Pre-departure checklist:
Sell and/or give away all possessions
Move out of house
Resign from job
Say farewell to everyone
Its the eve of the trip of a lifetime, and all of these things have been done. My never-ending list of things to do before we go has just about everything crossed off. I am now officially jobless, homeless and possession-less and its a very liberating feeling.
There have been many times in the past few months when I didnt even think that this journey was really going to happen. Would we save enough money in time, could I really quit my job, would I stay sane even though I have been stressed out with so much to do? It has been a journey in itself just to get to the stage where Im packed and ready to go.
Im going to miss my beautiful friends so much- our going-away party last night was amazing and so much fun, and made me realise just what wonderful friends I have! Its so hard to say goodbye to people who you love and know you wont see again for a long time. I have felt completely overwhelmed and touched by the kindness, generosity and support that has been provided to me by my friends and family in the past month. I feel so lucky and privileged to have so many amazing people in my life!
There have been tears and mini anxiety attacks in reaching the goal, and it has now got to the stage where I just cant wait to just get on that plane on the 25th at 3pm! I also cant wait to get on the beach in Thailand to really chill out and start to unwind from the mayhem that has been the past few weeks. Packing up your life and making everything fit into just a backpack is definitely not an easy task. Makes me wonder why I keep on doing it!
For me, this trip is going to be different to other trips I have done, as usually I travel solo, or with a good friend. This time, I will be journeying around the world with my amazing partner Malcolm, who has never really traveled anywhere. This is going to really make it a new and special experience (along with all the wonderful sites, sounds, smells, tastes that we will encounter too, of course!). Im looking forward to writing and pursuing my photography while away, and also getting back into an ESL classroom again. Most of all, I cant wait to feel free!
There are just so many things to look forward to, and I am really so excited! Let the adventure begin I say!
Well shit.
Its the eve of our departure. Were drinking the last of our good plonk ( a rather cheeky Riesling from NZ) and reality is slowly seeping in. I wont write a diatribe on the craziness of the last few months or my current state of mind, as most of you have travelled and probably know the emotions that go through everyones head when they depart (predominantly several shades of faaaark)
What I do want to say is thank you to all my friends and family. You have all been fantastic, helpful and understanding. From what I recall of our going away party (certain parts of the night are a complete blank for some reason ;), it was awesome to get such a turnout and to receive such kind words (and the abnormally large number of random leg humpings from some of my male friends was appreciated too I guess..)
Haha Simone is on the phone now trying to piece together the night with Marie (who wins the award for top effort. Thanks for spewing! I think vomitus is an important factor for a successful party).
Youve all helped us out in the form of putting us up, shouting drinks, giving us an inflatable kangaroo and much more.
A special thanks to mum who has been a champion by having a garage sale just so she could store our stuff.
Its hard to be reflective at this time because I dont really know what I am in for. I do know though that with Sim it will be an adventurous, awakening, learning, happy, sad experience. I hope to grow and understand more about myself and the world in which we live. I think this trip will give me clarity and direction.
Anyways, for now its See you later. Stay tuned .
Wow what a trip out. Having never travelled before, everything here is so fascinating and different. And were only in Khao San, so I guess in the immortal words of Bachman Turner Overdrive, I aint seen nothing yet.
Our flight was fine. Kudos Bernie for getting us the emergency seats!
Holy crap it is hot. We left the airport at 10:30pm Thai time, and it was still steaming and humid.
The motorcycle cops on the highway from the airport look like dudes out of a manga movie (specifically Akira). They have these mad helmets, sort of a riot gear uniform and wear face masks because of all the lead from cars.
Tuk Tuks with enough Bling to out-bling Puff Daddy, a mixture of Western and Asian architecture, vehicles piled high with produce and passengers, strange smells, beeping horns, hookers, rain and street stalls, all at midnight. There are kittens everywhere too.. but no cats (unless this is a new super breed of midget cats). Its noisy, bright and loud. Fantastic!
We are staying in the heart of Khao San Road. Simone informs me that the place were staying at is pretty well equipped by Asian standards. We have aircon, toiletries, a lock for our door and a combined toilet/shower thing. Oh, and excitement plus! You have the option of douche or toilet paper!
We went out for a wind down beer after dropping our stuff off. It looks very convenient for preparing for further travels. Tours, pubs, shops of every description, everything the traveller needs. Not as interesting as the streets we travelled through to get to Khao San Road, but still fascinating.
At the moment Im just trying to assimilate everything and take it all in. Well write again shortly!!
PS. Wrote the above at the hotel. Tab and Anna, we found the free internet place and are there now. I got Pad Thai for 15Thb! Thats like 50 cents! Im going to get FAAAT. Me and Sim will go on a mission for tu`s place soon!
Yahooooooo!!!! We`re finally here!!! It was a little-bit of a sad farewell at Brisbane Airport yesterday. Both our mums came along to see us off- meeting for the first time- and whilst both were sad to see their son and daughter off, they held up well! We were completely chuffed when we got on the plane and found wed been allocated exit aisle seats!! Sooo sweet!!! Thanks to our wonderful travel agent Bernie for making notes in our booking about us being tall travellers! These seats made the 9 hour journey completely bearable- as did the bloody marys and gin and tonics- ha ha!
We arrived in Bangkok at midnight Thailand time (3am Australia time) so we were both feeling really exhausted. As we drove in our taxi down the expressway, through the sprawling city that is Bangkok, a light misty rain was falling over the skyline. Red plane warning lights flashed from the top of the tallest buildings and we whizzed past street cleaners with their brooms, motorbike police on guard and families of people on scooters. We got to Kao San Road- travelers mecca- and checked into our hotel wed booked for our first night arrival.
Such an easy place to travel in, I think Thailand will be a good integration for us both. Thailand was the first place I traveled to way back when I was 21 and going overseas for the first time. I am curious to see what has changed- or what has changed about my perspective now that I have traveled so much to many other places. Im also curious to see how Mal adapts- he is experiencing complete sensoral overload at the moment, and its so cute to see!
There is no sign of anything bad a coup like- leave it to the peaceful, smiling Thais to have such a peaceful transition in government! We`ve only been exploring about an hour and have already pigged out on fresh fruit, pad thai and delicious coconut juice from the abundant street stalls. It`s muggy and overcast, like Brisbane in summer, it is going to be great to get to the beaches in a couple of days!
We went for a bit of a wander today. Anna, if youre reading this, Im afraid I caught the same thing you got when you were here: Pad-Thai-itis. I had it for breakfast lunch and dinner yesterday. So yummy. Im going to try very hard today to try something else. :)
We left Khao San Road and just wandered through the streets of Bangkok. Our destination was a guesthouse recommended by Tab and Anna; Tus Place. Well, we never made it there, but I think it was great that we got lost because we explored so much. It felt good to walk down somewhere where people are not trying to hawk something to you (Still getting used to that) The food looked a bit more traditional (chicken feet anybody?) and the locals seemed very friendly. Dogs everywhere, sprawling houses that seem inter-connected, and more strange sights and smells.
We saw the temple of immeasurable charm, which I think is a funny name, because as far as I was aware, there is no formal empirical measure for charm yet, thereby making everything technically immeasurable in the charm department. So on my newly devised charmometer, I would rate it as an 8.5.
There is a bit of a military presence here due to the coup, but its hard to take it as being dangerous where the soldiers have yellow ribbons tied to their guns. And I swear to god, I think the king drove straight past me and Simone. It looked just like the guy in the pictures everywhere, and there were official looking cars everywhere. Hes really small.
Today we are going to look in to buses to Koh Pa Ngan, meet up with Simones friend Mark and go on a boat through the river to see some temples and Museums.
Update: typed the above in the hotel room. Have since been on a Tuk Tuk ride with a cool young guy called Charlie. He laughed his head of at my surprised expression every time we almost had a collision. Yes, there was enough times to make this habitual. Apparently its Buddha day today, which means super cheap tuk tuk rides for tourists. They are trying to drum up tourism. Me and Simone have started a conspiracy theory though because it all started when this guy stopped us to give us directions. A tuk tuk driver conveniently pulled up and took us off to these "recommended places". The guys in the temples asked us the same questions and asked us if we had bought any suits yet. Of course we visited just as many shops as we did temples, but we politely said no to all offers.
I had my first bartering experience just now! Pretty excitement. I got something for 50Thb cheaper than the asking price, so Im kinda poud. Im sure the shop owner is pretty proud too that she only discounted by 50Thb.....
Well its Simones turn on the computer now. We are meeting Simones friend Mark shortly. He is taking us out for cocktails at sunset. I know, I know.. its a hard life, but I will try to steel myself and find a way to get by..
Signing off...
I am one who is always up for a mission when I travel- something to try and achieve or find whilst also exploring and discovering things about a place. Our first mission (which we chose to accept) was to find the beautiful Tus guesthouse highly recommended to us by our lovely friends Tab and Anna. So off we go, following a really well drawn mud-map. We crossed the crazy busy road without being run over, and then started wandering through little alley ways where the real Thai life takes place. People washing clothes, making food, chilling out .others working at shops, or markets selling shoes and bric a brac, or making quick take way dishes in their food carts. We stopped to try pad thai, fried bananas, and fruit whenever it appealed. It was such a great little wander, a great insight into the seemingly less complicated lives which are lived here. When we meandered down one little alleyway, an old Thai lady, I reckon no less than 80 years old, slowly pushed a creaky old cart down the narrow alley and when she passed us, gave us a smile and a wai (the prayer greeting Thai people give each other like wed give a handshake in the west) and it was very touching. Anyway, we were determined not to abort mission to find Tus, so tried several times to back-track and turn down a different road, hoping that each one was the one marked on our map. In the end, when we went down one road that took us to City Hall and a huge Wat (temple) we decided we were nowhere near Tus guesthouse and decided to just go into the Wat instead!
I love Thai architecture- the angles and colours really appeal to me. The sharp points and curves of the roofs and the straightness of pillars along with the abundant statues, big gold doors, and huge golden Buddhas makes them very visually appealing. I also love the sense of peace and serenity whenever I enter a Buddhist temple, they are remarkable places. It`s easy to forget there is crazy traffic and noise happening outside the temple walls. Once wed had a good explore, we gave up on achieving our mission and decided that Tus was a place you had to be taken to. There are just too many small alleys that could be the one hes on! The journey was a fun one though and totally worth it, even if we didnt get to our destination.
As we walked back to our guesthouse in the steamy, thick and humid air, we passed many shops that sold Buddhist artifacts to make into shrines. Workers sat outside the shops and painted in gold and red- some of the Buddha statues were metres high!
We whiled away an hour or two drinking cheap beer and watching people go by. I always get the feeling in Asia that here, anything goes. I really love how anything that you want, you can get, as well as many things that you never even knew you wanted before! The shopping here is just so great- I have decided I just have to buy 6 Cds for 500 BHT (thats about $3 each) and I dont think Ill be able to resist the jewellery (never have been able to say no to nice pieces of silver!) Petey, I havent seen any Thai massage courses advertised yet- but I have seen plenty of massage places and dont think I will be able to resist getting a 250 BHT Thai massage for myself for much longer!
By the time sunset came, the heavens could no longer contain the massive, thick black clouds in the sky, and a torrential downpour of rain began. Mental note to self - just before the rain begins, find a nice bar and stay there til the rain stops. We got caught in the rain and had to run into the first restaurant we could find to take cover. It was actually an ok place, where we ate our dinner and chilled out for a while. We were both completely exhausted though and had an early night.
There is just so much to entice and excite when traveling and I am very much back into the swing of it. In my element once more- perhaps I am a gypsy whos never meant to stay still for too long!
Update: The above was written on my computer this morning. Since I wrote this, we have been adventuring through the crazy streets of Bangkok. Tuk tuks are a very precarious but super fun mode of transport. We just made our driver Charlie a bit better off, but were able to keep the rich tailors from getting our money. Ah, Thailand. Found a great vegetarian restaurant for lunch- my god, I love Thai food. Definitely thinking that I can handle the lifestyle for a long time!! Oh, and we have already learnt four key Thai phrases- Hello, How much is this, where is the toilet? and Thank-you. Will try and learn one phrase a day. Well, the afternoon rain is about to happen so muct go find that bar to retreat to when the downpour comes.....
I just have to write a quick entry describing the amazing day we had yesterday. With many, many thanks to my old friend Mark (who runs his business here in Bangkok), we were able to experience the best that Bangkok has to offer, in terms of sublime hotels, bars and restaurants for the wealthy who come here. Mark met us at the busy, bohemian, and bustling Kao San Road and we battled through the Bangkok traffic to get to our destination- a bar named the Banyan Tree. The bar is situated in the roof top of an exclusive hotel in the richer touristic part of town (as opposed to the smelly long-time traveller backpacker area :-) ) We whizzed up the elevators in the equisitely decored hotel and came out at the top of the building where the most amazing view of the whole of Bangkok greeted us! Completely sureal and such a suprise!
The original intentionwas to have cocktails at sunset and watch the sun set over the most spectacular view as we sipped them, but traffic delays meant that we came as the city was already alight with millions of lights as far as the eye could see. It was like a city made of many Christmas trees, and was just remarkable! Unfortunately, no sooner had our Singapore Slings arrived and we watched as several rain clouds quickly blew our way- we could literally see the clouds moving over us!- and the staff escorted us to the next level down which was protected by a roof. Equally as amazing at this level, we also were tretaed to a lovely breeze which cooled down the thick, evening monsoon air. Here, Mark and I were able to catch up on the past 18 months since we last met up which was just lovely.
After our drinks, Mark treated us to dinner at another amazing restaurant called Face. Another cocktail and an Indian meal in surrounds which were in such stark contrast to those we`ve been in the last few days- wooden walls and tables, with decor of Indian style. At the entrance to the building was a pond where there were huge fish swimming and even a hot spa! The meal was delicious and the desert was divine- Mark ands Mal had Creme Brulee and I went for a white chocloate and berry mouse but these deserts were like no other, decadently decorated with chocolate and syrups and fruit and sorbet.
It was truly a spectacular night (we`re forever grateful Mark!!) where I not only got to catch up and reminisc and have a laugh about other times we`ve met in foreign lands, but also got to see the contrasts that do exist in a places like Thailand (and other Asian cities I have been to such as Shanghai!) where people with a bit of cash can really choose to live it up in style.
But now it`s back to being backpackers...we`re catching a sleeper train down to Surathani and then a bus and boat to Koh Pan Ngan where we`re going to do NOTHING (except get massages, sleep, read, swim and drink cocktails) for a week or so. Cannot wait!
Well I`m assuming that most of Asia has a large separation between rich and poor (probably even moreso than Thailand), but yesterday it hit me in the face. Yesterday afternoon, we met up with Simones friend Mark for drinks. Mark if you are reading this, thanks so much. We had a wicked and unique time, and would never have done anything like that !
Anyways, Mark met us in Khao San road and took us to a rooftop bar on one of Bangkoks highest buildings. I`ve never been anywhere like it. It was so surreal, one minute being in a street full of cars, stalls, beggars and noise, and the next minute being Waid in every direction by the hotel staff and looking over the entirety of Bangkok from the height of 60 something storeys. The city stretches incredibly far in every direction. The place where the lights end looks less like a city border and more like the horizon.
I can see now why the Thai are renowned for their hospitality. I think the ratio of staff to Clientele would have been about 3:1 and service is merely a glance away. It would definitely have been the right situation where one could pull out their phone and say something like "yes, Ill take 3 million shares. Yes thats right. From the cayman account. Oh, and fuel the jet. Lunch with Fidel in an hour.".
This Indian place that Mark took us to was amazing. They had a paleosaur in one of the ponds!! I shite you not. It wasnt an alligator, nor a fish. Staff on hand with umbrellas to take you from the taxi etc.. And get this.. there is ice... in the urinals!!!
Our only summation was that either they want your pee to be an interactive an exciting experience (how many cubes can I melt this time?), or that the place is so cool that even your whiz is "on the rocks".
Well we are off shortly to Koh-pa-Ngan on an overnight train. Im being a bit of a puss-wah and opting out of the 12 hour bus trip. Maybe on the way back :)
Peace all and talk soon
I thought it was about time that I took time out of my very hectic schedule of sleeping, reading, eating, lounging, swimming in idyllic waters, snorkeling, lying in the hammock, riding on the back of the scooter, drinking cheap beers and yoga to actually write and tell you all about it! Yeah, just have to rub it in!
My past few days have consisted of exactly what Ive just written, except I thought Id save the bit about food poisoning to paragraph two, so as to not spoil the picture! We are now in Day 4 of our time on Koh Pan Ngnan Island, a truly picture-postcard-perfect paradise. We are staying in a bungalow which costs $7 a night and which is literally 20 metres from the beach. The beach has soft white sand and coconut palms, with waters of many shades of blue and green. It is just way too idyllic to be true, but it is!
It was a mission to get here- 14 hours on a train, then 25 mins on a bus to the ferry terminal and then 4 hours on a ferry to get here- but completely worth it. Id almost even be tempted to say it was worth me getting food poisoning and spending an entire night vomiting and with diarrhea and then feeling nauseous and with stomach cramps for an entire day. I am sure that this violent illness was from food I ate on the train and was even dubious about at the time. Anna, at least this time I had a loo close by and wasnt stuck on an Indian all-nighter bus that was stopping for no-one! All good now though- I was kinda hoping it would be longer than a week though before one of us got sick!
We hired a scooter yesterday and because I was still not feeling 100% and because I knew it would make Mals day, I let him drive and I pillioned on back (don`t worry Cheryle, he drives really well!). It was actually great to not be the driver for a change and to take it all in as a passenger! We drove through some shitty roads to get to a nearby beach which is possibly even more paradisical than the one were at- very quiet and out of the way. We snorkeled for a few hours on the reef just out at sea and in an inlet- didnt see heaps but it was still great and fun. Hours later we realise we got completely sunburnt while snorkeling even though we had on sun cream and we both now sport very red backs- ouch!
Scooters are the best way to get around this island and we took a big ride and even got to see a waterfall and a Chinese temple built by a local lady- it has spectacular views. There is 80% jungle on Koh Pan Ngan so you can just imagine how beautiful the scenery is- if it isnt a gorgeous beach or a mountain view, its untouched jungle national park with all kinds of wildlife like monkeys and bird and frogs.
Talking about frogs, it rained the first night we were here and I feel asleep to a cacophony of frogs, croaking in various tunes, it was like a frog symphony! I awoke to unusual bird calls and the waved lapping the shore and I thought it couldnt get much better!
It is low season at the moment which is awesome as the beaches are empty, not too many people are around and we can get things for cheaper than normal. I do wonder about all the bars and restaurants and how they make do with just a few customers every night, but I guess high season more than makes up for it when I am sure the whole island is pumping.
They say there is a jungle party happening on the 4th which we might have to scout out there was a half moon party the night I was sick and of course full moon party on the 7th I think there is probably just about any excuse for a party here! Will definitely have to go to one of them.
We are moving to a new beach on the 3rd, for a change of beautiful scenery. Until then, will be doing a lot more relaxing and chilling .must have a Thai massage today- after the bumpy ride on back of the scooter yesterday I think it is more than necessary!
Love to you all!
Sim xoxo
No really it is we both have the most killer sunburn on our backs and in fact the last few days have been an experiment in seeing who can get the strangest looking tan. So far Simone is on a winner with the Bantana the tan that one gets through usage of a bandana.
Koh Pa Ngan is simply beautiful. The ocean is crystal clear, coconut trees are abundant, the food is cheap, the scenery stunning. Thai fishing boats in the ocean, little kids racing around on motorbikes, and gasoline stations that draw fuel from a big tub. I guess its pretty tourist oriented here and I think in a year or two it will be on the turn (By the time we came back from our motorbike ride today a resort had been built and opened next to us) but for now this place is very cool and great place to chill. Nothing to do but eat healthy food, swim, explore, or cruise around on a motorbike that costs around $7 per day.
Drive through some of the inland roads and the English signage starts to disappear.
To re-cap quickly on the last few days, we caught an overnight train from Bangkok and then a ferry to the islands. Simone got food poisoning from the train food and re-enacted several scenes from The Exorcist with stunning accuracy on our first night here.
Weve been snorkelling (hence back burn), chilling, reading, drinking, swimming and today driving a motorbike. That was heaps of fun. Simone let me drive and we only almost crashed once which I think is a good effort.
To be honest I think the lack of things to report is the best testament to how good this place is.
The locals are very friendly and quite cool. Starting to make friends with the guys that own our bungalow. Everyone says hello, smiles, and tries their Engrish out on us.
Update: went for a massive cruise on the motorbike today to look for our next abode. Had Yao is awesome and very chilled out, but we are ready to go out and have a few beers. Checked out Haad Rai. Its extremely touristy, but hopefully well be able to find somewhere on the quiet side to chill before the full moon party.
Ps: The fuel here is 28 Baht per litre.. which means the whole thing in Australia of "we are keeping the prices as low as possible" is complete BS IMHO... /end rant
Hope everyone is well, and we will write again soon!
Ive just reached forward to try and type something about the last few days, but the hand keeps withdrawing as it is hard to describe. We havent done anything exceptional in the opening a chimpanzee orphanage on a remote undiscovered island using only our bare hands and twigs and bark kind of way, and in fact weve probably done pretty much what every other tourist does here (so you may find this boring if youve been here) but for me the last 48 hours have been very different and amazing in the sense of starting to feel really free and getting in to the groove of this trip.
We bid farewell to Haad Yao, and hello to Sunset Beach, Haad Rin. Haad Rin is the tourist mecca for Ko Pa Ngan, where the full moon party is set.
Sunset Beach is the cheaper and quieter side of Haad Rin.
I didnt think that rally car speeds and manoeuvrability were possible in a bongo van taxi, but our next driver proved me mistaken on that point. It would have been great to take a photo of that exact moment when not a single part of mine or Simones body, or our luggage for that matter, was in any contact with the van.
Anyways, he dropped us off at the beginning of a wooden walkway on the beach that disappears around a headland and a sheer rock face. Forgive me for describing the following in avid detail, but the place we are at is magical.
This wooden walkway is in the process of being re-constructed and is only half completed. The walkway exists for the sole purpose of getting you to the Lighthouse bungalows, where we are currently staying. The last 30 metres of the walkway havent been finished, and the original structure is still present... kind of. Its burnt, broken, rickety, dangerous, above rock and water, and lots of fun to go over. I think that sets the mood perfectly for this tucked-away place.
The bungalows are set against a steep rocky mountain, and I think I lack the vocabulary to describe the view. The common room is set in to the rock and overlooks the ocean. There are hammocks and papa-sans inside in which to recline and look out. Gold fish swim in the indoor ponds, and there are beautiful flat rocks on the waterfront on which to sunbake. This place has an awesome energy.
Our bungalow has holes in the wall and no toilet, but the mattress is firm and the mosquito net is great. The owners are friendly too and the food is great.
For me the best part though has been meeting the other people here. The travellers staying here seem set apart from the hoards of clubbers preparing for the full moon party. They are witty, loquacious, highly intelligent and have some amazing stories. Everybody is so keen to share their experiences and their ideas, and the conversations are fascinating.
Haad Rin is pumping and a lot of fun. Whisky buckets on the beach, a place that sells happy shakes, sound systems in the pubs that would not be out of place at a festival and of course the ubiquitous fire twirlers.
Well thats all for now... well write more soon. Thanks everyone for putting your comments up on the message board. Simone and I really look forward to reading them when we log in. Have fun at the full moon party mum, we will too :)
This recount is also a bit of a muddled ramble of some of my thoughts at present- sorry its so long!
It was difficult to leave the idyllic and tranquil shores of Long Beach and to say goodbye to our beachside bungalow at Long Beach Resort, but we both felt a change of scene was needed. Long Beach is beautiful but also very quiet. We were both in the mood to meet some other people and have a night out. This meant wed have to move to the eastern side of Koh Pan Ngan, where the parties happen.
The day before we were due to leave Long Beach, we explored the areas on the east of Koh Pan Ngan on the scooter, but were a bit despondent when we didnt find anything quite as nice as where we were. We were starting to think we had been completely spoilt and that we were going to have to settle for a place that we werent going to like so much just so we could get a bit closer to some action .we really didnt want to stay in Haad Rin, the little town where the Full Moon Party takes place. Wed made a quick sojourn to the party town, and found it to be overcrowded, commercialized and full of Israelis traveling in their packs (which are quite unfriendly) and it was a little disheartening. The town is ok for a night or two out being social, but to actually stay in .not really our cup of tea. If only there was an in between! Anyway, we decided to head over to Haad Rin anyway and knew that a place would come up, hopefully a bit out of town; that was just right for us. And we were right!
Id heard about a place called the Lighthouse Bungalows which I had a promising feeling about, so we asked a taxi driver to take us there. What a scary ride this was! We basically had to 4WD down a bumpy, windy dirt track and our driver was crazy! We had to hold on tight to not fly out the back but it was quite exhilarating. At the end of the track he stopped and dropped us off at the end of a rickety looking boardwalk. So off we trundled with our packs, continuing down what was quite a mysterious board walk that wound around a mountain which actually forms the southern peninsular of the island. When we got to the end of the walkway we came out at a place we just knew was IT.
We came to a restaurant which looks out over some huge boulders, with Koh Samui on the horizon and a beautiful expanse of green-blue ocean before us. Here is a place set in a different kind of beauty to the white sandy beach and coconut palm lined beach we had been staying at before. Its a rugged kind of beauty where the ocean laps against the coral and rocky shore, where there is no beach as such, but an area where you can dip in the water and sway with the ocean as it moves against the rocks. The view is spectacular, and in the restaurant itself there are hammocks to lie in and just while away the hours in a serenity that is an earthy kind of peaceful calm. I almost cried yesterday as I became all consumed by all the beauty and wonder around me. I feel so fucking lucky! I cant believe a place like this exists!
We inquired with the very friendly staff about rooms and there was a bungalow available! Yippee! This bungalow is very basic, in fact, there are holes in the wall and our door doesnt shut properly and it has no bathroom of its own .but it has a big comfy bed, a mosquito net without holes and a fan and a balcony .it also has a bazillion dollar view which makes it all worthwhile! We have to trek up a mountain with about a 60feet elevation; its a hike, but sooooooooo amazing!! All I heard last night as I fell asleep was waves crashing and wind blowing through the trees, just magical.
The best thing about the Lighthouse Bungalows is that its a 15 minute walk along the beach to get to the mayhem of town, so we are far away from the action until we decide we want to be among it. All the yobbos who were trying to avoid in town cant be bothered walking along the magical walkway to where our sanctuary exists, so we can have the best of both worlds.
Weve been in two minds about the Full Moon Party on the 8th .do we or dont we go? I think our minds have now been made up, as we have made friends with some of the other backpackers staying here and I think well have a good time with them. Three cool guys from Brooklyn, NYC, two crazy Irish lasses and a lone Canadian traveler. This place has a very social atmosphere, and last night we went into town to see what kind of vibe it has at night time and for a bit of an explore. Mal and I bumped into our new traveler friends (its not a big place) and got quite merry drinking buckets. Yes, buckets of booze. Ive decided that Thais like to take things to extremes. Why measure out booze in shots and drink out of a small glass when you can measure it in a plastic bucket that can contains a litre of liquid?? These buckets are extremely economical- a whole small bottle of local Sangsom whiskey, a can of coke and a bottle of red bull is just $7- and it comes with plenty of straws to share with others. They are also extremely lethal! The whiskey is strong, and the red bull is waaaaay stronger than the stuff we get at home. Cigarettes also apparently come in one strength only- 17 mg- and we found a place that makes Happy Shakes. Inquiries about what makes them so happy revealed its the magic mushrooms that they contain. Yep, in Thailand, nothing can be done in halves.
We had a dance on the beach last night after consuming a few buckets between us, and I cant get over the size of the speaker systems that each of the bars on the beach have! Again, theres those extremes. An extremely beautiful place where extreme fun can be had if you want to!
Were also close to some walking trails that go to some waterfalls and into the jungle I think well be staying here for quite some time. Oh, and the food at the restaurant is excellent and cheap. What more can we ask for??
I think its fair to say we are having an awesome time. I just love this island, its a special place, it has a force, a spirit, an energy about it which I know so many travelers who come here just to party will never even experience or even care to find out about. I guess that is what makes it so special, only those who care to delve into the islands beauty will get to feel it and experience it.
Today my day started by opening my bungalow door to see the amazing view- the expansive ocean with Samui in the distance and then we did some yoga on the nearby beach, dipped in the ocean, sunbaked on the rocks, drunk the free coffee the restaurant provides its guests, ate delicious stuffed Thai omelettes and drunk fresh mango shakes and have also done a lot of nothing. Its a travellers life, but someones got to do it I guess .
Love to all
Sim xoxoxo
Today we decided to explore a pathway at the back of the bungalows. The path goes straight up the mountain and there is a lighthouse (of sorts) at the top. Its a single unimpressive light at the top of a tall steel structure (which Im pretty sure may be electrified...). Trust the Thai to build a lighthouse that politely blinks Oh hello there. You may want to think about turning around sometime soon as you are getting awfully close to land mass as opposed to our Byron Bay Behemoth which blasts brightly FAAARK!!! FUCKING ROCKS!!!!! TURN THE FUCKING BOAT AROUND!!
After the lighthouse we stumbled upon an old abandoned bungalow resort on the cliffs of a hidden cove. It was in a beautiful state of entropy. My guess is the fact that a potential guest would have to trek through 15 minutes of jungle to get there may have helped in demise.
We attempted unsuccessfully to make it back via the rocks on the shoreline, and got a little stranded when we realised that we couldnt un-jump down certain rocks. Im sure Sim will write on this so all I will say is that she was very brave ;)
Got an early night pending the full moon party. Im still getting used to this concept that early by traveller standards is 2am. Beer is evil.
Just a quick entry to say that we did get off our butts and pried ourselves away from the calm, breezy Lighthouse restaurant where we have been spending all our time, and we went adventuring. We walked up an old, steep brick stairway near our bungalows which led us to the actual lighthouse (more like a light tower structure) and then further down another track which led us to an old abandoned resort. It was all covered in weeds and had been looted, but was really quite sureal to find- conjured many images of country and western style ghost towns. I wondered for a moment why nobody was squatting in the broken bungalows and then remembered that I was in Thailand and that you could live in a nice bungalow with running water and electricity for just $7! We then went climbing through some huge boulders and tried to reach around the headland, but couldnt climb around. It all then got a bit scary as we had to backtrack, and it was more difficult coming back than it had been going over. We had also run out of water and it was at least 30 degrees, and I got a bit panicked that Id get stuck, or Id fall and hurt myself, or that I just wouldnt be able to physically climb back over some of the boulders. Luckily Mal is very patient and coaxed and coached me back to safety uninjured bar a few scratches on my legs and sore hands from the rough surface of the rocks. Definitely enjoyed my beer after the ordeal, although it was a fun adventure!
Had massages the next day, just before the party, and it was AMAZING. These Thai women have the magic touch! Bliss for just 200 BHT!
Well I dont remember what we did in the morning, but certainly the first memorable thing that happened was I got bit by a monkey! Dont worry, Its all good. He is someones pet, and he has nipped people before with no ill effect. I bought the little bugger a banana, and he climbed on me, nipped my shoulder, stole my water bottle and the banana!!! Then when I let him climb on me again (ever so tentatively), he tried to get in to my money pouch! I feel sorry for him though. He stays on a rope outside the bar his owner runs.
After showing the monkey who was boss (him apparently he kept my water bottle), we each had a Thai massage which was simply heavenly.
The full moon party was a lot of fun.
We went out with the guys from the lighthouse, who we have fast become friends with. These guys are awesome. They have the quickest wits and dont seem to need to sleep. We going to catch up with them again in New York and the lassies in Ireland.
We started at a place called Mellow Mountain which is this tacky fluro place on a hill which is great to overlook the seething masses. They also had a rather eclectic menu
Lanterns being released in to the air, around 8000 people on the beach, buckets of booze being carried by all, and a variety of awesome music.
Dylan if youre reading this, I thought of you. They were playing hard psy-trance and we danced all night and in to the morning. Wish you could have been here to share the experience and do your crazy groove.
The simultaneous sunrise/moonset was spectacular. It was amazing seeing both celestial objects in the sky at once.
Anyway Im going to bed know as I think my face is about to fall off
We have been having the most highly sociable past few days, chilling out at the Lighthouse Bungalows with some other travelers who are like kindred spirits. We have been out partying but also just bantering while doing nothing (well, playing cards and Yahtzee is about it!) with these fun-loving people and just having a wild time. So, despite all advice to the contrary, we decided to stay on in Koh Pan Ngnan to celebrate the Full Moon Party.
Reasons for initially not wanting to go included: it would be full of yobs, it wouldnt have a nice vibe, the music would be boring, it would be too commercial and there would be too many people to have a good time. In the end, I decided I wanted to go because: Id had lots of fun and mischief in the town and on the beach prior to the party and I wanted to see what fun could be had with thousands more around, I knew we would have a good time with our friends, I was here and it would be silly not to at least check it out, and also I was really curious and figured that it is one of those things that I have always wanted to do.
So we went, and we had a marvelous time! People who say the party is boring must have some majorly high expectations; those who say the music sux mustnt be looking hard enough, because there are many bars playing all kinds of music for all tastes; those who say it is too commercial well, yes, I agree it is a bit. BUT, the whole town of Haad Rin is commercial and actually exists because of the full moon parties! A whole industry which forms the local economy resides on the party being commercial and you wouldnt really go to Koh Pan Ngan if you hate to party (there are parties happening all the time!). The only reason there are places to by food from called Mr Dong 100% Restaurant, Mr K Crepe stands and Chicken Scnitzel Corner are because tourists come and eat food from them! Would I even be on Koh Pan Ngan if it wasn`t for the Full Moon Party? Chicken or the egg?
It was actually loads of fun dancing, Mal and I found a bar on the beach that played some awesome psy trance which we boogied away to and we drank lots of buckets and beers with our friends and partook in Mellow Mountain surprise cocktails . The night seemed to go very quickly, as these nights do when built up so much. I can equate this night to New Years Eve- dont take it all to seriously then it works out well! I love dancing on the beach in beautiful surrounds with some good tunes, the raver in me will always be attracted to these sorts of parties I guess!
We got to watch the moon set and the sun rise simultaneously, I got some top shots on my camera, it was beautiful. Danced for a while longer, until my ears hurt from the boom and bass of the speakers and the sun was so hot and bright burning down on us that we had to retreat and head back to our sanctuary for a swim.
I had a good night, it was memorable for lots of the interactions I had, the music I heard and danced to, and the cheap booze I drank! I thought the vibe was positive- yeah sure, drunken louts abounded and there were many messed up, passed out people, but we just avoided them. The setting was really just magnificent. I guess this party is like any party- its what you make it! We made the most of it I feel and whilst I wouldnt say it is the best rave I have ever been to, it is up there!
Now I just need to get some sleep ..
No, dont worry- not me. However, I have observed many hard-working Thais in the past few days of doing nothing, who I just have to mention in this blog.
First person to talk about is the hard-working handyman type guy at the Lighthouse Guesthouse, as well as the receptionist Mai and the cook Poon. My goodness! I was witness to several sunrises whilst at Koh Pan Ngan and was privy to the day-to-day running and organization of the guest house. In the morning, the hard-working Thai boy would come to open the restaurant, sweep the floors and arrange the tables and chairs, before he would then sort through rubbish and then weed the garden, water, cut (all manually using schekitours!) the gardens and grass meanwhile, Mai would be up and at em, dealing with the day ahead of people arriving and leaving and Poon would be chopping veggies and taking and making food orders. Mai and Poon both worked looooong days that started at 9 and wouldnt often finish until after 11pm! Granted, they get to stay in a beautiful place (no doubt for free or very cheap) and they can take breaks and rest throughout the day, but I still found their strong work ethic and joy of being at work remarkable! Especially the young boy who whistled while he sorted the garbage items for recycling and did even the most menial tasks (like replacing a bin liner) with a pleased flourish.
Which brings me to the ultimate in happiness at work! Louise, I am about to talk about Koh Taos pancake making man which you told me about and I am sure it must be the same man you wanted to take home with you. What a precious character! I am sure he is well known on the island, not just for making the best crepes ever but also for the show he puts on while making them! Its a whole performance, from the moment he takes your order, to throwing down a piece of dough on his working bench which he then skillfully forms into a tiny small pancake, to the way he throws oil and butter into his pan with an energetic flourish whilst simultaneously cleaning the rest of his equipment and trolley and then the way he fills the crepe with yummy goodness before topping it with condensed milk and nuts. Even cutting the crepe into pieces and presenting it is done with an exuberance that makes his crepe making performance one that draws crowds!
Im sure there are Thais unhappy in their jobs out there, but many of the Thai living on the islands seem to really make the most of their positions and go about their chores, no matter how mundane, with a happiness and pleasure ad pride which really motivates me!
It was with reluctance on the 9th, that Mal and I dragged ourselves away from the joys of Koh Pan Ngan and the beauty of the Lighthouse and comfort of our new friends to make the journey over to Koh Tao. It was just a short hour-and-half ferry from Koh Pan Ngan to Koh Tao- it was jam-packed with people (full moon party residuals) and I was pleased we got a seat in the aircon cabin! On the ferries, there are always touts selling resorts and other touristy packages to the new-comers to the island, and so we used this as an opportunity to research which dive operator wed go with for doing our PADI Open Water Certificate. We have many things on our side at the moment- its low season and this means we can negotiate hard for good deals! We spoke to about 5-6 different on the operators on the ferry and sussed out what they were willing to offer and which companies seemed the best. In the end, we decided that Bans seemed the most professional (although not the cheapest course) and could also offer us the most in terms of accommodation benefits. With Bans, we could do our whole PADI cert and get FREE accommodation in a bungalow for 4 nights for just 9600 TH Baht. Pretty good deal which makes it totally worthwhile to be here in low season!
They had someone meet us at the ferry terminal and take us to the resort where I started to get really annoyed as I felt like I was being herded into something I wasnt mentally prepared to do on this day. They first showed us a room which was not what we wanted- wed been told we could have a bungalow. They told us wed have to pay for a bungalow, which we obviously didnt want to do. Luckily, we had a few second and third choice of operators so we told Bans wed go with them if they didnt give us a bungalow (the room was ok, but had two single beds and not a double and was in a noisy position). Our hardcore negotiations and threats to go elsewhere got things going in our favour and they ended up offering s a bungalow for free with the course- whoopee, a win in our favour! However, no sooner had we seen the bungalow and agreed to take it than we were told we had to meet for orientation for the dive course that started the next day. I was completely exhausted at this stage, and also absolutely ravenous for food (it was 3pm and had last eaten at 9am plus I was still in recovery mode from full moon party!) and had just been so much looking forward to having a day off before starting the course to chill out a bit. This was starting to piss me off! The orientation would be just half an hour, I was assured so off we go and TWO HOURS LATER (!!!) we leave, after being made to watch a preliminary video and actually start learning some material! I was feeling rather unpleased, not ripped off as such (because we had ended up with a good deal) but kind of like I was being pushed and pressured into doing something, which is never really cool.
