tomorrow we head out on the bus again from Perveza, Greece to Igoumenitsa, Greece to catch the ferry to Corfu,Greece. We will spend a few nights on Corfu before taking yet again another ferry to cross the Adriatic going northwest up to Venice, Italy. Again, we will ride deck class at 50 Euros each for a 26 hour trip.
Thank you Black Swan for the lovely use of your spacious V-berth.
We will continue the European tale from Venice,Italy.
We are back and working on the boat. So now where did we leave off on the Europe trip? From Corfu we ferried over night to Venice, Italy. Once again, we chose the cheap seats with others who along with sleeping bags camped out on floors, chairs and benches. We opted for some benches on the aft deck tucked into a corner. We curled up with our mats and sleeping bags and found it quite cozy fortified with Ouzo, Greek olives and other assorted munchies.
Venice, what can we say about this town. We should write about the graffiti now to get it out of our system. In major cities, Venice, Berlin, Athens let no wall go unpainted! Some of it is actually very good, what one could even call artistic so it becomes difficult to say that all of it is shameless vandalism but it is everywhere and on everything. Okay enough about the graffiti which covers Venice and elsewhere.
Venice is exactly what is cracked up to be: a city, buildings everywhere, built on very little land with a lot of water. You keep wondering about what keeps these buildings from sinking. Actually Venice is slowly sinking. We entered the waterway into the city on the ferry at daybreak. Very nice and spectacular. Leaving the ferry with backpacks and on foot, we walked to the old city with the constant use of what we call our land bible: Lonely Planet for Venice. As we became about 60% lost, we came to one of the many plazas and sat down for a coffee, tea and pastry in the outdoor café. Tired but excited, we watched as the city woke exemplified as the plaza came to life with the opening of more cafes, stores, street venders, people, etc.
We then walked along and somehow, someway we found the pension we had booked. It was just what we liked, tucked away off a side street on a small canal. Our room was large and airy with windows opening out onto the canal. We had a shared bathroom but I think we were the only room booked on the floor. A huge bed, old furniture, very clean and full of Italian charm. That is the upside. The down side. Okay, I understand I am in Italy, the center of the Roman Catholic Church. However, please forgive me but if there are any Catholics out there reading this and know the answer. Why do the church bells ring and ring and ring? Morning, afternoon, night, Sunday through Saturday. It was almost like a one ups man show. It appeared that the church very close to us would start with the bells and then all the others would follow. I decided it was the priest doing upper body exercises. At least in the Muslim countries, when one has to listen to the chanting coming through the Minarets, it is at the same time everyday so one eventually just tunes it out.
We went on a ferry for a day with unlimited stops throughout Venice and to the other islands. No, we did not ride on a Gondola as the costs exceeded our budget. They are very interesting to watch as they are maneuvered through the narrow waterways.
Venice is expensive. The price of our pension included a very nice buffet breakfast. For a late lunch we stopped at one of the many street side sandwich places for some wonderful Italian fast food pizza type sandwiches. Later in the afternoon, we would stop at an out of the way café and relished the city over a glass of cheap but very good Italian wine.One of the highlights was a concert by a Venetian string ensemble at the local church featuring primarily my favorite composer, Vivaldi, who happens to be from Venice. It was a lovely way to end the Venice portion of the European adventure.
Corfu is beautiful. It is the second largest island in the Ionian Greek Island group. After a quick view of Corfu town with a visit to the market for bread, fruit, and Ouzo,we decided the next day we would rent a scooter to ride inland and to the other side of the island.
For 25 Euros for the more powerful motor scooter we were on our way. We drove through the mountains, through small Greek villages and over to the beautiful coastline on the western side of the island. One wrong turn brought us to the small village of Glifada with a magnificent panoramic view of the island and sea. We decided to stop for lunch and walked to a restaurant to ask if they were open. The lovely young woman speaking excellent English explained that they did not open until later but that they could fix us a salad and have some pasta that the family were having for lunch.
The restaurant belonged to her parents. She and her husband were visiting. She has been living in Holland for 5 years and married a gentleman from Holland. During our delicious meal, we discovered that she was starting a business web site in Greece and her brother was returning home from the mainland to take over the restaurant. A delightful experience.
From the restaurant, we continued on our ride, again filled with forests, incredible views of the sea and winding curves . As we approached another village in which the road significantly narrowed, I stated something to Dan in which his reply was a remark to the effect that I should not worry as to his expertise at driving a motor scooter. 30 seconds, no make that 15 seconds later as we snaked curved around the middle of the village of Pelekas with people in the cafe al fresco looking on we found ourselves in a skid so fast that the bike went over Artie Johnson style (for people of the Laugh-In era) and we were on the slick stone pavement.
Several young men rushed over to help. Dan started the scooter and on we hopped with me waving goodbye to all. About a kilometer out of town, I said "pull over." We then surveyed the damage to us and mostly to the scooter. Road rash was evident on elbows and legs. We were wearing long pants and jackets fortunately. The scooter seemed okay EXCEPT for a bang up on the front. Would the man at the rental shop give the bike a good look over? One doesn´t know. We continued on with me now clutching Dan around every turn.
We stopped for a drink before we returned the scooter and then drove on to see if 1. would the damage be seen and if so 2. what would incur? As we drove up around 6:00 pm the man heartily greeted us as we were his only customers and I think he wanted to go home. He asked how the day went and we, of course, said it went well. He shook our hands and off we walked. About two blocks later, Dan remarked that the guy acted like he was half in the bag!
Early, early the next morning with backpacks and the roller bag, we trudged a long way to get the 6:00 am ferry from Corfu that would take us to Venice. The ferry terminals are large with no signs as to where you get on your ferry. With several inquiries, we were directed to the end of a very long pier. Dan asked a bus driver waiting with a tour bus. He stated he also was waiting for our ferry, the Sophacles II. 6:00 came and went, no ferry. Several other people in cars and on foot, like us, were waiting all abit confused. Yes, all were told the ferry would come to that dock at 6:00 am and depart at 6:30 am. 6:30 came and went, no ferry.
The bus suddenly drives away. We finally see a ferry approaching but not to the dock we were on. Another dock, far, yes, very far, when one has back packs and roller luggage, away. Fortunately, some terminal person with clout realized that a number of people had been provided incorrect information and he sent out a bus to pick us up and drive us to the correct spot. Thus starts the 26 hour ride northwest up the Adriatic to Venice. If you are wondering, yes, again in the cheap seats - deck passage!
From Venice we flew onto Berlin on 15May2007 to see our good friends, Christiane and Manfred. They live in downtown Berlin so it was a great way to see the city firsthand. They are walkers so we walked to many places throughout the city. We strolled along the River Spree and to places such as the Tiergarten, Brandenburger Tor (Brandenburg Gate), Alexander Platz, Potdamer Platz, famous for the DaimlerCity Complex, to the Hackesche Hofe, and Treptower Park, (the top attraction park of old East Berlin). History, change, bustling city life, decay, renewal, it is all there. A day was spent driving out and walking around the spectacular Sans Souci. Our friends are the utmost tour guides. It was an incredible way to learn about the city yet relax and enjoy the friendship and the home of friends. Our friendship with Manfred and Christiane was kindled four years ago in a boatyard in Marmaris, Turkey.
For us, World War II and before is history that we really had only read about or heard from older people. However, the Berlin Wall was OUR time. I have specific memories of hearing and watching the evening news with every night an update of Checkpoint Charlie. Manfred grew up in East Berlin. He is our age. Learning of his life when the barbed wire fences came down and the famous Wall went up was fascinating. Manfred was able to go West Berlin in 1971. The Wall came down in 1989. He and Christiane told us stories of life in Berlin with the Wall and life in East Germany yet living in free West Berlin. They shared memories of living in a world renowned city during an intense time and the rebuilding of that city after many years divided and then reunited.
Not only being a great sherpa for Berlin, Manfred was our travel agent that helped us achieve incredibly cheap air and train fares throughout Europe which made our European travels more affordable.
This brief blog is to explain why we haven`t been able to have a chance to update the blog with travel stuff. The pictures should explain why. We are waiting for the bow to be finished with moving the windlass and a new chainlocker. The insurance adjuster just found out that his home burned down in Bodrum, a town about 60 miles from Marmaris. Massive brush fire of many, many acres. So at least the picture will show you what lightning does to an antenna tuner. Once the insurance does come through we will need to wait for the new depth sounder and speed log to be put in with the new transducers. So life on the hard sometimes is just that, rather hard, and we look forward to having Still Dreaming in the water again.
Passive exercise--------When we get back to the boat we always loose weight. Dan usually drops about 68 pounds of fluff. Why---we call it passive exercise.
Here are a couple of examples------last evening about bed time I had to go to the john. Easy walk to the head at either end of the boat, it can not be more than a few feet.
WRONG---do not forget that we are still on the hard----it goes like thisclimb the 7 foot ladder to get into the cockpit then climb down the 11 foot ladder to the ground---get on the bike and ride about a block and do what you came for then go back and reverse the climbing. This ladder up to the boat is probably climbed at least 1520 time a day, if not more. I have never actually counted the times. Throw in the, shit I forgot a spanner it is in the tool locker in the salon so you can see how the trips can add up quickly.
We need sun cover protection for the boat. It is rather warm here in Turkey. If you are from the mid-west that is spelled DAMN HOT. Daily temp is about 90---105, but it is dry heat most of the time. We had been told where we could buy sun material to make a cover for the cockpit. Here comes another passive exercise thing----walk 2 blocks to catch the dolmas (mini bus that cost 1.60 USD each, one way) Walk to the farm store it is only about 200 meters past the main round-about going out of town. Well almost a half mile further we almost gave up but tenacity won out and we found the farm store and purchased enough material to make a nice enclosure for about $42 or 52 Turkish Lira. Most covers are quoted at about 400---600 Euro. What a steal. We trudge back to town.
We also needed a hose barb fitting for the engine water strainer. That only took looking into six different boat shops till we ran across the place that had what I was looking for.
See---that is what we do on a boat all day! Passive exercise is just a part of this crazy life that we love.
Fire up that Evenrude!!!!--------Well it is Friday the 13th. July, 2007.
If we were proper superstitious sailors we should do NOTHING on such a bad omen day. Not us we have to get something accomplished or feel non-productive. I know, what part of retirement dont I get? Regardless we have been on the hard a long time and we need to get things done so some day MAYBE we can go sailing. Today is dingy and motor check out day. We assemble the ol trusty
fold-a-boat and launch it 30 meters from Still Dreaming. It leaks a bit but it should ease up in a couple of days. We install the Evinrude 15 HP motor on the dink. This is what I call my Ferrari engine. This engine has been sitting inside the boat for the past 23 months. Attach the fuel line and pump the squeeze bulb till it is hard. Give her a rip and on the third pull she fires and is running great. We take her out for a short check out at speed and all is well with this engine. One down and one to go. After installing the 8HP Evinrude on the dink we go through the same pump her up and give a pull. First pull----
Bang---HoleeeSHIT the damn engine is on FIRE !!! There is an old sailor saying that no bilge pump can match a scared man with a bucket on a sinking ship. Well they can also add FIRE aboard a dink to get two people moving pretty quickly. I am on one side of the engine and Mary is on the other and we are frantically splashing sea water on the back of the engine where the flames are coming from. Lucky for us it was out in a few VERY EXCITING seconds! We are also in a very nice marina and gas on the water is a definite no no. After inspecting for any tell tale oil sheen on the water Mary comments no problem, we burned it all off so there was no sheen at all.
After removing the motor cover I discovered that one sparkplug wire that went from the spark module to the plug was missing. I think when I squeezed up the gas bulb I must have forced a bit out of the top of the carb and it ignited from the spark module when I pulled the starter rope. That is enough excitement for a Friday the 13th!!
Anyone for swim call ?
Radio Check ? ? ? ? --- NOT !!!!
After discovering that Still Dreaming had been struck by lightning on 23 June we notified the Turkish insurance company and they sent a representative out to take pictures and we think, start processing the claim. Well after waiting almost 3 weeks we were getting no where FAST. Lets start exercising our new Turkish cell phone. ( Just for kicks, we would be glad to get a call from any of you reading this-----from the US the number is 001-90-539-947-6779---I dare you to call us for a chat.) A call to the Marmaris representative did not get far, he claimed that his English was not good enough to understand what I wanted. so he gave me a number to call at the company office. He spouts off a number like 456-997. Wait a minute that is not enough numbers I tell him. Oyes his reply it is 0252-456-997. This happens all the time here, they just assume that you know that you have to dream up a few more numbers to make the correct phone number. Well, after calling this number. With the added mystery numbers included, I got a lady named Hamiette who spoke perfect English. In fact I had talked to her five or so times from Michigan when we had a problem with billing on this account. She recognized my name and said that she would contact the people to get this settled for us. Wonders may never cease, she called back in twenty minutes and said that the people from Raymarine would be getting in contact with us to check out the problem. Three meetings with Raymarine people and they would send a crew out on Saturday 14 July to remove damaged equipment and test for repair or replacement. At this point we are hoping for replacement. We have very high end gear on Still Dreaming but it is still old technology at 20 years old.. Sure enough at the designated time the crew arrive and start taking away ALL of our electronics. We are talking VHFdepth sounderradarspeed logSSBNavtextank sensors, you name it if it is electronic they leave with a large box full. There are 4 guys and their English is limited. I did understand very well when the mate took off the Kenwood SSB / Ham transceiver and looked at the back which was burned very black. His comment was GARBAGE. Thus after about 2 ½ hours they loaded up our gear and left leaving Still Dreaming with a chart table full of dangling wires and the cockpit full of holes where instruments used to be mounted. Thus, we wait once again for THE REST OF THE STORY.
Communications a 2 way street !!!
It has been fun building and keeping current this blog. We see that it is being read by about 20 some people by the number of reads on each blog entry. BUT---we do not hear from any of you phantom readers out there!!!! I guess we need a report card on how we are doing. So that means YOU need to send us an e-mail or post on the bulletin-board on the site your thoughts on how we are doing.
If you really feel communicative give us a call on our Turkish cell phone. Remember there are 7 hours difference from the US East coast time----ie 1200 in FL or MI is 1900 in Turkey. Our phone number from the US would be 011-90-539-947-6779
Now that the marine here in Turkey has just updated their wi-fi system we can do internet and skype calls from the boat-----really neat!!!
Hope to hear from some of you and see what our report card is for the site so far.
Thanks----Dan
May 23, 2007
May 27, 2007
Now that we are back in the water, we have no excuses for not continuing with our European adventure. We had a very comfortable train ride from Berlin to Amersfoort, Holland to visit with friends Greet and Kees. We met Greet and Kees in the Azores. On the island of Faial, the marina in the city of Horta is where most of the boats coming across the Atlantic to Europe make landfall. The sailboat Ahoy with Greet and Kees rafted up beside us at the marina in Horta. They were completing another Atlantic crossing bringing the boat to the Mediterranean after sailing throughout the Caribbean and the east coast of the United States. Many evenings were spent gaining knowledge from their experiences and travels. Ahoy has now been sold and Greet and Kees have purchased a lovely home in Holland.
They picked us up in the train station in Amersfoort and drove us to their home in Sherpenzel. Immediately we saw that indeed, Holland was the land of bikes. Time was spent getting reacquainted. We enjoyed the wonderful sherry, the great conversation, and memories, and of course the salted herring.
Holland is quite like we envisioned it would be. Greet and Kees informed us several times that the area we were visiting was much more wooded than the rest of country. We visited the small village of GIETHOORN. In the town ENKHUIZEN, we toured a museum (open air) which was one of the former trade harbor towns on the western border of the former SUYDER SEE, in proper Dutch: Zuider Zee which became the Ijsselmeer. This is now divided in a southern and northern lake (fresh water). On the way back we visited the small former fishing town of ELBURG, where large beautiful well kept wooden BOTTERS were moored.
The weather was perfect. Holland is clean, refreshing, full of people on bikes and people on boats. Whar more can you ask for? We thank Kees and Greet for a wonderful time and hope they will able to visit us someday either on Still Dreaming or Schwantlen Downunder in New Zealand.
Finally WET !!!
Well after several weeks living on the hard and climbing the 10 foot ladder to the back porch Still Dreaming is now afloat. We launched on 28 July . It is very nice to be afloat again. Jobs are still continuing to be completed. Mostly completed by Dan and Mary.
We look around this beautiful marina and Dan often states with a small grin hell of a place to be STUCK. The boat has lots of holes where instruments once lived and wires sticking out but that means that progress with the repairmen and the insurance company is moving forward. That is, I think it is! We have had two meetings with the Turkish insurance company, KOC Alliance and have been assured that the claim will be paid and equipment replaced. Thus far it has been all talk but we think we are making progress.
When we look at the damage that the lightning did we are constantly amazed that the boat did not catch fire and take several other boats with it.
We will try to keep this blog up to date and it is much easier now that we are in the water and the marina has a wi-fi internet connection so I am sitting at the chart table typing this entry.------------more later---Dan
Making progress------------9 August, 2007
Since returning from our European Friends Drop in Vacation, we have been back to the boat almost two months. Things are getting completed but much slower than we would like them to be done. The tally of projects completed by professional help is as follows;
New windless project is complete----windless was removed from anchor well below deck level and relocated on deck. New teak chain locker doors and foredeck, also teak, were rebuilt. Chain locker was moved aft about 16 inches and a new bulkhead was fashioned in the sail locker which now holds 30% more chain. We now carry 285 feet of 3/8 inch high test chain. With the new system, I will have to bat the chain ( physically give the pile of chain a push so it does not stack up and choke the windless) about 3 times for 150 feet. The old system required 100% attention and hand flaking of chain or it would jam within about 3 feet. HUGE improvement!!
Bottom paint was applied. This was a treat to have this done in 100+F temps by other people. We usually do this task ourselves.
Stuffing box was repacked------with our engine system you can sort of see and barely touch the box----real nightmare to even get to the area let alone service. The packing is a Teflon impregnated cord that wraps around the drive shaft to prevent water from entering the boat.
New Pro-furl roller furling system for the staysail was added. The old, but in extremely good condition, hank on jib will be re-cut to do staysail duties. This system allows us to let out and take in the sail with ease. The sail is permanently wrapped around the forestay (12 mm wire attached from the deck to near the top of the mast).
All electronics have been removed by Raymarine to be replaced shortly. WE HOPE !!!!
Dan & Mary projects completed are----------
5 100ah gel batteries were installed ---400ah house bank and 100ah starting battery.
New Balmar regulator was installed which allows the 200 amp alternator to charge the batteries efficiently when the engine is running.
Several seacocks were found stuck open so they were replaced. Drains and heads are always problem areas.
New Vetus engine raw water strainer installed. This project only took looking in about 6 different shops in town to find correct bronze hose fittings to mate different size hoses coming from engine and filter housing.
Built new pasarelle ( boarding ramp to get on boat) still waiting for the wood to be delivered to complete this job. The redesigned aluminum ladder is doing great. We are usually at anchor and do not need one. Since many technicians have been off and on boat is makes life easier.
Installed a new wind generator, the brand is called KISS made in Trinidad. . Have been carrying this unit in a locker for over three years but feel we will need it once we get out of this damn marina and cruising again.
Installed new bilge pump switch. Rule super switches like to fail regularly so went with a high tech unit by Ultra.
Relocated and added cabin fans where necessary. When it is 38---44C. You NEED FANS !!!
Added screen sun shade to shade the boat from transom to mast. Without this addition the boat would be absolutely unbearable. Purchased netting from Turkish farm store that they use to cover fruit trees to protect fruit from birds. This is wonderful because it provides shade and lets the breeze flow through and another plus is it will not become a sail when we are at anchor.
Replaced forward head hoses that were cut to provide access when the seacocks that were frozen were taken out.
Cut and whipped new sheet lines for 150% jenny and stayisail.
We do take a few swim breaks when we get too hot. Thus you can see that we have not been totally lazing around, even though retirement is supposed to be lazing. At least that is what I heard somewhere.
Dan
Now that we are back in the water, I do want to complete our European vacation. After Holland, we returned for a few days to Berlin to visit again with Manfred and Christianna. We then rode the morning Metro train to the airport to fly to Switzerland to see good friends, Sandi Egli and Christian (Crigi) Golfetto in the beginning of June.
We hiked on trails in beautiful mountains by incredible rivers and waterfalls. Crigi took us caving, truly caving in mysterious caverns that the real cavers go into. We went climbing on cliffs that offer fantastic views and make one feel like they truly are only a few steps behind the REAL mountain climbers. Dan calls is cable climbing. At all times, one is attached to a cable via the use of carabiners.
We stayed in Sandi and Crigis chalet home in the hills overlooking beautiful farm fields seeing the cows and hearing the bells clanging around their necks as they graze. Yes, a real Swiss chalet home in Switzerland.
We met Sandi and Crigi when they were sailing with Sandis brother, Andi and his mate Mirjam on the sailboat Webegone in the Western Caribbean.
Sandi is busy with their dog, Filou, winning dog agility medals. On a bit muddy day, we went to one of the tournaments to see how it was done. Very interesting to watch, the dogs and especially the dog trainers and owners.
Sandi and Crigi are extremely busy with their GOAT HIKING business. After numerous write-ups in magazines and newspapers and also winning a national Swiss new business award, PACKGEISS adventures is up and running. It is interesting to see how it is done.
As always, a thank you to Sandi and Crigi for the wonderful time with them.
Once again, we needed to think of getting home to Still Dreaming in Marmaris, Turkey. However, there is one place that we have always wanted to visit in Turkey before we sail away. That area is named Cappadocia.
We flew into the large city of Antalya and spent a few days. After riding a bus for ten hours northeast we arrived in the area known as Cappadocia. We stayed in the Fair Chimney Inn which at one time was a Byzantine monastery. As the pictures indicate, the area is covered with fascinating rock formations.
Millions of years ago, due to volcanic explosions, a thick layer of volcanic ash covered the area which then hardened into soft porous stone. Wind, water and sand eroded the stone to produce the fascinating surreal unearthly shapes.
One may give their own interpretations of the shape of many of the rock pinnacles. I guess if one wanted to be quite discreet, they could say they look like Morel mushrooms but the phallic appearance is simply too apparent and comical. The inhabitants could easily work the stone to carve out a number of rooms for homes or churches.
We laughed at the sign someone had placed in the middle of the small, touristy town of Goreme regarding the distance of New Zealand. Dont we know it?
From Goreme, we again rode the bus overnight, finally arriving in Marmaris around 10:00 AM. Another ride on the dolmus (the jitney) to Yacht Marine and Still Dreaming. Home after 6 great adventurous weeks.
Of course, it was the next day that we discovered the lightning strike and then the next chapter began.
To all my far flung friends----------------It is with true mixed emotions that I write this entry concerning my mother Eva Webster. We received the call on the boat at about 0815 Turkey time 28 August, 2007 that Eva had passed to the next world, if there is such a thing. No one really knows for sure but we all have to get there in our own way.
Mom went dancing at the Eagles club with her friend Jack Eastman in April only a few days before Mary and I returned to Still Dreaming. From dancing at the Eagles Club to passing in just 4 months.
Cancer has now claimed another person. My mom fought it off for 7 years.
I talked to her only hours before she let go of life. She was in much pain the last few weeks and I could never say I would want her back to go through more. I believe her quality of life was gone so I feel she is better off for her passing. She was a great mom and I will always keep her in my heart.
I have tickets back to Michigan to plan the memorial services. I should be back to Owosso about Sept 13----15 time frame. We will get the material things sorted out in the next few months and will be at the following phone number and would love to talk to each and everyone of you if possible. +1-989-723-7732 . This is Eva`s home.
Our plan is to keep Still Dreaming in the water at Yacht Marina in Marmaris, Turkey until the spring. When I have successfully completed Eva`s affairs, Mary and I once again be return to the cruising lifestyle and enjoying our wonderful home, Still Dreaming.
Love ya mates,
Dan & Mary
0 to 3 in 2 --- (read on!)
That is how it went for us regarding land based houses. As you all know we have been living on boats since 1991. After renting our home in Owosso, MI for one year we sold it in 1992.
After so many years with no land base, it was thought that it may be a good idea to have some land roots. Is this the beginning of old age planning on our part? We purchased Schwantlen Down Under in 2005 in Dargaville, New Zealand. This little plot of 2 hectares (5 acres) came with 2 houses. One very tiny unit called a batch and a larger, about 900 SQ Feet, in which we are remodeling into our home. After the memorial service for Eva was completed on 22 September 2007, which turned out very well and was attended by about 100 friends and family, we acquired another house. Thus from 0, we now own 3 houses within 2 years. We do not want property in Michigan. Selling Eva’s house will help us get back as soon as possible to our real life, sailing and traveling. Much easier said than done to sell a house in Michigan at the present time. Michigan is ranked third in the nation for home foreclosures. Almost every street in Owosso has vacated houses owned by banks that are not selling. Our friend, Jim Noble is a realtor in the Lansing, Michigan area and he told us that there are three reprocessed homes every day in his area. This is not a stretching of the truth it is a fact in our area. We listed the house with a fairy tale hope that it will sell. Quickly would be have been nice. Mary and I like to think of ourselves as doers not wishers so how do we make this happen and quick? De-clutter the house was the immediate goal so it looked better for that all important first impression when the hordes of buyers stormed the place with money in hand. The hordes did not come but the de-clutter went into high gear. Eva was a tidy homemaker but she was also a saver. Saver of everything that had to do with family, that equated to Dan, the only child and of course Karrie and Toby also part of the cherished package. Thus for days, Dan would hear Mary from another room give the familiar cry, “Oh wasn’t he soooo cute” which just meant that she came across another picture of Dan age from birth and beyond . Even Western Union cable letters announcing Dan’s birth to family back in Michigan since Dan was born in Carmel, California. Never did Dan really forgive his loving parents for relocating him from California to Michigan. Hey, in the 60’s every guy wanted to be a surfer dude which was doable in CA. not in MI. Dan always said his Mom could shove 10# of stuff into a 7# bag. De-cluttering was a major operation. The Salvation Army store saw us frequently as we unloaded yet another van load of Eva’s cherished stuff. With clutter gone, it was time to paint and spruce up the place. Lucky for us, Dan’s Uncle George lives just across the street with the necessary tools needed for the projects. Dan just needed to find them and carry them across the street to get the jobs done. Also lucky that Dan wasn’t working with nonpowered tools as often happens that small projects would grow into large ones rapidly. The debunking, as we call it, of the back porch area started quickly as old ratty shelving was ripped out. Then that made the untrimmed windows look bare so trimming around the windows came next. The ceiling was bare nails and rafters, thus new ceiling. The flooring – new indoor, outdoor carpet would be perfect. The place is starting to look very nice and we keep telling each other that it is just adding to property value and making it easier to sell. After a month with no action on the selling faze we had a meeting with Realtor Jim and because he is a friend first and realtor second he says what the heck try to rent. We had talked to the daughter of the fellow next door on one occasion to sell the house to her. Due to her financial situation it was not the right time but would she rent? It appears that she and her husband are going to rent the house. We want to be out of Michigan by mid December. To be with family for Christmas in Florida. It is now 2 November and we had ICE on the lawn furniture last night. Time to get the hell out of MI!! Hopefully the next blog will be from Florida, California, and New Zealand.Dan & Mary, still dreaming & doing.Hattie wins the “turkey trot.” --- November 20, 2007
One of the great benefits of the communications era is instant notification of important events. Such was the phone call from daughter J in Fort Myers received in Michigan by Cappi & Mutti to tell them that the school’s annual turkey trot was won by Kiera ( Hattie) Sliman. The school in Fort Myers, Florida has eleven kindergarten classes. That means that the girl’s trot had about 85---100 little girls lined up for the yearly affair. Jenny and Derek were present for the race and it started to get REAL exciting when they realized that Hattie was running in the number three spot. As the screaming parents yelled to push it was heard by Kiera, she did indeed kicked it in for the last twenty yards and smoked the other two girls just feet from the finish line.
Thus with the new information Mutti and Cappi have bragging rights and can send out this note to anyone that may wish to view this family event.
Braggin Cappi
HAPPY HOLIDAYS
to you all, a great season of fun, merriment, and joy. As always I will keep to one page. Thank heavens for changing the type size.
Dan’s mother, Eva, died shortly after her 88th birthday from the effects of her cancer which had returned in July of 2007. We returned to the US on September 10th. Karrie, Jim and Eli from New Mexico, Toby from Washington, and Jenny and Kiera from Florida were able to be at the Memorial service on September 22nd. We celebrated Eva’s life with a memorial service that gave tribute to her kindness and her love of life, family and friends.
Family --Karrie, husband Jim, and their beautiful, personality plus son Eli are doing great. Eli was born Feb 1, 2007. Eva and Dan flew to New Mexico in March to meet Eli. Toby is traveling for the bicycle company, Raleigh, and working hard. When not in China, Taiwan, or various places in the US, he is in Seattle. J, Derek, and Kiera are in Fort Myers where Kiera has started kindergarten. The latest to report is that Kiera won the Turkey Trot race at her school being the fastest girl out of the10 kindergarten classes with 20 to 22 children in each class.
Travels --Dan and I flew to Turkey to prepare Still Dreaming to leave the Mediterranean via the Red Sea. We worked on the boat for ten days and decided we needed a vacation. So via ferry, bus, plane and train we visited friends in Greece, Germany, Holland and Switzerland. Along the way we spent some time in Corfu in which we proceeded to have a grand slide off the rented scooter to the ground coming around a curve in a small town. Scrapes and battered egos, we righted the scooter and zoomed away waving to the staring people seated at the outdoor café. We spent a few days in Venice. Loved it, however, for the first time in Mary’s life she became claustrophobic as another wrong turn ended at a damn canal. Talk about needing a city map. A handheld GPS would have been a great idea. Many special memories with wonderful people, Manfred and Christiania in Germany, Kase and Greet in Holland, Sandy and Criggi in Switzerland, and Claude and Nelson in Greece.
Woes --Lightning strikes! We found that all of our electronics, batteries, compass, VHF, ham/ssb radios were KAPUT due to a lightning strike hitting the backstay destroying the antenna tuner in the rear port lazarette. Still Dreaming was on the hard (land). People indicate that it probably happened in the winter of 2005. We spent last summer in New Zealand.
Upon dealing with the Turkish insurance company, other major work on the boat, and replacing the instruments ruined by the lightning we received word that Dan’s mother was ill. Thank heavens for WI-FI and SKYPE. On a daily basis, Dan completed boat work around 1600 (4:00 PM) 9AM US time and carried the laptop to the marina office or library. He then was able to speak directly to doctors, his mother, and hospital personnel.
Plans are to spend Christmas in Florida. After seeing family in California we will fly to our home in New Zealand for their summer. In April, we will return to Still Dreaming in Turkey to continue cruising.
Love and Peace – Mary and Dan
FROM OWOSSO
As of 1440 hours on 12, December 2007 we are officially from Owosso, Michigan.
It was a typical “Michigan Day,” i.e. gray, dreary, and about -1C, for US readers that’s 30 degrees.
We have been working very hard since the memorial service for Eva the end of September. We cleared the house of clutter, installed a new utility room in the unheated entry way to the back door, put in closet doors – and the list went on. This required quite some jury-rigging in which Dan appears to be a master. After cutting a hole in the back wall of the house and installing a fan between the walls to suck warm air into the new unheated washer/dryer area, the thermometer told him that he needed a bit more heat to keep the pipes from freezing once the outside temperature fell below -8 to -10 C. With the addition of a new brooder light from the farm store the new thermostat kept the room at about +3C.
In the last week before departure, we managed to rent the house and began the process of selling the back half of the lot to the neighbor. We seem to be on a roll. Presently, we are in Belleville, Michigan at Mary’s brother’s home enjoying a wonderful real wood fire and drinking a nice French cognac to what will probably be our last evening in Michigan for quite some time. Tomorrow we leave MI to head south to Florida for holidays with family. Plans are to visit with more family (Stefan, Jon and Toby) in California for a few days and then fly to New Zealand on 21 January, 2008.
FL-Dec 07--------CA—Jan. 08 The Michigan weather was telling us to get the hell out. We drove south from Belleville, Michigan just ahead of the snow. The Ohio snow turned into rain as we approached Tennessee. Arriving in Fort Myers at daughter Jenny’s home on Dec 18th. gave us a few family days before the rest of the family arrived from Mich. (Jeff Jahr) and DC (Jim Jahr). We had a big family Christmas get together on Christmas Eve and a larger get together at Aunt Elaine’s with more family on the 27th. As happens with many holiday get togethers, lots of food and way too much consumption. Good times, good food, and best of all good people.. Christmas Day, Manfred and Christiana, from Berlin, met us at Jenny’s house. We chatted and caught up on life for a couple of days and then hooked up the pop-up camper to explore for a few days in the Florida sunshine. Even though we had the sun, the temperatures decided to fall, crash may be a better word, into the damn chilly zone. Regardless, we had fun hiking in the woods, talking around a camp fire, and walking the beaches. The days flew by. January 9th came all too soon. We tearfully said our “love you and see you soon” to Jenny, Derek & Kiera to fly to California for a few days with more family. Toby just happened to be working in California and took a few vacation days to spend with us and Jon. Unfortunately Stefan was busy with a new start up company that refurbishes horse racing tracks. We saw him for a day. No we did not take him to the dictionary and show him the definition of retirement but it looks like he is having fun & making money. Who can argue with that combination? We walked the nearby California beaches with Toby and Jon. Hanging out at an interior designer’s home is quite lovely. A 5 star experience. A rental car was needed to drive 7 hours north to connect with nephew, Jeff, and his wife, Rika, to see their home in Hayward, CA, by San Francisco. We stayed three days with also a chance to connect with Mary’s cousin, Karen, and her husband, Dan, who live close by in Oakland. They own Gallant Racing so this Dan looked forward to seeing the layout and wish for a chance behind one of the wheels of their race cars. Along with Jeff, we went with Dan and Karen on a tour of the City of Oakland waterfront and we made plans to have a huge meal at Jeff’s place the following day. The meal was a good excuse for gathering and watching a football game (American) on Rika’s Christmas present of a 52” hi-def television. We had to ask who was playing in this playoff game and be told “NO this was not the super bowl”. Good company, good drinks and a pool table came to an end very quickly. Our drive back to catch our flight out of LAX was planned perfectly to miss all the rush hour driving on the congested California freeways. We made the 6 hour trip with maintaining over 50 all the way except for very short periods entering the city. Our flight to Auckland left at 2230 hrs.with a layover in Fiji of 7 hours. At the present time we seem to maintaining our chosen lifestyle pretty well on our shoe string budget. We travel the cheap seats BUT travel we do. As we sat in the open air café at the Fiji airport we did a quick tally of countries and states that we have been in the last 10 months. Turkey, Greece, Italy, Germany, Holland, Switzerland, Canada, US (Michigan, Florida, California) and in 4 hours back to our new home in New Zealand. Ah, finally arrived in New Zealand. We are presently in Auckland with good friends Andy and Mirjam. After their business meeting tomorrow, they have offered to drive us the three and half hours northwest to the house and spend the weekend. A NEW!! New Zealand chapter begins. Later Dan and Mary
We are back in New Zealand at our terra firma home named Schwantlen Downunder. Our NZ home is named after the home of wonderful friends in Switzerland, Sandi and Criggi, who live in a fantastic home called Schwantlien on a high hillside. When we saw this home in NZ we had the same feeling of being surrounded by the beauty of the land filled with peace and contentment. We live in what the Kiwis call a shed. We call it a garage. If anyone would have imagined, let alone “me” (Mary) that at age 59 I would love living in a garage, working daily to make it into a livable home, I would have said only one word “crazy.” We are doing just that, slowly making the “shed” into a home. The bathroom is completed, the stove and washing machine are hooked up, the phone and dial up internet are connected, the stereo plays all day, and if needed or just to be enjoyed in the evening the wood burner gives us a wonderful fire….. day by day it is turning into a home that sits overlooking incredible green forests, valleys and low mountains. One hears the birds, the cows in the neighbor’s paddocks, and the river. Occasionally, a car or truck weaving their way along the curvy Trounson Park road far down the hill can be heard. In the past two weeks since arriving in NZ besides the “work” we have been to the beach about 12 km away. The Tasman Sea on the west coast of NZ, for Mary, can be compared to the west coast of the US in Northern CA, Oregon, and Washington. We were very excited to see our first seal playing in the waves close to the rocks at the north end of the beach. Dan is looking forward to learning to do a bit of surf fishing when the time can be arranged between projects and trips. Parts of it are considered legal roads and during low tide one can drive for miles upon miles seeing nothing but beach, the sea, dunes, and low mountains. No signs of houses and very few people. The Tasman can change in temperature or temper quickly depending on the direction and intensity of the wind. A brisk southerly coming up from the Antarctic can cause roiling majestic breakers. A northerly, in the direction of the equator, causes always present waves to wash in from a calm sea. We have taken time to do some hikes. One of the numerous coastal hikes in NZ goes from the beach nearest our home, Aranga, along a coastal track that can be a three day hike. Our friend, Mirjam, (from Auckland) visited for a few nights with her Aunt Sylvia and her Aunt’s friend, Lucette. Sylvia and Lucette were on a three week vacation to NZ from Switzerland. We hiked 5 hours along the coastal track overlooking the Tasman, walking through the bush (forest), pushing through huge stalks of flax, and relishing the breathtaking views. As our friend, Andy, would say “fire up the barbie.” And we have! Terrific barbecues at Schwantlen Downunder have been with friends Florian, Lili, and 6 year old Reagen who came to visit from Whangarei, a city on the Pacific side about 50 miles away. Andy and Mirjim were also here having met us at the airport in Auckland and then driving us the three and half hour trek to Schwantlen. We visited the fresh water lakes near us called Kai Iwi, about a 20 minute drive from the house. They are similar to the beautiful clear lakes in northern Michigan such as Torch Lake surrounded by pine trees. The exception is that there are NO cottages, only some camping grounds. Power boats are allowed on one of the three lakes. Bushy-tail opossum are a real problem here; they eat kiwi eggs which is a BIG no no in our opinion. Our trap is ready set with a small bit of apple with a dab of peanut butter to entice the critters. A couple of days ago we did catch, which kills, one critter and I threw it away. The next day our Kiwi friend Robin told me he had a good recipe for them on the barbie. Now Dan is itching to get another so we can taste the little varmints. Of course, they taste a bit like chicken. Isn’t that what they always say about exotic food choices? Will let you all know how the barbie feed goes. More to follow. It is approaching the middle of February which means the middle of the summer here. The children are back in school. Before the fall chill starts to set in the air, we are going to head to South Island for a few weeks.
Since we sail, we have encountered a few “sea” stories. This is a SEAL story. There is only one endemic mammal to New Zealand, a small bat. No one mentioned the seals. Along the east coast of New Zealand are numerous seal colonies. The small tourist town of Kai Koura, on the eastern coast of South Island, is home to one of the colonies of the New Zealand Eared Fur Seal. If you are prone to crossword puzzles you will note that the eared seal is a favorite.
At high tide, Dan and I planned our hike from the car park that started overlooking a few seals on the rocks below. We timed the hike so that we would tramp along the high coast overlooking the beach for about 5 km, 2 and half miles. Being such intrepid sailors we are knowledgeable about tides. As low tide approached, we would then hike back to the car park along the rocky coastal shore.
The sights along the bluff looking out at the Pacific were sensational. The sky was clear and the sun shown brightly. After about two and a bit miles we then could hike down to the rocky shore and walk along the rock strewn beach. With the keen interest of gaining knowledge, we read the signs informing us that once leaving the path to the shoreline that there was NO managed path, the shore was accessible only at low tide and that the seals were wild animals that could bite when approached. The signs went on that a hiker should not get within 10 m (30 feet) of a seal, seals could be dangerous animals when frightened, and to not get between the water and the seal. Okay, okay. Interesting for sure and off we trekked.
The bluff stood high above us and we crossed over rocks and around the tidal pools. Soon we saw an occasional seal lazing in the sun out on a rock. Then we saw two, three, four seals sleeping like dogs stretched or curled among the rocks. Some would take their flippers, like a paw and scratch their back. Some would rub against the rocks to scratch and itch. Again like a dog others would turn and get that itch with their nose. I would take a picture here and a picture there.
We had hiked along the shore about 30 minutes. We saw a tunnel of rock before us and rocks along the sea. I had to take a “wee” but knew that I would in a few minutes or so. Maybe after we explored the tunnel of rock. Dan went in first as I adjusted the camera. I saw Dan walk in and lean down to look into a crevasse. Then I heard the roar. No, let me restate that. Then I heard the “ROAR: I no longer had to go “wee” as much. Dan came out with his eyes huge after just being roared at by a huge male seal. Dan remarked that the seal reared his head toward Dan clearly indicating that his rest was not to be disturbed. Dan said that he was able to look out the other end of the tunnel and to get down we probably would have to step on the damn seals.
We could walk around on the shore between the two rocks. I look at the rocks. I look at the two seals sleeping on each side of the rocks. Those 30 feet from the seal would basically come down to two. Dan and I were in a quandary. We seemed to be meeting more and more of these critters. Do we keep going as we were over half way back to the car park or do we walk back along the shore in which we came and then climb to the bluff and return? Are we going to encounter more and more seals? We start walking back. I still had to go abit of a wee. Okay, we are fine now. I start to walk up to some rocks along the shore and proceed to unzip. I see Dan’s puzzled face peering at me. Then I looked to my right and a mere few feet away, oh dear, another seal, rather large as most of them were blended in well with the rocks. I certainly am taking care of the wee problem but not in a very sociable manner.
We hiked much further than expected but again put it all down to just another sea…seal story
In March, I turned 59. Boldly, I tell Dan right up front what I want to do for my birthday. This year, as we were touring South Island, I stated that I wanted to do a helihike on the Franz Josef Glacier.
When visiting my brother, Jeff, in Michigan, we had a chance to meet my cousin Allen’s delightful daughter, Megan McKenzie, who had traveled to South Island. She showed us pictures of hiking the glacier and I was hooked.
We shelled up the fee, $ 360.00 NZD each, and made arrangements to do an afternoon hike. The weather was beautiful, sunny and warm. We wondered what it would be like on the glacier. How do we dress? What do we take? I stuffed the backpack with extra clothing, water, sunscreen, etc. We went to check in. NO backpacks allowed, only what goes in your pockets. A water bottle was recommended. The company provided boots and a jacket with no pockets. Therefore, we stuffed our pant’s pockets with camera, water bottle, and the bottom legs of our zip off pants.
There were 5 in our group. 8 total including the gray haired couple, the 50+ somethings, and the young guide. 5 young, healthy, active looking souls, 4 women and one man. As we departed the helicopter on the glacier we began to be a bit skeptical if we made the right decision to zip off our pant legs. A chill around us with the wind whipped up by the helicopter caused us to stand there shivering. I was chosen as the volunteer by our guide, Jason, to demonstrate how the cramp-ons were attached to the boots so you could walk on ice and snow at a slant. Once the cramp-ons were in place, we began to start walking like we had been tipping a few. Jason remarked that after 20 minutes it will be as if you had walked with these spikes forever He was correct.
Jason looks at his group. He sizes us up. Staring at Dan and me, he states that we all can go on a casual walk or take a REAL exploring glacial hike. Were we ALL up to it? Okay, here are 5 people, plus the grayed haired older couple. Who would be the SPOIL sports of the group? I gleefully speak up and say, “We will do whatever is fun.” Off we go. Ach!!
Sliding through low little caves and jumping across crevasses that when you looked down seemed endless provided a rush and outright fear. Jason, our apparently fearless leader, did just that, lead. I ,of shorter legs, would come up to a crevasse, look down and say … well nothing, as I am not that religious but just “hell I better do it or they will never find my body.” Dan was there to lend a hand across and one time I needed the assist of another group member.
Dan remarked to a very pretty young, twenty something, that “Jason, the guide, judges the speed by the old farts (meaning us).” She remarked, “I am glad you are here because I would not have been able to keep up at a faster pace.”
We hiked the ups and downs, ins and outs, of the glacier with Jason cutting steps for us or axing into the ice to determine if it was safe. We went through a glacial tunnel that if one looked down, well just don’t look down. I would personally like to thank our very good friend, Criggi, in Switzerland. Criggi and his mate, Sandi, are expert cavers. Dan and I went caving with Criggi (another blog). I remembered his suggestions in walking along a crevasse. It helped keep me secure on Franz Josef.
At the end of the hike, we reached a glacial water pool. Does anyone want to jump in? I thought about it. Then the sanity of age took hold. I remembered jumping into Lake Superior when I was young and dumb. I thought “well I am older and probably dumber but I will forego a dip into the glacial lake of Franz Josef.
SILVER ANNIVERSERY------25 years of marriage --- WOW !!!!Well as they say “time flies when you are having fun.” It is a whole lot easier to spend all that time when you are married to your best friend.How did we celebrate the big occasion? Well, since we are presently in NZ at our home which is a project underway, we went shopping. Silver plates and tea pots --- NOT.We went to the big city, Whangarei, which is 80km drive away. We went to the Bunning’s lumber company. They are the NZ version of Home Depot in the USA.We came away with 20 liters of paint; a flash new ladder & an air compressor for our power nail gun & lots of small bits and pieces for home projects. We did have a wonderful dock side dinner at the Whangarei yacht basin. We were joined by Lilli, Florian and little Reagan. It was very nice to sit and see all the boats and chat with friends. Of course it made us miss Still Dreaming but you can not be in two great places at once. For now we will enjoy our stay here in NZ & plan our next adventure. Sure glad that my best friend is here working and playing and making the best out of life at my side.Dan
Clamming or musseling has always been something we have wanted to do. When we were in Maine years ago they had red tide, no clamming. When we got to NZ we had heard that the green-lip mussels were very plentiful. You can buy them in all of the markets; buy them, to us that would be cheating. The decision was made to “give it a go” as they say here. Check the tide tables on the internet. Musseling has to be done at low tide when the rocks are exposed and the mussels are able to be seen and harvested. Winter is coming thus it rains frequently. After several tries were foiled by the rain we finally had a rain free afternoon with a low tide at 1600 (4:00 pm). Off we go to Manganui Bluffs (about 13 kilometers from the house) at the Tasman Sea. The very steep, very bumpy road meant a shift to 4X4 low range to make it to the beach. When we arrived there was a family of 5 already collecting. My first thought was the hope there are enough green-lipped mussels to go around. The legal NZ limit is 50 a day per person. After a quick look at the rocks it became very apparent that we would not run out of mussels before we had our daily limit. I am talking thousands and thousands covering the rocks. The trick was to try to get to the biggest ones. Wearing a pair of rubber work gloves and toting a bucket, Mary and I started clambering over the rocks in search of the largest ones. It only took less than one hour for us to collect our 100 limit. Back to the van with the hope that we can get up that bumpy damn road. On the first run I was not going fast enough to get over the last hump. Back her down but not too far because then there is the chance that the wheels would begin spinning which would bury the van in the mushy soft sand. On the second go we just barely made it up and over the hump. A bit of excitement to end our first mussel outing. Back at home I fire up the barbie and chuck the clams on for a good feed. We were told that when the mussels would open up when finished. It took a couple of tries but we got the timing down and feasted on a great mussel meal. Only 25 mussels were grilled. We should have cooked many more as they went down way too quickly. The rest are sitting in a bucket of salt water to be consumed in a day or so. Reportedly, the mussels will last for three or four days in the bucket of salt water. Should be eaten by then.All in all musseling 101 went well and received high grades. All is as “good as gold”.Dan
Road Kill Stew The other day I was spreading “metal” (Kiwi for gravel) on our extremely steep driveway. I had to, once again, borrow our good friend Robin’s trailer and head off to the quarry to get another load to spread. Rabbits appear to be stupid animals the world over. A large one sat by the roadside and darted out from the safety of the grass only to be creamed by my van. What to do? A perfectly good dead rabbit. It would be a real waste to just let it lay there and get flattened by other traffic. I stopped the van, walked back, and picked up the animal thinking I had the makings for good road kill stew... When I arrived home and jumped out of the van Mary made the comment that I was really starting to look like a local, dirty work jeans, rumpled shirt, hat looking like Alligator Dundee’s and of course gum (rubber) boots. When I reached between the seats and displayed my new catch she was sure the statement was true. Off I trek to the chopping block to dress out the rabbit. A bit of internet surfing and we had the recipe for our next meal. Mary cut up the rabbit and with a few veggies and spices chucked it all in the pressure cooker. A short time later we sat down to our first road kill aka rabbit stew.Great meal at a very reasonable price. Dan always does free very well. Did you check out the blog on the mussels?Dan
When we were doing our South Island trip almost three months ago, Mary posed a question to me, “What would you like for your big 60th birthday?” I thought for a few minutes and my answer was in three parts. The first two were easy----I wanted a new barbie to grill on and a new shed / workshop at the house. The BEST present would be to have our son, Toby, here to celebrate my birthday. Mary listened and then put the wheels into motion behind my back. Life went on and we continued very hard working on house projects. Mary and I work well together and heaps of things were accomplished. Almost daily, the garage was looking less like a garage and more like a real home. We did agree that I would have a BD party and it was scheduled around our Swiss Kids schedule which would be 31 May. For some strange reason Mary was really in a rip to get the house ready for the party. Somewhere along the way, Mary told me Florian, a sailor friend, called and asked if we could go to Whangarei, on the Pacific side about 85km away to help him with his boat on the 21 May. Stupid question, would I want to spend a day aboard a real cruising boat and help a friend? Off we go toWhangarei on Wednesday 21 May to meet Florian at the marina café at 1000. As I was about to walk into the café, Mary looked at me and said “Happy birthday”. I walked around the corner; saw Florian (who had picked up TOBY at the Whangarei airport an hour earlier) and Toby sitting at the table across the room. I think my exact words were “HOLY SHIT, I got my wish!!!! Of course soft hearted Dad could barely keep the tears of joy at bay as I hugged my BEST Surprise EVER !!! Actually for Mary to keep a secret from me for more than a day was a real accomplishment. With the cat definitely out of the bag, the three of us went party shopping at the local food stores. The party planned for 31 May, I thought, was actually planned for the 24th, May so Toby could meet our friends. Three days later we had a great cookout on the new “barbie” with our Kiwi mates. We had a great showing with about 15 friends from the local area for a wonderful evening. We shared lots of laughs and a few beers, unfortunately there were very few pictures taken. Where were our heads? I think I thought about this approximately an hour after everyone left. Toby stayed to the following Wednesday. We tried to show him a bit of North Island close to where we live. Unfortunately it is now winter here thus it rains ALOT. We did get him to the kauri forest with a few hikes to waterfalls. The week went way too fast. Wednesday, 28 May came. We drove Toby to the Auckland airport and Dad as usual said his goodbyes barely hiding the tears of joy. Thanks to all of my Kiwi mates for making my day very memorable. Thank you Mary, Toby and all of you that were in on this great surprise for giving Dad just what he wanted for the BIG 60 !!!!
This blog is dedicated to our Swiss Kids, Andy and Mirjam. It is a long story, but we met first in Guatemala, in 2000, when we were checking into the country. We were on our sailboat, Lifes Dream. Andy and Mirjam sailed on Webegone. We became better acquainted and the friendship gelled when our boats were pulled out of the water to work on them in the military base at Porto Cortez in Honduras. After several weeks together in the boatyard, projects completed and back to sailing, we hooked up for lots of diving, sailing, and great fun in the Bay Islands of Honduras. Over the course of years we did road trips which included camping together in Switzerland, Italy, and France. After several visits in Switzerland and staying in contact through phone and e mail the years just flowed by. Andy and Mirjam, along with Irene and Duncan on the boat Moose, can be credited or blamed, depending on our feelings at the moment for introducing us to NZ. Andy and Mirjam sailed Webegone to NZ from Florida arriving early 2005. When we took our little, half way around the world, diversion from Turkey to NZ in 05 we stayed with Andy and Mirjam which were then living in Whangarei, NZ and with Irene and Duncan living in Tutukaka. We fell in love with this country and in a few days purchased Schwantlen Down Under. Andy and Mirjam are the knowledgable locals who now live in Auckland. IT Net World, selling and installing the German made Swyx voice over IP business phone system, is their new emerging company. These guys are our New Zealand computer guru contacts and are heaps of help when we are in and out of New Zealand. When arriving in Auckland A & M pick us up. Drive us 4 more hours north and drop us off at home. They are there for most major projects, whether it is shed building, putting up carports, painting etc. Plus Andy is the “barbie king” & always has the energy to whip up great meals after a long day of projecting. We love you both------thanks for your help and support.Dan
Because we can only stay in NZ for a certain period of time (6 months in and 6 months out or 9 months in and 9 months out) we are leaving in a few weeks. We have chosen the 6 months in and 6 months out.