Koh Tao itself is quite small- just 20km from north to south- and were staying in the heart of the town at Sairee beach. Its just a small place (and at the moment, quiet too) place, built with enough restaurants and bars of various niceness and prices to cater for everyone. The whole island is really just designed around catering for the multitude of divers who come every year. They say Koh Tao is one of the Top 5 diving sites in the world, so you can just imagine the amount of tourists who come from around the world to dive here!
It kind of reminds me of a small skiing town which only really exists because of its snowfields and skiers. Everyone who works and lives on the island is in some way associated with diving or the related services and infrastructure. We have found our favorite little Thai restaurant- it seems the locals all frequent the place and for good reason. We just stumbled across it and the cheap prices appealed- then the delicious food took us back again for more meals! I think Mal has found a new addiction to take over from Pad Thai which I think hes had every day since being here- Massaman Curry (an old fave of mine which I introduced to him). The weather has been pretty dull- rainy and overcast (it is low season for a reason I guess!) but I can see that this is another beautiful island. How Id love to live on one of these islands one day. Hmmm .maybe Koh Tao could do with a TESOL training college catering to backpackers on their way up to Bangkok for work the land prices here are ridiculously cheap. A peek in the windows of the real estate today revealed a piece of land could be purchased for 1 million Baht ..
Either that, or maybe working in the diving industry is a goer but more about my diving experiences in the next blog,
Well today we sadly bade farewell to the Lighthouse Collective and the shores of Ko Pa Ngan. Fortunately we get to meet these awesome people again in New York and Ireland, where they have promised to show us the shittiest dives their hometowns have to offer.
Given this knowledge that we will be plumbing the depths of the diviest of dives, we thought it appropriate to get certified as divers, so we are currently in Ko Tao completing an open water course. Ko Tao is just north of Ko Pa Ngan and is one of the five best dive sites in the world so we are lucky to be able to come in the low season while its cheap cheap.
A side note here. The roosters in Thailand lack self confidence. Aussie roosters (and most roosters worldwide.. as far as I am aware in my paltry poultry knowledge.. tee hee) let out a full cock-a-doodle-doooooo! Where as the Thai roosters here just do a half arsed Cock-a-doodle-errgh. They cut off the dooo each time and it sounds like they have been strangled mid crow. And yes, we have been in ear shot of roosters in almost every destination.
Or so they say in some of the very cut and dry (and cheesy American) PADI diving videos and reading material. We have now completed our first full day of our course and I am just loving it! Its not my first time diving- I did an intro to diving in Cairns with Kylie from uni years ago- but this is the first time Ive taken it seriously (although I have had the inclination to do a course for a looooong time). I am so pleased we are doing it here- its cheap, professional due to so many operators working in competition, and also amazing place to dive. Jackie, thanks sooo much for recommending Koh Tao to us!
The theory is a bit much- our homework each night has be4n to read about a quarter of the Open Water Divers Manual provided to us which has meant the most tedious amount of reading Ive had to do since my Masters. and has resulted in both Mal and me falling asleep with books falling on us, lights on, fully clothed etc. Its not riveting reading and is actually quite overwhelming as there is sooo much to learn and remember! I now know how it feels for students on Wednesday night of the TI course!! We went into the water today to learn our skills and will be going into the ocean tomorrow which is all very exciting! I was a bit worried about the whole breathing underwater thing- a very normal thing to be concerned about- but it was fine and I just know I am going to fall in love with this recreation/sport. It has the potential to be as expensive as skiing too I reckon- there is much equipment which can be easily hired wherever you dive, but which I am sure would be desirable to purchase when diving more frequently! My yoga practice over the past 5 years is also handy- I went through much less air than others in my group due to being able to naturally take long, slow, deep breaths when underwater which is the ideal and golden rule for scuba diving. I am excited to go out on the boat tomorrow as I already really enjoyed today and it was just in a super chlorinated, foul, murky swimming pool- we will see real reefs and fish in the ocean!
The feeling of weightlessness and the different sounds and feelings make it such an amazing sensural experience- I can totally see how people would become addicted! I reckon the pure air that we breath while diving has to have some positive effects- although maybe the excess nitrogen is making me feel totally exhausted right now as I am sooo tired!!
So whilst we are not anywhere near as hard working as some of the Thai people, we arent being too lazy at the moment although it is completely fun learning how to dive! Despite my initial hesitation at being railroaded into this course, I am pleased we chose Bans, as they are doing a great job and our group is great. Will have more news about diving as the days progress- by end of the week well both be certified!
Well day two really Yesterday they herded us in to a room as soon as we arrived at our bungalow so we could watch an orientation video, thereby locking us in to our contract . Heres a tip, the touts on the boat dont mention that orientation is straight after you arrive. Its all designed so you are railroaded to a particular course and accommodation. Fortunately as its the low season we pretended not to be impressed until they gave us a private bungalow for free for four nights.
Anyways, the dive course is great. Its easy to spot a dive instructor because they are the only ones smoking. Im sure that at some stage one has gone under with nicotine mixed in to their tank
We have now just returned from our first two real dives! Sooo excitement! It is truly another world down below the shore and the reefs here have so much living in them! Apparently todays viz or visibility is not as good as it could be due to currents and rain, but not having much to compare it to, I thought it was amazing! I think I was a fish in a past life, as it all feels very natural for me underwater, and whilst I still dont feel 100% at ease (so much to still think about!) I know that after a few more dives those things will become more natural and my skills will get better, and it will become even more enjoyable. Our instructor is great- very thorough and patient, and this also helps when starting something that is so new and somewhat strange really! I can also see it would be important to keep your diving skills up-to-date- which will just meanb having to dive regularly sigh
We have another two dives tomorrow which I cant wait for! We hope to go to a site where they saw sharks today!
Were about to go out and have dinner with our dive group, so must be off!
Love to all!
Sim xoxo
We are now certified PADI Open Water Divers after completing 4 dives and a heap of academics! It is really exciting! We are both quite hungover today after having a few celebratory drinks last night with the others from our course, it was a good night but were feeling the pain today!
I think I am totally addicted to diving! After my second dive yesterday all I could think about was when I could go and do another one! As it turns out, the dive school offered us a great deal on the Advanced Open Water diving course, and after about 5 minutes consideration (more like a quick budgeting overview than anything!) we decided to go for it! It is very cheap to do the qualification here, plus we get our accommodation for free, so we figured why not??
In this two day course, we get to do another 5 dives, including a deep dive to 30 m (this is where we are likely to experience nitrogen narcosis ie. happy gas type feeling!), a night dive (which is meant to be just spectacular as you can see the true colours of all the fish), as well as navigation dives and a naturalist dive where we can try and identify different coral and fish species (as opposed to a naturist dive which must involve diving naked :-) ) it is all very exciting!
There are some scary parts of diving, as it does come with risks, and when I did my first dive I was really nervous. However, most of the risks are avoidable if you follow all the procedures, and it is no more dangerous than driving a car or flying in a plane .I also think that as with any extreme adventure sport, that little risky thrill is all part of the fun! For me anyway!
The other thing that I did which just topped off an amazing day is fire twirling! It was actually all very synchronistic .at Koh Pan Ngan I decided I was bored of my ribbon pois and wanted to play with actual fire .so I have been deciding whether to buy some fire pois or not .I saw some at a shop here and was umming and aaring about whether to buy them or not but decided I didnt want to carry around kerosene smelling pois in my pack then, wouldnt you know it, we went to a bar last night and this Thai dude lights up some fire pois and starts attempting to twirl them on the beach he was not very good, so when he put them down I ran over and asked if I could twirl. So I did! I lit them up and twirled away and before I even knew what was happening, I had the whole bar as an audience (a little bit daunting for my first time with fire, but I was drunk so it didnt phase me!) and it was great fun! When I was finally so hot and sweaty that I had to stop, the manager of the bar came over and gave me a free beer! Such awesome fun!
Good times are happening, that is for sure! I am looking forward to tomorrow for the next phase of the scuba course to begin, and also for this headache to be gone .
Love to all!
My splitting headache this morning has forced me to try to piece together last night. Surely the 3 wines over dinner couldnt have done this to me. Or was it 4? Ooh and that beer too. Shit. Then those Malibu concoctions at the other place then the whiskey bucket aaah.
To make things better, they are constructing something next to our bungalow so we were greeted by banging hammers at 7am :(
Fortunately Sai the charming lady boy has put us in a quieter room.
Okay now that my bitch is out of the way, the dive course was great! So great in fact, that we are staying on for another few days to do an advanced open water course. Speaking with absolutely no experience of any other dive sites in the world, I can say with unquestionable authority that Ko Tao is one of the best ;) The advanced course will allow us to dive to 30 metres (which opens up a lot more dive sites worldwide and is the first step towards becoming a dive master)
I think something that adds to the experience is that the Thai have a relaxed opinion of what constitutes safe. Yesterday a dive boat came too close to ours and snagged our descent line as we were going down. Electricity lines sometimes hang at head height, and motorcyclists, cars and pedestrians share the same 7 foot wide walkway. Nothing really dangerous, and ones awareness of their surrounds increases anyway, so its great to experience something a bit less insulated than the clean concrete cities back home.
There is one matter of serious concern however. Simone has become embroiled in the murky and dangerous underworld of Thai Thong Thieves (the TTT)
Simone`s massaging thongs were stolen from a restaurant, to which she reacted by stealing someone elses. This is an understandable move (and apparently somewhat acceptable here).. HOWEVER... to my shock she UPGRADED her stolen pair of thongs when she saw a better pair sitting outside a shop on the following day (lime green pattern with flowers).
I know this will come as a shock to you all, but I felt the truth should be known in case she descends further in to the depths of the Thai thong underworld....
Hope everyone is well. Thanks again for putting your entries on the message board!! Dav, we await your challenge eagerly, and we will remember your promise of a kiss on the bottom upon our return.
I just wanted to share some photos I took of the beautiful flora around the islands of Thailand. The flowers and plants have really stood out for me on this trip, they are quite beautiful! Hope you enjoy!
Sim xo
What a busy but fun past few days! On Saturday and Sunday we completed our dives and studies towards our Adavanced Open Water Diving Certificate and we passed! We did two dives on Saturday and in one we got to see and swim with sharks about 3 metres long! Then on Sunday we did three dives- the first two we navigated ourselves without a dive master or instructor with us- totally cool and so liberating!- We saw the most amazing jelly fish swimming through the reef! On Sunday night we did a night dive where we got to see illuminescence in the water and all sorts of pretty coloured corals which in daylight look totally different colours. Very fun!
I then went out and had to celebrate and it is my turn to be nursing a sore head today. Renee, I can sympathise with your efforts on Satruday night. We bumped into the wonderful but very drunkard irish lasses we met at the light house so it was only fitting that on our last night in Koh Tao we go drinking with them. Breda and Louse, you are dangerous girls to go drinking with :-)
We went to a cool bar called the Car Bar which is an old Kombie Van converted into a bar right on the beach where we got to enjoy fire twirling and then also a coconut tree climb and collect - quite random that this dude from the bar just climbed the tree and started lobbing off coconuts in all directions. Only in Thailand!
Also went to a few other bars and it all ended with me being so spasticated that when I came home (Mal left earlier and was asleep when i came home at about 3am) that i came in the room and proceeded to FALL OVER while still maintaining a conversation (of sorts) with Mal. I have bruises all over me today and I thank you so much mum for the maxilon tablets, as they got me through the ferry (2 hours) and bus to Bangkok (8 hours or something horrendous) without my queasy stomach exploding forth. When will I ever learn????
So now I am in Bangkok and it`s like returning home. We are even staying at a guesthouse called At Home which is a bit of a find- it is brand new, clean, tucked away behind Kao San rd and only costs 380BHT a night! Bargain!
Anyways, love to all! Hope all is well!! MWAH!
Q: How do you know if somebody is a dive instructor?
A: Because they tell you.
That was one of the first things our instructor told us and so far it has rung true. On our way back from Ko Tao, the guy we were with in the bus informed us of his dive instructor status within 5 minutes.
Were back in Kao San now and chilling at a nice place that has just been built, so only a few things are broken. Its great. You get to choose between a fan room or air conditioning. The fan rooms are just aircon rooms where the aircon has broken :D
Seriously those dive instructors have the life. They get paid to dive and all their meals and booze are free whenever they take a class out to a particular restaurant
Okay Im struggling for things to say (may be the beer)
Peace all.
Ah, Bangkok. It really does feel like coming home. I have been to Bangkok many times, always on the way through from one place to another, for a few days at a time. Despite its freneticness, is grubbiness, the grime, the people everywhere, the smog, and all things that really should be a deterrant, there is something comfortable about this city. Maybe it`s the ease that you can get around, and the way you can blend in with the crowds. Maybe it`s the fact you can do everything- there are temples, shops, cafes, restaurants- or you can do nothing at all, and feel like that`s ok too. There`s cheap street food- ah, 20BHT Pad Thai and coconut milk- there`s cheap fake everything and there`s cheap fun everywhere.
Today Mal and I shared a fun day cruising the streets with Cathy, my old work colleague and compadre. It is always fun for me to meet people from home in overseas places, and today we had many laughs as we did some sightseeing- visited the world`s biggest reclining Buddha at the Wat Po, and the really quite beautiful temple Wat Arun made entirely of mosaics (no shimmering gold, but some intricate designs made from old crockery left behind by Chinese merchants- this really shows resourcefulness at its best!). We ate some yummy Thai curries, some delicious coconut shakes straight from the coconut and did some shopping (Oooops! I have been so good up until today!) for some new sandals and a new watch (I am now the proud owner of some 200 Bht Burkenstocks and a 400 Bht Diesel watch (all originals of course :-) )
We even swayed Cathy into a cocktail before she had to head off to catch her flight home- hope you made it ok babe!
It`s now time to start mentally preparing for Cambodia the day after next. Can`t wait for the challenges of the border crossing and a new country to discover!
Love to all!
Sim xoxo
I gotta stay sharp.
Every day I spend in this room, Charlie is getting stronger, whilst I get weaker.
Okay sorry about that. I watched Apocalypse now before we left Aus and our room in Bangkok has a ceiling fan. If you are wondering why the fuck I am talking about Vietnam whilst in Thailand its cause I just read The Beach. Yeah very original I know If you are one of the three people on this planet who didnt read that book whilst in Thailand, I recommend it.
We are back to the strange smells and busy streets of the Kok now. Its all good though. We hung out with Simones friend Cathy today. We saw a temple made entirely out of dinner plates (I think Simone put it more eloquently though but yeah.. its dinner plates). According to the pamphlet its height is simultaneously 1 Sen, 13 Wah, 1 Sork, 1 Keub and 1 Nuit!!! I had to look on the internet though to discover that this translates to 67 metres, so that takes the cake for most artistic use of crockery in the world.
The river through Bangkok is carrying tons of debris from the floods in Burma and it looks very impressive (definitely in need of some flocculation Cathy). Apparently the monsoon season hasnt really started though and the best is yet to come.
I tried my ninja bartering skills on Kao San Road and got a gameboy advance for less than half the original asking price. I thought I would buy it cheap and sell it on eBay for a profit... but now I have checked online and simply hope I can break even. My best chance now is that there is someone dumber than me :)... hang on is dumber a word?
Our final day in Bangkok was spent shopping. I thought it would be a good idea to buy one of those thick elastic band things with a handle at either end, so I can work out whilst travelling. Our taxi driver was an ex stunt motor cyclist, and the fact that he spoke no English, nor ourselves any Thai, bore him no hindrance to his telling of stories of death defying tricks. Meanwhile of course, he is gesticulating wildly with one hand and performing a whole new set of death defying tricks with the car we are in...
After looking for ages, the best we could find was something representing a latex set of testicles, so I gave up.
Met up with Mark for another fantastic evening, we ate somewhere where you can order a miniature keg of beer (7 Litres I think). Unfortunately no usage of the Heng that evening (see Simones entry)
Our last night in Bangkok before heading into Cambodia was spent with the wonderful Mark, drinking Singha Beers and dining at a lovely riverside restaurant. We ate some delicious fish and seafood dishes, and also had our very own KEG OF BEER (!!) which sat on our table to help ourselves to as we wished. I guess it is due to the restaurant offering such large quantities of beer that they need to also offer the services of a heng. A heng, we discovered, is a Thai vomiting vestibule. I kid you not. In the mens toilet (and only in the mens- I snuck in to have a gawk!) there is a compartment set aside in the corner of the bathroom, which contains an oversized toilet bowl at chest height, as well as a little drinking fountain. The bowl is designed so that when the urge to vomit comes, you can just go for it without having to kneel to the ground to reach the bowl, and it is large enough to prevent any spew splash-back. Then there is the fountain so that you can sip some water and swish it around post-vomit, ever so conveniently. Now, I know that a heng is probably more useful for some people than others, but I am definitely one who does plenty of vomiting when I have drunk too much or am hungover (and I seem to get more than my fair share of travellers belly) so I would like to take a portable one around with me- or have one in my house one day when I settle. Such a useful addition to any bathroom I reckon!
Although Im still not sure why its only the men who get to use such a great thing!
So the time had come for the much-anticipated, researched and planned border crossing trip from Bangkok to Siem Riep in Cambodia. I had heard about and read much about the so-called scam-bus which takes unwary travelers straight from Kao San Rd to Siem Riep for the bargain basement price of 300 BHT. This cheap price is for a reason! Many travelers encounter problems and scams when they take this bus, and I refused to be one of these travelers! So I did some research on-line, had notes on-hand and braced myself for a big, adventurous journey ahead. And what an adventure it was!
Our day started at 6am. We caught a taxi to the Northern Bus Station where we then caught a bus to Arayntha Prathet, a dodgy border town on the Thai side. Then, we got a tuk tuk to the actual border .we proceeded with our heads up, being wary and cautious of everyone (as an aside, I hate having this suspicious outlook, and normally give people I meet the benefit of the doubt, but I usually put these ideals aside when dealing with people at borders which always to me have a seedy feel) and we then headed to the Thai immigration booth to exit Thailand. Phew, success so far! We walked in a little area between one country and the next and then braced ourselves to deal with the Cambodian visa issuing people. Again, I was suspicious but also informed- when they tried to wangle money out of us for doing the visa more quickly, and trying to insist we pay in Baht and not Dollars etc I was prepared with the appropriate responses. Still all-good! 20 minutes later we get our visa and then it is onwards through the Cambodian immigration booth. Success again! Here, we saw lots of pissed-off people who were on the scam bus- they had no idea where their bus was, and what was going on, had just been left waiting until further instruction. So glad that wasnt us- I thought this several time throughout the day that ensued actually!
So we left the border and caught another bus, this time a free government bus, to the transit centre. The Transit Centre is really just a shed surrounded by dust and some concrete with some old decrepit looking buses and touts. So we get to the transit centre and were told our options to Siem Riep were either pay $10 for a government bus, 6-7 hours, or we pay $60 for a taxi- 3.5-4 hours. Luckily, there was a French couple waiting around and we got them on board to share a taxi. And we were on our way! Kind of.
The road from Poipet to Siem Riep- just a 154km stretch- is notoriously BAD. Apparently Asia Air pays the Cambodian Government to drag their heels in repairing the road. This sounds typical of many governmental dealings in this country. So this means the road is SHITE. I am talking big, huge potholes that could eat a child, dirt and mud and stones, really just the most bumpiest ride, even in a taxi. Our driver was great, swerving to miss a pothole and nearly hitting an on-coming bike/bus/car .
It was fun though, despite the bumps! We could watch Cambodian life go by as we looked out the window- bare-bummed kids swimming in waterholes, men casting nets and fishing lines, women bathing in the little estuaries, kids playing with tyres and riding their bikes on the side of the road. The housing is different here- reminds me of that which I saw in Northern Thailand- quite basic wood huts. The vegetation is also green, and with the red earth, it makes for quite a colourful scene. We stopped a couple of times- once to fuel-up, and once to help a broken down car, and it was great to spend some time with the locals, particularly the kids!
The Cambodians I have experienced so far have seemed a bit more real than the Thais I have encountered so far in this trip. Perhaps they are not so jaded by the flux of tourists coming through their country, or the country is just so much less developed than Thailand that there is more of a necessity to be kind to visitors whatever it is, Cambodian people seem very warm and super friendly.
So we were quite enjoying the ride .until we hit a water basin, which was flooded over parts of the road. At first, we had to drive through some oversized puddles. Then, we came to parts of the road that we partly submerged, but not too deeply. THEN, we came to what was like an actual river! Seriously, families of locals were using this part of the road to BATHE in, and kids were swimming and jumping into it!
In order to drive through, little kids had to walk in front of us and show us where the shallow parts were, so our Camry could drive through safely. When we made it through, I cheered! And then we would hit another river, and the same thing would happen again! Every time, I would think, this must be the end of it, and every time, the water we had to traverse would be deeper! We came to a bit of a standstill at one point- some trucks had become bogged, buses couldnt come through as there was not enough space, there were tractors pulling the bogged cars and trucks out, people were pulling and dragging bikes and motorcycles through the river, and we even saw a canoe floating past us that was carrying bikes and people through. I thought surely, we are never going to be able to drive through this!
But, our driver, and some other taxis drivers, were determined. So they squeezed through the bogged trucks and started the mission. The first taxi went through .then got stuck part way and about 10 locals had to literally lift the submerged vehicle up out of the water and onwards so it could keep driving .then the second taxi goes and the same thing happens. I could not believe we were about to attempt it! I think all of us were praying as we started the mission .and it must have helped because through some divine intervention, we made it without getting stuck in a metre deep of water! Yey to our driver! Cheers all round!
That was the worst of it over, but there were more little rivers to traverse, and then, in some sick twist of irony, we were driving along and there was so much dust that you could not see more than a metre in front!
We left Poipet at 2:30pm and arrived at Siem Riep at 8pm. I doubt the bus (if we had caught it) would have made it that night. I was so relieved that we made it without our car floating away/getting a flat tyre/breaking down than I just had to have a 50 cent beer at our guest houses restaurant! What a crazy adventure, so glad that we did it!! Would like to say I would do it all again, but think I will instead just leave it at that I wouldnt have done it any other way!
I dont really know what to say about our trip from Thailand to Cambodia, except that it was fantastic, terrible, a must-do, and a never-do-again.
We caught a taxi to the bus station, and then a bus from Bangkok to Aranyaprathet near the Thai-Cambodian border. Our driver (like any Thai involved in the transport industry I am discovering) seemed intent on killing us. At one point our bus fish tailed whilst overtaking a semi trailer using the oncoming traffic lane. And yes, there was oncoming traffic.
The upshot was I made the decision at that point that public transport in Asia is best dealt with by a combination of an ipod, closed eyes and lots of laughter.
A tuk-tuk got us to the border crossing at Poi Pet, where we got our first taste this trip of true poverty. Amputees rode past slowly on custom built rusty bicycles. Little kids begged desperately off us, and of course there were the touts there to help us with the Visa.
The officials at the border tried to make us pay more, and of course when we refused we had to wait for 30 minutes whilst our applications sat on their desk unattended.
There was no pick up trucks to take us cheaply, so we found a French couple to share a taxi to Siem Riep, and thats where the adventure started.
The journey was 150km and took us about 5 and a half hours. The road is apparently one of the worst in the world when the weather is good, but as it is monsoon season much of the road was flooded. Im still not sure If we drove or sailed most of the way. It was really surreal. So here we are, rice paddies all the way to the horizon on each side and farmers staring at us, whilst we crawl along at a slow walking pace when a CANOE casually pushes past us! It was a lot of fun though (check out the photos).
It was like this the whole way. When it wasnt flooded, the road was bumpy and dusty with practically no visibility.
The people here are amazing. We stopped to help out a car that had broken down and the kids were super inquisitive and playful. Everyone is really friendly and chatty.
Anyways, Siem Riep looks interesting. We are starting to see the French influence here, with baguettes served at breakfast and many of the guesthouses are grand old buildings.
We met an Aussie guy last night who told us where to go if we wanted to blow up a cow with a rocket launcher. We went to bed shortly after :)
Tabs, we will definitely give blood and go to the Cello recital. Thanks for the advice
Peace all
Where to begin with this amazing array of ancient and ageing temples! The complex that makes up Angkor spans many kilometers- it took us three full days to see most, but not all, of the temples. They really are very amazing and for me, seeing them is on-par with seeing sites such as the Collosseum in Rome and the Louvre in Paris.
Our first two days we got around in the back of a tuk-tuk (its strange they call them this here too, as I thought it was just in Bangkok that this term is used), with our driver Sarn taking us around; Day three we rode push-bikes in a 28km circuit!
We have uploaded heaps of photos, as these really give the best idea of what the temples are like, but these are just a very small portion of the ones I took- close to 400 pictures over the three days!!
As we explored the temples, and read about each temples history, I could just visualise the empire that existed in its heyday. An era when the king commissioned temples be built, with moats and huge structures of intricate carvings. These were more than just temples, but places of worship and daily life. Exploring the temple ruins reminded me a bit of Rome, and in fact this Khmer empire has been likened to that of the Romans. There are definitely very similar feats of construction- how did they build these towering temples in a time without cranes and tools, but merely man power? Many of the temples included drainage systems, and the walls would have been studded with jewels (long since looted or destroyed) and these are buildings that have withstood it all! Now the jungle is actually reclaiming several of the temples- my favourite ones actually- and its great to experience the jungle overtaking land which had been cleared to overtake it- I guess nature always wins out!
My favourite 6 temples in order, with a wee description:
1. Ta Prohm
This temple is just sooooo photogenic! I loved it because the jungle is re-claiming the temple structures, there are huge tree roots engulfing the bricks, there is moss and lichen covering many of the stones, and it was like walking through an enchanted forest. Magical!
2. Bayon
Bayon is quite eery, as there are 37 towers, each with a face carved into it, so that no matter which angle you look or where you are standing, theres a carved stone face looking down. The faces look like part of a jigsaw puzzle, as each stone was laid and then the carving was made. This is quite typical of Khmer architecture of the late 12th Century, and many of the reliefs in the towers throughout Angkor look like this. Very cool!
3. Angkor Wat
Seeing Angkor Wat in all its glory after entering the exterior wall and walking down the approach walkway is just breathtaking! It has some complex bas-reliefs re-telling various Hindu stories and mythology, and climbing the top of the towers is definitely one of the scariest as the steps are so high and steep.
4. Banteay Kdei
I liked this temple as it is un-restored and much of the sandstone is starting to really deteriorate, giving it a decrepit feel- really showing its age. Parts of it are also being overtaken by trees, and it was a quiet place to really reflect and take it all in.
5. Bantreay Srey
This is the temple is 38km from town, but was well worth the trip, as it looks different to the other temples in that it is small and made from pink sandstone, and has some very intricate and beautiful carvings. Very ornate and fairyland-like!
6. Preah Khan
This was a lovely temple to explore as it had many passages and it was all very photogenic! Also starting to be overtaken by the jungle, it has a quiet garden surrounding it and many beautiful carvings and columns. Also very quiet when we were there, which always makes for a nice temple experience.
We visited many, many more temples which were all amazing for different reasons, some have been restored, others are being restored, which I guess is a good thing, but is also a pity as I like the temples which are falling apart and really seem ancient (which they are!). Some of the temples were filled with people, and it was hard to find peace and quiet, especially when we tried a sunset from the hill of Phnom Bakheng where we were joined by thousands of others!
One of the best things about Angkor was how it sparked my imagination, took me back in time to a time of an elaborate life with kings and queens and to see beautiful art. Its hard to imagine that the life of Cambodians today is so different to that of their ancestors. From riches to rags for this country I only hope that the rediscovery of Angkor means riches can once again come to these hospitable and hard working people. If the multinational hotel chains that are now open everywhere in Siem Reap, and the people who stay at them for $350 a night, give back to the people and dont take out all of the money from Cambodia, then it might be possible; unfortunately I dont think its the case
For now, I urge anyone who comes here to stay at local guest houses and dine at locally owned Khmer restaurants, give blood to the hospital, donate a few dollars to the Landmine Museum and hopefully if enough people do that, then it will start to make a difference! The Temples of Angkor and the tourism that they bring are really important to Cambodias economy and its peoples future. Worth a visit for soooo many reasons!
Well I can safely say that I am thoroughly watted out. You know you have seen enough 10th century structures in one day when you just end up walking through going Yes its very ancient and beautiful.. just like the rest.
The temples of Angkor are, surprise, surprise, breathtaking. Each structure is unique in its own way, be it through intricate carvings (Bantai Srai) sheer size (Angkor Wat) or its state of entropy and re-assimilation with mother nature (Ta Prom). However as unique as each of these temples are, they share one common design element
Their doorways are too fucking low for white folk.
Seriously I have hit my head more times in the last 3 days than my entire life and am fearing permanent brain damage. Obviously I am immune to pavlovian response
ANYWAY, its been spectacular . Our driver was a cool guy called Sun, who took us around each day. We got to know him so he invited us to his sisters birthday on one night.
Simone says this sort of thing happens all the time. It was great. I was a bit nervous because I dont really know any of the Cambodian customs, but the whole family were so friendly and Sun explained it was tradition to talk to the father on your first visit. We all sat around and drank black label whiskey which was a lot of fun.. except for:
**Mals little rant: Why the hell do swearwords in foreign languages always have to be so close to common words! When we yelled out what we thought was cheers, everyone cracked up and the kids looked shocked. It turns out we had both yelled out FUCK! at the top our lungs before downing our whiskey. Personally if I was inventing a language I would make the swearwords sound similar to sprocket or pottery rather than something as commonly used as cheers ** /end rant.
There is a doctor here in Siem Riep who has opened four hospitals of western standard in Cambodia. These hospitals provide 85% of the health care to Cambodias kids and are entirely funded by private donations. The doctor does a cello recital every Saturday at which he also talks about the state of the hospitals. If you come to Siem Riep, go to his recital and also give blood or money (or both). Our blood is really valued here because its free from diseases.
They also give you a t-shirt and stickers and biscuits and stuff which was kind of cool. The parents and staff at the hospital really appreciate it too so you can come home feeling warm and fuzzy.
The beggars and shop owners here are a constant presence. From the moment you leave the front door, people want you to eat at their restaurant, buy milk for their baby child at home, ride in their tuk-tuk, or give cash so they can go to school or because they are a landmine victim. Its cool though because you know these people are often struggling to get by and need our help. My best advice is to choose your donations very carefully and give to the neediest and buy food for the kids instead of cash, as apparently there are beggar syndicates set up whereby the kids have to give the money to a pimp figure.
Oh yeah, th other day a policeman offered to sell me his badge! Only Ten dollar! If I wasnt so broke I would have bought it.
So far though Cambodia has been a trip out. Amazing people, great food, ridiculous heat and crazy traffic. We went for a bike ride on one of the days of temple exploring, and the ride was almost as fun as the sights. Riding through Cambodian traffic is really fun. You just have to forge ahead at a steady pace, and everyone swerves around you. Don`t know how it works, it just works. In fact, its safer being a pedestrian or cyclist in Cambodia than Aus because everyone is totally aware of whats happening, and the traffic moves a bit slower.
We are off to Pnom Penh tomorrow to apply for our Vietnamese visas, then maybe down to the western coast for some beach time.
Peace all
Malcolm
Cute little grubby girl: Hellooo Lady! You buy scarf! Just one dollar!
Sim: No, thats ok. I dont need one.
CLGG: Then buy two! Special price for you! Two for one dollar!
Cute Little Grubby Boy: Hellloolo sir! Buy bracelet from me! Ten for one DOLL-ar!
Mal: No, I dont need a bracelet. I have no room in my bag.
CLBB: Bracelet no heavy. Buy for your wife!
Sim: No, I dont need a bracelet either.
CLBB: Then buy postcard, cheap for you! Ten for one dollar!
Mal: No really, no thanks
CLGG: Then come to my shop. Buy cold water! You need cold drink!
Sim: Ok, when I come out of the temple, if I need a drink Ill buy it from you
CLGB: Where you come from?
Mal: Australia
CLGB: Gidday Mate! How you going cobber? How you going Sheila? (with quite authentic Aussie accent!)
CLGG: Capital is Canberra. Population is 20.2 million, you have many kangaroo and koala
We have been having this exact same conversation with child after child over the last few days as we have visited the temples of Angkor. Another temple, another conversation, with the most charming and witty little kids you can imagine. They all know how to say this in several languages- I heard kids talking to tourists from France, Korea and Japan in their languages. They know how to pull the heart strings and it is certainly at times quite difficult to not succumb to their charms. The reality of it is that if we bought from every kid who approached us, then we would have to leave for Vietnam to go start teaching in another few days, not a few weeks, as wed be completely broke! After Day 3 we had pretty much become immune to the chanting (and it is like a chant when there are five ladies standing in front of their little roadside restaurants singing Hello lady, you buy cold drink in unison) and the conversations with doe-eyed kids, I just wish I was rich enough to help all of them!
That said, there have been a couple of little street kids who have latched themselves onto me, asking for food. So I have taken them to the supermarket and they have both gone straight to cans of sterilized milk, which I have then bought for them. I am always a bit wary of giving money to beggars, but giving an actual food item they seem desperate for- I presume for a baby they are probably looking after- I think that is the best way to help.
We have had some pretty full and active days as weve explored Siem Riep. Our first two days of temple-going, we hired a tuk-tuk to take us around. We had a driver named Sarn who was completely charming and who had lots of local knowledge which he shared in combination with taking us from place to place. We went out to one of the further temples- an hours drive from the city- and it was such a great little trip. You only have to ride about 20 minutes from the town to suddenly be among rural communities who live quite poor and simple lives, as they farm- mostly rice- in fields which span forever.
From the back of the tuk-tuk, I was able to capture a glimpse of the daily lives of the local people as we whizzed past their homes. The snapshots I saw included seeing groups of little kids with skinny legs riding big adult bikes, so that they had to stand up and ride for their legs to reach the pedals. There were people cycling with huge piles of wood on their backs and in trailers they were pulling; mums sitting on the front porch of their lean-to home, holding babies or swinging them in hammocks; groups of kids were swimming in waterholes; children were playing at the front of their homes; men were fishing with nets and lines, presumably for dinner; little roadside shops selling snacks, odds and bods, and fuel which has already been measured out into old 1litre soft drink bottles for easy filling of motorbikes; people getting water from wells out the front of their home; and the illuminescent green of the rice paddies seemed to go forever.
We got another snapshot into Cambodian peoples lives later this day, when our driver invited us to his cousins 18th birthday party. We werent really given a choice- he just took us there!- and so before we knew it we were being presented to this family, who I think were quite well-off for Cambodians. Men were sitting around eating a feast of food and drinking whiskey, women and girls were sitting and talking separately and kids were playing wildly, as kids always seem to be able to do. Our driver instructed us to speak to the father, which we did. The father works in security for the royal family at the royal palace, quite a good job I imagine, and he seemed happy to speak to us to practice his English. When asked if hed lived in Siem Riep all his life, he said yes, except for when the Khmer Rouge were in force and he had to live in a concentration camp 20 km out of town. Its kind of hard to know how to respond to that. At another stage, another man at the party spoke about how corrupt the Cambodian government is, and how things needed to change for the country to get ahead. As if this wasnt all full-on enough, we also made a faux par with trying to speak some Khmer, which I think Mal will elaborate on in his entry! The kids were cute, and the family seemed to be very merry when we left. It was nice to get to experience some local hospitality!
I find it really amazing to see how far the people have come in such a short time, and how everyone seems to have an aura of peace and calm about them. If Thailand is known as Land of Smiles, then Cambodia must be the Land of Even More Smiles. Everyone here has experienced some hardship and poverty, either directly or indirectly. They have experienced hardship which puts most western worries to shame. We visited the Land Mine Museum and it was just heart breaking to read the stories of the children who have been adopted by the family who run the museum, and also the husband and wifes stories themselves. It makes me never want to complain about a single thing again.
We also went to the Kamtha Botha Hospital to hear the founder- Beat Richner- do a cello recital. In between songs he educated his audience on his hospital which is trying to break the cycle by providing free healthcare to Cambodian people. His work has seen four hospitals built in Cambodia, and has seen all Cambodians have access to western style care, even though it is a developing country. 85% of Cambodians could not afford to go to the doctor or hospital, so these hospitals are seeing that more people have a chance of surviving diseases such as Dengue Fever and TB. He asked for blood or money as a way to give support to the cause, so Mal and I are going to give blood today, which has the potential to save three kids lives.
Meanwhile, we have kept running into a South African couple we have made friends with, simply through having the same taste in choice of hang-out. We first met them at our guesthouse restaurant when a spliff was passed around and then again while enjoying a happy pizza in town the next day join the dots on that one
Maybe in the most recent past, adding ganja as a herb in cooking helped the Khmer people to dull the pain they were experiencing, whilst for me here in Cambodia it helps to deal with the kids, and the constant poverty all around us, for a bit I have found I have seen things with a nice glow at times, and I guess thats why they call it a happy pizza. Its funny that happy pizza is around corner from a place that sells awesome ice cream sundaes complete with sparkler, delicious poco stick biscuits, two scoops of divinely delicious ice cream and topped with cream and chocolate sauce! All for $2.50!
Its another hot and steamy day today, I am sitting on the balcony of guesthouse the Red Lodge, I can hear children playing in the school next door- that indiscriminate chatter of school kids sounds the same all the world around- chain saws and hammers are at work- again, the same kind of daytime sounds you hear anywhere- and there is a lady next door singing (screeching?) along to cheesy Khmer pop songs at the top of her voice- she sings badly, as I am sure I also do when singing along to the radio!
As always, having a great time. Read my next entry Temples of Angkor if you want to know more about Angkor!
Love to all
Sim xo
I dont have a lot that I want to say in this entry, more some observations I guess
We left Siem Reap by bus to go to Phnom Phen, it was an interesting ride which again took us past some rural communities- I read today that 85% of Cambodians live outside the cities in farms- and also to a few little food-stops where we would be inundated with hawkers trying to sell us their wares- pineapple lady, 2000 Riel!, ladies with bread sticks in bamboo trays, and there was one lady with something in a tray on her head that I just couldnt figure out from a distance .so I got up close and saw she was selling fried spiders! Not just any old lame spider either, but a big, hairy tarantula thing, all fried in soy and ready to eat! GROSS! See the picture!
So we are in Phnom Phen at the moment, and have spent today exploring. We had a wonderful start to our time here, with a beautiful sunset over the lake on which we are staying. We went out and had a delicious meal at one of the nearby Khmer restaurants and played pool at a games room type place we came across. We were at another place having a sheesha, and the power went out! I found it hard to believe that this could happen in the capital city, but I have heard it is a regular occurrence which must be really annoying for people running bars and restaurants! The street on which were staying is quite seedy- when walking from place to place last night we must have been asked ten times did we want to buy drugs and we also saw a guy showing of his gun to his mates- kinda scary really!
On a lighter note, something I have noticed since arriving in Cambodia, is that a lot of women wear their pyjamas out into town to go shopping in! Its quite funny and puts a whole new meaning on bedroom attire. Women did this a lot in China too, I wonder if pjs here are the equivalent to our tracky dacks and sloppy jo!
Today we went to the National Museum and saw some beautiful Khmer art (that which wasnt destroyed by regimes and war), visited some cool markets, and also went to the S-21 Museum which was just depressing and tragic really. I think it is a must-see place though, as it brings to home the realities of life for Cambodians now and in the past when the Khmer Rouge Regime was in power- it is still hard to imagine the insane slaughter of a whole race which was taking place while the rest of the world kind of let it happen. The museum contained portrait after portrait of prisoner that was kept at the site during Pol Pots reign, and also showed the horrible torture equipment used, and skulls of those who were killed. Quite horrific really.
We ended our day with a late lunch at a place called Friends which is part of an NGO that helps to train homeless and orphan children in hospitality, in order to give them a better future- this is actually one of many training schools in this city, and I recommend going as the food was delicious and again its another way of giving something back to the people whilst here on holidays.
Tomorrow were off to Shianoukville- not only the beach (which weve been missing), but also a place that does Vietnamese visas in 15 minutes (as opposed to 3-5 days elsewhere!).
I have included some photos I took today of some streetscapes of the city- enjoy!
Love to all
Sim xoxo
Well I think the last time I wrote we were in Siem Riep.
The bus from Siem Riep to Pnom Penh was air-conditioned and quite nice, which seemed a bit too good to be true. Which of course it was, as about 5 minutes in to the journey, they put on VCD Karaoke hits . VOLUME 72!!
Unfortunately it was all in Cambodian so I couldnt bless anybody with my dulcet tones.
Getting off the bus was crazy! About 15 moto drivers swarmed the bus when it pulled up. They were all trying to grab us as we hopped out. I almost had to bust out some Mal-Fu, but fortunately for them it didnt come to that.
After checking in, we went for a walk. We got offered weed 15 times in ten minutes. The moto drivers would say tuk tuk? No? How about smoke? No? No smoke? You like something else? I have
Pnom Penh is a bit more raw than Siem Riep. As we were walking along, this guy randomly pulled a gun out of his pants and started showing it to a moto driver. Far out.
The power also goes out frequently too which is pretty funny as everyone in earshot all goes awww! at once.
Oh yeah, back track a bit. Ive been Asiand (like in Ghostbusters where the guy gets slimed). In Siem Riep I asked this hairdresser for a small trim. My hair is now shorter than its been in ages. Lucky I didnt ask for a short cut or she may have decapitated me. So yeah. Short hair.
We are in Sihanoukville at the moment on the Southwest coast (fronting on to the Gulf of Thailand). I think it will be just like Haad Rin beach (Ko Pa Ngan.. full moon party place) in about 2 years. There is one beach which is entirely owned by one person and there is just one thatched beach bar after another with reclining chairs and umbrellas out the front. You can watch the sun set and drink a $1.25 cocktail and reflect on how hard life is.
On the subject of alcohol, a bottle of vodka is $1 so drinking is really really cheap.
So yeah, a few of the bars are starting to play pumping music, and some of the bar owners children do poi twirling in an effort to drum up business. Luckily this beach is owned by a Khmer who only allows other Khmer to run the bars. Its really apparent in Cambodia as to the extent of foreign ownership. I guess foreign ownership can bring in money and create jobs that wouldnt otherwise exist, but then it would be important for the foreigners to pay their local staff well and keep the money in Cambodia. The downside is that there are big plans for Sihanoukville including casinos that would basically funnel a lot of the tourist dollars back out of the country in to the hands of wealthy indo-Chinese. Additionally, the Government has sold the best beach to a 5 star resort, so now only the wealthy can enjoy it as it is now private.
Haha there is a particular model of motorbike they drive here that sounds EXACTLY like the car in Flubber!! One just went popping past.
We had breakfast this morning at a restaurant on the beach, and when we opened up the menu, a cigarette and stick of weed fell out haha. Someone had been using it to mull up. I dont recall having that happen to me in Bris.
Tab and Anna, good luck on the fundraiser party. Anybody reading this, check out Tabathas post on the message board about a fundraiser for the Kantha Bopha hospital.
Well Ill sign off for now. Peace all
We have managed to very easily spend the past six days in a little beachside town called Sihanoukville in southern Cambodia. Sihanoukville is about 6 hours south of Pnom Phen and has many beautiful beaches which look out over the Bay of Thailand. Compared with other beaches we have visited on this trip, the ones here are undeveloped, but not untouched. The main beach that locals and foreign tourists seem to like most is Occheutal Beach which is overcrowded due to many beach shacks, bars and restaurants which fill it. However, a little explore on a moto took us to some almost deserted, almost untouched beaches which I fear will be overtaken like Occheutal in no-time. At all the beaches, the sand is white, the water is crystal clear, and the vibe is relaxed. We have actually had quite a few ups and downs over the past 6 days, which I will recount now.
Ups
1. Spending an entire day at a beachside bar which has steps leading into the ocean and a huge tree with big shady branches. We just lazed in a swinging chair, read, swam, ate delicious fresh seafood and snuggled with a cute cat that shared the two-seater chair with us both all day. This cat was ridiculously cute and affectionate.
2. Fire twirling- doing it and watching it every night. Our favourite beach shack weve been frequenting for happy hour cocktails on sunset is great and we have got to know the family who runs the place. The kids are amazing fire twirlers who I love to watch and learn from.
3. Getting our Vietnam visa processed in 10 minutes at the embassy here- unbelievably quick!
4. Spending the day at the very quiet and idyll Independence Beach to enjoy our two year anniversary together! Played with kids and built a sand castle, swam, ate yummy cheese and fresh lobster and had a lovely day which is going to end with a bottle of French red wine and a seafood platter
5. We are staying at a place called Monkey Republic which has three levels in the restaurant/bar area. The third level is a loft with hammocks where we escaped from people for almost a whole day
6. Going on a boat trip to some of the islands off the coast and snorkeling. We had a seafood barbeque lunch at an island with just ten bungalows, golden sand and amazing clear and warm water. We snorkeled through a coral garden that was better than any we saw while diving- so beautiful!
7. Meeting the local Khmers who run the bars and restaurants. We had Khmer fondue last night at a new place that a young Cambodian guy has opened and who was so helpful to us today, people like this are what makes Cambodia special.
Downs
1. The biggest down of the trip so far happened on one of our highest days, unfortunately. My glasses got stolen from the beach when we went for a swim. Soooo upset about it, as I need them to see and they are worth so much money. Had to file a police report and now have to hope that my travel insurance will cover a replacement pair. Slowly getting over this incident, but put a dampener on things somewhat.
2. Moto drivers keep trying to rip us off and it gives me the shits. Every now and then we will get one who is honest, but mostly they are out to get as much money as possible from foreign tourists. We will negotiate on a price and then when we get there, they change the price and make a big issue, all for an extra dollar. They also hassle us constantly when walking down the street.
3. The kids on the beach are a nuisance. On Occheatuel beach only, there are heaps of young kids who come and talk to you while youre trying to chill out. They try and sell bracelets and strings and paintings they have done so that they can make money for school. They dont give up easily, and are charming and clever. They also thieve from people (probably took my glasses) and just annoy visitors and also the bar and shack owners. A trip to the beach requires much patience and a good sense of humour to survive the onslaught (although the longer we have stayed, the less they have hassled us)
4. Mosquitoes. Not so much them, but the fear of them! This is a Malaria and Dengue Fever area, so I constantly smell of citronella spray, my clothes smell like mosquito coil smoke. We have had restless sleeps due to Larium (the anti-malarial medication) and the high % DEET repellant sprays burn the skin Ouch!
So you can see there have been more ups than downs and I have really enjoyed my time here. I reckon that in 3 years from now, the little sleepy town will be much more- perhaps the next Had Rin at Koh Pan Ngan? Will be interesting to see how it progresses.
We are off to Kampot next, to go to the national park where there are waterfalls and to see an old deserted colonial town which sounds really interesting. Will keep you all posted!
Love and miss you
Sim xoxo
It was a kind of bitter-sweet irony in which we left Sihanoukville
we went and had our last Serendipity Beach-side breakfast at our favourite place (they do the BEST museli, yoghurt and fruit and omelettes EVER at the Nap House!) we swung by the Dolphin Beach Shack where my glasses had been stolen, to say goodbye to the lovely people there. And lo and behold, they had my glasses!!! They had been found by some kids on the beach and handed to someone at the shack who knew straight away they were mine and had been keeping them for me. Could not believe it!! We had said to some kids on the day the glasses disappeared that wed give them money if they found them
money talks in this country, where the average Cambodian earns $20 a month, so who knows
.I dont mind, am just so pleased to be able to see again, and I gave $20 reward to the guys who gave them back to me. A small price for me to get my sight and $600 glasses back without having to deal with insurance. So my sadness of the past few days dissolved and we left in quite high spirits!
We wanted to get a share taxi (these are basically souped-up Camrys which should fit 4 people but often will have more squeezed in- you pay for your seat in the car which only leaves for your destination once the driver is satisfied its full enough) to Kampot, so we took a moto to the share taxi stand and started the long wait to find more passengers to fill the car and thus depart. We waited for an hour, very patiently (I love my ipod! Just bought some new music for it actually- there is a somewhat dodgy foreigner business in Cambodia that uploads tunes to mp3s and ipods for $1.50 an album, so I have a few new albums now to listen to
they have no copyright laws here so I guess that is how they get around it....but I digress
) and the guy who decided hed be our driver just sat around waiting too
it was like a Mexican stand-off as he wanted us to pay $8 each (as opposed to $4 each) so we could go straight away, whereas we were happy to wait for more travelers so the ride would be affordable to us. Anyway these two French girls drove up in a Camry which was going to wait for two more passengers to Kampot, so we thought cool, well just go with them in their car, so they could leave and we could leave and all would be happy. In theory! It turned into this big hustle between the drivers, and in the end our driver agreed to take us for $5 each and we could leave straight away! Sweet!
It was a fairly painless 2 hour drive (not too many bumpy roads!) to get to Kampot which is south-east of Sihanoukville near
The town of
So all is good, we have until the 7th in
Well I have to write and just say what an awesome day we have had today. As you may recall, Simone lost her glasses on the beach. We talked to a few people, and heard stories about how insurance companies refuse to pay out, unless you were mugged by at least 15 people with automatic weapons, and then they will only pay you if you managed to take out at least half of them Chuck Norris style and provide their scalps as evidence.
Luckily, on our last day in Sihanoukville we checked back at the beach bar and the glasses had been found floating in the ocean.
So we said goodbye to Sihanoukville and are currently in Kampot, about two and a half hours north-east.
**Mals little travel Titbit: If you leave Sihanoukville for Kampot in a share taxi, dont talk to ANYBODY when you arrive at the markets to look for other backpackers to share with. Its $16 for a car, and when some French chicks arrived with a car and driver looking for others to split the cost, there was this mega drama because another driver had spoken to us and therefore nobody else could take us. /end titbit **
Anyways, Kampot is AWESOME. Very quaint, charming and small. There is a massive river running through here. The buildings are old, falling down and French influenced, so it has a lot of character. Im typing this up on our second story balcony looking over kids playing in the park. There is someone flying a kite on a rooftop nearby and there is some deceased kites in TV antennas and power lines nearby. Awful pop music is blaring from a shop that sells dodgy mobile phones. We just bought a bottle of vodka, three cans of soft drink and a bottle of water for $1.75. Yee-ha. Even better, the vodka is good for you!! It says that it is made from vodka with the combination of imported raw materials. After having taste you will get goods health and full of strength
We went for a walk and met a guy called Mr Tree, who spends his days
cmon, guess
Yes, under a tree. We are going out to his place for a seafood dinner in a few nights. He showed us a little notebook with written comments from other travellers in many languages. The one he showed me said Seriously this guy doesnt skin people alive and eat them which was enough to convince us that he must be safe as houses. Smart guy, his catch to get your attention is that he is learning English, so he asks you to explain a quote written in the newspaper.
Tomorrow we are going to an abandoned station that saw a lot of Vietnamese-Khmer rouge fighting. There are also some waterfalls here, a beach nearby, massive caves (one with an entire temple inside) and its fine to rent motorbikes here. And best of all, you hardly get approached by moto drivers, beggars or kids, which is a welcome relief for some peace and quiet.
Anyway all, peace and talk soon
I feel I should start this with a disclaimer as we are having a fantastic time and only want to tell you about our tour experience so you can laugh morbidly as we are now doing upon reflection. This entry is pretty wordy, and I apologise if it is boring. To save you time, Simone and my entries are basically a big bitch about the same thing, so its up to you if you want to read it! We got shafted by a tour and feel we should reciprocate by giving the tour people a bad name.
Disclaimer:
The following body in no way represents Malcolms general opinion of Khmer people and associated entities (including their dogs, chickens and yaks) as for in general they are very lovely and friendly (except for the yaks perhaps, I havent gotten to know one yet, but I am sure they are quite nice too).
The tour was organised through the Mealy Chendra guesthouse, which is recommended in the Lonely Planet. Since the tour we have discovered that the author for the Cambodia Lonely Planet is married to the guesthouse owners sister. Ill come back to that.
We signed up to do a tour of the Bokor National Park which is a massive protected forest. For $7 we got a free breakfast, a tour of an abandoned town that is up in the clouds, lunch, water, a trek, a swim in some waterfalls, a walk through a tea garden, and a boat ride home. Only four other people were booked in so we were told it would be nice and quiet.
Well, we got up as advised for our free brekkie to be served at 7:30am. The breakfast was
.
A baguette.
No jam, no butter. Just
..
A baguette.
Still, it must have required some preparation to put it on the plate because a French couple we met had to wait 40 minutes for
.
Their baguette.
Fair enough. We are in Cambodia and are very fortunate to be able to eat three square (or in this case baguette shaped) meals, so we werent fazed, but decided to pay for a more substantial breakfast considering the day ahead. After eating our muesli with fruit (which didnt come with any muesli), we were told they were having car problems and we would be leaving at 8:30am instead of 8am.
It turns out our group had fifteen people instead of four, most of whom had booked before us... Ooh, a little white lie by the tour operators about only four other people, but thats cool, they will probably have a bus or three cars or something.
As it turned out, our entire groups transport was a single utility. Five in the front, Ten in the trailer. Hey no problem, we saw a Toyota Camry carrying ten people the other day so fifteen aint so bad for a ute.
About five minutes in to our journey we pulled up to replace a flat tyre. Thats cool; this must have been the problems they were talking about. It gave us a good chance to meet our group. Tyre replaced, and were away.
The track to the abandoned town is pretty much the worst Ive ever seen (and according to a girl in our group from the UK army, probably only suitable for 4WD trucks), but hey, the other week we used a Camry as a boat so Im sure that a ute as a 4WD will be fine.
About forty-five minutes up the mountain (hmm... its taking a while to get there) we got our second flat tyre. Bummer. Everyone unloads. Good thing they brought two spare tyres! Tyre replaced, journey recommences.
Its appropriate at this time to introduce our tour guide, Nee. His first time as a tour guide apparently, he didnt really know much about, well
anything that we asked. Friendly enough though and he spoke good English, so thats fine.
So we ask Nee, How much longer to the station?
Oh, about two hours is his reply. What the fuck?! Well I guess we get to admire the forest as we drive or something.
Then Nee gives us our first little surprise.
So we only have time to do trek or waterfall, not both. No way. Debate ensues, and we agree that if we cut short the abandoned town to one and a half hours, we can still do everything.
So we get to the abandoned town. Its amazing. its at the top of the mountain and has a bloody history. There is a big French Casino, a church where the Khmer Rouge holed up for a while (complete with bullet holes). Some other cool looking buildings were there too but we didnt get to see them due to the reduced time.
On our way down, we get blowout number three (same wheel all three times). Its about this time that we realise this is probably due to the fact that the vehicle is loaded with too many people and I also had to politely suggest to the driver that perhaps another reason one tyre keeps popping is because it only has 3 lugs
maybe he could take a lug from another wheel.
Well at this stage we were out of tyres, so we had to wait for another ute to come past so we could borrow their spare.
We are starting to get a bit worried by now because the tour guides had also miscalculated the amount of water to bring and we were almost out.
We intercepted someone, got their spare tyre, and were away again.
When we finished the half hour detour to get to the waterfall track, we walked about ten metres, when Nee gave us our second little bundle of joy: The car is not so good, if we go to the waterfall now, it will be dark when we get back and if we break down again we will be in trouble. Also because it will be dark if we do waterfall, the boat will be not so fun. Okay so thats the trek scratched off, no waterfalls, and no tea garden. Oh and no water.
It was about this time that the word refund was graduated from a murmur to an open discussion. Well, the day has been a write off, but thats cool, we can probably get a refund, and still get to see the sun set on the boat.
Speaketh Nee: If you go back to town now, maybe I can do $1 refund, but if you go on the boat, no refund.
It was about this time that we went skitz.
One of the ladies on our tour has spent some time in Cambodia during the conflicts, and freaked thinking the tour guide was going to pull out a gun if we threatened to push the point, so we agreed reluctantly to leave it until we were back in town and could collectively talk to Lord Kregor the Destroyer (I dont know the bosses actual name, but our guide was so scared about us complaining to the boss that I imagine his name is something like that).
Well what a shitty day. At least we can watch the sunset on a boat.
Nee how far to the boat?
About two and a half hour
silence
Two and a half hours?
Yes
silence
Fast forward two and a half hours of all terrain driving, and you have 15 dehydrated, pissed off, bruised and battered tourists standing on the shore of a river
IN THE DARK. Oh yeah, the sun had well and truly gone down now and the boat was our only way home.
The boat trip took an hour and everyone was pretty cool by this point, as at least we were almost home.
When we got back to Kampot thought, they couldnt get the boat close enough to the edge of the creek, so we had to wade through the water to get out. The icing was looking about 50 metres upstream to see another smiling tour group using... but of course!.... THE FUCKING JETTY
We got back to the guesthouse, the boss is nowhere to be seen, so we decide to take the issue up tomorrow.
Well our discussions got us nowhere, not even a $1 refund (which would have brought the price down to $6, the price which we later discovered was advertised out the front). Reason given: car problems so not our fault
Of course we checked out, and in our discussions with subsequent guesthouse owners, we found out that the Lonely Planet writer is married to the guesthouse owners sister, which is why he has to include it in the guide. That explains why they smirked and shrugged when we said we would take this to Lonely Planet.
Apparently, the guesthouse run tour does this frequently and other scams like only driving halfway up before breaking down, but they can get away with it because they have a stranglehold on the touts, buses and points of entry here (They already know you are coming to town before you arrive). So we are sending an email to talk2us@lonelyplanet.com.au to let Lonely Planet investigate this and hopefully strike this guesthouse from their list. If you have had a shitty experience with the Mealy Chendra too, I recommend you send Lonely Planet an email. l
Well if youve gotten this far, thanks for reading my rant. It really was an interesting day and we did laugh a lot and are in a great mood again now, we just felt that a rip off of this magnitude should be pursued and the perpetrators should feel the sting!
Timo, we said gday to Angela for you. We are currently at Blissful Guesthouse.
Thanks everyone again for writing on our message board. We read and treasure every comment. Youll probably notice that GetJealous have changed their format and included the ability to add movies. If we get a chance we will try to record some footage of some of the funny crazy stuff that gets seen here.
Sorry Dylan, no amateur porn clips.
Peace
This is a much lighter and brighter entry to my last, and has restored my faith in a lot of things about Cambodia.
We had an awesome day yesterday which involved us hiring a motorbike and riding out to some rapids known as Tek Chouu, which are about 8km out of Kampot and are frequented by the locals (but not so many tourists). These fresh-water rapids were awesome and stretched for a few kilometers. Locals like to hire tubes to ride down the rapids in; Mal befriended a few local guys who were much more hard-core than me, and he went upstream with them so he could bump and roll back downstream with the really strong current. I found it difficult enough just keeping myself wedged into a crevice so the water could flow over me and not flow me away! At one stage I did get swept away and Mal had to come to my rescue, pulling me back and banging his nose on a rock as he did so. Sounds dangerous, and it probably was, but also a very good time!
A few days ago we made friends with an intelligent local man called Mr Tree, who invited us out to dinner at his house in the countryside. We took him up on the offer last night, so we met him and he rode us out to his home where his wife and three daughters live. This man was just wonderful- he reads the English newspaper, listens to the US radio and avoids paying any attention to the Cambodian government-run news which he describes as purely propaganda. He works as a farmer in the rice fields near his home in the rainy season, and does fishing in the dry season. He also likes to sit under a tree on the river in town and meet tourists so he can keep improving his English. The food his wife cooked for us was magnificent- fresh prawns in cabbage and lemongrass with plenty of rice and also some delicious watermelon. We ate on a table outside under the stars and the full moon and it was just wonderful to get to know this man and his way-of-life more. He says he has to work hard so he can send his girls to school- it costs him 10000 Riel a day ($2.50USD) to send his daughters, something which most country folk just cannot afford.
After dinner Mr Tree took us to the nearby Buddhist Temple where there was a full moon festival taking place. It was wild! Most Cambodians are Buddhist, however, the Buddhism which they practice is quite unique, in that it is also mixed in with other traditional spiritual beliefs and some superstition. The temple we went to was crowded with people from the village, all there to socialize and eat food under the moon. There was loud pop music playing, which was really quite random, as I never imagined a temple (usually so peaceful) could ever have a dance party type atmosphere! Monks were praying, people were making wishes for the future and burning incense, the local medicine doctor was collecting donations of money from people who would also be granted good luck for the year ahead, and once the full moon reached the middle of the sky (about midnight), the monks would have finished praying and some candles would be lit and balanced on a banana leaf. The leaf was suspended on a type of stand and dependant upon how the wax melted onto the leaf would decide if the rainy season next year would be a good one or not (of course everyone wants it to be a good season, as their livelihoods depend upon it!).
It was interesting and unusual, but a privilege. I dont think many people in the village temple had seen barang (foreigners) before as we certainly got many stares and curious looks.
All-in-all, a really lovely day and night and definitely has lifted our grumpy moods! Oh, and we gave Mr Tree $10 to use for his family, as we felt he more than deserved it for the effort he went to. Not once did he even suggest that we give him money, and that is what made him special and different from most people we have spoken to who seem to think we are made of money and the only reason they bother talking to us is so they can potentially get some of it.
If you ever go to Kampot in the dry season and see a man under the tree at the bridge reading the newspaper, then that is Mr Tree. Definitely give him a chance and youll be shown a lovely time.
P.S. There is also a big water festival happening in Phnom Pehn at the moment which we have purposely avoided, as it basically means thousands of people descend on the city, everything is closed, public transport doubles and triples in price, pick-pocketing is rife and its generally quite unpleasant (according to some locals here we have spoken to). The festival is basically racing dragon boats down the river (the river changes direction at this time every year!) and sounds pretty cool, but not cool enough to make the effort to go see. We are also really close to the Vietnam border here in Kampot, although it is not an easy-peasy border crossing, so we are readying ourselves now for it!
Wow! Final day in Cambodia! Can hardly believe it! At least it was a day spent well, and enjoyably.
We hired our moto again for another day, and Mal did remarkably well driving the thing that had zero suspension, which when dealing with Cambodian roads is a kind of necessary thing. I bounced around on back (and have the most sore bum today as a result) but it was the best way to see what we wanted to see.
The area around Kampot has many caves, and we went out to explore them! Getting to them required driving through some serious countryside! We took the turn-off to get to some of the best caves, and immediately entered a commune (village) where some young kids on bicycles quickly greeted us and told us they would show us the way. Just as well, as wed have never found the caves without them leading us over the bumpy, dusty, muddy roads. We were soon joined by a 19 year old guy who spoke great English and he said hed be our guide. He was awesome to have with us, as hes been playing in the caves his whole life and knew all the relevant history and stories of the places which are really quite magical.
Our first cave was Phnom Chhnork, and was definitely impressive. In fact, the entire landscape in the area is impressive, with limestone formations everywhere. Many of the caves were hideouts for Pol Pot and other Khmer Rouge members during their regime, as they are tucked away and would be very easy to hide inside and never be seen. Phnom Chhnork was luckily so well hidden by plants and trees that the Khmer Rouge never found it- lucky, because inside the main cavern is a brick temple that was built in the 7th century, and would surely have been destroyed during the regime if it had been found. The temple is completely in-tact as it has been completely protected by the cave surrounding it. Beyond this temple are a series of tunnels and passageways where bats like to hang out and where there are some very large stalactites and stalacmites as well. We needed a torch to see in many of the caverns and had to crawl through some precarious sections. The local kids were also able to show us pictures in the formations- many seemed to resemble elephants, with the way the stalactites form looking very similar to that of an elephants trunk.
The next cave we visited was in the same village- we walked into the dark passageway and saw some enormous formations, more bats and then had a bit of a mission getting out of the cave which involved an Indian Jones-type climb out using a gimungous tree root to pull ourselves out of the cave and into a clearing which Mal fittingly described as being a bit like Lost World. Then our guides (we were lead by the older kid but keenly followed by the little 10 year olds the whole morning) took us through a pathway on top of a mountain which was a bit scary as it was casually mentioned that land mines had been dropped here and that they sometime find them when they explore. I must say that even though we were following a well-worn path (as is always the rule in Cambodia), I was very carefully watching every step that I took (paranoid but with reason me thinks!). The view at top was great- we could see all the way out over the countryside, the rice fields and villages to the sea. It was quite a clear day (there has been a haze in the air the past few days) so it was worth the scary climb up through the cave to get to the top. We gave the kids some money for their efforts, as there is no way wed have know where to go to see the cool things, and I know the money will go to their families and for the older guys studies at uni.
Our next mission was a 24km drive out of town to a seaside region called Kep. Kep used to be a seaside resort, and is where King Sihanouk had his residence and palace in the hey day, but its a region that was destroyed during the war and is now just coming back to life. It is certainly no Sihanoukville, the beach here is small, the sand (if you can call it that) is grey and ugly. We had just a quick dip, admired the surrounds (hillsides with green foliage and shrouded by clouds and mist) and then dined on the local delicacy- crabs. These were AMAZING, cooked in a delicious lemony, peppery sauce and we slurped and sucked away at the crabs until they were devoured messily! They used to import golden sand to Kep back in the 70s and I am sure if they do that again, the beaches will look prettier and more and more tourists will start to go there (although I did see quite a few hotels under construction, set among more decaying and decrepit abandoned buildings).
We bumped back to Kampot after this journey and watched the sunset over the river which was quite beautiful, and then did some more research into the border crossing wed be doing the next day (not many foreigners do the crossing from Kampot and we found little to help us, so adventures are ahead I feel!).
It seemed only fitting to have a final chap Happy Hour Cambodian cocktail on the river road and then eat a delicious Khmer curry before leaving Cambodia, this amazing country of contrasts which I think will also hold a special place in my heart for what its taught me about strength of humanity.
So a new day, a new country Nam here we come!
Id like to start by saying that Cambodian pharmacies rule. The term self prescription takes on a new meaning, as the staff have no idea what penicillin is, so they just point towards the shelves and invite you to help yourself. What makes it better is that the warning documentation is all written in French so you just have to take a guess and hope that the stuff written in REALLY BIG LETTERS doesnt refer to something else youre taking and how mixing the two causes your intestinal tract to explode.
Its strange, we are in great shape compared to in Aus, as we are being very active and eating well, yet shit just happens here. Heres a list of what we are currently on:
Lariam. Anti malaria stuff. Side effects: crazy dreams, insomnia and altered thought patterns
Amoxicillin. For my small bout of tonsillitis
Cold and Flu: I Got a cold. Paracetamol, Pseudoephedrine and something else I cant pronounce
Savlon: The good shiz. Small cuts get infected really easily here and I also smashed my nose on a rock in some rapids so its my best friend. Dont worry the nose is fine. Small cut but it looks tough
Valium. OH YEAH. Available over the counter (they have It in a quick release dispenser). Great for when you cant sleep because of the Lariam. Take in moderation.
Kenalog. Mouth ulcer paint. Dunno why I got those
Phasogin (Simone). Sim has a particular gut when it comes to food, this helps it become less picky
Unfortunately they are yet to develop something for Travellers arse, caused by travelling large distances on unsealed roads in utes or vans with Michael Schumacher at the wheel. I cannot count the number of bruises we have, however all were fun to receive.
So our final days in Kampot were great. We went to some rapids where the Khmer locals like to go for picnics. These young guys werent happy until we waded in to the middle with them upstream then tore downstream doing about 30km/h swimming. Mum, think of Colleges Crossing times ten, with rocks..
We had a great dinner with Mr Tree (The guy from under the tree) at his house, who then took us to a temple where lots of people stared at us and laughed whenever we waved to them. The kids were so shy. Mr Tree would make us shake their hands and they would totally freak. There was a festival looking for Auspices of rainfall for the following year which shows that they have their own unique blend of Buddhism and Animism here.
On our last full day we hired a moto and went to some caves. These kids tagged along and became our tour guides. It was amazing. Massive Limestone formations with bats and a 7th century brick temple built inside. The coolest part was climbing a vertical cliff face using a vine as thick as our arm as a rope Tomb Raider style. Our guide took us to see a live mine, which was strangely absent, so we quickly decided to descend ASAP sticking to worn paths (We thought he may have meant a bomb crater or something.. but no.. he wanted to show us a mine)
So that brings us to Ho Chi Minh, Vietnam!!!!!
The trip was pretty cool. Yet again, despite the Asian transport industrys best efforts to end our lives, we arrived safely. Because we used an uncommon border crossing, NOBODY spoke English to whole way so there was lots of gesticulations required. Fortunately we only got charged/scammed 2000 Dong at the border which is about 12 cents so someone could stamp a thing saying we didnt look dodgy. The big scam was the moto drivers telling us the bus terminal was 60 km away in another town so we should take the $30 private taxi they have dropped us outside of. Funny how when you pick up your bags and walk off, their English improves dramatically and they recall the location of the public bus station as being very nearby and only $1.
We arrived in HCMC (The locals call it Saigon) at 9:30pm (about an 11 hour journey in total and so far it looks pretty cool). I Think we will have a great time here. The bars are playing Credence Clearwater Revival which is cool but it gave me flashbacks to my last time in Nam in 1975 (recon duty). We bumped into two of the Swedish lassies who shared the Bokor experience with us too. The street we are on has a Khao San Road feel, but less hassles and its more clean. The locals are really awesome.
Final thoughts on Cambodia: Really awesome. Great people, beautiful sights, lots of scams, poverty, happy pizzas, monks, beaches, happy hour cocktails, thieves, motos, breathtaking temples, shitty roads, great seafood and oppressive heat.
I`m going to make this brief. We just went to a Beer Hoi (Beer brewed on site and served directly to you) and paid.... 12 cents for a big jug of beer (2000 dong). I have to repeat that with added punctuation for effect. 12 cents. For a JUG. A jug of beer. Brewed fresh. Will write bigger entry soon, detailing the street vendors serving fresh live crabs, danishes, marijuana, cigarettes, flowers and croissants, the cute kids, great locals and crazy shit, but for now, too excited to speak (and going to get more beer).
A new country and city and a completely new mindset is in order for me!
As we sat down today at the bia hoi across from where were staying in the Pham Ngu Lao area of the city, it gave me a buzz! Not just because I was sitting down after a long, hot, sweaty day of walking the streets, and exploring the reunification palace, and from attempting to take in just a portion of this remarkable city, but because there is a certain frenetic energy about this place that I just love about big populated cities.
So there we were, sitting on these little plastic chairs on the footpath, crammed in among a heap of locals all united in our thirst for a refreshing ale after the day just gone. The beer is delicious and ridiculously cheap (12 cents for 1.5 litres) served in a vessel which is poured from a huge vat- possibly the biggest keg I have ever seen!
The simplicity of it all is the beauty of it. Who needs decorative fittings and fancy décor of a bar when you can have the whole street as your surrounds? The atmosphere in the late afternoon is particularly chaotic as people finish school and work and head home on their bicycles and motorbikes, seemingly all at once. What a better way to get a feel for the city and its people than actually being in it? Life here seems to happen on the streets- families with small babies come out to show off their super-cute child, kids run around playing in the alleys just being kids, sellers come past trying to sell sunglasses, lighters, gum, cigarettes and trays of just about anything you would need from scissors to shuttlecocks to cards, vendors ride past with their carts selling everything from fresh bakery items to dried squid to giant inflatable plastic animals, there are street-side food stalls making up fresh baguettes filled with various deli delights or pho (the delicious noodle soup famous in Vietnam) or fresh crab chowder which bubbles in a pot. The traffic is like nothing else- everyone gets around on motorbikes and scooters and they zip here and there, weaving around one another deftly and ably, with no actual road rules evident except to be aware and cautious of one another and everything else around. Its a hive of activity which seems to never stop- from the moment you wake up til you retreat to your room at night, the action keeps happening. My kind of city to be sure!
Oh, and I am a millionaire here! My $120 converts to millions of Vietnamese Dong!
Well since everybody here looks so damn healthy, Ive decided do go on a health kick and get totally ripped. But what type of gym equipment is portable enough for a traveller to use? Behold.
I think the results speak for themselves
Hi everyone! Well, Saigon has captured us over the past few days- we have ended up staying here for 6 nights, which is a few more than we had originally planned! We both love this city, and my only fear now is that we may prefer this city to Hanoi which is where we will be staying to teach!
We spent our first two days here walking around and taking in the sites and the streets and the people, eating delicious food and drinking lots of beer! The street food here is quite amazing- fresh baguettes with all sorts of fillings which cost 25 cents, rice paper rolls with yummy dipping sauce of soy and sweet chilly and fish sauce I introduced Mal to his new favourite food (it is going to beat Pad Thai I think!)- Bao, which are pork-filled steamed buns (I used to eat the vegetarian version heaps in China, so knew about their deliciousness!) then there are the fresh fruit juices which cost 25 cents, and when you sit down in a little alley to drink it, they usually serve it with cold or hot green or jasmine tea (which comes complementary), these juices are so refreshing and tasty (never mind the no ice rule for traveling ).
One street dish I know I WONT be trying, is fried flies. I kid you not. See the photo for evidence! This picture was taken today from the Cholon District, which is basically China Town here. There are loads of Chinese temples and pagodas in this area, as well as streets lined with herbalists selling all kinds of strange looking dried herbs and mushrooms, the aroma is so pungent and distinctly recognizable at the same time. Wish it wasnt so hard to describe smells!
Yesterday we went on a one day tour out to the Mekong Delta. It was a great day despite getting rained on in a torrential downpour while taking a scenic bike ride through a Delta villages canals and gardens, and also despite both of us injuring ourselves in various silly ways (my finger is badly bruised and cut from where it got jammed between two bikes, and Mal has a bruise on his nose which looks like a bindi from where he hit a door frame that was too low for his 63 height- poor thing).
We had a boat cruise down the mighty Mekong (I have now seen this river in three out of the seven countries it runs through) to see the floating market where locals sell their wares wholesale- everything from potatoes to corn to pumpkins to coconuts and bananas and fish get sold here, by people who live their whole lives on the small house boats they sell from, or in small bamboo shacks built along the banks of the river. A very different lifestyle to that of the Vietnamese in the cities!
There are small villages which also exist along the Mekong, and these villages have started up small cottage industries in making coconut candy (oh my god, this stuff is so sickly sweet- it is sticky and gooey like caramel fudge!) and also rice crispy candy. It was all quite touristic- the locals show heaps of tourists visiting on various tours how they actually make it, and in return they encourage you to buy some of it (which of course we had to do, because it is just soooo yummy!). We could feel our teeth rotting already just from all the free samples! It was interesting to see the products being made, despite the very touristy element to it.
We had lunch in one of the villages- it was really delicious! The Elephant Ear fish is famous in this region, so of course thats what we got to sample it was presented beautifully and we would take pieces of it and add it to a rice paper roll with noodles and fresh basil and coriander, which we rolled ourselves! There was also soup and some other little vegetable and meat dishes and was completely satisfying!
We got to experience the renown hospitality of the local people when we went for a bike ride and it bucketed down on us partway through. So we had to stop and these old ladies in the house where we stopped invited us all in and made is sit down while we waited out the five minute rain shower- they were just so cute and couldnt get over Mals height which was double theirs! When we got back on the bikes, we had to ride through mud, which was made even more difficult by the narrow roads we were riding on. We were winding through the canals and riding over little bridges, it was quaint and then a series of events happened where Mals bike got a flat tyre (the bike was already very dodgy with pedals that wouldnt go properly), my brakes snapped and then I jammed my finger between our two bikes! Plus we were saturated from being completely drenched by the rain! It was all very funny though! There were 6 other people on our tour who were also high spirited about the whole experience despite the disastrous element which made it nice.
We went to another little town on the way home and it rained on us AGAIN, so we quickly scuttled through the fruit, veg and seafood market and found solice in some amazing, hot Vietnamese coffee at a little restaurant on the river. Vietnamese coffee is so strong, and is always drunk with sweetened condensed milk either hot or cold, and it is the BEST pick-me-up!
It was a long, bumpy bus ride back to Saigon, and wouldnt you know it, the moment we arrived in the city and had to get off the bus- it rained again!! The only thing we could do was drink beer at this stage! So we went to the Bia Hoi with another of the tour members Brittany, and drank a lot of beer! Mal made friends with a local cyclo driver and Brittany and I made friends with an adorable, flirtatious local girl who sells flowers to people at restaurants and bars all night (so sad- she is too young to be stuck doing that work).
The day before yesterday (I am at the stage of traveling now where I have no idea what day of the week it is!) we also visited the Cu Chi Tunnels, another quite touristic place to go and see restored versions of the tunnels where the VC guerrillas lived in and fought in during the war. Again, even though it was touristy and all a bit contrived in the way it was presented, it was interesting to get an idea of what it would have been like for soldiers fighting in the jungle at the time of the war. This was made all the more realistic by the sounds of real gun shots in the background- they have a shooting range at the site!
We also got to crawl through the tunnels (reconstructed for big-bodied Westerners!) which gave a very good feeling of what the VCs experienced- the tunnels were long and dark and constrictively small, I had no idea of how far I had gone or what level of the tunnel I was in, it was really quite scary and I was only in there for ten minutes! Mal got sick on this afternoon- a bout of the flu, although you would have thought he was DYING- so I was playing nurse to make him feel better. It was amazing what a rapid recovery he made after all the candy the next day!
Tomorrow we are off to the beach again! Were going to Mui Ne and then onto Dalat after that I dont want the holiday to end! However, I am looking forward to settling in Hanoi for a while, getting the photography charity project off the ground, and also getting to eat more of this amazing food, meet more of the amazing people and learn a bit of the language (the language barrier is always the most frustrating thing for me when traveling!).
Love to you all
Sim xoxox
So here we are in Mui Ne, on the coast of Vietnam about 5 hours drive from Saigon. This place is the Kite Surfing capital of Asia (and according to some, the World) due to its very long beach which is protected by Sand Dunes and thus creating a wonderful surf swell and current when the typhoons in the Philipines hit at this time of year.