I want to reflect on our time here in our adopted country. I ask NZlanders if they know what a beautiful country they live in. They, like all of us, say yes but take it for granted. I will reflect of our first full 6 months in this island country.
What do I leave with?
The open spaces. Only 4 million people occupy this land. Most of them reside in Auckland. Towns exist as towns. No long extensions of strip malls that connect city to city.
The people. As they should be, NZlanders are extremely proud of their country. They have a fantastic sense of humor. My kind of humor. The people we have met share and state their opinions and not are afraid to express themselves. Whether you agree or not they like to engage in conversation that makes you think. Do we fit in or what? I leave here with having made friends that we know are going to be life long. They are encouraging us to try and achieve residency and because of them I think we will try.
This land. The wind, the rain, the beaches, the green, the topography, the austere beauty, the sea, the hills, the mountains, and should I go on? Within our reach we have indescribable beaches, forests, hills, and a kind of eerie mysticism that exudes through the land. Peter Jackson has it right on.
Where are we? I like this feeling. I know I can reach the people I love but I like being removed from all that is going “crazy” in the world. I sometimes need to gaze at the atlas to reflect how far I am from the rest of the world that I know. The United States where all the people I love aside from Dan reside and Europe that I feel attached to because that is where we have been cruising and of course Turkey where our other home is.
New Zealand is a land that has captivated my heart. I did not expect this. I just wanted land, terra firma,that I could be comfortable in and AFFORD while not on the boat. We thought the home we bought would be a good investment. As we leave to new adventures aboard Still Dreaming, our cruising home, we know that we will return to complete many planned projects on our 5 acres, our home and property, called Swantlein Downunder. We will return with continued enthusiasm to explore the incredible piece of land on this earth called New Zealand and foremost be with people we treasure as true friends.
14----16—July 2008 Hey, I am not cheap. Frugal sounds much better. OK, if you are checking this blog you know me and a spendthrift I have never been. When we were going to NZ inJanuary 08, we knew we must show tickets for ongoing travel outside of New Zealand when we were checking into the country.
I suss out the best deal on travel. This time I went through Orbitz and booked planeflights from NZ to Istanbul Turkey. I had never heard of the airline Aeroflot. It is a Russian airline based out of Moscow, where else? Hey, Orbitz would not lead us astray. The last week at Schwantlen Down Under was a flurry of activity getting the house buttoned up to leave, cancelling phone, internet etc. We had to say our so longs to our Kiwi friends that have been so wonderful to us. Olaf and Sigga Bayer were great to take us to Auckland which is a 3 ½ hour drive from our home. To top it off they would not even take a penny for fuel, which is at $2.00 + a liter. We are finding that this is just typical Kiwi. Are we lucky or what? In Auckland we always stay with our Swiss kids, Andy & Mirjam that live in the middle of down town. Mirjam drove me to the airport where I had to say my SAD farewell to Mary for a while.
I was off to the boat and she would be returning to the states for a while. She had a party to attend for our brother-in-law Steffen’s 65 birthday in California. Then on to Florida to be with Jenny and Hattie for awhile. Thus I start my journey back to Still Dreaming. I do regress a bit here, bare with me. When I arrived in NZ from the US I was allowed 2 checked bags with a weight of 22.7kg. each. I find out from Mirjam that Air New Zealand on which I flew for the first leg of the journey allowed one bag 20kg UNLESS you are flying back to the USA or Canada
Shit, big problem. I have lodes of boat stuff to take back. So goes a complete day shuffling gear from my bag, with the must go stuff, to Mary’s bag which can come later. Mary is my ace in the hole, as usual, for she is going to USA and can have the 2 bag allowance. I load up my hard suitcase ( hard suitcase only because I need a strong case to protect the electronics gear otherwise it is cloth to save weight) with what I feel are the essentials. About 92% is boat gear and the rest clothes wrapped around things for padded protection. Wow, a 20kg case is bloody heavy. OK a little thinking and I have the perfect plan, so I thought, tie the suitcase to the rolly bag that I use as a carry on for it has wheels. Cool, transportation problems solved.
At the airport in Auckland I check in for my departure at 2300. Bags have been double checked by me for weight. I even have a warm jacket over my arm so it will not be weighed. I am off to countries with the temps in the 30C area. Jacket is not needed, but thought it would make for a good pillow along the way. Easy sailing as my bags are EXACTLY at the max weight. Overcharges by Air New Zealand run $35 a kilo, remember now Mr. Frugal?
It was a bit shaky when the, I am sure new, trainee looks at my paper ticket after a very long pause and says you are going to Istanbul---where is that? Hate it when I have to explain to people that are supposed to know the information. OK, regardless, I am on my way. Off more or less on time for leg one which goes from Auckland to Shanghai, China, about a 10 ½ hour flight.With such a late departure time once in the air they quickly give you a meal then shut down the lights and expect people to nod off for a few hours. I have the luck to be the middle seat on a 3 seat row. Once the meal is over people begin to mill about the cabin and claim the available seats so they can stretch out on 3 seats for a snooze. Well my timing is a little off and all the lay down space is claimed. I go back to my center seat and find that the lady on the isle scooped up a nice 3 seat-er so at least I can squirm a bit right if I want. Have a big bloke to my left and he is taking up ALL his area but sleeping quickly. I am fighting a new NZ cold so sucking on my throat lozenges I nod off and actually sleep for a full 8 hours. Of course sleeping in a plane can never be called restful.
Arrive, Shanghai, China---0745 local time---Wow this airport is so modern it looks like out of the set of the Jetson’s TV show. Couture roof, marble & carpeting to walk on, moving sidewalks, air conditioning has whole place nice and cool and everything looks new.Look at the huge check in board and they say isle C. Yes, they have it in English. Walk around looking for Russian airline Aeroflot. No where to be seen, I circle twice to be sure. Find an info area and show ticket and ask for Aeroflot. Guy points to where I had just come from and says “not yet---1 ½ ---2 hours.” Goodie more waiting, guess I will plop down and people watch. Have to just watch because the chatter about me is 100% Chinese thus I can not even eavesdrop. About 2 hours pass and there is a little action down the way. Amble down and Aeroflot sign is posted, on a roll.
I presented the paper ticket and of course there are questions between attendants. They take my passport and ticket and do some computer checking and chattering among the assembled group. After a few anxious minutes on my part they give be my boarding pass. Also tell me of a 5 hour delay because of Aeroflot plane juggling. Good news, sort of, is they will provide a free hot meal in a couple of hours. At this point I really do not give a rip, I am tired but at least in the correct airline departure area and we will leave at some time.After the nice meal & more people watching we finally have the go sign. Just a note, all announcements are in Chinese immediately followed in English.
Off to Moscow-----At this point I can not even remember what day it is let alone a time. Arrival and the taxi in looking out the window is such a HUGE contrast from Shanghai. Typical of what you have always been told of Russia, buildings are dingy grey block buildings and everything looks a bit tattered. I once again go to information / check in area and ask where do I go. Gate 17 but first the guard / attendant must come through the locked glass door and points to the right. A short way on I see a line forming at the gate so I step in. In front of me I see an x-ray machine, typical, but people are taking out everything for inspection. Pockets empty, belt off, shoes off, SOCKS off. Hey no problem I have clean feet, at least they were a day or so ago. When it is my turn I present boarding pass and passport. NO—now gate 15 with a finger point in the direction. This modern?? airport has no air conditioning nor fans and it is about 28C inside. Hardly any seating, lots of people are sitting on their bags on the floor. The place looks like a duty free shop stirred up with a spoon. No rhyme or reason how it is laid out and little signs telling where the strangely arranged gate areas are kept. Well I find gate 15, stand in line and once again—NO—come back 1 hour. I do manage to find a seat among the duty free shops and plop down next to the snoring fellow stretched out hogging the valuable seat space.
When the allocated time is upon me I return to the gate, gee this check must be for the clean feet people for they do not require shoes and sock removal. Once in the gate area I quickly grab a seat and expect an hour or so wait. Remember, it is pretty hot in there coupled with no water fountain or toilet and about to cram in more people than seats. Finally, boarding call---let the adventure continue. Arrival Istanbul, Turkey---------hey no worries mate---I have been in this airport several times so know the ropes. Go get VISA for Turkey, sign says $20UDS. No problem I have three $20’s in my wallet along with my Turkish money. I present a bill---NO---has to have BIG HEAD on bill—whew I do have one with the correct picture. Long line at immigration but I have lots of time to kill. Breeze through and go to pick up luggage. Go to the nothing to declare aisle and walk straight through, the guy is not looking at anything. It is now 0200 local time and I am now pulling a rolly bag carrying a 20kg hard suitcase with my computer backpack on.
My next step is go to the subway and ride a ways and get off across the street from the main Istanbul bus station. I am a bit paranoid about taking this ride at night, have seen too many law & order programs with subway problems. Find a seat and once again idle away time till it is at least light out. At this time I am wide awake so I read my book and kill time. At about 0600 I am sick of waiting plus it is getting light outside. I get a subway route guide from the information booth along with confirming directions. Out the door I go turn right and in 50mtrs. take escalator down and walk to the subway pay booth. Have to stop several times along the way, this damn suitcase gets heavy really quickly. What a bargain the subway is 1.40. Piece of cake mate, at this time of the morning the subway is practically empty. Count the stops---10---everything is in Turkish BUT my stop is the only one that starts with an E. No worries, I have been here before and things are looking familiar.Exit subway ---bus station---- stage right.
The Istanbul, Turkey main bus station has to be seen to be believed. We are talking bus parking for over 200 buses and ticket sales for a hundred or so different bus carriers.I cart my crap across the street and go in the first office and ask for a bus to Marmaris. Not here but he walks with me to sidewalk and points to one that can help me. Bus ticket for Marmaris please. OK—leaves at 2300 tonight. SHIT---waiting around for another 18 hours is not exactly what I had in mind. Are their any buses that go in the day? Gives me a name and points. Two more stops and all are night only buses. This shit is getting old. I am thinking that this adventure is turning into more like a nightmare. Finally someone along the way directs me to the DAY bus. Ticket to Marmaris please. It is now 0645. OK—bus leaves at 0700---my spirits sore---back to the adventure.
Long distance bus travel in Turkey is very nice. You are assigned a seat and it almost looks like a plane except you are on the ground. My assigned seat is next to the aft exit doors. One problem this seat has about zero leg room. Bus is empty and I should have dashed into the office and changed my seat to across the isle, which had nice stretch out the legs room. I didn’t----big mistake. I know this is going to be a bloody long trip for I have done it before. Off we go and I just grab a comfortable seat somewhere else. Well several stops people have MY seat so I bounce back and forth between where I am supposed to be and where it is more comfortable.
Now the bus stops quite a bit and there are always announcements as to where we are and what is happening----of course in TURKISH. Along the way we are served coke, water, munchies. Couple of times I ask the attendant something and he tells me in perfect English “speak Turkish.” The only words he knows that I can understand. Well I see the system so sometimes I dash for a pee or water or whatever. OK—we pull into a big, 200 bus bay station, and I spy the WC sign and note we are in spot 153. Off I go and get rid of my excess water. Hurry back to spot 153------HOLLY SHIT THE BUS IS GONE----now I am looking around like a deer in the headlights and seeing my boat stuff and computer gear going to never never land!!!! Once again, for some reason, I stand out from the crowd of Turkish passengers and an attendant flags me down and says the bus line name, which sounds like Camel Kock, along with 22 and jesters that it is on the other side of this HUGE bus station. I do not know if he means stall 22 or what, there are about 200 different bus line ticket booths and I know that my shit is disappearing in my bus and I do not know if it left without me or not. I see an exit isle and #30 sigh above. Cross fingers,22 should be close by IF it has not left already. I am in luck, the bus is there and I scramble on board and yes my computer backpack is still safely under my seat. That got exciting in a hell of a hurry. Sit back and let my heart slow down and just try to nap and read a little and idle the time away.
Arrival Marmaris bus station. This is all familiar ground and I know where I am and where I am going. Taxi, taxi I am asked. Are you kidding, Mr. Frugal knows that on a short?? 1km walk there is a dolmish (a small local bus) stop and it is only 2 lira ride out to the boat. These bags are really getting heavy so I stop every 50 meters and sweat and rest. No worries mate it is 2200 and the dolmish runs till 2400. After what seems like forever I arrive at the corner for my inexpensive, NOT cheap, ride to the marina. After about 2 minutes the marina bound dolmish arrives and I pile in for the last 8km to home. Arrival back at Still Dreaming. It is 2330 hrs. Everything is quiet and I am HOME at last. I have traveled about 2/3 of the way around the world in about 2 days with a nice relaxing?? 14 hour bus ride to boot. The adventure or ordeal is over---- the only very hollow feeling in the pit of my stomach is that my dear Mary is not here with me!Make the best of it, as another chapter is started. Dan
Phantom followers------Please check in !!!!! Hey folks, see that box up on the top right called Message Board? That is for you readers out there to add your 2 cents. That way we are not writing to the black hole of cyber space. An e-mail to our regular address would also work for us so we know who is following and what you think of our blog. I am back at the boat and very slowly getting her cleaned up and stuff stowed where it belongs. They have made great improvements with the Wi-Fi network in the marina and I can now send e-mail and even Skype from the navigation station aboard Still Dreaming. I check spenweb05 several times a day. I also have a Turkish cell phone that I keep on and would love to hear from anyone at the following number. If dialing from the USA it is 011-90-535-854-9786---Remember the time difference 0700 in MI or FL is 1400 in Turkey or call when you like and talk to a sleepy guy. Mary is in Florida at daughter Jenny’s house, getting her Mutti / Grandma fix with our six year old. Also trying to get her Speech Pathology papers in order for an attempt at residency in New Zealand next time we go back to Schwantlen Down Under.I miss her greatly. It is not good to split up Laurel & Hardy even when it is necessary. Hope to get some feedback from the peanut gallery out there. Later mates.Dan
Tis a cruising we shall go. We’re back together in Marmaris on Still Dreaming. I arrived minus one bag, exhausted into the breezy, hot, dry Turkish weather with Dan meeting me at the airport. A great homecoming as I jumped into his arms. The bag arrived two days later at 11:00 pm,2300, directly to the boat all intact.
After sleeping for three days, I believe my internal clock is now in sync with the time here except for the weather. The days are hot, high 30’s C. However, around 1800,6:00 with the lovely coolness of the evening and absolutely NO bugs, I feel energized and ready to go. That means at 11:00,2300, I am still ready to go. Therefore, getting up in the AM is abit rough. Days seem to melt by, pardon the pun.
Breakfast, boat work, talk with friends, go on the small bus (dolmus~) to town, shop, look up friends in town, more talk, work on boat, swim, kayak out to see friends at anchor, talk with friends. Life goes on. We are paid to be in the marina until the end of the month.
Last year before leaving we paid a surveyor to survey the boat to obtain insurance to sail east and south. He completed the out of water survey. We then returned to the US due to the death of Dan’s mother. We said to the surveyor we will finish the “in the water portion” upon our return so the survey would be as recent as possible. The surveyor has now had a death in his family so he will be returning from Canada the middle of September. The upshot is that we need to hang around Marmaris, probably at anchor, until the survey is complete. From there who knows, only the wind gods I guess.
We had a guest on board last night from Israel and thoroughly excited us to stop in Israel prior to entering the Suez Canal. I have always wanted to go to Cyprus but people are saying docking is limited and expensive with no good anchorages. We just have to peruse the guide books and charts.
We have met some other boats that are also interested in going through the Suez and Red Sea about the same time we are. One boat has already done it twice. Boats will leave Turkey in the winter, sail through the Suez and stay in some marinas in Egypt for the winter. They then return to cruise Turkey in the summer. A boat can go each way through the Suez Canal (two times through N to S then S to N or vice versa) for one price if it is within a six month period. We will keep going south.
As you can see from the pictures, that I enjoy using the computer now that we have wireless set up from the boat. Dan does not particularly enjoy boat jobs that are perplexing. He is changing the rusted out spreader lights but he thinks that the circuit breaker in the main panel is also broken. All jobs when thought to be easy end up NOT! Dan received his daily exercise quotient going up and down mast about 6 trips and the job is not complete.
However, what is the phrase, a “bad day” on the boat is better than a “good” day at _________.
Also had to get in a current picture of our granddaughter, Kiera. The time I spend with her is magic and pure joy. She is fun, bright, polite, delightful , I could go on and on. Knowing our lifestyle, the time together is …what is the word ..ah “priceless.”
Out of the marina at last. We decided to leave the confines of the marina which of course has access to a store, great bathroom facilities, a laundry, a short walk from the bus stop, and WIFI!!. A beautiful marina which was costing us 10 dollars a day. What did we get by leaving ---FREEDOM. Swinging on the hook, as they say. We simply have to conserve on water now, use the dinghy as the family car, etc.
Life on the hook can be the best and worst that living on a boat has to offer. When the wind comes up, as it often does in the afternoon, getting to shore can be challenging. “Watch the backpacks, especially the one with the laptop”, “watch your shoes so they don’t fall in the water“, “watch the grocery bags“, “ be careful with those charts we borrowed that we need to copy,” “could you PLEASE get the dinghy closer to the painter (rope) so I can get it untied” (or tied as the case may be). That is getting into the dinghy with all repeated and then some when we attempt to get out of the dinghy.
My favorite time of day in this anchorage is late in the afternoon when the Meltimi (wind) dies down. The sun starts to set over the mountains, the weather is comfortably warm, no bugs due to the dryness, the waterskiers, jetskiers, windsurfers from the nearby all inclusive hotel called “Magic Life” are now at dinner and silence falls across the bay. Lights start to pop up from the city about 6 km from us as do the lights from the separate cottages in the forested hills belonging to “Magic Life.”
In a few hours the music will start at Magic Life. Since this place is definitely NOT cheap the bands they hire are very good so I figure we get a listening performance for free. Interestingly, the guests at Magic Life are primarily German, Turkish, Italian and the music is always a mixture of 50,60,70,80,90 American rock,blues,swing, etc. The singers who probably speak very little English and even that would be English English are spot on with the accents of the likes of Buddy Holly, Frank Sinatra, Cat Stevens.
Now that the sun has set we also can enjoy a new treat for us. Watch a movie, thanks to boat friends that have come from Malaysia with a 400 movie selection. Pirated movies are very cheap in that part of the world. Fun for an evening’s entertainment and free to boot. With constant sunshine and a nice breeze our solar panels and wind generator keep the batteries nicely topped up. Currently it is blowing about 12kts and the machines are putting in 6.5 amps and we have 13.6 for voltage. Life is good.
Sometimes I think to myself this has been a wonderful place to leave the boat. Many people from Germany, England, Holland, and France keep their boats here. They can fly to Turkey in relatively few hours and keep their boat in a 5 star marina with wonderful cruising grounds and beautiful weather for less money than they would pay for a marina where they lived. Why would someone want to leave? The Med with its beautiful water has few fish and fewer things like coral and plant life to see. The other day when I was swimming, Dan asked me to go under the boat to check the knot meter which was not registering. Dan has rigged up a “hooka” system (long air hose with regulator attached to a scuba tank). He threw me the regulator and turned on the tank. Then, for the first time in 5 years, I sucked in scuba air, swam under the boat and cleaned out the little paddle wheel for the knot meter, as colorful little fish swam around me. HM!!! There are jokes made about people becoming “dive” junkies. I didn’t think it was true until I had a regulator in my mouth and was under the boat.
Sunday we go to the boat jumble and barbecue at the marina. When I first heard boat jumble I thought it was a race for dinghys (the boats not the people). It is a flea market for boat gear and such. If I was so inclined I am sure I could off load much weight from Still Dreaming and try to get it on someone else’s boat but too much to do. Kayak, swim, read, write up the blogs, watch movies late into the night and most of all be Dan’s gofer as he completes a multitude of tasks before we officially start this cruise.
One of the tasks was getting the life raft inspected. I will leave this blog with a “cliffhanger” I think the authors call it. Just to say that if we need the liferaft in the Red Sea or Indian Ocean I think the term would have been " You are SOL.”
Will the life raft work if you need it?
The life raft companies say that a life raft should be inspected once a year. We bought ours in 1996 when we first went cruising. We had it re-inspected in 2001 when we set out across the Atlantic.
Just a thought, now that we are cruising once more, may be a good idea to inspect the life raft again since it had been almost 8 years. The life raft weighs about 90 lbs so getting it out and into the rather wobbly dinghy is no mean feat.
Dan dinghy the raft to shore where the man was waiting to put it in his vehicle to take it to be inspected. Dan wanted to be there when they inspected the raft so he dinghied to shore later in the afternoon, caught the dolmus (small bus) into town, then walked to the industrial/work area. He watched intently as they opened the raft. The raft looked good, the rubber looked good, the lines, the materials, etc. and so forth all looked good. Now the man removes the CO2 bottle and weighs it. The bottle when loaded with CO2 should weigh 13 ½ lbs. Alas, the “ all looked good” came to an end. The CO2 bottle weighed 6 lbs.
When the boat in which you where on top of the water is now below and in your panic survival mode you pull the life raft canister’s rip cord, the CO2 should blow the top off the canister in which the raft is packed with the raft being totally inflated in a minute. Our raft due to the weight of the canister and raft by not inflating probably would have sunk. The raft man sent the CO2 bottle for inspection and refill. About a week later, we returned to see the raft repacked into the canister. The problem with the CO2 bottle was due to the rupture of a tiny, smaller than a dime, pressure disk allowing the gas to slowly seep out.
It was an education to observe, first the liferaft in its entirety, the taking the air out of the raft and the repacking. Personally, we hope the ONLY time we ever see it is in this “inspection” mode.
For those of you wondering what this cost, it was 518 Euro or 923 Turkish Lira. That included inspection, repacking, and new hand held flares and sky parachute flares. One less thing to worry about as we set out for the Red Sea.
Still Dreaming and crew take a small jump into the electronic age of sailing.
Being the frugal bloke (sorry Rob of S/V Danny’s Fault, I prefer frugal than cheap) that I am, when someone offers you navigation systems for free I jump at the chance. I always need to learn a thing or two and it helps to improve one’s navigation systems.
I met Jack and Joanie, from the Canadian yacht Joanie D at Yat Marine in Marmaris, Turkey. Jack is a teckie systems sort of guy and had a free upgrade DVD disc for the Max Sea navigation system. This system contains ALL the charts of the world and you can do way more things than I will ever know how to. Jack burns a DVD for me and this is the start of a really cool system that needs to be installed. We also have to thank Joanie D for many hours of viewing enjoyment with the loan of DVD movies from their 400 volume collection. Really nice mates to say the least. There were a few beers that changed hands but that is to be expected among cruisers. Being a plug and play sort of a fellow, I am stymied with installing and getting this system working aboard Still Dreaming.
Another sailing friend Nelson, an Australian, from Black Swan jumps to my aid. Having been a professional sound mixer in OZ he is very computer savvy. This is also the time to call for help in getting another system which intrigrates with the Max Sea mated up and running. I purchased the AIS system with the aid of our nephew, Jim, at the Annapolis boat show October 07. The AIS, Automatic Identification System, is a system that tracks boat traffic and is required on all large commercial ships and also is becoming more common on smaller vessels like ours. Through a VHF signal received on a separate AIS antenna and integrated with the lap top computer one can track other traffic around you. Speed, direction and even the name of the vessel shows up on your computer screen. Lucky for me, Nelson is a tenacious fellow and after several hours of his button pushing the two systems were able to talk to each other and we are now Max Sea and AIS chart system operational. We won’t say how many trips that I had to go to Marmaris to get all the bits and pieces , VHF antenna, coax cable and special end fittings for the AIS. The only compensation was a few glasses of juice and my undying gratitude to Nelson (you are a champ).
On a recent provisioning run to Rodos, Greece (25 miles from Marmaris, Turkey) the AIS was tracking 23 other craft within about 60 miles from us. The Max Sea system has a little red boat, representing Still Dreaming, sailing over the chart and keeping track of our correct GPS position at all times and charting AIS targets in relation to us. Really cool system, thanks Jack and Nelson! This intrigated system does not do away with the $900 worth of paper charts that Mary picked up in Florida, but is a fine addition for the safe navigation of Still Dreaming.
The Max Sea chart program lets you do all sorts of neat navigation things. We need to play with it and get used to all the systems that allow you to do receive information such as depths, chart distances, tide information, zoom in and out on the area of operation etc. All the charts of the world are there to assist with planning and dreaming. Even though I am new to the system it already looks like it will be used more and more as the months and the miles under the keel slip by.
Still Dreaming screamed over to the Island of Rhodes ( Rodos) Greece, 25 miles from Marmaris Turkey. The prices are better for provisioning and friends were there.
When one does not have a car and A LOT of stuff is needed then the nearest place to a super market is the best place to moor. Up a channel and tied off to a concrete wall among fishing boats, large piles of garbage, a few cats and a few dogs but only a ten minute walk from the store is where we put Still Dreaming. The place was dreadful but safely across the harbor from the gypsy shacks with packs of dogs, dozens of cats and HUGE piles of garbage with fires burning. The first thing was a fisherperson telling us to lock up at night for security. We were rafted with our friends from Black Swan. Even though it was daylight, Claude and I stayed aboard our boats while Nelson and Dan did the shopping.
In docking the boat, we have a fishing boat VERY close in front and a power boat VERY,VERY close behind. Talk about a good time to learn boat docking. Mary for the FIRST time ever docked Still Dreaming into the very tight berth. Hell, why have I, Dan, been sweating over docking for all these years. She did make it look so easy. The pier curves so it is not a straight shot out forward or backward.
The next day with the shopping completed, we attempt to leave the concrete dock. The wind was coming across our beam keeping us against the dock. Dan keeps a fender on the bow as I attempt to go forward with the wheel hard over to force the aft end out. The wind increases and I basically chickened out and was afraid that by the time I was able to get the boat into full reverse we would be taken by the wind into the boats behind us.
We wait and call our friends on Black Swan who left earlier before the wind increased that we are stuck against the pier. Other friends, Sandi and Merv have arrived via ferry. Nelson calls to ask if they come could we do it with more hands? After much line and fender moving with Nelson at the wheel, Dan at the bow, Sandi, Merv, me on the beam and with the assist of FOUR!!!!! Greek fishermen we did indeed make it off the pier. With no damage done, no less. As Dan always comments that in moments like that the main thing is to finally be able to SPIT again.
We anchor in an anchorage where the big ships come in. Ever so quietly they come and go. The cruise ships are lined up chalk a block. In the early morning they are gone to be replaced by more in early afternoon.
We enjoy Rodos, the town, and the island. The ancient thick walled city protecting a mass of homes, stores, churches, etc that provide a labyrinth of walkways and narrow streets that is simply fun to get lost in.
We enjoyed our time with friends in this interesting place. However, the weather was indicating that where we were anchored was not the best. We decided to head back to Marmaris. We needed to return, YET AGAIN, to complete matters regarding the survey and the insurance before we set off down the coast and then south towards the Suez.
We sailed and motored back to a bay just as you come into the larger bay of Marmaris. We tied off stern to ( Mediterranean moor) the shore with an anchor off the bow and a line run from the stern to shore. A wonderful swim, hot shower on the boat, and dinner. Very nice. Later that night severe thunder storms and lots of rain. We collected so much fresh water in the dinghy that the next morning we did an entire wash of clothes, towels, and bedding. I am sure the huge tourist boat (Gulet) with the Germans paying high prices to come to a delightful Mediterranean anchorage enjoyed seeing us do the wash by hand and our underwear flap in the breeze from the boat lines like signal flags.
Though buckets of rain, thunder, and lightning (no strikes this time) we were protected from the wind and we kept saying that for once, the right decision was made to leave an anchorage and sail onto a more protected area. Presently anchored in another bay in the bay of Marmaris. Wind is strong but we will attempt to dinghy to shore to get to the WIFI area of the library at the marina to send this off.
3 October, 2008Finally heading east-------------We are now out of Yacht Marine & Marmaris Bay. Nice to be out of the marina and on the hook as they say. We are really not marina people. We have spent way too much time in a marina these past few years here in Turkey. The marina setting is very conducive for meeting other like sailors and enjoying their company. Many boats are in a confined area . For the social aspect marinas are great but you can not beat free which is the cost to swing on your own anchor and also having your own space. Could it be compared to living in the city versus the country?Anchoring----------- volumes could be written about our anchoring fiascos . Actually we feel we are pretty good at it after all these years. “Have we dragged?” is often asked. There is a old saying “if you have not dragged, you have not gone anywhere.” I guess our record thus far, not that we try to duplicate the screw up, is about 300 meters. Of course that was in Belize when a guest had just gotten aboard for a stay on Lifes Dream. Enough said right Nora?The anchoring in Turkey presents some interesting challenges. The anchorages are very deep and typically shared with several other boats. An anchorage will usually have Turkish “gulets” that are charter / day tripper boats. Most gulets are very big about 70’to 120’ on deck with loads of chain for the anchoring task. I believe most gulets carry about 500---600 feet of chain. We only have a measly 285’ of 3/8” high test chain with a 88# delta anchor. Since the anchorages often are somewhat confined and very deep the usual maneuver is to drop a bow anchor and back up to shore and then run a line to a good rock on the shore and winch in the boat for a secure night’s rest. It is a easier task if the dingy is in the water with the motor running and ready for the fun. Sometimes we pull this off very nicely. Other times we provide the comedy relief for the evening as we run about like keystone cops on water hollering at each other.The trick with the dingy and motor is to run the nose of the dink into the rocks (one reason I love the fold-a-boat----you can not hurt it) leave the motor in forward and hop out and throw the 10’ loop of chain attached to the 150’ rope around a sturdy rock and you then just winch the boat in toward land and you are set for a sundowner. Well that is how it goes when it works well. We will let you use your own imagination what it is like with a strong cross wind and only Laurel and Hardy aboard to provide the keystone cop skit.Yesterday we had our deepest anchorage to date. In the Great Lakes the usual anchorage depth is approximately 10 to 15 feet. Here it is usually 10 to 15 meters or MORE! Now that we are east of Fetiyae Bay everything is new from here on out. We had a very nice sail and entered a bay near the city of Kalkan that was written up in the cruising or pilot as they are called this side of the Atlantic. A cruising guide is one that you definitely do not leave home without. Local knowledge is wonderful and the books have pictures and line drawings of places to spend time in.It is about an hour before dark and of course the closer we get to anchorage area the harder the wind starts to blow. At least this anchorage is open and not a tie to shore needed. One problem it is bloody DEEP. We are sharing mutual anxiety because the damn depth gauge decides to take a break so we do not know actually how deep it really is. Actually the sounder was not working because it does not register when the water is over 600’ deep. We creep toward shore and want to distance our self from the other 5 boats already settled in.Finally we are in soundings and the depth sounder starts working again but the anchorage is over 200’. We work closer to shore and finally give it a go. When we dropped the anchor the sounder is reading 99.5’. That reading is from the bottom of the keel so it was actually 105.5’. The Anchor goes in and the chain rolls down as the boat is blown back by the wind. When we stopped, I had about 3’ of chain left in the anchor locker.We let the wind set the anchor for us and I checked it several times before dark. Murphy’s law works on water also. The wind immediately dropped to about 5kts and never came up all night. With so much chain out and so little wind we slept very soundly only to worry if the electric anchor windlass had enough juice to lift it all in the morning.Just to make you Americans feel a little better about fuel costs at present-----diesel here in Turkey ,converted into US dollars, is about $10.80 per gallon. We do try to sail as much as possible. We have read that diesel in Egypt is more like 60 cents a gallon. Think I will wait & top up down there.As we slowly get back into the cruising mode boat projects are getting completed. Today we installed the new lazy-jacks. These are lines that catch the sail when you pull it down and allow the sail to flake and lay on the boom ready to be tied up and the sail cover put on. The old line was not strong enough so we up-sized to stronger line. It works great.Since we no longer have marina wi-fi we will have to try to get this posted from an internet café in the next few days.I, Dan, do not want to renew my three month visa in Turkey, so will have to be out by Oct 16, 2008.Later-----Dan
Hey, we are in a foreign country. They have laws - we follow them. If you do not like it get out. Simple as that in our way of thinking. But, I (Dan), can and do BITCH along the way.
We are in Turkey and like most countries they give you an entry visa for 90 days. That is 90 days not 3 months. Count them up and make sure your count is correct or fines could be levied, anything from a scolding to actual money having to be paid. Let’s not chance it and stay legal.
I came back to Turkey 3 weeks before Mary. Thus I have my 90 day time limit coming due first. We thought we would be fine. We made our exit from Marmaris and sailed down the coast knowing my visa was getting short but we were headed to Cyprus and would have checked out of Turkey the day before my visa was up. No problem.
Except, as often in our life, we tack our plans again and decide to leave the boat in Finike, Turkey and not exit as thought earlier. Finike is a good place to leave the boat. With the dip in our financial savings due to the market crisis we decide it is time for Mary to sort out retirement plans and also to pursue residency issues in NZ which require some work in the states especially since General Motors (no longer generous) will now totally stop Dan’s health benefits at age 65.
We set our departure from Turkey to fly to the states on the 20th of October. Therefore I must renew my visa even if it is only for one week. Bitching as I go this is what we do:
Catch a bus in Finike. The otogar (bus terminal) is a 1 km walk from the marina.
Take the mini-bus to Kos, pronounced Kosh. Fairly inexpensive at 8 YTL ($ 6.50) each way for a 2 hour bus trip. Beautiful scenery however.
We are met at the bus station in Kos and given a free ride to the boat harbor where we pay a guy at Altug’ Boat tours 15 Euro for Dan’s visa renewal ($25.00) and hand over our passports. He does the rest for us. I am always nervous when passports are given to strangers and they walk away. Cross fingers and hope that he has done this many times before.
We board a small family owned ( mom,dad,daughter) Turkish gulet and sail off to the small Greek owned island of Kastellorizon.
Why it belongs to Greece is strange since it is about 1 ½ miles from Turkey, 100 miles from the larger Greek island of Rodos, and over 350 miles from the Greek mainland. The islands were basically given to Greece after WWII. Regardless, we have a nice boat ride to a very charming picturesque Greek village for a nice lunch on a beautiful day.
At harbor side, we drank the Greek wine, Greek beer, and ate our Greek salads with extra Feta, dipped our bread in Greek olive oil. Within a few feet of us, we watched the charter boat people tangle lines, almost crash into other boats, get yelled at in foreign languages. It was a scene right out of the movie Captain Ron. Perfect!
Two hours later we sail back to Turkey. I pay the nice man from Al Tug’ 40 YTL ( $ 32.00) each for the boat trip as he returns our passports which is now legally giving me three more months in Turkey. I continue bitching about how it is just a racket to keep these day-tripper boats in business but--
WALLA--legal again. Nice new sticker in my passport and good to go.
We are striping the boat down of sail and gear to stow it out of the sun and get ready for another adventure----back to the US to get work / retirement issues settled for Mary and hopefully our ducks in a row for the run at New Zealand residency-----that will be another installment at a later date.
Cheers---Dan
Turkey-day 2008-----
Well, we tacked again. It seems like we are getting pretty good at tacking through life. We were all set to sail from Turkey and the stock market and unresolved retirement issues for Mary forced a tack to the USA for a spell.
Mary secured a job the first week back and is now working as a speech pathologist for the Leslie public schools in Leslie, Michigan.
Living now at a friends home in East Lansing Michigan. We went underground, literally. We have a very nice apartment set up in the basement of Jim Noble’s home. He has to be the worlds best landloard, but that is what you get when renting from a wonderful friend. We actually had offers to stay with friends at five locations but Jim’s offer put Mary the closest commute to her school job. Thank you all for your housing offers, it is truly appreciated.
Thanksgiving is a big holiday in the US. We went to spend time with Jeff Jahr, Mary’s brother, in Belleville, Michigan. Nephew Jim Jahr drove in from Washington DC for the long weekend.
Traditional for the thanksgiving day feast is roast turkey with stuffing, cranberry’s. mashed potatoes and more assorted foods than should be legal. Jim not being a real turkey fan and Jeff being a great cook, we tacked here also, substituting a wonderful prime rib with all the above mentioned additions making for a real feast.
The day after Thanksgiving is supposed to be the busiest shopping day of the year in the USA. The saying is “shop till you drop”. We also tacked here, seeing how Jeff bought a new chain saw we “chopped till we dropped”. Mary and I would both prefer to be in the fresh air and get a little exercise so cutting up wood for the fireplace was a much better choice. We bucked up the wood and loaded it in the lawn trailer and stacked it to be split at a later date.
The days flew by and completing house projects with Jeff & Jim is always fun. We had to leave a few hours early for the 150km drive back to East Lansing because the weather man was calling for a 15----25cm snowfall starting that evening. The drive north was not slippery, we only had rain. We did awake the next morning to a beautiful snowy landscape. We received 15cm of the frosty stuff. The winter is definitely started here and shoveling snow has already lost it’s novelty.
Later----Dan
Eating, we all have to do it.
One thing that always jumps out each time we return to the USA is how fat the American people really are especially the young people. Guess that is why we hear figures like 2/3rds of the population of the country are overweight or obese. Actually, I tacked again for that is not the point of this blog entry.
Since we have already all agreed that we need to eat, this blog is to point out the manner in which we prepare our food. We now have three kitchens / galleys that we work from.
Our latest kitchen is in our basement apartment that we rent from our friend, Jim, in East Lansing, Michigan. We have received compliments of how cute we have made it in a short time. We improvise very well and try to make the best of any situation that we are thrust into.
Our prettiest kitchen is the galley aboard Still Dreaming.
The kitchen in our home in New Zealand is coming along and will be made a bit more complete when we return next time. Your guess is as good as ours as to exactly when that will be.
Please go to the photos attached and you will get a bit more detail of the set-up at each location. We enjoy your comments about the postings in our blog, so feel free to give us a note on how we are doing.
Later----Dan
Holidays ------ December 2008 ..
Just a few thoughts on this Holiday season.
We wish you all the best no matter where you may be. We have enjoyed all our e-mail and e-cards from one and all this year.
On Dec 17th Jenny and Hattie came in for a visit of a week. That time went by all too quickly.
21 Dec we had a little Holiday get together at our new apartment in East Lansing. Nice evening with great friends.
Christmas eve was at Jeff Jahr’s in Belleville, MI
We wish you all the very best for the coming new year !
Cheers,
Dan
This blog entry is written mostly for the benefit of our Kiwi friends.
When speaking of a Michigan winter to Robin from Kaihu, I was pretty sure that I could see a slight rolling up of the eyes. I am sure the wheels in Robin’s head were saying “boy, is this bloke full of shit or what.” I will not go into how the weather was considerably worse when I was a kid-----honest--it was. Enough said.
I will be factual in this account. First, let me say Michigan is a state that has drastic variations in the weather. I used to jog a 5km course daily year round during my lunch hour at work. I would listen in my office to the wind chill conditions on the local radio station. If the wind chill was below -30C I would NOT jog. If it was not that cold, out the door I went. Yes I was called crazy but I was sure in good shape. I did not care what the real temperature was, just the WIND CHILL temp, for that was how it would feel on my body. I have seen the chill temps go from +12C on Monday and have it -20C on Wednesday.
Here in Michigan, we consider winter to start late November and run to the first of March. Average temperatures, in this part of the state, are 0 C to about -9 C. With these temperatures, you can see that the thermometer can drop below freezing and not come above for THREE months.
This has been a snowy year in this area. We have received about 20cm of snow in the last 3 days. Because of the huge variations in temperatures, it is common to get snow one day and the next it may rain and melt leaving slush and slop.
This season though we got snow in mid November and it has been with us pretty much every since. It is always a question of will we have a snowy Christmas. Last year it was +12 on Christmas.
X-country skiing is a great reason to get outside and get some exercise. We have gone several times already this season.
It is now 16 January, 2009. We are currently going through a cold snap here in mid-Michigan. Mary had school called off today because it was too cold for the kids to stand outside for the bus or walk to school. That does not happen unless the temperatures of wind chill are below -30C.
How do you tell if it is COLD in Michigan?
1---when you step out the door the snow under foot gives a crunchy, squeaky sound for each step.
2---your eyes begin to water and your ears yell “ hey dummy I need covering up, NOW”
3---you have been running short errands around town for the past 4 days and the snow from your feet on the INSIDE of the car has NOT MELTED !!!
As I said, we are having a snowy year. Michigan is well set up to deal with the snow removal very efficiently. Every town has snowplow trucks, as do the county and state. These trucks also apply salt to melt ice. Snow accumulations of 5cm is no big deal. 10 to15cm is common and can be dealt with easily. 30cm or more is less common but usually happen twice a year or so. When we lived in the country we had open farm fields on each side of our house. When the wind starts blowing the snow starts piling up or drifting. It was common to see the bare tar-sealed road in front of the house and 300mtrs in each direction the drifts would be 60---70cm deep. This equates to being snowed in. Usually within a few hours, a county snowplow would drive down the road so you are back to square one. Business as usual.
Well our wonderful Kiwi friends, this is why winter in Northland New Zealand is really a bit of a joke for us. If your country would just let us get residency, maybe we can get acclimatized and call 3 or 4 degrees below freezing “bone chilling”. We promise.
We love our home at Shwantlen Down Under and really are KIWI-WANNA-Bs !!
Dan
Dan the Driving-man or Dan the Driving-fool -------
What ever way you think of it, I have always been one that likes to be on the move. I grew up in Michigan and we are known as the car state.
General Motors (from which I am retired ), Ford and Chrysler are all wrapped up in this state. It is taken for granted, if you live in Michigan, you like to travel. Within the state and around the country, people from Michigan are known as Michiganders. They do like to “gander” about.
We have a state that is physically in two parts and separated by about 8kms of water. The Great Lakes of Lake Michigan & Lake Huron come together at the straights of Mackinac and separate the lower peninsula from the upper peninsula. Actually, the Michiganders think of the state in three parts. The Upper Peninsula, north of the straights of Mackinac, is referred to as the
U P. If you draw an imaginary line from east to west in the center of the lower peninsula going from Bay City through the city of Mount Pleasant to north of the city of Muskegon you cut the state in half. The northern half is referred to as UP-North.
The state also has a wonderful shape. The lower peninsula of Michigan is the shape of a mitten surrounded by the Great Lakes. If a Michigander is ever asked where they are from they reply will be “Michigan” and then immediately the hand goes up and they point to exactly what part of the state they live in. If you are from the UP you are on your own with the description. Very handy and the only state like it.
When I was a kid in the late 1950s, we had a cabin. It started out about the size of our batch at Schwantlen until my dad built on to it. It was up-north and we drove the 350kms, round trip, every weekend during the spring to fall (April----October). Great place to play in the woods with swimming and fishing lakes just down the road. Before we had the cabin, my parents and I tent camped on the weekends which of course was done up-north.
I got into scuba diving at the age of 16----17. Owosso, the town I grew up in, had a local dive club with a pontoon boat up-north at Mackinaw City. The club thought nothing of driving up to go diving on the weekend 800kms away. Michigan had good roads and freeways so you could drive up in about 4 hours each way.
The United States has always had very low fuel prices as compared to the rest of the world. Americans do not know this and I only learned this fact since traveling and driving outside of the US. Our current fuel prices are about 45 cents per liter, thus we can afford to do a good amount of driving.
Lets do a little recap of trips driven since mid October, 2008 and proposed trips that are in the fire, so to speak. Distances are round trip.
Jeff Jahr’s house, Mary’s brother, is only 275kms and we have gone down there 5-6 times since we returned from Turkey. Very convenient for us because he lives only about 40kms from the international airport that we fly in and out of.
2000kms took us to sailing friends in Wisconsin for New Years. We met Jan & Lauran Larson and kids, Elli, Gray, and Dana in the marina in Marmaris, Turkey. After many shared adventure stories and a few gin & tonics thrown in they are stuck with us. E-mail and Skype are wonderful to keep friendships going no matter where we are at the moment.
Last weekend, we went to visit other sailing friends in Bothwell, Ontario, Canada. We met Gary and Brenda Everingham on a sailing trip with other friends back in 1997 on Lake Erie. This will entail a border crossing into Canada but should be no delays. There is a bridge to Canada from Michigan going over the St. Clair River at Port Huron, MI. To the south you look down the St Clair River and to the north you look out onto the Great Lake, Lake Huron, a fresh water inland sea. The drive is a short 650kms.
In mid Feb. a road trips planned to the UP (upper peninsula)with Jane Pajot who visited us in NZ for 6 weeks. Jane and I go back to the mid 70’s with lots of shared adventures that have been enjoyed throughout the years. Jane’s daughter attends Northern Michigan University. Lots of snow with absolutely beautiful country along the shores of the largest fresh water lake in the world, Lake Superior so the x-country skis will be taken for the weekend. Chalk up another 2000kms. Due to the amount of snow in the UP we will be driving Jane’s 4X4.
Mid March has us going east to visit a wonderful friend that Mary and I met on our honeymoon in the Bay Islands of Honduras. Colleen Ambrose (DUFFY to us) lives in up state New York. This 4 day weekend should rack up about 2300kms
Mary is flying ( no driving miles---just FYI ) down to Fort Myers, Florida end of February for a surprise visit for our BIG-7 year-old granddaughter’s birthday. Sleepover for 10+ 7 year olds----good Mutti thing for sure. Cappi will run the shuttle pick up at the airport in Detroit---310kms.
Mary gets her spring break first part of April. That will put us on the road headed south to Florida to see Daughter Jenny and Grand-daughter Kiera.
This has been a spring ritual every year that we have been back here since 2003. This trip will be about 4800kms. We are getting soft in our latter years. We now stop for the night about mid point, Atlanta Georgia. This drive can be done in about 21 hours driving time.
Late April, early May has me , Dan, helping out a mate on a drive from Bruce Mines, Ontario, Canada to Anchorage Alaska. This drive is intended to deliver household belongings for sailing friends in their move up to Alaska. We will pick up a 8mtr. U-haul truck with a flatbed trailer on which we will put a car. The other vehicle will be a Chevy diesel heavy duty pickup truck pulling a camper. We have 3 drivers, Rob and Jude Johnson with all their belongings and I heading north. The plan is to have 2 hours driving in the U-haul, 2 in the truck and then sit it out for 2. Piece of cake---beats the 3 on 3 off for 19 days that Mary and I did crossing the Atlantic. Rob and Jude have done this trip a few times and say, barring breakdowns, it can be done in 6---10 days. Traveling during the day and sleeping in the trailer at night. Wal-mart parking lots here we come. This joy ride should rack up about 6500kms.
Well, there you have my little driving diversions for the next few months.
Later mates.
Dan
Mary & our friend, Jane Pajot, both work for the Michigan Educational System. Thus they get a long weekend in honor of President’s Day, 16 February.
Good reason to plan a mid winter getaway weekend. Jane’s daughter, Julia Fisher, is a student at Northern Michigan University in Marquette, Michigan, located in the U.P. (upper peninsula) on the shore of chilly Lake Superior. Winter in the Marquette area is always cold ( we had day temps with wind chill at about -12 -14C ) with lots of snow. We left East Lansing with icy rain and no snow. About 200kms north, the snow was back and upon our arrival in Marquette there was about 20---30cm on the ground. Our drive up and back had clear roads so we made tracks at about 120kph for the whole distance.
Rack up another 1500kms round trip of driving over the weekend for a nice road trip.
We spent 3 nights in the Econolodge. X-country skiing and short hikes were on tap. Of course college students always need to party and did not seem to mind the ol’ folks mingling in. Good food and hanging with friends made the three day stay go way too fast.
After full days of hiking, partying, skiing, and dining out, it was Monday morning and time for the 6 ½ hour drive back to our home in East Lansing to the south.
Nice weekend diversion.
Later---------Dan
Alaska Adventure - April, 2009-----start mileage 41,065 miles in a 2006
GMC 10 ton U-haul truck (manufactured in Flint, Michigan at the plant
next door to where I retired from) length 10.5mtr and a 5.8mtr
car-hauler trailer with the car aboard. The adventure finally begins. Let’s go back a few days.
24 April---------Rob and Jude gave me a call and want to leave a few days early if it would fit into my schedule. “No way, I have a BBQ planned, do you want to come?” This little cookout started out so we could see our friend, Raja’s photos of his recent Cabo holiday. As good things happen we barbied with Raja, Rob & Jude Johnson, Jane Pajot, Jeff, Byron, Andrea Fisher, and of course Jim Noble our great landlord. Good steaks, chicken and dishes brought by guests made for a great eclectic evening.
Saturday 25 April----up early and depart East Lansing, Michigan to head north. About 160kms north of East Lansing, we jog off the expressway and pick up the U-Haul truck and the car-hauler trailer.
Equipment stats.--- Mine already described. Rob & Jude drive a 2003 Chevrolet ¾ ton pick up truck 4X4 crew-cab equipped with a Duramax diesel with Allison transmission---pulling a 1994 Coachman travel trailer 27’ / 8.3mtr.
Trial by fire or behind the wheel, I start driving the U-H truck. Rob is riding with me and can give suggestions since he has traveled thousands of miles pulling trailers. When crossing the Mackinac Bridge I see Rob has a death grip on the dash of the truck. I learn later that this is the first time he has crossed the Big Mac, as they call it, as a passenger. He does not like the height of the bridge. I feel better as I was thinking his panic was due to my driving. We are stopped at the Canadian border and all went smoothly once they realized that we were moving household goods from Bruce Mines, Ontario, Canada to Wasilla, Alaska. The primary holdup was having Rob fill out paperwork to transport a shotgun across Canada.
Arrived Bruce Mines at 1610 hrs. Travel distance for the day was 333 miles or 510 kms. The long day ended at R & J’s friend,Yarma’s, home just outside Bruce Mines,Ontario. Sweating in a 110C sauna and then having a great steak dinner was a pleasant, fitting end to the first day.
Sunday 26 April----Loading day for the household stuff, all stored at a home on the second story. Up the two flights of stairs and across the front of the building at the end of the peak, all piled head high. Fortunately. most of the things are packed in boxes so a carting we shall go. After only two hours of trudging up and down the stairs my knees are telling me this may not be a fun day. We head across the street to a nice local eatery and have a very nice breakfast. Once back Rob has lined up a couple of local kids to do the hoofing and toting. Wonderful especially going up and down the damn stairs!
Gee the fun lasts for eight hours and the van gobbled up ALL the stuff. Those boys sure were saviors. Rob as the master packer has it all loaded. We then move the truck to the street and hook up the car-hauler trailer and load the 99 Oldsmobile Alero. Ready to rock and roll.
27 April--Monday---Driving day #1-------Nervous excitement for the trip had me awake at 0500. Get out of bed at 0607 and take advantage of the available wi-fi to send ½ Pint my underway message. Head west out of Bruce Mines, Ontario at 0640 on Hwy. 17. About 100kms south of Wawa we are now into snow along the roadway. Half of the many lakes that we pass are still ice covered. We determine that deep lakes keep the ice longer that the shallow ones. Ontario driving is very scenic: rolling hills with rock roadsides and great views of Lake Superior as we transit just to the north of the lake heading west. The drive this day had light rain on and off with gray skies. I said it was gray because it was so close to Michigan, where it is gray a lot of the time. Our first night stop is at Ignace, Ontario at the Tempo truck-stop. Huge MUD parking lot. We tuck into the far corner to be away from the diesel 18-wheelers that idle their engines all night.