The beach here is quite beautiful, and it is nice to experience waves in the ocean after 2 months of being on still, calm waters. However, I keep forgetting which country I am in, I think due to the fact that all the hotels here are of very posh 5 star variety, there are foreigners everywhere, and the fact all the bars play western music such as that in the Platoon Soundtrack, making me feel like I am more at home than anywhere so far! We are staying in the cheapest beach-side bungalows we could find, a place called Ngoc Bich, which is friendly and our bungalow is about 10 metres from the beach for $8 (as compared to $30 minimum with all neighbouring places!).
We have just been relaxing and enjoying the peace and quiet and the beach itself which is not a dull place with all the wind water sports taking place. Be sure to see our first movie in this blog (I cannot say that it is an amazing production, but it was fun to add to our site!).
I love Vietnam, and the people, the food, the vibe. It is definitely different to Thailand and Cambodia, which I guess it what makes it a unique place to visit!
Why do I like the people?
- They are super friendly, in a genuine way, and very open to our culture and the differences between ours and theirs
- They take you seriously, and have an astute mind for business
- They are ambitious and work very hard
- They are self-sufficient and very reliable
- They are funny! The Vietnamese understand sarcasm better than any other Asian culture I have visited!
Why do I like the food?
- It is just soooo tasty!
- It is fresh and also spicy!
- It has nice spices like coriander and basil in abundance
- Its CHEAP! Dinner of fresh fish and stir fry veggies with two beers each cost just $3!! Crazy!
What about the vibe?
- There are always extra touches, like wet towels or extra sauce or free drinks or free rice, and the staff will go the extra mile at a hotel or restaurant to help you and assist you
- The hawkers and kids on the streets are laid-back and dont hassle as much as is the case in Thailand and Cambodia
- Being treated like I am a human being and not a rich tourist- if it is a façade, it is a good one, and being able to have playful banter with the locals is simply refreshing!
Cant think of anything bad that has happened recently, having a great time still, and still looking forward to Hanoi and settling in a week or so!
I dunno, the good times continue to roll in this country. The locals we have met so far are really easy to chat to and seem really open. The street vendors accept your no thankyou with a smile and continue on their happy way. It seem so easy to build a natural rapport.
Other than that, well shit... I can probably only say what every other traveller who has been through this country has said, being crazy food, great people and awesome scenery. Inexplicable beauty in many forms here.
We went on a Mekong delta tour and tasted coconut candy, went on a bike ride through the villages, had a great lunch and explored a stinky market full of a variety of dead animals. It would be possible to write so much on each of those things (The way this candy is made, the fact that each bike we rode on had some critical flaw that made the person riding it look like they were very special, eating a fish that is bred in one of the small dams every local has in their backyard, and the variety of smells and sights in the markets) but I guess its all so different that to comment on everything would produce a post of Machiavellian proportions. Suffice to say that its a series of wow moments.
Today we are in Mui Ne, northeast of Saigon.
Shit Saigon Locals call it Saigon, Government call it Ho Chi Minh. Pham Ngu Lao district where we stayed is about cheap cheap food and accommodation. Sit down at a Bia Hoi (onsite brewed beer basically for free) and talk to one of the cyclo riders and hear their story on how they were a doctor or student before the war, then were stripped of citizenship status and are now part of a dying breed of people who can now only ride bikes for a living. Helps you to understand why they rip you off so often.
Anyway, departing from Saigon with too few words to do it justice, we are in Mui Ne. Nice surf, sandy beaches, overpriced, quiet despite the many tourists due to the length of beach, great staff and laid back. Kite surfers race across a wave as a local fisherman paddles furiously to get over the same wave in a one person straw boat shaped like a humungous noodle bowl. Its a compelling image in that compelling way that requires no further compelling on my part to explain the compellingness of it..)
The esplanade here somehow has an Australian feel in my opinion. Dunno why, nothing really similar, just does. Chefs and well dressed waiters stand out the front with an assortment of daily fresh fish and seafood, ready to be grilled for your eating pleasure, cheap cheap of course. Lots of classy resorts built, but not many people.. yet. Somehow I suspect this is the calm that precludes the storm, or maybe we are the beginning of the storm. I dunno.
Hmm, what else, we are stealing free wireless internet off one of the expensive places next door which is immensely satisfying.
Oh yeah, explanation for blog title. We went to a restaurant last night where we got a whole fish and condiments and fillings and made our own rice paper rolls. Our extraordinarily flamboyant waiter though wouldnt let me eat mine until it was perfectly made. Apparently stacking heaps of stuff in to the one roll is a faux-pas, as well as using both rice and noodles in the same rice paper roll.. I should have known. It came to the point where we had to frantically make our rolls while he was serving someone else and scoff them down lest he return and perform a full dissective autopsy on our meal, disassembling then remaking the rolls from scratch.
Okay all, peace and talk soon
Before we left the coastal town of Mui Ne, we visited a little fishing village and the sand dunes which are a unique feature of the landscape in the area.
The sand dunes were awesome! We went sand sledging, which was fun but not really all that fast (see the movie of Mals slide to see what I mean!) and we walked through the multi-layered dunes which went for kilometers. There were some golden white dunes and also orange coloured dunes, equally as beautiful for the natural perfection in the patterns in the sand formed from the wind. We were at the orange dunes at sunset which was pretty special (nothing to do with my addiction to sunsets okay, well, maybe a little bit ) as the setting sun brought out the colour in the endless sand.
I think the pictures describe the scene better than me, so take a look and see what I am talking about!
After we left Mui Ne, we had a day-long bus trip to a town in the central highlands of Vietnam, called Dalat. Dalat is a very temperate place as it is at a very high altitude- the temperature at night has been going down to 10 degrees and it isnt hotter than 25 in the daytime. It is like this all year round, and the climate has dictated the way-of-life here in many ways. The whole region has volcanic-rich soil, which means there are many farmers here, growing everything from organic fruit and veggies such as avocado, lettuce and artichoke renown all over Vietnam, flowers which are exported all over the world, they make wines from strawberries and mulberries, there is honey and jams, as well as coffee beans which help make Vietnam the third biggest coffee producer in the world (and damn, it tastes good!! What an amazing eye-opener in the morning!)!
The town is very beautiful, set among mountains, and due to its French colonial history, it has a distinctly European feel. Maybe it is the cold weather, the green mountains which surround the town and the houses built on hillsides, but the town also reminds me a bit of Wellington in NZ! There are many lakes and waterfalls and walks to do, and this has made the town quite well-known among the Vietnamese as a romantic place to visit. Honeymooners from all over Vietnam come here, and in the wedding season which starts now and goes until Tet (Vietnam New Year in February), there are thousands of weddings which take place in Dalat due to its romantic atmosphere.
This has created quite a kitsch element to everything which is kind of funny but also really tacky. At the waterfalls there will be people dressed in bear costumes and dressed as cowboys to go and stand next to and have your photo taken with (for a price) there are paddle swans to hire and ride out on the lake in the centre of town there are tandem bicycles for lovers to ride on together around the town there are amusement parks everywhere, the most well-known being given the name the Valley of Love which is also referred to as the Valley of Shops due to the number of tacky souvenir shops that exist there there is even a house called the Crazy House which was designed by a local architect influenced by Gaudi, and it is really quite kooky!
Not wanting to go on another organized bus tour to see the sites, we decided to hire a motorbike for our first full day here and we had plans to climb a mountain 20km from town which supposedly has stunning views at the top. So off we drove, all keen and enthusiastic, snacks ready for a picnic along the way, and maps which turned out to be dodgy in our hand. It ended up taking us two hours to get out of the town- we kept getting different directions from everyone and the maps didnt match reality, and once we did leave town and drove on our merry way to where we thought we were heading we soon discovered we were nowhere on our maps and somehow ended up at the local water treatment plant! It was also a kind of botanical garden with bonsai and flower gardens and a restaurant over the lake which irrigates the water for treatment it was quite bad, but we made the most of it by getting a cold beer before being driven out by the terrible music being played. We still had no idea where we actually were, so gave up trying to figure it out and just drove, which was fun! So much freedom on the bike, and we saw some stunning scenery over valleys and mountain ranges. In the end it didnt matter that we didnt get to our destination or to trek up the mountain or see waterfalls, as we had a good time just journeying!
It got a bit hectic when we had to drive back through town at peak hour- we will upload a movie of this little expedition at some stage when we have a good internet connection- it has to be seen to be truly understood.
Today was also an awesome day going out on motorbikes again, but this time we were passengers and two lovely local men part of a group called Easy Riders took us out touring the countryside. The benefit of going with this group is that they provide individualized tours at your own pace, and take people to places that the tour buses dont. So today we got to visit a local minority village which wasnt all tackified (is that a word) and touristic- it was the real deal and while interesting it was also sad to see the poverty and conditions the people live in. We also got to see a coffee plantation, and also saw some of the regular site-seeing places including a waterfall which involved riding down a rail toboggan to get to! I found the ride terrifying, as it didnt feel safe at all, whilst all Mal wanted to do was hoon to the bottom (I think I was just getting scary flashbacks from the disastrous luging episode in NZ!) it was fine though and the waterfall was pretty cool! Of course there was a tacky element for the honeymooners- dressing up in minority people costume to have a photo with the waterfall in the background- GROAN!
Our awesome day ended with a massage like no other! It was all quite fateful, as I had said in the morning I would like a massage for my sore back, and then after the ride today I thought again it would be great to get one but wasnt sure about the dodgy-ness or not of the ones offering them near out hotel. We popped into a little travelers café for a café sua and saw a sign posted for massages at the local hospital for $6 which included a hydrobath, steam bath and sauna before having a one hour traditional massage. The energetic lady who runs the hotel even offered to drive us there if we wanted to go ..so we figured it was meant to be! It was like a massage experience due to all the little extras, and the tiny Vietnamese woman who walked down my back and pummeled and prodded me had the biggest, strongest arm muscles I have every seen! She could move the whole massage table with me on it with the greatest of ease. It was fun and relaxing and great value- highly recommended!
Afterwards we had a few beers back at the café with one of the Easy Riders who had taken us out today. These men are awesome! They have grown up in Dalat and are a fount of knowledge, very passionate about showing people the real Vietnam, and we had some really frank discussions about many parts of the Vietnamese culture, from marriage, relationships, work-life and way-of-life. Sooooo interesting! It is possible to take trips with these guys from Dalat all the way to Hanoi, through the Ho Chi Mihn Trail and staying at local villages along the way we would love to do this but it is expensive at $50 a day each, so we just cant justify it at the moment. However, we will hopefully bump into our friend again in Nha Trang as he is driving some tourists up there and will still be there when we are there. Talking to locals in such a frank and open way is the most amazing way to get to know the locals and the customs, traditions and language.
On that note, we bought some exercise books and pens today for the Easy Riders to give to the village we visited today. Whilst at the stationery shop I bought some kids books that have the Vietnamese ABCs and Vocabulary, so I am really going to get stuck into learning the language. We are already doing so well with it, know a handful of phrases, the numbers, and a bunch of words, but I know that the sooner I can have a conversation, the sooner I will get to know the everyday people, which is the hardest hurdle to overcome when traveling and wanting to immerse.
Anyway, now I am rambling, so will say Tam Biet (Goodbye!) for now thanks for reading if you made it this far!
Love to all
Sim xoxo
I know, strange title for a blog entry, but to try and paraphrase how cool I think Vietnam is in to the 10 or so words allowed in a blog heading is impossible.
Well I could say:
Mal Says: Vietnam. Its really cool.
Gets the general gist across , but fails to deliver really.
We are in Dalat at the moment. Elevation 1450m. Its as hilly as a place that is really really hilly (like Wellington hilly) and also quite chilly. Theres lots of tacky stuff here too which I think Simone is writing about. So to sum up, Dalat is hilly, chilly and silly. The scenery is breathtaking. We rented a scooter and just drove for a day. Our destination was the mighty Liang Bian Mountain range, our goal: Park at the minority hill tribe village and go on an intense day trek to scale the mighty behemoth. As it turned out, we got lost and ended up at the Dalat Water Treatment Facility. It was cool in that water treatment facility kind of way, but yeah, no hiking just.. the Dalat Water Treatment Facility
Day two in Dalat though has been a trip-out. We went on a tour with the Easy Riders who are a bunch of locals with big motorbikes. Holy crap it was so good to get away from the big tour groups. These guys were awesome. Both our drivers had been soldiers in the war and were as funny as hell and have this amazing perspective on things.
Amongst other things, we went to farms, temples and a minority village. The minority village was intense. Due to such a small population of people and no knowledge of the laws of genetics, there is lots of inbreeding and there were a few people with deformities. Families of five live in houses about 6 square metres in size. The government give the villagers one male and one female cow so they can breed them and be self sufficient, but due to the lack of education, they just eat the animals then are back to square one.
I guess Im mentioning this because its simply a contrast to other elements of Vietnam, and hopefully helps to describe the entire experience. The villagers are happy and enjoy their lives.
We ate lunch at a roadside café, tried rice wine (woohoo), visited a coffee plantation, went to a spectacular waterfall that had a very unsafe luge type ride which was lots of fun, and generally saw some cool stuff.
There is a café here where the lady is FUCKING CRAZY. She has a ridiculous amount of energy and is soo funny. She shunted us off to a hospital where they do hydro baths, saunas and massages. Afterwards we sat down and had beers with one of the easyriders, who hang out at this ladys café as it is a good fishing spot for expats. I havent laughed so hard in ages. This guy especially, but also the Vietnamese we have met in general, seem to have an openness about them which lets you get in to interesting conversations very easily.
In short (is this entry short? I dunno), so far Vietnam has been SENSORY OVERLOAD. The scenery is unlike anything else. Deserts next to lakes next to forest next to surf next to rocky outcrops upon which may sit an ancient Cham temple. Hills, farms, pointed hats, open minded friendly people with great minds and fantastic humour, crazy traffic. Fresh seafood, practically free beer, roadside vendors with pork dumplings and fresh baguettes with all the fillings, markets with designer clothes for less than a tenth of the price, heat, cold, beeping horns and most importantly, a HUGE amount of smiles.
**Update: Now in Nha Trang for some diving. Haha the locals here have cottoned on that foreigners drink a lot, so we just had some cocktail buckets ($1.25). However they havent got glasses big enough for bucket proportions so they serve it to you in a tuppaware container. God what they must think!!**
For those of you who want to know if Nha Trang was any good, in short, yes, we had a wicked time. Okay that was the abridged version. Heres the verbose version:
Nha Trang is halfway up the coast of Vietnam. Its the junction point where most people stop regardless of whether they are going Hanoi to Saigon or Vice Versa. The beach is pretty nice, (nothing on Australia though!) and theres enough to keep you occupied for a few days.
We spent a day diving which was wicked. I recommend Rainbow divers. If you have your open water or advanced open water you get your own dive master per couple which was good. And most importantly they served croissants on the boat. Croissants.
Spent a day chilling on the beach and ran in to Sophie and Jamie, who we are now convinced are stalking us. They probably think we are stalking them too. We met them on the disastrous Bokor trip in Cambodia, saw them in Saigon, now Nha Trang and were hooking up again in Hoi An, Hue and Hanoi, so they are now our official drinking buddies and are champions to boot.
Went on the most cheesy snorkelling trip which was different to the one we thought we were booking, but it turned out okay as they got us all plastered. Despite being a snorkelling trip, there was a distinct lack of... well snorkels . There was heaps of Vietnamese tourists on board so we were largely a centre for their entertainment (the guide would say something in Vietnamese and they would look at us and laugh). We got our own back, when the guide asked the couples to kiss, the locals gave each other a little embarrassed peck (not customary to be affectionate here), but we pashed on for about a minute, which Im pretty sure freaked them out.
The highlight was the floating bar which was a small flotilla paced in the water, in which the guide would paddle around furiously with millions of bottles of some weird vodka/wine concoction. You werent allowed to drink unless you jumped in to the water in your own tube and drank from there.
Oh yeah, reason for blog title: There was construction work everywhere here, which woke us every morning at 7am, which was cool cause we had heaps to do, but at least it gives me a reason to give a blog title that rhymes. Oh you were thinking I had something to say about the sex industry? You sick puppies.
We met heaps of local and foreign people here who were cool. Two awesome teachers Ryan and Jenny (we did some volunteer teaching at a school for street kids... I think Sim will write about that), another cool English couple (Gday Lee and Mark), hello Belinda from Melbourne, if you are reading this hello to Trang, Tsao and Anh, and finally this crazy Yankee who ran a bar that had happy hour all the time and played any artist you cared to mention on his acoustic guitar.
This one guy really blew me away. His name was Yosi and he was from Israel. Totally cool guy, interesting enough in that he was travelling by himself (most Israelis travel in large groups). He is 23 (two years younger than me) and he simply told me his story, which is probably very similar to the stories of any other Israeli you would meet. After school, he was made to join the army and fight in the Gaza strip, for a cause he does not understand or feel compelled towards. He had several good friends that got killed fighting. He had a stutter that would only come out when he talked about the fighting, and there was something in his eyes that made me feel as though there is a lot to life that I dont understand and have not and will never experience. Also he described to me that Israelis always travel together and stay to themselves because they have experienced the same horrors back at home and need to stay tight. Despite all this, they are looking forward and trying to progress their country in the modern age. He was so passionate talking about the beauty and culture of Israel which served as a reminder that the ongoing conflict is only one component of the nation and does not define the entire country, nor should we ever consider a country simply in the terms and events that are reported to us by the media.
Anyway, we are in Hoi An at the moment which apparently is beautiful. Only just arrived, but we have heard really good things from everyone. Sophie and Jamie have gone on an advance recon for a Bia Hoi, so hopefully cheap drinks tonight.
Okay, signing off. Hello to everyone.
We have just arrived in Hoi An, after a 12 hour journey on the overnight bus from Nha Trang. I had such a wonderful time in Nha Trang, it was actually quite sad to leave! In a matter of just 5 days there, Mal and I did and saw heaps, and made some wonderful new friends along the way too. We be-friended both other travelers and local staff at the cafes, bars and restaurants we frequented, and by the end of 5 days, it was difficult to walk down the street and not bump into people we had met, or to stop and have a chat to one of our new-found friends whilst at work. It was like we were part of the most friendly neighbourhood community, I felt very popular getting so many waves and smiles every time I walked out of the hotel!
Such a friendly atmosphere, combined with excellent warm, sunny weather and some fun day trips made for a great time. The only dampener was our hotel which was right next to a construction site that started hammering and banging and sawing outside our rooms window at 6am. The window wasnt even real- it had glass but opened out into a brick wall- the wall being built by the workers making all the racket! We could have moved hotels, but had so many early starts anyway we just didnt see the point.
Our first night in town we met up for drinks with Sophie and Jamie, a couple from the Uk who we met back in Cambodia after sharing the terrible Bokor Experience together. We have kept meeting up with these two all through Vietnam as well- great drinking buddies! Our next day I was extremely hungover and could only manage the beach and not much else- what a hard life sitting on a deck chair on the golden sand, wonderful warm water lapping at the shore, waiters available to bring whatever whim you might have to you, ladies selling fruit and various seafood meals in their impromptu kitchens on the beach .so relaxing and very necessary recuperation from the night before for me. When will I learn that drinking copious amounts of cheap cocktails and buckets of booze and then drinking bia hoi beer and eating not much dinner is not good for me???
We had dinner with Soph and Jamie and a bunch of other people they had met that day- delicious seafood from a quite posh restaurant .posh for us as we normally eat street food or go to cheap places .that said, we had a whole fish wrapped in banana leaf with noodles and delicious sauces and veggies and wines and it all came to less that AU$10 could NEVER get a meal like that in Australia at that price!
We went diving the next day which was amazing! We were both so excited to get diving again, and get our dive log books into double figures! The diving was EXCELLENT- great visibility, and we saw some beautiful coral gardens and some interesting underwater creatures, my favourites being a 2 metre long grouper fish, then swimming through a cave filled with fish of various colours, and a wicked but eery looking octopus. The dive company Rainbow Divers were extremely professional and made our fun dive so easy and fun- they prepared all our gear for us, and there was yummy food on-board, plus we had our own dive master for the two of us- great service for $40!
We ended up going out again this night with some of the people we had met the night before we did some bar hopping all the bars compete for customers by handing out flyers advertising various ridiculous drink specials (The Qld Govt would have fits if they knew about Happy Hours that last all night, offering buckets of alcohol for $1, plus free cocktail giveaways with every drink purchase!). All the bars also have free pool, and the staff that work at them are just so friendly we became regulars at a few and made some lovely Vietnamese friends by regularly frequenting the bars.
We also went on an island hopping boat cruise which was possibly the cheesiest tour we have done so far, but which was really quite fun! We got to go snorkeling (minus snorkels mind you- they only provided us with masks!) but the reef was spectacular and abundant in sea life and corals. The guy running the tour was a bit mad and tried to get everyone singing karaoke and other random things we didnt really understand- the Vietnamese tourists seem to get the jokes, but we had no idea, but couldnt help thinking things were at our expense! They provided a yummy seafood lunch, and then a quite comical floating bar! The tour leader went out in a buoy with bottles of terrible tasting mulberry wine, which we had to fetch by floating in tubes in the ocean. So random but quite funny- especially as there were about 8 other boats doing the same tour and the same thing all happening at the same time! After lunch we went to another beautiful beach with crystal clear waters, and then we were herded into an aqurium which was just sad, as the fish werent integrated, instead there was a tank for each animal, there was no plant life for them to swim in, and most of the fish looked quite sad L Asian cultures seem to have a different idea about keeping animals in captivity than we do in the west. But all in all, a good day!
We went out again this night with our new friends Belinda from Melbourne and some of her friends from the UK Mark and Lee, all awesome people who I want to stay in touch with! We ended up staying at the one bar all night (Why? Well, we could get double shot vodkas for less than $1, and the bar was called Why Not?) On the drunken walk home we were lured into another bar wed been to the night before that has happy hour all the time, and food available until closing time .it has a quite quirky American man running it, who just loves to get out his guitar and play funny tunes he has written- a real character of a man.
Our final day in Nha Trang we did some volunteer English teaching! A remarkable, energetic Vietnamese lady known as Crazy Kim opened up a school a few years ago to provide free schooling to street kids. Her idea was to get kids off the streets and to spread the word and put an end to child workers and the paedophillia problem in SE Asia. Her slogan is Keep Your Hands Off Our Kids, and she started selling t-shirts and stickers and now runs a bar known as Crazy Kims with proceeds from drink sales going to the charity which helps the kids. The school needs volunteer teachers to run classes, so Mal and I decided to participate. I am so glad we did this, as there are currently two new teachers Ryan and Jenny from Canada and Sweden who have just started a volunteering stint for about 6 months- neither of them has had any teacher training, so I was able to give them some good ideas in class, and afterwards gave them a crash course in teaching English to get them on-track and hopefully help them in their endeavours. So whilst I could only be there for a day to help out, I hope the knowledge I gave them will help the students into future days. The school has no resources whatsoever, and the kids are a bit rowdy, so I felt sorry for these two people coming in to teach without any experience whatsoever! We gave them a copy of the TTTTT which we brought with us from Australia too, so that should help them out a bit!
Finally, our last indulgence in Nha Trang before our horrendous 12 hour journey to Hoi An on the bus was a trip to the mineral mud bath and thermal spa in a town nearby! What a relaxing time we had! First we soaked in warm mud, then sunned ourselves while it dried, then we washed that off and soaked in a mineral spa, then sat under a mineral waterfall and swam in a mineral pool! Two hours of complete indulgence and our skin and hair felt great afterwards! All for abut $6 each!!
We were extremely lucky with the bus trip- we had heard all sorts of horror stories about people being crammed on crowded buses for the journey, so we prepared our selves with valium and snacks, but in the end our bus was practically empty and we had a whole seat to ourselves to sprawl out on the valium helped us to sleep and we got here a few hours ago feeling not too bad at all! What luck!
Staying in the nicest hotel ever- it is $8 and has aircon, hot water, a balcony with a view of the city, friendly staff and comfy bed, so I think we will really enjoy our next few days here before we head up to Hanoi at last!
No really. I do.
Hoi An is a beautiful town with a heavy French influence. The food here is some of the best in Vietnam, but yeah the shopping whoa. Suffice to say we are now making a speedy journey to Hanoi (with one extra massive suitcase) to start work (hopefully shortly).
We each got so much shit, some great quality, some not so great, but always notably cheap cheap and it all looks the shit. I would love to be able to report more on this place, but honestly, its just been a blur of fittings and tape measures. Hopefully Simone has more to report... she went on a tour today whilst I do uni work. For some reason though I am discovering there is an inversely proportional relationship between my productivity and the amount of beers I have consumed at the internet bar.
Well thats about it from me. Seriously this place is beautiful and very photogenic, and as always having a mind blowing time!
Peace all
Hoi An is the most gorgeous, charming little town which has definitely captured me! The town is old- and in fact many parts of it are protected by UNESCO as World Heritage.
There are old buildings, many of which are lived in as they have been by the same families for generations; others have been converted into shops selling tailor-made clothes, souvenirs, amazing art-works or other handicrafts. There is a river which runs through the town, and there is a quaint strip of restaurants which line the sides of the river. By night, the town is lit by colourful lanterns, and the Chinese influence in this area becomes quite clear. It is a fascinating place that certainly has a little bit of everything for everyone some more than others.
In my case, it is the shopping and the food and the beach. Ill talk about the food first! Here in Hoi An there are many specialities which are renown and unique to this town. There is a delicious salad-type dish called Cao Lao which consists of noodles, bean sprouts, pork or tofu, a crouton type crunchy bread all mixed in a delicious soya, chilli and lime sauce. To be the real deal, the food must be prepared using water from an ancient Cham era well that is found down one of the alleys in town- to use other water means it cant taste as delicious! There are Fried Wontons, which are like a kind of nacho with delicious sauce on top, there is a dish called White Rose which is shrimp wrapped in rice paper, and being close to both a river and 3km to the sea, there is also amazing seafood! Many of the restaurants do set menus which involve 5 courses in various combinations of food coming to about 50,000 Dong (US$ 3.50) These menus are superb and are a great way to try all the many specialities. I cannot get over just how fresh and tasty the food here is everywhere we go in Vietnam- I will find it very difficult to eat the processed crap we get in Australia ever again! The only thing I am disappointed I didnt do whilst here was a cooking class to learn how to recreate the delicious local meals!
So theres food and my other love shopping. It is a womans dream here! Hoi An is renown for its tailor-shops which line the streets, stocking reams and reams of fabrics. It is a wonderful experience going clothes shopping here. You will walk in (or be called in by the shop keepers!) into the shop and sit down to browse catalogues. When you find something you would like made, you choose the fabric you want it made in, then you will be measured, a price is quoted, some bargaining ensues and the deposit is paid. A few hours later, you return to the shop, try it on, get any necessary adjustments made, and then pick up the completed garment before the day is over! The tailors are also great at copying, so I took in a few things to be made in different fabrics and they have come back better than the original!
That said, the quality of the fabrics and the cutting and sewing will vary from shop to shop, and it can be really over-whelming with over 300 tailor shops to choose from,as well as touch and go in terms of quality in knowing which shop to go to. Some have marvelous reputations but are also very pricey, and from my experience, the best items I have had made have been from quiet little shops in an alleyway tucked away from the main streets. It is possible to have an entire new designer, tailor made wardrobe done here for under $100. Seriously! Check out the pictures of the wares we have had made in preparation for job interviews and working in Hanoi!
It doesnt end with the clothes though. These people are also experts at recreating shoes of any style, design and brand, and there are some beautiful hand-bags as well!
Mal and I have both gone a bit nuts shopping here! It might be due to the fact we have been scrimping and saving for the past two months and are ready to splurge or it could be that we have just one more city to go to before Hanoi, so therefore we dont have to worry about space in our backpacks anymore .or because we know we will be working soon so can go over our budgets a little bit .or because its soooo cheap and we need to get nice clothes for interviews etc in Hanoi .or because weve just gone on a bit of a frenzy cos it is fun or a combination of all these things! But I am now the proud owner of three new custom-made shoes in leather, which cost an average of $7 each, a suit which cost $20, several nice tops at $8 each, a funky skirt ($10) and some casual tops ($4 each) .as well as two new handbags! Ha ha! We have to buy an extra bag to put our new wares into!!! It is such fun, but Mal has discovered that shopping is tiring work (he conked out like a light at 8pm after our first big day of shopping), whilst I am just enjoying the buzz! Ladies, you all know what I am talking about!
We havent done much more than shop and eat delicious food while here .and drink beer .most of the restaurants have 3000 Dong draught beer (that is about 20c folks) so we have been resting our weary feet from the pavements with a refreshing ale when the heat of the day and the decisions and bargaining have sapped us of all our energy! We even sat down for some brews with two sisters who made our shoes for us after they finished work and shut up shop for the day. They have the same spirit as us Australians- after a hard days work they like nothing more than a cold fresh beer from the bia hoi! I havent met many Asian women who enjoy drinking beer, so it was a refreshing change for us to sit with them and drink beer and learn a Vietnamese card game for an hour or two.
Oh, and it was bound to happen- I bumped into a grad from the course whilst I was in one of the tailors shops! He is running tours here for one of the big tour companies- he heard my voice and recognized it as being me, so there is now another person to catch up with Hanoi when he takes tour groups there!
We managed to drag ourselves away from the town for a few hours to visit the beach yesterday afternoon. Can this place get any better?? The beach is sublime, and the perfect place to chill out- the weather here is HOT (at least 35 degrees) so the dip in the ocean was divinely refreshing!
I visited My Son today, which is an area 60km out of town where archaeologists only recently (last two decades) discovered the remains of Cham temples. The temples were mostly all destroyed during the many wars here, and what remains are kind of mediocre when compared to those of Angkor Wat in Cambodia. However, the scenery was nice, with a beautiful mountain backdrop, and my tour also took us on a boat down the river back into town which was pleasant (more calm than the hectic roads with the constant honking and beeping and swerving!). Seeing the fisherman at work, and visiting the little artisans towns reminded me of where many of the things for sale in the town actually come from!
I also took a big long walk around Hoi An upon my return back- it was marvelous to stroll the streets and soak up the energy of this magnificently old place. Some of the buildings have moss growing over the walls, and the buildings all seem to tell a story of the past. There are temples, alleys with wells that are still in use, pagodas all interspersed among the old shop fronts. The Hoi An market place was fantastic to stroll through in the afternoon when it was at its busiest, as locals haggled to buy fresh food for dinner, and hawkers tried to sell their various wares. It is mostly women who work in the market stalls, some who appear so old it is incredible. One old lady cracked me up- she looked as ancient as the town itself with many wrinkles on her face and she had rotting teeth from too many betel nuts, and was holding up a whole live fish saying to me hey lady, you buy fish, good price! with a big orange toothy grin and a chuckle. Everyone here has smiles on their faces as they methodically and efficiently go about their work. I also sampled some delicious market food- Ban Sao was my favourite, which is like a crepe filled with bean sprouts and herbs, wrapped in rice paper and then dipped in a relish type sauce. One roll costs just 3000 Dong, and taste amazing! How did I get back to talking about the food again??
I had an arduous post office experience sending some xmas presents home. For each parcel I had to complete FOUR forms with the SAME information listing my name, the receivers name, the content of the parcel, the prices each item was worth etc etc insanity. It took an hour for me to line up, complete the forms, have the lady pack them in boxes and envelopes, stamp and then process them all! Such inefficiency I just hope the service itself is efficient and the packages arrive!
Nothing is too much trouble for the Vietnamese, and anything you want or need is possible for them to find, make or create! Mal wanted a belt, and when one lady didnt have the right length or buckle, she ran around cheerfully, finding a belt that was sized better and then attached a buckle from another belt to create the perfect one for Mal at the meager price of $5! They really do go out of their way for an extra dollar!
All-in-all the relaxed atmosphere of this place, the friendliness of the people, the great vibe and energy and the SHOPPING make this a place I could definitely return to and easily live in. Were off to Hue tomorrow for about two days, and then its Hanoi to settle for a while- we need to start working asap after all this shopping!
Love and laughter,
Sim xoxo
After leaving heavenly Hoi An, we have spent the last two days in Hue, a smallish town north of Hoi An in central Vietnam. This town lacks the charm of other cities we have been to, but is still a very interesting region of the country for a variety of reasons. Like Hoi An, there are many historical monuments and buildings here, including the tombs of emperors and the remains of a walled and moated citadel. There is also the Perfume River which is quite picturesque as it wends it way through the town, and Hue is an easy access point for visiting war relics sites.
We spent a long, tiring day, mostly on an old bus, to travel around the De-Militarised Zone (DMZ) which is about 2 hours north of Hue. Its name is actually a complete ironical contradiction, as this region was possibly the most heavily bombed place during the Vietnam War (known as the American War to the Vietnamese).
It was remarkable to see the barren landscape in the area which marked the partition border between north and south Vietnam. This area was originally set up to safely allow movement of soldiers and artillery when the war first began, but became a key strategy point for both sides once the war was in full force. It is hard to imagine that the countryside was once all jungle .continuous bombing raids and Agent Orange deforestation ensured the area in the DMZ was completely destroyed. Now, 20 years on, the local people who stood their ground and lived in a whole system of underground tunnels for decades have returned to their home soils to try and make the most of the land. Sadly, many people have fallen victim to Agent Orange, with deformities in babies still occurring, and the ground is no longer volcanic rich, but mineral poor and chemical laden, making some of the saddest looking rice paddies I have seen so far in SE Asia.
We visited the Vihn Mihn tunnels- a much more extensive network than those at Cu Chi near Saigon, but also wider and easier to walk through. The underground network stretched for kilometers in wartime, and allowed supplies to be moved, VC troupes to travel safely, and also the local people to live in relative safety from the war-shed- there were 14 babies born in the tunnels over the period of the war, and there was even an area underground for families to watch movies projected on the tunnel walls!
We saw pictures of the DMZ border area before the war, and then directly after war .whilst the ravaged land looks better now than it did in 1975, there is still evidence of the B52 bombs and Drilling Bombs .craters pockmark the land forming large ponds/karge lakes in peoples land.
We also visited a small section of the HCM Trails which were a vital element for the communists in the norths success during the war, allowing easy movement in relative secrecy from north to south. They have actually turned some of the old trail into bitumen highway these days, although apparently there are original sections of the jungle track still intact to this day.
We drove past other sites that were household names in the war time coverage on TV- The Rockpile, and also a visit to the old Keh Sahn Aircraft Base which these days looks extremely peaceful and beautiful. Locals grow rubber trees and coffee on the land now, and the area is green and lush looking. There are some small reminders of what it must have been like during war- bunkers, old artillery and a massive Sihanouk helicopter, as well as a museum with some quite poignant pictures of the war (all from the Vietnamese perspective of course!). The guest book, signed by people from all over the world, including vets, was a poignant reminder of just how controversial the war was, and remains to be to this day, to many people.
Meanwhile, and in fitting with this blogs title I am also in the wars after having my first bicycle crash! It has been years since I fell from a bike (I vaguely remember the last incident being when I was living in Paddington and crashed into a fence after too many wines ) but this is probably my most spectacular fall! It was bound to happen at some stage- the traffic in this country is insane and lawless, and even though everyone drives and rides slowly and everyone watches for the other, it is still easy to have accidents and we have seen several happen in front of us in our journeys. So off we ride over the bridge that would lead us to the citadel for an explore. It all happened rather quickly, and all I remember is riding one minute and crashing to the ground the next, but Malcolm tells me a lady swerved in front of me then slowed down and I clipped the back of her scooter, thus throwing me off balance and crashing onto the ground! Im ok, I have a number of bruises and scratches and yes, there was blood .but I survived and even got back on the bike even though I was a bit shaky! I have lost my confidence on the roads a bit now, but Im sure Ill recover!
The strange thing is, both Mal and I had dreams the night before which we talked about when we first woke up in the morning, and in Mal`s dream, I had an accident on a bike and hurt my leg, and in my dream, Mal wouldn`t let me ride a motorbike because he thought I would crash it. Spooky huh?
To top off a rather odd day, it bucketed with rain, and we got soaking wet until we found a stand selling those daggy emergency raincoats. Thing is, they were cool, as EVERYONE was wearing them. It`s funny...the local people see
Ill keep this short as Sim has pretty much covered everything in her entry however, just wanted to share two strange things that topped off our decidedly odd day.
After Sims bike crash, we went in to the Citadel (a reinforced French fortress city). This thing is gimungous. Outer wall perimeter: 25km. Do the sums and thats about 37 square kilometres inside. Theres an entire town inside and also a fortress within this fortress. Within this inner, inner fortress is temples and the ruins of palaces and also some elephants. The whole citadel area is pocked by bullet and mortar holes and brick rubble so its very easy to imagine that this place has seen some action.
Anywhoo apparently mimosa plants grow inside the citadel... which the Lonely Planet states are touch sensitive. We dont really know what a Mimosa plant looks like, but the thought of a "touch sensitive" plant was too tempting so a large amount of our time in the citadel was spent looking for any odd shaped plants, staring at it for a while, and then tentatively poking it. I dunno if we were expecting the plants to recoil, bite our arms off or start singing Frank Sinatra, but the only reaction we got was a few strange looks from passers by.
The other weird thing was that at about 3:30pm it started raining so we had to seek shelter in a little temple. As we were waiting, we heard a few bursts of pistol and machine gun fire near the entrance of the citadel. We had explored the citadel and surrounds the whole day, and knew for a fact that there wasnt any firing range near by. This was made more disturbing by the fact that the lady in the temple we were currently standing in had an assault rifle sitting on the floor in front of her (so far all the security we had seen didnt even have a pistol). The icing though was hearing the massive boom of an artillery round being fired from a completely separate location. It didnt sound like a ceremonial parade as the gunfire was erratic, and the only thing that stopped me from freaking was that GI Jane inside our temple didnt run outside wielding her gun so we guessed this must be routine.
Anyway, we got outside and everything seemed normal... but yeah... interesting day :)
Gday. Just a quick note to say that we have a new movie of driving through Dalat (one of the quieter towns) on a scooter. I think it gives a good indication of what the traffic can be like (although its got nothing on Hanoi or HCMC.. especially in peak times).
Peace all
Kanga is now in high-demand on the streets (or at least Bia Hoi Junction) in Hanoi. He was much-loved after a period of non-appearance from Mal`s backpack for a few weeks. We were offered many Vietnamese Dong for him...we had to decline of course, given that he was a gift from Reuben and Cherie and all, but really, the locals LOVED him and all his plastic Kanga glory!
Greetings and salutations. As you may have noticed from my blog title, we are still in Vietnam. Good pickup.
First up, heres the address for the blog of a guy we met in Thailand on Kho- Pagnan. I know its completely out of order here in this blog, but thats the way he would like it cause this guy is out of order, and very funny, so check it out!
http://myspace.com/idiotmanchild69
Sean if you are reading this you bastard at least I mentioned you in more than a passing reference! Im crying right now dude.