Game plan for the drive-----try to be underway at least 12 hours a day and camp along the way at free camp stops. This will equate to about 600 miles / 1000kms per day. I have chosen to drive only the U-haul. I get the HIGH CHAIR. The truck has a sight line above the pick-up and looks over most vehicles on the road. The rig has huge mirrors and the car-hauler can be seen down each side by about 4 inches wider than the U.
I drive and get a break of about 2 hours midday, inwhich I then sit in the passenger seat of the pick-up with Jude driving. Usually get an hour or so nap at this time It sounds like I drive 10 hours a day, but not really. We are up early, usually before daylight. We drive for about 2 hours then stop so Jude can make breakfast sandwiches which are eaten underway. Same goes for the lunch break. We have to stop about every
2---3 hours for fuel. This gives a chance for a potty break and stretch of the legs. One of the down sides to the U-haul is NO cruise control. I take turns driving with my right foot and then squirm around in the seat and drive a while with my left foot on the gas pedal..
28 April---Tuesday---Drive day #2 Up First one up gets the coffee started & we put our drinks in a thermos to be consumed behind the wheel. We leave the Tempo station lot and head 1km down the road and try to fill up at the Canadian Petro station which we thought would have lower fuel prices. Closed station, so we backtrack to the Tempo to top up. On the road at heading west on Hwy 17. We cross into Manitoba and the road turns to Hwy 1. Head toward Winnipeg and west of town we take Hwy 16 west.
This is Canadian prairie country. Roads are straight and gently rolling so we made good time. Most of the time I drive about 60MPH / 100kms. Actually the U takes the bumps more in stride than the pick-up. The travel trailer makes the p-u bounce a bit, not to mention the belongings inside the trailer becoming airborne.
Cross into Saskatchewan just west of Russell. Head northwest toward Saskatoon. Most of my driving is solo but we have walkie-talkie communications as long as we stay no more than about 3--4kms apart. Sure glad that I have my mp3 player along to break the monotony of the drive. Driving is mostly two lane roads with very little traffic. It is too early in the tourist season for a lot of the businesses to be open. We stop at the Wal-mart store parking lot in Yorkton , Sask. and Rob gets permission for us to spend the night. Temperature is -1C and it is snowing just a bit. This is Spring??!
29 April--Wednesday--drive day #3 Up at 0430. We keep crossing time zones as we head west but our bodies are still on Michigan time. Temp is still -1C with 76% humidity and a wind of 10--15MPH so it feels colder. Driving west on Hwy 16. we see many snow geese along the roadside. Lots of snow still on the ground. The U-haul is considered commercial traffic so I have to pull in and roll over the scales whenever the weigh station is open. When we stop for the lunch break we discover the bumps have taken the door off of the microwave oven and broke a couple of glass wine glasses in the travel trailer.
Proceed through Saskatoon and cross into Alberta just west of Lloydminster heading north west toward Edmonton Alberta. We stop about 160kms further west at Whitecourt. We get permission to stay at the Canadian Tire store parking lot. This was our best mileage day at 643 miles / 1072kms. A short walk to the pay phone in the Kroger store gave me my daily highlight, I could chat with ½ Pint for a few minutes. Great trip but it would be so much better if we were together!!!
30 April--Thursday--drive day #4 We ran out of propane during the night so you could see your breath the next morning inside the camper. Underway at 0615. Canadian Tire had a RV dump station, so Rob started the day with a pretty shitty job. North of Edmonton it looked like pulp country with many poplar and pine trees cut along the roadside. We crossed into British Columbia at Dawson Creek. Lunch stop revealed that the microwave in the camper bit the dust. Big bumps called frost heaves that are sort of like a speed bump in the middle of nowhere caused the problem. I pitched the microwave into the dumpter. Saw our first caribou cross the road today. Stopped for night just south of Fort Nelson BC at a pull out reststop along the way. We decided that we would enjoy a chicken dinner on the barbie and had placed the barbie in the U-haul just inside the door for this purpose. Out it came and Rob did the honors for a great chicken dinner. The only time I ever observed a cook doing his thing armed with bear-spray at the ready just in case of visitors.
1 May--Friday---drive day #5 We are now into the Pacific Time Zone, three hours ahead of MI, with body time still in MI. We are up and on the road at 0515. Even though it is already daylight, no headlightss are required. On the road we have been using the walkie-talkie’s to talk back and forth. I observe the sun awning on the camper flapping in the breeze A quick call and a short stop puts the run away pin back in place to secure the rig for travel. We make an afternoon stop at a nice hot spring to soak for a while. Animal sightings are up now that we are in BC. Today we see little white spots on the far away hills, sheep. Moose and buffalo are spotted right at the roadside many times.
Mountains, once into BC and pretty much the rest of the trip we have beautiful mountain vistas. We are running parallel to the Rocky Mountains and they are ever present just to our left. At 1600 hours we cross into the Yukon Territory. At Watson Lake Y.T. we stop at “sign post city.” This is sort of the land version of painting your logo on the wall at Horta in the Azores but not near as much effort nor artistic talent involved. My mates did not tell me of this stop so I had to add our sign but winged it with what we could scrounge up from our gear. I looked for a sign and found one from Dunedin, New Zealand and added ours on an adjoining post. Took several px of postings that reminded me or friends from around the world as I tromped through the snow looking at the huge collection that has been estimated at 40,000. This has been a very nice warm day. Traveling with the window down and shorts on even though there was loads of snow still on the ground along the way. This was a great play day and we still managed to get in another 394 miles / 600kms toward our destination. Called it a day at 1900 hours.
2 May--Saturday--drive day #6-- Up and ready for the drive at 0600. Hey, this is supposed to be spring, why is there FROST on the windshield? It is a wonderful sunshiny day even though it started out at -3C. Glad that we are heading west because this sun would not be fun to drive into. Tourist stop at White Horse, which is the capitol of the Yukon Territory. A city of 25,000 which is 66% of the total population of the Yukon. Had to check out one of the worlds largest wind vanes---- a passenger plane mounted on a pole that rotated into the wind just like a wind sock. We dropped off the U-haul, car-hauler & travel trailer at the visitors center. It was not open for the season so we could leave the rigs there so we could make a side trip to Skagway. Jude had business at a yarn shop as Rob & I walked the business section.
The town thrives on cruiseship people and they were not scheduled to arrive until Monday so about 70% of the businesses were closed or just stocking up for the arrival. When we came over the pass at 3752’ / 1154mtrs we had snow at the summit and 51F / 9C descending to sea level it was 75F / 21C in town. Today we only made 262 miles / 425kms.
3May--Sunday---drive day #7-- As the old saying goes, we were smelling the barn and knew that it would be a push to get there by nightfall. This was a standing joke about getting done by dark, it never got dark till 2300 or so. On the road at 0620. I saw my first black bear as it came out of the bush for a quick glimpse as I went by. Crossing into Alaska was a bit of drama thanks to my passport with many stamps. Rob and Jude went first and explained to the guard the u-haul had all their household belongings inside. They both had two year old passports but slick and clean with no stamps because Canada does not stamp them. As the guard was questioning me and leafing through my passport he saw the stamp that was unquestionably from a middle east country. The stamp was from the United Arab Emerates when we did a stop over in Dubai on our way to New Zealand. He told me to please wait till he consulted with superiors. After more than ten minutes he returned and handed my passport back and said have a nice day. Rob later asked “what did ya say that pissed off the guard for so long?” Nothing just some strange writing that he had to clear with his boss.
The push was on and 14 ½ hours at the wheel for the final day got us to Rob and Jude’s new home in Wasila, Alaska
Trip distance was 3886 miles / 6477kms
Average daily drive distance 555 miles / 925kms
Cost for regular fuel for the U-haul --- $ 1,716.04
1891 ltrs average cost .91 per ltr
500 gallons average cost $ 3.43 gal.
Monday 4 May was unloading of the truck day. After all those miles the only broken item was one wine glass. Great packing mates.
Time to relax and play tourist a little before I fly back to Michigan.
Thanks Rob & Jude for the high-chair adventure. Yes, I am glad that I could help you out. Also very glad that I am FLYING back to Michigan.
Later------ Dan
After unloading the U-haul it was time for a bit of Alaskan sightseeing. Rob and Jude asked what I would like to see and do? I had always wanted to go clamming. Never had I been anywhere where the people did clamming. A quick check on the internet revealed that an extreme low tide was in a couple of days. Yea, lets pack up the trailer and have a some R & R.
Remember this is America----damn are you kidding me, I have to buy an out of state fishing license for $35 for a three day license to dig clams? The state of Alaska considers a clam is shellfish, get it “fish.”
The next day we drove three and a half hours to the town of Ninilchik southwest of Anchorage. Previously, Rob & Jude came here and with the help of their friend, Henry, a local Indian man, who had taken them under his wings, showed them a thing or two about digging clams. Years ago, Henry had been a paid clamber. Now using the barter business, the personal daily limit, 60, would take Henry only an hour or so and could be traded for a 12 pack of beer. Worked for Henry.
We used clam-guns. A clam gun consists of a steel tube which is pushed into the ground at a spot where a clam was thought to be lurking about 30---50cm below the sand. With GREAT effort the gun is pulled up and a plug of sand is brought out with it leaving a hole. About 15% of the time a clam would be drawn up and would be laying exposed and easily picked up. That left 85% of the time Jude ( working on hands and knees) had to quickly thrust her hand down into the hole to try and get a grasp of the clams neck and work it out. This meant she was jamming her arm all the way up to her elbow into very cold water in order to get the clam. Rob and I had hard work but Jude had the very cold task resulting in an almost numb arm but on the FUN ? went. We would usually dig for about 2 to 2 ½ hours before Rob and I were pooped and Jude was frozen. The three of us working together would usually bag about 30 to 35 clams in that amount of time. As usual with new activities, there is a steep learning curve. For two days, we dug out close to the receding tide. The water in the holes made it VERY difficult to pull out the gun which was pulling out the sand being sucked up into its tube.
On the third day, we began to observe Henry, the master clamber, was digging up within about 30mtrs below the HIGH water tide area. Here the sand was firm so the clam gun did not have to be thrust so deeply and therefore easier to extract. Not only was our daily bag of 30 to 40 clams dug for with a lot less effort but in only hour or so.
Digging the clams is only half the work. We rinsed off as much sand as possible in salt water. Back to the trailer into a huge pot of boiling water Rob would plunge 15 of 20 clams and after a minute or so they would be dead indicated by the shell starting to open. We pealed them out of the shell and rinsed again. Then the clams were cut up with a pair of scissors and unwanted parts discarded. It took about 1 ½ to 2 hours for the three of us to clean the clams and vacuum seal them in plastic bags ready to be frozen for future use.
After three days of clamming at the beach, it was the time to get back. We made an overnight stop where Rob and Jude fish for salmon when they (the salmon) are running in July and August. The empty parking lot ,due to this this early time of year, allowed us to easily set up the trailer overlooking the beautiful Russian river. A picture postcard setting for us to clean our clams sitting in the sunshine with a cool drink close at hand.
Next morning, I was a slow-poke to rise so Jude & Rob were out of the trailer a few minutes ahead of me. I had just placed my coffee water on the stove when I heard Rob shout “ Dan“. I went to the door and upon opening I heard Rob yell “Dan stay in the trailer.” This could only mean one thing, bear! close by. I looked out the trailer window. Sure enough there he was. Grizzly bear called brown bears by the Alaskans are the ones you REALLY respect. Grizzlies are responsible for almost all bear attacks in the area we were in. This one was a youngster and ONLY about 300# /140kgs. I took several pictures from the safety of the trailer. Rob and Jude were 75mtrs away and thinking seriously of ducking into the brick outhouse if the fellow ambled their way. Rob and Jude were rescued by a guy in a pickup truck and brought back to their truck. This bear was definitely NOT afraid of people or trucks approaching with horns blaring. We packed up the truck and trailer with a wary eye out for him and the bear spray at the ready. What a great way to end a few days of clamming & camping in the Kenai peninsula of Alaska.
Once back at Wasilla and home base, the Iditarod dogsled race headquarters was a must see stop. Rob and Jude have been doing volunteer work for the Iditarod for the past 4 years. The grueling race is held yearly during the first week of March. I watched a DVD of the 2008 race that Rob and Jude had at home. It was an interesting insight into the world of the mushers and their love of the their dogs. One thing that really struck me is that these dog teams for the most part are made up of mutts & small mutts to boot. Dogs bred with nothing in mind but loving to run and an endurance of unbelievable proportions. For those that might say this is cruel to the dogs I say BS, a mashers #1 rule is not to harm a single dog.
The DVD that I watched of the race was made by National Geographic. It clearly showed that these dogs love to run. The care of the dogs by their mushers and hundreds of volunteer veterinarians that check them along the race route was well documented. The experts say a good dog team in the Iditarod race starts with 16 dogs per sled, can run 100 to 150 miles in a day and sleep for 4 to 5 hours and get up and do this again for 8 to 15 days. The race is 1049 miles 1688kms (1049 is in honor of Alaska being the 49th state). The fastest time has been 8 days 22 hours & 46 minutes. This standing record was set in 2002. To me the Iditarod would definitely be on my list of volunteer activities if I ever lived in the Alaska. Volunteering is a huge commitment of time for the whole race can take over 2 weeks time. Good on ya Rob and Jude---- a worthwhile activity for sure.
Time drew to a close. As Rob and Jude dropped me off at the Anchorage airport ( my flight was at 2330 hrs, NO it was not dark yet!!!) it put an end to my Alaskan high-chair adventure.
Thanks mates-----enjoy your new Alaskan home.
Later------ Dan
Leaving the USA ended with a PARTY!! We had a barbecue with some friends and family which which included J and Kiera from Florida, Toby from Seattle, and brother Jeff from Belleville. The celebration was multifold, Mary officially retired from the Michigan Education System, we had a good family and friend get together, and we celbrated our return to Turkey.
After a week of ending work, packing, being with family, having a party, we boarded the plane on June 17th at 6:00 (1800) and flew to Istanbul via Frankfort. All is well after a glorious sleep stretched out on the bed with the window open letting in the salt water air from the Bosphorus Sea (the body of water joining the Aegean and the Black Sea.
Last night's dinner was on the upstairs terrace of the Doy-Doy restaurant looking out at the illuminated Blue Mosque and the lights from shore surrounding the Bosphorus. Today we set off to walk a little and to finally say that have seen the Grand Bazaar.
To return from Turkey to New Zealand without visiting the memorial to the famous battle between the Anzacs ( Australian New Zealand Army Core) and the Turks at Gallipoli, Turkey would be inexcusable. Dan and I took a tour. It was fantastic. For all not knowing of this battle please look it up and get the back ground. What we came away with besides being educated about what happened was WOW - All Aussies and Kiwis are totally respected in this country. Pictures below depict the beautiful landscape now that in 1915 was devastated by the 1000s of young men fighting. 500,000 young lives were lost do to combat, death from wounds, and disease. I will end this blog with the story regarding the picture of the statue of the Turk carrying an Anzac soldier.
The soldiers were fighting in trenches at times only 8 meters apart. A momentary truce was called. No one moved or made a sound for fear it may start the battle once more. A pained cry came from a severely wounded soldier in the middle. The fear of being killed prevented men from coming to his aid. Suddenly, a white piece of underwear flown from a stick on the Turk side was raised. A Turk soldier, with no gun, walked out and gently picked up the man, carried him to the Anzac line, gently set him down, and returned to the Turkish line. Many of these tales exist describing the heroics on both sides.
Interestingly, most of the memorials and gravesitesare all in English dedicated to the Anzacs.
Another guided tour of the ancient city of Troy. What we enjoy about visiting these sites is to get the truth as it is known today. Our guide was very good with discussing the myth and story as written by Homer and probably what, in fact, happened and the reality of why it happened. Interestingly, there were at least 7 cities on this site. The modern day controversy of many years was what was the actual ruin site of the time the Trojan war with Paris and Helen. A little romance sold alot of books! The site is on the Aegean coast south west of Istanbul.
After Troy, we settled down to just relax! Kushadasi is a busy, touristy, crazy city on the Aegean. It handles tourists who want to party, get off the cruiseships to shop, lay on the beach, and those wanting to tramp through the ruins, specifically Epheseus. We cooled it sipping wine and beer at our backpacker hotel taking in the view from the fourth floor. Our only neighbors were the baby starlings and a mourning dove sitting on her eggs.
We then bused it from Kushadasi to Antalya, 320 kilometers with a quick switch to a smaller bus taking us another 100 km to Finike. Total time about 9 and half hours. Bus travel in Turkey can be described thusly:
1. stations are usually clean and efficient with convenient stores and restaurants 2. buses are on time almost to the minute 3. you have assigned seats 4. clean, comfortable, 5. stops are at places that are designed for the buses with clean WCs, stores, cafeterias and 6. you get much better service on these buses than you do on intercontential airplanes in the US with plenty of water, juice, tea,coffee, or soda with a cookie or two
We speak no Turkish but somehow manage to find our way back home!
We are enjoying the smaller town of Finike going east down the coast from Marmaris. As the pictures indicate, Finike is surrounded by mountains in a small bay. We swim nearby, taking stairs over large rocks to a concrete dock poured over the rocks with a ladder handy for getting in and out of the water. Sadly enough, the swimmers are primarily the people from the yacht harbor, Turkish men, and Turkish boys. Since here we have seen only one young Turkish teenage girl swimming with her father and brother.
Stilldreaming is in a relatively small city marina close to the town. The town is all Turkish (abit of an oxymoron there) as in not touristy like Marmaris. The vegetable, meat and bread markets are within a short walking distance from the boat. We get a lovely afternoon breeze coming off the bay from the Mediterranean. The nights cool down nicely with few mosquitoes. Slowly, day by day the boat is coming to life. We will stay here for awhile catching up on boat projects. Dan is getting the bikes together so travel will not be by foot alone.
To brother, Jeff, in Michigan and our Michigan friends, notice the use of the Belleville shopping bag being purposefully used at the veggie market. To our friends, Duncan and Irene, the Malaysian "karma garland" that you sent is now on Stilldreaming at the bow hopefully bringing us all the "good luck" we will need for future voyages to distant places.
We decided a walk would do us good. Get some sea air and exercise. The road goes along the coast reminding brother, Jon, in California of the southern California coast line. It is similar except for the beautiful bays that are great for a boat at anchor.
The colors of the Mediterrranean are beautiful. The postcards are not retouched. What we miss is the fishlife. We see fish but quite small and in few numbers. There is no coral to feed off of and therefore fewer fish mean very few seabirds.
OFF THE GRID-----------that is the term usually associated with living without hooking up to the electric company, hydro. In the case of living on a boat outside of the marina, it means both electricity and water.
For our non-boating readers, whomever you may be, here is the description.
Starting with the water system first. Still Dreaming has 3 sinks, forward head (bathroom), galley, aft head. They all sit above the waterline of the boat unless when the boat is heeling over under sail. Each sink has 2 seacocks (shutoff valves) one directly under the sink and another under the floor where the hose from the sink dumps into the sea. When at anchor, water goes down as in a regular home on terra firma. Both heads have a shower. Beneath the shower floor grate is a basin which catches the water with a pump attached that pumps the water overboard.
The pumps are all 12V electric being energized via the batteries. I will give you a rundown starting forward and working aft.
The forward head has one seawater washdown pump that supplies sea water to a hose in the forward chain locker. This hose washes the muddy anchor chain as it comes aboard. Another pump is for the shower drain. The last pump in the forward head is a 12V electric mascerator pump that pumps waste from the toilet into the sea. When in a marina we always use the shore facilities.
The main saloon (our eating/living area) has a fresh water pump that supplies all fixtures in heads, galley and cockpit shower. Also one mascerator pump for pumping out galley sink when boat is sailing and sink is healed lower than the water outside.
The aft head has another shower drain pump and a manual flush pump for the toilet.
The cockpit has a hand shower that is very handy for a fresh water shower with soap or just a quick rinse after a swim to get the salt off. The water goes down drains on the floor of the cockpit without the aid of a pump.
As always, water is precious and is used aboard very sparingly. I CAN take a shower and wash my long hair with only the use of less than 4 liters of water. You really appreciate the amount of water you use when you sometimes have to transport water to the boat via the dingy in 20 ltr jugs. We have 4 water tanks which hold a total of 640 liters.
ELECTRICITY----Still Dreaming is set up very well to produce the 12V DC needed to charge our batteries & make life aboard very comfortable. We have refrigeration and this luxury is responsible for about 85% of our total energy requirements. Lights, computers and navigation systems are little compared to the energy hungry 12V refrigerator. I NEED a cold drink (spelled beer & coke for the rum). We do not have the luxury of an ice cube. Food that stays a bit fresher longer is a nice feature also.
Electrical charging systems----we have three.
The # 1 system, as far as use and daily input, is the solar panel, nick-named Merlin. We have 4 - 75watt panels that are mounted on the radar arch over the cockpit. With good sun these panels will put in up to 14 amps per hour.
# 2 is a wind generator, named Jeffie, on a pole attached to the radar arch, aft on the starboard side. Works day and night if the wind is above 10kts.
# 3 is Still Dreaming's Perkins 62HP diesel with an oversize alternator that has an output of up to 200 amps. Standard car alternators are about 35--50 amp. Merlin and Jeffie work so well that I had a non functioning alternator for TWO years and I did not even fix it because there was really no need.
Thus you can see how we, with strict self monitoring of water and electricity usage, can live “off the grid” quite well.
Later mates---Dan
We are cooling it in a marina in Finike, Turkey. Finike is not a European tourist destination at all for people staying on land. The city marina has about 200 boats, 50 at any one time have people aboard. Most boats are owned by Germans & Brits with a spattering of other countries.
Once in awhile a USA flag can be seen. Yes, the whole world knows that the state of Delaware is a tax FREE registration state. We have seen several boats with definitely non English speaking people aboard, flying the stars and stripes. A couple of days ago, we had a delightful family beside us that lived aboard their catamaran motor boat full time. They were from Israel, Tel Aviv, but on the back of the boat was Wilmington, Delaware. We have come to expect that if we see a boat sail in with a US flag it will probably be owned by a Turk or someone OTHER than an America.
We do not eat at restaurants very often and when we do it is usually at a sidewalk cafe type establishment. Always away from the water the prices are drastically reduced when the view is gone. Here are couple of things that bring a grin to my face concerning Turkish service at one of these little cafe places. It is always helpful when they bring out a menu that has pictures. Some places will not and the waiters will tell you what they have. For some reason it is always a man that will wait on you. If he does not know English he will get someone that does. It may be a person walking down the street but he will get someone.
We were ordering our delicious kebab chicken and rice meal and Mary asked for Coke. He said Pepsi ok. Mary shook her head and again said Coke if they had it. He took our order and gave it to the cook. Off he trots around the corner. Two minutes later back he came. He went around the corner to a small store bought a single Coke and put it on the table in front of Mary, along with a big smile and a head nod.
A similar time we were hot and very thirsty so when we ordered our pizza ( always the size of a dinner plate-- never large multi-person size like we are used to in the US ) we asked for a large VERY COLD water. Again the orders were given and off the waiter goes out the front door and across the street. Sure enough, back he comes with our COLD water from the store across the way. The restaurant had water but it had just been put into the cooler and was not cold. Thus we got what we ordered with the help of another establishment and a very helpful waiter. This was after the first waiter went and found another waiter who spoke better English.
Yesterday we had a day outing and as usual for us it entailed a local bus called a dolmus, pronounced dolmush. We had been told that there were restaurants in a town about 35kms away that served wonderful fish dinners. I went to the marina office and asked about this fish place. We were told to go to Arkanda but were told that we should take a TAXI.
Let me ponder this for a second. Taxi for 30 Euro--$50USD each way or dolmus for 15 lyre--$9USD----dolmus wins. I wrote on a piece of paper ARKANDA so I could just show it to the bus station person and he pointed to the right dolmus. Of course we were the only non Turkish people and not a word of English could be heard. Nothing new and makes for a bit of adventure.
About 45 minutes later we passed a sign to Arkanda and 150 mtrs further at the bend of the road we were motioned to get off the dolmus at a market area where a beautiful clear water fall was coming from a mountain stream. We filled our water bottles from the free flowing plastic pipes and asked about this Arkanda place. I approached a young fellow and asked. I think, because he only knew Turkish, offered to take me on his motorcycle the 1km up the hill to Arkanda. Another man heard me and came to interpret what the young fellow was saying. I was able to find out that the famous ruins of Arkanda were a km up the dirt mountain road not far from were we were.
By this time it was early afternoon and Mary was about to bonk from lack of food. Hey no worries, there was a little restaurant near by. Again, very little English was spoken. In fact it was sort of cafeteria style so pointing was good enough. I broke MY rule and did not ask the price, “cos (pronounced cosh) pura” -- “how much”? before eating. We had a nice rice and stew meal which filled us up very well. Change as in getting small dollars or lyre in Turkey is always a problem. The teller machine had given me two 100 lyre bills, the dollar here is called TYL for Turkish lyre. I needed this broken so I took out everything but the 100 bill and went to the register to pay. I presented the bloke with the 100 lyre bill and of course he motions do I have anything smaller. I showed him the empty wallet and he makes a face and digs into his wallet to come up with change. Bottom line, we were charged 20 lyre for the whole meal that I thought should have been about 10. I was able to get the bill changed but it cost me double to do it. Once again, part of the adventure. Now that we were both stuffed we did not have to find the fish place.
We tried hiking up the dirt road to the Arkanda ruins which we heard were in quite good condition but I had a problem with my shoe rubbing on my heal so we nixed seeing yet more of the many “old stones” in Turkey on this outing. We could look up see the ancient necropolises carved into the mountain side.
We thought it would be better to try to catch the dolmus in the little cluster of shops down the road. Off we hiked and sure enough about 100mtrs down the road we hear the horn of a dolmus signaling if we needed a ride. Pretty cool, we did not even have to flag him down. Such is the way it goes for a fun day trip.
Well we are off tomorrow via bus, ferry and train to see our German friends, that live in Berlin, in Greece for a nice three week break. We will sail with them and of course catch up on our lives since last seeing them when we went tent camping in Florida.
More on that later.
Dan
The Greece adventure - three weeks away from the boat- pack the back packs, trot off to the bus station in Finike, hop on and away we go.
First stop Kas, Turkey (pronounced Kosh). We stayed overnight at a pansion not far from the bus station and not far from the harbor. Kas is a very nice town by the sea with a small beautiful port. I usually order our rooms online. For those reading this and traveling like we do I have had good luck with a website called hostelbookers.com.
The next day we took a small ferry for the 30 minute ride to the Greek Island of Kastellorizo, get checked into Greece and wait all day for the large Bluestar ferry that we will take to Pireaus, the huge port city closest to Athens. Okay Kastellorizo - if you are looking for the ultimate in what a picturesque, right out of the travel magazine, small island, Greeker than Greek harbor town this is the place. So far all is going as planned except that the large ferry boat is two hours late. Hm, may be an issue later on!
In Kastellorizo we wait for the ferry that is increasingly behind schedule. This is or was the plan. Take the overnight ferry which stops at a myriad of Greek Islands before landing in Piraeus. At the ferry dock catch a quick ferry owned bus that takes you to the main gate to leave the terminal area. Across the street to the left is the new train station and to the right is the metro which takes you into Athens. Take the train to the town of Corinth to see a waiting Christiana and Manfred who have driven about 1 hour and 30 minutes from their boat to meet us.
We successfully get on the train headed for Corinth. The train is leaving momentarily so we do not have time to contact Manfred to communicate that we are now about 4 hours behind schedule. On the train, we talk to a nice English gentleman who is on his way to the airport to fly back to London after visiting friends in Macedonia. Chat, chat, chat and suddenly the man asks if the airport is THIS far out of Athens. We are seeing mountains to the right and the Bay of Corinth to the left. We don't know. He turns to someone else to discover he is going the wrong way. OOPS! Never will we know if he made his flight.
We arrive in Corinth and NO Manfred. Dan left our Turkish mobile or cell on the boat thinking he couldn't use it. Later we find out that we could have used the text. As I watch the gear, Dan asks around and then walks to the town about a 2 kms away to buy a phone card, then walks to find a phone to discover that Manfred and Christiana were there but left not knowing if we were actually going to arrive that day. Suggestion, take the taxi now to the bus station to see if we can get a bus out that afternoon to the town of Kalidi. We taxi to the bus station. No more buses that late in the day. We buy two tickets for the next morning, walk across the highway to a hotel, and call it a very! long eventful day.
Next AM get on the bus, ride to Kalidi to see Manfred waiting at the stop. Christina is at the nearby taverna and finally the reunion with friends, frappes (whipped coffee with ice), Amstels, and the local red wine for me. The grapes, I think, were personally stomped the day before. It is served in a small 1/2 liter pitcher with a small glass (not a wine glass). The truth is I never had a wine in Greece I did not like. The barrel wine that I had come to love I would compare to a nice wine cooler.
Manfred’s and Christiana’s sailboat, Catalina, is 8.5 M (27’), steel, tiller steered with a 10 horse power single cylinder diesel with a folding prop. It was often hand cranked to start the engine.
What is closeness among friends!!!!?
I am writing this from the cockpit, absolutely comfy, shaded with the green cover that we bought at a nursery, a type of cover that the farmers use to shield their fields. It is holey which lets in the air but dark so shields the sun. It is but a fraction of the cost of the sun protection tops that one buys from the canvas makers, we of course if in the Great Lakes would still go to our friend, Randy, who owns Pleasure Crafters in Bay City.
Our captain is down with a nasty cold. He is sleeping in the forward guest cabin that with the wind scoop attached on the deck to the hatch provides better air circulation than our cabin now that we are at anchor. I am surrounded by beautiful mountains watching the small fishing boats and day gulets (tourist boats) slowly motor past going deeper into the bay. It is now late August so the summer season is winding down. Instead of twenty gulets a few weeks ago there are now two or three. The one passing a few minutes ago was playing US country music. They stay to let the passengers swim for a while and then off to another bay. Here, every Turkish boat drags a hand fishing line that someone constantly tugs on back and forth as if to snag a fish. As we were motoring in yesterday, VERY slowly, me at helm and Dan at the bow, Dan saw a small fishing boat with a man in the back whom he thought was signaling to us to slow down. He was in fact, simply fishing with this line that is constantly tugged in a back and forth motion. We see this being done on a lot of boats with no fish being caught.
Our previous anchorage consisted of a beach with a long line of “otels“, “pansions“, hotels, restaurants,etc. This was not the boisterous, high rise of the tourist town but a very sleepy, dirt road, quiet affair that reminded me of Belize. We ate dinner at a place called the Chill Out, just off the beach, not far from the Barking Mosquito, with the servers trying to acquire a Rasta look ala the east or west Caribbean. The music was a great US 40/50 ties mix with the likes of Billy Holiday and such. The food was not Turkish but a blend of Caribbean style chicken, delicious. We did not order the offered Cubra Libras or Mojitos as I had just had my fill of Raki (Ouzo). Earlier in the afternoon we walked down the dusty path along the beach and off on a dirt road next to a river inlet off the bay. Suddenly we see these colorful, covered little cabana restaurants built over the river where you can sit on the Turkish carpets and pillows, eat and drink and take in the mountains to the north and the bay off the Mediterranean to the south. Such is life at the present on the boat in Turkey.
Preparation to Sail---------11 September 2009
As most of you know we were back in Michigan from Oct. 08 until June 2009. Mary was getting the last ducks in a row for her attempt to get a JOB in New Zealand and hopefully our permanent residency. Mary is happy to be completely retired from the Michigan School System as of 1 July 2009.
Still Dreaming had been sitting in Finike, Turkey for 10 months in the water. After arriving back at the boat we found it dirty, but all was fine. OK, time to get out of this marina. I knew that the prop definitely needed to be cleaned. I had previously made up a hookah rig which attached to a scuba tank on board with a 10 meter hose with a mouthpiece at the end. Scraper and wire brush in hand over I go for the clean up job.
As most of you can imagine the water in a marina is not exactly the best. Checking my watch it took exactly 18 minutes to scrape off the 10mm of growth. Half of the time I had my eyes shut but even when they were open the visibility was pretty poor, accomplishing the task more by feel than sight. I looked at the job and called it "good enough." 10 seconds before I am to surface, sure as hell, I drop the scraper and wire brush. The tools were tied together, too bad they were not tied to me. After surfacing I get Mary to lower the dinghy anchor so I can retrieve our best scraper. No go, anchor is too light and I cannot get down. Plan three, lower a very heavy weight belt and pull myself to the bottom. This is working well until I actually do a face plant in the ooze of the bottom. I told you the visibility was about nil.
Ok, I am here might as well feel around to see if I can find the tools. No dice, the bottom feels like warm Jell-O and I can not find them. Scratch those tools up to a learning experience. The rest of the bottom also has about 10mm of fuzz growth but it comes off with just a swipe of your hand. Good enough lets do a little sailing for a change and see if the growth washes itself off.
Off we go for a couple of weeks of sailing. 110 miles later we have a pretty clean bottom just from the movement through the water. Time to go to a marina and haul out to do a proper paint job on the bottom.
After checking a few marinas for haul out prices we decide on the marina at Alanya, Turkey. This marina is also the starting point for the Vasco Da Gama Yacht Rally that we have signed up to be part of, which leaves on 10 October, 2009.
Time to kill so Mary needs a daughter / grand daughter fix and wants to visit before the rally starts. We do NOT do well apart but we have also realized that you cannot be in two places at once. Off Mary goes for a 3 week visit and also to get the needed ASHA, American Speech & Hearing Association, certificate for the NZ job gig.
Next day I am slated to pull Still Dreaming so I can paint the bottom. Let me say here that Dan does NOT do boat backing unless it is absolutely necessary. When trying to back Lifes Dream she pretty much went where she wanted to, not where I intended. Still Dreaming, completely different animal. We have a 18" max-prop and a fin keel. Haul out time. When backing out from the quay there are no docks behind me so I can make a real wide arc and line up on travlift well after rounding the floating dock that I just left from. I back down between the line of boats tied up and park directly in the middle of the well. Let me tell you folks, I damn near broke my arm patting myself on the back for that maneuver.
I am not being exactly sure where the lift straps need to be so I borrow a mask and jump into the well and point out to the lift operator where the keel starts and ends and where the driveshaft is located. Ready to lift her up, the operator asks me where the straps go. Damn, what did I just point out to him when I answered his previous questions. Hey, better safe so in I go again and direct him exactly where the straps should be placed. I have seen a few travlifts over the years but this one is the first radio controlled lift ever for me. The lift operator starts the diesel on this 100 ton lift and then lifts the boat out of the water and drives it to where it is to be lowered and blocked walking along behind with his tummy pack control module. Pretty cool! Wooden logs, looking very much like a new fence post, are cut with a chainsaw to properly block Still Dreaming. All is ready for the painting to start tomorrow. Too bad my #1 helper is 5,000 miles away. Now you know “what you do on a boat all day.”
Later mates.
Dan
Well yesterday I had a “Jahr Day.” Translated, I had a powerboat play day. My brother-in-law and nephews are all power boat people. See guys, I was good and did not even call them “stink-boats.” OOPS!
I went out for a 25 mile run down the coast on a 46 Bayliner. I did not even know that they made Bayliners that big. We only cruised along at about 9 knots. Patricia, the owner, needed a knowledgeable deck hand, for we were going out with three of her friends that were not boaters. This boat had been in charter and is a 1999 model. Inside steering and fly bridge. I took along my computer with max-sea running for electronic charts. We did have a Turkey chart onboard, but it was only small scale so pretty useless. The max-sea chart was also not detailed enough, but very useful for telling our progress down the coast. Patricia found a 2010 Turkey coast brochure that did have a lat/lon of the harbor that we were headed for. I entered this in my hand-held GPS so we had course and distance that was readable at the helm. Computer screens can NOT be seen in the bright light of the helm regardless what the magazine adds lead you to believe. This harbor has the break wall up but nothing inside is finished. Just another example of promoters getting started and then run out of money. Good for us, as it is needed protection, and you can anchor inside for FREE. As you all know, I do free very well!
By this time it was lunch time and the ladies put on a very nice spread. After lunch it was swim call. The inflatable dingy was launched and we proceeded outside of the harbor to a nice sand beach only 300 meters from the anchored boat. Most of the Turkish beaches are very rocky at the shore but this was very sandy, pleasant surprise. After a quick dip Dave, Liz and Pat took the dink and did a little exploring, I chose to get some NEEDED aerobic exercise so I swam back to the boat.
The trio sussed out the river just to the east of the break wall. They said it was a nice river but a sandbar at the entrance made it possible to pass over with a dingy but nothing larger.
Anchor up and head back to our marina. Dave and & were on the sun cushions on the bow chatting. Since our Captain was a woman, I told Patricia that she did not have “deck dollies” down here she had “deck hunks.” Well deck hunk was a bit of a stretch, but it gave the Captain a good laugh.
Chatting with Dave and his mate Liz I said that I missed seeing dolphins when we were sailing. We have been in the Mediterranean now for 7 summers and I have yet to see a single dolphin. Sure as hell, as soon as those words were spoken Dave points to port. LOOK---dolphins! What a great treat. We had two dolphins riding our bow wake and they stayed there for at least a couple of minutes. Of course we were all so enjoying this display, no camera for proof positive, we all came away with memory moments but NO actual photographs. These dolphins were so close, if the bow was not so high, you could have actually touched them. SORRY Mary, wish you could have been here to see them. Honest, they really do exist in the Med.
Once back at the marina Captain Patricia had the fun? to back her boat into the quay. I was a bit of drama, she was listening to the joker-boat guys which do not have a clew what they SHOULD be doing. Story learned later is that there is a bit of politics going on in this marina which is still under construction. They are to hire only people that live in the town. Thus you get joker-boat operators that are LEARNING and we are their practice material. After a bit of shouting and lots of advise from the quay we were safely tied up. Alls well that ends well as I always say.
Thus the end of my very enjoyable “Jahr Day.”
Mary is in Florida getting a family fix with Jenny & Hatti for three weeks.
Guess I better get busy.
The bottom of Still Dreaming needs to have new anti-fouling paint applied. The grand plan is to move the boat east about 6,000 miles in the next 8--9 months. A clean smooth bottom can make the miles easier and hopefully faster. Well, I have time to kill so I decide to do the super job on the bottom this time. I have power tools aboard so I dig out the random-orbital sander and get to it. These tools are American so they run off of 120V-AC not the 240V-AC found in most other parts of the world. I can power these tools from my inverter aboard the boat but that will flatten the batteries sooner or later. I have a 240V battery charger installed in Still Dreaming for this task.
Of course it required a bit of running around to buy Turkish plug ends and make up short jumper cables to mate the work yard electricity to my power cables. Each country, it seems, has a bit different style of plugs so you acquire many adapters along the way.
I decide to sand off the old bottom paint and make a very smooth surface for the new anti-fouling. About 2 hours into the project my sander starts to throw off the sanding disks. Now on to plan B. Get Mersut, the work yard do everything guy, to pick me up a new orbital sander the next morning. The new Black & Decker, definitely not my choice of brands, is purchased the next day. As an American I can say we are very spoiled by tool prices. This sander is about 3 times what it would cost at Home Depot but you just got to do what you have to do. At least the new one is 240V so it will work along the way just fine. New sander is variable speed, which is a good thing. Bad thing, it is twice the weight. Not a problem when sanding in the normal down position. Try holding it over your head and it gets HEAVY and quickly. I wear a good respirator but keeping the very fine dust out of your eyes is a burning problem after a couple of hours. Well long story short, after only FIVE days the sanding is done.
Whenever I do the bottom I always wish my boat was 4 meters not 14. Wash the boat bottom with a long handle brush and a hose to remove the sanding dust. Paint is applied with a regular roller and that only takes about 4 hours per coat. I applied two coats, one each day. Wow Still Dreaming looks great with a freshly painted bottom.
Still Dreaming needs her diesel tank topped up. I have flagged down the diesel delivery truck and have purchased 200 liters of diesel in 10 jerry cans sitting beside the boat ready to be hoisted aboard. I rig up a block off the spinnaker pole and hoist the jugs aboard. To be on the safe side I always try to run my fuel through a Baja fuel filter which removes any particles and water that may be present. My newly installed fuel gauge does NOT work so I have to rely on engine hours and liters added to try and figure out how much fuel will fill the tank. According to my figures I need about all 200 liters to fill up. Good news, I do not need as much as I thought I did.
Bad news, I fill the tank completely and run it over. Well, that was my reason for wanting to fill the tanks when I was in the work yard. Much better to spill a bit on the concrete than into the harbor for sure. When I went to bed that night I was sure I could smell diesel. I will sort it out tomorrow. Next day I raise up the bed mattress, remove all the contents of a locker and take the locker floor out to get to the diesel tank. Sure as hell the NON functioning fuel gauge is leaking a very small amount of diesel from under one of the mounting screws.
Talk to a few mates and we determine that I must lower the level of diesel in the tank, but how. I have racor fuel filters in the engine room so I may be able to drain out fuel from the bottom of the filter. No go, I dump all the fuel in the filter but no more comes out. Sitting on the floor in the lazarette trying to solve this dilemma I spy the fuel line that has a fitting that just needs to be parted and I may have a solution. I have 5 liter jugs that the fuel will be dumped into. Cool , the diesel is draining SLOWLY but at least I think I am making headway on this problem. About 2 liters later the flow comes to a stop. Ok, now to the manual method. I have a squeeze bulb in the fuel line that I use when bleeding the air out of the engine. Let me tell you, when I say engine room that is REALLY stretching the meaning of room. If you are pushing 100kg you may not even fit into the room?? Luckily, I am small for this task. Laying across the engine I squeeze the fuel bulb and a small squirt of diesel is sent into the jug. Squeeze away, slow but sure. Actually, 143 squeezes will fill up a 5 liter jug. What in the hell else do I have to do but count to see exactly how many times I must squeeze this bulb? Well it takes 5 jugs or 25 liters of fuel to lower the tank level so that it no longer is leaking. Next day I head to the sinai ( industrial work area) with a piece of paper with the Turkish name for a sealant that will stop the leak and the smell. Mesut says that I should just ride my bike to the sinai instead of taking the bus. Well he knows best so off I ride with the directions to turn right at the eighth traffic light. Let me tell you people do not notice hills when on a motorcycle. Fifty five minutes later I get to the number eight light and turn into the Sinai.
Get a tube of sealant and ride back. Along the way back I also have to find the cooking gas shop which REALLY is a challenge to find. I am on a mission for I my cooking gas is about to run out and I do not want COLD coffee in the morning. More on this later.
Now that the diesel is lower in the tank I can remove the leaking screw. Clean up the area with acetone. Add a washer and lots of sealant on the threads and washer. Screw it back in and then cover the whole area with sealant. Whew, that was easy. Leak fixed and lots of sealant on hand if I have more problems down the way.
Now that I have opened up the diesel line, I am sure that I will have to bleed the air out of the line in order for the engine to start. Diesel engines will not run if there is any air in the system. I fill up the racor fuel filter and round up some mates to help. This is a three person job. When the engine is running it usually pulls in sea water to keep it cool. Not when it is on the hard. Margret and Peter are recruited. Margret mans the water hose, inside the boat, to supply water to the engine once it starts. I expect that Peter will have to roll the engine over 6--8 starting sequences as I am in the engine room squeezing up the squeeze bulb in the diesel line. Ok peter, give her a try. Engine rolls over about 3 turns and BOOM, running! I am a happy camper for sure. We let the engine run for three or four minutes just to make sure there is no air in the system that will stop a diesel.
Ready to splash back in, almost. Mersut has agreed to lift the boat and let it hang in the slings for several hours so that I can paint the 8 spots where it was blocked up & under the keel. With this completed and several hours drying time, we go back in the water again. Engine starts right up. Of course there is another boat occupying the space that I came from. With Mersut's help we move one boat over a bit and I can squeeze Still Dreaming back into her space.
Now the cooking gas fiasco. We use camping gaz bottles. We have always been able to either exchange or refill our bottles. That is till we got here. This is a marina under construction, and also a marina very much on a learning curve as to what cruisers really want and NEED. I have been messing with the office for well over a week to try to get my bottles filled. They say it is illegal to fill these bottles. I agree with that BUT everywhere else can do it why not here? Thus the learning curve comes into play. I just do not really like being their subject to learn on. Forget the office, talk to Mersut to get a problem solved. He is working on it, maybe tomorrow.
Thus you see how I “kill time & keep busy.”
Later mates.
Dan
I wanted to get in one more Greece blog before we depart from Alayna, Turkey and can’t make a blog entry for awhile - what can one say about he place? Just opining here but Greece is part on the European Union and continues to use the Greek alphabet. Turkey gave up on the old alphabet years ago and uses ours. Turkey has been trying to get into the European Union for years without much success.
I always have reasons for knowing when I have been in a place too long. In Central America it was when I recognized all the FUIDS ( f…. ugly island dogs), in Turkey is was when the touts recognized us and no longer bothered to try to sell us anything, and in Greece it was when I started to recognize words in the Greek alphabet. In looking at the two sign pictures below which were literally less than a meter apart, the signs for the towns in Greek and the store signs in English lead me to believe - hey, you are in Greece, it doesn’t matter if you know where you are just spend those Euros.
Our daily routine was breakfast on the boat, then Christiana and I would drive to the next area to wait for Dan and Manfred sailing Catalina. Since we arrived earlier, we would find a nice tavern by the water and have a cold drink. Then we would buy a pastry at the local bakery and a place to eat trying to look out for the guys coming on the boat. I would buy a piece of spinach pie that oozed fresh cheese piled with fresh spinach in the flakiest of crusts. Those who know me know that a food person I am not, however while eating this I demanded that Christiana get a picture of me eating my spinach pie with delight. When we saw the boat approach the anchorage all of us yelled and waved our arms acting like Catalina had just finished an ocean crossing rather than a sail of about 25 miles starting six hours before.
In the evening, along the harbor side in Greece are outdoor ‘alfresco” tavernas, eateries, tavernas, eateries, what - did I say tavernas?
We took the bus back to Athens and spent a few days taking in the city. Next blog to follow. I know I stated this would be the last Greece blog. Just a short one to follow on Athens and return to Turkey. I wonder when I am sailing down the Red Sea if a will miss all those Greek tavernas by the shore?
Wrıtıng from an ınternet cafe ın Mersın Turkey. Rally left wıth lots of horns tootıng and lots of wavıng for all sıx boats. The fırst stop was about 23 mıles away down the coast. We should have been the fastest boat by length and desıgn. We couldn,t get ıt over 4 knots. I fınally asked Dan to check the bılge to see ıf we had taken on alot of water weıght. Everythıng fıne ın the boat as the other boats whızzed past. At one poınt we needed to tack. I am at the helm and cannot effectıvely turn the wheel for the tack. HM, have we caught somethıng on the prop? Dan dıves over the sıde wıth me beıng the very nervous Nellıe. Dan appears wıth a torn large pıece of ındustrıal buılder's piastıc. Talk about a drogue. The plastıc was wrapped around the prop. What a day.
Next day abıt further. Good saıl but ham radıo no receptıon and a postıonıng program decıded to act up. More headaches. Wıth the help of more educated people than we all ıs up and runnıng succesfully agaın. At least at thıs moment!!!
On thırd day, enjoyed a great fresh fısh fry as two of the boats successfully caught enough for everyone. Wonderful potluck shoresıde. The grılled fısh was delıcıous wıth the man who caught, cleaned,and cooked the fısh on the barbecue a nonfısh eater. I provıded Spanısh rıce whıch seemed to be enjoyed. Good prıce for the fısh. Dan has decıded hıs fısh lures are too bıg for the fısh here. He wıll have to buy some smaller ones ın Mersın to use on the way to Cyprus and Eqypt.
Wınd has been typıcal of the Med. Good, bad, wrong dırectıon, too lıght,not at all. People on the other rally boats are very nıce. All ın 50tıes and 60tıes. Two boats are Swıss (Swıss German), two are UK, one ıs Dutch and us. More boats are meetıng us ın Port Saıd ther start of the Suez canal ın Egypt. Day hops have been between 24 to 45 mıles. The next leg wılll be an overnıght saıl to Larnacca ın Greek Cyprus.
Wıll check out of Turkey shortly we hope. After 7 years we are stıll waıtıng for the elusıve documents to say we can saıl to a new courtry. Wıll upload px hopefully ın Cyrpus.
Arrival Jounieh, Lebanon October 22,2009. Two night sail with good wind as we approached the coast. In the daylight the wind would lessen so we would have to motor but as night came the wind briskly increased. The darkness seems to add to the feeling of speed. We had started a watch schedule. What seems to work the best for us is to start around 6 or 1800 with three hours on and three off. I am laying in the double berth with no lee cloths up. Lee cloths are material attached to the beds and the walls that will keep one in bed while the boat is healing. Suddenly my one leg drops off the bed. Aha - the wind has come up!
Full Flight with Tony and Pat about an hour ahead. Medea with Werner and Elizabeth, Adelante with George and Margaret, and us sailing pretty much together through the second night. About 15 miles out we are all contacted by the Lebanese Navy which had received advanced notification that we were sailing from Mersin Turkey. At 12 miles out, we contacted the Port captain and provided the same information. All boats had to be coming directly from the north and west. If there was any indication that we were sailing from the direction of Israel, we would not have received permission to enter the country. Lebanon is very wary of Israel since the devastating attacks on primarily Beirut in the past.
Once in the marina and tied up to the entry quay, the paper work with the port captain, immigration and customs was quickly, efficiently and politely handled for all the rally people together. Aside from being tired, all seemed well. We had lost a fitting on the electric autopilot, Adelante was having problems with the drive shaft and will need to be hauled out of the water.
Two boats, Mistral with Lo the rally coordinator, the two terriers, and Gibson and Nadeesh from Cochin, and Forever Freedom with Pauline and Peter, left later then the others. Their sail from Turkey was abit more eventful as they were caught in a thunderstorm. As Still Dreaming sailed, I could see the lightning behind us giving quite a spectacular show and wondered if the others were going through the storm. Indeed they were. As I write this, Dan is over at Forever Freedom, going up the mast to replace a block that broke during the storm.
Yesterday, Tony and Pat from Full Flight stopped over. Tony was helping Dan with the autopilot. He is a welder by trade but a hands on guy with anything mechanical. He is also the fisherman and cook. I keep telling Tony and Pat we are definitely sailing with them all the way to India.
Tony is coming out of our companionway and trips. He badly twists his ankle. As he is sitting in the cockpit, I through up frozen chicken to put on the swelling ankle. Tony passes out twice. I am getting cold cloths for his forehead. His wife, Pat is holding up his foot. Dan and I are trying to get Tony turned around so he can lay down. We are calling for Margret on Adelante to come and look as she is a retired physical therapist. Anyway for a few minutes there is MUCH ANGST and commotion afoot (pardon the pun, could not be helped).
Margret assures us the ankle is not broken. Tony is started to use his wonderful English humor so we know he is feeling better. His color is returning. I get an ace bandage which Margret professionally wraps around the ankle. We load Tony up with some good pain pills. Within 30 minutes, he is working on the autopilot in which he successfully diagnosed the problem and helped Dan fix. I cook dinner and we end up having a lovely meal chatting away. Welcome to Lebanon!
In total, 11 of us, walked up to catch the rented bus and driver at 8:30 AM for a day outing to the famous ruins of Baalbek, about a two hour ride from Jounieh. No bus. Peter mentions that a friend texted from Cyprus to say that there was a time change and asked if it were the same in Lebanon. Yes, indeed, we were waiting for the bus at 7:30 am. The bus promptly arrived at 8:30.
Baalbek was well worth the drive. We are not as educated or inspired by ruins or as Mark Twain was known to have said "old stones" so sometimes we wonder do we want to travel and walk through the ancient sites. We were not disappointed by Baalbek. Since there were 11 of us, the cost of a guide was $2.50 US per person. He was a treat. Again, what comes across from these ruins is the enormity of the land ruled by the Romans, the Greeks, the Venetians, the Ottomans, and so it goes. With each ruling country the changes in the religions and the significance that plays in the art and the architecture that remains provides fascinating knowledge of what life was like. Being worked on for thousands of years with slave labor, elephants brought in from India and Africa, granite mined in Egypt shipped to the coast and rolled hundreds of miles to the site, Baalbek was never truly finished.