So we are in Hanoi at the moment. I would like to report on some of the wonderful things that this city has to offer, but to be honest I have spent my entire time here studying my ass off in the hotel room. Finally got my uni books from the Hanoi post office (muchos catch up work happening), and we also have to look for jobs... actually , *I* have to look for a job. At the time of writing, Simone already has two (and interviews for about 150 more) and if I dont apply soon Im pretty sure she will have been accepted for every position in this city. So yeah Im also frantically revising my teaching material.
Additionally, its cold wet and rainy here!! It only started on the day we arrived which convinces me that I have godlike powers to affect the weather (the weather is merely reflecting my reluctance to start work again)
. But yeah Im excited about this city. Hanoi appears to be like a coconut. Less furry though, and not edible. Its also not as small. And it doesnt grow on trees and isnt round. Coco-nutty however in that one needs to probably put in a bit of effort to crack open the goodness, but the flesh and juice inside the hard shell is well worth it.
If you cant tell already Im writing this entry whilst rather pissed. Beer here is really cheap and we are near a street intersection where there is a Bia Hoi . ON EVERY FUCKING CORNER!!!! 2000 Dong for a big glass thats about 17 cents in the AUD folks. God bless competition.
Accidents are a regular occurrence here. I think I mentioned in a previous entry that the craziness is offset by increased awareness. I retract said statement. It really is nuts here (although nothing on Saigon).
Looking forward to settling in. Super cheap. We will be able to save a fair bit here and the city has a lot of charm. Still busting and crazy like any South-East Asian metropolis that we have been to, but I think theres going to be a cool undercurrent here. Been to some nice cafes, met some interesting people (both locals and expats). More to come soon (once I have extricated myself from our room and explored).
A final call out to Sophie and Jamie, our beer drinking buddies since Cambodia. These guys rock and are currently in Laos. You can check out their blog at www.eggboys.net
Thanks for writing on our message board everyone. We miss you all.
Peace
Malcolm
It has been a while between blogs so we both thought it was time to update with an entry the truth is, we have been so engrossed with settling here in Hanoi that we havent even seen any of the place weird huh?
A check of our bank balances upon arrival in Hanoi really just heightened our sense of need to find work as quickly as possible. So it has been a strange past few days where reality has hit with a KA-BOOM!
9 weeks of freedom and happiness, exploring SE Asia and then arrival in a new city where we have to start getting a job ASAP .kinda surreal. To make matters even more interesting is the departure of our good friends and drinking buddies Sophie and Jamie who met while on tour, which really just signified the end of a lot of a good times!
Not that we are having a bad time..its just different. We are staying in a hotel in the Old Quarter of Hanoi where we pay $13 night and get a free breakfast and free unlimited wireless internet from our rooms, so an excellent deal. The downfall- we have no window, so whilst it is very handy to have the internet 24/7 while looking for jobs and doing research online, it isnt good for the soul or mind. It`s kinda like living in a soundless and timeless vortex or something where there is no idea or indication of the outside world. Add to that the fact the temperature has dropped 10 degrees from what we are used to- it is about 18 max here with cloud and fog and mist all day- and it can be a bit of a dampener to the spirits!
Luckily, I have met up with one of my TI grads, Angela, who got here a week or so before us, and who is staying with some fellow teacher friends while she also settles here .we picked her friends Sean and Emmas brains about life here (as they have been here for 6 months already!) and they even told us about a very cool arty café nearby called Puku that has free wireless, so we camped out there for a day for a change of scenery (or should that be an addition of some actual scenery!?) and drank coffee and ate the first western food in ages!
The good news is, after emailing out about 25 job applications, I have 2 jobs! Plus another interview tomorrow and expressions of interest for the new year when new courses start after the Tet Festival!
I start on Monday at a place called UNESCO Centre for Development (I dont think it is THE "UNESCO" Vietnamese like to copy successful organisations names!) where I will be teaching IELTS and TOEFL-IBT every night 6 days a week plus I will be at a place called Michigan College on Friday afternoons (starting tomorrow!) teaching pronunciation and providing speaking practice (in Business English terminology) to staff from AgriBank, who are going to Australia to work in three months time. Some interesting and challenging work the kids at UNESCO want to go to uni in Australia as their parents work for Petrol Vietnam and are moving to Australia in March. The pay is good at US $20 per hour .so I should be able to save heaps each week with 25 hours a week of teaching hours, which is good, given that we are low on funds at the moment!
I have another interview tomorrow at another private school the problem is that most of the work is in the evenings when people finish work, so daytimes are very free but evenings are not so! I don`t mind working evenings at all, but it just means that all the work on offer is for the same times! I might offer this position to Mal if it is given to me, as the hours will now clash with mine
We want to move into an apartment ASAP, and are going to see a place that has a room for rent with some other expats over the weekend. Will be good to not feel so cooped-up and restless and to have a place to call our own with some privacy!
I cant really share too much about Hanoi itself as I have truly not explored it- been so wrapped up in job-searching that it hasnt been a priority given we will be here for 6 months I can say the traffic is not as bad as HCM (but it is still terribly congested at peak-hour!), that the people are much more reserved here so harder to get to know than other places we have been to in Vietnam, and that it does seem like an interesting place to be in with lakes and museums and temples to explore
I had an experience today with a xe om driver which brings me to the topic of this blog .my motorcycle driver took me somewhere in the complete opposite direction to where I wanted to go! Someone at the school Ill be teaching at even told the driver in Vietnamese where I wanted to go and I showed him on my map, but he didnt admit he had no idea where the street I wanted to go was so I figured out after driving for 45 minutes and passing nothing that looked familiar that I had no idea where he or I was, and told him to stop. He demanded more money for taking me so far, and then drove off .I had no clue which direction I was meants to be, and had to walk for ages to find anywhere to ask someone .I got blisters on my feet from my stupid shoes then finally found somewhere with people and thankfully they spoke English! I found out I was 12km in the opposite direction from where we stay and I was about to panic a bit, and then the kind man at this shop said he would drive me to my hotel! For free! He said he didnt need the money but he needed practice in his English, so he drove me on an hour-long journey on his motorbike from one end of Hanoi to the other and refused money when he dropped me at the front door to my hotel. I could hardly believe it! A good experience to top-off a terrible one, and really, it epitomizes this week in general.
When I got back to our room, Mal made it even better by giving me ice-cream, a glass of red wine, fixed up my bleeding blisters with Bandaids and then presented me with some beautiful jade earrings (he must have known I was a girl in need!) so the afternoon became quite rosy again!
It has been an up and down, rough and tumble week as we find our feet and get back into the groove of NOT being cruisy travelers, and try to be respectable and knowledgeable English teachers! It is sad to think that the free journeying has come to an end, but at the same time, it is exciting to settle into a new place and face new challenges where we can actually earn good money too! I am really excited about settling here, but guess I feel a bit unsettled or something at the moment- things are good, I promise!
I cant believe we arrived here on Sunday and that I start work on Friday! I also cant believe we live 100 metres from the junction where there are bia hois selling beer for 2000 Dong (17c) a glass!! We have also found our new favourite local restaurant for good, cheap Vietnamese meals!
Well, thats it for now from me! Will explore over the weekend and have more to actually share about this city then!
Love, peace and sunshine
Sim xoxo
PS Email me with your phone number if you want to hear my voice- we have voip set up now and can make uber cheap calls to anywhere at anytime!!
We have both mentioned a number of times how crazy the traffic is here in Vietnam, and really, it has to be experienced to be believed! I find it difficult to chill-out while sitting on the back of a xe om (motorcycle), for a number of reasons. Firstly, the drivers seem to be on a kamikaze mission most of the time, and only narrowly avoid hitting people (and sometimes actually do scrape other vehicles) and also drive very fast (the speedometers always seem to be broken, so a cursory glance at the dial always reveals we are going 0 km/ph). Secondly, it is particularly precarious at peak-hour when the traffic does reach a stand-still at times, and this can be awful when our bike sits behind a bus that is spewing out diesel fumes. It is hard to leave my life in the hands of these drivers, but I just have to hope that they value their lives as much as I value mine and that they know what they are doing when they take a left turn at the last minute and swerve into a surge of on-coming traffic. It is scary, but fun, and really the most convenient, quickest and cheapest way of getting around town. I have been doing heaps of traveling around Hanoi this week, going to job interviews at colleges that are dispersed all around town- I have been able to see heaps of the city, and also seen some funny stuff on the roads. Here is just a few of the things I saw tonight when on my way home from teaching my first Vietnamese class (woohoo!):
1. A man standing in the middle of the road holding two dead ducks upside down, by the legs, I think trying to sell them but I am not sure
2. A man with his baby tied to him by a rope that attached the baby to him and the bike so as it didnt fall off (they do have these great little baby high chairs attached to some bikes, a rather ingenious invention that really makes you wonder how necessary car seats and Land Rovers in Australia are!)
3. A young guy driving his motorbike whilst texting on his mobile phone and with three of his mates jammed in like sardines behind him
4. A puppy sitting on the seat with his front paws holding the handlebars whilst being driven by his owner (this is how toddlers normally get about when driven by their parents, but this is the first time I have seen it done doggy style )
5. A xe om driver with so many boxes tied and attached in front of him and behind him that I am surprised he could balance, let alone drive the bicycle at high speed
6. A guy holding a huge inflated plastic bag that flew above him, and which was filled with what appeared to be hundreds of helium balloons (he was driving a bicycle whilst holding this strange air-born site!)
7. A poor young girl and her friend who had to walk her bicycle as it was hopeless to try and ride it with the two of them, when the traffic was moving so slowly
8. A motorcade (as such) of about 10 different bicycles loaded up with ceramics from the countryside, they were piled up at least a metre high- cups, plates, saucers, vases- all precariously balanced on the back of the seat and tied on also to a kind of side-car. The poor driver has to pull/push the bike through the traffic, and I have no idea how nothing breaks even when they ARE riding the bike!
There are many more things that I forget right now! Just another day living and teaching in Vietnam I guess!
I got offered another job today too! As a DOS at a school, but think I will turn it down as the pay is not as much as I can get if I just work as a teacher .not sure if I want the extra responsibility without the money I know its not all about the money and that I should be thinking of my career advancement, but well, I kinda want to have some fun for a while too!
Anyways, I will love you and leave you! Will let you know of more funny things as they occur!
Love Sim xox
Last time I wrote, the Number of English teaching jobs being held at once Scoreboard looked like:
Simone: 55
Malcolm 0
I am happy to report that I have made a comeback though. The score is now much more interesting at:
Simone: 243
Malcolm: 1
Yes although Simone has since been accepted for every single English job within South East Asia, I have just completed my first class like ever.
Id like to say that I did well, but lets just say I did. I can see that it going to be a steep learning curve, and It will require a balance of discipline and friendliness to keep the classes fun. Fortunately I only had to strangle one child to death to prove my authority. I was scared that I may have to knock off three or more, which the Director may have noticed.
So now the super hard part is over, it will hopefully get easier and easier. Been a bit stressed with uni and job hunting and running out of cash over the last week, but there is a light at the end of the tunnel now.
Simone has just got back from one of her classes, so we are off to dinner. I think people are going to think I am beating her up. She slipped in the bath today and banged her nose and hit her head. Combined with the bicycle crash she has been in the wars, so Im sure she will appreciate any AWWWWW!!!s that you can muster on the message board.
Peace all
Sim says: Flies by in a flash
I can seriously hardly believe that we have now been in Hanoi for 2 weeks!! It has gone by in a flash, like a blur, and it was only when we checked out of our hotel to move to a new guesthouse that this became apparent. I actually disputed the bill when the reception guy told us that we had been here for twelve days I was incredulous what, 12 days? No, we have only been here for 10 days!. So out comes the sign-in register and I was proven to be wrong .12 days?!?!
It has been a weird two weeks. When Mal and I arrived, it was 6am and wed been on a hellish 14 hour bus ride from Hue. Wed checked into the first hotel we found that was open, and when they gave us a room without a window, I said to Mal it was just a temporary place to stay. Since then, I cant really detail everything (or anything?!) we have done. I remember looking at my bank balance and thinking, okay, we have to get jobs straight away.. and then I remember spending a whole day inside a dark, timeless void of a room, sending out my resume and cover letter to every school I found advertised in the www.newhanoian.com website. Then what ensued was a barrage of phone calls and emails from schools I went to several interviews for positions, and ended up with numerous job offers by the end of the week. Actually, it was before the end of the week, as I taught my first ESL class in 2 years on the Friday afternoon of last week!
I have ended up taking positions at the schools which offered me the most money and least responsibility! I was offered several full-time positions at the big franchise schools- English First, Language Links, part-time work at some small private schools, relief work at the Hanoi International School and even a DoS position at a private language school thats desparate for someone to take over the academic work at their school!
Its turned out to be much more viable for me to work as a freelancer, doing several hours at a few schools. My new schedule is: Mon-Sat, I work every evening at a place called UNESCO Vietnam Development School (it is not the UNESCO, but is affiliated with British Council and is owned by a very influential Vietnamese family) and is where I teach IELTS and TOEFL to students from 17-45 years old, as well as a group of young adults whose parents work for Vietnam Petroleum and are moving to Adelaide with their families is March. I am also doing an in-company business class for AgriBank staff, who are also coming to Australia is March, and then finally a Saturday morning at a small school where Mal is also working (incidentally, the same school that wants me as their DoS). I have now worked a full week, and feel exhausted! I am hoping to ditch the Sat morning kids class (to Mal!!) and that will make things much better. I just think it is ironic that I leave Australia to stop doing shift work, and end up in Vietnam doing just that! At least here Mal is doing the same shift work as me, so we have daytimes off together! That just seems to be when the work is available in Vietnam.
The students here are absolute dreams to teach and I am having a good time getting back into teaching. Its nice, as it has been years since I taught IELTS and I have never taught TOEFL-IBT before, so I have had to do a bit re-learning and research myself. This week has been chaotic, figuring out the new schools systems and getting to know students, and I think it will be easier next week.
Today I went for an interview at a well-known, reputable school called Apollo. They have also offered me work whenever I want it. I feel like Im in a very good position right now, as my job at UNESCO is just for 4 weeks at the moment, as I am taking classes for a teacher whos on holidays, so when this contract finishes, Ill be able to take work at Apollo. I might also have the chance to stay at UNESCO, as they have been getting good reports from students this week, and might start a new class for me to take its all good in any case.
I am being paid well- $19 US tax-free per hour- but I dont get paid til 1st Jan, so I cant wait til then to go shopping! Its chilly at the moment in Hanoi, so I want to buy a nice winter jacket- it gets quite breezy on the back of a xe om going to work (and it messes up your hair J ). It is going to be so good to live here when earning money! Our new guest house is nicer than where we were- it has a window and it is cheaper!- but we still dont feel settled and want to get an apartment to call home. I want to buy a kettle and an iron too sometime soon!
So many random things happen on a daily basis here, I have so much I want to say, but this blog entry is long enough already. Oh, I fell over in the bath the other day- totally slipped and banged my whole face on the side of the tub which I was standing in to shower- and I have a huge shiner now! Bruised eye and scratched nose- I was bleeding lots and had flaps of skin were hanging off my nose, totally gross and I had to go to interviews and be respectable! It has been a strange week.
Thats it in a nutshell. Still havent got much of Hanoi to comment on, as still havent seen much other than that I see on the back of the motorbikes, but I can say today was sunny and gorgeous! Hanoi showed her true, beautiful and easy-going colours today. I think both Mal and I needed to see some sunshine today its been a bit of a low-point the last week or so actually settling somewhere again, and it all seemed more worthwhile after todays burst of sunshine and beauty.
Love to all
Sim xoxox
So now Im into a bit of a work routine, which allows me to start experiencing life here in Vietnam as a foreigner whos not traveling through, but as one who is living here and working here.
Theres a bit of a scene, I guess you would call it, of foreigners living here in Hanoi- not just English speakers, but many French and Koreans also, and includes people of all ages from teenage kids who are living here because their parents are working here with their rich companies, heaps of 20-something English teachers, and others working in fields such as IT or banking.
It would be very easy to slip into this scene which revolves around getting together and eating at cafes which are only frequented by other ex-pats as we are the only ones who can afford the meals and drinks. That said, these more exclusive and expensive places are really quite cheap when compared with home and what wed pay for a café lunchtime meal or dinnertime restaurant. Its kinda fun, a good way of meeting other English speaking people, to share stories and go out with. However, not so good for learning Vietnamese or meeting any locals who can teach us about their culture.
That said, with the territory of being an expat comes with being continually ripped off by locals the number of times we have been overcharged at restaurants, cafes and stalls is growing with every day and our infuriation when it happens is also growing to a point where we now seeth for hours afterwards about the rort! Staff at cafes will present a bill with an exhorbitantly higher total than we expected, but then wont show us the bill and make up all these claims about charging us the large sized price and all sorts of other nonsense .we will pay it as we dont want to make a scene and then just wipe that café off our list of places to dine, but it has kinda got to the point where we are now prepared to cause a scene, will not leave until we see the bill, and will refuse to pay prices that are different to that listed on the menu. We understand that we can be charged a little more than the locals, as we are foreigners, but the prices we have been getting charged lately are so high that we couldnt survive here without working a 50 hour week- there needs to be an understanding that we have more money than they do, but that we are not walking ATM machines with endless amounts of cash. Especially at this moment in time before we get our first pays, and we are down to our last pennies. Sooooo maddening! I cant wait to start learning more Vietnamese so I can hold my own with the locals!
Its actually unavoidable to meet other foreigners when teaching here- all the schools have other foreign teachers working for them, and its difficult not to get to know them. Afterall, we have a lot in common as teachers in a foreign land. We went to a house warming party last weekend, for a teacher couple who our friend Ang met through school, and everyone there was a newly-trained CELTA grad! Lots of shop talk went on, but also got to meet some interesting people too.
I had one of the best times ever last Friday when I was invited by my school (or kinda strongly requested ) to attend a picnic with my class of business students. It was a hoot! These students, all middle-aged banking executives, really know how to have a good time. It was awesome to get into the psyche of these people for a day, and whilst it reminded me in many ways of similar times I had with people in China, this was more fun as the people here are just way more down-to-earth, love to joke and tease and have great sense of humour! More so than I ever experienced with my local Chinese friends, anyway.
There was 30 of us all going to this resort-type place 70km out of town at the foot of a mountain. It was not exactly a natural environment, with paved walkways for the climb up the mountain and buildings everywhere, but I guess the scenery was nice enough. There was fruit being passed around by everyone the whole day! The Vietnamese are always snacking and eating away throughout the day, I dont know how they stay so slim! We had a huge banquet lunch where everyone proceeded to toast and cheers bottles of vodka wine swilled from oversized thimble glasses. It was hilarious watching everyone drink and get drunk .I wasnt drinking as I had to work later on, but was forced to drink this drink called Birds Nest which is made from the saliva of a bird that is supposed to make you strong and healthy and this white fungus stuff which was floating in globules throughout the clear bird saliva. EWWWWWWWWWW!!!!
That aside, it was a merry time, with some really strong characters who made jokes, sang songs and told funny stories. We also spent the afternoon playing karaoke with beers and more fruit being zealously distributed around. They made me sing a song- I shyly did Beatles Yesterday, but after an hour or so listening to everyone screeching painfully down the microphone, I lost my inhibitions and did a few more renditions, my favourite being that when I sang along to Abbas Happy New Year, accompanied by three of my students surrounding me with another microphone while we belted it out just beautifully. Hahahahahah! It was such a good day!
Yesterday we went walking and exploring, eating delicious food and drinking coffee (then beer) at various places around the city. Felt like a tourist for the first time since being here and was sooo happy the sun was out on my day off!
And it has dawned on me that I am back doing shift work, but in alignment with Mal, which means we both get to work til late every night then be the night owls that we are and go to bed late, but then being able to sleep in every morning and hang out all day and do stuff! Today we met our friend Ang for lunch while we plotted out a plan for finding an apartment for us to all share, and also figuring out what well do for xmas and new years which I realized today are just a week away! Crazy!
They do celebrate xmas here in that there are a few decorations up about the place and also it is a public holiday for people, as is new years day (so happy to hear that news from my DoS this afternoon!), however there is none of that xmas craziness that happens in the West at all. It is so refreshing! Looks like Ill be going to my works xmas party and then spend xmas day with some other expats and maybe well have an apartment in time for a combined New Years/House Warming Party! Fingers crossed!
Oh and one last thing before I sign off- I have been asked to stay and keep working at my school UNESCO (it was intended to be just a 1 month relief stint for a holidaying teacher) as they will have some new classes in the new year. Yey! Its a good place to work, small and relaxed, nice students, nice other teachers and owner and manager and DoS, PLUS I get paid tax-free at a good rate, so it would be crazy not to take them up on the offer.
Wow, this is a long entry, I feel inspired again I guess after the doldrums last week. I will write a big entry soon on English Teaching in Vietnam specifically with info about the schools etc for all those who want info on that sort of stuff!
Love to all
Sim xo
Its scary how easy it is to get in to a routine :)
Straight up, Hanoi is great. I think I may have mentioned this in a previous blog, but I want to reinforce it now. The sun has been out for a few days now, and the fact that our bank accounts are no longer in a state of free-fall allows us to sit back and enjoy the view.
Hanoi isnt crazy like Bangkok (I havent seen any lady-boys or nightclubs) but is has a frenetic charm... if such a thing can exist. This place manages to be crazy but still maintain an air of quietness and dignity.
We are currently looking for a house. Because they used to tax houses based on their street frontage, everything here is really tall and narrow! You can get a brand new inner city 5 story house with 3 bedrooms, two lounge rooms, 4 bathrooms, 3 balconies and a rooftop terrace, fully furnished with appliances, aircon and wireless internet for around $650AUD per month . sweet. That sounds excessive I know, but all the houses are like that and its the cheapest way to go! We are going to share with our friend Angela and then Joss and Yonna when they come over in February, so it works out super cheap. One of the places we looked at even had a guard with an Ak-47!
Its really easy to have a great lifestyle here. Our classes are in the evening, so we can sleep in, get a late breakfast, go for a walk around the lake and then plan our lessons during the day. Just teaching 15 hours per week, you can live in style, eat well, drink well, do anything you want and still save around $100-$150 per week. If you want to save heavily and then take a break, you can just do a 20 hour week and then you are saving at least $200 per week. Additionally, teachers are very well respected here and its great being treated as an adult, rather than being part of the corporate machine. Overall it makes for a great and refreshing change, with heaps of perks.
We have been slow off the mark making friends with the locals here. Its weird, how when you know you are going to be in one area for a while, you can start to take things for granted. We have been chatting heartily to every stranger we have met over the last 3 months on the road, but now we are living in Hanoi, we havent gone out of our way. Hopefully its just because we have been busy getting jobs, doing uni and finding a house.
In any event, its really nice here and it continues to get better as we get our shit sorted.
A Special call out to Tabs and Dav, have fun at Woodford guys! We wish we could be there. I have a massive tarpaulin (About 30 Square metres). If you want to borrow it for the communal area in your tent city, just send me an email or something. Anna could pick it up from my mother in Toowoomba.
Peace all and Merry Christmas. Were going to put up a video soon saying gday. Seeya
Gday All, A quick shout out to everyone (You know who you are). Have a great Christmas wherever you are. There is a video below of us saying hello.
Love from Mal and Simone
I figured out last night that this is my fourth Christmas time spent abroad. It is always strange to spend this crazy time of year in another country where the festivities and traditions are different. At least here in Hanoi it was a public holiday for many people, and my school put on a bit of a party on Christmas Eve this kind of recognition of the day is lovely and better than when I was in China and Christmas Day was just like any other and I had to work!
I am not even the hugest fan of Christmas- crazy family shenanigans and the whole commercialism of the day turns me off .but it is probably the most important celebration in the Western calendar (in line with New Years Eve!) so it has to be celebrated really.
So we had the Christmas Eve do at my school which involved eating from a huge buffet spread of food, and drinking lots of wine and beer while listening to cheesy Christmas carols. Some of my students came too which was nice- there is a picture attached to this blog!
We went out with some of the teachers after the party and proceeded to drink some more and needless to say I was hung-over yesterday! We met up with our friend Angela and walked around the lake in the sunshine, had some food and beers, wandered some more, had some more beers and then more food pretty much what we do on Christmas Day anyway huh? In the early evening we went to the house of some other ex-pats for a party with secret santa.
This party involved more eating and drinking and the secret santa was quite funny as the theme was to bring something unusual I ended up with a Pooh Bear pillow and Mal got a 10 DVD Monty Python Boxed set! Oh, and I bumped into another TI grad who Id trained about a year-and-a-half ago a third of the people at the party were actually my graduates! Pretty funny!
I had a good time at this party as there were some English teachers, but also people doing various kinds of research for Masters degrees and PHds, so intelligent conversation and very interesting to hear what people do here other than teaching! I also got a call from Jackie which just made my day!! Thanks babe!!
So now we wait to see what New Years Eve Hanoi style beholds us I am sure we will get up to mischief!
I hope everyone had a wonderful Christmas Day wherever you were celebrating!
Lots of Love and Laughter
Sim xoxoxox
There really is no such thing as peace and quite in Hanoi (specifically), or in Vietnam generally. Every day (and night) brings a cacophony of sounds that can sometimes make sleepingin to be near impossible.
First, there is the traffic. The sound of motorbikes honking their horns is relentless. The Vietnamese use horns here like we use a gear shift in a car normally- that is, ALL the time. The horn is basically a warning, a hey, watch out, I am coming through and I have no intention of stopping, so move it!. The motorbikes here rule the roads, there is usually at least 3 lanes of bikes within a lane here, so there is hundreds of bikes vying for their piece of the road at any one time, all honking their warning of passing by (invariably, it is more than one honk too, more a series of quick bursts of about 4 or 5 toots!). Then theres the cars and buses, which have bigger sounding air horns, I guess to differentiate themselves from the motorbikes. When on a bike, you know the sound of the big horns, and that the vehicle that made the noise means business, so you bust a move out of the way. These horns sound very loudly to be heard over the dull collective roar of the motorbike horns and can be clearly heard from inside our 6th floor room down a quiet (relatively) laneway away from the main road.
If I wake up late at night or early morning, I can usually tell what the time is without looking at my watch by listening to the background sounds. There is a police imposed curfew in this city, which means people have to be off the streets by midnight. This doesnt mean that people go to bed necessarily- there are many places with lock-ins that look shut from the outside (and the polices eyes) but are a different story inside- but it does mean the streets are generally much quieter after midnight and until about 5am when most Vietnamese awake. They rise this early so they can worship at the temple or pray to their ancestors in the shrine in their house, sweep their porch, move their motorbike, do their exercises and get their daily dose of pho before they have to go to work or begin the daily chores.
I am quite used to the traffic noise now, it is more just a dull hum in the background. What I cant get used to and just cannot stand, is construction noise. It seems to happen constantly. If it isnt the hotel adjoined to ours hammering the wall next to our bed for 8 hours from 6am-4pm (with a small break in the middle of the day for lunch), it will be a building site jack hammering without a break all day; or it will be someone out in the laneway hammering metal at 7am, continuing sporadically at half hour intervals that are just far enough apart to allow you to go back to sleep and then awake you again just as you do. Every day there is construction noise from some direction in the close vicinity to our guesthouse, and has actually been a problem everywhere we have stayed in Vietnam (not sure if it is bad luck or just the norm!).
Where we stay now, there are also regular cat fights in the alleyway, and we often have to fall asleep listening to the horrible, screeching moan and wail of the local tom cats on heat. Then theres the local rooster who clucks and crows all day and begins his cockadoodle-do at the first burst of sunlight about 4am, continuing at regular intervals until dawn and beyond. It all becomes quite musical with the animal sounds and traffic sounds blending together! At least there IS no late-night karaoke sounds to contend with here, as has been the case in some places weve stayed!
But the traffic, animal and construction noise combined doesnt beat the daily wake-up call of Voice of Vietnam. There is a public speaker system set up in this city, with huge megaphones strategically placed in public places- including one giant speaker adjoined to our building. Every morning, sometime between 6:45 and 7:15, music blares and the announcements begin. If I ever meet the man who matches the voice of the 15 minute spiel that ensues, I swear I will punch him! The announcements are in Vietnamese, and are a stark reminder of the fact we are living in a socialist country. Mal reckons his impetus to learn Vietnamese is so he can actually understand the daily announcement. I have heard from those who do know the language that the Voice is telling the locals how to live their daily lives morally. Reminding the women to dress modestly, encouraging people to go home before curfew at night time, advising people to perform their duties to the Vietnamese Government which helps them so .you get the idea. Fairly insane.
The sounds are inescapable though, and at least here I can fit in with my loud booming voice and noisy ways. Here, I can blend in! Its all part of the lifestyle, which I do actually love. Its just that some days- when I am tired and grumpy like today- that the constant noise irks and irritates like an itch that wont go away. And it gives me something to write about too!
On a non-noisy note, there have been some interesting developments teaching-wise. We did some networking with other teachers over xmas and Mal is starting work at another school over the weekend, and I have an interview with RMIT University next Friday which would be an awesome job if I get it!! I have to do a demo lesson and I think I will actually be interviewed for this position, so fingers crossed! We still havent found a house to move into, but are still looking at places most days, so hopefully well find our perfect home to share with Ang soon! Oh, and I caught up with some other TI grads last night, a couple I trained back in August, so the posse of people we know is growing with every day. We might be able to have quite a celebration for NYE if we can get everyone together!
Love to all
Sim xoxoxo
Well Sim just did an entry on the noise here in Hanoi, so I just thought I better throw in my two cents (250 Dong).
The honking is not only a sign of Watch out, Im coming through, but it can also mean:
Hello there!
Wow, listen to my horn! Great hey!
Honk if youre happy!
Honk if youre angry!
and a variety of other meanings. Im sure that a Vietnamese person could quite capably transmit a complex theoretical concept to any of their fellows using nothing but their horn and the movements of their motorbike.
But hey, its not that bad, they are just early risers here, and during the day our room is actually reasonably quiet The neighbours only carry out nuclear testing in the adjoining room on odd days, so its normally okay.
Well I start with a new school tomorrow and have to plan todays lessons so thats all from me. Will write more again soon. In short though, this place imroves by the day as we get our stuff sorted and the ever important first pay day approaches. Then we can start having some real fun.
Peace
Out with the old, in with the new. Time for reflection on the year just gone. New hopes and dreams for the year ahead. Time for change and new beginnings. Resolutions and Promises. I love New Years for all these things that it brings us an opportunity to think about!
New Years Eve is definitely my favourite celebration after my birthday Ive had some crazy NYE parties in recent years and have had some fizzlers but they have all been memorable. I would have been bitterly disappointed if it wasnt a good night of celebrating here in Hanoi, but luckily, despite a lack of thought and planning about the actual night, all worked out to be completely fun. It had a bit of everything- a hasty countdown that came about really suddenly, confetti, balloons, random people, booze, bar hopping, music and an early morning return home. I even managed to spill an entire glass of champaign over a complete stranger when I did a bit of an over-exuberant arm motion and flung his glass all over his shirt!
We started the night quite late as we all had to work til 8pm but began at a foreign-run bar here called R&R Bar where we met up with some expat friends of ours and drank heaps of beers, and is where we saw in the new year- it was all very merry and fun. When it started to die down there we found ourselves at a bar called Half Man Half Noodle (quite appropriate as Mal feels like a noodle today!) and had some cocktails and then we ended up at a terrible bar called Funky Monkey til it closed and we all got booted out.
And today of course we are paying for it, Mal particularly, with nasty hangovers but that must mean it was a good night huh? I know one girl at the bar had a good night when she came into the bar and was walking around asking random men if they had any condoms in their wallet, as she had just had the best snog of her life and wanted to go home with a man she had just hooked-up with....very funny!
I was thinking of all my beautiful friends at Woodford when it was 9pm here I hope it was a fun celebration and that the sunrise on the hill was as peaceful, beautiful and serene as ever. I hope that everyone else had a good celebration wherever you were, and that the new year brings happiness and good fortune, much laughter and plenty of great experienced for you all!!
Who knows what the year will bring .but I hope I can keep my new years resolution to learn as much Vietnamese as possible and to get the Cambodian Charity Photo thing happening
I think these photos say it all with regards to our night last night!
Love to all!!
Sim xo
There is no such thing as a dull moment in Vietnam. Every day, I see something, or speak to someone, that is completely random.
Take for example, sitting in a bus, watching life go by out the window, and passing an army barracks where there is a line of soldiers marching, and carrying a huge rocket launcher over their shoulders and carrying rifles and guns. You wouldnt see that in down-town Brisbane!
Then there is things like a man holding a huge store shop-front sign, at least 2 metres by 2 metres, in the space between him and the handlbars on his motorbike my only concern really was how he could see over or around the sign to know where the hell he was driving (maybe he couldnt, and didnt, which really wouldnt surpise me that much!).
I see so many near-misses in the traffic that they are just becoming boring or I have reached a point of being desensitized to it .it still cracks me up when I see a small Vietnamese woman holding about 50 helium balloons which she is trying to sell while standing on the corner of a busy road, I can just imagine her being blown away and floating up into the sky above there are also men who drive with millions of balloons which they hold while driving a motorbike in some way that I would not even know possible if I didnt see it myself with my own eyes .and then theres the kids who are just sooooo cuuuuute when they are all bundled up in their winter coats and gloves and beanies and look so round and rotund with their little faces pearing out of all the layers, the cutest babies being the ones dressed up in little animal outfits so they look like little mini-human-pigs or cows (I would feel sorry for them if they didnt look so damn cute!)
Probably the dullest part of every day is when I stupidly attempt to watch a movie on tv. They have illegal cable tv channels here people buy cards that they put into their cable tv box and it hooks them up the one in our hotel room links us to Cambodian cable, so all the movies are subtitled in Khmer. Whilst this is better than hooking into a Vietnamese cable channel, as they dub their movies here, it is still not ideal as all that is available on HBO is VERY BAD 80s movies, and the rest of the channels are terrible Asian music channels or sports- no news or geographic/nature documentaries to bring any joy at all! The movies always sucker me in I know it is a bad movie from the opening credits, but they somehow draw me in until the end, when I just groan with the bad Hollywood ending and the fact I just wasted two hours of my life. Movies played recently have included Uncle Buck, Home Alone, Witches of Eastwick and Dantes Peak. I guess these movies were ok in their time, but airing and watching them NOW is another story!
On a different note, I got my first pay!!!!! I am now a multi-million-Dong-airre! It took me at least 5 goes to count out all the small-denomination Dong notes, as I kept losing count at about 10 million Dong it is seriously a wad of cash in my first ever envelope-style pay packet needless to say I was very cautious on the way home and was grateful for my regular xe om driver to take me straight to my doorstep so I didnt have to walk far alone at night. Feels sooooooo good to be paid!! Now I just have to try and keep living a modest lifestyle and not start living it up just because I have the cash to isnt that always the way- living within the means, so as the means increases, so does the lifestyle...?
Well, I hope everyones New Years Day was a little less painful than ours as we writhed through our agonising hangovers, and that the year has gone off with a bang! Cant believe it is 2007!!!
Love to all
Sim xoxox
This is an entry I promised to write, and is all about English teaching here in Vietnam. This info is probably most useful for those of you who are thinking about coming here to teach English it is a rather lengthy entry, so if you dont think this info would be interesting/relevant to you, then you may not want to keep reading!
Basically, English teaching here is an awesome gig. The students are great (as a whole- of course there are shocker classes and terror students, but most classes are just awesome!), the money is great, the standard of living is excellent and the cost of living is low.
THE INDUSTRY
There is an extreme shortage of teachers here. Most of the teachers work in Hanoi or HCM, but there are some small schools in places like Dalat, Nha Trang, Danang and Hoian, although jobs in these places are more scarce. There are more schools and greater opportunities in HCM, however, we have had no difficulty getting work here in Hanoi either. The big franchises- English First, Apollo, Language Link operate out of both cities, and there are too numerous to mention other smaller private language schools, as well as RMIT University and the Hanoi International School for those with teaching degrees, all needing foreign teachers on staff.
The class sizes at the private language schools are very good, my largest class is 18, soon to be split in half, and most classes for me are no more than 12 I think that is quite standard across the board. The schools are all well equipped, some even have computer labs, and there are mostly white boards and tape/CD players as a standard in the classroom.
While there is a huge demand, every school usually asks for their foreign teachers to have a TESOL qualification as a minimum requirement .they love it if you have teaching experience, and will be ecstatic if you have a degree.
THE STUDENTS
There are opportunities to teach all levels and ages. If you like teaching kids, you will be able to find work at any of the schools, but expect to work long days over the weekend, as this is when kids classes are scheduled. If children arent you thing, then there are many General English classes for teens and adults, usually on Mon-Sat evenings when people here finish work. IELTS is HUGE here, and if you have a degree and/or experience with IELTS, this is what you will probably be asked to teach. TOEFL-IBT is also massive. Some schools have arrangements with some of the big corporations to teach Business English. I am teaching staff on-site at Agribank, preparing them for an internship to Australia in March where they will be working with Citibank in Australia. Definitely plenty of interesting teaching opportunities!
Teachers in Vietnam are well-respected and the students overall are dreams to teach! They are studious and hard-working, yet open-minded about the communicative approach and actually welcome it. Little kids can be a bit more like babysitting and being a foreign face in the classroom and require heaps of energy. Teenage classes seem to be the most difficult, as these kids dont particularly want to be there. They learn the grammar that is in their course book at school, and have no interest in doing educational games to give them chances to communicate. All they want to do is watch DVDs or listen to music, and it can be near impossible to interest them in anything. My teens GE class drives me nuts, as does Mals! I feel it is sometimes a bit of a waste of time with them, and I dread the class. Its just so crazy to compare them with my motivated, interesting, funny and attentive IELTS classes! There is always going to be good and bad classes though!
PAY AND HOURS
The pays for English teachers varies from school-to-school and depends somewhat on your qualifications and experience. Most teachers earn between US$15-Us$20 per hour. Most teachers work casually, picking and choosing the number of hours per week, although some schools will expect you to teach a minimum hours per week. A lot of teachers freelance, that is, they work various hours at different schools. The schools dont mind, so long as you show up for the hours youve been rostered and do a good job for them.
Most schools pay monthly, some fortnightly. You may be paid all in Dong, or a combination of US dollars and Dong. The local currency here is used more than the US dollar anyway, and if you need dollars, you can get money changed at jewellery stores/money changers which are everywhere. It is only a problem in that you get paid in cash in a big, fat envelope, and it means getting home safely then hiding the envelope in a safe place once you get home. I havent looked into opening a bank account as it hasnt been necessary with my schools as they pay in cash. I think the schools that pay into bank accounts can help you set one up if you need to.
It would be very possible to live comfortably and teach about 12 hours per week. Most teachers will teach between 15-25 contact hours per week in order to save money. To give you an idea, all you need is about US$150 a week to eat out for every meal, pay your rent, have a big night out and probably have some change left over! Im currently teaching 25 hours a week, tax-free, which means Ill be saving at least US$300 a WEEK, while having a very, very comfortable lifestyle- in fact, Id say more than comfortable! I still pinch myself when I think about the fact I am earning only marginally less than I did in Australia, but am spending an eighth of what I did in Australia on rent, food and bills.
The problem with hours here, is that all the students want classes after work and school, so peak hour for classes is in the evenings from 5pm-9pm. All classes at all schools are scheduled in these time, and also all day over the weekend. There is very little day time work on offer anywhere. Expect to come here and work nights and weekends, with daytimes free. If signing a contract of 25 hours per week, there will usually be two consecutive days off per week with no lessons. I am crazy and cant say no, and am working for three different schools 7 days a week! I dont plan on doing this for the whole time we are here, it is just the way things have worked out for now.
Oh and another thing. There is a tax issue which affects teachers who work at certain schools (the legitimate, bigger schools usually). The law here in Vietnam is that foreigners pay tax of 25% for the first 188 days they work here. After that, they will get the tax back and will only be taxed at 6% (I think that is the lower tax rate!). So it is worth it, if your school taxes, to stay for at least 6 months to get the tax back. That said, not all schools will tax! Mine does not, as I am officially a volunteer, which works fine for me!
THE SCHOOLS` EXPECTATIONS
The expectations the school has depends somewhat on how big it is! At my school, a small family-run private language school, I am free to do whatever I want. I have a very cruisy and relaxed foreign director, the Vietnamese staff are all very lovely and helpful, and whilst it is not amazingly resourced, it suits me fine as I have autonomy over how and what I teach. The students have been giving good feedback to the owner, and she has offered me more classes and it has all worked out really well. Mals schools has slightly different expectations. He is teaching kids at a school where they want him to teach 25 hours per week but he doesnt have to do preparation as such. They tell him the content and he has to just go in an teach it! I personally would find this a bit too stressful, as I like to have resources and handouts and everything prepared, but it suits Mal as he was spending ages on preparation time before, and the school provides heaps of teacher development, so he is learning a lot quite quickly. Other teachers we know who work at the bigger franchises like their schools for the support and the resources and the other teachers there I guess it just depends what you are after. All the schools seems relatively cruisy though, in nature with the Vietnamese culture I guess! I wear a suit to work, as I have adult students and I feel more professional, but my director who teaches kids always wears jeans- there seems to be no dress code for the classroom, its just up to the teacher, so long as you look neat and tidy I think that this is the case for most schools.
I should also make a comment here about choosing the right school. It seems the schools that are run entirely by Vietnamese staff, and which dont have a foreign DoS, are a bit more difficult to deal with than those that have some foreigners in management positions. There are communication difficulties that arise at the schools which are entirely Vietnamese run. If you dont speak the language, its easy to be left out of the loop and this can become frustrating. So maybe consider this when choosing the type of school you want to work at.
VISAS
Once you start working, the schools will happily and easily change your tourist visa into a Business Visa. I dont know any teacher who is working on a Work Visa. To get the Work Visa is a rigmarole, which entails originals of degrees (you must have a degree for this visa), as well as health checks and whatever else. While its not technically legal to work on the Business Visa, nobody seems to care or check on this, the schools seem to have arrangements sorted out and will organise this visa for you when you need it. It is valid for 3 months and can be renewed as many times as necessary. Only problem is, then you are kind of tied or committed to the school who gets you the visa, so be careful with that!
ACCOMMODATION
The majority of teachers I have spoken to have lived in a hotel/guesthouse for a month or so after arriving, while they land on their feet. Mal and I first lived in a hotel and have been in a guest house for the past month. Our room is US $9 a night, has big windows, Cable TV, DVD, stereo, two big beds and a huge bathroom. It has suited its purpose well but I am at the stage now where I want to be able to make a coffee in the morning, make some toast at night when I get home, cook in a kitchen when I feel like it, wash my own clothes, and have a bit more space and privacy. We have been looking for a house to live in for a while, I think we have found a great place which we will sign off on this week. We decided to move out with another friend of ours, and have another couple were friends with arriving in Feb, so this meant we could look for whole houses! Most houses here are tall and narrow, with about 3-4 levels. The house we signed up for is fully furnished and has three bedrooms, two lounge rooms, three bathrooms, a big fully equipped kitchen with an 8 person dining table, two TVs, an entertainment system, leather and wood furniture and a roof top terrace, and it is just US$500 per month! Amazing!
Finding a rental house requires an agent, who will show you places for free and do negotiations with the landlord. Once you sign a lease, the agent gets a commission of one months rent, which is how they make their money. We got names and numbers of agents off other teachers/ex-pats weve met and used their recommendations. It is possible to negotiate on the price (and it is actually considered the norm) so do not accept the first offer the landlord makes. Any house that a foreigner lives in needs to be registered for safety and the landlord pays a bit of a tax to the govt, so we pay more than locals, but still get very good value for money!
Once we move into our house next week, we will have to pay for bills, which are quite cheap, and pay for water, which is again quite cheap. The landlord will pay for our internet but we have to buy a modem. Up until now we have been leaching a free wireless connection from a nearby hotel- we both have our laptops with us, and it has been great to have this regular access for our lesson planning and communication with home. That said, the schools also have internet for staff to use, but I like being able to prep at home where it is peaceful and comfortable.
FINDING A JOB
Its easy!! DONT do what I did and arrive then in a panic send your resume to every school in the city. This is not only un-necessary, but leads to much confusion and demands and pressure from schools. There is a severe shortage of English teachers in Vietnam, so as soon as a school knows youre available and looking for work, they will try and snaffle you up! Its best to talk to other teachers, find out which schools they recommend, which ones have horror stories etc etc. Send your resume to a select few, meet the director, check out the school and its vibe and make your decision from there. If you have no quals and/or no experience, then maybe you cant be as selective, but still dont be in touch with 25 schools like I was! If you have experience and/or quals, you will have absolutely no difficulty in finding work and you can be choosy.
THE LANGUAGE
Vietnamese is easier than a lot of languages due to the fairly similar Roman language script, but it has the bloody tones which make it difficult! Ive found it easy to learn the basics to get by fairly easily, but have reached a plateau in getting any better than that! Starting official lessons soon, but yeah, its easy to get by without much of the language! You dont get stared at here either, which is nice. I guess the Vietnamese are fairly used to foreigners and white faces, so the locals just let you try to blend in! However, do expect to be hassled by cyclo drivers and xe om drivers, basket ladies selling doughnuts and young boys selling books whenever walking through touristic areas. Kind of inevitable part of life here, but the constant hassling as soon as we step out into our Old Quarter street every day is another reason we are keen to move out of the travelers area and into our own place on the outskirts of the centre
of the centre of town.
GETTING AROUND
The way that most people get around when they first get here is xe om, or motorbike taxi. This is cheap and convenient, with most rides around town costing about 10,000 Dong (75 cents). If there are a few of you all needing to get somewhere, it is cheaper and more convenient to take a taxi together. Taxis are also beneficial as they are nice and warm- it is quite chilly here in Hanoi at the moment and on the back of a bike with the wind blowing, it can be quite cold! Now that I have been here for a while, I have a couple of xe om drivers who I use regularly, which makes life even easier, as they know where to take me and charge me a fair price. Before you get a regular, you always have to haggle over the cost of the fair which can be annoying, and we all have stories of being ripped off! A lot of teachers I know progressed from xe oms to riding their own bicycle, and from there, after gaining confidence riding in the traffic, moved on to a motorbike. You can rent a motorbike for between US$40 and US$50 a month with all repairs included as well as roadside assistance in the case of a break down. It is only a matter of time before Mal and I hire a motorbike, as it provides freedom that you dont have otherwise. I am still too scared of the traffic, and have started catching the bus which is very cheap and easy, not to mention really safe! Each bus trip is 3000 Dong (20 cents) and buses leave every 5 minutes and go everywhere around Hanoi. My bus leaves down the road from our guest house and takes me straight to work! Now that I understand the bus map and the routes, I think I will catch more buses!
THE LIFE
Well, read other blog entries to get an idea of this! You may find the entries I wrote titled Sounds of Hanoi and Its an Expats Life if you want to read more about everyday life in general!
But here is a little snapshot. Mal and I went out on Sunday night to a bia hoi where we paid 4000 Dong a beer (btw, it is 16,000 Dong per US$1 exchange rate), and ate a delicious meal which cost 90,000 Dong (Yeah, thats lots of zeroes but is just $US6), had an amazing fresh mango fruit shake (15,000 Dong- less than US$1) then caught a cab home (20,000 Dong). So thats about US$6 each for a whole night out. We do that sort of thing every night and every lunch .and every breakfast .someone washes our clothes for us ..its easy to get transport to anywhere .coffees are strong, delicious and cheap at 10,000 Dong .I went to the hair dresser on the weekend, a boutique expensive one, Toni and Guy in fact I had a cut by senior stylist and colour by senior colour technician and the most amazing head massage then a blowdry and it cost about $60 Australian (at home that would cost well over over $150). That was a complete splurge for me, and the average Vietnamese would go to a little salon on the corner and pay about $5 for a similar less-up-market experience, but it is something I could not afford to do at home but which I can do here without worrying about the consequences on the budget. It is possible to live very luxuriously and like a king or queen doing anything you want! If you want a good quality of life, it doesnt get much better!
ANYTHING ELSE???
So that is about all I can think of to share with you all. If you want to know any more information about Vietnam or teaching here in Hanoi in general, please leave a message on the message board and I will be sure to write another post. You can also email me (I am writing my email like this for anti-spam purposes): simone [dot] samuels [at] gmail [dot] com and I will be happy to help you out!
Hope this is helpful for at least a few of you!
Love and laughter
Sim xoxo
When we last wrote we were English teachers in Hanoi. Since then, well weve well.. actually weve been teaching English In Hanoi. Its been pretty busy for us both due to finding housing, working many hours , uni and having a strict drinking regime. So we havent really explored the city too much yet. Its good though, most nights we check out a different pub or restaurant, so our tastebuds and livers are getting varied workouts.
Ive landed a job at a school for little kids. Its 25 hours per week, with no lesson prep required. The pays sweet too so well be able to save and live really comfortably now.
Apparently on the first day when I came in and waved hello to the staff, they thought I was the White Wiggle.
So I think Im being groomed to do battle with the 4 year old classes as I seem to click with little kids more easily than teens. The first class I did this drawing of a pond and showed it up to the kids and they just stared at me. No matter how many times I jabbed my finger at my fine Metisse rendition and said Pond! Pond! Fucking Pond!, they just kept on looking quietly at this big silly looking teacher yelling and Im sure all they heard was Blah blegh! Blooger! DOG! Blooger Bling! MUMMY!. They are the cutest semi-animate blobs of human cells ever though. They even have big matching earmuffs on cold mornings! Seriously, this class was like out of a movie! There was a little Indian girl with a bindi. One fat girl, one girl who just stared. A kid with a massive forehead who randomly got up and danced and get this a set of fucking twins!!! Wearing the same clothes!! It felt like Kindergarten Cop.
One of the teachers told me that the other day she was teaching and one of the kids just pulled out his doodle (stupid word I know but at that age its a doodle and not a dick)
So yeah its a lot of fun.
Weve also found a place. Its sweeeeeeet and we move in to the house in 7 days.
Things continue to be funny on a random basis. This dude approached me at the lake, stole two of my crayons, and then asked me back to his room for a Thai Massage. About 5 minutes before that, an old prune sold me a pack of gum for 5000d then watched me intently while I changed my socks. All the time she was chatting away in Vietnamese and I was speaking in English and we had no idea what the other was saying, but the conversation seemed to last for about 5 minutes. Also, on our way back from a café, this dude ran up to me and I had a tussle with him for my club sandwich. My reaction was to defend the food, which I did successfully albeit with his thumbprint in the sanga; but in retrospect I think anybody has to be in a desperate way to try to steal food out of someones hands, so he probably needed it way more than me.
Anyways its time for beddies so goodnight all :)
So theres been this really spooky repetitive chanting that we hear occasionally at about midnight. Its just like this humina humina thing with many voices. Then it breaks and they start again a few moments later.
The noise is coming from some construction site (we think its a construction site) in the distance. It looks far away in the movie, but thats cause its crap quality and its actually close enough that we can see the individuals who are all dressed in identical blue uniforms and wearing cone hats, and who only conduct this work at night. So theres many strange elements to it, but yeah, regular midnight intelligible chants by many combined voices within earshot . eerie. Listen for it in the video.
Everything is slowly but surely starting to slide into place
We paid our bond and rent and signed contracts today for our very own house which we will be renting with our friend Angela and Mals friend Joss and his grielfriend Yonna when they arrive here to live in February. But dont worry, five people in this house wont be a squeeze- it is huge! Plush too! I have never lived in such a nice place before!
I feel like we have quite a social network here now- some good mates to go out with for dinner or drinks or whatever, which makes things sociable and fun after work or during the daytimes before work. I have also made friends with some Vietnamese girls, some students of mine, and we have met up a few times. One of my friends, a lovely girl named Hang, took Mal and me to her house for a party with her and her flatmates. The party provided a great insight into the Vietnamese students life. There is about 8 of them who all live in adjoining rooms, in quite basic living conditions. They are really proud of their rooms though, and showed off their rooms to us with a real sense of well pride! About 20 of us all sat on the floor in one of the bigger rooms which was covered with newspaper, and ate a veritable feast of traditional Vietnamese dishes. Then afterwards a convoy of us on motorbikes went cruising to find a karaoke place that was open .whilst the mission proved fruitless, it was fun to go out with some local youths and be shown a good time!
I also received some excellent news this week- my close friend Marie from home is going to move here to Hanoi as soon as she is able to get organized. Between Marie and Mals friends, we will feel like Hanoi truly is a home away from home!
Work is fairly cruisy, getting into the swing of it all completely. The hours make life quite manic, but all my classes are great and now I have a bit of routine happening with my planning of lessons, it is all ok.
Just two more sleeps til we are in our own place. Oh, I have decided I am brave enough to get a motorbike too, so true freedom is about to come! Only problem is that there has been a real cold snap in the past day, and it is FREEZING here at the moment. Very brisk, frosty, foggy and misty! Will need to really rug-up in scarves, beanies and gloves for the motorbike rides!
Will take some pictures of our place when we move in, to share with you all on this site soon.
Love, light, laughter
Sim xo
So weve just moved in to our new crib, and its pretty nice.
Nice enough in fact, to deserve a blog entry
We were guaranteed that at least 15 people died during the construction of the house (a must for any significant structure).
Sims already described the house in her entry, and the photos show what its like, so I dont need to add much in that regard.
Our second day here was crap though. In the morning, I woke to hear lots of voices inside the house. I walked downstairs to find poor Angela in the well I guess its like a foyer/lounge room no.1 (for you plebeians with only one auxiliary living area, we have to number them here) anyway found Angela in the lounge room with the owners (who I thought had left for Poland) and 3 police officers. The police uniforms here are military green and they look the shit. Very intimidating. Im not sure why they were here, but the owner brought around 3 fire extinguishers and some fire safety signs just before the police arrived, so I assume it was part of a safety check. Get this if you are Vietnamese and rent out a place to expats, you must undergo all this rigorous fire safety testing, but if you rent it out to locals, there is no requirement!
Also, we all got locked in or out of the house at some stage (something to do with the 5 stages of locks and doors one needs to confront) we broke a plate and the internet guys didnt understand us when they came, so we are currently without a connection. Im also sick as a dog fighting these new bugs my body isnt used to. Still, if thats all one has to complain about, I think its a pretty good life.
The house is costing us $550 per month, so when Joss and Yonna arrive (yay), we will only be paying $110 per person, per month, which I think is pretty sweet. The funny thing though is we had to sign a separate contract stating the rent was $250 per month. Apparently thats the contract that the owner lodged with the government, and the one that we show police if they ever come knocking. Its so the owner doesnt have to pay as much tax (Houses leased to expats attract a 25% tax).
Well its my birthday today so I am off to do something birthday-ish. Peace all
Talk about extravagant! Never before have I lived in such a mansion as we are now living in- it is just incredible!
So on Saturday we had our big moving day- I wish it was as easy to move house in Australia. We basically just piled all bags (yes, our backpacks are full and we have each had to buy extra bags for all the extra stuff we seem to have accumulated) into a taxi to our house. We are actually living down an alley off a main road- which cars cant fit down- so in typical Vietnamese fashion, we piled our bags onto the back of a motorbike to take them from the main road and down the alley to our house.
The handover of keys was also quite typically Vietnamese in that there was nothing straight forward about it. The landlord and his wife had clearly been drinking in the morning (the dead give away after smelling the booze on their breaths being red, rosy cheeks) and the landlord who speaks limited English insisted on taking us around the entire house, showing us what was in all the cupboards, how all the switches worked, how all the doors and windows opened and pointing out along the way about all the furniture. It took AGES, and all three of us were in hurries to get to work and could hardly bare this painful experience, especially given that the landlord had shown us all this previously in the week when we paid over all our money!
Our first night in the place was lovely. I came home from work and Angela and our friend Quyen had cooked a feast of Vietnamese food, and we had some friends over to enjoy the food and some wine- just lovely! There was no time to enjoy the place on Sunday due to working all day, but was really looking forward to unpacking etc in Monday.
However, on Monday, my only day at the moment to relax, we hardly had a chance to settle in. Angela opened the door when the bell rang at about 8am to find the landlord, closely followed by two uniformed police men! They had come to check the place out and to register us as foreigners living here, but what a site to see the two men in our lounge room on a Monday morning whilst still in our pyjamas. The police here are kinda scary looking as they wear a military style outfit and have the power to do whatever. Although they are also as good as money can buy, and are known for being very corrupt! After this intrusion to our morning, many more followed, with people coming to bring fire extinguishers, to connect the internet and who knows what else! Our first day here was quite a disaster really, with being locked in, being locked out and all sorts of sillyness that I guess comes with being in a new place.
Anyways, we have now been in the place for a few days and are starting to settle in. Its such a ginormous place though, and also has extremely high security, which takes a bit of getting used to! We have a big gate that faces out onto the alley that is locked with a huge padlock, then we have a big, green grill at our front door to unlock, then we have a massive deadlock on the actual door, and all of this has to be locked and unlocked every time we enter or leave the house! Im not sure the locks and security are really all that necessary, it seems like a fairly secure and safe area, but guess they are there for a reason.
So the house itself, as you can see in the photos, has four levels. The entry room, affectionately known as our smoking parlour for when people are over and want to smoke, is equipped with a couch and tv, and is also where motorbikes and bicycles are parked. Then you enter the kitchen, which is massive and fully equipped with everything, including soap dispenser! There is a big, modern fridge and also an 8 person dining table. There is also a bathroom on this floor. We have a long, wide SPIRAL STAIRCASE! Walk up it to the first level which is where we have our lounge room, with cable tv, surround sound speakers, balcony and leather couches. Anges room and bathroom with TWO toilets (well, toilet plus bidet) and shower also reside on this floor. Then the next level is where Mal and I have our room, and where Joss and Yonna will also have their room when they arrive. There is also a bathroom with a BATHTUB in our bathroom. The fourth level has a washing machine and also a rooftop terrace for drying clothes and to sit out on in the sun. It is a mansion! And whilst we initially turned down the offer to hire a maid to clean the place, I think we have decided that the thought of cleaning the floors of a four leveled house, and that cleaning the three bathrooms contained within the levels is a bit much, and that we might have to concede and get a maid in once a week.
The alley which we live on is off a main road, and living in the alley and in this area of the city, makes me feel like I am really in Vietnam. There arent tourists wandering around with their Lonely Planets and English menus in the cafes. Of course, we still get hassled by cyclo and xe om drivers- although the cyclo drivers here look like they are as old as the rusting, barely functional cyclos themselves!
Mal has also hired a motorbike which we took for a spin late at night a few nights ago. It was fun! We are practicing at night time, when there is less traffic on the road- I still have to build my confidence til I am game to take the bike out in traffic, but Mal did great! Having a motorbike makes Hanoi seem so much more accessible and definitely more free, so looking forward to getting the hang of it soon. A few more late night rides are in order
So it is Mals birthday today, the start of Birthday Week. Mals not well, so we have just spent it relaxing our home, which has been lovely. The sun has even come out today for the first time in weeks!
I cant wait to get some time to buy things to make the place really homely, and to get some photos printed to hang on the walls. It is so great having a place to call home to come home to after work! Although I need to remember how to cook- it has been so long since I bought groceries and made meals in a kitchen that I have forgotten everything! Will have to get some of my Vietnamese friends over for some cooking lessons (although I am reluctant to show them the hosue, as by comparison to the average Vietnameses house, this one is very extravagant )
If anyone wants to come for a visit, we have a very comfy couch that you can stay on!
Hope all is well
Love and laughter
Sim xo
It seems there were just a few things left for me to do before I turned 29 yesterday.
Over the weekend, I:
1. ate snails (and didnt get sick)
2. played laser tag (and lost miserably)
3. rode a motorbike in Hanoi traffic on my own (and survived without even so
much as a near miss!)
So first, the snails story. Rice noodles in a flavoursome broth, known as Pho (pronounced like FUR), is an institution here in Vietnam, and specifically Hanoi where this countrys national dish originated. It is a great meal or snack, available from street stalls at any time of day or night- there is never a pho lady too far away. So on Saturday I felt like some pho for lunch before work. I saw a lady on the footpath with her little mobile basket pho stall set up, so I sat down on the little plastic stool (really just designed for a 3 year old to sit on, but which I am now really used to sitting on when eating from street stalls) and awaited my bowl of soupy pho goodness to be served to me. It was too late by the time I sat down and realized this was not your normal pho- this pho was made with snails! The pho lady ladled a whole big spoonful of them into my broth, and looked at me with a really excited smile as she showed me a few extra big snails she had, which she scooped the insides out of and added to my soup- I guess I got some extra big, juicy snails for being a foreigner (probably the first foreigner to ever eat at her stall). And so began my moral dilemma.
My first dilemma was deciding what category of animal snails came under. Would they be classified similarly to fish and crustaceans, in which case, I would be able to justify eating them under my vege-quarian diet? Do they have a face? Do they breathe air? OMG, what to do. Then came the fact there was no way Id be able to NOT eat them anyway, as the pho lady was looking at me expectantly, waiting for some sort of a response that I thought her soup with snails was delicious. There was also a lady sitting next to me watching my every move- she was no-doubt curious about me and insisted on teaching me Vietnamese words while I ate. Then, there was the problem of the fact that even if it was morally ok for me to eat the snails, I was pretty sure I did NOT want to eat the slimy little suckers floating in my bowl. All of this went through my head in about 60 seconds. In the end, I just took a deep breath, and stuffed my face with noodles and broth and at least one snail. I smiled at the pho lady, smiled at the lady next to me, and continued to eat the soup. I kinda had to. And anyway, dont they eat snails in France as a delicacy? And anyway, werent there 5 other locals all sitting around me and the stand slurping away merrily and sucking on their snails with contentedness? They cant be all bad .
I managed to eat most of the bowl, left a few snails hidden among my broth in the bottom of my bowl. I paid my 10,000 VND (60 cents) and wert to work with a belly full of snails. Oh, and how did they taste? Well, kinda slimy, a bit like oysters and mussels, chewy, and I guess they had an earthy taste like mushrooms. They were ok, but dont think Ill be going out of my way to eat them again!
Then there is laser tag. It was a friends birthday, and her boyfriend rounded up a posse to get together and play laser tag. Yep, they have a Vietnamese equivalent of Laser Force, right here in Hanoi! Never having played it before, I was a complete novice, and had no idea what to expect. I never thought I would have so much fun running around in the dark with a lit-up vest with a fake machine gun attached. I hate these kind of violent activities, but this was harmless- I was just shooting lasers, not bullets (this is how I justified it to myself seem to be doing a lot of that this week!). We had enough people for two teams, and we all ran around like maniacs for 20 minutes trying to kill our opponents. It was hot, sweaty work, and I was hopeless at it, but couldnt stop laughing when I was cornered by three of my opponents who were all mercilessly shooting at me! It turns out that Mal is a bit of a Laser Force professional, and he came second in our first game and first by a stack of points in our second one. Too much fun really- all for just $3.50 a game! The fact you can get a cold beer at the bar afterwards made it even better.
And finally, my motorbike story. Sorry mum and dad, I know you arent going to like this, but I have learnt how to ride a motorbike! Bikes are the standard mode of transport here. It is the easiest way of getting around. Everyone rides a motorbike or bicycle, and I just had to get on the band wagon. Mal hired his bike, the Green Machine, a little while ago, and I have been taking it on little practice runs late at night when there is no traffic. It got to the stage where I could handle the bike, and just had to learn to handle the traffic. My opportunity came on Monday when I had some errands to run, and Mal suggested I take the bike in to the city to do them. The timing was right, at lunch time when everyone is at home eating their mums home cooked meals and having their siesta, and the roads are quieter. There is no time like the now with these things, so I took it out, what the heck! I was soooo nervous, the traffic scares me, my hands were sweating and I didnt go over 30 km/ph the whole way. But I got there in one piece with no incidents to speak of- hooray! The ride home was a little easier- until I hit a traffic jam .but I got through that and weaved down the alley to home, and was really quite pleased with myself. I am not scared anymore, and know I can do it, and am now deciding if it is worth it for me to hire a bike of my own or not. The freedom it brings is awesome, it has been so good to have the bike since we moved to our house, there is definitely no going back!
So it has been an eventful week really. I had a good birthday yesterday even though I had to work all day. Mal took me out to a very posh restaurant called Bobby Chinns, where we totally splurged on a three course meal with cocktails. It is really funny though, as we were dining at one of the nicest places in Hanoi, and had to pay on our credit cards as we have not a cent in our wallets til I am paid later today! Hilarious! The food was incredible, and when I went to the toilet I got to pee on rose petals- seriously. Its that kind of exclusive place!
Today I am sick- I have got the flu that Mal has had for the last week, it is gross. Aches, pains, coughing, snot, headache, fever, the whole deal. I guess I was bound to get it, even with taking vitamin c and multi vitamins to try and avoid it been working too hard and my body is now getting me back!
We decided today that we are going to get a maid to come into our house once a week to clean the floors and bathrooms, and to do the dusting. The place is too big and were all too busy to do it ourselves. We really are living the life here!!
This has been a long entry, so I am going to sign off.
Hope all is well,
Sim xoxoxo
Hello everyone!! Thanks to all my beautiful friends and family who posted messages on the message board or who emailed me on my birthday last week! Muchos Appreciated!! I am sorry for being slack with my replies the past week...it`s just that I have been really sick!! On my birthday night, about the same time dessert came (which was this amazing chocolate pudding with sauce and lemmon creme brulee, so rich and dense it made you sweat) I started to get a fever (a different kind of sweat to the too much sugar kind of sweat!), and started to feel aches and pains all over....so Mal drove us home and put me to bed (a rather sad end to such an extravagant night). This case of the flu has really knocked me about- probably due to the fact I have been working despite feeling like utter shite- and even today, day 5 of the wretched flu, I am getting fevers and headaches, and it`s now all gone to my chest so I am coughing a gross pleghmy cough all the time. A picture of health- NOT!! I think the pollution really agravates illness, and while I don`t notice the pollution so much, it is probably quite bad with all the motorbike fumes and the fact that locals burn their rubbish and what-not.
So now the countdown is on, I am hanging out to feel better again- I just don`t feel myself at the moment, all dosed up on various painkillers and cold and flu tablets and couph syrups, plus no energy and not even any appetite. In fact, the things I love the most about life- eating, having a few drinks and drinking coffee- I am in no mood for at the moment. I really MUST be sick huh? So I can`t wait to be healthy again! We`re hanging out for Joss and Yonna to arrive. Word on the street is that they are in Malaysia at the moment, and they arrive on the 10th we think. They will no-doubt make our mansion a hive of activity as there will be five bodies coming and going, and we will have two new people to show around!
Then, there is Tet Holiday. Oh yey! Everyone is hanging out for this holiday so badly. Tet is like our Christmas at home, it means a week off work for most of the country, kids get money and are all hyper about the thought of that, and adults are hyper about the thought of 7 days off work, eating and drinking with their family. All the teachers I know are just hanging out for the time off, most of us are going away for the week, Mal and me included. We fly to Lao on the 13th and will be there until the 21st. It should be loads of fun, and Laos is meant to be super relaxing, with chilled-out people and a very quiet lifestyle. Will be nice to get away from the hustle and bustle of Hanoi and hopefully any lingering lurgies will disappear from both Mal`s and my bodies over this time. Plus, the weather is warm in Laos! Yey!
At least the sun has been shining the past few days, so perhaps Spring is actually on its way. The day times are warmer, but the early mornings and late nights are still cold. I needed some cheering up the other day, so I bought a big bunch of yellow flowers from a basket lady near our house to make the kitchen look nice and happy- bunches of flowers here are ridiculously cheap to buy, and it is nice to have the burst of colour in the dining room. I have also printed heaps of my pictures of Vietnam that I am going to decorate the walls of the house with. Gotta make our house homely afterall!
So it is just one more week until we can get away, it will be great! 9 more sleeps to go!
Stay tuned,
Sim xoxox
Its about blog-update-oclock for me I think. Ive settled in to a pretty steady rhythm with work. The kids know me at the school and I think Im becoming a better teacher each day, which is always A Very Good Thing (curse you A.A Milne, I cant not write it with capitals anymore).
We have the internet at our house now which is sweet. It was interesting trying to have a technical conversation with a non-English speaker about why our connection didnt work at first. Mad gesticulations aside, I really gotta learn the language here as its unreasonable to expect anyone to speak English in their own non-English country.
So I have a helmet and mask for my bike. Check out the photo. I think the look affirms my position under the philosophy Become Invisible in the Group! Tourist Utilising Regional Dress (or B.I.G T.U.R.D for short). For some reason its impossible to wear the face mask and not perform some sort of random kung fu move from time to time. Somehow though beige checks dont quite cut it in the tough stakes.
Vietnam shuts down for Tet, so we fly to Laos in about a week. Excitement plus! All reports are that Laos is the bomb (whoa bad historical pun). Beautiful, super cheap (amazingly somehow even cheaper than Nam), no hassling, and laid back. We are going to Luang Prabang for the majority of the time (Maria well take your advice on the bean bag hangout) and down to Vang Vien to do some tubing.
Our friends Yonna and the hairy man-gorilla of a boyfriend Joss are coming to Hanoi next week too! Joss, well have a carton in the fridge pending your arrival.
Anyways, I got muchos work to do, so Ill sign off for now. Peace all. Thanks heaps for the posts on the message board. We read them all several times!
:)
So I woke up yesterday morning (my day off) at 8:00am to the sound of my phone ringing. After having a garbled and confusing conversation with our landlord, I got the impression there was someone downstairs waiting to be let in Anyways, I went downstairs and there is a random Vietnamese lady standing in our flooded kitchen with Angela. She didnt speak any English, but we assumed she was our new maid So yeah, our kitchen was flooded a few centimetres under .. despite there being no rain, no leaking pipes and nothing turned on . totally random. This lady was trying to tell us something but then she left and we havent seen her since and I have now met our actual maid so I have no idea who that was. Strange start to the day.
The other weird/cool thing was seeing some friends on motorbikes on our way to dinner. We pulled up alongside each other and said hello. Because having 3 motorcycles abreast causes major headaches for other motorists, we had to keep breaking away from each other, so the entire conversation goes like:
**Beep Beep** Ura!! Hey Ura** .break away
Oh hey man! How . break away . are you? .break away
Not . **BEEEP!** .break away bad. How are you? (swerve)
And so on and so forth.
Anyways, peace all.
Simone bought me an Ipod Nano for my birthday! Sorry the photo is so bad but its for your own safety. I tried uploading a clearer image of the device, but anybody who beheld the photo immediately either had their retinas melt out of their eyes or had their head explode, its just That Cool. I know this isnt really in the spirit of a travel blog, but hey its an Ipod and it deserves an entry. Feel free to put something on the message board if you feel like gushing forth your love and newfound respect for me and admitting your own inferiority as an unevolved, non Ipod Nano-owning plebian. If you live in Hanoi, you can feel free to come and behold it. Ive organised a price list below:
Being in the same room as the Ipod Nano (Nano remains hidden) - $10
View of Ipod Nano in mirror reflection (direct viewing causes head to explode) - $20
Smell of Ipod Nano (3 second whiff, 20cm distance from device) - $100
Touch of Ipod Nano (3 seconds. Any more leads to instant death from coolness) - $250
Play a song on the Ipod Nano - (bleeding eardrums included in price) - $1000
So feel free to drop me a line if youre interested.
Peace all
The word Tết Festival is on the tips of everyones lips in Vietnam at the moment. Actually pronounced like the word debt, much like our Christmas, Tết can potentially put the locals into debt too! It is a crazy time of year to be in Vietnam, as Tết is the most important and most popular holiday in Vietnam. It is actually a holiday to celebrate the lunar new year, and whilst it doesnt have religious connotations like our Christmas, there are many other parallels to our biggest holiday is the west.
Planning for Tết starts months before the actual new year celebration which this year falls on 17th Feb (the lunar calendar is followed to see what date new year will fall, and it is different every year). People try to pay off their debts in advance so that they can be debt-free on Tết. Parents buy new clothes for their children so that the children can wear them when Tết arrives. Everything shuts down for about a week over Tết, so everyone has to stock up on supplies as much as possible.
The streets are insane at the moment- completely crowded as people rush here there and everywhere doing last minute preparations. Attendance at school is somewhat lax at the moment, as students are forced to stay home and help spring clean with their family, and even the Vietnamese staff disappear for hours in the middle of the day to do who knows what in preparation for next week! The streets and markets and shops are full of people, as everyone is busy buying food, clothes, and decorations for their house.
In the weeks leading up to Tết, the population of Vietnam grows by over 1 million people, as all the overseas Vietnamese return home to visit their families, as Tết is all about families and most Vietnamese people usually return to their families during this time. Some return to worship at the family altar or visit the graves of their ancestors. Others return to where they grew up. In the days leading up to Tết, if someone lives far away from home, they will try to go home to celebrate it with family.
Ive been learning a lot about the holiday from my students, as this is ALL they can think about, and they manage to steer the topic of conversations back to Tết at every given opportunity. While the streets are super busy now, apparently on the 17th, New Years Day, the streets of Hanoi will be empty, completely void of people and vehicles, which to me seems hard to imagine. The reason is, that the first day of Tết is reserved for the family. Most people will stay at home or leave the city to visit their close relatives in the countryside. Children receive lì xì, or lucky money, from their elders. Of course this makes everyone excited, just as we get excited about Christmas presents at home. Usually, children don their new clothes and give their elders a traditional Tết greeting before receiving the money. Since the Vietnamese believe that the first visitor a family receives in the year sets their fortunes for the entire year, people never enter any house on the first day without being invited first. It can be really bad luck to enter a house uninvited, so people just sit at home and eat and drink for the first few days of the new year to be sure they are not the first to arrive in someones home, and then be blamed for bringing bad fortune to the household!
Just like we put up and decorate a pine tree at Christmas, each family in Vietnam displays a New Year Tree called cây nêu, consisting of a bamboo stick 5 to 6 m long. The top end is usually decorated with many objects, including good luck charms, cards, origami fish, cactus branches, etc. A kumquat tree is also a popular decoration for the living room during Tết. Its many fruits symbolize the fertility and fruitfulness that the family hopes will come in the coming year. In the past few days, I have seen many quat trees being carried on the backs of motorbikes- some of them are so large you cant see the driver and it looks like the tree is driving the motorbike! We actually had to get onto the band wagon ourselves, and last night after we had been out for a few drinks, we saw that there were some quat tree sellers on the corner of our alley. So we decided to go and buy one for our house. We had heaps to select from- apparently the amount of fruit and the shape of the tree is all very important .we ended up choosing what we all think is a beautiful tree.
It was a very random, but very fun night. The men we bought the tree from sat us down after we made the purchase and gave us really strong tea to drink, and then Mal got the motorbike and we made like the locals- he drove the bike home, whilst Ang and I helped to hold the tree on the back of the bike so it didnt fall off. Good thing it was 1am, and nobody was around, although even if it was busy, I am sure nobody would have blinked an eye lid at what we were doing- even though I thought it was hilarious and such a photo moment. Its not everyday that you get to see a tree being carried on a bike down an alleyway at 1am! So now we have a beautiful, huge tree in our entrance room (known as the smoking parlour) and it is great!
Even the non-Vietnamese are excited about Tet, as we get a week off work, and it is kind of hard not to get caught up in the festivities- the excitement is intoxicating and it is exciting to be here now. Our household is also excited about this weekend, as our house is going to double in population! Angelas boyfriend from Australia, Justin, arrives on Sunday for three weeks holiday and Joss and Yonna arrive on Saturday to become new Hanoi residents like us! AND, Mal and I leave for a week in Laos on Tuesday! Yey! Much to be happy about!
One last important thing about Tet- the greeting that should be said to everyone. This basically means Happy New Year, and is written on signs everywhere. So, Chúc mừng năm mới everyone!
It has not been without several hitches, but it seems we are actually about to leave for Lao on the 14th (tomorrow)! Yey! Mal and I booked our tickets back at the start of January, as soon as our schools finalized the dates we would have off over Tet. My last day of teaching before Tet was the 11th, Mals the 13th, so we booked tickets for the 14th. Then, Mals school decided they would start Tet holiday earlier, on the 12th, so we went back to our lovely travel agent and got the tickets changed- free of charge! We were really, really happy about this, as it basically meant we had an extra day and a half in Lao, which is significant when we only have a 7 days as it is.
So we were all ready to depart today .BUT Mals passport is still in Ho Chi Minh City getting his visa renewed. For some reason, Mals school took ages with getting it sorted out my school organized my new visa in about 10 days, and I have had my passport back for weeks, but Mals school is not so organized (or so it seems!). So we had to race around yesterday and talk to our travel agent again, to try and change back the tickets to the original dates and times. To add to the drama though, they originally told us that there were no more seats on that flight, and that we might not be able to get on flights until after Tet, and that if we wanted to go this week we would have to pay an extra $150 each to go with a different airline!!!!
So for a moment there, I was thinking I might be going to Lao on my own, leaving poor old Mal here in Hanoi, or that we might both have to miss out altogether. Quite stressful to say the least. Anyway in the end, our agents made a few phone calls, we paid just $10 each and we got our original seats back! Mals passport is on its way up to Hanoi as I type and it seems we will be finally heading off tomorrow- yey!
In the meantime, Joss and Yonna arrived on the weekend. It is quite interesting to have friends arrive who have not seen any of Vietnam before .its kinda of like a case of not even knowing where to begin with telling them information. It has made me realise that in the past three-and-half months in Vietnam we have learned a lot! The culture, the language, the food, the way of life even just finding our way around. Its also made me realise that we have established quite a network here of friends and that we are secure in our jobs.