Observations and thoughts on Lebanon:
I did not expect the large presence of the Christian religion. We saw no churches in Turkey. Even though Turkey is quite westernized and European in many ways it clearly is a Muslim country. I thought Lebanon was going to be even more so. Our rented bus passed signs for evangelical and catholic schools. Christian churches, statues and such are as visible as the Mosques.
Definitely a military air to the place but in a nice way (if there is such a thing). We passed through many check points. Easy to go through but there were alot of them. Baalbek is located not too far from the Syrian border. From our gatherings the people are wary of Syria and Israel but still regard Israel as more of a threat since the attacks, primarily on Beirut, during the civil war. In the lonely planet guide from 2004, it stated there are about 300,000 Palestinian refugees in Lebanon.
English is the language of business. I get it. However, it still amuses me and I wonder how the people deal with it. I often think, okay what if the US spoke and wrote English (which we do). Yet 95% of the store signs and anything to do with business was in, lets say, French. In Lebanon, the official language is Lebanese and the second language is French. In Turkey, many people upon seeing than I am not Turkish often spoke to me in German. Here it is bonjour. However, all the signs for the McDonalds, KFC, Pizza Hut, Appleby’s, Dunkin Donuts, plus the REAL Lebanonese places are ALL in English plus Arabic. The road signs are in Arabic and English.
I will get this posted. Plans for tonight are to go to the boat named Forever Freedom for a drink at 6:00 pm, 1800. We won’t stay long because we invited Nadeesh and Gibson, the two young men (19) from Cochin, India traveling with the rally coordinator, Lo, over for a popcorn and a movie. They are delightful. The movies were placed on DVDs by Raja, J’s friend. He mailed them to me when I was visiting J and Kiera last month. Thank you Raja. Also thanks to the people who send quick notes to let us know these missives are getting out there. We appreciate all the comments.
The Rally is now in Jounieh, Lebanon.
One of the nice things about this group is that their are many skills among us and everyone is willing to help anyone else. I had been sewing a rip and putting a patch on the dodger from Forever Freedom, the Brit boat belonging to Peter and Pauline. Alantae the Swiss boat with George and Margatete aboard was having stuffing box troubles and were pulled out on sled and Tony, from Full Flight, and I were tightening up bolts to attach the drive shaft after the problem was solved. We then went under the boat to tightening up the zinc anodes on the driveshaft. I looked up and saw a black and white something swimming in the slipway. At first we thought it was a dog retrieving something from the water. A few meters closer and we saw it was a CAT with a CAN stuck over it's head. I ran the 30 meters down the walkway digging things out of my pockets as I went. We do not know long this poor cat had been swimming and not knowing where it was going. It started to sink so I dived in and grabbed the can with the cats head still firmly stuck inside. I started the swim to the shallow end where the boat sled goes down into the water. Two or three yanks on the can and a very crazy eyed cat head appeared. Of course he wanted to bite me but he was so tired he could not even keep himself afloat. I swam slowly to shore talking to his and trying to calm him down, better said than done. When I got to the point that I could let him down and his feet touch bottom he staggered a few meters and lay under some wooden pilings. I could see his little sides just heaving. He lay there for about 10 minutes and then got up and staggered to high ground.
Tony and I guessed this poor cat had less than a minute before it drown if I had not been there.
We believe this was an accident, for the can was a new cat food can. The type that had the pull tab opening with a little shoulder so when the cat put his head in past his ears it would not come off.
As I approached a few minutes later and tried to talk to him he turned and ran as best he could for cover. Ungrateful cat!
Later mates
Dan
WE ARE SAFE & SOUND IN CYPRUS--------
The latest pirate attack was on a boat that was in the #2 rally and Lo the rally coordinator is very aware of the problems. He has contacted the military of Yemen and Coalition Forces for our Security when we get down that way-----aprox March 2010
Family & Friends------We are now in Cyprus. It took 23 3/4 hours to make the 115 miles from Lebanon. That averages out to 4.8 knots. Not great but at times we were making 7.5, which is fast for us. We could sail about half the way and had to motor the other half. Got right in the middle of a huge thunderstorm, of course at 11PM. This shit never hits you when it is daylight, that would take part of the fun?? out of it. I had all of the main sail up and got hammered with winds sometimes up to 40 knots. That is a LOT of wind. Mary was steering with the engine running as I struggled to get the main sail down. Should have done this half an hour earlier. Always learning and I WILL not make this mistake again. It is a bit un-nerving for Mary when I have to go to the mast, with my life harness on and tethered to the boat, in the driving rain to get the sail under control. I am pumped when this is happening and unfortunately it scares the hell out of Mary. She ALWAYS come through when the shit hits the fan and trembles after it is over. We do make a great team and I can always count on her when she is really needed. This little oops was at a cost of 4 broken plastic sail slugs. These are the things that are fastened to the sail & slide up the mast and keep the mainsail attached in the groove of the mast. I will try to get replacements for them today in town. They are attached by sewing a small nylon web through a grommet in the sail and the slug.
Attached are some px of our boat and one that is like ours but 40' while Still Dreaming is 47'. Also navigation station showing the radar working. We could track the thunderstorm with the radar very well. It was all around us and stretched for about 3 miles in any direction, NOT good. The computer was running a Max-Sea navigation program and the little red ship in the middle is us. This system track all the big ships, it is mandatory by international law that they have AIS (automatic identification system) running at all times. All 6 of the boats in our group had this system, but us and Full Flight only have receivers but not transmitters. This system is GREAT for it identifies ships by name and gives course, speed, closest point of approach, and time to impact ( sorry could not resist that one). Mary was not a fan of this system when we left Turkey and loves it now. The Max-Sea is a very complicated total navigation program, we are very much in the learning mode with this great tool. It is also great for getting exact lat / lon positions to be entered into the GPS as a waypoint. Pull out a line from our little red boat to shore or another ship and we know the exact distance that they are away. Really cool, wish we had a transmitter also but it was way more expensive in the US than they are in Europe. At least we can see others. Good way to keep track of our other rally boats. AIS can track freighters, due to the great height of their antenna, as far away as 75---100 miles.
Off to the chandlery for boat bits. -----got every thing that I needed in one trip. #1 on the list was sail slugs for the main. I could not get metal like I wanted but did find plastic slugs that are much stronger than what was in there. They are attached by sewing them to the sail grommet with a short piece of webbing as the connection material. Good thing I like to sew and have a sail palm always at the ready. There is your homework, if you do not know what a sail palm is look it up.
Internet here is for SHIT!!!!!!!!! They sell you a card for access for an hour for 4 Euro. We managed to look at two pictures of Hatti, highlight of the day to say the least. They make it pretty easy to log in and start the clock running on this card. Log out complete different story. The bloody clock is ticking and I can not find out how the hell to log out. Probably used 60% of the time to try to log out. Very maddening especially when you once into the internet it works real half assed and will send mail at a snails pace IF at all. The other option is go up to a bar with free, ha ha, internet. Beer is reported to be 6 Euro each. The last time we went to one of these places in Turkey we spent $25 in drinks for the free internet. Of course we could then stagger back to the boat knowing that we have communicated with all our friends and family.
Off now to try and get this sent to you. See what efforts we go to so you are kept updated? Thus we VALUE your mail, do not give us the shit about what can I say we did not do anything as we have heard before from friends.
Weather here has been rainy and overcast. The prediction for the next few days is for lots of wind--- 25---30 kts. We may stay a few more days to let the system settle down a bit. It is a 2 day sail from here to Pt Said, Egypt which is the start of the Suez canal.
Later mates,
Dan
We left Lebanon with a fantastic wind needing to sail 113 nautical miles to Larnacca, Cyprus. About 11:30 pm 2330, I am seeing a storm off our port bow and side or beam. I locate it on the radar and we determine it is about 2 miles away. Dan is down sleeping. I suddenly look to port and see total black all the way down to the water. In the time it took me to go below and wake Dan IT hit!!!!
The wind increased from about 8 knots to 25,30,35,40! We had the full main up. I grab the wheel and try to bring the boat into the wind so Dan can get the main down. Not a great moment or several hours but we survived minus a few sail slugs from the main sail and a few other items but nothing major. My stress level was at an all time high, closest I have ever had to having a knock down. Not me, but rather when a sailboat has a “knockdown” is when the wind pushes the boat so far over that the mast touches the water.
However, as we approached Larnacca, Cyprus the wind adjusted to the right direction at an acceptable level and we sailed comfortably to the harbor entrance.
Part of what is interesting in sailing to countries is getting the real background of the country. We are learning much about the history of this island and other tidbits. Another Vasco Da Gama couple, Peter and Pauline from Forever Freedom, lived in Cyprus for 6 years while Peter was serving in the British Military. One quick tale is that Cyprus often has a water shortage. Pauline tells about loading up a huge tanker in Greece to bring water to Greek Cyprus with no way of unloading the water once the tanker arrives. Many, many people from Great Britain have retired here. Before Cyprus (both Greek and Turkish Cyprus) became part of the EU the cost of living here was very cheap. Like other countries entering the EU, once in, the money switches to the Euro the cost of living skyrockets. All the Brits that moved here when the pound was high and the Cypriot money low now are having a tough time of it. We provisioned at a huge modern supermarket and spent 144.89 Euros. At the present time, each Euro is like spending $1.50 USD. Times have changed for the dollar value since we began cruising. Welcome to Greek Cyprus.
A quick update, bad weather has kept us in port in Larnacca, Cyprus. At this time, we are looking for a Friday morning departure. It is about 240 miles to Port Said, the entrance to the Suez Canal. With this wind, even when the wind abates the sea state becomes very untenable which means very uncomfortable and difficult to sail through. Have visited with a friend, Margaret, a Brit, who has an auction house here. She has been most helpful. Dan has become the rally tailor at the present. He is able to use his sewing machine for canvas repairs. Quite cool here but sitting al fresco at a café sipping a Greek Frappe (cold coffee and milk) doing the internet with Pat off of Full Flight, our little sistership , a Wauquiez, 40 feet.
It is 0215 in the morning and we finally make landfall in Egypt - the Port Fouad Marina across the canal from Port Said (pronounced SI-EED). So technically we are still in Asia looking over at Africa. These cities house the northern entrance to the Suez Canal. The adventure is about to begin.
The sail from Larnaca, Cyprus was 240 miles. The sail started well with a spectacular wind that went through the day and all night. During the night we had the main sail up with two reefs and a smidgen of the staysail. I still call it a stay sail but technically I think that is not correct. We were surfing down the waves at over 8 knots. We sailed into the next day with good winds. We are making very good time, 150 miles in the first 24 hours----great for us, which means that we will arrive in Port Said in the middle of the night. Decision time - do we hold off, slow down or hove to (a procedure with the sails that will virtually stop the boat in the water) and enter in the day. We radioed the rally coordinator ,Lo, who was going on into the port. He states we could follow him. He has been here 6 times in the past. We decide to follow LO on Mistral and Moody Time ( a new arrival in Larnaca, Cyprus) in through the MAZE of ships, channels, and the constant radio chatter with the Port Control getting and giving information for all the ships entering and leaving the Suez, 24 hours a day.
Interesting note, as we hear all the accents from all over the world giving
the necessary information in English. Remember the business language of
the world is English and international law is that all ship radio communications of the world is in English. We hear one captain that is extremely USA, in fact in trying to place him, I would have said California or Midwest, well spoken and articulate. We continued to listen becoming interested in the vessel and all the particulars that the captain has to report - besides size, speed, anchors, what is the last and final destination and cargo. When the American was asked he responded that the vessel’s last port was Gibraltar and the next was Djibouti, Africa. The vessel was relatively small and the cargo wheat. Dan and I surmised it to be a relatively small vessel going from Gibraltar probably having just crossed the Atlantic with a load of wheat for an improvised country on a humanitarian mission from the US.
First thoughts about Egypt - I am looking at huge freighters progress into the Mediterranean as boys are swimming off the dock next to our boat as part of class - all are good swimmers and being coached. The water is filthy, at least by our standards. I see rowboats with workers trying to get across. I see huge ferry boats taking people and cars across as I see boys rowing as part of a class with lovely sculls next to poor people chock a block in an old row boat rowing across the river. NO GIRLS of course. I see some small day sailors. I see small fishing boats actually fishing in this melee of every kind of vessel available whizzing every which way.
We settle in for the day getting the necessary information regarding transiting the canal. More boats have joined the rally.
As we are now in the town of Ismailia, Egypt events take place each minute it seems so I will quickly complete the above blog. We were in Port Fouad (in Asia) across the canal from Port Said (in Africa). We waited for our passports to be returned from the agent call FELIX with the necessary three month visa. The passports were returned so we could leave the marina to take the free ferry over to Port Said. A man came around and asked if we needed fuel. We decided to get three jury containers filled. We then had to wait for the fuel to be returned. By then it was going on 1800, 600 PM so we said lets go tomorrow.
LO, the rally coordinator returns to announce that the first 7 boats, which includes us, are leaving tomorrow 0600, 6 am, to begin the transit of the canal. Our first full day in Egypt and we never left the marina.
Next blog - the first day of the transit of the Suez and the Suez Pilot that has to be on your boat. For those of you who have heard all the horror stories about these pilots -- THE STORIES are TRUE! One can only laugh.
The Suez Canal Pilot
The Suez Canal is a long wide ditch connecting the Red Sea and Mediterranean Sea. It was officially opened in November of 1869 with the first thought of attempt for such a venture starting in the 12th century BC by Ramses II. At that time, the end of the canal was in the Nile Delta. A bit of trivia was that the Statue of Liberty was actually made as a gift to Egypt by the French for the opening of the canal. Obviously it didn’t make it and was sent to the US. Problems with shipping, we think. The French and the British were the main strongholds in helping to make the present day canal a reality. The towns of the canal, Port Said, Ismailia, and Port Suez were obviously beautifully designed and constructed at that time. It doesn’t appear that much has been done since especially in Ismailia which is in the middle. The other towns have the benefit of the seas with tourism and commerce.
The canal has no locks such as the Panama and the Welland Canal between Canada and the US. As it would be assumed the canal is a terrific source of income for the coffers of Egypt. Handling the paperwork, agents, and the pilots is a big source of headache for the small private boat, us. That is one reason we joined the Vasco Da Gama rally so that through Lo, the rally coordinator, the paperwork with the canal transit and visa entrance for three months into Egypt is taken care of in a relatively smooth$? manner. Cost was $ 323.00 for canal expenses, quarantine, and port clearance. The visa was $ 50.00 for two people for one month.
Now for the pilot! Each boat no matter size or how many in a convoy has to have a pilot on board. Every yacht has a story in which it would be a great book making anyone reading it laugh whether they boated or not. The pilot will get on your boat and sit, eat, try to steer the boat, ask for “presents,” (bakeesh), for 8 hours through the boring, long day motoring through a water way looking at sand dunes policed by young military men with rifles. Supposedly it will make you safe from the large freighters. These freighters are not going much faster than you are and do not cause a wake. No matter how fast you drive the boat, the pilot will BUG you to go faster. If at any time, something would happen, you are responsible for your boat. So is there a valid reason to have one these jerks on board? So far we have not heard of one.
Our pilot story is about Abraham, supposedly father of three, two daughters 20, 18 and a son 15. Abraham is rather large, enjoys eating all the time, drinking coke, and sitting out of the sun. Not being forewarned of this gimmick - Abraham immediately asks how fast does the boat go and can he borrow a hat for the sun. The smucks (that be us) say a little over 6 knots and I give ( I didn’t realize that at the time once given a hat it becomes a “present”) the guy a ball cap. A rather nice one at that. Now we have learned that these guys get these hats, of course, all the time and sell them later.
At the end before we dock, Abraham asks for his “present”. We have been told the standard is $ 10.00 tip, bakeesh which is $ 55.00 in Egyptian money. We make yet another mistake and give it to the guy before we dock the boat. He rips open the envelop like a child, looks at the money in disgust, stuffs it back in the envelop and shoves it into Dan’s pocket. He wants $ 20.00. Dan says no. He wants $15.00. Dan says no. Suddenly, good old do nothing Abraham who by the way spent the day talking constantly and loudly on the hand held VHF radio to the point of killing the batteries and then of course asks for another one, calls someone on his mobile. He hands the phone to Dan. Dan says “yes, yes, $ 10.00” and hands the phone back to let’s call him Abe. Suddenly Abe is quiet and asks for the $10.00. The Smucks (that be us) give it to him.
I asked Dan later about the phone call. He spoke to someone who asked Dan was your pilot okay, did you give him a “present”, did you give him $ 10.00. Obviously Dan passed the test and poor ole Abe had to be content. Well maybe not. Once in and docked with friends on the boat, Abe walks by on the quay with some other pilots and asks Dan can he have shirt for his babies. Dan again says “no”. My thought was that if his babies, age 20,18, and 15 were anywhere near his size we didn’t have a shirt on this boat that would have fit.
Lessons learned for the next pilot. Yes, we have to go through this again on the final leg of the canal. If the pilot asks for a hat I will say “ and how long have you worked at this job? How long have you lived in Egypt? I would think that you would know to wear a hat.” When asked how fast does the boat go we will say “6 knots and every time you mention having the boat goes faster one dollar will be reduced from your ‘PRESENT’.” The pilot will be given the sealed envelope as he steps off the boat onto the quay. If he says anything the words from us will politely be “you are finished, get your )(*(^*& tush off our boat.” You, as the reader, may insert your own expletive deletives. Cheers for now!
With much phoning back and forth, Dan was able to arrange for two mini buses to take 13 people into Cairo. The cost of the minibus for the day ended up being 95 Egyptian pounds per person which is $ 17.25 USD. A long day for sure. The drive from Ismailia to the Pyramids was supposed to be one hour 30 minutes. Three hours 45 minutes later we arrived at the Pyramids after spending two hours in congested highway Cairo traffic. The music of this huge city, population over 20 million, is the multitude of car, truck, bus, taxi horns which cause a constant cacophony.
I am already exhausted when we reach the Pyramids which suddenly loom over the city. Dealing with the people that want to guide you, sell you something, or give you a camel, horse, horse cart ride is also tiring. La Shukran, (no thanks), walking away, and as our daughter, J, use to say about our wonderful Dakota, her Golden Retriever, if you don’t want to play just “don’t give eye contact.”
We are with Nadeesh and Gibson and had a great time. Lo, the rally coordinator, having done the Cairo activities many times stayed back. We thought is was a good way to give the boys and Lo a break from each other for the day. We did not do it but the horse back and camel rides out onto the desert over looking Cairo and the Pyramids looked inviting. Our good friends, the Larson family from Wisconsin, rode on the camels. They enjoyed it very much.
Okay not to bore you too much here are just several facts about the Pyramids that I found interesting. The Pyramids of Giza are the only surviving monuments of the 7 Wonders of the World. Also noted is that contrary to the belief that 1000s of slaves, slaved away at building the Pyramids, they were actually built by out of work farmers. When the Nile would flood on a yearly basis, the fields could not be farmed so the men with skill and organization went to work on the Pyramids. Also when the land was flooded, it was easier to transport the immense limestone blocks that weighed on the average of 2.5 tons each. The largest pyramid, KHUFU (Cheops) had about 2.3 million blocks. Okay enough of the lesson. All can be found with a few finger clicks on a PC or MAC.
I found the Sphinx very interesting. The book I use for information whenever we travel inland is the LONELY PLANET Guide. Based out of Australia, the Lonely Planet Guide appeals to our way of travel. It is also written with some humor and we feel NO nonsense info of what is safe and what is not safe. The comment I chuckled over was quoted in the LONELY PLANET guide by the English playwright, Alan Bennett who noted in his diary that seeing the Sphinx for the first time is like meeting a TV personality in the flesh - always smaller than had been imagined.
However, it is a powerful sight, the Sphinx with the Pyramids of Giza on the sand duned hills behind. The note on the Sphinx is that it is being eaten away from the inside, a cancer of the stone so to speak. Pollution and rising ground water are listed as the possible causes.
From there, we rode through the city to the Egyptian Museum. We thought it would be a good way to give us some insight into all that we will see later on the Nile. We did not hire a guide and probably should have. However, we had a wonderful taste of the Egypt that WAS!!
Now dealing with the Cairo, Egypt that is of today we know there are many, many things to do and see. Dan and I are not city people. It is not our comfort zone, so to speak. Cairo is noted for its famous KHAN al-Khalli bazaar, Felucca sails on the Nile in the city, etc. but since we hope to take a Nile boat trip later on and we don’t have a lot of room to buy “stuff” we did not spend much time in the city.
When we receive the “word” to continue on our sail from the Suez Canal Port Control, we are off again for a boat ride to the southern end of the canal, Port Suez. Oh happy day, another pilot on the boat to contend with while motoring down the “ditch“. Cheers!
Second half of the Suez Canal---- as our Britt friends say "ezzie--peezy"
Of course we were scheduled to leave at 0500. About 0515 we got a call from the dock. Lo, the rally coordinator, informed us we now go at 1100---1200. Great back to bed for a bit.
We did depart at 1130. The first half was a bit of a learning experience. When we left the mooring I put the engine on 1400 RPM, which gave us about 6 knots. Left it there the whole way. Mohamed, the pilot, never once asked us to go faster. All was well with him until payment time---NOTHING new, we have done this before. He got his $10 and I even threw in 10 pounds Egyptian. He was not happy of course. After telling him that was all he was getting after he stood around aboard for another 5 minutes he finally left in a bit of a huff. Poor fellow. Travel time for this bit was 7 hours 14 minutes.
Leaving when we did in th emid morning made it a night entrance to the Suez Canal Yacht Club. They did have a guy in a boat to tie up lines on the very large mooring buoy and I backed the boat in to the dock. I am getting a bit better but it is still always the Yanks put on a pretty good show trying to get in.
Next day was cool-it and clean the boat.
Thursday we headed to the market for fruit and veggies with Tony and Pat from Full Flight. We took a taxi the 6---8 kilometers to the town area. Fare for 4 people was 20 Pounds---about $4 USD. Market was a cultural experience as well as very low cost food. See px attached for REALLY fresh beef steaks. We took the local mini-bus back for 12 cents each. Just had to ask a few kids where we could catch the bus. The young girls were quite shy but wanted to try out their limited English.----See photo captions for wonderful treatment we received at the street side eatery.
Off on a land trip tomorrow to the Sinai-----more later
Dan
In the Red Sea at last. Well, according to the chart, we are technically in the Bay of Suez. Hey, we are out of the buoyed channel with NO PILOTS so it is the REAL Red Sea as far as Dan is concerned. Mary still compares it to being in Saginaw Bay (not REALLY being part of Lake Huron) yet with the Bay of Suez longer and fairly narrow.
We are making short 30--40 nautical mile hops in daylight headed south to the marina at Hurghada. Much too much freighter traffic and all sorts of oil rigs and reefs to contend with during the night even though they may be lit. In this section the Sea is only about 20 miles wide.
Our first stop after the Yacht Club of Suez was Dome Marina where we received a 3 month cruising permit. This being Egypt, which means we have no clue on how anything connected with the cruising legalities go, the only reason we could get the permits here was because we are part of the Vasco da Gama Yacht Rally. Apparently, Lo, the rally coordinator, while in Turkey met the owner of the marina who said it could be arranged. According to the Red Sea Pilot, the sailor's Bible, it is not possible to get the permits. Nice to have connections. With Bakeesh and connections, this is the way of traveling in Egypt.
As we are finding out, things in Egypt are not quite as described. The internet photo of the marina made it look like a nice place, WRONG. Another marina in stages of construction. Showers, you must be dreaming. Floating docks that left lots to be desired but at least we obtained the necessary 3 month permit. Cost $90 USD for 3 months and $25 USD for the night stay. Pay in Egyptian pounds, no way. They want US dollars. So the two other boats that are Swiss and British along with us hand over the green-backs. It still seems strange that even the legal governmental payments are requested in US money. Once again we are reminded of the US superpower that we still are. As we often hear from our friends from Europe the saying is " The US sneezes and the whole world gets a cold."
We knew dealing in USD $$$ would be the case so we brought back quite a bit of cash when we came to the boat. Good thing, so far when we find an ATM here, the money is dispensed only in Egyptian pounds. Many times in Turkey, you could get Turkish Lira, Euros or Dollars.
Off the next morning with a bit of drama. Dan casts off the bow line too soon and then drives over the mooring line on the big steel boat to port. After a bit of shouting, yanking, pulling, Mary driving forward and back, Dan managed to push the line, which could not be untied from the steel work boat, down with a long boat hook so Mary could back us free. A "dry mouth experience" to say the least.
Once clear of the marina, we set a headsail only and are off headed down the coast. Great clipping along at 6 knots with Harvy, the auto-pilot, steering.
Dan has been hearing fish stories about the Red Sea for many years. You never fish for longer than an hour or so because you catch too many fish. YEA---YEA-- fish stories----you should have been here yesterday kind of thing. However, he is pumped and gets the line into the water with high hopes. We use no fishing pole, just a hand spool with 20kg monofilament line and a 1 meter stainless leader attached to a long bungee cord which is secured to the boat. Dan is using his father’s favorite red and white spoon with large treble-hooks. Snap goes the clothes pin which is attached to the bungee cord and Mary yells " we got a fish."
The boat is making over 6 knots but we do not slow down at all. Dan, with gloves on, starts hauling in the line hand over hand as Mary winds the line on the hand spool. When he manages to haul the fish to the surface it is go like hell before the fish has time to turn and make a run for it. At the back of the boat, Dan steps out on the back porch, the small platform that was used to board the boat from aft before the wind vane was installed and yanks the fish into the cockpit behind the wheel. Mr. Tuna comes aboard.
SUCCESS ---- the Red Sea is living up to all the stories that Dan has heard for years. Actually the line was in the water for about 1 1/2 hours. Fish cleaning chores are completed on the white fish board and we have filets for supper.
Our first anchorage in the Red Sea is just a short distance off. After reading the Red Sea Pilot anchorage descriptions, we head in using the Max-sea electronic charts. Mary steers, as Dan bounces between checking the chart on the computer at the chart table to looking with binoculars to where we are supposed to enter what we THINK is a lagoon. Egypt again, not what we expect at all. We make our way into a slight depression in the shore. It is blowing 15---20 knots but just a slight chop. We are behind a sand spit which breaks down the 2 meter rollers that we had further out.
We slowly make our way about 1/2 mile further inside and drop the hook in about 10 meters of water. 50 meters of chain are veered out after the 88 lbs/ 40kg anchor digs into the sand bottom and we are HOME. Gin and Tonics are in order!
Great sail---a bit over 30 miles averaging 6 knots with just the staysail alone
First anchorage at Marsa Thelemet 29 degrees 02.39 North
032 degrees 38.45 East
To be continued.
Dan
In 1967, Israel invaded Egypt to gain the land known as the Sinai and the Suez Canal which then remained closed for 8 years. The land of Moses, the land of the ten commandments, the land of the Israelites being lead across the Red Sea away from the tyranny of the Pharaohs. In 1973, Egypt attacked Israel across the Suez Canal and regained the canal and the Peninsula. The Sinai has always held a fascination for me because of hearing it in the news while growing up and knowing the religious significance for the foremost monotheistic religions of the world.
As I rode a bus and am now sailing along the Sinai my thoughts are “ Israel, you attacked a country for THIS!!? Egypt, “ You wanted it back?“
And to Moses I would have said “Good on you mate for getting over these mountains of sand and rock.” The Sinai is a sandy, rocky, mountainous, desolate, barren, non forgiving, peninsula dividing the Red Sea with one side called the Gulf of Suez and the other the Gulf of Aqaba leading up to Jordan. I keep thinking ‘lunar landscape’ but that is silly because I have no idea of what a lunar landscape looks like.
What is the appeal ?- ha ya - there be oil in them der hills well at least in this here water. Also whoever controls the Suez controls one of the main water routes in the world. Day sailing is recommended due to the oil derricks and off shore oil fields that are everywhere.
The Sinai however offers something else that Egypt is starting to capitalize on. Sand along the sea means beaches. There is warm weather and sun most of the year. To those Germans, English, Russians, Ukrainians who have to exist and work in the colder, bleaker climates most of the year that short vacation to sun, sand, and swim able water is well lets say as good as the oil in the sea. Some English friends on the rally have explained that now that Spain, Portugal, Cyprus and other places that were CHEAP for the British coming with the English pound is NO longer the case. With EU memberships, the common currency of the Euro and world wide economic woes, people are seeking places that are more economical.
Egypt fits the bill, 5 and half Egyptian pounds to the US dollar and about 8 Egyptian pounds to the Euro. So the enclosed, security ridden, all inclusive packaged high rise hotels along the sea are flourishing. The tourists are driven along the new highways past the poverty, the trash, fields that are barren and look like cotton may be growing expect it turns out to be hundreds of plastic bags that have become attached to the weeds trying to grow out of the dry earth, decaying towns with no money to the compounds of rooms, restaurants, cabanas, exclusive shops, beaches and warm water.
Such are present thoughts from an anchorage overlooking the sand beaches, distant barren mountains, and a few fishing boats along the shore on the Sinai in Egypt.
People familiar with sailing the Red Sea say that once further south, more into the Red Sea, the anchorages become nicer, the reefs are beautiful with a variety of coral and sea life. Our first alone anchorage was called Endeavour Harbor. We entered with Moody Time through the reef into a nice protected bay on an island. Storm Dodger, Cobble, and Rhumb Do were there. The next morning Moody Time, Storm Dodger and Rhumb Do left for the town of Hurghada. We visited with Morris on Cobble.
After a week of not being ashore because we were not allowed to leave the boat when anchoring off the Sinai, we had a nice hike on the sandy, wind driven island. Basically the island is dead coral above the water like that which makes up the Bahamas. It is then covered with sand, sand, and more sand.
We are anchored on the lee shore (the side that does NOT get the waves). The beaches are pristine and the water color is magnificent shades of blue. No people live on the island. There are some interesting shore birds with one like an Osprey which insisted on perching on top of our mast. Yet, as always what we are first exposed to is the pure trash of humans. Plastic, plastic, plastic. As we approached the windward side of the island the beaches were covered with the oil of the offshore drilling and again the trash of humans washed ashore.
After Cobble sailed off to Hurghada we had time to ourselves and for the first time in over 6 years we donned our wetsuits, fins, and masks and snorkeled. The colors, the shapes, and sizes of the coral and sea life were great, thus one of our main reasons for wanting to sail out of the Mediterranean. Some of the people on the rally are questioning why they are sailing away from the beauty of the Mediterranean countries such as Greece, Italy and Turkey. They are now experiencing seeing the sand covered mountains with small patches of scruffy grass and trees trying desperately to grow in this windswept barren land. Just to finally get in that one snorkel, even though it was quite chilly, made us know that we had made the right decision. The world beneath the sea here is one of the world’s treasures. Like so many other gifts we humans have received from nature this too is dying. The coral from the pollutants and hordes of divers not being careful. Once the coral goes so go the fish and other sea life.
We hope to continue to enjoy the beauty whenever and wherever it may be found.
Natheesh and Gipson, the 19 year old boys traveling with Lo, the rally coordinator, have never snorkeled before. They live in Cochin India and have known Lo since they were 6 years old. Lo and the boys along with the two terriers, Yugo and Banjer, met us in Endeavour Harbor so we could take the boys snorkeling. Lo had explained that neither boy was a strong swimmer. In fact, he explained that Gipson was actually a nonswimmer.
Endeavour Harbor had places that the boys could snorkel over the coral and if need be find a sandy patch and just stand up in water that was waist deep. What a great place to initiate a swimmer with minimal ability to the beauty that lays below the surface.
It is not all that warm here. Water and land temps are in the mid-70ties ( 20ties C). Since Natheesh and Gipson are from southern, often hot India, they are chilly much of the time. We fitted them out with good wet suits that would help keep them warmer in the water. Dan took Gipson and I took Natheesh. They both did very well. They were quick learners. Gipson was extremely proud, as he should be, to find the beautiful conch (spider conch, I believe). It was still alive but he stated he could take it to show Lo and then put it back into the water.
Lo never saw it because when the boys returned to the boat, Gibson placed the conch on the side deck. Lo asked him to do something which he did. Lo stated that he heard a noise and then a soft splash in the water. When Gipson returned to show LO the conch alas the truth was known. The conch sensing this is not where it should be sidled to the side of the boat and into the water it went. I bet it was a record speed for this guy.
Once back to our boat, after warming up with hot tea and cookies, I suggested the boys practice their swimming, treading water, and just feeling comfortable in deeper water. We fitted Gipson with a good snug lifejacket. Over the side he dove. Later he asked how deep was the water. We explained it was 10 meters, 30 feet. As he beamed, he said it was the first time he had ever been in water over his head.
Hopefully as we progress south, the air and sea temperatures will rise. I explained to Gipson and Natheesh, every time they enter the water, they will improve in their skills and they will enjoy it more and more.
We are settled in Hurghada, Egypt until after the holidays. We sailed from Abu Tig Marina with friends Jurg and Margret aboard. After we arrived they took the bus back to their boat in Abu Tig. They are leaving their boat in the Abu Tig Marina until the middle of January to return home in Switzerland for about 6 weeks. Their boat, Adelante, and our friends, Elizabeth and Werner (also Swiss)on Medea are leaving the rally. Their plan is to cruise in these waters and then head back into the Mediterranean next spring and summer. We have sailed with both couples since Alanya, Turkey since the beginning of October. Werner is the person who finally was able to get Dan set up and connected with Winlink, the system to do e-mail through the ham radio. It is hard to say goodbye. However, we feel we connected with some wonderful people and that connection will not be lost.
Abu Tig is the marina in a 20 year old resort area named El Gouna. In Florida, we have the gated communities with real gates. The gate of El Gouna is the desert. It is a sprawling place with hundreds of acres for homes around the golf courses, homes, condos around the high end shops and restaurants by the marina and homes by the beach. The place is made as a vacation retirement village for all those northerners escaping the chill of Europe. I felt like we were docked in the middle of an exclusive outdoor shopping mall. Prices!! Had a great pizza in the REAL Egyptian town of Ismailia for 13 Egyptian pounds ( $2.40 USD) for two of us. In Abu Tig the equivalent was 42 Egyptian pounds ($ 7.65). A lot of money for the ambience I guess.
Hurghada is a very different resort area. If the readers of this blog are familiar with Florida, the Sanibel Island or Marco Island area and then Miami Beach one can say El Gouna is like the Marco Island and Hurghada is the Miami. I am aging myself but remember the comedy “ The Russians are Coming, The Russians are Coming”? That’s Hurghada. Dan was speaking with a local and he stated if the Russians didn’t come to vacation here the place would dry up. Talking with a tour agent today, he stated 80% of the tourists are coming from Russia with packages of as low as $500.00 USD for flight and a weeks stay here. Big gaudy resorts, places to rent, overbuilt, sprawling with packaged tours to stay here. There is an airport so flights coming from West and East Europe are direct. Cheap, warm, great reefs for snorkeling and diving, and completely westernized!!!!
For those who know marina prices and the cost of docking one’s boat at a place such as this we paid $10.00 USD a day in Abu Tig and are paying $ 15.00 USD a day here for a 47 foot, 14 M boat. They do no charge by boat length.
If we thought the touts (people bugging you to buy things) were bad in Turkey - EESH! La -La (no no) or LA Shukran ( no thank you usually works). Dan is often called a cowboy because after three bouts with skin cancer he wears a wide brim hat. As always, it is his long hair, beard and hat that draw attention.
Cheers from the Red Sea!
We had heard of the Nile boat trip from the Larson family, Jack and Joan on the boat Joanie D, and my brother Jon. Packaged boat trips take you from Luxor to Aswan or vice versa. We decided this would be our Christmas present to each other. What always seems relatively easy turns out NOT and in countries where there often is a language barrier it can really turn out NOT! After several talks with a tour agent here in Hurghada we arranged the trip.
It seems that most tours of the antiquities of Egypt are through tour agencies of which there are MANY! Prices vary of course depending on what you want to do. We basically wanted a few days to see some "old stones" as we say to get a sense of the time of the Pharaoh and life along the famous fertile Nile River. Again with that language barrier thing, one never knows how well their questions are first being understood and secondly answered in a way that will put one at ease.
We agree about the trip, Dan forks over the 3850 Egyptian pounds, $ 800.00 USD and all we get is a small hand written receipt. Okay, is this going to make sense to anyone? It certainly doesn't for us. We meet again at the tour agents a few days later, this time with another sailor, Roger, and his mother, visiting from England for the holidays. Roger was there to arrange a two day trip for a total of 8 people. Both groups, us and the other 8 are all taking the same bus at 5:00 am from the marina to Luxor. The night before at 19:30, 7:30pm, Dan and one person from the other group with a different itinerary need to meet at the marina gate to go with the bus driver to a government building so that we could get authorization to leave the city of Hurghada. All quite secretive. Dan needs to take our boat documentation paper and remember to tell no one that we arranged the trip through a tour agent due to the Eqyptian mafia wanting their cut on the tours. This is getting better and better.
Roger, from Storm Dodger, misunderstands thinking the tour agent said one person only needs to go rather than one person from each group with a different itinerary. Roger heads to the pub for a beer. Dan and the driver wait. Calls to Roger's phone are answered by his son who does not know where his dad is. The driver is getting a bit impatient as it is now 2030, 8:30, pushing nine pm and the driver needs to be up and ready to drive the whole lot to Luxor starting at 5 am, a three hour drive. Dan finally gets Ian, another cruiser, who is going with Roger and group. To satisfy the politicos Dan and Ian just say that all are people aboard Still Dreaming.
We get to Luxor, the temple of Karnak again abit befuddled since all we have been given is that small, nonreadable, at least to us receipt. On the way, the driver, who looks like Will Smith in the movie MEN IN BLACK (black suit, black sunglasses) talks on his phone frequently and once in awhile we hear the word Americans. It is times like these that I am quite happy that all of Egypt seems to love America because, as often the case, we are clueless as to what is happening and what we are getting ourselves into.
We arrive at the temple of Karnak, one guide leads Roger's group away and off we go with another tour agent into a building to meet a lovely couple from Holland. It turns out that Irma and Franklin have basically booked the same tour needing an English speaking guide. Irma, Dutch, has excellent English. Franklin is originally from South Africa, raised in Sweden and now works and lives in Amsterdam. They were a treat and we enjoyed seeing the sights and dining with them on the boat over the next three days. They seemed like us to feel that all would work out. And so it did.
The actual Nile River boat trip will be another short blog. All the information we received within the next three days kept our minds swimming with history. The time of the early pharaohs, the conquests of Egypt by the Greeks, the Romans, the Hittites, etc., the religion of Egyptian Gods, Osiris, Horus, Isis, etc,etc. the start of the Coptic Christian religion and then Islam, the plight and relocation of the Nubian people was at times overwhelming but incredibly enjoyable. Our guides were great!
The down side was that on the last day we were given box lunches to eat after the bus ride (another three hours) to Lake Nasser to see the two temples at Abu Simbel. These were Dan's favorites. Why? Not for the ancient but the more recent history in that these temples were moved so that Lake Nasser (the largest manmade lake in the world to date) could flood the land where they once stood. Alas, we ate soft cheese, and we think that was the culprit that has kept us down with the famous and most common of all traveler's ailments. We attribute it also that we do not eat out alot. We have the ability to carefully wash, treat, and cook all the food we buy in our galley. We have not let our systems get use to the "bugs" that one encounters when literally moving from one country to another in a matter of months.
We missed seeing the high dam at Lake Nasser, the Nubian music presentation on the boat, the Christmas Eve party back at the marina, and basically Christmas all together.
We did get a chance to Skype on the internet with family in the states and saw Kiera open her presents. Later we chatted with family at Mary's aunt's home in Florida.
Cheers from the Red Sea.
The Nile River is beautiful. The further south you travel the cleaner the river. The people along the shore of the Nile as you approach Aswan are the Nubians. Many were displaced when Lake Nasser was made.
We stopped and saw the ancient sights and then boarded the boat moored near hundreds of other boats all much the same. I thoroughly enjoyed just relaxing by the window and looking out at the river banks with the animals, the farmers, the fishermen, and just watching life go on along the Nile. Maybe the reason I was enjoying it so much was that someone else was driving the boat.
We took a felucca sail in Aswan. Sailed over to an island in the middle of the river that had some botanical gardens. Like many things in Egypt the gardens are in need of updating and improvement but still lovely. The gardens were started when Egypt was under English rule.
From Aswan it was a long bus trip back to Still Dreaming in Hurghada. Good to be home.
Petra
It was a fast crazy visit, but we made it to the ancient city of Petra. We flew from Hurghada to Sharm El Sheik on the south end of the Sinai. We then bused it to Bir Taba on the Gulf of Aqaba, the Egypt side. We ferried across the top of the Gulf of Aqaba to the city of Aqaba and checked into Jordan. From there we bused it to Petra. If interested, people can internet search the city.
A few facts is that this huge area deserted due to earthquakes, the decreased need for incense, such as frankincense ( due to the increase in Christianity) and changes in the trading routes east and west was rediscovered by a Swiss gentleman in 1812. It was interesting learning about the inhabitants, the Nabataeans, creating a wealthy prosperous community trading with countries such as India, China, Jordan, Syria, Greece, Turkey, etc.
We were able to only get a very quick glimpse of this 50 sq kilometer site but we were glad we did. It is a place we would like to return to some day and spend a few days hiking the magnificent sandstone cliffs and exploring the vast area of ancient sites.
The Bedouins lived in the caves until 1985 when the Jordanian government made them move to a site nearby in which a city was made for them to live. However, they are able to sell their wares at the site. For those who are devotees of the movie "Raiders of the Lost Ark" with Harrison Ford, Petra was used for some of the filming.
According to daughter, J, the city is on the latest 7 wonders of the world list and also in the top 10 places to visit before one is dead. Hm, hope that wasn’t an omen as we sail south.
Once we sail south out of Port Ghalib, we are not sure when we will be able to get another blog with pictures posted. Dan will use the ham radio, winlink system to send blog entries to our friends Raja in MIchigan and Mirjim in New Zealand. They in turn can get it posted on the internet. We cannot upload pictures because the system is MUCH!!!! slower than traditional internet.
We have finally been able to get in a scuba dive! The Red Sea is certainly living up to its reputation as a major diving Mecca. We are seeing sea life that we have not seen before. Giant clams, Lionfish, a huge Yellowbar Angelfish, etc. All the dive gear worked well even after all these years.
The luck of having the northwinds may soon change as we are expected to get southerlies in a day or two. Well we certainly enjoyed it while we had it. We had a great dinner last night at TGI Fridays here at the marina. How Egyptian is that? In these places what the tourists want is what America has. Anyway it was very good.
We are waiting for the check out from immigration and customs. Dan has gone up to pay the marina bill. Even though we are officially checked out of Egypt, we still have around 250 miles of coast to sail along before we enter Sudan. I could write a lot about how the bureaucracy is here but the angst would certainly cause me to go crazier than I am already so I made bread. Punching and kneading the bread is a great anxiety reducer. Besides, once leaving here we will have limited or no place to get bread and such. I make a pressure cooker bread that Dan loves and of course using a pressure cooker saves on fuel.
Once we depart from here the next marina we will go into is in India 3500 miles away. Saying goodbye to new friends in always hard. We said goodbye to a friend of Tony and Pat's on Full Flight. Mick is a cyclist who has cycled all over the world. His plans are to return to England and get ready with his wife to go walking through parts of Africa.
We enjoy getting updates from people through the winlink e-mails.
After dealing with the Egyptian bureaucracy, I felt like the rally boats resembled the exodus from Egypt even though technically we will still be sailing another 250 miles down the Egyptian coast before entering Sudan. Blog posting in Egypt is being done with a cell phone connection. First let me say that I think the USA & Canada are the only places that MAKE you buy a 1---2 year contract and then charge you $50 or more a month for a cell phone. Four years ago, I purchased a used cell phone in Turkey for $30--USD. It has a chip like a camera, called a SIM card, that goes inside and gives you a local phone number and then you buy a prepaid phone card which can be purchased at most small stores. Depending where you are it is about $10--$20--USD for Sim card and another $10 for air time.
When we entered Egypt we heard of a new system for the internet. We bought a Dongle (wi-fi stick that plugs into your computer like a regular memory stick ) and a 10 foot cable. We hang the Dongle at the overhead in the saloon main hatch. It picks up anywhere you have cell phone coverage and can get you on the internet. Dongle, cable and Sim card were about $40---$50--USD. A phone card is purchased with a scratch off number sort of like a lottery card. Enter that number by sending a text to the system and within a minute you get a return text that tells you how much money you have on your account. Bingo, you are connected. The system does not go by time on the internet. How your credits are used is by how many mega-bites you use for up and down loads. Little too teckie for me but the system works great and not much money.
We are presently at anchor in Sharm Luli, Egypt with 12 rally boats. Our position is 24 36.97N 035 07.32E. The closest village is at least 50kms away. As is usual for all of Egypt, this remote place has a military presence. Actually no more than a small shack and I use that as a very accurate description of what is on the shore about 300 mtrs. away. Bonus for us, they have cell phone coverage so we can use the internet. This country may still use donkey carts for transportation but the driver will be bouncing along talking on his cell phone.
Now you know how we post in Egypt. Once in Sudan we will rely on Mirjam in New Zealand and Raja in Michigan to post for us when we feed them the info via the win-link ham radio system. Sorry to say there will be no pictures for this system is too slow to upload a photo.
Cheers from the Middle of No-where--Egypt-- middle of the Red Sea
We must add a postscript before we send the blog. Yes we are in the middle of no-where Egypt with a ramshackle military base. I had finished snorkeling with Nadeesh and Gipson and heading back to our boat when a fishing boat approached the dinghy. There are about 6 fisherman on board and one balding man wearing tan slacks and a red golf type shirt . He asked if we spoke English. His was very basic. He introduced himself as a colonel in the Egyptian army, asked our nationalities and how did we get here -- like sailed on one of the 12 boats in the harbor, do ya think? He then said "mistake. No diving." I was tempted to say " We weren't diving" but just apologized and said that I didn't know that, in the book it said we could and we were finished. He really wanted to continue to be the big fish in the small pond and tout his authority but he really couldn’t think of anything else to say. Later he went and found a man who spoke English well and went to all the boats. The mighty COLONEL wanted to know boat name, number of people on board, nationality, where we came from and where we where going. We stated we were waiting for favorable weather and winds. He wanted us to move closer together. We refused explaining about boats and anchoring. I guess seeing 12 sailboats enter the harbor is probably as much excitement as this guy has had in years. He backed off on the moving and finally indicated through the interpreter that we could go swimming from the boats but NEVER!! near the shore.
Actually we will probably be here for a few more days due to one of the boats having a broken rudder. It is a 52 foot Nauticat, 60,000 pounds. Anthony stated that they hit a reef and backed off then hitting the rudder. The other boats are staying to assist getting the rudder fixed. The captain of one boat is a professional welder with a welder on board. Dan filled the tanks and is ready to do the diving along with other boaters to get DIVANTI sailing again.
Cheers again from the MIDDLE of NO WHERE, Sharm Luli, Egypt.
This will be a short blog which hopefully we can update before we leave Sudan. Also we hope we can send some pictures. We sailed out of Egypt at last and passed into sudan. When we left Sharm Luli Egypt we sailed to Dolphin Reef, a reef off the coast known for lots of dolphins that enjoy people swimming with them. Alas, no dolphins here but fabulous bommies. A bommie is a pinnacle of coral rising from the seabed to the surface of the water or just below. Therefore sailing through the bommies means that it is done with the sun behind you, Dan at the bow,giving me directions on which way to turn. I always say that if one is not a drinker, getting through these situations will make one a user of SOMETHING!We left Dolphin Reef having enough of reef adventures for awhile having a slight thunk on our keel in leaving Sharm Luli. With great wind, we sailed just over 300 miles to another anchorage called Marsa Fijab. again sailing through the coral reefs yet the Pilot book was right on and the sun was great letting us easily see the deep and shallow water.At present we are anchored in Suakin, Sudan looking at crumbling coral buildings, hearng the donkeys bray, watching the men dressed in white robes and women TOTALLY covered in colorful flowing clothes that seem to look like yards and yards of material wrapped around them. At least we are not seeing the women totally wearing black as in Egypt. I think we will see this again in Yemen and Oman. The poverty here is incredible. Suakin has the distinction of being the last port in Africa where slaves were shipped to the United States. Slaving continued from here up until World war ll. By today, all the boats in the rally -14 in all- from 7 different countries, Holland, France, Italy, Switzerland, Germany, US, and Britian. Two boats have crew from Canada and Ireand. We leave in 5 days for Massawa, Eritrea. Egads, don't these politcal people know that we just want to get our boat closer to New Zealand. Yemen is now on the out list as so is Eritrea. We were not sure if we could even enter Eritrea because of the un embargo. We have now received official permission to sail there. Eritrea is the second poorest country in the world. We finally have had dolphins at the bow. Good luck signs. Cheers
Eritrea - the people
A short blog here to just talk about the people of this incredibly poor, physically beautiful country. Not since sailing to Cuba in 1997, have we experienced meeting people ( not all but the VAST majority) who are so unbelievably poor but are kind, polite, and seemingly honest. We were asked more than once, not for MONEY but for books in English.
There are many stories to make the point. One story is of the poor fisherman that helped with tying up the dinghies of the yachties and never asked for money. Dan bought fresh shrimp from him one day paying very little. After several days, the fisherman was able to get his courage up to ask Dan if we had an old diving mask. Indeed we had a fairly good mask that Dan bought in Belize but it never fit his face quite right when he dove. He gave the man the mask. Several days later, as the old man (heck he was probably younger than us) was helping me into the dinghy I said we were leaving in the morning and this was goodbye. He shook our hands and waved and waved as we motored out to the boat.
The pictures below hopefully tell the story. The colorful women lived on an island in a small group of huts where we visited to give them food and medicine. The old fisherman was rowing to shore with one paddle. We threw him a line from our dinghy to give him a tow to shore. With children anywhere and everywhere, explanations are never needed.
We are in Yemen at this time. In future blogs, I will attempt to fill in on some of the past adventures of the sail down the Red Sea to this country which is at the southern end of the Red Sea along the Gulf of Aden leading out into the Indian Ocean.
The rally entered the main port in Yemen, Aden. A large port harbor that is busy and dirty like all ports. The anchorage for sailboats is interesting as many boats arrive beginning the Red Sea voyage having crossed the Indian Ocean from Thailand, the Maldives, Sri Lanka, and Malaysia. A few boats, like us are venturing east and south.
The reception here for the rally was welcoming complete with a ceremony with the local dignitaries. Sailing over from Eritrea, the second poorest country in the world, we are back to the hustle and bustle of a poor middle eastern Muslim country. Back to an internet café with fair speed and the opportunity to get the Yemeni SIM card for the telephone. Generally the people are very nice. As in all countries, when you try a little of their language such as shukran (thank you), tamam (okay), etc. their reaction to you is instantly friendly. Yemen has been quite short of tourists as we all know. Many of the people are pleasantly surprised and very welcoming that we are venturing into their country which is quite beautiful with stark, rugged mountains surrounding Aden, the largest industrial, port city in the country. The women are quite covered as you can see but are very friendly and enjoy talking with you.
One of the surprises of Yemen is the countrys serious drug problem with a drug called QAT pronounced cat. It is the leaf of a tree which is chewed or masticated rather like a cow chewing its cud. The bulk of the chewed GOOP is then permanently held in the cheek. As the addiction grows so does the size of the cheek. Many men and boys are seen with their plastic bags of QAT. In the capital where many males wear the jambala, the knife in their belt, the QAT bag is hung over the hilt of the knife. Who knows, the women may be chewing it also but they are all covered up. We have seen women selling it. Red Bull and of course cigarettes abound.
Of course, I am a Muslim and I believe in Islam, Allah and Mohammad with always abstaining from alcohol. Would you like to share my bag of QAT!!, a cigarette, and a can of Red Bull?
You see men of all ages zoned out on the stuff everywhere.
But generally there is a feeling of getting on with life, work, trying to make the best of it.
We flew to the capital, Sana'a with some other cruisers, Swiss, Italian, Spanish, German, and us. Of course all know English. A very fun group of interesting people. Please note the beauty of Sana'a and some of the surrounding villages.
"Oh man", this must be Oman. "Amen", we are past the infamous, the notorious, the world's best known PIRATE ZONE in the Gulf of Aden. Excuse me, wrong religion, " al-hamdu lillah" (praise be to god).
Over 600 NM of sailing, motoring, motor-sailing in a convoy. Sailing with alot of wind, sailing with the wind on the nose, sailing with perfect wind, motoring in flat calm, we had it all. Three nights and days from Aden to the Yemen Port of Mukalla for a stop to get fuel, rest, and check out of Yemen. Then another three days and nights from Mukalla to Salalah, Oman. Alas (what an adventure that would have been) but fortunately, the convoy of rally boats did not encounter pirates. What we did encounter was as follows:
1. Anthea blew a head gasket and had to be towed by Lo, the rally coordinator on Mistral. As Anthea was being towed for over 70 miles against a strong head wind and current, its captain, Jean Claude completely installed a new head gasket. The man is amazing.
2. Storm Dodger frantically became caught in a fishing net at night requiring its captain, Roger, and Graham from another boat to don dive gear with an underwater light to clear the prop and keel.
3. At night, again, Ian on Rhumb Do informs his convoy leader, Esper, that the boat's engine room is flooded as is the saloon. I am amazed Ian is so calm relating to all that basically his boat is sinking. He and his crew, Robbie, man the MANUAL bilge pump as they deciphered the cause which turned out to be a split in the heat exchanger end cap allowing water to pump into his engine room rather than out the back of the boat.
Please remember that people are getting from boat to boat in the middle of the Gulf. Lowering dinghies, getting in and out etc. in mid ocean so to speak.
4. Cobble calls on the VHF radio. The rally is requested to use LOW power for emergency only because of the pirates. Morris on Cobble explains that he may need oil. Dan prepares a bag with 5 liters of oil. I motor sail next to Cobble and Dan tosses the bag to Killian, Cobble's crew.
lets see, shall we go on -- oh lest we forget.
5. During the day, fortunately, Full Flight, radios to his group leader, Divanty, that he has caught a fishing net. Tony dons a mask, goes over the side, and has his wife radio that rather it is a large, heavy plastic bag. Tony knows his limits in the water and is not comfortable diving under to cut the plastic from the prop. We sail over. Dan puts on mask, fins, and carrying a knife attached to a lanyard around his neck, jumps in the water, swims over as I circle Full Flight. Dan dives down two times to cut the plastic from the prop. Once finished, Dan swims out away from Full Flight, I motor-sail close to him and he grabs onto the side ladder and hoists himself back on board. Bearing down on my husband in our 36,000 pound boat to pick him up in the middle of the Gulf of Aden added only a fraction of more stress in an already somewhat stressed situation.
Should we recall that the reason we are in this convoy is because of those PIRATES that are out there somewhere.
6. Cobble catches a lobster pot. Is this getting OLD!!!!?
7. At night again, first Cobble catches another fish net and since he has erroneously sailed directly in front of Storm Dodger, poor old Storm Dodger has a go again at it. Storm Dodger catches the fish net and the two boats collide with some damage to Storm Dodger's wooden rub rail which is bolted to the topsides of the boat. Cobble damaged some stanchions ( the metal bars that hold the lifelines around the boat).
When these emergencies occur, all boats MUST stop and keep in the convoy formation or on station as the yachties say. This is all occurring in the smack dab middle of the pirate zone of course since that is why we are in the convoy in the first place. Oh I just mentioned that, Oh vay!! is all I could say and that in any language basically means "SHIT here we go again".
Finally, we make it to Mukalla. After too short a rest, Dan and I fill our diesel tank with our jury cans and then send them off in an open boat to be refilled. We also give the authorities our passports and filled out forms so we can leave the country. We are to set sail in the morning at 0600. Afternoon comes, no diesel and more importantly no passports. Evening approaches and still we wait. Lo is in contact with the agent who reports that all is coming. Lo moves the departure time to 0800. What's that "praise be to god" thing again?
2400, 12 AM we are on deck waiting. Suddenly, the captain of a new boat from India and returning to India, that joined us in Aden radios LO on the station we use as the hailing channel, 72, that his crew has packed his bags. They had an argument over the amount of fuel that was ordered and the crew was leaving the boat then and there. What could Lo suggest? I call Lo, Saint Lo.
Lo must have solved yet another problem because the crew member stayed on to here, Salalah.
The tales go on and on and am sure you are getting the drift ( pardon the pun) of the whole crazy scene. Some people had an incredible whale watching experience of sperm and pilot whales including Dan. ME!!! I was resting down below. I came up and asked why we had stopped, yet again. Dan remarked that Esper was having problems with its steering but it was okay, everyone was enjoying the whales. THANKS Dan! for getting me up. I did see a few at the very end.
We will end this blog on a delightfully heartening note. As we were motoring closer to our destination, Salalah, Oman a helicopter flew over. Green with a bubble for the gun would suggest that it indeed was military. A while later, a boat approaches from the stern. As it nears it becomes clear that it is a warship. It comes close and gives us a spectacular display of the helicopter landing on deck. All of us are curious as to what country, what country?!! The boat sails around the whole convoy giving us a feeling of security as to the assurance we are definitely on the radar. We hear on the radio many warships from all over the world talking to the different convoys of merchant ships.
Okay, the question to all is what country was the warship from that became part of our family, i.e. the rally if only for a few welcoming minutes? We will check your answers through FACEBOOK, e-mail, or the message page on the blog site. Will let you know in the next blog!
In regards to the last blog in which a few guessed what country's warship greeted us in the Gulf of Aden, the guesses included India and USA. The picture tells it all. The Maple Leaf of Canada was flying high and proud. Two people on the rally are from Canada. Debbie is originally from Ottawa, Ontario. She and her husband are crewing on the boat, Eeyore. Robbie is from Vancouver Island, British Columbia. He is crewing on the boat, Rhumb Do. He stated it was the first time he had seen his country’s flag flying in a year. Thank you, Canada, for being out there on the peace keeping mission trying to keep the corridors open for the transit of all the merchant shipping and us little guys sailing in the Indian Ocean, Arabian Sea, Sea of Oman, and elsewhere trying to avoid the pirates of Somalia.
Some of you may have heard about the British couple being held hostage by the Somalis, Paul and Rachael Chandler. They were taken shortly after we started the rally in October and are still being held hostage. The story is that there was a British warship very close to them when they were attacked. The captain of the warship contacted the British government and asked if they should intervene on the Brits behalf. They were sailing of the coast of the Seychelles actually. The British government told the warship to do nothing!!! These people have now lived in fear for their lives since October.
We are taking all the precautions we can but the stress is real as more attacks occur around us. One just happened 20 miles from where another yacht, Slamat, was sailing up the coast of Oman. They have been part of our rally and received their Indian visas when they went home to Germany at Christmas. The pirates are seeking out new areas. We are not ones to sail with a group of other boats. That has never been to our liking, however, we see no other option at this point until we reach India. The sail across to India was supposed to be a free start with people going whenever they wished and meeting up in Mumbai. That now has changed. We have 1165 miles to go!
The Sultanate of Oman is an up and coming place. New roads, building, working, all is a bustle. The people on the rally that are planning to sail to India have to wait, wait, wait for the visas to go to India. That is why we suppose that many cruisers do not visit India. What to do??!! What is the term from the movie "Animal House?" ROAD TRIP!! Away from the boat, rent a car, pack the camping gear, pack the backpacks and GO.
As we drove up through the center of the country towards Muscat, the capital, it was pretty bleak. Not pretty desert, just a huge sand box with new gas stations (lots of Shell) on a new highway. Camels roaming along the road side. Once into Muscat, the mountains start again. We are in the south, in Salalah which is quite mountainous, albeit low with little vegetation. Muscat is a spread out city. We drove to the Indian Embassy to arrange our visas. The other rally people did it in Salalah.
Next to the Indian Embassy is the US. One is NOT ALLOWED to park in front of the embassy or to stand. The gentleman on patrol was very nice about it.
We applied for our visas and after about an hour of waiting along with thousands!! okay hundred of Indians were told that all was okay and we could expect our visas around the 3rd of April. Oh vay! One of our rally friends is Maurice, the owner and captain of the boat Cobble. Maurice is 59, British passport, grew up in South Africa, graduated from the University of Rhodesia, is as white and South African accented ( trying still to hear the difference from the British) as can be. Maurice's father was in the British military and stationed with his family at the time of Maurice's birth in the area of what is now known as Pakistan. Of course on Maurice's British passport is place of birth - Pakistan. A few hours after checking into our hotel we were reveling in relaxing in Muscat, off the boat, away from hassles, looking over the charming harbor, having had a great lunch (Indian, of course) at a great price. Dan receives a call from Lo which is for Maurice. Maurice listens intently and then announces because he was born in what is now Pakistan and did we mention left (never to return) when he was 2 months old his visa will take over 40!!!!!! DAYS to be approved as it needs to sent Delhi, yadda,yadda. That puts him over into the monsoon season to sail across the Indian Ocean alone without the safety network of other boats.
The British consulate was no help. At the present time, Maurice is thinking of sailing with the rally with his crew, Killian, along the Indian coast and then skirting around to Sri Lanka. Killian, of course, has been granted a visa. All of this because of the terrorist attack a few years ago by some Pakistanis in Mumbai bombing the Taj Mahal hotel.
Okay, back to Oman and Muscat. Quite modern with Sultan Qaboos that has been ruling for over 40 years. He took over from his dad who was NOT doing a great job. Basically, he forced him out and then set about getting this small country turned around. He never married. He has the reputation of listening to the people in the country and following through on his promises of making this place better. A novel idea for a statesman, that's all I can say.
We have decided that to see the real Omani people, they are the men dressed in the white robes, the women in the black who are not seen working. The entire work force is Indian being the service people with Philipino and Indian being the labor force. We have heard that the Sultan is even trying to discourage the women from wearing the complete black covering, some face and hands included, of the orthodox Muslim faith.
Before coming to these Muslim countries I stated I would try to dress conservatively, head scarf, long sleeves and long skirt. As the weather is now approaching the 30ties Celsius (80 -90 ies F) I am saying this is insane so shorts and summer TEES it is!
The arroyos of the southwest in the Arab countries are called wadis. These gully, river beds often in the hot season like the southwest of the US are dried up and really have not much to offer in terms of scenic beauty. On the road camping trip in Oman we read in that wonderful land bible, LONELY PLANET, that the wadis coming out of the mountains just inland from the Oman Sea offer majestic cliffs with fresh water pools.
Drive until you come down a STEEP hill and off to your right you will see the river and a stand of beautiful palm trees. Pay the locals abit of money to boat you across the river to start the hike inland through Wadi Shab. When traveling and you read of places that sound like something out of a movie you get excited and hope you are not disappointed. Wadi Shab lived up to every expectation. Between the desert sandstone mountains, the beach, and the cliffs of the sea there it was. I felt like I was going into the movie set of “Raiders of the Lost Ark“. Killian and Robbie referred to the movie called the “Beach” with Leo Decaprio.
We hiked along the path occasionally passing a local or another hiker. Hiking deeper into the wadi, the fresh water pools increase and remain clear suggesting that there are springs somewhere that allow for aeration of the water. Every so often we would come across small waterfalls that would cascade down into more fresh water pools. One can imagine when the monsoons do come what the torrent of water must be like to keep these pools so deep and full. The flowers and trees growing along the way reminded me of the fertile Nile river banks.
Jumping and swimming in these pools was absolute hedonistic pleasure. Some pools wound their way through the canyon like cliffs leading to other pools. One pool ended with the rocks forming a narrow opening into the next pool. You had to go underwater for about ten feet and swim through a cave entrance into the last pool. What greeted you was a beautiful waterfall with a cave behind it into which you could swim . The top of the pool had huge boulders that covered much of it. Francesca’s stated it “looked like a cathedral.” Killian kept saying he had never seen anything so beautiful. We basically just swam around in awe.
What I am learning about all countries is that each has at least one or many jewels that I can always put in my memory bank to recall with fondness. Wadi Shab is one of Oman’s.
We hope to leave Salalah, Oman Monday, April 5. For about 300 miles we will sail northeast close to the coast in a loose convoy with the 15 boats within 2 miles of the leader. According to the grib files ( on line wx information for wind prediction) once above 19 N latitude, we should have better winds, hopefully 10 to15 knots from behind. The Indian Ocean gets narrower as you proceed north. If we sailed from here and went directly to Mumbai the distance would be about 1100 miles with the possibility of very little wind and not a good wind angle. The intended course adds about 85 miles to the total crossing with a chance of better wind. From where we leave the coast to sail east the distance to Mumbai is about 700 miles. The next blog with let you know.
Yesterday's project was service winches day. Since the poor winches had never been disassembled and properly cleaned the 2 deck winches at the mast both packed it in. Winches are supposed to be cranky. As things, including people, age they become more cranky or is it crankier? but in the case of the poor winches less cranky it is. The port winch is used constantly for such things as lifting the dink in and out of the water, down haul on the spinnaker pole, etc. Dan is nervous of doing jobs that he is not 100% sure what he is doing. Mary found a diagram for the winch but it had no directions. Actually, the diagram alone was pretty straight forward with the gears of the winch only going back together one way. Dan had the disassembly / assembly part down and a mate came over to assist with the first winch.
As usual we worked together. Mary had the, non OSHA approved, parts cleaning using gas and a tooth brush. It was a timely process and a bit messy but all went well and the winches are cranking away as they should be.
Today's project is get out the scuba hookah rig and dive to clean bottom and more importantly the prop. We need all the help we can get for the Indian Ocean crossing especially with the prospect that there may be not a lot of wind.
From cast off in Salalah to Mumbai, the sail should take about 12 to 15 days we think? Really looking forward to the crossing but NOT the convoy. As part of an excellent briefing by the British warship HMS Chatham yesterday to show pirate activity in the area the boats are feeling sailing 300 miles up and hugging the coast within close range of each other may be the prudent course to take to Mumbai------YEA!!
More as it unfolds.
Dan and Mary
We sailed into Mumbai India after 7 days, 23 hours crossing the Arabian Sea. The UK MTO service looked after the rally boat's positions almost all the way down the Red Sea, the Gulf of Aden and across the Arabian Sea. A Turkish navy ship personally contacted LO who was about a day ahead of us and stated they were aware of the Vasco Da Gama and were watching the sailboats. We either heard or saw warships from Japan, India, Turkey, Canada, US, Italy, and Britain. The officer from the HMS Chatham stated that the pirate situation from Somalia has resulted in one the best efforts for a coalition navy to work together.
We had a scare one morning when a large fishing boat changed course and came directly to us. We had heard that most attacks occur in the morning and now with the tuna season the pirates were hijacking tuna boats. This was a large tuna boat coming up our stern in the morning. They were indeed tuna fisherman wanting whatever. We were sailing very fast downwind with the main and head sail to the side (wing and wing). Dan told the boat to go and we had nothing to give them.
In Mumbai Harbor which is very open to the sea, we dragged at anchor one night hitting another boat (another blog when we are emotionally ready), lost our dinghy and 15 horse outboard in the process and quite a lot of damage to Still Dreaming with more to the other boat, have had to deal with the custom corruption in India, nervous over the weather (that's a constant), have had to say goodbye to rally friends (remember Maurice, born in what is now Pakistan) and so it goes.
On the bright side, we have passes for the Royal Bombay Yacht Club which has excellent food, showers, an air conditioned library, etc. This part of Mumbai, actually called Colaba is quite interesting in which a rally member, from England, remarked that it was similar to London but with different trees ala beautiful Banyan trees. We take each day as it comes and try to look on the bright side. As I write this blog this evening I am looking at the night skyline of Mumbai, India seeing the famous Taj Mahal Palace Hotel ( the site of the terrorist bombing less than two years ago) off our beam.
We have arrived at our final destination of this sailing journey, Cochin India, also spelled Kochin and now called Kochi. The Indians have renamed many of the cities back to the original non English names, thus Bombay becoming Mumbai. Half the people you meet still call it Bombay and half Mumbai ( pronounced mum - bye) or as one local simply says Mumbay.
Thus comes the end of this journey and another chapter in the book that I call " The Book I'll Never Write." A few friends, and I say that in earnest because you would have to be a friend who would think you have the skills to write, have suggested over the years that Dan and I should write a book. Scoffing at the idea I began to think of how many people we know that are indeed published authors. Surprisingly, at this moment I can think of 5. When I say authors, that means people who have had the determination and grit to actually write and get a book published. A twinkling of a thought starts and becomes an idea that then dwindles into another chapter of " The Book I'll Never Write."
In a previous blog I mentioned an "accident." I am still not emotionally ready to write about the " accident " but figure that it will be an enticement for people to follow the blog waiting with baited breath for the blog about the " accident." The pictures alone are amazing.
We left on the last leg of this 4,500 mile sail that originally began in Alanya Turkey. We set sail at 0630 from Mumbai headed south for Kochi for the last 580 miles. It should have been a good time to reflect on all that we have encountered during the last 7 months since leaving in October. Unfortunately, the emotional rollercoaster was over shadowed by the " accident" which led to the overwhelming sensation that we just wanted the journey to end.
The coastline of India on the western shore is very straight with fishing boats everywhere. Not too far apart down the coast where the major towns are located are rivers that empty into the sea so huge inlets are found. The water is brown from the silt and dirt of the fresh water rivers. Fishing boats, fishing boats and of course more fishing boats. Having a sailing vessel such as ours is very new to India.
There are no marinas and not even the breakwater harbors that one sees in other countries to protect the fishing boats. The boats just pull up into the river inlets and anchor. When the monsoon comes which is soon, the thunderstorms will bring the rain and the wind will shift to the southeast. The winds are not extreme during the summer monsoons, usually in the low 20ties. However, along the coast there is no protection from the build up of the waves reaching across the Indian Ocean into the Arabian Sea from the eastern coast of Africa.
The reason for the Kochi destination is for the monsoon protection. We are in a huge harbor with several islands standing out from the mainland. We are in the first ever marina built in Kochi. Actually the first ever marina in India. It is on an island called Boghatty off the main city called Ernakulam, the primary business center of Kochi. Unfortunately the people building the marina, the government basically, neglected to look out for the last umpteen years to see the size of the yachts that anchored in the river. They also neglected to contact countries in the rest of the world that have marinas to find out what to do. Not too far away is Thailand and Malaysia that are known for having some the best. They ( the government officials who took over the task of marina building) didn't look under a large sailboat to notice a keel that meant the boat required to be in a certain depth of water. Thus the marina that was meant for yachts is perfect for an inland lake in the states. However, we have managed to fit in the 13 boats from the Vasco Da Gama Rally that will be staying through the monsoon season.
Entering foreign countries in a boat, especially foreign countries where boats are NOT part of the tourist routine ranks high up in the lesson of learning patience and understanding incompetence, greed, archaic laws, and bureaucracy. You hope for the best of officials in dealing with harbor masters, port control, port police, immigration, and customs. To check into a country usually takes at least a full day often two. Then believe it or not in some countries like Egypt and India when you go from one port you have to do it all over again to check out even to go to another port in the SAME country in which you do it ALL over again to check in. The paper work is amazing. Of course you pay fees each time. The people are individuals with a incredibly bureaucratic job.
In Mumbai, the Royal Bombay Yacht Club gets into the action by assisting immigration and customs. The immigration man came to the boat with a representative from the RBYC. The fat, uniformed man of about 50 tried to act official but simply showed his incompetence. At the end he asked for “ A GIFT”. You smile and you hand over the bribe, bakeesh, graft whatever and mumble under your breath about where you would like to stick the so called “GIFT“.
Yet, as we sour on all officials, we enter Kochi. A younger customs man, late 30ties, enters the cockpit, smiles and alone completes all the necessary tasks which require filling out paper after paper, of course needing the official ship stamp on every one. I have remarked that our granddaughter, Kiera, will never know what carbon paper is for because of computers. Come to India on a boat and one realizes one can still make a fortune in the use of carbon paper. Dan then goes with the smartly white uniformed man in his launch to the offices on shore to fill out a myriad of more forms in three different buildings, 6 to7 offices. Don’t ever think of forgetting the ship’s stamp.
The gentleman ( said with utmost respect) buys Dan a tea and an Indian pastry. Dan offered to pay but no. WHAT??? There is an official out there that actually demonstrates honesty, civility, and competence. Now that we are officially checked in we have clearance to the marina. If we decide to leave the marina even for a sail we need to completely check out again. Our documentation papers were kept so that basically the boat becomes impounded at the marina.
Well we are here and I will get this off to all. We are getting the boat secure and ready so we can fly back to New Zealand and then on to the states. We have heard from people that you either love or hate India. It is huge, diverse, and full of amazing contrasts. So far I am enthralled.
Ernakulum is very busy, dirty and noisy like any big city. We take a ferry from our little island here, Boghatty, over to the city. The ferry costs 4 rupees, 8 cents. We stop and have lunch, a little over two dollars for a huge meal. We take a tuk-tuk (autoricksha), three wheeled to get anywhere for about 50 US cents in the city. As always you take the good with the not so good.
Hello from Kochi, India ----- 30 May, 2010
Still Dreaming is tied up in the new marina and adorned with her new, nicely fitting monsoon cover . The white tarpaulin cover was made locally across the river with high quality materials at, for us, an unbelievable low cost--- total $400 USD. We think that in the states the job would be about 10 times that figure. The test for the top came last night when it rained and all our gear sitting on deck remained DRY. YEA !!
Yesterday was spent packing for the flight to NZ. It took all day. We have a baggage limit of 132#----60kg on this flight. After careful packing, according to my scales we have 131#. We shall see if the airline scales are the same as ours. Our flight is at 0420 on Emirates Air. We have flown with them before and can highly recommend this airline. Will be a short night as we have to arrange for a taxi pick up about 0100 to get us to the airport on time.
I can not wait to see temperatures under 30C (85F). I, Dan, very much look forward to putting on a flannel shirt, jeans, and gum boots. When talking to Mirjam, a friend in New Zealand, through Skype I inquired about temps now in NZ. New Zealand is now approaching the winter months, July being the coldest, we will soon experience a huge plunge in degrees.
The humidity should stay around the same, as winter in NZ is the rainy time of year. Night temps here are about 30C---- NZ it will be about 8C ( 45 to 50). That is fine----I can not express how much I want to get HOME !!!
Let the new down under adventure begin.
Cheers mates,
Dan
With all the preparation to return to New Zealand, we finally were able to make the plane with a fanfare even to the end. We hired a car to take us to the airport, leaving the marina at approximately 1230 AM to arrive at the Kochi airport at 0130 to get a 0400 AM flight to Dubai. The monsoon has started and amidst rain and wind we are flying through the downtown streets of Kochi. Ohoh, traffic jam once on the expressway.
Our driver relates after talking to a police officer that a large expressway sign has fallen onto the main road blocking ALL lanes. A bit of worry crosses our faces but NOT the driver. He pulls off the road to the shoulder and whips around motorcycles and other shoulder driving vehicles like trucks and makes it to a side road that is unpaved. We then are in for the terrific carnival ride zipping around corners of one way lanes of which one cannot see ahead because of houses, trees, other foliage and walls. Thank god it is practically the middle of the night. Once in awhile he races down a road to realize it is a dead end, back we go and take another route. When ever we do see another person he stops them to ask directions. Suddenly a main road appears in front of us and WALLA - we are back on the highway beyond the traffic jam. With a broad smile on his face, our driver pulled to the drop-off point at 1340, only ten minutes behind schedule. As we tipped him generously, I remarked that this should be his route for all his customers and at the same speed. What a great way to say good bye to India.
We are planning to return the end of November to travel through India for a few months and then sail east toward Sri Lanka, the Andaman Islands, Thailand and points east.
To the land home in NZ, we have returned. When we walked in the door we had an eerie sense that we had been away for two weeks rather than two years. The plants are flourishing in the garden but unfortunately so is the gorse on the hillside. Gorse is an extremely thorny bush from Great Britain used often as hedge rows for the animals. Unfortunately in NZ there is no way to keep the stuff at bay so it is taking over. It chokes out the native bush so for Dan it is WAR!!
Friends ( Dan refers to them as our Swiss kids) Andy and Mirjim met us at the airport. After spending a few days with them at their beautiful home near Auckland, they drove us home to Swantlein Down Under. For those of you who have not heard the name of our NZ home the story is as follows.
When we purchased the property 5 years ago, Andy and Mirjam came to see it. Mirjam excitedly claimed it looked like Swantlein but down under. Swantlein is the name of Andy's sister's home in Switzerland, a place we absolutely love. Indeed, the land had that type to feeling - views over the valleys and forested hills, peaceful and no neighbors to be seen. So Swantlein DU it became.
The projects are many. We connected with friends, Sigga and Olaf, Florian, Lili, 8 year old Reagan (who had a chance to talk to our granddaughter in Florida, Kiera via webcam and Skype), and Robin and Glenis. Time for great hikes, tramps as Kiwis say, drive to the magnificent shore of the Tasman to see a HUGE!!!!!! male seal sleeping up on a soft grassy spot next to the trail/road leading to the beach, a great drive through the forested hills to the Pacific shore only two hours away, and among it all finally going for delicious fish and chips at the Kaihu Tavern.
It is great to be home but as always family and friends in far away places are missed. Thanks to Andy, the IT genius pro, and the continuing wonders of communication technology, we have a WIFI box at the house allowing us to have not only WI FI but high speed internet access. Guess some things HAVE indeed changed over the past two years.
When we were in Kochi, India we were approached by a man, who with his crew, was doing interviews with all the boat owners from the Vasco da Gama Yacht Rally. He asked if he could interview us about our boating experiences and especially what we thought of India. He was producing a show about boating in India. He did not have a great deal of cruising yachts to pick from since the rally boats in the marina, all 13 of us, comprised 90% of the entire cruising yachts in the whole country . Two Indian owned boats were in the marina and all the rest were the rally participants.
If you are interested you can view the interview aboard Still Dreaming at the following site. http://www.video.marinebiztv.com/videos.php?video=NDY1Mg==&b=&key=allprograms
We don't know what they selected for the program but we were kindly sent the whole interview.
We will try to get the address to view other rally boats and post them at a later time.
Thank you Jean-Claude for sending us our interview.
We haven't blogged in awhile. Am sending out a quick one to say we are loving life here in NZ. Still Dreaming is doing well in the water at the marina in Kochi India.
We now have our NZ driver's licenses. NZ transferred our US licenses with no tests. Are they brave or what - left hand drive, a zillion round about, one way bridges etc. ?
Good friends, more house projects than any sane people could imagine, good tramps in the woods, enjoying the indoors when it pours and outdoors enjoying the incredible sky and sun.
Check out the px below. Our wonderful friends and family from Michigan, Wisconsin, Canada, Alaska, etc. may agree with us when we ask " THIS IS WINTER?" August here is compared to April in US.
A short blog to say all is well in NZ. The neighboring farms have little lambs and calves everywhere so that must mean that spring and summer are not too far away. Unfortunately, the wool industry is very unprofitable so the little ones are being raised for the mutton. Andy and Mirjim came up from Auckland so our internet gets some fine tuning. Neighbors, Sigga and Olaf, are celebrating their birthdays. We are frantically working on house projects to have Swantlein more presentable when guests arrive in a month from Australia and the US.
A quick entry to give an NZ update. Mary has received full certification from the New Zealand Speech Therapy Association to work in NZ. A hurdle jumped! Mary has received a job offer to work in New Zealand. A hoop leaped through. An agent has begun the paperwork for residency status. Running toward the goal. Mary has applied to the New Zealand Work Qualifications group. A costly race indeed.
If process does through, a major change in life for a few years. So like nothing new! Okay about the pictures below. I am working on a Kauri table which will be the dining room table. Should look nice. The boar hanging from the tree is not RED NECK USA, it is RED LEG New Zealand. I say, leg because so many farming NZ men DO NOT wear long pants all year long. Usually, a jacket, gum boots, and shorts no matter the temp or weather conditions. Okay, there was a boar hunt with awards presented by a local tavern. The Kiwis cannot totally be blamed for this because one of the owners of the Tavern is from Texas. Go figure. Anyway, a group of men including Hayden (lives with his mum in the cottage) went pig hunting using about 5 dogs. The dogs corner the boar and one of the lucky blokes gets to go and cut its throat.
The boar weighed in at dressed weight 70 kg, 150 lbs. The group received second place in which the winning boar outweighed this one by about 30 lbs. They caught it about 5 k, 3 miles from where we live. Prize money was $ 300.00 so at least paid for beer money.
NZ allows all year hunting except for ducks. All exotic mammals and plants are pests introduced by the Maori, Europeans or Australians. People in the Great Lakes can truly appreciate the devastation it can cause ala Zebra Mussles and Lamprey eels.
Dan finally finished the ceiling in the house. YEAH!
It has been awhile since a blog has been written. Life in New Zealand has been exciting, busy, crazy, relaxing, exasperating, and in plain truth just the way we like it.
Work issues: Mary has NZ professional certification as well as an International NZ Assessment that verified her professional qualifications and training, etc. etc. There has been a job offer so it all depends on if NZ will issue a work permit. Papers have been filed. The wait continues.
We went on vacation when our friend, Mary Abbott, visited from Royal Oak Michigan. We were so thankful that she came and gave us a chance to visit the top of North Island NZ and share some of our favorite places and visit new ones.
While Mary was here, our dear, wonderful, generous, thoughtful friends, Andy and Mirjim, presented us with three gifts named Larry, Moe, and Curly. Chickens! live and ready to take over the place as they have always lived as free range. We didn't mind. Neither did Tina, Hayden, Bella the dog, and even Spitz the cat. It was not until they took over Dan's tool shed to lay their eggs and deposit their poo. Bella discovered she loved the taste of fresh eggs. So the chicken pen project became priority. Larry, Moe and Curly now have a flash house and pen. The free eggs that come with the free chickens will cost about $ 1.00 per egg for the next 6 months to pay for the pen and house not counting the food. What fun! We love them. In NZ they are called CHOOKS.
Besides visiting the forests, going on great tramps (hikes), seeing fabulous beaches, we did a little caving, saw some NZ movies at home, visited friends and of course the local pub. Mary is now back in Royal Oak getting ready for the Michigan winter as we are warming here with summer approaching.
Went musseling at the beach with Hayden and friends Sigga and Olaf. At low tide we walked out onto the rocks and collected our 50 per person. The law is 50 mussels per person per tide. That is one **&^(*& big bucket of mussels. We cleaned and steamed the mussels and then ate a great pasta dinner with mussels cooked in wine and added to a seasoned white sauce.
Still Dreaming is fine albeit lonely for us. She is in the water in a marina in Kochi, India. As we say, all is "good as gold ." We always try to live with the Kiwi mantra of "no worries, Mate." To get a flair for the Kiwi humor and check out the ads for NZ Airlines with Rico. Also the ad which has comments about the airlines from the people working on the plane. One must look closely to see how the people are attired. Body art is a big thing here.
Dan is off hunting with Hayden and his father, Ward. Am not quite sure what they are hunting for but hopefully nothing is shot that I will feel obliged to cook and then heaven forbid eat.
We have added three more chickens not to the pot but to the chicken pen where they are happily adjusting to life with the three stooges. We get about three to four eggs a day which is great for us, Tina, Hayden and neighbors that stop by. The new crew is named by Dan, who else, as the Mongrel Mob. The Mongrel Mob is the name of a gang of Maoris in NZ that is totally justified. However, for our new three chickens it is not. They are tame, loving and sweet. They are however the colors of the Mongrel Mob, black and red.
We had a great weekend on the island of Waiheke. The home is owned by the son and daughter-in-law of friends and neighbors, Sigga and Olaf. Waiheke, off the coast of Auckland, once consisted of Hippies and those artsy,fartsy Bohemian types when the land was cheap in the 60 and 70 ties. Then the money is no object, buy that land and build that house, type came. The groups seem to live peacefully. We wanted to see it before the summer tourists added to the mix.
For those that know and I hope love me, they will say that there is not a green thumb in any of my genetic make up. However, one might get an A for effort. We have baby tomatoes ( still get laughs with our pronunciation) and baby grapes on the vines. Also planted fennel, parsley, bay leaves, basil and a few things I can't pronounce the name of but am told are edible. The mint and rosemary grow like weeds here but do enjoy the tea and spice. So far, Bella, the dog and Spitfire, Spitz, the cat are helping to keep the rabbits at bay which strive to eat all edible garden plants before we can.
The weather is warming into the 70f - 20c ties. Once in awhile a Christmas ad is shown on TV. Think there will be a Christmas parade in December. Nothing, nothing like the US. Everything always seems to be in moderation here except maybe for the consumption of alcohol. The Christmas, New Year holiday is the main vacation time for people due to it occurring in summer. So the atmosphere is not buy, buy, but - let’s go play!
Hear Dan returning. Seem to prefer the sailor home from the sea than the hunter home from the hill. Speaking of sea. Still Dreaming is doing okay in India. Plans are to return in March and sail east to Malaysia.
We are still in limbo regarding visa status in NZ. The wait continues. When that is known the next blog will be written, hopefully with tears of joy not sorrow.
Wait! Wait - Dan here-----Yes the hunt was successful. First, even if we would not have bagged anything it would have been successful. As Hayden, his father, Wade, and I drove from our home climbing into the Tutumoe mountains, that we can see out our windows daily, the views were most spectacular. Mary and I view the sights with awe and our Kiwi friends just take them for granted.
We were hunting wild goats that are considered a pest animal, as are the deer, thus the hunting season is always year round. Must say that it is the first time I went hunting in late November and really broke a sweat. It is VERY hilly country & the bush (forest) is very dense. You stalk, which actually means quite a bit of running, to get close enough for a shot. They use small caliber 22 & 222 rifles.
Bottom line, Mary would have really enjoyed the tramping in the bush and breathtaking sights from the top of the mountains looking down on the river snaking below. Wade said she is welcome another time, we shall see if she goes.
Now, using the internet, I found a good Jamaican goat stew recipe. Success can be measured out of the crock pot, slow cooker, shortly.
Cheers to all.
Two issues have kept us awake at night. The work visa that I applied for and our boat, Still Dreaming. Wednesday afternoon, after about three months of waiting, we received the e-mail from our immigration agent that indeed I have the work visa. For the next two years, while employed I have multiple entry to NZ. Now that I have my work visa Dan is able to apply for one also. I will be starting soon working at the Blomfield School in Whangarei. The speech therapy position will be similar to what I have done for most of my career, diagnosing and implementing communication programs for young people with severe disabilities. The goal of this entire endeavor is that we are able to get residency eventually. We are then able to go and come as we please.
Still Dreaming left Kochi India with its crew of three enroute for the Maldives. Now that Nelson, the captain has been able to dive and see the hull we know that there is further damage caused by the accident in Mumbai. The plan is now to make repairs as best he can and Still Dreaming will be sailed to Malaysia or Thailand for haul out. Okay lets gets away from the woes. Who needs to hear all this stuff anyway?
New Zealand in the summer. Lovely! We have been working on the house. The kitchen is progressing. We are planning to put in wood floors. Short diversion here, a friend tells Dan about available wood owned by a gentleman just having finished a 7 year project of building a catamaran sailboat. The quonset hut structure which housed the boat had all hardwood floors. Dan looked at the wood, paid the man and picked up the wood with a borrowed trailer. The trailer is owned and used by Robin, owner of Kaihu Motors, for hauling cars to the shop for repairs. It usually is in the back paddock for weeks on end. Dan borrows it for the day and naturally Robin gets a call of a broken down vehicle to be hauled. The vehicle is the postal truck owned and operated by our post person, Peter. Like ya need the postal truck to get towed and repaired pronto. No trailer. Dan drives about 150 miles, very winding hilly roads and picks up the wood. Drives home, all is good until he tries to drive up the steep driveway. The trailer and car almost end up in the ditch. He goes to Robin and with a strong jeep with winch the car/trailer/wood are hauled up the driveway. It took Dan as long to go the last 200 meters as it did to drive two hundred plus miles.
Wood is here. We have a borrowed planer, thicknesser as it is called here. Dan bought a bunch of tools i.e. router for tongue and groove flooring, router table, doweling jig. This DIY stuff is costly to say the least. Am sure in the end it will pay off if one does not include the labor.
The snails are attacking the garden so have snail bait traps everywhere. Bella, the dog, has again eaten rat poison so another trip to the vet. No we do not feed this to the dog. It was in a pail hanging in the wood shed and the handle broke. “Hoover” is the name for a vacuum cleaner in England, OZ, and NZ. Thus our Bella has been renamed by Dan. He simply says “she sucks it up like a Hoover.”
Oh sad news for Michiganders. I have always been proud that Michigan has the absolute best sweet corn to be found anywhere. Another reason to be in NZ. The sweet corn is incredible. No butter needed.
That’s a short catch up from this end of the globe.
Thank you all for your concerns expressed regarding the devastating earthquake that hit in the South Island basically destroying the major city of Christchurch and the surrounding area.
First, we are fine. For those in Michigan, it would be comparable to us living in Detroit and the quake happening in Atlanta, Georgia. We live on the Tasman Sea (west) side of what is called Northland of the North Island. The quake happened on the South Island on the Pacific Coast in the southern part. The distance is about 800 miles, 1350 KMS. south of our home in Kaihu, New Zealand.
Now knowing that we are fine, the quake is the worst disaster that has hit this small island country. The beauty of NZ is that it came from volcanoes, thus the mountains and the fertile soil from the volcanic rocks. As with many volcanic areas, the earth underneath is question mark of activity.
Christchurch is the largest city in the South Island and the major business center, largest airport etc. What Auckland is to the North Island, Christchurch is to the South Island. Aside from the deaths what Kiwis are mourning is the loss of a city with major architectural heritage. Christchurch is an old city for this young country. To NZ, this is the Katrina and World Trade Center combined. Very sad.
Another sad note is that the Somali pirates have murdered 4 American yachties off the coast of Oman. Even though Dan and I are not group (rally) sailors now in hindsight we did the right thing. Am so happy that part of the sailing journey is behind us. Adventure for sure! With the current situation with Egypt, Yemen, and now the murder of Americans on their yacht am glad we made it through with just the memories such as the Eritrean Navy telling us to leave an anchorage at gunpoint.
I am working two days a week, but have already gone in on the off days for meetings, etc. Eventually I will be up to 4 days. The work visa leading to residency indicates that I must be working 30 hours a week for two years. Dan is now waiting for his work visa.
Still Dreaming is presently in Sri Lanka eventually heading for Thailand. When Dan is able to receive his work visa with multiple entries he will fly there and tend to boat business. He should also have the chance to meet up with good friends made on the rally who are now in Thailand.
All is well downunder. Except, that maybe the wonderful steep driveway we thought was so New Zealandish is becoming the bane of our Kiwi existence. After years of putting on more gravel (metal as they call it here) and digging troughs for the rain water to drain into the bush, we said enough. With winter coming which means rain!!!!!! we decided to pave part of the driveway. The pix tell the tale. With the cement man coming to see the driveway, he tells Dan how to do it and it will be NO PROBLEMO for the truck to drive up the side straddling the boxes. Alas, for the driver of over 30 yearrs with never such a mishap, making it up OUR driveway was to be his folly. The truck went into the ditch along with taking out some of the hard toiled made boxing along the way. The decision was to pave at the bottom, wait til it dries, get a smaller truck (DA!!!!) and come another day.
To catch up, Still Dreaming is in Malaysia. I am working 3 days a week. EXHAUSTED!!!! When Dan receives his passport with his multiple entry work visa he is off to Still Dreaming to see about repairs. When I am on my term break in April, I am off to Florida to see J and K. Hope we have a driveway by then.
Winter in northern NZ.
A quick update to all who are enjoying the summer months north of the equator as we get through the winter in NZ. Byron, a good friend who helped sail Still Dreaming from India to Malaysia, is with us. In a few weeks, when I have a two week holiday, we will drive to Wellington and leave Byron with our friend, Cillian. Byron will look for work and then see the sights of NZ as the weather warms.
Alas for the poor guy we have put him to work as the pictures will reflect. However, all work and no play doesn't keep anyone happy so we try to leave time for fun with friends.
I am working three days a week which will soon go to four as we continue to meet the requirements for New Zealand residency.
Vacation at last. With me recovering from respiratory just plain yucky stuff, the three of us (Byron too) took our time driving to Wellington to see our friend, Cillian. The pictures below show some of the snow that decided to fall along the way. Our first time seeing snow like this in the middle of July! Enjoying the contrasts in this country is in part what makes traveling fun. From a BACK-PACKERS nice semi tropical patio to within a matter of minutes a ski resort. Due to extremely high winds, the ski lifts were stopped. Fun to see families just playing in the snow. From a pristine Pacific beach, again within a matter of minutes, into the snowy mountains and then back again along the green forested roads. The snow laden pine trees reminded me of northern Michigan.
Okay, can’t resist one story. Byron stayed in Wellington. On our way north, Dan and I decided to stop and see friends, Andy and Mirjam, who were in the town of Hastings on the east coast doing an IT NETWORLD upgrade for one of their customers. In the morning, driving north we see a sign indicating that roads 5 and 2 were closed. Okay, really NZ is a first world country, North Island being much more populated than South Island. We are leaving one of the larger cities in North Island. Roads 5 and 2 are the only, must repeat, only roads going north from where we are. Maybe, by the time we get to these roads they will be open. First, road 5, still closed due to snow in the mountains. We drive another 100 KM north along the Pacific Coast thinking Road 2 will be open by the time we get there. No go, road 2 closed to SLIPS (land slides). We stay in the little town on Wairoa. In speaking with Mirjam, she informs us that this little picturesque town along a river by the Pacific Ocean is none other than the center for the Mongrel Mob ( the most notorious gang in all of NZ, the equivalent of the US Hell‘s Angels).
Next morning, up to ROAD 2, still closed! Back track 100 K to Road 5 which NOW is open. Once again we are reminded that this beautiful small island country with a population of 4 million is JUST that -
Once home in the north, we are having temps during the day of around 14/15 C - high 50ties,low 60ties. The daffodils are blooming. I start work on Monday, Dan is projecting building an enclosure for the washing machine with a pantry, friends coming to dinner tonight, possibly a hike tomorrow, life in NZ is quite nice.
Weather has been rainy for most of the school holiday. We decided to chance it as the holiday comes to an end shortly. We headed about three hours north of us for two days of resting, hiking, and seeing the sights.
Earlier in the week we said goodbye to Byron as he is setting off for his New Zealand adventure. We also said goodbye to our renter, Tina, who has been with us for about three years. Also goes Hayden, her son, Bella, the dog, and Spitz (Spitfire) the cat. Tina bought a home in Whangarei to be closer to her grand daughter. The new renters have now moved in, Creg and Glynis with their dog Maddie and two cats.
We had a beautiful walk on the beach watching the surfers. Giving surfing a try is on MY list. Friends, Mirjim and Andy, have taken up kite surfing! On my list is to WATCH them kite surf. We went on our hike. I completed only a portion of it as I am getting over an illness. What a joy to see this beautiful country and to be able to do it with no one around!
One story before I go -- the area that we were going to hike is definitely local knowledge. Dan has done the hike before with our hiking group. Our car is parked by the water in the bay close to some Maori homes. We were somewhat concerned whether the car would have wheels when we returned let alone our gear locked inside. As we were returing from the hike, we saw some Maori people in a boat checking nets in the bay. Back at the car, as we were cleaning our boots, eating fruit, the car with boat on trailor behind stopped with about 5 Maori people inside. I was ready to have someone say do you know you are on Maori land, etc,etc. One gentleman asks how we are and we say good. The next question is " Do you want some fish?" "Sure, how much?" "NO money, nothing, just enjoy brother."
As the picture relates the fresh flounder absolutely delicious and once again the lesson learned: to take each person as they come, try to see the good, and live life to the fullest.
16 Jan 2012
Still Dreaming Adventure / Miss-Adventure
Back to the boat.
Let me start off this blog entry with a couple of comments that may or may not be pertinent to the quality content of this story. It is written by Dan, Mary is about 12,000 miles away in Michigan visiting our Daughter Jenny & Granddaughter Hatti. Mary is the one with the University Degree with a minor in English. If I write she edits which is not the case with the following. The other comment is that, as most of you know, we are very close and do not do well when apart. A mate the other day said that we were practically joined at the hip. Being the incurable romantic, which I am proud of, I choose to think we are joined at the heart. After over 30 years together that is a good thing. Again my opinion. Enough on with the blog.
Mary left to go for the visit to Michigan on 24 Dec. 2011. I wished her a good trip at the Auckland NZ airport.
I have house projects and boat boarding ladders to build that keeps me quite busy. Skype chats will have to do for now.
Mary will start her school year on Feb 1st. Remember, southern hemisphere start of school is after summer break. She will be staying aboard
We-Be-Gone , our Swiss Kids Andy and Mirjam’s sailboat in town basin Whangarei so she does not have to commute 90km one way each day. The boat is not at a dock. There was no space available so the boat has a 4-way tie to piles but is only about 7-8 meters away. I transport our fiberglass dinghy to the basin and rig up a line between boat and dock so she can pull herself back and forth without oars. The new ladder fit perfectly so she is all set once she returns on 24 Jan 2012.
I have been dealing for several months getting a replacement engine and a project manager to supervise all the repairs in Langkawi, Malaysia. At this point I have spent thousands of dollars and have nothing to show for it but a lot of e-mails and a couple of calls to Nick, which is the guy who will supervise all the necessary repairs to Still Dreaming.
My nerves will not let me just continue with mail and calls I MUST go and see with my own eyes and actually meet this Nick.
Thus the journey begins---- back to Still Dreaming-- Adventure or
Miss-Adventure time will tell.
My flight is booked for Friday the 13th ( I will not think about the bad karma of that date) and I spend a couple of days with Andy & Mirjam at their home in Beach Haven on the north shore of the Auckland area before I fly out.
My flight is at 1130 and with instructions to check in about 2 hours early we make the decision for me to catch the ferry. Easy 10 min ride and the airport transport bus leaves every 15 minutes from the ferry landing area. My travel bags consist of a huge dry bag with shoulder straps, like a military duffel bag, and my computer backpack. 90% of the bag is made up of 3 flat foam fenders for the boat. Fenders are crazy cost in Malaysia. No need for a lot of clothes. I am going to work on the boat and at 6 degrees North Latitude it will always be bloody hot.
Andy and Mirjam being real computer mates talk me into doing web check in for the Auckland airport. GOOD idea! The Q for regular check in has about 100 people standing in line. Web check-in 2. Love this system already.
I have already selected a isle seat in the back of the plane on the 11 ½ hour flight from Auckland to Singapore. This row has only 3 seats. I learn from a previous Asian lady that stole two seats beside me and slept curled up while I was locked into my designated seat. New game plan, I plunk myself in the middle seat and hope no one has selected either of the two available seats. Success, no one was in my row so I took command of all three seats and after the takeoff I lay down for a snooze.
It was a long flight but not bad. Since it was on Jet Star Asia which is a low cost airlines they provide nothing. No worries, my Tupperware box is full of leftover pizza that I made the day before for the flight.
A short layover of 2 hours in Singapore and I catch the one hour flight to Kuala Lumpour, Malaysia. Since I arrived at 2030, actually about 2130 with flight delays and holding patterns, I have booked a room at a nearby Inn. No worries they said they have a airport shuttle to the Inn every 30 minutes. Well, after waiting for about 20 minutes not really knowing what shuttle to look for I splurge and get a taxi. I am dragging for it is 0300 NZ /
Dan’s body time. When I get to the Inn I just want to get to bed. The shuttle that I just missed has dropped off a bus load of people and they have ONE guy checking everyone in. This place is HUGE and all on ground level. They have 540 rooms. Yea I get # 524. Long walk to the room but at least I can sleep in for my flight tomorrow is not till 1230.
I get to bed about 0400 NZ time which translates into about 20 hours travel time from Auckland ferry to Inn in Kuala Lumpur.
Next morning since there is a 5 hour time difference from NZ my body wants to wake up at about 0200 local time. I toss and turn and nap till about 0600 then shower and head for the FREE breakfast. Well, I am expecting the usual coffee and donut or maybe a bit of fruit. No way they have a spread with everything imaginable. It looks like and all you can eat place in the USA. I pig out knowing this will be the last time I enjoy air conditioning and multiple cups of coffee for quite some time.
Next day I take the free shuttle to the International Airport which I flew into. Just because the airport codes are the exact same, I am in the wrong airport. OK, I will have to say that this happened once before and I am not always a fast learner. I choose to look at it as the less costly way to get to the LCCT. That is what I am told when I ask where Air Asia check in is located. The LCCT stands for low cost carrier terminal. There are signs to the LCCT and I get a bus for the equivalent of 80 cents US verses about 12--15 with a taxi. See I didn’t screw up I was just saving money----YEA.
When I check in I ask the clerk why my airport code says I fly out of the International Airport? Her reply is something to the effect all locals know that domestic flights fly from the LCCT. Hey I have local knowledge now and rest assured I will not screw this up a third time.
The Air Asia flight was fast and I am back to Langkawi in less than an hour. I remember this part and get a taxi to the boat moored at the Royal Langkawi Yacht Club. The 20 minute taxi ride is about 18km for about $11 USD and I am back once again.
I have been away 7 months and Still Dreaming looks like I just left last week. That is a good thing. Tomorrow the priority is to get my Malaysian phone working and a new chip for the dongle so I can access the internet and Skype MARY!!!!
Easy peezie as they say, I get the phone back on line for 3 months for a whopping cost of $12 USD.
I get back to the boat and the YC wi-fi is working so I send Nick my new number. When will I actually meet this mystery man that has so much of my money and ALL of my hopes?
Answers to follow-----stay tuned
Dan
Yes, Nick answered my mail and called promptly. We had a very nice, reassuring chat the next day. My nerves are a bit soothed.
We have been waiting for weeks to get a date to pull Still Dreaming so repair work could start. Nick said I had brought him luck for they would pull us on Thursday 19 Jan 2012. Was it luck or a kick in the pants once I was on scene? Not sure, but I always feel better when progress is being made.
The engine was out of commission so SD had to be towed from the Royal Langkawi Yacht Club to the work yard which was about 4-5 miles across the bay. A typical Malaysian work craft was summonsed with a 200 HP outboard for the short tow. We made it across in 1 hour 20 minutes and tied up to a very rusty Malaysian tuna boat for the night.
Next day we were to be lifted via a crane. This is a new one for me but just cross fingers everything goes well. Apart from the fact that the local workforce can not tell time, as the 1330 pull time slipped to about 1730. A big cat had to go in first so I could take his spot on the hard. All went well and I am now high and dry.
The bottom had some growth but not really bad since the boat had been in the water for about 27 months.
Work will start tomorrow and the story will be continued.
Cheers,
Dan
Friday, 20 Jan. 2012
Still Dreaming is now in the work yard. Malaysia is a predominately Muslim country. Thus Friday is the same as Sunday in a Christian country.
I awake to grey skies and a light rain. Great, working in the rain is always more fun. I will choose to look on the optimistic side, as I usually do. It is cooler, about 26C, and actually the rain does not raise the humidity level. 100% humidity is about normal in this area of the world.
Nick and couple of workers did show up around 0930. The large barnacle clusters on the hull, prop & shaft were removed while they were still moist and alive. If you wait to remove them later the damn things almost turn to well adhered concrete. The hull damage to the trailing end of the keel, caused in the accident in Mumbai, turned out to be much less of a problem than I or Nick thought it was going to be. Hey, I will take all the good news that I can get on this project.
The cockpit floor in Still Dreaming is removable which is wonderful for the easy removal of the old engine. Just remove 32 stainless bolts and pry up the caulking seal and you have total access from above. Nick is supervising his workers closely. Yes, it is a bit un-nerving when you have to tell a worker to turn a socket wrench the other way for OUT. As Nick and I both inform him at the same time. They are without a couple of large deep-dish sockets but I have them. 28mm is not a normal size, but is required for the engine mounts to be removed.