It is also interesting, as they are seeing things with fresh eyes, which can be quite refreshing. We went to the bia hoi last night for some beers and it was such a usual experience there for us, but so completely random in all its usualness (if that makes sense?!) For us, we think nothing now of sitting on plastic chairs designed for children, placed on the road in one of the busiest junctions in the Old Quarter, drinking beer that costs 2000 Dong (20 cents), chatting to random travelers, bumping into familiar friends, talking to all the hawkers selling postcards and books, watching all the random things you see in the traffic .for us this is just part of life here, but I am sure that for Joss it was quite an experience (as it was for us when we first arrived!).
In terms of language, we have also come a long way. We even managed to order gas yesterday in Vietnamese! That was another random experience really .our whole household (now doubled in size!) was sitting at the table having breakfast .we had no gas and had to order more .this involved speaking in Vietnamese to the gas company .the operator just kept shouting at us, hoping that if he spoke louder, we might understand him (not that he was trying to understand our bad Vietnamese!) in the end, we called our trusty real estate agent to confirm the order for us .we were still talking about how funny it was and wondering when the gas would arrive when the doorbell rang and it was the gas man, literally 5 minutes after we made the call! Such efficiency is rare in Vietnam!
Finally, I just HAD to take a picture of one of the Tet trees being carried on the back of a motorbike, a scene that has been really common place on the roads the past few days. Its just the funniest thing to see really! It always looks to me like the tree is driving a motorbike, or that it is moving along by its own accord, until the little Vietnamese driver appears as well. The trees sure are pretty, the vibe is getting crazier by the second as everyone rushes around to their bosses houses to bring them good luck new year flowers, and to get stock up on supplies before the shops close for Tet in two days. The traffic is simply insane. The atmosphere is more than frenetic. There is a dull rumble of motorbikes, the racket of horns honking in symphony, and to top it all off, the Voice of Vietnam is blaring over the public address system intermittently all afternoon! It is CRAZY! The streets are jammed with traffic, so it is not even slightly fun to ride, one foot on the ground nearly the whole way. It`s worse than Chermside on Christmas Eve!
Anyways, it will be good to get away from it all tomorrow to the peace and serenity and laid-back atmosphere of Lao.
Hope all is well!
Love and laughter
Sim xoxox
Just a super quick post about a dinner we just came back from. Our Vietnamese friends Ngoc and Thang invited us out with their friends for a pre-Tet dinner and took us to a place to eat fresh shell-fish (caught today and brought to the restuarant especially!). The seafood is one I have never, ever tried or even seen before. It is called Tu Hai and is unique to a specific region of Vietnam. It was like a cross between a clam or mussel and a squid. Most delicious! There was also Nem Chua, a kind of pork roll wrapped like a pass the parcel in banana leaf, which is something eaten at this time of year particularly. Of course I didn`t eat these, but Mal devoured them! Great night, great fun, very privileged to have been invited! Thanks Ngoc and Thang for being great friends!
Just a little addendum to Sims post on dinner last night. Our friend Thang specifically had these shellfish brought in from some remote Island, just for our dinner. They only exist in Vietnam and apparently only one or two people cultivate them. Just thought it deserved an extra mention because he went to a lot of effort. Anyways, I couldnt find any photos of an actual Tu Hai, so heres the closest representation I could find. It made for an interesting dinner. The hardest part was Kraken the shells open.....
Well, we made it safely from Hanoi to Lao....it was a slightly scary flight as it was with Laos Aviation, and the plane was really small, and there was heaps of turbulence, and we were flying really low through mountains, but luckily the flight was just an huor....there was barely enough time for the hostess to throw a sandwich at us and to eat it and we were descending already!
The Lao people have a different way about them to the Vietnamese, and also the Thais and Cambodians. There is a definite demure and serene calm that the people seem to exude in all their interactions. They are not as petite and beautiful physically as the Vietnamese or Thais, but their sense of peace and the big smiles set them apart in other ways. Maybe it is the strong sense of community...or the fact that the Laos haven`t seemed to figure out economies of scale or any real need for entrepenurial activity which makes it just too relaxed for words. Such a welcome break from Vietnam to be sure!
The food here is different too. We ate lunch at an amazing cafe called Tamarind yesterday where we got to eat traditional Lao food. Here the sticky rice is staple to all meals, and you knead the rice with your hand to form a kind of spoon to dip into a variety of different dips and sauces. We had smoked eggplant, tomato salsa-like dip but made with chilli and coriander, there were also lettuce leaves which we wrapped around noodles, lemongrass, lime, chili and some other unique sauces. It was spectacular! It was a magical moment when it started raining a little, and we were sitting under cover eating our platter of food, and the bells on the Wat opposite the cafe started tinkling as the rain hit the bell every-so-lightly...it sounded so pretty and charming as the rain spattered down...and then when it stopped the air smelt so clean and fresh, as it does after rain...and it made me realise just how polluted the air in Hanoi actually is!
We had street food last night which cost us just 5000 Kip (about 50 cents) and we could fill our plate with a vegetarian buffet that was just delicious! Last night I also went a bit crazy shopping at the night market! The market is huge and fills a whole block for about a kilometer, and the local women sell all their wares. I purchased a beautiful bed spread, some new skirts for work, some travelling pants and some lovely bags and purses- it was just so cheap and I couldn`t resist! Plus I only half-filled my backpack so had space to lug it all back to Vietnam....although I now worry about how much stuff I`ll be shipping home to Australia when we leave Hanoi in June!
So far today we have slept, eaten, and strolled- we visisted some Wats and a few working monasteries and visisted the National Museum which is extremely interesting. It is set in the old King and Queen`s Palace and is beautifully decorated but most interesting were the display cabinets of gifts from other countries presented to Lao in the 60s. Austalia gave a boomerang and gold bars decorated in opals (Which Mal reckons look like lamingons or wheatbix) and can you believe the Americans presented a plaque with the Lao flag and some bits of rock from the moon! So typical when compared with beautiful tea sets and paintings from China and Russia!
Anyways we are having a great time, have moved to a new brighter, airy guest house and are looking forward to doing more of the same- eating, sleeping, relaxing. Kinda difficult to do anything but that really!
Love to all
Sim xoxoxox
So we are in Luang Prabang, Laos at the moment. Beautiful town. Chilled and relaxed. Great food, massive bottles of beer and although the tourists here outnumber the locals 5 to 1, its been so quick that I think we`ve gotten in before it slides downhill too far. Not many motorbikes either. Its really clean here too (as far as SE Asian standards go), much cleaner than Hanoi. The locals are friendly and very very cruisy. ALL GOOD. There is a big hill though in the centre of town called... Phousi Hill (pronounced...wait for it... **pussy**)
So today we climbed phousi mountain and visited the phousi temple (or was it a phousi palace?). We checked out of our first guesthouse, and found a nicer one (unfortuantely the Phousi Hotel was full). Later today we`re thinking about going to the "Phousi Massage", apparently it`s pretty nice. Perhaps the locals have been told what phousi means in English though; when we walked past Phousi Massage this morning, someone had taken down the S`s so now it`s just Phoui (pronounced "pooey") Massage
Phousi aside though, this place is so far quite a highlight. We`ll write more when we`ve actually done something.
Spelunking, Petonquing, Masticating, Frollicking and Kayaking .
all in one week-long holiday! One week was definitely not long enough to fully unwind into the Lao lifestyle, although it was great for getting a taste of the relaxed, chilled-out and smiley happy people of Lao. For what was meant to be a relaxing holiday, well, Im not sure we entirely relaxed, although there were many moments of complete chilled-out-ness- which would be impossible not to manage in Lao I reckon!
The last entry we wrote was in Luang Prabang when we were feeling slightly hungover from the nights before shenanigans. We spent another three days in LP, wandering the streets, eating yummy Lao food (which is quite different to that of Vietnam and even Thailand) and shopping at the night market. We also visited an amazing waterfall called the Kiang Si Waterfall which was about a 30km tuk-tuk ride out of town, but completely worth the dusty journey! We shared a ride with two other couples and we were all surprised by the natural beauty of the falls. We soaked in the icy cold lagoon water, which was the most stunning blue colour I have ever seen. We all thought that was amazing, and then walked a bit further up the trail to find tier after tier of amazing waterfalls and lagoons, with a giant waterfall at the very top. Just spectacular and a great afternoon!
That night we also found a great little bar (near the Hive Bar Timo!) called the Lao Lao Garden. Lao Lao is the local rocket fuel, made by fermenting fruit and rice, and this bar made heaps of specialty cocktails made from Lao Lao! They were dirt cheap AND 2-4-1 which meant they cost us about 70 cents each. We had a merry time to say the least! The next day we headed for two days in Vang Vieng, which is just the most amazing little town, and one that I hope to go back to sometime to spend more time there.
The setting is just breathtaking. Huge limestone mountain karsks surround the whole town, and even the bus ride from LP to Vang Vieng was stunning as we drove around and through mountains to get to our destination. We found a guesthouse with a balcony which had views looking out over the river which meanders through the town and out to the beautiful lime stone mountain peaks beyond. We arrived at VV in the afternoon and hired a motorbike for an explore of the mountains. We drove about 7km out of town down dusty, bumpy roads and got to one of the many caves that are interspersed through the mountains. We arrived at a lagoon with a swinging rope where local kids were laughing and playing, and where a group of Lao people were sitting around having a picnic and singing and playing the guitar. Just magical. We climbed up a mountain to get to the cave, and once inside were completely amazed at the huge cavernous interior and the many tunnels to crawl through to get further inside.
Unfortunately we didnt have time to fully explore (or spelunk as they call it!) but it was still super cool! On our way back on the motorbike, we got called into a little place where we got to drink a lovely Laos concoction of Beer Lao, Lao Lao and Pepsi, all poured into a pottery jar filled with dried rice grains. You drink through long straws and I dare say it is quite potent, although we hung around just long enough to have a random conversation with these strange French men before we rode back to town.
Vang Vieng is a bit of an anomaly in that the tourism industry there has just happened really, really quickly, so there are all these guest houses and cafes and bars (mostly foreign run) but the Laotians are still catching up with the growth and learning how to deal with all the travelers! The river separates the town centre from what is known as party island. It is almost like all the foreigners are ushered over to the island side of the river to party, away from the chilled out locals, or maybe it is just the best setting for bars with little alcoves, and bamboo shacks with hammocks and cushions and the like. We indulged in many a beer, cocktail and even had a special shake while we were in Vang Vieng, although things shut at midnight, so despite the raucousness we were able to get to bed early and have active days. We even bumped into one of the other teachers at my school and hung out with him for a few nights. The worst part about party island was crossing the precarious foot bridge to get back to town- even scarier after a few drinks when balance is not the best and there are no railings to hold onto while walking over the rickety bridge!
The most fun of all in Vang Vieng was tubing. This is a big draw card for this little town, and I can only imagine how it is going to take-off big-time in the coming years I wouldnt be surprised if this little town becomes like the next Haad Rin in Koh Pan Ngan in years to come (for better or for worse .). Tubing basically involves being taken to the top of the Nam Song River, and given an old tyre which you then sit in as you float down the river for about 3 kilometers. To make the whole experience just that more exciting, there are makeshift bars set up along the riverbank. Locals will call you in: Cmon, Cmon, Beer Lao, Free Lao Lao, Cmon, Cmon and then they pull you in using a bamboo pole, you hop out of your tyre and sit at the bar for a relaxing drink. Then you can go on a fly wire flying fox type contraption back into the water (if you are game, which I was not!) or jump off ledges into the river. There are about 30 bars set up as you float and we stopped at several. It was so relaxing, the scenery was so amazing, the sun was out and it really was just heaps of fun. There was even one enterprising lady who set up a bar ON the river where she sold beer Laos on-the-go to take with you in your tyre. The whole things takes hours to do and is the best idea ever!
The final fun thing we did in Lao before heading back here to Hanoi was kayaking! We heard that you could kayak down the Mekong from Vang Vieng to Vientiane (the capital), so we decided that instead of catching a bus back up to LP, that we would do this journey instead. We changed our flights to leave from Vientiane and booked ourselves on the kayaking trip leaving the next day. It was good fun- we drove for a bit then kayaked for an hour, went through a low-grade rapid, had a barbeque lunch cooked on the side of the river, jumped off a 7 metre high rock edge (YIKES it was scary but fun!) then kayaked for a couple more hours. It was then another taxi ride for about an hour to arrive at Vientiane, so we didnt actually kayak the whole way, but it was still significant!
Our first impressions of Vientiane were not the best. It probably didnt help that it took us ages, wandering around with our backpacks through the dirty and dusty town trying to find a guest house that wasnt full. We were a bit disappointed that it wasnt as nice here as the other towns we had visited in Lao, but perhaps this made it that much easier to leave and come back to Vietnam The town grew on us later that night when it got dark and it just looked prettier and less grubby and also the next day after we had had a good sleep- we found some nice cafes to eat at, visited the National Museum which was interesting as it reviewed the local history of the country (referring to the Americans and French as the Imperialists!) to present day. We drank a few beers by the Mekong river which is almost completely dry, I had my last spicy Lao green papaya salad which I ate almost every day while there as it was so delicious, and basically chilled until we had to leave for our flight back to Hanoi. Its always funny the last few hours in a country where you have just enough of the local currency to get by- you need to be careful to save enough to get the airport, but also dont want to leave too much of it that you cant spend, or end up spending on silly things. I think we were each down to our last 40,000 Kip ($4) when we left the town- not quite enough for a massage unfortunately!
So my thoughts on Laos? Well, Mal and I had many in-depth conversations which were spurred on by our surrounds, where we discussed the idea we have as westerners of poverty and also happiness. The people of Lao are poor, the majority of people live in rural settings, in basic housing, living quite traditional lives. But there is also the influx of tourism which is affecting things for either the good or the bad. In my observations, the Laotians seem very self sufficient, extremely happy and completely chilled out. I dont think worry is really a word in their vocabulary. The country is quite big with a small, sparce population, the country is wonderful to visit with its wonderful natural environment and for the chilled out nature of the place do we want this to change? It is inevitable I think, the country is on the verge of change at the moment, give it a few more years and backpackers wont bypass Laos as they travel through Thailand, Cambodia and Vietnam. But will this change the place? I didnt see any beggars and only saw a handful of kids trying to sell things (really unpersistently at that) what does this say about a country which is one of the poorest in the world? It was also quite concerning for me to see all the extremely expensive cars being driven around by the expats in Vientiane who work for the NGOs surely a $100,000 4WD Hummer could pay for many, many schools or houses .makes you wonder how fairly money is really dispersed.
I definitely want to return to Lao and explore some more and really relax. We are back in Hanoi now, back home in our lovely house and about to start back at work later today. Things have mostly returned to normal after Tet but many businesses are still closed. The weather is warm, humid, grey, a few showers of rain- apparently this is typical Hanoi Spring weather! It is good to be home, back to familiar Hanoi but not so exciting is the idea of the work routine again
Check out the pictures for more of an idea of what Lao was like!
Love to all
Sim xoxox
When we went tubing in Lao we took a disposable camera to the river with us when we went tubing (for obvious reasons I didn`t want to take my Canon EOS!). So here are some pics of that day to get an idea of what the tubing experience was all about! Relaxing, beautiful, fun and drunkard!
The air is dank. The excitement of Tet has been replaced by the great wet. The temperature is not hot and not cold, but the humidity is high. It makes us wallow as we sweat-out the smallest chore. Water seems to permeate into everywhere and everything. There is rain, some that falls like a light mist, it falls so softly you can barely feel it as it touches the skin. However as it falls consistently, repeatedly, it makes the skin glisten with a shiny layer, makes little droplets of water form on my glasses so it is difficult to see, and fogs them up as I breath out into the heavy air. There are other showers of rain which fall hard and fast, causing festoons of water to form in the gutters. This rain washes away the unclean, the dirt and dust and grime of the city. Then as suddenly as it began, the rain stops, and the steaminess in the air returns. Dirty puddles of water are the evidence of the downpour, sloshy muddy puddles that unless dodged by the motorbike, splash water and mud onto your ankles. Diligent house wives sweep away the muck from their house front, swishing and swooshing the excess water with their straw brooms until it disperses away. It does not take long for the glistening wet roads to dry as the motorbike wheels woosh over the road, and the traffic fumes to combine with the damp air to make the air smell almost mouldy and unclean- until the next, inevitable downpour of course. Clothes hanging on washing lines cannot completely dry, people feel lethargic, walls become mouldy from damp, mosquitoes breed in the puddles and buzz incessantly the moment the dusk settles in, the residue of the rain is felt in the thick humidity that surrounds the air we breath. Its like the veil of grey clouds contain the sticky atmosphere and we are caught in a balloon that stifles and smothers us in a veil of clammy-ness. Rays of sunshine are rare in these spring days, but when they do burst out through the grey clouds they are warm and bright, yet short-lived. In these momentary and sporadic afternoon moments, the birds come out to play and their chirps and tweets can be heard from the trees. Its a good time to take a walk and enjoy the radiance. Yet these days are more conducive to sleep-ins and late breakfasts, drinking tea around the dining table and enjoying idle chit-chat, curling up on the couch, taking afternoon naps and hiding away from the bleakness outside. Productive in other ways to usual, like vampires afraid of the rain, the Hanoi springtime is a mellow time, preparing us for the heat of the summer ahead. Its cathartic to close my eyes at night time, ecapsulated in my harem-like mosquito net cocoon, listening to the rain pitter patter down on the streets outside, the comfort of knowing the next day will be the same as the one just gone and that the mood and the tone of the springtime in this city will continue, as will the cycle of cleansing and regeneration for the streets and its residents. The mood is slightly sombre, but not at all gloomy nor melancholy, I find these time to be inspirational, uplifting and restful, a necessary time to recharge when I otherwise would not.
So now I am even more like a local Hanoian with the rental of my very own motorbike, a sexy little Yamaha Mio (it was never my style to be like everyone else a Honda Wave is sooo passé!) My bike joins our household fleet of vehicles with two motorbikes and two bicycles now residing in our little garage. So now this means I can zip around town and go wherever I want to!
It doesnt come without a few hitches of course. The first is that I find it extremely difficult to move the bike in and out of the house, they are heavy things to wheel in and out and the ramp up the steps is so steep and its kinda difficult to manoeuvre, but I am sure I will get stronger and more used to it! The other hitch is that this is the rainy season and this means daily showers and an afternoon downpour or evening deluge of rain. Whilst motorbikes are an excellent mode of transport in this city, they are not so handy when its bucketing down with rain! Theres puddles, roads are slippery and it usually rains on peak hour when it just leads to congestion when everyone slows down and drives more carefully. I have had to purchase my very own poncho, custom made especially for motorbikes. It has a little hood with a peak and a wide, long front with a clear window so I can drape the front part over the front of my bike and my head lights will still shine through! The back part is also quite large so my passenger on back is also able to be duck for cover and not get wet. Super daggy normally, but everyone wears them and they keep you relatively dry, so fashion doesnt enter into it. I do see some people holding umbrellas in one hand and the handlebars with the other, but I am definitely not skilled enough in my driving yet to get to that stage!
The final hitch in having a motorbike is having to deal with the traffic in an aggressive Hanoi driver kind of way, which means not stopping unless absolutely necessary, driving into on-coming traffic to get into the left lane and getting out of the way of insistent cars honking for their ridiculous right-of-way (I say ridiculous as anyone who chooses to drive a car in this city by choice is crazy if they expect to actually move smoothly through the traffic). Anyway I had my first brush withy idiot drivers last night on my way home when a stoooopid man on a shiny new black vespa just decided to sideswipe me whilst I was stationary and waiting for a break in traffic to turn onto my street. He hit the side of my bike and whacked my leg full-pelt so I now have massive bruise and a nice egg on my left leg. Luckily, this little accident resulted in a stare-off between me and the driver. After I yelped with the shock and pain of the impact, and he shouted Oi Goi Oi! (Oh my god!) we just stared angrily at each other. I was worried he might try and blame me for the nice big scratch his vespa now has on the side of it (Ha ha! Serves him right for hitting me!) but I guess he realised he was in the wrong and probably couldnt be bothered dealing with me, a foreigner. Im all ok, it is just painful still today, but is also a nice reminder of the dangers of the roads here.
It is still fun though and I love finding excuses to go for a drive! Its great having wheels! The only thing I want to achieve now before I leave Hanoi I the innate ability the locals have with their rain poncho use. They have a knack for being able to whip out their ponchos the moment a spatter of rain begins and they have themselves fully covered, as well as their three kids piled behind them, before I have even realised it is raining! If I can master this art before I go I will be a happy girl indeed!
What a great night we had on Sunday and how we paid for it on Monday. Well worth it though! We had a great turn-up from our wide and varied friends here in Hanoi, and drank lots of wine and beer and there were even dodgy Hanoi Vodka (this is not real vodka but a Vietnamese version which smells and tastes like pure ethanol ) shots being downed by the end of the evening! There was more than a small fleet of motorbikes in our lounge and front porch area and our downstairs was full of merry, laughing people. And you couldnt half tell we were mostly all English teachers an impromptu game of Pictionary was started when somebody (was that you Mark??) found a white board marker and started drawing on a pane of glass we have partitioning our kitchen and lounge too much fun! Check out the pics to get an idea of what went on!
Well I`ve been a bit of a lazy bastard with my blog entries, so sorry folks, (specifically Dylan ☺ )
We`ve gotten back from Laos and we`re back in to the swing of things. Now that Tet is over and new classes are starting, our household is getting offers for teaching jobs in various colleges every day. No shit, if you are capable of forming a sentence in English, come to Hanoi and thou shalt be rewarded handsomely.
The weather is shite, but that`s okay. This town manages to maintain its charm in the wet.
I`m really enjoying this whole travel thing. When you`re on the road, every day is different as a matter of course, and even when you`re in the same place for a while you`re presented with challenges every day. Even when you have nothing planned, shit just happens. Like our kitchen flooding . four times. Oh, and the quality of workmanship of our BRAND NEW house. Things are falling apart every day. Bits of floor come off, I discover new cracks in the wall every day, and the most recent thing is that the air vents in the bathrooms bang all night. I was able to pull a fan right out of the wall today leaving a gaping hole in our house. Things are definitely not made to last here .
We had an awesome gathering the other night. You couldn`t half tell that it was an English teacher`s party. Mark started drawing picture games on our partition window, which kept us enthralled for hours. It was whilst enjoying this game immensely that I realised that I have crossed that barely perceptible border in to the world of the uncool. If one has vodka shots though does that make it okay?
I guess travel is a deeply personal and different experience for everyone. Some may be able to extract goodness from every day whilst staying rooted in the one place, and I envy you. For me though, I`m loving the fact that every day brings new stimulus as a result of a new environment. Vietnam is a completely different playing ground to Australia, so even a standard workday brings more rewards than a normal day in Aus. The Vietnamese people I work with are funny, intelligent and sociable, so every hour here is fun.
Um, what else? I`ve started some new maths subjects at uni and bought a new kick ass scientific calculator. I think there is a setting somewhere on it that allows me to launch nuclear missiles.
Well, that`s about all I got to say for now. Peace all.
So I was sitting on my motorbike after work last night in the open air of the school complex, sorting out my poncho (as it was raining) and warming up the engine. All of a sudden, there is this massive splash and I feel a large quantity of water fall on me... At least I thought it was water. Then I looked at my arms, hands, poncho and any exposed part of my motorbike, and realise I am covered in something orange! There was nobody around. No cars/motorbikes or anything moving nearby. Nobody above me. Just Malcolm. And his motorbike. All orange. What the fuck?!
So anyway I had to drive home like this. I already garner enough glances because Im so big compared to the average Vietnamese, but these turned to outright stares. A big orange foreigner with an orange poncho and a sour expression riding an orange motorbike. I could only stare back at them. I still dunno what it was that fell on me or where it came from. It didnt smell bad, and it washed off easily enough. Writing this now I wish I had taken a photo.
Fortunately, orange is my favourite colour so It wasnt that bad .
Random.
Beep-Beep Beep-Beep! I let off these four short bursts of the horn as I approach the blind corner of the narrow Hanoian alley I must drive down as I exit my house. It is Tuesday morning and I am about to head down to Saigon. Well, not literally, but the 40 minute motorbike ride south, out of Hanoi itself, means it may as well be as far away that I have to drive. The trip will take even longer today as it is cold, and rainy, so the usual peak-hour madness will take on a whole new element. Its early, 7:15am, but already I can hear the sounds that lurk on the main road, which indicate the roads are packed with motorbikes, bicycles, cyclos, taxis, and buses, all vying for their share of the limited space. It worries me how many more cars are filling the Hanoi roads with every day- whilst the wide boulevards manage to fit about 6 lanes of motorbikes across, they certainly were not made for cars to have to share as well.
I continue weaving down the alley, skirting around puddles and pot holes- which are numerous, and like the cars, are growing in number every day- and avoid other possible obstructions such as baskets of fruit in a store front and a small child running, arms a-flailing as he leaps across the narrow alley to fetch a ball that is now also in my path. Beep-Beep! Two sounds to warn the kid Im coming through. Beep-Beep! Another two sounds, to tell the bicycle rider in front of me that I am coming past, squeezing between him and the wall that forms the alley.
The alley now ends and I have to turn left onto Doi Can, a busy road at all times of day. The moment this peak hour rush subsides, the school down the road will break for lunch, and the commuters will be replaced by laughing school kids walking and cycling home for their mums home-cooked lunch. Teenagers will double their friends on their bicycles, their handle bars wobbling as they attempt to steady their bike and negotiate the traffic with their mate sitting uncomfortably on the back. Most of the school kids are too young to get on a motorbike just yet, but of course there is always a few who are either of-age or riding illegally, with at least 3, but usually 4 or 5 teens squeezed on the motorbike seat. There will be a small Vietnamese girl driving the bike, her long, shiny black hair blowing in the wind behind her and into her friends faces as they drive. The really small children will wait to be picked up by mum, deftly climbing up on the seat behind her when they spot her, and holding on tight as she whizzes her child home.
But for now, my biggest concern is not the lunchtime traffic but that of the morning peak, and getting out of alley 209 and onto the road. The more I ride, the easier it gets to just drive out into the traffic in the lane to my left as it flows towards me, so I can get out into the right lane. When it is this busy, it is useless waiting for a break in the traffic, it will never come, so I take a deep breath, and pull out into the traffic. It magically just moves around me and I smile wryly to myself as I safely make it into the right lane and continue my drive.
Today, the sky is not raining, but the air is wet. It is not wet enough to don my poncho I consider it, but see none of the locals are wearing theirs, so perhaps the morning mist will clear. Already my glasses are speckled with teeny, tiny droplets of water that make a frosty cover over my lenses and make it difficult for me to see. My hands are icy cold from the brisk wintry-like air and I nestle my chin in my scarf for extra warmth for the ride ahead. The road glistens from the wet sheath that covers it, making it slightly slippery to drive across.
I weave down Doi Can- around basket ladies carrying their heavy wares over their shoulders who cross the road as nimbly as they can while carrying 20 kg of fruit in baskets on either side, balanced deftly on the bamboo pole across their neck; around people walking ever-so-slowly, letting the traffic flow around them as they try to carefully cross the road to the other side; around kids cycling slowly along on their way to school, bag slung over their blue and white uniformed shoulder; around other motorbikes with heavy loads on the back; I slow down as the big truck behind me hoots insistently, warning us all to move-it or be moved; I take an extra wide berth as I pass the big Number 9 bus that could pull out carelessly into the traffic at any time; I swerve slightly when I hear the booming air horn of a car trying to get past us smaller motorists; avoid being clipped by teenage hoons who are weaving ridiculously quick between the smallest space in traffic; and move around a motorbike that is driving towards me, but in my lane, hes driving the wrong way down the right lane, but nobody cares.
I make it to the first hairy intersection, Doi Can and Ngoc Ha, a four-way crossroads without any lights. Beep-Beep Beep-Beep Beep-Beep! This intersection warrants repeated honks as I make my warning that I am coming through, that I deserve right of way over the motorbikes that might try and cut in front of me as I continue driving straight ahead. I move around some bikes that are also trying to drive straight ahead, but at my right angle, and somehow manage to keep moving without even using my brakes once and get through the lane of traffic moving in the opposite direction. God knows how there are not more collisions.
The one road rule here which is actually enforced, and is therefore followed, is stopping at red lights. Im approaching my first set of lights. They are already red, so I join the mass of motorbikes waiting to go. There is a red counter, counting backwards from 60, indicating how long the lights will be before they go green. I can see the smoke fumes from the motorbikes spewing into the dank, cold air. A little kid with chubby cheeks, all wrapped up with beanie and scarf and sitting in a motorbike kiddy chair attached to the front of his dads bike, stares at me with big eyes and I stare back. The counter reads 15, and the Vietnamese are getting impatient. People start to rev their motorbike engines, creating a dull rumble sound which is actually quite awesome to hear when among the throng.
10, 9, 8 the revving continues, louder and more persistently. 7, 6, 5 some people at the front of the pack get sick of waiting and take off before the green light says go. 4, 3, 2, 1 Beep! Beep! Beep! Roar!! The moment the green counter hits 60 people rev their engines in earnest and start to go. The motorbikes in front are honked, as though they need reminding that it is time to go at last! The seething pack of traffic inches forward and in unison peoples left legs lift off the ground and rest on the bikes foot rest as they get into a forward motion and gain enough speed to have balance.
The swerving, the weaving, the stopping, the starting, it continues like this the whole way to the highway. A constant state of full awareness is required. People will annoyingly pull out in front without even looking behind, expecting (perhaps through some unspoken law) the traffic to see them and move out of the way in time. Once on the highway the speed increases, but only marginally. The trucks are bigger, but they can be useful to use as a barrier against side-coming traffic when driving through a four-way intersection without lights or orange lights that are flashing. I see some funny things that make me chuckle. There is a motorbike with baskets strapped to the back, and inside the baskets are about 10 pigs, all squashed in together, and one of the pigs snouts is sticking out through a hole in the baskets weave. Most distressing is seeing some fully-skinned and very stiff looking dogs tied to the back of another motorbike as it whizzes past me .most certainly on their way to a Thit Cho restaurant to be consumed by the carnivorous Vietnamese. I carefully drive around a motorbike which is transporting a huge 2 metre by 2 metre mirror, carefully being held as it is wedged between the driver and passenger, it looks so precarious, but so common-place here at the same time.
Beep Beep! Goes my horn as I drive around a friendship fleet- three bikes riding side by side so the group of friends can talk together as they ride- laughing and chatting, carefree, oblivious to the noise and frenetic movements which surround them and the people trying to move around their line of traffic which consumes the whole lane.
I have an internal chuckle as I wait at one set of red lights, and notice some locals driving onto the footpath rather than wait for the heavy jam of motorbikes to possibly ease. After all, why use the packed, non-moving road when there is perfectly good space on the footpath to use? Once one person decides to take the footpath road, a few others follow suit, so there is now a new lane of traffic driving around a green tea stand with an old man in a beret smoking through a bamboo pipe, and through a pho stall where a lady is sweeping with a straw broom. Two ladies in conical hats standing on the footpath look at the bikes in their path with a momentary glance and continue their gossiping, their faces hidden beneath their pointed hats. A couple are sitting next to me, the woman snuggled cozily into her partners back, hands in his pockets and her chin resting on his shoulder as they chat. This is the closest I see of public displays of affection in this inwardly affectionate country.
Beep Beep! I warn the traffic at my final intersection on this 40 minute journey that I am coming through, I bump over the Giap Bap railway tracks, glide down a small decline, swerve around a huge hole in the road, overtake a man pushing a cart with goods and come to a halt at my destination. Beep Beep! Just one more sound of the horn for good measure, a congratulatory one to myself for making it so far the security man marks my seat with a chalk number, hands me my numbered ticket that coincides, and I find a space to park the Mio. I kick-down the foot pedal, lock the handlebars, unclasp my helmet and wipe the sprinkles of wet off my coat. I hop off the bike, and hear a Hello! then a Beep Beep! I look out to see one of my students also arriving to class for his first journey of the day. I smile at him, and step into class, pocketing my keys, and prepare for the next journey ahead- teaching English class for another day.
As quickly as the warm sunny days turned to cold and rainy ones, the weather has turned again, this time replaced by a temperate warmth and humidity. Its not hot, and should be comfortable, but instead it is just wet and sticky. It is so humid that there is a thick condensation covering everything inside every building in Hanoi. The film of water covers every wall, the floor, the ceiling, doors, tables, window panes. If you run your finger through the precipitate of water, it leaves a snails-tail-like streak behind. Everything feels slippery, especially the spiral stairs in the house which are waxy to walk up and down, with the banister also covered in the grime which makes your hand slide down it sleekly, rather than provide a firm grip as it should.
The dankness and dampness makes everything feel mouldy our clothes which have been hanging outside for days are still washing-machine wet even though it has not rained .the doona cover on the bed feels cold and wet, even though no water has been spilt little droplets of water fall from the fridge door handle onto the floor beneath, adding to the greasy feel of the moist floor the whiteboard at work is covered in such a dewy sheath that the markers wont work the bathroom is in a constant state of someone-just-showered wetness with the mirror all fogged and the walls all dripping with condensation. It is like the walls, the floors, the furniture have sweat oozing from their non-human pores.
The aqueous, sticky and damp air makes everything feel soggy, and if a warm, dry, sunny day doesnt happen soon then surely the whole city will be overtaken by a mouldy, decaying grime that can only be likened to that of a science fiction horror film!
Its Sunday, thank god. I should be able to say that it is the end of my working week, but at the moment my working week has no beginning and no end I am working 7 days! Im a sucker for punishment! Sundays are my most hated day I have a class that starts at 7:15am!!! They are teens!! What is that all about?? After that 2 hours is over I have my one horror class of the week, an insolent teens class, where everything is BORING, even the games! They give me the shits and the 2 hour class is painful for all involved .I wish these Sunday morning lessons were as good as my regular evening IELTS and TOEFL classes, or even my corporate class of Agribank students who are hilarious fun. I think I have an aversion to teens and after teaching adults for the majority of my 30 hours a week, it is such a drag ending it all with the teens class.
The days at the moment involve a routine of waking up late, eating breakfast, then getting ready to work in the afternoon and off to work in the early evening. Working until 9pm every night is conducive to staying up late most evenings the days go quickly with this routine and blur into a week, and the weeks seem to be flying by. Theres only 8 more of these weeks more to go before we will have to make our sad departure from Hanoi! But not before the arrival of some visitors from home! Yey! Mals friends` Lung and Christa are visiting at end of the month, and my good friend Marie is coming in April. Were going to visit some places I have been dying to go to- Halong Bay and Sapa. I`m really looking forward to it! I am also making a visit to Hulong Pagoda this week with one of my classes, its good to have the chance to take these little excursions outside of Hanoi.
I want to make the most of the next few weeks, and definitely want to explore the community around where we live as it is really interesting and very much the real Vietnam. The puddles and rain in the meantime continue to make things mouldy, keep the washing wet and ponchos a necessity when riding on the motorbike!
But for now, I am happy...I have drunk a bottle of Vietnam`s "finest" red, Vang Dalat (V.D. for short) and some cheese, consumed Indian take-away and watched an afternoon of DVDs (purchased for less than $1 on the streets...) AND our maid cleaned the house today so it is sparkling (yes, we have a maid who comes once a week!!) so I am feeling pretty good and have little to seriously complain about!
Thinking of you all,
Sim xoxoxoxoxo
I have a question before I start my ensuing rant .is there any point in trying to control Nature, to try and take hold of something like the wind, or the tides, or the rising and setting of the sun? Of course not, right?! We have learned through time that such a task is futile, so therefore we dont attempt it, and just allow Nature to just do her thing. I mean, we may try and harness the energy of the Earth, but not stop it, right? So for me, it seems absolutely insane that anyone tries to control Hanois traffic and that it is actually someones job to try and do so!
I have written much about the traffic here, mainly because it is just so hectic and chaotic, and like a force unto itself that has such an energy that if it WAS actually used for the good of humankind, it could possibly move whole continents and eject world leaders from power. The traffic moves like a wave in the ocean, ebbing and flowing somewhat erratically and reaching different heights dependant upon the time of day. The traffic is like a jigsaw, with the pieces that come in a box all cut into strange-shaped pieces and that just somehow fit together. There is no rhyme or reason to the way Hanoi traffic works, it just does. There are no laws, or at least not any that are consciously followed, but it all seems to work, its miraculous, and even now that I am part of the traffic, I find it difficult to understand completely.
So back to my blog title. Yep, it is somebodys JOB here to try and control this seething mass of cars, motorbikes, cyclos, bicycles and humanity that either drives, rides or walks among it. I read somewhere that 100 new cars and 452 new motorbikes are registered in Vietnam every day, creating a problem traffic gets stuck at crossroads and intersections this is something that just goes against the constant traffic flow that people are used to. It would be like the moon suddenly being stopped from its regular and constant waxing and waning- how would we feel about that? It would confound and confuse, and would interrupt so many things we are familiar with, and would cause each of us an individual chaos in a dominoes falling-like effect but I digress
This same effect is what would happen if Hanois traffic was in fact made to come to a standstill. This whole problem is confounded by strange occurrences that have been happening of late, such as whole-day-long power cuts that cause traffic lights at really busy intersections to flash orange for the length of the day, while the government replaces underground cables in what I consider to be an over-ambitious pre-summer project. In any event, something needed to be done to ensure the wave of traffic, the ocean of vehicles, is not disrupted. Enter, the Vietnam Traffic Police Force.
I am talking about traffic wardens. Not quite as scary as the army-clothed police men, and with only a portion of the power, the wardens have the unsanctimonious job of controlling a major part of the society here. The wardens also only look about as half as menacing as the police and have just a portion of the prestige. They stand on circular podiums in the centre of busy intersections, looking humorous in many ways. They kind of just appear in the peak times; I never see them arrive at the intersection with their round soap box in hand, upon which they will stand for the next few hours of their shift, but they do at some stage of the morning and late afternoon appear- to begin their futile job.
They will stand, dressed all in beige, with a full-brimmed cap and polished black shoes. They are made to look official-like through red lapels and brocade and important-looking badges, and with golden buttons that glimmer like the evil in their eyes. They have white gloves, and a big baton that they wave around in their efforts to control the tide. They will wave this baton wildly, with their arm flailing in no apparently particular direction, their eyes squinted and face pinched into a stern expression they are using their powers to try and be law-like on these lawless roads occasionally you will see a warden step down from his raised circular stand and pull over an unlicensed teen driver (how do they know THAT particular driver doesnt have a license among all those among the hoards?) or to randomly tell someone off for not wearing a helmet ( I swear to god that my circle of five other friends and I here are the ONLY ones who wear helmets on these roads anyway). Fine shmine, confiscation of motorbike, WHATEVER nothing seems to phase the locals who know that a mere bribe will make everything better.
The locals driving along will often smirk at the wardens as they stand pompously in the centre of the road gesticulating madly at the traffic that just swells around them. The drivers will rebelliously ignore the wardens hand signal to drive the other way around the traffic island his podium has created. People see-through the wardens, its like they barely even exist, even though they stand proudly on their raised stand. The wardens will glare meanly at all around them, while the drivers ignore them whole-heartedly.