Work stops just before noon so we shall trudge forward tomorrow.
It is still drizzling outside so I might as well take my Friday / Sunday off and watch a few episodes of Bones. Love that program and I just have a few that I have not seen.
Cheers
Sat. 21 Jan 2012
The workers turn up to SD at the usual time of about 0930 & start un-bolting all engine hold down points to get ready to pull the engine.
The boat is sitting where the crane sat me down. Bow overhanging the water and stern to the yard supported with metal jack-stands. The yard workers from the boat storage area where SD will be moved to shortly bring out the electric power-washer to blast the bottom clean. We are well over 100 meters from their work shed where the power comes from, but blasting starts.
Nick has offered to take me to town, about 10 minute motor bike ride away so I can get some food. I have been pretty much living on minute noodles, tuna & of course the everywhere drink instant Nescafe coffee. At least the quality, if I could call it that, is the same world wide. A few tins of tuna-spread, beans, loaf of bread & Nescafe, so I should be good for several days. Stop off for a quick fish sandwich at Mary Browns. The equivalent in Asia of
KFC/McDonalds. Rest assured, the have plenty of these name brand fast food joints in every country that we have visited Murphy’s law kicks in and we get rained on on the ride back.
When we return the boat has only been blasted a few feet on the port side. I learn later that night that the washer kept tripping the breakers because of the very long power line. Malaysian workers just keep putting the breaker back on and it starts a hell of a fire in the shed. Lucky it is tin so everything does not go up in flames but the wires are complete melt down. The owner, Berry takes it all in stride and does not even act upset. His problem, not mine. I have enough on my plate to worry about with SD.
Since SD is stern toward the work area she must be lifted by the travel lift coming on from the behind, which is a first. We have to remove the backstay so the lift can get to where it is necessary. Again the optimist, we had to remove the stay anyway when we pull the mast in a couple of days. Wind generator pole must also be lowered. This unit has not worked since a squall off of Cypress put it out of commission so it most likely will go in the bin. I have to admit that SD just barely fits into this lift and I mention to Ryan, the owners son and lift operator, that my stations were bent badly years earlier by a lift about this same size. He says nothing but I learn later because of this statement he lengthens the straps by about a meter and the boat is lifted without incident. Move is made to the work area and the rest of the bottom is blasted and looks pretty good. I am left hanging in the slings for the night.
Time to drink a few cold ones with the management and swap sailing lies. Life is good, except for the fact Mary is not with me.
Sunday 22 Jan. 2012
I awake just before sunrise and roll over looking for something in the dark my hand comes up wet. A smell instantly tells me diesel is leaking. SHIT---I get a light on and find that the worker that took the diesel line off the engine did not tie it up properly so diesel has been dribbling out for I know not how long. After securing the line to stop the leak, I will have to check this out when it gets light.
I sooth the rough start of the day by Skyping Mary in Michigan. That ALWAYS makes me feel better!
A quick rundown on the days activities & let me just say is sounds a whole lot easier than it actually was. That sentence did not even require buckets of sweat like the deck work did.
Since we are a cruising boat we have a lot of stuff on the deck that must be off-loaded. The pile grows on the ground in front of the boat. Two kayaks, 2 spinnaker poles, 1 whisker pole, half a dozen fenders, monsoon cover and PVC supports. Remove the main sail cover and remove and mainsail from the mast and boom.
Shit, look at that black cloud lets get this sail folded before it gets rained on. Actually, with the help of one of Nick’s workers, the main folded up nicely & is taken below. The threat of rain was just a motivational factor for us to hurry, it worked.
Now remove the heavy boom and with ropes lower it to the ground, a three person operation, and add it to the pile.
Time for workers to leave and I can tidy up the lines on deck later.
Evening time and it starts to cool off so I head to the shower stall for a nice COLD shower. Since it is always hot here, a cool shower is most welcoming. Done for the day.
O---I almost forgot----diesel in the bilge---how much? In liters I can not say. In Dan’s terms, a SHIT LOAD, that’s how much! Nick will have to get a pump, next week, to get it pumped out.
Next two days LOCK DOWN.
Later mates,
Dan
23--26 Jan 2012
Chinese new year is here. Go figure, Malaysia is a Muslim country, for the most part. Guess it is a good excuse to take time off of your job.
For me it means LOCK DOWN on Monday and Tuesday. I am in the port facilities and they shut down along with most businesses in Langkawi. No worries I just keep puttering away at boat tidy projects. Time does pass quickly and the days sort of melt one into another. Skype keeps me connected with Mary and others so it is not so bad.
Wed. 25th Nick and company remove the prop & drive shaft. This required dismantling some cabinetry in the aft cabin, but they know what they are doing and seem to do a good job of it. Shaft needs a bit of repair but Nick knows where it can be repaired instead of buying a new one. Whew, that sounds like a bit less Ringgits out of my pocket. The guys are also glassing the boat to keel joint to prevent water ingress into the bilge area.
I remove the damaged wind generator along with the tower and pitch it to the bin. Next is loosen up all the rigging screws that secure the mast to the deck in preparation for the mast to be pulled from the boat. Remove lines and mark where they came from so I can put them back at a later date. Digital camera is used to show exactly how I had things rigged.
Thursday 26th--- Big happening today for me was to open up the shipping box with my new Beta 60 engine enclosed.
Nick and crew are pressing on with the glassing of keel . All wires that will stay attached to the mast are disconnected at the
nav-station. Wiring harness for the old engine is removed ready for the new Betta instruments.
If you click on the accompanying photo’s you can read the captions with the description of the px.
Just got back from a food run into town. Have a loaf of bread and tin food so all set for another 4-5 days. I borrowed a mates 150cc bike for the 15 min run to town. Paid in the universal barter currency, COLD BEER. 14 Ringgits for 8 beers that’s about 75 cents a beer and a very reasonable rental fee for the transportation I would say.
Later mates.
27 Jan 2012---Friday
Only a ½ day work out of the crew on a Friday. Regardless things
seem to be moving forward in a positive way.
Today cabinetry and overhead liners were removed to get access to the broken and suspicious mast rigging inside the boat. The port side tie rod is the one that broke. Upon inspection, once the cabinetry has been removed, it tells us that the starboard chain plate has been leaking a bit over the years. It is rusted and will be replaced so both sides will be up to the task of holding the mast for future sailing adventures. Needless to say, the lockers have to be emptied and the stuff put somewhere. It looks like “hurricane Dan” has gone through the whole boat. Very glad that Mary is not here for this FUN?? I can live in unbelievable clutter but it drives ½ Pint up the wall or in this case the bulkheads.
When not actually involved in helping dismantle things I also try to do small projects like fixing both heads, removing and stopping the rust on the anchors, etc. I also am arranging to have a new
porta-boat shipped in to replace our much loved one that drifted away in Mumbai, India. Go figure, it saves a good bit of money to
purchase the boat from Dubai that is shipped from the company in California to be delivered to Langkawi, Malaysia.
Most importantly, my daily skype chats with friends and family help to keep me up-beat about this huge project. Keeping up this blog is also a fun diversion. I hope you enjoy reading of the trials and tribulations of this Miss-Adventure.
Later mates.
Saturday 28 January, 2012
The long awaited day is here. Nick arrived at the usual 0900 time and the workers shortly thereafter. We are dealing with the port crane hire to remove the mast and the engine from Still Dreaming.
First they were to come around 1000, then just after lunch at 1300.
They finally showed up at 1520. We all had jobs to do so it was not like we were just waiting and twitteling our thumbs till they arrived.
We were ready with the rig all loose and ready to pull the pins on the shrouds. Ryan had to climb, nice to have mast stairs, the mast and attach the lifting strap just below the second spreaders. That way the mast would be heavy on the bottom end and hang straight down once free of the boat. The Malaysian crane operator was a bit challenged with right / left / up / down along with forward and back but with a bit of jockeying the mast came out without too much difficulty. Good we had six guys on deck to keep the shrouds and stays from marring up the teak deck as the mast was eased up and away. Then came lowering and supporting the mast on 55 gallon drums to keep it up off the ground. Once again, good thing we had many hands struggling to guide the almost 25 meter long mast lowered between Still Dreaming and the boat next to us. The mast is long and heavy but is now sitting where it is supposed to be. Nick is now ready to measured for the new wire rigging, once the rod rigging has been removed.
Next came the removal of the old Perkins engine. Engine mount nuts have been removed just pick it up and out. Well, a bit easier said than done for sure. We were taking the engine with gear box transmission still attached. Of course the forward starboard support bar would not slide free for the mount stud. Re-adjust the lifting chain to make a bit more pressure on the front of the engine. Remember this is a v-drive engine set up so the engine is in ass backwards. Engine is facing aft and transmission is forward. Once the chain was re-positioned and a bit of prying with a crow bar she popped free and could be lifted straight out. Along with a bit of yelling and waving at the crane operator, Mr. Perkins is now sitting on a pallet in the work yard.
Tomorrow Nick’s crew will have to clean a VERY nasty, oily, engine compartment to make ready for the new Beta 60.
More miss-adventures to follow mates.
Cheers.
Dan
29 --- 31 Jan 2012
I think there is a saying about “things can not get better until they get worse” or something to that effect. Well Still Dreaming is in a
state of TOTAL chaos!! I can live in clutter if I have to but this place is really over the top. I am now reduced to an area in the aft
cabin about 3 X 4 feet, plus the bed. There is not a space anywhere that I can even put the computer down. I am typing this with the computer on my lap sitting on the edge of the bed. I know eat my yummie tins for dinner in the cockpit because there is no where to sit inside the boat.
The up side is Still Dreaming is getting fixed. Things are going on in multiple areas all at once. Today they were glassing, for more strength, on the underside of the deck in the area of the chain plate attachment inside the boat. The rod rigging is being removed from the mast. The engine compartment is cleaned and the old stuffing box has been removed and will be replaced with new.
My job today was replacing two sea-cocks for the toilet in the forward head. New 316 stainless steel cocks should last for years, and the price here is less than half of the US or NZ prices.
Plus, trying to get things straightened out with the shipping agent for receiving my new porta-boat from California. They got ya over a barrel so no use in complaining about cost of shipping in Malaysia.
The chaos continues mates.
Dan
Since it is Friday this means that Nick and crew do not work. Thus Friday here is like a Sunday
in NZ or USA. I decide to do the same----well not work on boat maint. things.
I have been spending hours on the computer and e-mail trying to get a porta-boat shipped
into Langkawi. It is a huge process doing this with third world corruption and major drama
to get things completed. I am close but still working on it.
Last evening, Thursday 2 Feb, I had a good catch up chat with Fiona & Terry from Roam 2 one of the boats
on the rally from Turkey to India. They were close to another marina down the coast so we
decided to meet at the bar close to their anchorage. The road to Talaga Harbor was about 25km,
I found this out only after getting there and checking the speedo.
I had been there a couple of times but always via a taxi. Did not pay much attention on how
we got there. I now had the use of a motor bike so no worries I can come over about 1800.
It has not rained in two weeks. You guessed it. Black clouds roll in and it starts to rain
lightly just before time to leave. If I am going to be late I will just txt.
This works great and very inexpensive. I have verbal directions on how to get there but
no clew how far and how many traffic lights I must pass through. Short story I made it and
did not get too wet. Driving home in the night after a heavy rain made me very cautious
and my speed was reduced accordingly. Beers at 2 Ringgit each made it a very affordable
and fun way to stay connected with our boatie friends.
Friday I was talking to Mirjam in Auckland and bitching about my computer not having Word
and making it very hard to copy and paste things for this blog and all the e-mails that
needed to be written. She suggested that they may have low cost option's her in Langkawi.
When I went in to Langkawi Computer in Kuah, 12 km from the boat yard, they had the
latest 2011 Microsoft package for 300 MYR (3 Malaysian Ringgit is $1 US---remember this)
I inquire if they had a less expensive option. Well yes, but I must bring in my computer
and she would install the 2007 package for 40 MYR. Sounds good to me so back to the boat
to pick up the computer. Once back she installs the needed package and I ask how I can
get this on my other computer which in in NZ? No worries, she makes a folder, along
with the relevant product code numbers on this computer and it can be cut to the external
hard drive and installed on as many commuters as I have. Hey, third world countries
do have some advantages. Cool, plus she only charges me for one install for 40MYR
Of course then I buy a 4 station docking port for 20MYR and a external speaker system
for mp3 players and DVD audio sound for movies for only 60MYR.
Borrowing the bike has been a really cool trade with Andy, a Britt boatie here in the yard.
He is working on his steel boat and has been here for about 18 months. Thus he is a
wealth of local knowledge. The universal barter currency world wide seems to be COLD BEER!
I use the bike for a 6-pack of cold ones which cost 14 MYR. He is happy and I am overjoyed.
I have rode many thousands of kms but not that much in third world countries. There are
hundreds of bikes in Langkawi and car rules only apply IF you feel like it. I am riding
very cautiously as the cars definitely do not give your your lane. Cars often pass with
on coming traffic easily 2 meters inside my lane. I never expect a car to give me the
right of way and ride defensively. They drive on the left here like in NZ so that is no
problem. Of course when you come to a traffic light and there are 6--8 cars backed up
you just go to the far left and go right up to the light next to the car in that lane.
There are usually 3--5 bikes lined up for the green light. Then it is a drag race for
the bikes to get off and ahead of the cars. I do this but am not brave and or stupid
enough to pass between the cars like a lot of local rider do.
Progress in the boat means every day it gets torn apart a bit more but they are now
down to the tie rod failure point inside the boat. It required grinding out about 25mm
of GRP to get to the stainless steel plates that were the lower attachment point for
the chain plate on the boat stringers. New plates will be made up and drill and tap
the existing plate and then glass them back in. Nick is going to use four 3/8" bolts
on a 1/2" thick plate and the tie rod will be 1" threaded rod through the existing
plate and the new plate plus oversize nuts all welded together. This should get us
back to the strength required to keep the rig up. Which is a good thing.
Speaking of rig---the mast has the spreaders off the needed measurements for the new
wire should be completed shortly. I will be masking off the fittings, their are 35
mast steps plus the winches and other misc. fittings making it ready to be painted.
Now that it is down you might as well do it all at once. It will be costly but not
too bad, at least that is what I have been told. Actually waiting for firm quotes
for several different jobs that I would like done. Another good thing is I am not
in a hurry especially if I can orchestrate most of this from NZ via e-mail and px
without actually having to be present.
Only time will tell how this will all shakes out.
As the eternal optimist in this family I think we shall succeed in this project!!!
Later mates.
Saturday 4 Feb. 2012
Nick does work on Saturdays so his men started doing various jobs aboard. They are still grinding the GRP away on the port side to get down to stainless steel tie rod mounting plate to attach the new chain plate system.
I have been busy in the heads replacing sea-cocks and hoses now that the boat is on shore and easy to be done. Front head is completed and now on to the aft head. Plus replacing the galley sink drain. The waste and sink drains are about 40mm reinforced plastic tubing. Tough stuff when you have to make connections with a hose barb or try to bend around corners. I am also using the very strong t-bolt hose clamps for this larger size hose. They make a superior connection and the clamps are purchased here at a reasonable price.
Also doing a bit of maintenance painting of the anchor & our much used two wheel folding cart was rusting pretty badly. The humidity in this area is wonderful for steel tools or anything metal to rust very quickly. It is so bad, the other day I needed a sail needle. I went into the plastic tool box inside a plastic tube where the needles are stored. How in the hell can they turn into a rusted mess INSIDE these plastic boxes where they have been stored for the past 20+ years without even a spot of rust. Welcome to the humid tropics.
Along about 1530 a huge crane pulls up. Talk about overkill. This crane that is rated at 50,000# is here to lift up my new Beta 60 engine that weighs about 500#. The Beta is physically a bit smaller than the Perkins that came out. Thus the replacement was dropped into the engine BOX, I could never call that tight space a engine room, with little drama. This week the motor mount brackets will be fabricated and new stuffing box will be installed and the drive shaft put back in. Now that the engine is aboard Nick will place a large timber across the cockpit where he can attach his chain-fall so the engine can be lifted for the instillation of stuffing box and the shaft inserted and then fine measurements can be made for whatever is required for the final engine mounting to the boat.
Shortly after the engine was in I thought it a very good time to do a bit of celebrating. Andy, the Britt that I borrow the bike from, had just returned from another city where they sell 10% alcohol beer. He brought me back one and along with 3—4 others I did not exactly feel like writing up this blog post last night. As usual in the cruising community it was a lively chat with French, Malaysian, South African, Brazil / Australian, British, Dutch & USA represented in the group.
Sunday was a off day for the workers but I did borrow the bike again and went into town to buy sea-cocks and hose so I can carry on with the aft head repairs. Of course I had to buy a few more tins of canned delicious food to keep me going for a few more days. I started the day with Skype chats to Mary then Manfred from Berlin Germany ( he is at his condo in Florida now) & our Andy which is also in Florida at present. This burned up over THREE hours and all at a total cost of ZIP !!! Love Skype.
After posting this blog I think I will call it a day and watch a bit of recorded tellie on the computer.
Tomorrow is supposed to be a public holiday, who knows for what so not sure if Nick will turn up but I can still putter away with my projects.
Cheers from Langkawi
Dan
Dan has been blogging up a storm. I miss him terribly and am counting the days until his return. While Dan was and still is working in the heat of Malaysia bringing Still Dreaming back to her prime, I played with family in the cool of the Michigan winter. Catching up with lifelong and forever friends, time with extended family, wonderful. Seeing a happy family, Jenny, Raja and Kiera enjoy their new home with the addition of two puppies is indeed priceless.
Now, what do we want from a blog? The rosy sunset story of a fabulous time with family and friends or the insane adventure of returning home to New Zealand? The only way to present this tale is to simply provide the bullet points and hope a chuckle or guffaw results.
While relaxing in Jenny’s lovely new home, two days prior to my leaving, I receive from Orbitz an e mail indicating that I must call this number immediately as there as been a major change in my itinerary. I phone, thinking I would wait forever to get to a human ,and incredulously the call went through immediately with the problem being explained by a sweet Asian lady who interjected her explanation with “Oh dear”, “Oh no”. My stress begins and starts to rise.
..... The Air Pacific Flight is cancelled from LA to Fiji meaning I would have to spend a night in LA and a night in Fiji.
.... Flight to LA, no problem, shlep my luggage all the way through LAX (okay I spent the 5 bucks for a trolley, the ONLY country I have ever had to pay for the use of the luggage trolley!!), not the money but the principle. At the Air Pacific counter get hotel voucher, able to check luggage
..... shuttle to Hilton, not bad, came with three food vouchers for $20.00 each, like I’m going to eat $ 60.00 a food a day.
..... AM, shuttle to Air Pacific desk and the flight is now delayed until 6:30 that evening, another voucher at hotel.
...... told that hotel would call me if there was a change
...... shuttle to Hilton with more vouchers! Anyone need unused food vouchers?
...... have checked luggage onto the elusive flight, so don’t even have workout clothes
...... as I was going to my room, another hapless Fiji traveler explained that he just heard no flight at 6:30, another night in the hotel and flight out next day at 3:00 pm. No call to my room regarding the change.
....... next day, knowing that airline and hotel - communication for the beleaguered traveler was lacking, I visited hotel desk, nothing, later called hotel desk, nothing, called the airline in Fiji and looked on line with my booking reference number: yes, indeed I was flying out at 3:00
..... flight to Fiji indeed took place, noneventfully
..... landing and checking through immigration and customs, I see on the board that the flight for NZ the next morning has been cancelled
...... sick with a cold,
..... shlepping luggage to heavens knows where, get on a bus with all the other now exhausted travelers, who would like to get to NZ, forced to listen to loud music drive along the bumpy roads at midnight for about 46 minutes to
....... the First Landing Hotel Hilton ,lovely but at now one am yes one AM in Fiji, no clue how long I have been up, sick, tired not impressed. However enjoying the check in person. If you have seen the movie the “World’s Fastest Indian” the individual in drag checking our hero into the motel totally came to life with this Fijian equivalent.
...... Slept fitfully with cold meds. Next morning, after breakfast and a swim in the pool, I went back to my room, took more cold meds, laid down and slept through the time to meet the shuttle back to the airport.
....... With thoughts that I will miss my plane, I frantically checked out, took a taxi to the airport. Now able to see the countryside with beautiful landscape and shack like homes, I once again am reminded of these beautiful tropical islands with the glam resorts for the foreigners with the resort employees working so hard and living in poverty.
...... airport! line!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! finally get to the check in desk at last, have to go to another counter because my name is not showing up on the manifest.
...... next counter, show the lady my booking reference number since having specific flight information has been changed multiple times, she states “ Oh yes, you were to come on the flight cancelled two days ago.” HM!!!, I smile. Get a number, go back to the check in counter I came from, and then am directed to ANOTHER counter. At last, I do receive a boarding pass to get on the plane.
....... on the plane, upgraded to business, spacious, wonderful service, relaxing AT LAST I am on the last leg home to NZ.
...... A large man sits next to me whose body odor wafted my way. I sigh and sit back for the ride home, trying to keep all together as the pilot announces the flight will be about an hour getting of the ground as a few people did not make it through immigration and the luggage needs to be removed from the plane.
Tis the journey not the destination..., NO, this time it was totally the destination!!! On top of everything I was suppposed to meet friends from Michigan who were in NZ, in which I hope I could spend a day with them when I returned; I returned the morning they left.
Good to be home but missing my Dan.
ENJOY New Zealand !!!
Waitangi Day in NZ is like the 4th of July in the USA.
Celebrating New Zealand's Waitangi Day --------
Waitangi Day is a public holiday held on 6 February every year to commemorate the signing of New Zealand's founding document - the Treaty of Waitangi - in 1840.
The national holiday was first declared in 1974, and since then has grown in significance for all New Zealanders through the Māori renaissance that has fostered better understanding of the Treaty’s ramifications.
Official celebrations are held at the Waitangi Treaty Grounds in the Bay of Islands, Northland, but there are also many other events throughout the country. We have been to the grounds and they are nice to see for any visitor to NZ.
Traditional activities
Māori cultural performances, speeches from Māori and Pakeha (European) dignitaries, and a naval salute are all part of the annual activities at Waitangi.
The Ngatokimatawhaorua, one of the world’s largest Māori ceremonial waka (war canoe), sits on the grounds at Waitangi. The 70-year-old waka was refurbished and relaunched for the 2010 celebrations. The enormous wooden vessel, with room for 80 paddlers and 55 passengers, is an impressive sight on the water.
Waitangi also hosts a three-day festival that includes music, dance, food and traditional Māori customs.
Mary gets Monday off of work, so enjoy you day my Love. I wish I was there with you.
Enjoy mates!
Dan
Sunday 12 Feb. 2012
Yes, things are progressing on Still Dreaming. Not at breakneck speed
but at least in the right direction.
Nick and crew are working on several things at once. He has three guys and each have tasks that fall in their skill level that they can do without constant supervision.
The tie-rod materials are on order. The mounting plates are also being made waiting for all the pieces to come together. The engine is in and sitting on wooden blocks till the final motor mount brackets can be fabricated. The topsides are being sanded and the primer will be sprayed in due time. The mast and boom have been masked off and sanded also waiting for the spray operation.
I have been working for days on both heads and the galley to upgrade any fitting or sea-cock that look in any way questionable. Now is the time to do these maintenance tasks when the boat is high and dry. Of course this has meant countless trips to town. A 30 minute bike ride but Andy is quite happy with our beer for bike arrangement so it works well for both of us. Hose, fittings, hose clamps, and sea-cocks plus paint and rust converter are all part of the supplies needed for these projects. ------
I have been also trying to get my porta-boat from the factory in California to Langkawi. The first leg from CA to Kuala Lumpour (KL), is easy. Put it on a cargo flight bam it is there next day. The last 150 miles is definitely another story. Langkawi is an island and a duty free island at that. No cargo flights that can handle a box 13 feet long. Have to get a truck to pick up the boat at the International Airport & bring it to the port facility where it can be cleared by customs & then I can get it. It cost more for the last 150 miles than the previous 5,000+ miles. Just the system, so go with the flow, & do not stress over stupid practices that I can do nothing about.
Skype has really helped to keep me up-beat and my daily chat with Mary is always the highlight of the day, regardless of the time that we can chat. I am counting the days till I can be back with her at our home in New Zealand. This project has topped my 47 day boat delivery and when I get back this weekend it will be 55 days apart. These is a record for us being apart but NOT meant to be topped!!! Just have to do what is necessary if we want Still Dreaming to be in sailing shape for future adventures.
Later mates
Work has come to a halt for about four days because Nick is in Thailand making arrangements for the arrival of a huge catamaran that he will also be doing a engine replacement on. The cat is too large, with a beam of 35 feet, for this yard so he will take to the shipyard just over the fence from where Still Dreaming is kept.
Naturally, since he and his three workers are not here they need to move the mast so they can get to other boats that are to be launched. I can tell you that moving a 69’, 21 meters, mast is not easy. Made even more difficult with little room for maneuvering in a boat yard that has no rhyme or reason as to how the boats are positioned. We employed the use of the travel lift to hoist one end and eight guys slowly walking the mast out and supporting it on Nicks gantries and three oil drums. Ok for now but it can not stay where it is for too long. I would have liked to have taken pictures of this process but I was one of the toter's as well as making sure that the mast was not scratched or damaged in the process.
I have to say that Ryan, the son of the yard owner, did do a great job of maneuvering the travel lift for the relocating of my mast and then moving a 6 meter race boat so he could launch the 38’boat that was next to me. We did have to remove one of my jack stand so he could get within inches of my topsides to jockey around and lift the other boat & get it out of the jumble. I commented to the other boat owner how the tires on 80% of the travel lifts everywhere in the world look like they will pop any secont. Nice thought when he is lifting our floating "pride and Joy??"
I am now down to hours before I leave to go back to Mary and home.
I have been here for one month and the time has really gone by very quickly. I just hope that it is not too much of a “leap of faith” to trust that this project can be followed through by Nick and crew without me being on site.
I have one more day so tomorrow, hopefully, I can find out where my dinghy is. Since I received notice that it was to arrive at the International Airport in KL three days ago. Once again, moving at Malaysian pace. I think they really do move like the old saying----two speeds-----slow & stop.
Since my internet is supposed to expire tomorrow at 1237 I will get this posted tonight from Langkawi. I will keep you updated from Kaihu, New Zealand once I get home. It is about 22 hours transit time from Still Dreaming to Auckland.
Back to my Mary after 55 days apart---way toooooo long!!!!
Later mates.
Leaving Still Dreaming is always a exercise in last minute remembering. Of course I have been looking to the day that I can leave and get back to my Mary, but first all of the last minute boat things.
Packing is always a task usually depositing and then removing so I can bring only the essential items. The airlines over the years have drastically reduced the amount of baggage that your can take. In the early years when we would leave Lifes Dream and take an international flight we had 2 bags of 30kg per person. Now on the cheap seat flights that I take it is only one bag of 20kg and you have to pay for that one. I always think I will not have much to take, WRONG. To get the most of my 20kg I travel with a large dry-bag that has shoulder straps. Once the bag is on the back it makes for a easy carry. I have scales on the boat so I can judge if I will be overweight. The bag packing took about 1 ½ days and only got emptied three times till I came up with the final pack. Sorry Andy that old alternator was just too heavy. Must plan on that extra 25# on my next time to the boat. At the airport my bag weighed in at 19.6kg. Man I did not have to leave my two pair of work shorts and my shoes after all.
Departure day had the alarm set of 0600. Yes, I was awake shortly after 0400 and finally got up about 0450. Nice breckie of cup-of-soup followed by a couple of cups of coffee. Due up the dishes, double check all the 12V fans are turned off along with the pressure water system. Out the boat at about 0640. It is still dark and I am guided to the front gate by a nice sliver of moon. A Turkey moon, like in the Turkish flag, we have called it for years since spending so much time in Turkey. I am only have about 70# of baggage with my dry-bag on my back and my computer backpack on my left shoulder. Remember it cools?? down to about 30C at night so by the time I plod to the front gate my shirt looks like I have run through the sprinkler on the way.
Taxi that was ordered the day before is prompt and gets there at 0725. It only took 12 minutes to get to Langkawi airport. This set me back a whopping 20 MYR. Take a taxi ride for less than $7 USD and see if they take you for more than a few blocks not 15km. I am way early but that is how I like it. When my check bag went through the x-ray I was asked if I was carrying walkie-talkies & why. The boat story for the two VHF radio’s was acceptable. Hey, they really do look & screen your bags.
The flight to Kuala Lumpur, KL, was a quick 47 minute ride. Nice unexpected announcement told me we were landing at the international airport. I was thinking we would land at the LCCT, low cost carrier terminal, & have to take a bus to the big terminal. I have to pick up my bag and get it checked into the Jet Star system for the flight to Singapore, where I have a 3 ½ hour layover then on to Auckland & ½ Pint. At the Jet Star counter I am an hour early to check in so I am writing this up as I wait. Gee, just like a real seasoned traveler does.
Hope my computer battery holds out but regardless it does make the time pass quickly for sure.
I have a 3+ hour layover in Singapore. This place is HUGE. It definitely helps when you have been here previously. Actually it looks like a nice mall in the USA with the added benefit you can catch a plane and fly on. Second story has a nice ol-Subway shop. After my turkey sub I stop to watch a TV segment of the Volvo Ocean Race & then the World Motorcycle Ice Racing held in Russia. The Russians kicked frozen ass on their home ice.
Once on the plane, which is pretty much packed, the Captain tells us there will be a delay because there are just too many planes trying to fly in and out of the very busy airport. Hey, what is an hour delay on a 12 hour ride. Settle in read my book, try to nap, what a chore it is to sleep in a uncomfortable plane seat but daydream of being back to NZ.
No drama on the long flight. Upon our approach to Auckland the Captain announces the weather is sunny and 21C (70F). I hear someone behind me comment a bit chilly here. Like I have said the Kiwi’s do not have a clue about heat or cold.
Luggage takes an hour to come around on the conveyor belt but makes it through just fine.
Mary is waiting and I am back to NZ after being away from her for 55 days. They say it is not the destination but the journey that counts.
WRONG---Mary is the destination and that is what is important!!!!
Short stop off at the Swiss Kids house and then hit the road for the 3+ hour drive back to Kaihu.
Back home---switch gears----no boat projects---now home stuff.
Funny, first thing on the agenda, beside drink a COLD beer and gaze at the trees of home, our non-conformist chicken Lizbet is out of the pen. She is used to eating out of my hand so when she comes I can pick her up and Mary gets the scissors to give her a feather trim to the wings so she can not fly out again. At least for a few weeks till the feathers grow back.
Schwantlen Down Under --- I love it here!
Later mates
Ready for winter------that is a bit of a laugh since it never really gets cold at Schwantlen Down Under but we are prepared for a bit of a chill with the new heat pump / air conditioner. These units do both heat and cool. We have a wonderful wood stove and large overhead fans to circulate the warmth of the wood fire but as most of you know it is very hard to regulate a wood stoves temperature. Years ago, in Michigan, we heated with wood and I had an air tight stove and a flue damper which made regulation of the fire much better. The new stoves, sold in NZ, you can not totally choke off the incoming air & a flue damper is not available so temperature regulation is not so good. Also, Mary got sick last year and did not throw off the chest crud for many weeks which got me thinking that the heat pump might kill the chill and help to filter the house air quality. With her congestion problems the internet doctors tell me that any smoke or circulation of dust with the overhead fans will aggravate her system. Keep this lady healthy, she brings in the paycheck.
The jury will be out on this issue till about May when a little heat will feel good in the evenings as we settle back and watch a movie in the evenings.
We will keep you posted.
Later mates.
Wow, time does fly when you are having fun! When I started thinking about the time line for the flooring project I realize that it has been dragging on now for 14 months. It is close to completion now, honest.
Well it started back in Jan of 2011 when a mate told me that he knew of a mircacopra floor to a boat shed that was for sale and it would be enough wood to cover my whole house floor. Of course it was north of Keri Keri which is about 2 ½ hour drive away. We were up in Opui on We-Be-Gone, Andy & Mirjams boat, for New Years so from there it was not far to go up and give a look. This was a floor from a boat shed that guy built a catamaran in over a 7 year time span. Of course the boards were unfinished, soiled, oiled, painted splotches, West System spills but for $700 I bought all the floor boards along with the 6X2 joists that they were mounted on. The deal was, the bloke would take all the nails out of the floor boards and stack them for my return with a large trailer. I was in no hurry so the bloke took about a month till he had everything ready for pick up.
Robin, from Kaihu Motors, just down the road from home is always helpful in lending me his trailers and I needed his big car hauler trailer for the size and weight of the wood. Olaf, my neighbor, lent helping hands and came along for the ride and helped with loading the trailer.
We made the mistake of listening to Shelmie, a German sailor mate, that was there and helped with the loading. He instructed us to load so that there was more weight on the wheels of the trailer and not so much tongue weight. This was fine for the drive back to the house. Then THE DRIVEWAY!! At this point the drive was still gravel and steep as hell. Car was in 4 wheel drive but only made it up ¼ of the way till the tires were spinning. I should have had the tongue heavy to press the back tires to the ground for traction. Lesson well learned. The rig did a semi-controlled backwards slide and into the shallow ditch next to the driveway. Robin to the rescue. He runs a small scale wrecker service and has a jeep with one hell of a powerful winch and a long cable. At least with me in the ditch he had room to get by and go to the top of the drive and put a chain to a tree to anchor him for my winch ride up the steepest part of the drive. We then proceeded with both vehicles pulling together and we got up to the house where the wood was piled in front till it could be used. We had this huge wood pile covered with a tarp in the front yard for months.
Another mate from Whangarei, 90 km away, had a thickness planer that I could borrow. Florian and Lilli came over for a work week-end visit and the lumber was planed down from a randon thickness to 21mm. Now both sides of the boards were clean and smooth, well at least clean.
Next came attaching the 3X1 stock to the concrete floor placed every 16”. The floor took 200 molly-anchors drilled into the concrete. This required a REAL hammer-drill. Not the wimpy hand drill like I have that says it is a hammer. Purchased a AEG industrial strength hammer drill which made the hole drilling a piece of cake.
The stringers were attached in a 3 X 3 meter section at a time.
Mind you we are still trying to function with the house in a constant jumble. Sort of made a trip to the loo at night a obstacle course run.
The actual make ready for the floor boards went like this.
My wood pile had random lengths of board up to a max of 4.2 meters.
Planks were selected and cut into pieces which would fit the stringer length. Since it was 16” on center my wood was cut in 16” 32” 48” 64” or 80” lengths. Cut slightly longer on the first rough cut by 2”---3”.
On the table saw rip all the stock down one side to get a smooth edge.
Then set saw to 5 3/8” and do the finish cut for the final board width.
Then run all boards on the router table which cut a ¼” slot down both sides. Instead of doing tongue & groove I elected to do groove and groove. That way I did not loose almost ½” of board width which would have been the tongue. To make this work I cut 6mm plywood into 7/8” wide strips 15” long. The ¼” slot was 6.35mm wide. Thus I glued on one side this strip into the board with .35mm of play in the joint. I estimated it took about 1100 of these tongue pieces to do the floor.
After the slots were cut every board went back to the chop saw for a final trim to exact length & to make sure the ends were square. This meant each and every board was cut 6 times and run on the router twice. A bit labor intensive but what the hell I am having FUN???
The actual board attachment to the stringers was with a 50mm brad nail with my air compressor powered nail gun. I did approximately 90% of this job by myself since my number one helper lady was at work
The floor is now DONE after 14 months since carting home the boat-shed floor. At least done as far as my part of this flooring project is concerned. Next, call in the pro from Dargaville and get the floor professionally sanded and a protective two-part finish applied.
My call to schedule the sanding will be put off till the bloke gets his leg out of a cast.
To be continued mates.
As most of you know, Mary is the New Zealand bread earner down here. She is working four days a week in Whangarei, which is a 1 hour 10 minute drive from our home. She is out the door at about 0630 and returns about 1700. Because of this SHE made it possible for us to get our residency here in New Zealand.
I am writing this blog without asking her, because she always down-plays her involvement in our projects. I certainly do not want anyone to get the idea that these are exclusively “Dan projects.” Whenever we do projects, providing she is not at work, we do work together. We do work well together, even though I tend to be a control freak.
Look at the attached photo’s and the captions as I brag a bit about my
#1 HELPER !!!!
Cheers mates
Dan
Repairs and improvements to Still Dreaming go on as I monitor them with photo’s and e-mail from Nick, in Langkawi, Malaysia.
The status as of 8 March 2011-----
My wonderful new porta-boat has arrived from the factory in California. Shipment time, factory to Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, 2 days.
KL to the boat, distance 300 KM, about FOUR WEEKS !!! Funny costs for the shipment----first 6000 miles about $425 USD---last 300 miles about $325. I had to pay a bloke $200 to shuffle paperwork for the damn clearance papers. I should say though, the duty free status of Langkawi should have saved about $1200--$1500 USD by not paying import duty on the dinghy. Stop bitchin Dan, at least it is now aboard!
Engine motor mounts have been fabricated and the new Beta 60 engine is bolted in place. There was also new cutlass bearing and stuffing box installed prior to the final placement of the engine.
Mast, spreaders & boom have been primed and painted. Ready for the new wire rigging, which will be coming in due time.
The newly fabricated tie-rods are now installed into the interior of Still Dreaming. See the photo captions explaining how this was done.
Nick has business to attend to in Australia so the progress to Still Dreaming will be haulted, in his absence, for about a month.
To be continued mates.
PS---my new heat pump was programmed this morning to come on at 0530-----1/2 Pint ate her muesli and sweet tea in heated comfort before going off to work-----as they say PRICELESS !
Snow day in Northland New Zealand???? NOT---we had liquid snow.
It was actually a flood day. Mary lives 90km from the Blomfield Special Needs School in Whangarei. On Monday 19 March it was pouring down rain. Dargaville, 32 km south of our house, got 120mm ( 5” ) of rain in 24 hours. It did not stop raining for almost 2 ½ days.
School was let out early on Monday and closed for Tuesday.
If we were back in Michigan she would have had a snow day. Here it was a flood day. Hwy 12, the main highway south of our house, was closed for about 3 days because of flooding over the road in the low areas. Mary had to take the back roads on a detour to get to school for two days.
Hey-----at least we did not have to shovel at all !!
Cheers mates
NO-----We did not have a huge argument that carried on all day!!
Our rocky day was to collect river stones to go around our stove.
Our wood floor surrounds our wood stove. They just call it a fire down here. We are forever being presented with new words or the same words pronounced in a whole different way so they do not even sound like the known word. Regardless we are learning Kiwi talk bloody well.
Another no brainer-----buy stones at the building supply store for at least $50 or pick up stones from the river which is practically at our doorstep? Hey, FREE and fun makes for a good outing.
6km from our house the river flows under a new logging truck bridge & it provided easy access to get to the river and an area to park our Toyota Land Cruiser 4X4.
In our trusty Kiwi gum boots we wade the shallows to pick up small stones for the project. Back at home the stones are laid out on a work table to dry. In the meantime we mix up poly urethane thinned with a bit of mineral spirits to make a watery thin coating.
½ Pint, needing instant gratification, can barely wait till the rocks are dry and ready for the coating. The reason for the coating is to give the rocks the wet look. Mary, certainly no stranger to a paint brush, starts straight away on the coating of the rocks. Of course it would be out of the question to set the rocks back on the table to dry overnight. Before I knew it she had started arranging the wet rocks around the stove. Hey, they did look just as I had hoped. Wet & free, what a combination.
Of course we did not get quite enough stones to do the whole project so off to a closer bridge I go as she coats what we have. Once back, this time she has to wait because it is almost dark. Now it would be Wine-O-clock to celebrate a successful fun project day.
The next morning the rocks are still looking nice and shiny and now that they are dry completely stuck together from the wet coating. That’s ok we did not want to move them around anyway.
Later mates.
Dan wrote a quick blog of the stone expedition. This is a follow up about the area where we collected the river stones. The beauty of this island country is one of the factors that brought us here. I am not writing to be positive or negative but just commenting on what is happening around us in the Tutumoe Mountains. We look out on the Tutumoes from our home and drive through them to get to the Pacific Coast.. What is happening here and all of Northland, North Island NZ. is LOGGING!!!! The pictures tell the story below. The logs are carried by trucks to the port and sent to Asian countries. The pine wood is not the best so is made into items such as pallets and packing crates and then probably sold back to NZ. Not only is the land being clear cut and devestated but think of oil costs, wear and tear on the two lane roads, wear and tear on the gravel roads. Once out of Auckland going north, there are NO motorways, only paved very hilly, very curvy, lots of ess turn, roads for the main though fares. The rail system was discontinued in the far north years ago yet the tracks still exist. As you can see from the pictures, it is not selective cutting, thus many native trees like the Pongas are also destroyed. These mountains and valleys once were full of the Kauri, the second largest tree on the world. All gone now except in the parks where they are protected. As you can see, the arguments are many. North of here in very Maori dominated land the sign saying logging trucks had the T crossed out replaced by an F.
Mothers Day---New Zealand 2012
Yes, we are always the predictable, never deviate from the normal type of couple----- NOT !!!!
Mothers Day should not be any different. What did we do? Go out to dinner at a nice restaurant? NO Give small presents to Mary? Yes She got a nice new waterproof Fire Fly H-7 LED headlamp. How do we try them out, CAVING of course.
The Waipu Caves are 1 1/2 hour drive from our house. Located just south of Whangarei Mary packs a picnic lunch and we are off for a fun day, away from house projects for a change.
Upon arrival at the cave we eat our lunch on the ground chatting with a German tourist that is looking for his 2 lost lady friends. They show up shortly, so all is fine.
The cave entrance is only 100 mtrs. from the car park. We enter wearing our gum boots as the water is not deep. Well most of the places that is. Our new headlamps really do the trick. I have purchased two lamps. Mary has the H-7 which puts out 180 lumen of light. I have the H-5 which is rated at 120 lumen. Great side by side test. Mary's H-7 lamp is head and shoulders better than my H-5. Guess that is what you get when you double the price.
We venture further in. Really cool, you can not get lost in this cave because there is shallow river running through it. We proceed, sometimes in the water other times on the slippery mud banks. I am ahead and can hear the sound of rapids. This could be a real O'shit so better be cautious. It turns out to only be a short rapids and not even over our gum boots. Along the way we turn off our lamps frequently and the cave roof lights up with hundreds of twinkling stars. Actually they are glow worms, but they sure look like little bright stars. Many of the stalactite's look like they are covered with gold flecks as they shine so brightly in the light of the torch.
After about a half hour we reach an area where the water is definitely over gum boot depth so we turn back. Our new head torches, as they are called down here, are a resounding success. Next time we come we will be wearing our wet suits and booties so we can explore further into the cave without concern for getting wet & cold. There are also the three Abby caves, close to Whangarei, to be explored. These caves have waist deep water, in places, so the wetsuits will be a must for the water is pretty cold.
On the way back home Mary drives and I play road map reader. We have a new app for the I-pad but the learning curve for me is about straight up so I resort to our, very detailed, NZ road atlas. The back roads are many & lots of them are dead end so it requires a constant finger on the map with Mary reading every road that we pass so I can keep track of our exact position. This may take longer and even be further but it is a fun activity & keeps the map skills up to speed. We do have a talking GPS which we could use but we are in no hurry and makes for an enjoyable journey back home.
We shall return------ to be continued mates.
My workshop was a present to myself in 2008. It was also the way to get the, clutter & tools out of the house. It also cut down on the dust which is not good for Mary’s breathing. The space that it took up, about ¼ of the house, is now our bedroom & the computer/office area.
It goes without saying that no matter how big you build a workshop it is never big enough. My concrete area is 6X6 meters with the building about 4X6 meters. I put a rain roof between the house and the shop, which is only 2 meters from our sliding glass doors out from the kitchen. Great idea, now we need to put the same rain roof on the front of the workshop to give a bit more rain protection & keep the slab dry and usable in the front of the workshop.
Thus we start with roof extension 101 ---- Working alone, I once again do what I think is the easy way to build the roof. Build it on the ground, where you can easily nail the 2X4’s together. Here they are 50mm X 100mm, since we are a metric country. Remember, this extension is 6 meters long by 1.5 meters wide. I did have the forethought to c-clamp (j-clamp here) the timber to the shed roof and through drill so once the frame was completed it would line up correctly. The construction went quite smoothly with my chop-saw making nice square cuts.
Ok, now I have the complete roof frame ready to paint. Holly crap, it is so heavy I can barely prop it up to paint. This requires a coffee break, smoko here, to think how the hell I am going to get it raised 2 ½ meters and properly mated with the mounting surfaces on the workshop roof and the extension roof attached to the house. No worries mate, my sailor background comes in handy every so often. Attach a block to the house end of the mating roof with a nylon strap. Run a line from the frame, which is laying on the ground, through the overhead block and attach it to my 4X4 truck. Piece of cake, up goes the short end to the roof line. I then attach a ratchet strap to each corner and with 2—3
adjustments the end is in place. Now, lift the whole frame up to mate with the roof of the workshop. This was accomplished with a ladder, as the support base, and a scissor-jack from the car for the lifting. The jack would only move up the roof about 25—30cm at a time. Attach a 2x4 with a c-clamp at the far end to temporarily hold up the frame. Let down the jack and move the ladder to reposition the jack for another lift. This only took about 7---8 lifts till it was into position. Unfortunately I forgot to take pictures showing this process. I have the frame within inches and Craig, our neighbor, drives up and gives a bit of a hand to position so the bolts can be inserted making the frame fast to the workshop roof. Temporary support legs are c-clamped to the outside frame, so I could get the correct place that the 4x4 posts should go in the ground. The holes were dug about 700mm deep and the posts were cemented in place. The roof, which consists of opaque white plastic, is now screwed on using the special roof screws. These screws cut a hole about 10mm which allows for expansion of the plastic. They also have a rubber seal cap that keeps out the rain. A couple of days later we had a good ol Kiwi downpour. The bloody roof extension leaked like a sieve. I had matched the pitch of the roof to line up with the existing workshop roof, there was not enough fall to get the rain off quickly.
Remedy, no worries mates, just remove about 200 roof screws and take the whole roof off. I added a 50mm board to the front edge so the fall was greater and then screwed the roof back on.
The extension is now doing it’s job. The concrete pad stays dry just as I had hoped.-----------I do have a few drops in a heavy rain, but I have purchased the rubber sealing material that should stop this and give me a completely dry roof once they have been installed.
I WILL beat the drips before this project can really be called done.
Cheers mates,
Well, within reason we have unlimited shower capability----Now!
The story starts with the fact that we had a small electric hot water heater. It was so small that it was installed above the ceiling in the bathroom. The capacity was 50 liters, about 13 gallons. This equated to shorter showers than I liked. If two people were taking showers back to back it was a hurry up affair. Please realize that we live off of tank water collected off the roof. Water sits in this green plastic 20,000 liter tank beside the house. In the summer this tank does heat up from the sun, which allows a longer shower before it is getting cold. In the cold season, which is now---coldest month of the year is July, shower time was even less. This needed to be rectified and the answer was a caliphant heater. This is what an on demand gas hot water heater is called down here.
You all know that I am the bargain hunter guy. Ok, some of you call me
Mr. Cheap. I prefer to call this activity doing my home work. I get price quote from Dargaville Plumbing & Heating. I do like to buy locally but not if they are way out on their price. Whangarei, a 90km drive away, is always a good source because the city is 10 times larger & has many stores to choose from. I also need two 45kg gas cylinders for this system. I have already made a pad by mixed up two bags of redi-mix cement & with a few river rocks for filler it is all nice a smooth and waiting for the gas bottles. Cement pad was a NZ requirement. Laws are very strict about anything dealing with gas, which equates to having to hire a gas fitter for the hook up. Not rocket science work folks but it is a necessity if I want my insurance company to cover my house in the event of a fire. Not likely but definitely not worth the chance.
Anyway, I am in Whangarei at the place that I usually fill my barbeque gas bottles. I tell the lady that I need a 45kg tank as I point to about 50 sitting on the dock area. O, sorry Sir you will have to call an 800 number and set up an account first. Then she point to Elgas, a competitor gas company across the street, & tells me that they may be able to help me out straight away. Upon entering Elgas, a well set up gas store, I see that they have caliphant heaters on display. They quote a price that is about $220 less than my good ol mate Denzil at Dargaville plumbing. Thanks mate I will think about this heater for a bit, but I need 45kg gas bottles for this system. Now here comes a shocker. Two bottles will cost $1,100.00 ( that was not a typo) to purchase or $135 to rent for a year and they will just exchange when I need them filled. A fill cost $100 per bottle if I bring them in or $127 if they deliver. You guessed it, I will take the rental please. The mate helps me load two cylinders into the back of my Toyota Land Cruiser. Back in the office they set up an account for me. This entails just telling them my name, address and phone number. No checking of ID or anything. Do I need to pay for this now? No mate, you are a customer and we will send you a bill in the post. Try this in the USA and see if you can get even half way to the door. Back in the car I have the I-pad with skype installed. I call Denzil and tell him that I really want to buy from him but can he match the price? Not sure mate will have to check and call you back. I have other places to go. 20 minutes later I receive a call from Denzil & sorry they can not match the Elgas price.
I return to Elgas a short time later. Thought it over mate and I will take the Bosch 17 caliphant. Great, he takes the display off the wall and packs it in the original box. Do I need to pay for this now? No mate, you are a customer it will just be on your bill in the post. This is the trusting New Zealand way. I walk away with 2 gas cylinders and a calaphant, they have a name and phone number. About 10 days later I receive a bill for $1300 which I pay via the internet with a bank to bank transfer of funds. Very cool system and it works for almost everything even paying a mate the money he lent you last Friday at the pub.
Now that I have the main components for this new system I need plumbing pipe and fittings. Back to ol’ Denzil, just hope he is not pissed that I did not buy the caliphaunt from him. No worries mate, lets just go back in the storeroom and get the bits that you need. He also says that I need to crimp the fittings on to the semi-flexible plastic water pipe. But I do not have the required crimpers. No worries you can use two of ours. Once again, New Zealand small town ways, I walk out with crimpers and fittings worth hundreds and a bill will be sent to me in the post.
At home I have already run an electric outlet for the caliphant. Don’t tell, I played sparkie the electrician & did it myself. The unit is properly screwed to the house so it was no drama to run the water lines after a access hole was drilled into the area above the bathroom ceiling. The crimpers for the water pipe fittings are like over-size pliers and just one hard squeeze and the fittings are installed. Without a single drop from a leak I might add. OK, I then notify Denzil that the system is ready for the gas fitter / plumber to come in the next few days. They will call and set up an install time when it fits into their schedule, since we are 32km out of town. The system water pipes have been run to the access above the bathroom but the final disassembly of the electric water tank and attachment of the new pipes will be made by me when the fitter is on site in case I need instruction. I also have to replace a mixer valve in the shower head because we are going from a low to high pressure system. I will do it when I have the plumber close at hand, in case I need instruction. Great game plan, now just wait for the scheduling call and the bloke to show up for the hook up.
Well, I decided to accompany Mary & be the chauffeur for her monthly visit to one of her schools that is a 3 hour drive away. She does her work and I visit the local museum that was recommended to us by Mirjam. I love to do a museum and read all the write up next to the pictures. Wonderful three hours were spent on an exhibit area about the size of a basket ball court. This is about the third day this month that I have been away from the house during the day. As we arrive back at home about 1645 Glenis, the lady that rents our batch, scurries down the drive to tell us that the plumbers had come today. There was a lot of water that was run above the bathroom when a pipe that I had put together blew apart when the plumbers tried to check the system. Dumb shits, the pipe was never connected because I was waiting for them to show up. Well poor Glenis did see the air turn blue when I spoke about how I felt about the damn lack of communications and no scheduling call. To give you an idea it would be like turning on a garden hose above your ceiling. They did do a good job of mopping up though. Denzil immediately got an ear full of the account.
The next day, after I had cooled down a bit, I finished installing the needed mixer valve and the new adjustable shower head & removed the electrical connection to the old water cylinder ( don’t tell, I played sparkie the electrician again) with no more drama.
Bottom line, we can now take showers as long as we like without running out of hot water. Another home improvement to Schwantlen Down Under, well done if I do say so myself.
Later mates,
Dan
OK--- You have not heard anything about Still Dreaming in the last four months. As you know, she is in the work yard in Langkawi, Malaysia.
If you want to ride an emotional rollercoaster, put your boat in a yard and try to micro-manage the refit from 4000 miles away. E-mails with photo’s attached get the roller-car to the top. Wire transferring thousands of dollars and then not hearing if funds have been received for a week puts that car way down on the coaster track.
Nick, I guess you could call him the project manager----now doesn’t that sound impressive, --- was moving ahead with projects quickly when I was there looking at his every move. When I am away the speed of progress seems to slow to a snails pace. BUT I am happy to state that we are at least moving in the right direction. Also helping with slow progress is the fact that the monsoon season is working its way in. Painting in the rain is not really a good idea no matter where you are.
The attached photo’s will show that paint progress is going nicely. It also helps to have a couple of people in Langkawi that can e-mail me their version of how the repairs are progressing.
At the moment the coaster-car is at the top & I will leave you on that positive note.
Cheers mates,
Dan
When we looked at our property for the first time, with the listing realtor, he called our house a shed. Well, we have been trying to make it look like a house, not a shed, every since 2005.
We had three roller doors in the front. The first was converted to a large opening glass door. We are happy to report that roller #2 is now a HUGE picture window with a bottle wall below.
First a 6X2 framework was constructed to cover the whole roller door opening, which was 2.6 meters wide. Wanting to have continuity with the first door we carried on with two windows at the top. We decided to have the lower bottle wall 800mm tall. The angles of the framework on the wall section was to add strength but also, and almost more importantly, to add aesthetic value and break up the look of all the bottles. Cool, framework done and ready for the glass & bottles.
They keep advertising on the telle that New Zealand has a huge drinking problem & we all need to cut down on the consumption. Well, we were not helping out by sending e-mails to all we knew to drink more wine because we need the bottles. I even managed to hook about a hundred bottles from Dave & Christine, our neighbors, who were also saving for a bottle wall but decided we could use theirs and also be the test of how it is actually done. Cool, flying by the seat of our pants on projects is nothing new for Mary and I. Craig, our batch neighbor, really came through for us by emptying the recycle bin at the Kaihu Valley Saw Mill and delivering bottles to the cutting station for Mary. We already had a tile cutter from our flooring projects and this little table saw, with a diamond blade, cut bottles very quickly. We did become “bottle snobs” shortly into this project. We discovered that wine bottles with the inward facing dome projected more light so they were the premo ones to collect. I even started buying my wine by first inspecting the bottom to see if it was domed or flat. Also clear bottles were much in demand, for they really project the light through. Square and triangle bottles were also highly sought after. Since we only wanted the bottle ends to show this required the bottom 70mm (2 ¾”) to be cut off and the rest of the bottle sacked up for Craig to return to the recycling bins. This process meant that for every bottle you see in the wall their were actually two cut half’s and taped with plastic sealing tape to make the bottle brick. Hard to believe that this small wall required about 400 bottles, which Mary cut on the little table saw. As she was cutting & taping bottles I had to make trim for the window instillation. Table saw & router turned out ¾” X ¾” wood strips into nice looking, but simple, window trim for the windows.
Laying up the bottle wall was of course a learning curve but after the first section it went nicely, slow but sure when you are working with cement. The wall was laid from the outside, with the aid of a piece of plywood clamped on the inside to insure a straight wall. Mortar was mixed up by hand by me, in a large plastic bin. Mary set the bottles & we both worked to smooth the wall. Once the bottles were laid in a section they were left for an hour or so to harden up a bit. Then excess mortar was scraped off with a spatula and then final smoothing with a wet rag before the cement set too much. Once the outside was smooth the inside had to get the same before it became a concrete block. Since it is winter, ha ha, here now the days are short so the actual bottle wall laying took about 3 days. After it was left to harden for a few days we painted the concrete around the bottles to compliment the house. Grey and white on the outside and sage & red-ish-brown on the inside. Needless to say it was slow and tedious to paint around the bottles but as it progressed we were both delighted that we took this extra effort & made the wall look all the better in our opinion.
The glass portion was, once again, do your homework and get quotes. Because the picture window was so large we had to follow building code guidelines. Conflicting statements by suppliers made me go to 4 different glass companies to sort out the real requirements. Lucky for me the window was able to be normal window glass. If it had been just a tad larger it would have had to be toughened / safety glass which would have doubled the cost. As is was I could have gotten by with 5mm but chose to go with 6mm ( about ¼”) just to be on the safe side. When the glass man delivered the picture window the inside trim was already in and painted. I quickly ran a bead of calk around the trim and we were all set for our beautiful HUGE picture window to go in from the outside. It was no drama for the two of us to lift the 45kg window, with the aid of really cool pump up section cups made for glass installers. Told the bloke that I wished he would leave me one, as they would work great for doing bottom scraping on Still Dreaming with the use of SCUBA, but he did not take the hint---damn. Up she goes and plop, fit perfectly. I applied a couple of blocks to temporarily hold the outside till I could make and paint the outside trim.
When Mary arrived home from work that night we both just sat and stared, with wine glasses in hand, out our wonderful new picture window!!!
Less like a shed all the time mates!
Cheers from Schwantlen Down Under
Kaihu, New Zealand
It’s getting to be spring in New Zealand, cool in the evening and morning with warm soft breezes throughout the afternoon, perfect. As the weather chilled in most of the US, we thought that it was a good time to return home. Our US adventure which started last July in Los Angeles. Going from two lane roads, left side driving, steering wheel right side, few people which means fewer cars, max speed 62 MPH (100 K) within minutes to 5 lane interstate highway 5 in a rental car at 75 MPH heading south to Jon and Stephen’s. Did we make the right decision?
Leaving winter at home, I expected to lavish by and the pool at Jon and Stephan’s. Alas we discovered what is meant by June gloom. However, after a few days, all is well, had a great time and headed north to San Francisco on route 5.
A stopover in the San Francisco area had us visiting family which included helping cousin Karen unload her huge warehouse of years of “stuff” used in the “Gallant Racing Car” business. Karen and her husband, Dan, rebuilt vintage racing cars. Since Dan’s stroke, Karen was in the processing of selling everything including a 19,000 sq foot warehouse in downtown Oakland, CA.
We were picked up in at the Seattle airport by Toby’s, at that time boss, and whisked to the United States Raleigh Bicycle head offices where a pizza party was taking place for Toby’s 40th birthday. Dan walked in with the cake stating “Happy Birthday, the cost of the cake is not bad but there is a hell of a delivery charge.” Surprise and shock from Toby were exactly what we wanted. While with Toby, we bought the black van with the intent to leisurely travel across the states to see friends and family ending in Michigan.
Great intentions! The black van ended up being a nightmare never to be repeated one would hope. Dan’s words as we were leaving Seattle were to the effect of “I hope we do not drive from repair place to repair place.” Exactly what we did! Let’s dwell on other matters than the van.
Finishing out our Washington State adventure was our first and to this date only HELP X experience. Help X is an organization where you can stay with people for a specified period of time to help them out.
Let’s see, how many chapters in a book this could be. The guy, heavens, I have forgotten his name, Freudian for sure. He appeared friendly at first. His home was a broken down hodgepodge of trailers, sheds, and a small ramshackle house not far from the Canadian border. He really didn’t need any help so we felt at a loss of what to do. What he wanted was to relate his past stories of how he came there, built a hydroelectric dam, sold enough electricity back to the government so he could travel and supposedly help third world countries. His health was failing and he walked with canes and had difficulty moving so he would drive one of his several “in a various state of disrepair” cars around to where he needed to go. Health issues – one story was parasitic organisms from traveling and living in far eastern places. Plausible! Another story, injured while surfing on the Coromandel Coast in New Zealand. Again plausible! Another tale, multiple sclerosis! BINGO.
As his health deteriorated the updating of the hydro dam stopped ten years ago. Nothing had been done. Now he was going to sell this property far from anywhere, a dam that hadn’t been run in over ten years with technology from the past of the turbines, a half built underground house, did I mention that! for millions!!! Cleaning the place up would take millions. He spent his time entertaining pot smoking cronies with his stories, talking to potential buyers, and living in the past. Since we were AGAIN working on the van to get it running, we began to feel trapped. As people met us, we talked about who we were and what we were, as people do. I think this dear smuck began to get his feathers ruffled. I could understand abit. We are in good health, madly in love, traveling around, aware of costs but able to do it. Poor Dan suddenly couldn’t do or say anything right and this jerk would be correcting and critical of everything. We left immediately; again I say immediately when the van was running again. Interesting few weeks and certainly ready for another adventure. Onto Montana.
Cheering from Down Under----OBAMA wins!!!!
Yes, we are very happy that Obama is in for another 4 yrs. I have already received
notes from Kiwi friends that said his victory was a GOOD thing for America & the
rest of the world!!
They had about 3 hours of LIVE coverage of the counting of electoral votes and the build up
to the actual win. They even broke into regular TV show to have Obama’s victory speech
live. Pretty impressive to say the least. Can you see that happen in America? That was one time when the time change worked to our benefit, for the speech was in our early evening viewing on telle.
TV New Zealand did a call / text poll to cast your vote ---- Obama 96% Romney 4%
Shame that other countries can’t cast a ballot in the USA.
One of the Kiwi tweet at the bottom of the TV screen made us laugh “Big Bird can sleep well tonight!”
We of course had cast our absentee ballots in early October. Just because we are X-pats does not mean that we can’t vote in America.
We will hope that the middle class can rebound and the American Dream will shine through!
Love from Schwantlen Down Under
Kaihu, New Zealand
Dan & Mary
Well, we finally can say we have completed overnight hiking (tramping). We completed one on the NZ Great Walks called the Routeburn - Greenstone track, 5 day hike with 4 overnights. These tracks are in the southwest area of South Island and part of the Mt Aspiring and Fiordland National Parks. We had 4 days of sunshine and one day of light rain. Below and under the tree line, swing bridges crossing amazing rivers, ….. Just watch a damn Lord of the Rings movie and you get the idea.
The multiday hike was an incredible learning experience. Would we do one again ?,YES. Would we do it differently? YES. The next blog will explain why.
We enjoyed the tramp. We realized we could carry the gear, hike the trail distance, manage the ascents and descents. What we did not like. Many people prefer to be with groups. We tend to like to go at our own pace whether it be fast or slow, stop when and where we like, and enjoy meeting new people along the way.
We went with 25 people from our Dargaville Tramping Group. Some we knew. We did get a chance to better know some lovely couples.
The main issue for us was that we felt rushed. We woke at 7 AM in the dark and used flashlights to dress, get our gear together, get a group breakfast, make a lunch all in the dark. Off we trek to meet for a group lunch, off we trek to get to the hut which has no electricity, is slightly chilly for what? To sit around for two hours to make a group dinner. It was warmer and lighter outside than in. Why were we rushing to get to a basic cabin which had bunks for 50 when we were going by beautiful places where we could have dabbled our feet in the river, spent more time taking in the views, and enjoyed the peace?
At the end of the third day, I developed for the first time, plantar fasciitis, which caused agonizing pain in my left heel, therefore causing me to put increased pressure on my right knee. With 20 miles to trek, by the end a swollen right knee, left heel and ankle have led to some RICE as prescribed by RAJA - rest, ice, compression and elevation. Whether the chance to take more breaks along the way would have prevented this one never knows. Sure hope I will not have a repeat performance.
Home again. Now a bit of relaxed??? Time to reflect and blog about the last month. Before we left we had a great time with an all to short visit with our friend, Monika.
Monika and husband, Armen, are currently on their boat, Slamat, in the Phillipines. Monika came to visit a good friend in NZ and found out she was not far from us. Slamat was part of the RED SEA rally.
Driving down to Wellington, an amazing capital city, we met up with Cillian. Cillian crewed on Cobble, also on the RED SEA rally. We sailed with Cillian who is now lives aboard his boat, Meneluk. Cillian, from Ireland, works in Wellinton and is in the process of getting residency. We sailed quickly out to the historical, quarantine island now a reserve called Somes Island. Fast sail out but a real beat and numerous tacking getting back to the marina. Also further convinced Dan of why we want to keep Still Dreaming in the tropics. Brr.
From Wellington, one gets the car ferry to Picton in the South Island. For the van, round trip about $ 450.00 kiwi. Wellington is known for the wind. The forecast for the day we were to ferry to South Island, about 3 hours ,was for gale force winds. I said to Cillian, “Will they sail with that high of wind?” Cillian’s reply, “If they didn’t sail with a gale warning, they would never sail.” It turned out to be a great crossing, going and returning.
We stayed at some DOC (dept of conservation) campgrounds in a borrowed, “thank you, Andy and Mirjim” 4 wheel drive camper van by Mazda called a Bongo. Quite fun until after the hike dealing with the plantar fasciitis.
On a rainy day, here in NZ thought I would post a quick blog. We are looking forward to a friend coming from the US in June. I grew up with Sally in Belleville. After 40 plus years, (ugh!) we have reconnected (yes, via FB) and she is coming for a visit on her summer break from teaching in WI. I have warned her that it is winter here, but she is in for the adventure.
Speaking of adventure, I will finish the blog with the end of our South Island trip. After the hike, with a sore knee on the right leg and heel of the left foot our grand plans of more hiking were curtailed. We loved the town of Dunedin, traveled the beautiful Haas Pass and Arthur’s Pass through the mountains making our way north. Easter was spent in the hot baths at Hanmer Springs. Our 30th anniversary was the best. With absolutely no plans and thinking there would be no room at the inn on the holiday weekend we ended up at the end of the road looking over the bay in a small old inn that had a great restaurant downstairs and a few rooms to rent upstairs. The dated décor was great, a reminder of what the heyday of the town must have been like before it became a tourist mecca for the thousands driving their rental cars along the beautiful coast primarily to see the seals playing on the coastal rocks north and south of the town of Kai Koura.
We spent one more night camping before we again left on the ferry at Picton returning to Wellington and meeting up with Cillian again before we headed to Auckland. It was good to get home and begin projecting again. I leave that for Dan to blog about. We have an ongoing argu….discussion about whose blogs do our few readers enjoy most.
Hopefully the pictures below represent the flavor of NZ, a beautiful, quirky country that goes from the mountains to the sea, from the hilly vast farmland to the brillance of a great city in a matter of minutes.
Cover Up ------No, this is not a political blog entry.
When Mirjam’s parents Elzbeth & Gore, visited NZ we were bold enough to ask if Gore could do a painting for us? What we had in mind was to cover up the back of our refrigerator, which could be seen through the sliding glass door.
We had all enjoyed a nice day outing and visited a little known waterfall that is only about 15km from our house. You have to enter private land and climb over a couple of fences & make your way upstream to a very nice waterfall.
Gore is a wonderful artist and was always sketching and doing water color paintings of which we have two in our home. He said he would as we requested and we just left it up to him as to what he decided to paint. We departed to do our South Island tour.
Gore never works in acrylic paint nor a painting that stands two meters tall. We were most delighted by the waterfall scene upon our return!
It is wonderful to have talented giving friends. We thank you Gore, once again, for your art work and a wonderful “cover up.” What a beautiful way to welcome people into our home.
Cheers
Dan & Mary
We have been in New Zealand for 3 ½ years except for several trips to the US and Dan to Malaysia. In this time, we have accomplished our goals: permanent residency in New Zealand. In answer to many we are not going for citizenship. We have a visa in our US passports which says we are permanent residents of New Zealand. We have no time restrictions of coming into or leaving the country. Done and dusted!
We have made the interiors and exteriors of the house and cottage, for us, comfortable and attractive. No “have to” projects only “want to” when we return.
We are returning to Still Dreaming standing on land in Langkawi, Malaysia. Questions, do we sell or sail. If we sail, where to? First and foremost is to get ALL the myriad of projects completed before we can even put SD in the water. As Dan says we will probably be dealing with the proverbial “can of worms”. Stay cool, calm and collected! The temperatures in F are around low 80ties at night and high 90ties during the day, C is 25 night and 35 day. Malaysia is 6 degrees from the equator with high humidity. So much for staying cool.
The blog hopefully will be updated more frequently than of late. Sitting here gazing out from Andy and Mirjim’s dining room window at sailboats at anchor and sailing in the harbour across from downtown Auckland, on this beautiful day slowly inching toward Autumn, am excited to be flying off to Malaysia for a totally new adventure. We leave knowing that we have wonderful friends, a lovely home, and an incredibly beautiful country to return to whenever we choose to do so.
Malaysia, first thoughts as I enter this country. Smells. Entering into small tropical countries that already have too many people and then rely on tourism means GARBAGE! What to do with the amazing amounts of the garbage that humans create? I smelled it almost immediately upon landing at Kuala Lumpur, the capital of Malaysia which is now made famous, unfortunately, by the loss of the Malaysian airplane. My nose adjusted until in the middle of the night, at a very nice hotel set up for transiting tourists, the reeking odor of burning garbage woke me. Memories of smelling burning garbage at night swirled in my mind thinking if the tourists can’t see the burning pollution it must not exist.
Enough of that nonsensical thought. We have, in less than two days of being on the island of Langkawi, established internet connection with sim cards, activated the mobile, purchased the forgotten charger for the Canon camera, and bought charging adaptors for the Malaysian style plugs with extra extension cords. How nice to sit in bed and watch a Midsomer’s Mystery, as the air is nicely cooled by the whirl of the huge ceiling fan. We do have AC.
We have extended our stay in our bungalow with Dan talking to the manager for a reduced rate. Rate was cut by 50% from daily to weekly. Fits the budget nicely. The car is rented until tomorrow so the decision is continue to rent a car or get a motor scooter. Think we will opt for the motor scooter. If a time is needed for something larger, use a taxi. Dan has contacted the owner of the area where the boat is stored. We will visit this afternoon and begin to set up a project plan for Still Dreaming. We think the major project at hand is the rigging. That is Dan’s area to write about and if he does, the readers will know all they ever needed to know about rigging a boat. We will have to hire a rigger, first things first.
Food! We love Asian food. However, I have never been to a country in Southeast Asia or Asia. After two days of eating here, if it were for the food alone, I could live here. Short story, went into a local food stall area and we do mean local! Went to the lady and said chicken. She says “chicken and lice”, I say “yes”, she says “here” I say “yes” she says “sit down.” For 5 ringets, $1.75, the chicken and “lice” came, cooked to perfection, with cucumber mixed into the rice, the seasoning in the rice was excellent and the sliced chicken on top was excellent. Watching the lady take the cooked chicken off a hook, chop it with a huge meat cleaver to incredible bite size pieces laid over the rice was in itself entertaining. The chicken and “lice” also came with an incredible clear cabbage broth. No flys or bugs were seen anywhere. Another lady came up and asked “drink?” We asked for iced tea. Two brewed, delicious ice teas were served for 1 ringet which means about 17 cents each. Now I get the popularity of the travel eating shows in Southeast Asia and Asia. This from uninterested food type person.
Getting the ticks checked off the todo list and trying to keep sane!
The pxs below should say it all. Took a day off to play tourist and discover the island, which is easily done in two days with a car. Checked out the tallest peak on the island, about 900M, drove to” black sand” beach in which the sand is not really black, went to a waterfall with no water since this is the dry season, final stop a wine and beer looking over at one of the three marinas on the island. My mission was to look for places to have a fun afternoon when we need a break from the boat work. Once the rain comes, in about a month, swimming in the waterfall pools, with a picnic lunch will be perfect. A switch will be needed to shoo away a monkey or two!
The rains have started. Slowly. Reportedly, it has been months without rain. So when does the first rain come? When Dan is riding the newly rented 125 CC Suzuki motorbike 8 k from HO SIN motors in Kuah, the main city, to our bungalow. Rental for the motorbike is $ 68.00 US, including the helmets, a month. Dan bought a better helmet however. Owner of HO SIN motors looked at me and said, “NO speak English, only Malay and Chinese.” I said it was “okay, you are Chinese, you live in Malaysia.” We think his daughter helped us, very cute with a little English able to handle everything. As Dan started the bike it took maybe five seconds to turn over, the daughter says “OH, new battery.” Just on a whim Dan stopped at a tourist motor scooter, bike rental, cost $25.00 US a day.
We rode the bike 35 miles, 60K yesterday to visit friends we met on the Red Sea rally, Michel and Pilar. Great visit and a wonderful way to ease into the cruising lifestyle. Michel and Pilar, on their catamaran, Shelter, have cruised this whole area for the last two years so will be a wealth of knowledge. Pilar is originally from Spain and Michel is from France. She speaks fluent French, Spanish, Italian and very good English. They have been together for 35 years and Pilar laughed as she said Michel still does not know Spanish.
Meeting later at Still Dreaming to begin assessment and projecting. Cheers.
Dan is off to town to attempt to purchase a power washer for the boat. Gives me a moment to post a quick blog. Yesterday, we spent most of the afternoon at SD doing inventory and setting up arrangements to get the mast painted, or repainted since it was supposed to have been completed and such as we found it needs to be done again. The mast is laying atop some drums not far from the boat. The spreaders are inside the boat and the boom was “hell and gone” in another work yard laying in a trash heap by a fence. So far have NOT located the two PROFURL furlers for the head and stay sail. For nonsailers, a furling system is what is attached to the forward wire (stay) and sail allowing one person to wrap the sail around the wire that the sail is attached to with a line from the cockpit. For the sailors, did I do okay with the explanation? These systems are expensive and PROFURL is top of the line so would be nice to locate.
Thus almost the entire afternoon required for the “inventory” with lists such as locate, exterior projects, interior projects, buy, etc. etc!!!! Hm, will we ever sail again, will we see NZ and Swantlein again? Spirits are high and we are saying all is doable! Watched our last Midsomer’s Murder Mystery last night. Will be experiencing severe withdrawal until we know how we can get more. Cheers!
Break Out Another Thousand.
Dan and I are now watching past episodes of Grand Design. Great show from the UK! Usually there is some major calamity with the house project along with how much over budget it is? We can identify and empathize with our boat. Met with a rigger today. Work that was supposed to be done correctly was not so a portion of the project on the interior of the boat will need to be taken apart, refiberglassed, and reassembled before the mast can be put back. There was the daily screw up. On the up side, we found the elusive furling systems actually not far from the boat. Oh the yoyo life we lead. Tomorrow, we hope to get the estimate for painting the mast. Interesting note is the rigging gets his rigging from a company in Miami. I will not even go into money matters for the boat because I feel people reading this blog already think we are crazy so don’t want them to fully understand the lunacy of boating addictions. Sailing or boating friends will understand.
Daily update for all of our BFA, not “best friends always”, but Boating Friends Anonymous, AKA those addicted to this life style. We had a successful meeting with the new project coordinator, Barry. He gave the cost of spot sand blasting, filling the corroded pitted areas, priming, and painting mast and boom and all came in under our budgeted price. He spoke with Chris, the rigger, and with our approval will make some rigging modifications that will probably save us a lot, we mean a lot of money. Spoke with Rob, the fiberglass man, who will take a look tomorrow at the interior chain plate tie downs at the fiberglassed attachment points to the hull. This is the area that at least on the port side needs to be redone. A good day.
For fun we had lunch at a beach side café and for the first time since arriving here, I, Mary, stuck my feet in the Andaman Sea. We saw our first monitor lizard, about 2 1/2 to 3 feet in length. Langkawi comes from two old Malay words meaning “strong eagle”. You can see them flying overhead. As of yet, we have not been able to get a good picture. Is this place growing on us? or better yet, are we starting to adjust to the Island?
As the saying goes “another day, another dollar.” Arrived at the boat to see Rob, the fiberglass man, hard at work. Alas, what he found opened up another proverbial “can of worms.” From our BFA, Boating Friends Anonymous, we will receive sympathy and empathy, from all others we will receive something like “you pitiful people, whatever possessed you to want to go cruising in the first place?” With that said, the port and starboard tie down rods, set internally into the hull, were not properly put in place and need to be totally removed and put together as they should have been. Again if interested, let Dan know and he can explain in detail. I generally knew what happened but now that the boat is totally taken apart, seeing it, and having it explained what was done incorrectly and what needs to be done makes sense. Could an analogy be we know what the lungs do, how they work, etc. but if something does go wrong we still can’t see it?Best to see it with our own eyes or the best physician’s eyes. If it was fixed improperly, get more information to solve the problem and do it again. Get on with it and oh that $$$$, add it to the bill.
Saw an eagle! It is the huge statue one sees when coming into Langkawi on the people ferry. New Zealand, an absolutely beautiful country that we are so happy to call our land home base is an incredible tourist destination, one of the best in the world. Yet, I realize, so many tourists are basically Westerners, coming from Europe, US, Oz etc. However, more Chinese and Japanese are reportedly coming our way.
Here, in a small touristy island in Southeast Asia, people are from everywhere! Young Westerner backpackers, families from China, Korea, India, Europe, etc. etc. Let us not forget the cruising sailors, they certainly are recognizable. The people – family dynamics, the clothing, the religions, blended, colourful, interactive, and all having FUN! I could have done a complete picture portfolio of the different nationalities asking other nationalities for group pictures in front of the eagle.
When cleaning out underneath the boat we saw the little guy pictured below. He was under a pallet next to the keel. Furiously I-Padding Malaysian Lizards proved unsuccessful until we came upon a picture of this character. He is a Tokay Gecko, the world's second largest Gecko species. Since he was about 10",30cm in length, I assumed a lizard, dah! Nocturnal, so we woke the poor creature up. We also I -Padded the noises these characters make. Answered our questions of what in the hell we are hearing at night! Talk about a loud croaking noise?
Boat update. Chris, the rigger, looked at the new situation with the tie downs for the chain plates. He is presently working on a mega yacht in the next and I will say POSH workyard. His wife died of a brain tumor in Thailand last January and he will be returning to Capetown, S A, where he is from to explain and be with family next month from the 10 to the 20th. After his return, he stated he will complete our project. What do you do with this information and situation? For those of you, like us, who love the movie "Animal House," you yell "ROAD TRIP." Since my 65th birthday was put on hold and we are soon to celebrate our anniversary we are adding up reasons to travel. My vote is Cambodia to Ankor Wat to see, as our dear friend, Sandi Egli, says "old stones."
After a lovely rain last night with thunder, it really must be that the monsoon season is starting. When spring begins to emerge in Michigan we begin to do the fertility, regrowth, new beginnings, first sighting of a Robin, etc. craziness of YES, there is life after a long winter. So it is with the dry season here. We felt like going out and dancing, cannot sing, in the rain. We are sure however, that after a certain period of RAIN, RAIN! we will moan “will it ever stop?” Like after a hot summer, can’t wait for Autumn as they say “down under”, I still say Fall, to see the leaves turn to the varied hues and the cooling off to begin. We humans are never satisfied, are we?
Back to the critter! Snake on the porch. Since we are surrounded by trees, I will assume from my Google browsing that it was a Paradise Tree Snake. Beautiful as long as it stays on the porch. I keep looking at the cm, half inch gap under the narrow French doors leading from the porch inside to make sure.
Dan returned from town with a nice present. Chivas Regal and two perfect whisky or should I write whiskey glasses. Langkawi is duty free, so even though it is a Muslim country, the alcohol is CHEAP!!! Depending on your perspective, not so good or very good for a high consumer of alcohol.
Boat update, cleaning out and installing more components for extension cords with Malaysian plug ends. I had my usual meltdown as to why the workers emptied cabinets, which needed to be removed from the bulkhead to do the tie rods which need to be totally redone, leaving piles of gear and metals on the wood floor and on a huge suede saloon settee cushion leaving rusted imprints ruining the 27 year old suede for good.
I rather enjoyed that glass of Chivas Regal on our porch upon our return.
Confessions are good for the soul or the appetite. When in the highlands of Guatemala, we quietly sneaked out for a Burger King. The American friends we were with harangued about the travesty of how US fast food places were ruining the rest of the world. On the Balearic Island of Majorca in the Mediterranean, a Canadian friend sailing with us for a few weeks, almost had a coronary because we had a McDonalds. He refused to go inside, instead throwing a fit outside and while laughing, we ate our Big Macs and drank a wine. Love Spain! I always say the best view of the Champs-Elysees in Paris is on the second floor of the McDonalds in which you have a terrific view of the Arc de Triomphe and the Place de le Concorde with its obelisk.
I broke my glasses and as we go to the optical shop in a huge modern mall, remember duty free means CHEAPER for name items, IE Ralph Lauren, we pass the McDonalds. Enough said. Once every two years won’t kill us, will it?
Boat update. Still waiting to hear from rigger and project coordinator regarding the rigging. Any day the painting on the mast should start???? We removed the 5 halyards yesterday and ran messenger lines. Not fun in plus 90 F 30 C heat. Went to cushion Eddie regarding new cushions. We did not like any of the fabrics. Stopped at another recommended place and did like several fabrics. Word from one source is they prefer Cushion Eddie’s work versus the other place. Buy fabric and let Cushion Eddie sew it. Why is it NEVER simple? I live by the KISS method – keep it simple stupid.
Dan has removed the tie down rod on the port side that was embedded in 3M5200! Took four hours, remember that heat factor?!!!
I Love TRIP ADVISOR
Do you peruse TRIP ADVISOR just for the laughs. One person gives a place a one or two and says all he/she hated about it while the very next comment gives the place a four or a five describing why they love it which are the exact same reasons the person before hated it! I read TRIP ADVISOR about where we are staying before we came. I was expecting to find the hotel from THE SHINING! Creepy, eerie, stuck in the middle of the jungle, employees can’t speak English, dirty, bugs everywhere, and on,on,on. On the plus side, people liked it because it was indeed in the jungle, away from the busy beaches and towns, quiet, on and on. Since being here and now staying long term paying 20 US a day, I treat it like an apartment. We are within walking distance of a lovely tourist restaurant and very close to restaurants for the locals, 10 minutes from the main city of Langkawi, Kuah, and 10 minutes from the boat. I do not want or need it cleaned everyday and through what little English the employees know and hand gestures, I get the needed supplies. I need to learn Malay. We are the minority here with most of the guests being Malay, Indonesian, Indian, Thai, etc. so maybe the not speaking English is because not everywhere is it spoken and not everyone who travels speaks it???
Boat update!! Met with Chris, the rigger, and Barry, the project coordinator, regarding rigging, tie rods, etc. Price came within our budget, which is always great news especially for those of us living within a budget! Dan was able to get the chain plates out, scraping away the 3M5200, wiggling, prying, yanking, swearing and sweating! I am water blasting/cleaning rope, floor boards, fenders, etc. Just wrote up an e mail to send to the Rolly Tasker sail company which now has a rep in Langkawi. Fingers crossed with getting new main, head sail, sail track system, spinnaker repair, list goes on, coming in within budgeted price frame.
Praise to the gods and goddesses, work has begun. When arriving at the boat yesterday, we found not one but two workers removing small corroded pitted areas on the aluminium mast. That was Thursday. No work on Friday. In countries with Islam as the primary religion, Friday rather than Sunday is the day of rest, as it were. Therefore, no work and local shops closed. However, like the world over, places that cater to the tourists are open, hopping, and popping. It takes a while to get used to, how engrained one becomes to Western or countries that are Christian faith based with Sunday as the end of the week. Here it is Friday. Saturday is like a Monday.
Ordered a new stove. Remember the acronym of BOAT. It also follows that if you absolutely have to buy a marine item, hike, and hike up some more the price. The stove is propane, needs to be gimballed, and fit into a space that fits the curve of the hull. We are ordering the Force Ten stove through what is called Port Supply, the dealer version of West Marine, same exact catalogue that is in the US. Great that there is no duty but alas the shipping costs.
Remember, this is the woman who says she is not into food. Here I go again. A small open air restaurant not far from our bungalow has this dish called Rojak. Pictured below, it is delicious. I asked the lady what is was and with her very limited English she said vegetables and sauce which looked to me like chocolate. Vegetables and chocolate? Ugh. Okay will try it. Okay, am addicted. The sauce is chocolate toffee tasting with amazing spices. There are many versions of this dish, the one at this place is the Penang Rojak. Also had the Malay version of chicken noodle soup, what these people do with spices is amazing. I said that already, didn't I? We had a Kiwi smoothie (wonder why NZ doesn’t have this?) and ice tea. Dan had a fish noodle soup. Total cost in USD about $4.50.
The first great commandment is: keep the water out of the boat.
The second is: keep the boat off the rocks
Everything else can be worked out!
No water in the boat because the boat is out of the water and no rocks around. Therefore it is onto the last line: boldly stated “everything else can be worked out.” This is truly the motto we live by along with my "this too shall pass".
Cannot believe we have been here a month. Need a break. Friday, three hour ferry ride to the Island of Penang to stay for three days in the capital of Penang, Georgetown. Our quest is to look for upholstery for saloon settee and material for hatches and saloon windows. Our guy, Cushion Eddie, came and measured telling us how much we need. Also, just a thought here, we may go sightseeing and partake of the cuisine in a place that according to ye olde Lonely Planet is nicknamed the ‘Pearl of the Orient.’ So will keep this short as the next blogs may be “gagging” with pxs and information about places such as the Pinang Peranakhan Mansion or the one near our small hotel, the Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion.
First off, our quest to get material for the cushions and windows fell drastically short. Literally, while in a recommended shop with probably hundreds of vertical rolls of fabrics and as many on the wall, there were three that were cushion material and not to our liking. While I was asking the staff person if he knew of other shops, “what the hell?” rolls of fabric came cascading in a domino effect around me and the gentleman. Dan standing about 20 feet, 6 or so meters behind us accidently bumped a roll of fabric with his backpack causing a few, okay like at least 50 or more to topple over. Well that was fabric tale for Penang. Onto plan, what are we up to C, D, E?
Spent two days playing tourist in the old town of Georgetown (capitol) of the Island Malaysian State of Penang. Since this is my first experience in Southeast Asia thought I could write second experience but a Google search said technically India is a subcontinent or south Asia. Countries east of India are noted as Southeast Asia. Anyway, back to Georgetown, my thought is forget traveling all over Hell’s half acre, as it were, and just go there to experience Indian and Southeast Asian cultures. Have never been to a city in which in one block you pass the Mosque, the Indian Hindu Temple, the Chinese Temples, etc. The people, food, shopping in old town all reflect the inner city life of these cultures and then throw in the tourists! Egad, would say 'oy veh' or 'my lord' but didn’t see a synagogue or a Christian church either, at least not in the old part of the town. Will end for now and let some pictures do the talking.
Taking a day off to give our backs a break, no pun intended, well yes there is. We took 5 batteries, 65lb, 30k each, out of the boat using blocks and a winch and placing them on the swim platform. Again, using blocks and the winch hoisted them over the side and down to the ground. Still needed to do some lifting creating creaky backs. Alas one battery made it to about 10’, 3 m and crash, the strap broke. 8 new batteries will be delivered to the boat and the reverse will happen of getting the darn things up, in and installed. We are getting three additional batteries to increase the capacity, 5 for the house, two for the starting and one for the anchor windlass.
Back to the backs! No wonder people learning English have such a difficult time with the vocabulary, ‘back to the backs’, I love it. I found the old TENS unit on the boat and with a new battery it works! Upon returning to the bungalow, after a great meal, a couple of IBU profen, crank that TENS unit up to ZING, a glass a wine, a good book to read, the ceiling fan and AC cranking away, as our friend Bob often said “life is good”.
Getting new neighbours at the boatyard. A couple came up and introduced themselves. From California. Unfortunately, they are headed to their land home in a few days for 8 months. A bit shorter than our 2 years. They have been sailing in Indonesia, Thailand and the Andaman Islands for 18 months. I can appreciate the need for a break. Well, the way we are going, we may be in the same spot when they return. Heaven forbid!
Before we went cruising in 1996, Dan and I soaked up as much info as we could ie. reading, seminars, summer sailing vacations on the Great Lakes. In one seminar, in Detroit as I recall, we went to listen to a still well known sailor by the name of Jimmy Cornell. In the Q and A after the lecture, a question was asked and answered that has and will always be part of my sailing and maybe even life tenets. The question, short and profound, “what is the ONE best piece of advice you can give to wannabe cruisers?” The answer “do not go to sea with a land mentality.” Why am I pondering this point? We met cruising two couples in the work yard, complaining, blah-blah-blah about the yard, the delays, the Malaysian workers, on and on. Wanting to be part of the conversion, I casually mentioned, “we have sailed to many places and have been in yards worse than this.” One woman rudely!!! said “ I have also sailed all over the world and this is the worst” Whoa, Nelly! I introduced myself, interjected a few places, one in Turkey, and one in the US and quietly left. I don’t think I said I have sailed all over the world because I haven’t but do feel that 5 Great Lakes, the Eastern Seaboard of the US from Maine to Key West, Bahamas (Abacos), Cuba, Western Caribbean, two oceans, two seas, 23 countries(you get the point) I can have an opinion.
What does this have to do with the sea/land mentality? If you want to go cruising and really truly sail, you learn to wait!!! Too much wind, too little wind, the tide… If you want to sail to countries that are not considered first world, you learn to wait…. If you want to sail to a specific place you understand the culture, the country, the people, if you don’t like it, how wonderful that you can sail away. One of the most beautiful countries I have ever seen and also one the filthiest is Guatemala. I prefer to keep the memory of the beauty.
I guess this lady who has sailed ‘all over the world’ has simply sailed to different destinations than I have. However, I still get an inkling somehow she has a land mentality. Nothing wrong with it, it is amazing how fast I change once I get back to my home, car, shopping centers, ordering stuff on the internet and like zoom it is at my doorstep in no time flat, NZ is great with this! When sailing, I try to remember the commandment, "you just work it out." Humor and the best sailing partner ever also helps.
I can sum it up by Kiera, at age 10, saying so emphatically, “OH, I could never live there.” when Dan, Cappi, told her he had to drive over 25 minutes to the nearest pizza place.
Relaxing on the porch/deck, reading a deliciously gruesome murder mystery, suddenly a family of macaques raced past along the ground into the trees. At night, occasionally a loud cannon like sound booms and the assumption is it is to warn off these guys. After a month or so they find their way back and as I looked over the deck I saw why. Into spring and shortly into summer, the tree beside us is bearing fruit. What fruit? Have no clue, will try to find out but do know that the macaques love it.
Boat news, lordy, lordy! Dan was observed cleaning out a tool locker. A man and his tools, I say no more! Oh hell, I will say more, a man who lives on a boat and his tools!! Okay enough said. Lockers are getting cleaned out, thanks to the gods and goddesses, the dumpster is not far away. The mast is getting painted, took out the 8 old dorades and ordered new ones. For nonboating friends, that is the smart guys out there, a dorade is an air scoop to funnel air into the boat. Dan ordered the new stove today. When it comes, installed, and we are happy will write up the ORDEAL of the stove and give it enough time to see the humour of it all.
Dan is off to town to renew mobile data and I, thinking it may rain, decided to say “No, I will just stay home and BLOG it.” Good move, he has only been away for ten minutes and I hear thunder. As you can see from one of the pxs, when it rains it rains like UH, in the jungles of Southeast Asia. Basically two seasons, dry and wet! In west Malaysia, I was expecting days and days of rain. No, quite like southern Florida actually. A lovely afternoon shower and often in the night. Sunshine most of the day.
Took a day off to go for a ride to the far western edge of the island for a walk to the 7 Pools. A little touristy but not bad. It helps to be going places and doing the “tourist thing” in the off season. Nice hike up through the unspoilt jungle to the rock pools and water fall. All made better by stopping at a local eatery for true Malaysian fare! NO WAY, immediately rode to the flash marina complex, about 6 k away, and scarfed down one pizza there and took the other home. Of course, the pizza place is a restaurant chain. Two on the island, one at each end.
Boat update! Shame for shame for shame. Look at the px of the winches. Talk about dirty! Think we will be smart enough next time to cover them. Surprisingly, they all turned, some just sounded a little, okay, a lot grindy and gritty! I hear that thunder again, hopefully Dan does not get too wet. Those winches, spent two solid days cleaning and lubricating. My nails have never ever looked so disgusting. I will never speak ill of a mechanic’s nails again. Have replaced the hatch gaskets and are in the process of replacing the galley faucets. Stove has been shipped from Seattle WA, rigging has been shipped from Miami FL. Sailing??? Is THAT what we are supposed to be doing?
What is the saying, “If it were not for bad luck, I would have no luck at all”? We are taking a vacation in early June. Plans are to fly from Langkawi to Siem Reap, Cambodia to visit Angkor Wat. These ancient sites have been on the “would love to do someday” list for years. After Cambodia, we have been exploring the idea of doing a HELPX visit in Sapa in the northern regions of Vietnam by the Chinese border. HELPX is an organization told to us by friend, Bryon, regarding traveling to places and working for a few hours in exchange for place to stay. We thought it a great way to meet people and stay active. Anyway, contacted a place needing assist with teaching English and building projects. Also on the “would love to do list someday” is sailing and diving in the Philippines.
What is in the news of late? Damn governments (Chinese, Vietnam, Philippines) are at it regarding territory, sea and land, which surprise, surprise has oil. We will see how situation progresses. Our honeymoon in Honduras was shrouded by border wars with Honduras and Nicaragua. Traveling down the Red Sea with the Somali pirates was a bit intimidating. Driving by rental car from Belize to Tikal in Guatemala was probably crazy, as area was noted for bandits. How much is true and how much is media hype one never knows. We do play it safe.Have you just read the news, Thailand!! We are approximately 30 miles from the Thailand border. Have talked about sailing there after we get the boat in the water to go to Phuket to get some canvas work done. Egads!
Everything on the island of Langkawi is progressing. Snail’s pace but inching forward. The snail’s pace is the main reason for the needed break. Also our three month visa is up, then out for at least three days before re-entry. It is not anyone’s fault, just the way it is. Turns out parts for the rigging needed to be fabricated, where? England, then shipped to US to be shipped with the rest of it to here. Should be here Friday??? Thank you Toby for assist in shipping new stove! It is in and looks beautiful. Tomorrow gas hook up. First dinner will be in your honor.
I would love to think of us as totally ecologically minded. Whether on land or sea we live simply, no microwaves, no air con, etc. However, sad to say when I arrive at the ‘pearly gate’ someone will say “You did what? You chose to fly from where to where and you had what shipped all over hell’s half acre?” Our stove went from Seattle,Oakland,Alaska,China, to here. Come to think of it, doesn’t this relate to what this territorial turmoil is all about?
When visiting places, especially islands, we would jokingly decide when it was time to depart. In the Bahamas and Central America, it was when we became all too familiar with the freely roaming island dogs which were not cute at all, not unfriendly just not cute, earning the name of FUIDs from us, Ugly Island Dogs, will omit the F for the ubiquitous F word. Here, in Langkawi, we have noted that we can finally navigate the island without a map, of which is terrible, the map that is, and did result in a number of wrong turns. Unfortunately, boat is far from completion. Maybe our great grandchildren will want to take it over. So, with faith and trust in the rigger, when the rigging comes in we have given the go ahead to continue work if we are on our break in Cambodia. If anyone has travelled in the lower Americas, they are familiar with “manana” asking when anything and everything will be ready. Here it is “next week.”
Celebrated Dan’s birthday at our favourite beach bar with fish and chips and a swim in the sea. On another off day from boat work, took a nice cycle ride to go for a swim in a waterfall pool. Only ones there, lovely. At times, like this, I say to myself, “Quit bitchin’, life is pretty darn sweet.”
Dan has been doing a lot. Not knowing the locations of stores for the needed work items, he asks Barry, the owner of the ship yard. Barry, from South Africa, has been here over 6 years. He does not know the names of any stores, just “you can get it at the Chinaman’s place” and provides directions only a teeny bit better than the map of the island. Now, please note that ALL the stores here are owned by the elusive Chinaman. Maybe it is time to leave when you know all the stores selling boat ‘stuff’ or at least all of the Chinaman’s stores.
Exploring ancient temples including Angkor Wat, river travel past floating villages, exploring the countryside by tuk-tuk, adventure ridden bus ride to Kampot to finally relaxing at a young backpacker's place along a river. Won't write much in this blog as more difficult on I Pad. Just a few observations. Cambodia, wow the poverty, the resolve, the people trying to come back after the atrocities and genocide by the Khymer Rouge and the United States only a few generations ago. Even though the US was already doing bombing raids before, Nixon gave the go ahead in 1970 to kill well over 100,000 Cambodians. Then the Khymer Rouge murdered millions. The people by far have been kind and honest. A simple "no" to the begging children, they smile and go away.
We boarded a bus in Battambang to go from the north west to the town of Kampot in the south. We were told same bus would take us with a stop in Phnom Penh . Overnight bus which we boarded at ten had no problems getting us to the Capitol by 3:30 in the morning. Told to get off the bus and get another. Off the bus, waited about 30 minutes. Now fully awake listening to a young, think American woman, beseech a Cambodian bus driver to stop watching the Soccer World Cup and get the bus going for her to catch a flight. Quite a show on her part. Man said nothing just watched the game on the outdoor tv. Finally, we were told to board a bus, man on bus looked at tickets said no not this bus, man off the bus said yes that is the bus, man on bus said get off the bus. Of course, our back packs are also going on the bus, off the bus. We finally leave on that bus. The children's song " people on the bus" kept going through my mind, changed to the " people get on and off the bus". Bus starts breaking down about every 5 miles. Clunk, clunk, clunk. Bus stops, driver and attendants grab tool lit, climb under the back wheel and tighten, 5 miles down the road, bus breaks down. A young man from Toronto was traveling to Kampot also. When we changed onto another small bus in the middle of no where, he was sleeping. I asked him later did he realize how often the bus broke down, he said "
Oh, I thought they were pee breaks." Need to chill for a few days, which we trying to do as I write.
Home again, on Still Dreaming, after 5 weeks in Cambodia and Vietnam. I think the pictures can describe the journey best so will blog snippet stories of the adventure. So excited to get away from boat projects by boarding a plane, Malaysia Air, you may have heard of this airlines, from the Island of Langkawi, short layover in Kuala Lumpur then direct to Siem Riep, Cambodia. First headache at the check in. Not on the list. With e-ticket in hand, not concerned. Older check in person gave job over to younger gent who clicked away with finally saying something to the effect “You are not going directly to Siem Riep (a less than two hour flight by the way) you are flying to Bangkok ( Thailand, ah wrong country sir) then to Siem Riep, Cambodia. Okay no boarding passes to get through transfer areas, what planes, time involved, we were getting picked up at the airport in Siem Riep at 1300, 1:00 pm, all these thoughts flashing through the mind which was a few minutes before, so going to enjoy being on vacation! My thoughts were Malaysia Air, at least is telling me I am going the wrong way, sorry bad joke. Flew to Kuala Lumpur, capital of Malaysia, about a 40 minute flight, man waiting for us as we entered the terminal, walked us to the immigration transfer station with the new boarding passes on Thai Air. Perfect, arrived in Bangkok, man waiting for us upon entering the terminal, escorted us through the transfer station, security check, to the desk of Bangkok Air to receive boarding passes to Siem Riep, and then to the first class lounge to wait for the flight. Up shot, can they cancel more flights so we can get this great treatment? So through three airlines, we arrived about 1800, 6:00 pm in Siem Riep, Cambodia. Dan had been able to contact the guest house to tell them about the delay.
Pictures below were taken in Siem Reap, the second largest city in Cambodia close to the biggest tourist attraction in the country, the Temples of Angkor Wat.
As Dan is working with the rigger putting in the new halyards (ropes on the mast to pull up the sails), I will sit luxuriously in front of the fan and blog it. The next few blogs, I won’t go into much detail because as the title suggests is it easy to get stoned out. Dan did frequently on this part of the journey as I am a wee bit more fascinated by the ruins of successful past civilizations and curious as to what led to their demise.
The Temple of Angkor Wat is what is widely known, thus the name of a favourite Cambodian beer. If a beer is named after something it better be good. During the nightmare years of the Khmer Rouge landmines were buried everywhere, so as you walk between these incredible temples and ruins of a peaceful past empire, you are warned “do not go off the paths”!!!!!
A Wat is a buddist temple. We spent two full days, one visiting Angkor Thom and the next day Angkor Wat. There are many more in the area. I felt if I would have suggested another day of visiting ruins to Dan, he would have wanted to “stone” me or better yet stay back at the guesthouse and get “stoned.” Thank you in advance for not commenting on my feeble attempts at being funny, punny, or phunny.
As we were sitting on a bench after visiting a site in Ankgor Wat, a young Asian couple started taking pictures. Since we thought they were photographing the bas reliefs in the wall behind us we moved to one side. “No, no” with hand gestures, “stay where you are”. They were taking our picture. We laughed and politely smiled for the camera and waved as they walked away. A few minutes later they reappeared with another young man and with hand communication totally understood, wanted to take their picture with us. So the young 20 something Asian couple got their picture with the 60something Caucasians, complete with the thumbs up from us and the two finger V sign sideways in front of the face from them. Totally unclear on our part but they were extremely thankful. We didn’t take a picture this time but when it happened again with some young ladies from Vietnam, we were ready. What do you think? Seeing two almost white haired people with day backpacks hiking around the temples. Have no clue. We hired a guide and tuk-tuk in Battambang, Cambodia for two days. He politely asked our ages on day two. His comment was that most Cambodians in their 60ties were at home taking care of the grandchildren. When leaving Angkor Wat and walking across a field to small open air cafes, we decided to have lunch. We approached a Cambodian lady as she beckoned us to her café. As we were sitting down, her comment to me was “You strong for old lady.” Left handed compliment for sure but when we stopped laughing I knew that would be my mantra for this whole adventure and for maybe the life that I live.
Okay, one more set of temple pictures and I will give the “old stones” a break!
There are two ways to get to Battambang Cambodia, by road which meant riding the bus, or on a boat up the river. In the low rain season, which it still was, the boat ride was nine hours and the bus ride three. The cost of the bus much cheaper than the boat. Of course, we take the boat. The tourist minded person that I am, I think it will be a nice tourist boat with a guide. Au contraire, mon cheri, it is the local traffic boat that is the way the people living on the river get from one place to another. Packed in with numerous locals there were a few young backpackers and a lovely family from OZ with two preteen children. “Packed in” is the operative term here. We laughed wondering about the tourist ticket amount compared to the local.
Wouldn’t have missed it for the world. The floating villages in the middle of a large lake that we passed through are exactly that, large floating villages. Once onto the river the homes were built on stilts over the water. The boat would suddenly slow down as we passed a home or store on the water. Suddenly a person in a dug out canoe would appear using a pole, come up to our boat and the following would occur: boxes would be offloaded, boxes would be onloaded, people would get off, people would get on. It was done quickly, efficiently, with little discussion, and without our boat hardly slowing down. Old people, young people, parents with children and babies. I kept thinking the only way to know when to do this was through a mobile but never heard one. In reality the boat stopped totally only twice. One when the captain had to go “wee” off the back and when we took a 20 minute rest stop at a small restaurant/store, again built on stilts over the river. Needing to go “wee” myself, I was surprised there were two places side by side at the back. One for women and one for men. I had a toilet over the hole in the floor looking down into the river. Dan remarked his was just the hole in the floor. See there are some benefits of needing to sit at all times.
If my kind friends/family have stayed with me with the Cambodian travels, good on “ya”. Two major, I mean major boat projects can be checked off the list so will blog it and get it off my chest.
Remember, way, I mean way back when, we started this whole Malaysian boat fiasco with pictures of the mast laying on its side. I think that was in March, 2014. On July 8, 2014, our sailing boat STILL DREAMING became a real sailboat again! No, no nothing like with sails and sailing in the water. Perish the thought of that happening soon. However, the 69’6” extremely heavy mast is rigged with all of the new gobbedly gook wires and ropes, ie. shrouds and halyards attached. A huge crane arrived at 10:30 to lift the mast onto the boat in its total erect position. Best to explain with the pictures that follow. If you read this and find it exciting and think to yourself I would love to get into the sailing lifestyle then possibly someone could connect you with a good therapist. If you read it and think Mary and Dan are crazier than you originally thought, you are OKAY! I keep seeing dollars signs flash before my eyes as I think of cost of this venture. Still Dreaming has taken us across two oceans and two seas, through too much wind, not enough wind, times of boredom, times of sheer terror, and times of incredible joy! She has taken care of us and we have to do the same. The bottom line is when we or whomever goes sailing on her, Still Dreaming will be safe, secure, and back to the absolutely phenomenal sailing vessel that we set off in from Norfolk Virginia, in July of 2001 to sail across the Atlantic, the same day we found out we were to become grandparents for the first time. Our beautiful granddaughter, Kiera, will be 13 the end of February.
After the rather interesting bus ride from Battambang to Kampot, we chilled for a few days at a very layed back backpackers by the river. Would have stayed longer but they were needing to do a bug spray, so no rooms for a few days. We went in town to a place called Magic Sponge, loved it! Owner, about our age, grew up in Oklahoma and Alaska. We decided we needed a day of fun (isn’t everyday of a vacation supposed to be fun?) Saw an advert for “Climbodia” caving, abseiling (aka repelling) and doing the ferrata?? Ferrata you ask? Hiking along a rock ledge using an attached line. Asked William, owner of Magic Sponge, what he thought since his advert was in his Guest House. He said that all guests that had gone loved it. Well, we went and we also gave it the two thumbs up. Met with 35 year old Belgium, David, at Magic Sponge on Thursday and discussed over a beer and wine what we were going to do on Saturday afternoon. It totally increased our excitement. Pictures that follow will show what I felt were some of the most beautiful views of Cambodia. We had David, our excellent guide, his assistant Sehya,19, a local young man whose parent’s owned the restaurant nearby where Dan chowed down on a dish of barbecued dog.
Thoughts of “you strong for old lady” flashed through my mind with us being David’s oldest customers to date. This “old” business is getting a bit (just have to say it) OLD. His youngest were around 10. Laughter, challenges, excitement, awe, gaining awareness, learning history, good people, feeling empowered, beautiful sights, the list goes on and on. How’s that for $35.00 dollars a person for an afternoon of lifelong memories?
Too hot to work outside, Dan shopping, so decided to sit in front of the fan on the boat and blog it. Actually there is a fan to the front, one to the side and one to back! I am not totally wasting my time as I am waiting for the “cushion man” to come and finish putting in the new settee cushions around the saloon table. I was going start a blog called “Good Morning or rather Good Afternoon Viet Nam” and say we finally made it! Viet Nam has been one of those “would like to do someday if the opportunity presents itself.” Not really a bucket list thing but you get the point. I could not say good bye to Cambodia just yet. One of the pictures below says it all. We visited a genocide site in Battambang. I told Dan I was definitely not strong enough to see the “killing fields” and genocide memorial outside of Phenm Penh. I will close the Cambodian chapter by saying the people in this small poor country nestled between fast growing Malaysia, Thailand, and Vietnam (all doing well economically) get my respect and admiration. Just a question here, could we,as Americans, come back to live our lives as well as the Khmer are trying to do after athousands of people were killed during the Viet Nam war with America and then the years of absolute total nightmare in which millions were murdered, children between the ages of 3 and 9 taken from the parents, the horrors continue, caused by the Khmer Rouge that occurred less than 40 years ago?
Didn't want to close on such a sour note. The Cambodian Circus in Battambang, also giving performances in Siem Reap is probably how Circus Soleil started. These performers are terrific! From poor areas,an NGO and WOW! Circus Soleil should have a permanent scout here. There is also an art school.The bamboo train, take off the track when meeting a coming train, put on the track and go. Now for tourists but used in the past for transporting goods.
Vietnam, even the name of the country may bring a torrent of emotions. I will not opine about who won or lost the “American War” as Vietnamese call it or the” Vietnam War “as Americans call it, ideologies, etc. I will simply say" WOW", 39 years ago the southern part of this country was ravaged by war. To see it now is incredible. The people, the energy, the vibe! Okay, I am already trashing my previous words. We sailed to Cuba in 1997 (beautiful country, beautiful people). I am merely asking here, if readers of this blog have remarks please let me know. We found the Cuban people to be struggling, poor, and the country relying on USD. Never bombed, to my knowledge, no chemical warfare like in Vietnam, no mass killings reported. The Viet Nam involvement went on for over 20 years. Yet, when we sailed to Cuba in 1997, after becoming independent in 1960, the country was absolutely struggling: food, toiletries, everyday necessities were simply not to be found.
Vietnam, first country in this area we have travelled to using their own money (dong) only, no relying on USD as a backup currency. We observed construction, new infrastructure, new airports, with several Vietnam airlines. Did they receive funds from other governments, as did Cuba? Would think so! Why is this country thriving when we found Cuba so in need?
Riding a small bus, about 20 passengers max, we rode from Kampot to the most southern border between Cambodia and Viet Nam. One poor guy,50 -60ish, sounded Italian with limited English, thought he could get his visa at the border. Only at the airports. We obtained our visas in Kampot, waiting three days, as passports were sent to another city for processing. This gentleman left us with a wave to wait at the border for another bus for a very long ride back to wait in Cambodia for his visa. He did not appear nonplussed by it all, actually. Took it all in stride.
Anyway, what do I see at the border besides motorcycles and people on the motorcycles carrying herculean amounts of everything? Building, construction going on next to the WHAT – a huge casino that is also new. Viva Las Vegas???!!!! No Viva Viet Nam. Will admit here that the building was right at the border, somewhat a no man’s land between Cambodia and Vietnam. Build it and those tourists will come with those tourist dollars. We did go into a huge casino/hotel flash resort on a mountain top outside of Kampot, a very poor town. While having a drink in the bar, we noticed we truly were the only westerners, most people were Chinese.
Choice! The luxury of having a choice. The way one travels, the way one lives! Phu Quoc ( F, long o, Quck) Island is the largest island in Vietnam and a contentious issue as Cambodia still would like to claim it. If you look on a map you can see why. In the Gulf of Thailand, right at the border. Happens everywhere. Isle Royal, technically a part of Michigan. Closer to Canada and Minnesota, but a part of the Great Lakes state it is. As we sailed to Isle Royal in 1987 from Copper Harbor, a 50 mile sail, I thought ‘23 miles from Canada, 50 from MI, am sure there is logic here but it does escape me.’
We could have stayed at the elite resorts on Phu Quoc. No, we chose to go to a small beach resort on the other end of the island. Dan had a fit when he heard the taxi price to get us there, even the dear driver had to call for directions as he missed a road in the middle of nowhere. Dan finally relented and whispered something to the effect that all in all the taxi price was not bad as I could only think of my dear mother who would have said “ We are driving to hell and gone”. It had a wonderful little open air restaurant and a nice family running it. The room was extremely clean, airy, comfortable and quiet enough to continually hear the ocean's waves. The only people who could speak English were the 15 year old daughter and very tiny 16 year old son. Parents just smiled! One little brother, about 10, did not like his picture taken. I was taking I Pad pxs one day and I motioned for him to come to me. He scowled, shook his head “NO” until I handed HIM the I PAD for him to take the pictures. Made a friend there for sure.
We were the only westerners staying overnight. One day, a group of about 8 Russian tourists, showed up for a beach day. They were not using the chairs or umbrellas. The 16 year old came up to me and said, “How do I tell them free to use umbrellas and chairs?” I said to just set it up for them and walk away. The Russians ended up staying the whole day, drinks, lunch, etc. The day we left, the whole group returned for another day. Mind you they didn’t complain about the taxi ride there and back to the town plus paying a driver to stay there the whole day to wait for them. Guess the bottom line, for us, is we did make the right choice for the 4 day stay.
The Mekong Delta! I felt about the Mekong Delta like I did about seeing the Sinai Peninsula. Growing up, on the world news these places were talked about at length. Casualties, politics, religion, oil, war! These places were so far away, so strange sounding, so foreign yet for a young person so intriguing. Going across the Sinai in 2009, all I kept thinking was this is nothing but a vast area of nothing, nothing, nothing except sand, twiggy weeds with plastic bags from garbage strewn about probably years old attached like part of a plant, and some camels. What country would want this? Until you see all the oil rigs off shore, then you get the picture.
The Mekong Delta – alive, beautiful, people everywhere on boats, on the shore, working, living off the river and the land. 40 years since this area was devastated by Agent Orange and bombs, it has revived itself but alas, Viet Nam is now an emerging economically thriving country. What happens? The new is replacing the old. The young are leaving the area to go to where life is easier and for them better. The area that we visited consisted of many boats close together with all types of wares that are sold directly from the boats to the people and businesses from the shore. Our guide said probably in 5 years it will be no more. If it still is there, it will only be for the tourists to see how it was in the past.
You now see beautiful boatels done in the traditional boat design taking people along the river for 4, 5 day trips. On the islands, people still live in homes surrounded by the jungle but not as many. The traditional way of life is now for the tourists to see. However, it totally lived up to my expectations. Crossing the Sinai in a bus stopped often by gun toting Egyptian military, going to St Catherine’s cathedral, being bribed by the orthodox nasty priest and harassed by the local children was certainly an adventure. Enjoyable was not an adjective to use.
If you go to Viet Nam, if you go to Saigon, for an excellent view of life in the past with wonderful people, a beautiful area, great food and fun, do not miss seeing the Mekong Delta. Our tour consisted of us, two families from Australia, and a couple from Slovenia. An adventure that for me deserved the adjective enjoyable!
AirBnB was recommended by some friends, originally from Switzerland, we came to know while they were visiting in NZ. We tried it for the first time in Saigon aka Ho Chi Min City aka HCMC. In email back and forth with the owner of the home in which we were staying we asked the best way to get to her home. She immediately emailed back and stated the preferred taxi, where to get it and how much to pay. No problem until we reached our destination, like okay, what do we do now as we were in the middle of a huge city, in the middle of the huge NO TOURIST district 8, on the side of a huge city street, with no addresses and no homes to be seen? The taxi driver took Dan, while I watched the gear, and led him through narrow passage ways (could be called a maze) off the main street to the location of the home. Once there we met the mom, no English but she was expecting our arrival. Lyn, the young lady who owned the home with her parents, soon came and with her limited English, greeted us and helped us settle in the third floor room of the lovely narrow home of five floors with a rooftop terrace overlooking Saigon.
Dodging people, bicycles and motorcycles in the small passageways, we found our way to the main street that evening. An abrupt stop with a “WOW” when we reached the main street, as we have NEVER, NEVER seen so many small motorbikes whizzing everywhere! As we turned the corner onto this over stimulating street of people, lights, cycles, with the cacophony of it all, we saw a young lady we had met earlier also staying at the house. She was sitting on a rickety chair next to an older Vietnamese gentleman and a young couple from NZ on their honeymoon, also staying at the house. They were sitting on these old chairs right on the sidewalk around an old table. We sat down and then began an ongoing flow of Vietnamese beer with the often said “yo”, the Vietnamese toast. The older Vietnamese gentleman, who spoke NO English, turned out to be the father of the young lady who ran the Air BNB. He was delighted with his English speaking guests and certainly encouraged us to say “yo” way too many times. At least I can blame him as he wouldn’t have understood if I tried to say I was just being polite as you brought more beer to the table. We had as I sometimes say just way “too much fun”. Thus started the Saigon adventure.
“Dan, you have got to check out the toilet. I want one.” My first words upon entering Japan. We are in Osaka, actually a suburb called Nishinomiya, Japan visiting friends Jean-Claude and Marlene. We met Jean-Claude and Marlene (originally from the French speaking part of Switzerland) in Hurgada Egypt. They sailed to Egypt from Israel. We left Turkey and arrived in Hurgada via Lebanon and Cypress. Hurgada is a large tourist town in Egypt south of the Suez Canal, Bay of Suez and at the north end of the Red Sea. 17 boats connected here, as a group, for the Vasco De Gama Rally to sail down the Red Sea to India, the safest way to sail through the Gulf of Aden due to the piracy of the Somalis. 14 boats completed the journey. For those who may have seen or read Captain Phillips, you get the idea. Note of interest here, at the start of the movie when the Captain was in Salala Oman, it brought back memories of our time there. As he travelled south we sailed from Oman to Mumbai India a year later. Pirate situation was still critical even up the coast of Oman.
Back to Jean-Claude and Marlene, on their beautiful aluminium French sailboat, Anthea. They flew to New Zealand to visit last January. Having sailed to and around Japan for the last few years, they are soon sailing to South Korea. Very, very few westerners sail to these waters.
Back to the toilet! I think I will include the toilet in blogs regarding all the great gadget ideas to make life in Japan so interesting and “what is the word?” will age myself here “cool”. From the famous bullet train to toilets this country is fascinatingly different.
We knew before we came we were going to experience our first typhoon as Typhoon Halong was predicted to hit on Sunday! As I am writing this, on Sunday, I am in the second floor lounge of the Yacht Marina watching Anthea below ride out the tail end of the typhoon. Hurricanes, typhoons same thing - @$#(*)(#* amount of wind and rain!
Only a few more px regarding "Ok,this is different than I am used too". Like many humans, the dog is their friend, their child replacement,etc. From dining on dog in Cambodia,seeing dogs roving in packs in Langkawi, we have come full circle or at least 180 degrees. Small dogs do well in the populated living areas. They live a pampered life for sure.
After the first wow, this is different, you just get used to it and after awhile the thought for this foreigner is well this is "Just Japan. We traveled by bus and train from Osaka to Kyoto for a whirlwind three days.
We are not BIG city people. Coming to Japan, a small island country of 127 million from NZ, a small island country with 4.5 million was a concern. 336 people per sq.km, 70% of the land deemed uninhabitable because it is considered too mountainous. NZ has 16 people per sq km. BTW, the US is 35 people per square km. Land mass for NZ is 269,000 sq km, land mass for Japan is 378,000 sq km slightly smaller than California. What, pray tell, makes it work? Very little crime and the cleanest country I have ever been in. But, after being here for only over a week I think the main reason this place works is "It is just Japan"!
The old and the new. Osaka reminds me of Auckland, NZ sans millions of people. Kyoto reminds me of Wellington NZ, sans millions of people. Auckland is quite modern where the NZ capital, Wellington, has the charm of the early years of NZ. Kyoto is the primary tourist destination because of the old temples and shrines. Let me rephrase that, ‘because of the vast number of old temples and shrines’. Kyoto, with its many wooden buildings, all with a pail of water in the front in case of a small fire, are of the older traditional architecture whereas Osaka is pure modern.
The people we have encountered have been extremely kind and helpful. I do note a similarity with Americans who are also kind and helpful. When you meet a Japanese, they will talk to you in fluent Japanese with few hand gestures, and even if you give them the “I have no clue what you are saying” look, they will smile and keep talking. In the US, since many Americans only know American English, they will also smile and keep talking in American English also oblivious to the “look”. Very cute. In some countries, the person just holds up a finger indicating ‘wait’, disappears, and then reappears accompanied by someone who speaks English. We are also accustomed to just resorting to laughing with a lot of hand gestures. The delightful waitress in the café we often go to smiles and in her fluent Japanese tells us about the one dish for the day. We smile, shake our head “yes” knowing it will be delicious. She does handle “English hot tea” and “cold coffee” in English never forgetting who orders what. Today, oh-oh, more choices. She went over to another customer who later came over and stated in perfect English that she often ate there and the waitress would like us to know what is available. She then explained everything they had for lunch, exactly what the waitress had asked her to do. The café is at the marina, so very few foreigners. In the city restaurants, the dishes are displayed in the windows, the menus come with pictures, so the “point to the picture” communication system works well.
I say American English because I first noted it on the buses in Kyoto. The buses have spoken and written messages explaining the stops in Japanese and English. I noted to Dan that the English was in our Midwest American accent. I later learned American English what was taught in schools. One time we saw outside a restaurant that “American” English was spoken.
Haven’t blogged in a while because nothing has happened and too much has happened. Leaving Japan, we boarded a 47’ catamaran sailboat in Noumea, capitol of New Caledonia. We had signed on as crew with the hopes of sailing to Grenada in the Caribbean. The “not much happened” will be shown in the pictures below. Endless, the boat, took us through parts of the Pacific Ocean, through the famed Torres Straight between Australia to the south and Papua New Guinea, to the north, the Arafura Sea, Timor Sea, down the Indian Ocean, for 43 days to the French Island of Reunion off of South Africa. Does that sound exciting? Salt water, out of sight of land, no matter what ocean or sea, is just that –salt water! I sighted some dolphins and a few birds but nothing else, come on whales where were you? After I jumped ship in Reunion, Dan did get some great whale sightings upon approaching mainland South Africa. No rough seas on this leg of the voyage. Actually we could have had more wind.
One reason Dan and I signed on for this venture was to see if we still loved off shore cruising and just sailing for that matter. We have been out of sailing for three years. The question was answered. Fortunately or unfortunately, both apply, we still love it. Why did I jump ship? The boat had the owner on board, Joachim, us as crew and the captain Andy. We knew Andy from Malaysia. We had never been sailing with him but had talked to others before we set forth. The people we talked to had obviously never sailed long distances with Captain Andy. He deserves at least 5 chapters in the “book I will never write.” I always want to leave any soul who reads this stuff I babble on about to at least get a chuckle. The A in Captain A, as I call him, AKA the “nutter”, became something else that begins with an A. Capital A in fact. If I cannot laugh about it now then only sad memories remain. The part that I will admit is that I was getting an idea of this nutter before the boat left the dock, so can only take responsibility for my naiveté when he assured us he would behave better once we set sail. Before I get to the LIST, Dan has reminded me, Captain A was the most knowledgeable and capable sailor and boat person we have ever met. We both learned from him, regarding sailing and boats, that is. The list:
ADHD, attention deficit and hyperactivity disorder, undiagnosed, because he had never heard of it. I don’t consider this a problem but Captain A certainly would have benefitted from knowledge and possibly proper medication. He would just say he was manic!
Control freak!
Emotional level of a prepubescent girl, sorry that may sound sexist but you get the idea of the histrionic snits that little girls have as opposed to the boys who just become moody and sulk.
Volatile and complaining. Yelled (as mentioned above the histrionic snits) over minor, let me say it again minor things such as when we did not wring out the wash cloths the way he wanted. Supposedly because it left it smelly. Never knew when he would blow! On to the next item on the list!
The fact was HE reeked of body odor. Could not stand very close. This is difficult when on a 47’ boat.
Insulting
No alcohol while sailing, but when on land, he was a belligerent, nasty, mean, disgusting DRUNK!!!!!!
Do I need to go on? Please laugh with me. Okay not laughing yet! This idiot wanted us to respect him as the captain, age 46, but he wore only his underpants throughout most of the voyage. Underpants, no less that had little skulls and crossbones. Oh there was a small hole on the right cheek. I had to see this jerk prance around in his panties as he would say in his drunken stupor when on land, he wanted to be respected as the captain. He made Captain Ron, if you have seen the movie, look like Lord Nelson or for all the Kiwis, Captain Cook. Will leave it on that note. Hopefully you are grinning at the mental image.
Back to Still Dreaming for more projects. Progressing toward a boat that can really float. Have made contact for hook up of new Beta 60 engine. Rigger is on track getting the Harken Battcar system ordered and shipped from the USA. We will install the required mast track ourselves. Sailmaker has our new main sail and will attach the battcars once they arrive. Our new 150% genny is also standing by. Moving forward slowly. Yes it is hot and humid but what do we expect when we are 6 degrees north of the equator? Life on the hard is always just what you make of it. Take things as they come and make lemonade if we get served lemons. More later mates.
Well as projects progress or regress depending on how you view them, yesterday was a holy shit and phew in the same time. I knew that the throttle and transmission cables needed to be looked at and most likely replaced. Ryan, the yard owners son, is helping with the engine hook up and alignment. We work together, I think?? Removing the cables from the Edson pedestal, according to the Google search, says they come out the port side and clearance is very tight. Plus there is only a small hole on the bottom thus they have to come out the top. Ryan and I struggled for an hour. The Google magic search said relieve the tension from the steering quadrant so you can move the chain on the drive sprocket within the pedestal forward to give max clearance. Get into the aft cockpit locker to access the quadrant. Ryan dives headfirst into the project. Seconds later he is uttering " o-shit, F###, repeatedly. The stainless shaft that secures the steering cables to the aluminum steering quadrant broke with minimum pressure. This was due to dis-similar metal causing electrolysis because of stainless shaft thru aluminum steering quadrant. This was the holy shit BUT better to happen in the yard than when we are pulling away and find out we have NO steerage!!!
Back to the cable removal.....after over 3 hours trying to get the damn cables out the top like Mr. Google said to do....let's try the bottom.......walla out she came through the bottom.....our hole was bigger than Mr. Google thought. Yes the throttle cable needed replacing. As long as they are already out we will replace them both.
Now waiting for Ryan to show up with the replacements.
Yes, this techie blog is written by Dan.....I will let Mary write the funny sailing stuff. Sorry mates, if ya don't know what I am saying just ask Mr. Google......hope you have better luck than I did.....HA!!
Well, Mary and I are pretty good to owning up to our mistakes. When we were aboard last year I really screwed up and spilled some acetone on our corian galley counters. It left prominent white rings on the counter top. When we were discussing the job, Mary fessed up to the other large rings which were burn marks when she put a pot down straight from the stove. Oops to us both. We were having trouble finding a how to repair corian u-tube demo from Malaysia. Well, we have an IT expert and an internet resourse person in our nephew Jim. He has fixed computer problems remotely from his location in Washington, D.C.. when we were in Turkey. A help call was promptly answered and a corian u-tube demo was sent to us by Jim. I kept the site till needed, which is now. It was a bit intimidating said AGRESSIVE sanding was needed. Get out the 60 grit wet / dry sand paper and give it a go. We took turns applying water and wiping down the counter as we ground away at the surface. The corian is a pretty hard surface so it did not sand quickly. I have to admit my acetone rings came out pretty quickly when compared to the burn rings. All tolled we kept up the sanding for 2 1/2 hours and walla counter looks just like it did before the screw up. Internet also said to polish the counter with automotive car wax. Well as I stand back and look that counter that is 28 years old looks pretty damn good to these two old cateract eyes......HA!!
Well we seem to have about 4 or 5 irons in the fire at present. We received our chain, 70 meters of it, when we were away. Our old chain had served us well but after 25 years it was way past it's safe usage time. We laid it out and our system to know exactly how much we have deployed is to mark it every 25 feet. Presently using cable ties, one tie per 25 feet. You see the chain with three ties sticking out and you know immediately it is 75 feet. At 125' I switch to black ties. Plus the first 16---18' at the anchor has white chain so if I am in the anchor locker and see white chain coming in I know the anchor is almost in. On the tail end the last 15 feet is painted red to tell me we are about to deploy the whole rode. Plus the tie area is red so you can count as chain runs out just what is in the water. Trust me it is impossible to accurately judge how much is deployed if you do not have some sort of marking system.....this one works for us. Replacing dorades, we have 8 of them, is also on going. As is refinishing cockpit table and lazeret doors. Waiting for engine alignment and cable hook up. This is with yard help. Harken Battcar System is on order from US and should be here in about a week. As is the new shore power battery charger. We also have a new mainsail and 150% jenny waiting for the Harken System to arrive. Thus we are slowly moving forward. At least we, at present, have a positive outlook on the many projects. Mary is also working with a Kiwi teacher and a deaf lady, from Cambodia, to try to get her up to speed with communication skills so she can get a entry visa for the UK. Her husband and 21 month old son have British passports but Asa has Cambodian which presents a problem with visas. Cheers mates........we will carry on!!!
Anchor up, easy peesie.......NOT when their is a barb wire topped fence directly in front of the boat. Goodie, another adventure. Well it should have been a easy task just hit the windless up button and job done. Way too easy. Laural and Hardy go to work. Mary is doing the deck work aboard and I am on the ground. We have to get the 40kg anchor over the fence so it has room to swing out and up on to the bow roller. I am working from a ladder tied to the fence. We finally managed the task by tying a line to the crown of the anchor and Mary used a deck winch to raise the anchor above the top barbed wire. Then as I forced the anchor out Mary eased the line so the anchor was hanging on the outside of the fence. Then she could bring the heavy anchor aboard with the windless. Yea, another small task completed.
Well mates, we are making progress and getting jobs completed. The new shore power, 240 V-AC 40 amp charger has been successful hooked up. As I was in the middle of that project in the lazeret the floor broke loose and the sloping floor needed to be taken apart, braces from below installed and beefed up then the plywood floor could go back down and the alum. floor covering screwed in place. Mary has been busy with bottom sanding to be ready for the anti-fouling paint to be painted on. Along with cockpit table and boarding ladder which required a lot of sanding before the varnish could be applied. New automatic bilge pump for the engine pan was put in. The Harken Battcar System has arrived from the USA. It was a bit intimibating to start with but once into the project things are starting off quite well. Installed the first mast track this evening. One down and eight to go. later mates. Having a bit of trouble up loading px but will try!
The Harken Battcar System is a very low friction installation with the use of ball bearing cars attached to the mainsail to ease the hoisting and lowering of the main sail, according to reports, on any point of sail. Our main sail is so large with the old sail slug system it was impossible for me to raise the sail much over 1/3 of the way up. Hopefully with the battcars it will be hoisted with no "grunt & groan" involved. First, an external track must be attached to the mast for the battcars to run up. Each section is two meters long and attached with 20 sail slugs inside the existing main sail track with s/s machine screws. If you want to see this system in action Google Harken Battcar and their is a video on how it works in real life. I am working from a ladder tied to the mast. Thus the top screw holes are about three meters off the deck. After loosely attaching the first section we attempted to hoist with the main sail halyard. Dream on mate, did not want to slide up. Mary came up with the logical solution. Lube the sail track with something. First section I sprayed with silicone spray. From then on Mary coated the slugs with silicone jelly applied with a q-tip. After loading the slugs in the track I would slide them up with a plastic putty knife as Mary would locktite the screws for me. After the learning curve, there is ALWAYS the curve, of the first couple of track sections we could do a section in a bit over 20 minutes. Then raise up with the halyard and start another section. We now have all but the last piece installed. The next step is for me to go to the top of the mast, glad I can just climb up the mast steps, sit in a bosin chair, Mary tailing, and tighten every screw from the top down. Should be about 150+ screws. I have no problem going up the mast but it is a bit scary when the boat is on the hard and held up with eight jack stands. Requires a windless day and a careful climb. Possibly tomorrow mates. Cheers from Langkawi.
Refitting the boat means clearing stuff from the many cupboards and lockers. We have sailed to a few countries and picked up bottles along the way. Ouzo from Greece, Raki from Turkey, Coffee liquore from Italy, Evin, from who knows where, and Southern Comfort from Langkawi, Malaysia. Requiring that these stocks be consumed and replaced with new. Lucky Langkawi is a duty free island and booze is cheap. At quitting time we will do our best to deplete the stores. Lockers need to be emptied. We will do our best. Cheers.
Here we go again. Back on the boat in Langkawi Malaysia. Yes, we flew Malaysian Airlines direct from Auckland. Cheapest rates, wonder why? The boat is still “on the hard” in a rather junk strewn boatyard, with the same two rough looking but kind boat yard dogs, and the hub bub of people with questionable sanity working in hot, dirty conditions to get their boats ready to …… oh what is it we want to do, I forgot, yes go SAILING IN PARADISE. Me, the eternal pragmatist (Dan will say pessimist) is actually saying if, just if, if, if we can get these projects completed within the next two months we can maybe, maybe ,maybe plunk this lovely boat home in the water and actually try out the new sails and the new engine and go for a sail. If it doesn’t happen this time, for sure next!
Oh, if we think things go at a snail’s pace now in Malaysia, Ramadan is about to start! A month of relaxation for this predominately Muslim country. Let me think, fun things that have happened! We went to our favorite fish and chips place by a lovely beach. After a great lunch, glass of wine and beer, into the sea. Luxurious, until Dan says “I think I am getting stung by a jelly fish.” Standing next to him, I feel nothing. As has happened before, the jelly fish, alas, love Dan and, yea, hate me. We immediately get out of the water, go to the restaurant and ask for vinegar. A local states there are no jelly fish in the water. The next day with Dan nursing a slightly swollen foot with red pustules in lines showing the exact trail of the tentacles we smiled saying ,”hum , no jelly fish in that water.”
We have met a nice couple from the Dunedin area in South Island, New Zealand. They are sailing also. Robyn has been working with a lovely, young deaf Cambodian woman, Asa, married to a Brit, Roy. I volunteered to do a communication evaluation and later some possible interventions. Asa is learning British Sign Language. Oh dear, are there any similarities between American Sign Language and British Sign Language? Not even the sign for “no”. So, the brain cells need to be fired up.
Dan has dwelt on writing about boat projects and progress of such. I, on the other hand, sit inches away from the fans in 30 plus degree heat (high 80ties)reflecting on the day’s activities and dwelling on the definition of sailing: fixing your boat in exotic places!
Mr Jim comes through again. As the before px shows, our VHF cable decided to self-destruct and needed replacing. A mail to Jim and he was on the project straight away. He tracked down the Raymarine supplier so I could buy two replacement cables. It was the most challenging to take apart the top black plastic trim ring since it had two very tiny springs that keep a protective cover over the distress button. On two occasions the springs flew off but Mary's eyes pick up such things better than mine and she located the little flying buggers. The inside connection with about 8 tiny wires within the rubber spiral cord was a simple, but very tiny, plastic plug.
The second unit was repaired in half the time it took for the first one. Mostly because I lucked out and got the above mentioned spring piece out and back in without the springs shooting off.
Tick off another little job,
Thanks again Jim
Cheers
Dan and Mary
As most of you know, I can be a bit of a penny pincher. From it is no longer politically correct to call me by your nickname for me. With that said, I have come to totally believe you get what you pay for in tools. Thus, I will offer my non paid endorsement for the Nitecore line of torches and head lamps. They are new, so have not stood the test of time for me. At least tools and such are less costly here in Malaysia but Nitecore is still bloody expensive. I went whole hog as the px shows. I first got the torch, which is made to military rugged standards and is waterproof to two meters. Always good to have no worries in a rainstorm or when we go caving back home. Torch and HC90 headlamp both have rechargeable batteries through a mini usb connection. Torch has four settings for brightness and the top output of 1000 lumens makes for a very bright torch from such a small unit. Now comes the headlamp......these seem to fail quickly on me regardless of buying expensive name brand gear. Thought we would be all set for our long distance sailing delivery last year when I got two Blackdiamond, bloody expensive, headlamps. NOT....first leg was 43 days and were used every night by both of us. Mary's died about 30 days out and mine failed before reaching South Africa. So, here I go again with another expensive headlight. The HC90 operates totally different from most units, and seems a really cool way to work. Light intensity is regulated with a slide switch that goes from 0.2 to 900 lumen. You can pick exactly how much light you need for the task at hand. Of course the more the output the faster battery life will decrease but when it is rechargeable it is not a real concern. This unit is also waterproof to two meters. It also has red light for night vision. Plus green and blue, I guess just for fun. Both the lights use the same rechargeable battery and I will get a third spare so we are always covered. It worked brilliantly, pardon the pun, yesterday when doing a wiring job in the engine room. The MC1 is a little smart charger which is also powered by a mini usb plug. Let's hope that they pass the time test!!! The headlamp has a 5 year warranty so I am banking on it lasting if the company stands behind their products for such a long time. Cross fingers mates and we shall see. Cheers Dan
It has been awhile since a blog post. Not to bore any readers but basically reason is I, Mary, decided to pirouette off the companion way ladder when trying to shut the overhead sliding door to the outside. The dominant hand, left, held on tight as I gracefully turned and fell to the floor. Upshot is, major break, 2 ½ hour surgery to rebuild wrist with putting bone pieces back together to hold the titanium wrist plate. 4 nights in the hospital getting pumped with antibiotics, ouch coming through the IV by the way.
OH, no sympathy needed for dumb move but the clincher was the ortho doc saying later the severity of the break not due so much to the twist but osteoporosis. Okay, okay, a bit of sympathy can be given for this diagnosis.
Still have a Michelin man or Pillsbury Doughboy hand so helps to elevate. Dan helped in our rented room; I have been banished from the boat, by tying the arm sling to the bed post, looks like a bondage technique for the geriatric set.
People have asked about the health care, surgery, hospitalization, etc. here in Langkawi, Malaysia…. As follows…
Room, 40 USD per night
First two days with X rays, cardiogram, blood work, meds; 175 USD
Titanium wrist plate; shipped from the capitol, Kuala Lumpur, had to be prepaid in cash with ortho doc seeing the receipt: 640USD
Fee for surgeon, 370USD
Total cost, 1285 USD, less than ¼ of our copay in US.
Room not fancy but clean. Three beds, air con.
Nursing care, excellent! Quality of operating room from what I could tell before lights out, literally, was excellent.
Anesthesialogy, professionalism and care, excellent!
Professionalism, bedside manner of orthopaedic surgeon, excellent!
Aftercare, excellent.
So, time will tell and this too shall pass. Dan is busy closing up Still Dreaming, still on the hard in Langkawi. Back to landbased home next week. Dan will have cataract surgery in Sept. We will stay for the summer. Hopefully, kayaking, body boarding, and ugh, gardening will asist with the wrist returning to normal.
Back here in April to go SAILING around Malaysia and Thailand. Maybe get back into diving. Am I dreaming big here? Our mottos.... intentions are written in sand at low tide and life is nothing but a series of tacks as always hold true. Cheers!
Another rainy day here in Kaihu, New Zealand so will blog regarding the end of our Still Dreaming time in Langkawi, Malaysia. Dan was able to get SD ready for splash when we return in April. Tasks for then will be paint the bottom, put on the prop, sails on and in she goes. I spent the time going crazy at the hotel or rather crazier? Did get a chance to read some good mysteries. Anyone who asks why should we be downloading e books has never been stuck, painfully so, in a quiet jungle hotel in Malaysia. The ability to download a new novel to take my mind off stupid moves leading to injury sure made life better for me and more importantly for Dan. If anyone, like me, is addicted to mystery novels, may I recommend author Louise Perry writing the Chief Inspector Armand Gamache series. Pictures below reflect one of our last outings at a water fall on the island. Hopefully next visit I will be swimming under the falls.
As I try to keep these blogs short and whimsical at best or maybe least, reflecting on travel experiences can be entertaining or boring. Will opine here a moment and would like discussion please. I was telling Dan about a woman who is an airline attendant of Muslim faith and will not complete her duties of serving alcohol to passengers in the US. Getting to the travel blog point here is that for over 6 years we kept SD in Marmaris, Turkey. Turkey is a Muslim country. Marmaris is a tourist town that caters to Europeans. Europeans , vacation, beach, water, play, and dare I say it drink, drink, drink. Guess what folks, who is selling the alcohol at the grocery stores, who is serving the alcohol in the restaurants, who is working in the bars in some capacity? Now spending time in Malaysia, a Muslim country, on the most
touristy island in the country, dare I say it again. I remember two lovely gentlemen helping us get anchored in a bay in Turkey. I invited them on the boat an offered a drink, coke, beer, juice? The one fellow said in accented English while pointing to himself and then his friend, Me Muslim, coke, my friend, Catholic, beer.
While in Yemen, yes women in public wear black head to toe with most of the face covered, so how devout can you get? Oh should say at the port of Aden, there actually was a bar serving alcohol. HM! Of course with all these pious Yemenis, no alcohol or tobacco for them. Thanks be to Allah there is Khat! The addicts are everywhere as it or was when we were there grown, sold, and used by men and women. Instead of the winos, junkies you see the people addicted to Khat reacting the same way. Religion, discrimination, drug of choice ????? Personally, I like the two charming, hardworking Turks who were best friends in the same little village, me a coke him a beer!
Well do not know if this was short, whimsical, entertaining or boring but at least travel related.
Finally, health and weather permitted a nice hike. One of our favorites which includes walking across paddocks to the beach, down the beach to the bluff. 8.2 k, 4 people seen, darn tourists. About 15,20 minutes from the house. The paddocks have young bulls and electric fences. Not being a fan of either, I picked up my step abit as the curious bulls approached. Dan, as always the gallant protector told them to stay back abit as I scrambled over the steps. Since this a DOC dept of conservation, well marked hike, am sure all is safe, ....aah, 66 year old rather small woman, herd of young bulls, not taking chances, thank you very much.
As the days get warmer here, I tend to forget that fall is turning into winter above the equator. It is also difficult to realize that Thanksgiving in Canada has come and gone and the holiday is fast approaching in the US. After a hike last week, we struck up a conversation with a Kiwi family. The husband mentioned how excited they were to go skiing in Colorado in early Febuary, still summer school break here. I needed to assure him it was a good time to go, and school holidays were over. In NZ, the 6 week summer break from the last week in December to the first week in Febuary has, LIKE EVERYONE, on vacation, camping, beaching, fishing, boating,surfing, and having fun. Fortunately we live in the nontouristy part of the country but even for us it can get crowded. About an hour and half away is our favorite cave with beautiful glowworms. The paddock in front allows for free camping. We usually go for a picnic, caving and a short hike. Maybe, maybe one tent at the most. Last year, at least ten. We were shocked. How dare all these people come to OUR place?
Christmas is pretty blase. We are going to try this year to go to Dargaville, the city we live closest to, pop. 4500, for Christmas in the park, from 6 to 8, Dec. 5. What can you say when the biggest Christmas parade in the entire country held in Auckland is sponsored by Coke? Forget the Christmas stuff, get on vacation, get to the beach and set up the barbacue!
Last year we had a fantastic time with family in Michigan at Christmas. This year, swimming at Kai Iwi Lakes, barbacue and dinner on the deck, drive to the beach, maybe some body boarding, set up chairs and table with wine,beer, and nibbles, watch the sunset, home, put a fire in the brazier on the deck, chat and look up at the beautiful sky in the southern hemisphere unspoilt by any other lights. I may however, buy lights this year to decorate our young Norfolk Pine in the front yard. I wonder if Dan will go BAH, HUMBUG!
Well back at the boat once again. This time with no set schedule.....Just get her back in the water and check out all the new kit we have installed and PLAY a bit
We are also going easy with the boat chores. Mary has already commented that she has never seen me so laid back. I am really trying to take this no schedule thing to heart.
Trying to get the very heavy and cumbersome main sail out from inside the boat was project today. Of course one of the ropes we needed for this job was stuck at the top of the mast. There are six ropes for different applications all run down the inside of the mast. Luckily, I have stair steps going up the mast, most boats do not have them. I installed them myself just after we bought this boat. Short handed sailing. I put on a safety. seat and climb to the top of the mast as Mary takes up the slack on my safety harness seat so If I should slip I would not crash down to the deck. It is actually totally safe doing this but remember the boat is sitting in a concrete boat yard held up by those red pipe props against the side of the boat. Actually it is safer to climb up the mast when the boat is in the water because it will not tip over. On shore like it is, it could, but I try not to think about it when on the climb. The closer to the top the slower I go. Once up to the top, Mary takes up all my weight from her deck winch and ties me off. Then I can sit in my safety seat, it is actually called a bosons seat, and work without having to hold on. It took a bit of poking and pulling with my fingers but I got it free and pulled it out 700 mm or so and thought that will be fine I will just pull it all the way out once I get back down to deck level........fucking mistake!! I though the job was done....remember I am up about 25 meters and sweating my ass off as the temp is about 32--33C. not even thinking what if one of those boat props gives way and the boat falls over......it would not be a good outcome I know for sure. Well once back down, easy as Mary is very good at letting the rope holding me up slide slowly around the winch and I ease back down to the deck. If she would drop that rope I would come crashing down because my total weight is on that line and I am not holding on at all.
Not a good activity if you don't get along with your mate, HA! My life is truly in her hands.
Well in a few minutes we need that UN-STUCK line to help lift the mainsail out from down below.
Mary says dearie I can't pull the line down. I come from the sweat box,Mthe inside of the boat, up on deck and sure as hell the weight of the line has pulled it back up and once again jammed it at the top of the mast. After a lot of not very nice words, we determine. SCREW IT....
time to be done for the day......nice to not be on a schedule so we went back to the room and I took an hour nap. Tomorrow I will go up and get it un stuck. Being a very clever bloke, I will also lower the four other ropes,mhalyards, back to deck level while I am up there. Thus preventing a third time up the stick for Mr. Clever.
See what FUN we have at the boat all day? It is a sailing disease going on now over 33 years with no quick cure.
Later mate
Dan and Mary
Sent from my iPad
WHY…..It defies logic and past practices of mine… forever!!
You all know me. At home my best ever vehicle is a 1994 Toyota 4X4 diesel Land Cruiser. It is much used, abused, rode hard and often put away wet. NZ’s semi tropical climate provides the wash down.
Seldom do I ever even put a hose to the characterful exterior. The exception being when we have arriving guests thus a quick wash and thorough interior vacuuming is required.
What defies logic? I remarked to Mary, the other day, that when we return to the boat, one of the first things we do is scrub away all the grime and streaks on the hull. The black streaks are a mold type of thing, not easy to remove. Well mates, we have a 47 foot boat which means we have close to 100 feet of hull to clean. In that it is summer, Malaysia has temps around 90F or above with 80+% humidity, above 30 C. Bloody sweaty, hot manual labour and we go at it, not a couple of hours, but bloody days.
Our methods, refined mostly by Mary, is to squirt a section of hull with white vinegar. Then rub the streaks out with a scrub pad and cleanser with bicarbonate of soda ( important part) and a LOT of elbow grease. The hull is rinsed with the water blaster. At times, small areas need several repetitions. Luckily, we have a small scaffold to work from. After the hull is cleaned, the new Still Dreaming name stickers can be affixed. Next week it should be done.
Now you know what FUN ( ???? ) we are having in this island paradise.
Later mates.
If you are a prudish sort, FOF stands for Fun on Friday. If you are like us, FOF stands for F…K Off Friday. The port, where SD is, closes on Friday which is for Muslims like Sunday for the Christians. So we do what everyone else does except go to the Mosque.
Took a ride to the highest point of the island, played tourist with picture taking and then had a nice lunch at a beach restaurant. A few days ago, while having dinner in town at a popular westerner’s restaurant, met up with another sailor who had sailed down the Red Sea with us in 2009/2010. Jamie and Liz, originally from England, stayed about three years in India. We are thinking about sailing back to Cochi, India, so could it have been kismet? Time will tell. Two steps forward, one step back, two items off the TODO list, three added.
We love NZ, except we miss the critter life. NZ was a country of birds, no mammals or reptiles. Okay one small bat and one small lizard. We miss the frogs, the turtles, the racoons, the deer, the list goes on and for Dan even the damn squirrels. So upon leaving the room today to head to the boat, a good size monitor lizard greeted us or rather when seeing us tried its best to get under the floor of the next cabin.
As boat projects proceed, Dan’s day was, in part undoing the cables to the steering quadrant in expectation of removing the rudder to replace the drive shaft. I started waxing the boat. With my charm, or is it called nagging, I convinced Dan to hire it done. Thank you my darling.
Among any virtues I might have, patience was probably not on the very short list. Is it age or maintaining one’s sanity that I now feel I am acquiring it? Boat update:
Drive shaft arrived, now one week at the machinists, getting ends threaded for transmission and prop, can take all the time he wants because…
Stuffing box, Packing gland (fitted on the drive shaft to prevent boat from sinking) on back order for a month from the states. Now in country at customs for how long, well one does not know the answer to that question, does one?
Once drive shaft is on boat, quick bottom paint, in she goes and down to the end of the island to have the rigger come and adjust the new rigging. Am sure it can be done by the end of the month.
Wait, getting impatient here, talked to the rigger/canvas guy, Chris. He is leaving at the end of the month for Sumatra for 6 weeks.
TACKING
Leaving SD on the hard at her prison awhile longer. Updated US travel plans to go back in Sept and part of Oct. Since we have tossed around the idea of getting some wood work and a dodger/bimini completed in Thailand will do it here.
Woodwork done on time and looks GREAT!
Chris measured for new canvas bimini and hard dodger which can be worked on before and after Sumatra. We are also adding a new sailcover system called a Stack Pack with new lazy jacks (lines) that allow the sail to neatly be stowed on the boom comfortably by two people. This will be done by tomorrow.
Wait, wait feel the need for patience coming on. Heard from Barry, owner of the boat yard, Chris may not have completed the Stack Pack as the mega sailboat yacht he lives on and maintains for the owner had a hose in the engine room blow off thus flooding the engine room with salt water. Dan related this to me as I was sanding in preparation to paint the binnacle in the cockpit. It began to rain. Let’s go and have a pizza!
Phuket, Thailand's largest island) is where we decided to fly to after our three month visa was up in Langkawi. We left SD with several unfinished projects( drive shaft and dodger/bimini framework) with the assurance they will be completed by our return August 27. Hm, the" dry land in Louisiana for sale" comes to mind. We will know this Saturday. Anyone needing input on having plastic/cosmetic surgery done, let me know as I had eyelid surgery while here. The line of "getting older is NOT for sissies" fits this scenerio.
Staying in an area called Kamala on the west coast in an AirBandB close to the ocean. In Guatemala, the insistent bell ringing at the nearby cathedral,in islamic Countries like Malaysia the call to prayer starting at 6 AM, and here the evening chanting of the Buddhist monks from the close by monastery makes me either smile philosophically or cover my head going "not again." The call to prayer men (muessins) in Egypt were the worst. Malaysian muessins the best. If one HAS to listen to the sounds of "religion, the Buddhist chants do become a lull that, while reading my book, tends to cause the head to nod. OM!!!!!!
USA, six week trip planned, lots to do. Had a nice visit with brother, Jon and husband, Stephan. Exhausted, reached their home in Rancho Mirage, CA only to find no one home. They thought we were coming in the next day. Could this have been a foreshadowing of things to come?
Onto Michigan to be with family. Dan was stung by a zillion yellow jackets after stepping on the ground nest while sawing dead tree limbs. Once the swelling subsided, a week of the flu. Finally with Dan better again, we drove to see good friends, the Larson family, whom we met in Turkey. Had a great time with them in Eau Claire WI. Upon leaving, I felt a bit congested. A week of progressively getting worse culminating in a hospital stay of three days with pneumonia. Are we having fun yet? Did make it to Dan’s 50th HS reunion which was nicely done and a treat for me to hear about my Dan in his teens from his childhood friends.
So with that, it was a joy to be with the friends we were able to connect with and family. Sadness for the friends we had to miss. We are blaming the illnesses on the timing of the insane election and political climate in the US.
Presently in Langkawi Malaysia, at our resort room in the woods not far from the boat. Projects are coming slowly but progressing. I have been writing that line for at least two years. BUT!!!! we have a splash date of November 6. Fingers crossed.
One short tale of life in Langkawi. We are testing the new engine which has been started only once. Dan brings the long hose up into the boat to run water through the intake water strainer getting water through the diesel engine so it does not over heat. I am at the helm. Start the engine, it runs, all gauges operating, water correctly flowing out the transom exhaust hole, smiles! Stop the engine by pressing the stop button. Engine does not stop! Frowns and ()(*^**(*)*%^&*! I keep running the water through the engine while Dan races to the office to get find someone who was supposed to correctly hook up the engine. Did get a Malay worker who helped with engine installation. He stopped the engine by pressing a lever, very inaccessible. The phrase is “know your boat.” Now before we set sail, need to have the proper connection completed to stop the engine correctly, with Dan having to stand over the electrician’s shoulder. My wonderful husband looks at it as that we now know where the alternative shut off is located. I love him!
Well mates....when we got back home after being away for 8 months the pond plants had really taken over. You could not even see the water let alone a fish. Scooped up the fish with a fish landing net and put in a tub. Drained pond. Ripped out 90% of the plant life. Filled pond with water, good to go. NOT...the system needs Stewart falls ( named after our wonderful Kiwi neighbors that donated the pump ) to pump water from the pond, up through a 250 liter filter drum and then gravity flow to the top of the rock cairn at the top of the falls. The system, if working properly, is run with a timer that turns on around 0900 and shuts off at dark. This keeps the water crystal clear. Well, the damn pump kept loosing the prime and would not turn on after being shut off. After a bit of head scratching, this took several days, I pulled up the pond hose with the brass non return valve on the end. This valve prevents the water draining down from the pump to the pond and loosing the prime. Sure enough, root fragments from the water plants were clogging the valve and letting the water drain back. A stop at my favorite farm pump store in Dargaville, on our next trip to town, provided the cure for $5.65. A stainless screen was screwed into the brass pick up one way valve. Photo was taken before the screen was installed on the brass fitting. See just below the white foam circle in the middle of the pond. Happy to say our trusty Stewart pump is now functioning with the timer. Thanks again Maxine and Doug!
It has been raining here for the past four days and the pond is now to the top of the blue tiles and draining away through the 12mm overflow holes I drilled at the top of the tiles around the old spa pool. Fun watching our finned friends swim around. We are now up to 8 fish as they have had babies, from the original 4.
Cheers from Kaihu.
SD was in the water for only 6 weeks. After 6 years out of the water she didn't complain. Sailing again. What do they say, like riding a bicycle? Dan falling in the water with the full propane bottle and his phone. The propane bottle was fine, the phone....gurgle,gurgle,dead. Mary jumping in the water swimming after the dinghy was on its way to Thailand since she did not properly tie it to the cleat. Dodging fish nets, checking anchor at all hours of the night, fluky winds, ..... are we ready for this again? Oh,then the beautiful anchorages, the sunsets, the times when the wind was perfect. Most importantly, being on SD as she was saying thank you for the new sails, the new to us prop, new engine, new rigging, new dodger, new binimi, new AIS system, and the list goes on. Only a short 6 week adventure, however to be continued next November.
$1300 wireless headphones…..bloody hell they better be a story behind this one.
As the very old saying goes, “now for the rest of the story.”
Our neighbour happens to be a bit hard of hearing. We see her walking around with wireless headphones. These headphones are tuned into her TV so she can hear the TV better. This would be perfect in our small, totally open plan home. When one wants to nap, usually me, the telly must be turned down to less than low or that individual, me, can’t pop off to sleep.
We found Sennheiser wireless headphones on sale in Whangarei, a 100km drive from our house. Later, at home, after charging the phones overnight, we watch the set up video. Problem, no TV audio jack.
After watching the set up video, we discover our four year old LG 42” TV does not have a headphone jack. I call tech support at the store. After giving them our LG model number and a quick search on their end they advise us of two options.
A—return the headphones for a full refund or B—buy a new TV.
What the hell, it is also our 34th wedding anniversary, lets live it up in our retirement years.
Off we go to Whangarei again on the “get a new TV mission.” Our only criteria is it must fit on the wall shelf where the old TV sat.
Of course they have a slew of TVs to pick from. We shall just look at the 42” size to make sure it fits.
The same LG model, like our old TV, is sitting beside a Sony Bravia. Gee, that Sony does have a sharper picture, guess that is why it is $350 more. Hey, like I said, live it up! We will spring for the Sony. Mary finds an article the next day in YAHOO relating all the adapters that can be used for this type of headphones when the TV does not have a jack. What should we do?
The flash TV is all hooked up with built in WI FI. A NETFLIX button is on the remote.
Life is good in our tiny NZ home, with $1300 dollar headphones. O, and a new TV.
Cheers from Kaihu.
The day has arrived for SD to get back to where she belongs, the sea! In the past we have joined a group called HelpX and worked as helpers when traveling with a vehicle. This time, we signed up as hosts. Almost immediately, we received a post from Annie and Denis traveling throughput S.E. Asia. Their profile was perfect. They have been perfect. Will send another post with pictures. Without their help of one week, I think we would have been on the hard at least another two.
This post is to just show SD getting into slings of the trav lift and to say thank you to the team at B and V.
When we purchased our New Zealand life block in 2005, it was a real diamond in the ruff. Mary and I are quite proud of all the changes we have accomplished over the years. We both love a project and this place is always changing as our never ending project site in the whomps of Northland, New Zealand