I guess the wardens must feel important, and feel that they are making a difference. I personally cant see how, but hey, they must find something worthwhile out of standing in the cold wintry air in the pouring rain with their daggy looking poncho so they can direct the daily traffic on its already bound route to wherever. Why else would they stand there, except if for an arm workout or a lame power trip that nobody takes seriously anyway?
I certainly dont envy the warden as he goes about his daily duty of trying to control the uncontrollable, but I guess somebodys gotta try, right?
On the way home from work the other night I got 13 green lights in a row. I know this sounds stupid, but trust me thats so awesomely kick ass that its indescribable. Every road I turned on to the lights would switch to green. I was Moses parting the Red (light) Sea.
Not much going down on the Malcolm front. A bit stressed about money for the next leg of our journey (wont have enough), work has dropped off (which is good for uni but disastrous for saving cash) and my health is a bit crap at the moment. Plus, last night I fell over at laser force (where you run around in a two level dark room and shoot people with a laser gun, hurt my ankle and grazed my arm. Uni is a beast that seems to take on its own life, and things always seem to come up that prevent me from being able to just sit down and do it peacefully (reasons both external and intrinsic). Its wet and cold, and there are not enough hours in the day to do everything.
But its all good. Things are cyclical. I know it will pick up again soon. This is just a necessary part of the trip where there are many things on our plates that we must do. Besides, hardship is relative and Im lucky to even be able to do uni, or laser tag for that matter. The things in my life that take up a lot of time are social in nature, and again I am fortunate to have friends, so I should consider myself lucky.
In a few months we hit the road again for more adventures. Our awesome friends Lung and Christa are arriving in a few days from Japan, and we have a steady stream of visitors from now until when we leave.
Sorry if this entry is a bit flat, but people have been asking me to put another post up. Its nice to be able to write this stuff down though. Miss you all back at home and look forward to seeing you in September.
For those of you who have made it this far heres a tidbit: There is a slight notion of a breeze in the wind of an idea, whispering about the possibility of us going to China by December/January this year for the 2008 Beijing Olympics. Will keep you posted....
Peace all.
Well, this blog title isnt entirely accurate, as I have learnt many of the following things in the past FEW weeks but every day brings me new knowledge of some description and in some shape and form. If the life of an English teacher in Vietnam wasnt interesting enough, I think the life of an IELTS and TOEFL teacher in Vietnam lends itself to learning even more random tidbits of information. Every day, I have to do listening or reading exercises in class from text books which come from a massive variety of subjects and genres. I have to do all the readings and listen to all the texts myself so that I can teach it to my students, and as a result, I now have an enormous bank of factual (useless?) general knowledge. It is all stored in my short-term memory and I swear that I am bursting with trivia, so much so that I think I could win Trivial Pursuit or be a Phone a Friend in Who Wants to be a Millionaire! For example, I recently learnt that creep is not only the name for a scary, sleazy dude, but is also an engineering term for unsound structures .and I now know how it is that we came have a base 10 numeric system, as opposed to base 2 (which is like binary- more about binary later) or even base 12 (which actually kind of made sense to me) and I also learned today about studies conducted on caged birds that moved from perch to perch and how their genetic makeup relates to migratory birds .yep, lots and lots of really random things .and these examples barely touch the surface.
I also teach a corporate class of middle-aged bankers who are just hilarious to teach. I always look forward to my lessons twice a week with them for the laughter and shenanigans which always seems to take place during our lessons. This weeks lesson was all about Trends and Fashions and I was told that it is currently fashionable in Vietnam to have a foreign husband (from Taiwan or the west), its almost more trendy than an ipod or an Atilla Brand motorbike (which is really saying something!). I also learned about a fad back in the 80s in America where people bought pet rocks from the shop with names and faces drawn on weird. I can only imagine what my students thought about the reading in their book which described this fad- it must confirm just how strange and wasteful with money that we are in the west.
Silly things frequently happen in class which make me chuckle. Last week I was doing a listening practice test with my IELTS students who were certain, without any doubt, that the answer they heard to the question: What items cant spectators to the tennis match bring to the stadium was No Uncle Ho (The much loved and revered former Vietnamese President whose body can now only be seen as wax-like remains in the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum). What my patriotic students SHOULD have heard was actually the phrase No Alcohol .
I am sure I make similar errors (or worse!) during our Vietnamese lessons that have started in earnest twice a week in our home. The lovely Miss Ha comes and teaches the five of us living here, around the comfort of our own kitchen table, which is great. We are still trying to grasp the alphabet and the most basic of vowel sounds, but it is so difficult with accents and tones to try and get your head around. My brain hurts after an hour and a half, but it is fun, and I realise how tough things are for my students learning English.
I enjoy learning little added bits of Vietnamese culture during the lessons. Miss Ha has taught us the word for secret lover (well, she was actually just teaching the different ways to pronounce bo and one of the ways has this meaning). Anyway, it seems that another popular trend in this supposedly ultra-conservative country is to have an extra-marital affair with work colleagues. The secret lovers will slip out in their lunch break to rendevous at a pay-by-the-hour love hotel or Nha Nghi (coincidentally another word we learnt today!) so they can get it on and then go back to work. Even young teenagers might indulge in what these family-run, respectable looking establishments which are everywhere- even (or especially??) in the most affluent of neighbourhoods- will allow to happen behind closed doors. Such scandal and sordidness!
About as scandalous as things get for me these days is the recent receipt of a love-letter email from Malcolm, but not one written in general everyday Roman-script English, but instead one written entirely in binary code. I had to use a binary-code converter (thoughtfully attached as a link at the bottom of all the ones and zeroes message) to copy, paste and convert the numbers to decipherable words. Love in the 21st Century huh? Trend, or Fad, or something that is here to stay do you think?
Love to all
Sim xoxo
Well we didnt get Glastonbury tickets. Bummer. They went on sale at 9am on the first of April and sold out within two hours. The upshot though is that now well probably go to Denmark for Roskilde festival on our way through. More to come.
The lifestyle here kind of lends itself to working really hard, which then always, inevitably (wherever you are!), seems to lend itself to playing hard too! It has been a particularly long and arduous month just gone, where I have worked 38 teaching hours a week (which means that with preparation time, I have been working about 50 hours a week!) and this makes the days blur by one into the other work, eat, sleep, eat, work, play, sleep, eat, work . If it wasnt for the odd play day in that cycle, it would not only be less than ok, but also terribly robotic, so I have been pushing through the day-long hangovers after a night of drinking Hanoi Bia (completed with some shots of Hanoi Vodka) and then getting through my 5 hours of classes on limited sleep for the sake of having a life and my sanity. The regular inclusion in the week lately has been Chess Night with our friends Mark and Kate. Can I just say here that I dont play chess, but that I attend all these nerdy nights for the piss-up that seems to occur prior, during and then after a few games of chess are played it is going to become a more inclusive games night next Tuesday night, although whether that changes the amount of beer drunk or not is yet to be seen
The last couple of days were particularly rough after a particularly crazy period of work, eat and play which was accentuated by the first in a string of friends-from-home arrivals! Mals good friends Lung and Krista who were here for a mere, too
-short-for-words two nights and one day on their way home to Oz after teaching for a year in Japan. These two lovely souls led our whole household astray on our conventionally low-key Saturday nights (because we all have to work at 7am on Sundays for the whole day) into a mad-capped night of bia hoi, dinner and then clubbing, resulting in a crazy motorbike ride home with as many of the household and its guests stuffed on the back of Mals and my motorbikes for a hilarious ride home through the empty streets of Hanoi, before more shots of vodka and then two hours sleep before starting work the next day needless to say, I think I was still drunk for my first class of the day, the two hour teens class is normally horrific but went by so quickly I could not believe it was over (but then I nearly died when I realized I had another two hour class to go straight after!)! It was fun showing Lung and Krista around for the short time they were here and it made me realise how fun the next two months that were here are going to be, as we have other people arriving who will stay with us and need some tour guidance and to be shown a good time!
So I decided to totally spoil myself today and splurge a little as it was pay-day on the weekend and I was feeling particularly flush and in need of a treat and I figured I should make the most of the lifestyle while I am here so I went to the beauty salon for four hours and got a massage, a facial, a hair treatment, hair blow-dry and straighten and a pedicure I was totally pampered and I felt so chilled and relaxed afterwards, like a million dollars (but in fact, the whole afternoon cost just $30!! Boys reading this, that is cheap for what I got, believe me!!). I have now decided a once-a-week massage is now in order (at least!) for every week that we are here before we go!
The only bummer this week was NOT getting Glastonbury tickets (along with the other 250,000 people who also missed out despite concerted efforts). It kinda changes everything for us, as we had planned everything around going but weve decided that well get tickets to the still-available Roskilde Festival in Norway instead, so that will make up for it and it will be equally, if not more, amazing anyway.
It wont make a difference to most of our readers, but were stoked, as pictures have returned to our blog after months of absence for all Vietnam readers (that includes us!). So as a tribute to our new-found blog photos, I have attached some from the weekend when I played tourist with Lung and Krista while they were here.
Love to all
Sim xoxox
No uber cool travel stories in this post from me folks, just wanted to give Getjealous.com a big thumbs up. They sorted out an issue with photos on our blog as fast as possible and were really helpful. I know this is stupid putting a thanks on our blog, but good service deserves recognition.
Also, excitement plus! I won a Flaresafe device from submitting a fire safety tip. This things a beast. Its a torch/ smoke detector/ personal alarm and the coolest part is that you twist and pop the top to turn on the smoke detector. It beeps once to say its armed. Its like a futuristic grenade. And the personal alarm is really loud and obnoxious too which is a lot of fun.
Okay I have muchos uni work to do so Im signing off for now. Bye all.
Another shameless plug folks! I won something too this week! A great little guide book called To Asia With Love which was sent to me for contributing some stories and pictures to the ThingsAsian website (a site written by and for travellers in Asia).
If you want to see the stuff I have contributed to the Vietnam section of the site thus far, then follow these links...
A Photo Essay: An Afternoon in the Alley
http://www.thingsasian.com/stories-photos/22145
Conical Hats- A Photo Essay
http://www.thingsasian.com/stories-photos/22384
Hanois Temple of Literature
http://www.thingsasian.com/stories-photos/21905
Beep Beep!
http://www.thingsasian.com/stories-photos/21903
Love to all
Sim xo
It has been a rather hectic past week of burning the candle at both ends (doesn`t sound like me, does it?!) with work, then going out and seeing friends, staying out until very late and then either arising for a Vietnamese lesson or being arisen by the endless noise that always seems to wake me on the rare opportunities that I have to sleep in. Oh well.
So a distinct lack of tiredness (read, exhaustion!) from all the fun and frivolity and working late and lots seems to make regular things seem funny or stranger than they normally would with enough sleep and rest.
I had an odd day yesterday that began with construction sounds banging/cutting/hammering in the adjacent house that were so loud I thought they were demolishing OUR house! I then grumpily went to work to teach a private IELTS student who I have, and when I walked into our classroom, my student Hanh was wearing the traditional Vietnamese dress, the Ao Dai (pronounced OW ZAI). It is unusual to see Hanoian women wearing this beautiful attire, as it is not really worn here as much as it is in Saigon...so I was quite surprised to see her looking so demure and dressed-up just for our lesson.
Then Hanh pulls out an Ao Dai for me to wear! As we only have a couple of lessons left before she takes the IELTS test, she decided to surprise me with this gift. She hired it especially so she could show me the ways of putting on, and wearing the dress. She was so happy that "the largest size at the store" fit me and said that it made me look "more beautiful" as it showed my figure.
This dress is actually very revealing and to me has always seemed an anomoly. The Vietnamese are very conservative when it comes to their attire, the women don`t often show their shoulders or legs too much, and when it comes to customs such as marriage they are ultra-traditional about no sex before marriage etc. So it seems almost mean that the petite, slim-figured women are allowed to wear the ao dai as it is totally see-through, so men can easily see their bra and the skin of their arms through the fine silk material, and it has slits down the side to show the bare waist, as well as figure-hugging pants to show trim and taught bottoms and legs. It`s an extremely revealing and alluring traditional dress for a country that actually frowns against such things regularly! Check out this website to learn more about the ao dai if it interests you (it`s in English and is rather amusing!)
http://www.aodaivinh.com/
So I got to wear a black and pink sequined ao dai for the lesson with my student. I had to sit in a special way and ensure I didn`t sit on the material incorrectly and I actually felt a bit uncomfortable, but it was a very sweet gesture and I feel privileged to have been treated to this little cultural lesson. The pictures Hanh took on her camera are not the best quality, but you get the idea!
Oh and to top off my strange day yesterday I went to a quiz night with some friends, and whilst we came second last in the trivia, I won the lucky door prize of a $10 food and drink voucher so it has been a lucky week for Mal and I!
Love to all
Sim xo
Today is the most glorious Hanoi day we have had since we got here! I can see blue sky, and the sun, really, for the first time in 4 months of living in this city! You don`t realise how much you miss it until you don`t have it for a while...
Mal commented today that Hanoi is a different city when the sun is shining. It is a very true comment. It seems prettier, it comes alive, it is happy, people are more chilled than ever, the green trees in the boulevards seem brighter and it is just nicer really! In the grey, rainy weather Hanoi is still a good city, but it has a distinctly different feel. When the sun is out you want to enjoy and appreciate it, join the locals in a game of badminton in Lennin Park and stroll the streets with an umbrella and wear an ao dai by the lake...or maybe that is just me??
I guess part of the reason Hanoi has so many faces to her is that she is a traditional city that is slowly being modernised...whilst there is no McDonalds in all of Vietnam (Yahooo!) the incursion of KFC could not be stopped and one recently opened here in Hanoi. Its understandable though considering Uncle Ho and Colonel Sanders are the same person. Today, I passed the auditions for Vietnam Idol. I guess there are some things that even a traditional city can`t fight! Although it makes sense that Idol has come to these shores...every Vietnamese person seems to love to sing and they all think they are superstars at karaoke...
It is just two more sleeps til Marie arrives from Australia, very excited! Marie, it looks like the weather will be treating you to some glorious days in Hanoi...
Love to all
Sim xo
This has been another week that has gone by in a flash, and has been also quite eventful too! Marie arrived on Monday, and since then I have been showing her around Hanoi and teaching her the ropes of lif here. It has been so fun going around and playing tourist for a change. It is strange that since I have been living and working here in Hanoi that I haven`t done any of the sightseeing, touristy things. But now that I have just 7 weeks left here, and now that Marie is here, I have the perfect excuse to get out and about. To top it all off, the weather has been simply fantastic, glorious by Hanoi standards with warmth and sunshine and happiness. Woot!
A run-down of this week`s happenings where I have been showing Marie Simone`s Hanoi...
Helping Marie to cross the crazy road to go and explore local cafes, taking Marie to eat her first bowl of Hanoi Pho, taking lovely walks in the sunshine around the Hoan Kiem Lake, afternoon beer at the local bia hoi, shopping!, Pictionary at our friend`s Mark and Kate`s house where we rode home on the empty 3am streets, taking crazy motorbike rides from home to the Old Quarter with Marie pillioning and squealing and laughing hysterically with fear all the way, yummy coffees at Puku, more bowls of pho, lunch at Bia Minh, an amazing foot massage that was heavenly, more shopping!, quiz night at Finnegans (we didn`t lose!!), and there was even a night-in where the whole household ate so much Indian we thought we would explode...
All of that was crammed between working, taking Vietnamese lessons and sleeping...
It is so good having a friend here, having good weather and to be able to fill the days with much fun...I have no idea what I have been filling my daytimes with up until now...
Check out the pictures for more of the story!
Sim xoxoxoxo
Through some crazy twist of fate and a little bit of Malcolm`s good luck, we managed to miraculously get our hands on some Glastonbury tickets today when the second round of tickets went on sale!!! So crazy!!! So excited!! Not getting tickets on the 1st April was a real dampener for us, as we had planned everything around getting to the festival in June in the UK, but now all despondancy about missing out has lifted and I am going to live out one of my longest and greatest music fan dreams! Yahooooo!!! It was all thanks to Mal`s persistance with the phone line, the great Skype-out service and Mal`s mouse button which he hit over 300 times in an hour doing a redial! Guess it was meant to be afterall. Woot!!
I think that one of the reasons that time flies so quickly here is that the days and weeks are so jam-packed, and there is never any time to even think about being bored! I work every day, either in the afternoon and/or the evening, and on Sundays I have to work in the morning. By the end of my lessons on Sunday morning, I am usually ready to just let-loose the week gone, kinda like a Friday afternoon feeling. This Sunday was no exception...Marie was at my work, as she is going to start teaching there in another week, so she had been observing some lessons. So I took her on the motorbike into the Old Quarter and we met Mal for a lunch on the balcony at Ladybird, a favourite old haunt, where we could enjoy some good, cheap food and bask in the sunshine while watching the Old Quarter chaos unfold below us.
After lunch, Marie and I went to do some shopping! Marie wanted to buy some silk dressing gowns, so I haggled down in Vietnamese a good price, and Marie went to pay, and she realised she had no money on her! I had a little money on me, but between us, we could barely scrape together $10! That`s the problem with the Dong, you think you have soooo much money on you when you have a wad of 50s but in actual fact it is not much at all. So we whizzed back home and grabbed cash and headed back into town. Marie got her gowns, and then I went into a boutique I have admired only through the window since getting here...I decided the time had come to enter, so in I went and boy am I glad I haven`t been in before as I think I would be broke by now. Everything was so cute and so lovely, designer, handmade clothes in lovely fabrics and actually IN MY SIZE! The frustrating thing about shopping here in Vietnam is never having anything in my Western-sized body size. Whilst I am not a large girl, I am tall and broad shouldered, big busted, long legged, so things NEVER fit. I often see lovely things at an even lovelier price, and get disappointed when an XL doesn`t even get over my head! So this boutique was a suprise. Everything I tried on just fit so snuggly. So I ended up purchasing some funky new pants and a bright, summery Vietnam style blouse and I feel like a new woman all decked out in new threads. Yey Yey!
After this little venture, we wandered around more of the shops on Silk Street where everything is bright, colourful, pretty, delicate, desirable and purchasable...we had to hold back. We then went and met Ang and Mal to go and see the water puppets show. This is something I have wanted to do since arriving and have never gotten around to it. We grabbed a quick bowl of pho at a little stand and with bellies full, we saw the show. It was really quite amusing to watch the show, which basically entailed seeing funny looking wooden puppets emerge from a body of water that was the stage, and do humorous things, with traditional Vietnamese music playing which co-ordinated with the storyline which was being narrated in Vietnamese. It was fairly slapstick, in fitting with Vietnamese humour, and whilst I could only understand a few words of the story,it was easy enough to get the gist of what was going on. It helped that the program listed the names of each of the skits, some of which included: On a buffalo with a flute, Catching Frogs, Harvest Festival: triumphant return of a new graduate to his native village aim at expressing his gratitude to the ancestors...See the movies I have uploaded for more of an idea!
The little puppet performances really did depict these scenes, and involved water splashing and even some fireworks to liven things up! It is quite amazing to think that the puppeteers actually stand in water up to their waist to conduct the performance with the puppets. They move so lifelike and it must take a lot of skill to do.
After the puppets, we left the theatre and wandered through the weekend night markets which go through about four bocks in the Old Quarter, closing off the road to cars and allowing millions of people to squeeze in together on foot. It is quite pushy, with people doing anything to to get a bargain at one of the stalls. Mostly for sale is cheap clothing, trinkets and a few handicrafts, and the market attracts mostly Vietnamese who I think turn it into a social gathering as much as a shopping outing!
After all that hustle and bustle I was ready for a beer, so we got back on the bike and went to the bia hoi junction for a glass of the good stuff- 200 Dong a glass, icy cold fresh ale. On the way, I had a wee collission with a cyclo driver who I think misjudged the space in the narrow alley. I could see it all happening in slow motion- bike to my right, woman in front of me, cyclo coming towards me, yikes...brain too slow to figure out what evasive action to take and the cyclo hit my side, but we all came out unscathed and uninjured. Once we go to the bia hoi I was definitely ready for a beer! We got chatting to another traveller for a while and then moved on to a bar I frequent called Red Maos. Bumped into some friends, had a couple of beers and then went to a nightclub called Dragonfly for Ladies night 20,000 Dong cocktails. I think by the end of the night, Marie and I had consumed every cocktail on the list between us. It was a really humourous night with banter happening between us and the bar staff, my Irish friend Ronan and some other randoms we met, including a Sierre Leone soccer coach who lives in Sweden but is now here coaching some Vietnamese players!
It was another semi-drunken motorbike ride home in the deserted streets of Hanoi at 3am...seem to be doing that a lot lately! A jam-packed day and a really fun night...and I didn`t even get a hangover!!
What better way to spend a hot, clear, sunny day than in a paddle swan, on West Lake (Hay To) with pastries and fruit and a bottle of wine, and my lover? Mal has wanted to show me the delights of paddle swanning (or trample boat in a dodgy Vietnamese translation) for ages, so we booked a rare day when we were both free in our diaries to enjoy each other`s company on a boat that is swan shaped and which required manual pedaling to move.
We got sunburnt, Mal broke the pedal on his side, we got hot and sweaty as our convertible roof kept going up, but it was very fun going out on the beautiful lake, to enjoy the sunshine and each other`s company, drink a bottle of Vietnam`s finest red wine, Vang Dalat, and to make out like teenagers where we could not be seen :-)
It all was made complete with a delicious bowl of 3-scoop ice cream sundae after we got off the swan!
Tonight we had a HUGE summer storm with torrential rain and thunder and lightning. I had to ride my motorbike home through half metre deep water and I was scared. I wished I was back in my paddle swan, and felt more like a drowned duck by the time I got home.
Love to all
Sim xoxo
After spending the two nights and two days here in Sapa in the mountains of northern Vietnam, I am still trying to figure the place out. It is an anomoly! All around there is beautiful scenery- there is a shroud of cloud and mist that fills the air and hides a spectacular mountain, which is only revealed at intermittent moments throughout the day. When it does appear, albeit briefly, the scene is stunning! A lush green valley with rice terraces and vegetable plots and a the peak of the highest mountain in Vietnam.
Through the small town itself, there are minority girls and women all dressed in their traditional garb, desperately trying to sell their handicrafts and wares. Many of the young girls speak impeccable English, and they use their conversation skills to get your vital statictics- name, age, origin, marital status, familial ranking, occupation- and then latch on to you in a plea to "buy something from me". Some of the older women are quite pushy, practically smothering your face in a hand stitched and embroidered blanket. Whenever you buy one thing fromone girl, you will very promptly be surrounded by 20 others all crying out to also buy from them...they have guilt trips down pat. I am a soft touch and have bought many things from many people that have be-friended me. I figure I am helping people who are much, much poorer than me and deserve the dollars for their efforts.
We went on a trek yesterday through two villages and again were treated to some stunning scenes but also some sad moments in the villages where the life seems difficult yet there are contsant smiles from the villagers. By the end of the mostly downhill trek, my bad, cranky knees were killing me, and we treated ourselves to a foot massage performed deftly by a young local girl who was trained in Hanoi and has come back to Sapa to earn money masaging tourists. The tourism industry seems to be vital npt just for the many minorities which live here harmoniously, but also for the local Vitenamese.
We have done lost of gastronomic exploration while here too. Drunk heaps of coffee, eaten some dekicious French pastries, some yummy local dishes such as satay garlic pumpkin and fish in banana leaf- both delicious- and have enjoyed the local grown fruits and a Sapa take on muesli which had no cereals but lots of pumpkin seeds and dried bananas instead (and homemade yoghurt too!)
Our hotel room has the moest beautiful view of the mountain. Yesterday morning I awoke to the whole mountain out the window before me and this morning it was just thick cloud- yuo would never even know that mountain was there if you hadn`t seen it the day before.
Last night was random, and this is where the anomolies start to arise. Two of the girls we had been spekaing to for many hours yesterday came running over to us, and were almost unrecognisable. The Hmong tunic, skirt, leggings, belts and jewellery had been replaced by blue jeans, pink jumpers, different trendy jewellery and plastic hairclips. I think they may have also had on makeup! They took us to the nightclub in Sapa where we watched live minority dancing with their friends (who still wore minority clothes) and at the end of the show, they all got up and started dancing together under a disco light with techno music playing! It was really bizarre...Marie joined them for a boogie (my knees were too rickety to move and join them) and then we all felt tired after a while so left and said goodbye. They were all heading back to the house they stay in in town to be ready for the big Saturday market and have a good night sleep. One of the Hmong girls was only 18 with her first baby tied to her back the whole night we were in the club!
I hate to think that the minorities are the tourist attraction here...and it is terrible that it is better for them to not go to school and to instead come into town and sell wares to the tourists...that they can speak more English than they can Vietnamese and that most can`t read or write in any language...but they do seem happy and despite the difficult existence I am sure they etch out that at the end of the day they and doing what they have to do to survuive just like everyone.
I can`t upload any pictures at the moment, but will do when I get back to Hanoi. There are some beautiful portraits and scenery that I look forwward to sharing.
We are on the night train back to Hanoi tonight and then on to Halong Bay for two days.
Love to all
Sim xoxoxox
No sooner did Marie and I arrive back in Hanoi on the overnight train from Sapa, and we were off again on another trip! It was 6am when we disembarked the train, and a little disoriented as we made our way to the exit, into a cab and back home to Doi Can Street for a quick shower and a re-pack. At 8am we were in a dodgy taxi trying to make our way into the Old Quarter...was sooo frustrated with the driver who took us for a figurative as well as a literal ride. We got there in the end though....
The weather was grey, cold and rainy- not exactly dream weather for a trip to Halong Bay, but that is where we were heading to, despite the downpour.
The ride from Hanoi to Halong in the bus was fairly uneventful. The roads were busy, as this was also a Vietnam holiday period, and the highway was not exactly the most charming or beautiful- or maybe I have just seen more than my fair share of rice paddie fields and Vietnam-style housing estates-....however, it was functional and after three hours we arrived at Halong City. The rain decided to really pick up at the precise moment we hopped out of the mini bus...then our (we were to soon find out) incompetent tour guide Son went and ran off on us, leaving us to stand in the rain for "two minutes". About ten minutes later Marie and I got separated from the group we`d arrived with and got shunted off with another guide named Huen to join his group, which turned out to be his entire family!
I was not expecting too much on this tour- afterall, it was a packaged tour, it cost just $49 for two nights, three days including accommodation and food, and it was more of a convenience than anything- but being stuck on a boat with an entire Vietnamese family including granny, aged 72, 5 kids from 6 years old to 12 years old and a bunch of cousins and other distant relatives to the tour guide was not really my idea of a holiday!
We continued to grin and bear it as we were forced to clamber over about 20 boats all moored at the port, and then wait for about 2 hours while our captain cleared us all through the customs procedure. Oh yeah, it was still raining.
Determined to remain as positive as possible though, we got a cold beer and sat back to relax. Nobody in the tour guide`s family even bothered to make us feel comfortable- and really, we were made to feel like we were intruding, which I guess we were- and we thought the next two days were going to be a disaster!
It all turned out to be okay though. Our room on the boat was nice, the food was good, and we kinda got a Vietnamese homestay experience, when 72 year old granny came and sat next to us. My limited Vietnamese and her non-existent English didn`t loan itself to much more than a conversation of smiles, but granny was a ray of warmth among the rest of the chain smoking card-playing adults we were sharing the boat with. Don`t get me wrong, I love Vietnamese people, but Marie and I had just spent the last week together and were both craving some new conversation, and we somehow got stuck on a boat with the most unfriendliest Vietnemse people I have encountered in my past 7 months here! Oh and did I mention there were FIVE screaming children on-board! This was not how we`d imagined the trip to be...we thought we could at least talk to some other people on board!
We eventually left port, then went out into Halong Bay itself which really was quite beautiful, even in the rain. The karsts seem to just jut out of the water, and so randomly that it seems unreal. Local fishermen just ride on by, seemingly oblivious to the beauty that surrounds them every day. The formations within the formations seem vast, especially when contrasted with a boat that float just in front, and we got to see the fishing villages where locals can live relatively rent-free on little pontoons that float at various places in the Bay. The whole region seems vast and huge, and despite there being a million junks like ours in the Bay were were all able to share the space so it didn`t seem even slightly crowded even though there would easily have been a few hundred boats in the same space. See the pictures I`ve attached to get my gist!
We enjoyed a seafood lunch, then moored near a giant cave which we explored and then we got dumped on a beach which would have to be one of the grubbiest I have seen. Not suprising given that we witnessed one of the ladies on our boat blatantly throw a paddle-pop stick into the Bay when there was a bin right there which she could have thrown it into. So sad. The cave was a majorly over-touristic attraction, and we had to use our own imaginations to see the various things you`re supposed to see in the stalagmites and stalagtites as our guide had run off with his family`s kids instead of explaining it to us...no bother, we just joined another group`s guided tour! There was one rather obvious formation however, which you can see in the pictures I`ve attached. Gotta love the Vietnamese sense of humour.
We were sad that we missed out on kayaking- because the FAMILY didn`t want to go- so we got our hands on a bottle of Vietnam`s finest Vang Dalat red wine from a lady who rowed over to us in her mobile boat shop, and after dinner we indulged ourselves on the boat`s top deck. We actually had to smuggle the wine on board as otherwise we were liable for a huge corkage fee which was more than the value of the wine itself! The boat`s bar was exhorbitantly priced, but at least it had a bar with cold beer to keep us sane!
The rainy weather started to clear up in the late afternoon and we enjoyed a really pretty sunset, so things weren`t so bad. Although we did consider jumping ship at one stage when we were alongside the boat with the people on it from our bus on the way up from Hanoi, but good thing we decided not to, as our boat zoomed off quite unexpectedly as we were hatching our plan of mutiny!
The Bay at night with all the boats lit up is sublimely beautiful and serene...or was that the VD talking? In any case, I feel we made the most of the uncomfortable situation we were in and had a good night`s sleep on the boat in Halong Bay- not something you can say everyday!
Our 3 days at Halong Bay got better on Day 2. We got shunted accross to the boat we`d tried to escape onto the night before and actually had contact with people who wanted to speak to us. I`m sure we seemed like freaks when we came on the new boat and started talking frantically to whoever would listen to our rants. We met some really nice people over the next hour or so as we sailed out through the Bay...however, no sooner had we be-friended some people and they were off again, as they were only on a 1 day trip and were heading back to Hanoi. Oh well.
We then got dumped at a port, with two Brits named Matthew and Mark. Turns out they had also been having interesting experiences...they got left behind when they went kayaking the day before! They came back to meet the boat and it had disappeared without them! No head counts on Vietnamese tours it seems!
Anyway, things DID look up. We were dropped at the port for Cat Ba Island- the biggest Halong Bay island- for the next leg of our journey. This Island is basically a Vietnamese tourist resort- it is no worse than any you would find in Britain!- with tandem bicycles for hire and a sea port front for buying cheap seafood, as well as having plenty of obligatory-for-Asia karaoke! We DID have to wait about 20 minutes in the hot sun while we waited for something after disembarking the boat, who knows why we had to wait, but at least the sun was shining and the rain had gone!
We eventually got put into a a minibus and started driving across Cat Ba Island, which is one of the biggest and most well-known of the limestone karst islands at Halong with our newfound friends. We were happily driving past rice paddy fields and through the island`s mountainous countryside when a tower appeared atop a mountain in the distance. Matt proclaims "Wow, it would be so cool if we could climb up to there!". We all glance up and say kinda nonchalantly and non-committedly, "yeah..." before drifting back to our conversation about travels gone and to be. However, in about 3 minute`s time, Matt`s wish is granted. Our minibus halts and we are taken to the Cat Ba National Park for a "walk". I was looking forward to this walk through the jungle, as I love hikes and enjoy any amount of fresh air and exercise I can get. However, the walk turned out to be a massive, steep and strenuous hike up a practically vertical slope. Well, that may be a small exaggeration, but it was hard work, and the ground was muddy and slippery and our guide zoomed ahead of us with his ipod in his ear as he sang along out loud to Celine Dion`s "My heart will Go On" in the worst karaoke style singing I have ever heard. Thank goodness we had his terrible voice though, as otherwise we`d have never known the way!
After many small almost slips and falls, pulling up mini landslides using tarzan type vines for assistance and with weary bodies we got to the top of the hill and to the tower. The views were fairly impressive from the top-out over the mountains and valleys of the island- but not the most amazing view I have ever seen. Then, after about a ten minute break, we had to scramble back down, although we took an easier, man-made stair route which was much easier to navigate and negotiate.
After this expedition we headed back to our minibus and our guide wanted to stop at a cave, but our group refused to endure another hot, sweaty trek, and we all demanded to head to our hotel. So on we go towards the port on other side of the island...we get out at our hotel and there turns out to be a problem. Our group`s rooms have been double-booked! So we had to hang around for a while, and then we got served lunch, feeling all hot, sweaty, dirty and grubby, before we then had to walk about 10 minutes down the road to a much dodgier, dirtier and cheaper establishment...bust at least Marie and I landed the room with a view!
We watched the quite active port and the action on the main street below us from our 5th floor balcony (that means about 8 flights of stairs to climb I might add!) before we headed off to Monkey Island with our group. Marie and I were both petrified with this leg of our trip, as we are both terrified of monkeys and have both heard of horror stories where people get attacked and/or bitten and/or have things stolen by the monkeys on this island. Our guide didn`t help in alleviating our fears when he showed us photos of him being bitten and attacked!
However, we were lured to go there with the prospect of kayaking, to make up for missing out the day before. We were a little worried about this event however, as the guide who left behind the guys the day before was with us...but when we got to the island, the beach was much cleaner, and kayaking seemed an appropriate option for the two hours ahead of us. So, we kayaked around the whole monkey island, and saw some totally untouched beaches,oared alongside fishermen and experienced some true serenity as we floated past random islands and nothing else. After we returned to shore, we jumped into the ocean for a quick, refreshing dip. Just lovely! And may I add we didn`t see a single, scary monkey!!! Woot!
We had a boat ride back to Cat Ba, and then we went for a beer at sunset along the pier. Then it was onto dinner with our crew, during which a traditioal song and dance stage performance across from our restaurant took place. This weekend happened to be a Vietnamese festival holiday so there were heaps of people out and about on long weekend trips. We then llater met up with some girls we`d met on Cat Ba for a solid night of drinking cheap cocktails and for some funny stories with randoms.
The next day was truly glorious. There was not a cloud in the sky, there were crystal clear waters and bright blue skies, the most idyll Halong Bay weather one can ever imagine. Unfortunately our tour guide rushed us here and there and we got dumped on yet another boat while we had to wait for the FAMILY to arrive...but the beautiful sunshiny day more than made up for this unnecessary hurriedness. We were lucky enough to enjoy a perfect day on the Bay as we sailed back to Halong City and I took waaaaaaay too many pictures of random limestone karsts...they just looked soooo pretty and the sun was so warm and the weather so clear and it was all just so great!
We eventually got to Halong City for a seafood lunch and then back to Hanoi. This night that followed turned out to be quite random....I wanted to show the British guys we`d befriended Hanoi, so after Marie and I lodged a complaint to our tour company and remarkably managed to get a $5 each refund for the troubles we encountered on the trip, we met with Matt and Mark at the infamous Bia Hoi, then Mal and Ang and Joss also joined us, and we went bar-hopping and didn`t end up back home until after 2am when Mal drove Marie and I with our two daypacks on the motorbike back to Doi Can! This set a new load record for the Honda Wave...although I barely remember the trip due to drunkeness!
Anyway, all in all it was a fantastic trip and we were sooo lucky to experience Halong at her most mysterious AND most beautiful. Glad we did it, although the tiredness from so many early starts and the immediate return to work has made for a weary week.
It`s just one month exactly now until Mal and I leave Hanoi for further adventures- what a month which lays ahead!
Love to all
Sim xoxoxooxoxooxoxoxoxo
Well folks Simone and I have been nutting out what were going to do upon our return to Aus. I have been leaning towards staying for a few months and working for Council (allowing us to go to Woodford) whereas Sim would like to come back to Hanoi. After a few tears, discussions and bottles of wine, weve gone for the have your cake and eat it too option. This means we are flying back a little earlier than previously planned... about 7-10 September (straight after Burning Man. If you dont know about this festival please check it out: www.burningman.com Were really psyched about it. )
We will leave Aus again by the end of September (well stay for about 2-3 weeks) to get in 4 months of work in Hanoi, before flying back for Christmas and Woodford. Well stay in Aus for about a month again (not working), then will leave at the end of January 2008 (after both our birthdays on 24th and 30th) to do our Dive masters in Nha Trang, Vietnam, then on to Beijing for the Olympics (School year commencement March 2008).
So there ya go. Dont say we didnt warn you.
Peace
Malcolm
Ha ha! Mal, Marie and I went and got our hair cut and coloured today! It was fun! We went to a well-known Hanoi hair salon, run by a charming man named Vu who did his apprenticeship in Australia and has worked in Singapore. We had this place recommended and were all in the market for some hair sprucing...and we have some cool hair outcomes. So you can see our new dos, done by Vu, below!
As is always the way with things, I feel as though Im starting to get in to the groove of things here, just in time for our impending departure. As per Sims last entry, weve been Asianised with customised trusses, a trip to the 24 hour Pho stall now feels no different to a midnight BP sausage roll mission, and I dont feel entirely uncomfortable picking my nose in a crowded area.
Teaching the kids also cracks me up on a regular basis. I was teaching our youngest class Fingerprints. These kids are basically gelatinous blobs of humanity... so cute. Anyway I have a flash card with a skirt on it, which Im holding at crotch level and pointing to. I say Whats this?. The smartest kid in the class thinks all his Christmases have come at once. He tentatively raises his hands, scrunches up his face and says with immense enjoyment Chim? (The Vietnamese word for penis). I had to look to my Vietnamese co-teachers horrified face to confirm that I had heard correctly.
Today there was one class which was so hopeless, but I get along with the kids, so they try hard:
Malcolm: What colour is it?
Students: Im fine thanks! I had to hide behind the story cards while I cracked up.
Oh and last night we did Karaoke, so now the circle is complete.
Anyways, just thought I would write and say yo. So yeah yo.
Bye
Oh boy it has been a hectic past week! So much seems to be going on, and whilst I am busy, I am actually in my element at the moment. Working heaps as always, but going out more and living it up! It has been a week of farewells also my good friends and colleagues here, Melinda and Marty who I actually met in Australia when they were students in my TI course, have left to go to Canada on new adventures in the west. It was also Martys birthday and some other colleagues of ours, so Friday night we enjoyed a raucous night of karaoke. I will admit it here now. I love karaoke for all its badness! There is nothing like being locked into a kitsch looking room with a massive tv, a huge stereo system, a bunch of close friends and two microphones accompanied by a book of English songs. It has a manifold appeal. You can make a fool of yourself in front of your friends as you belt out bad classics- but then laugh when they do it too. There is the horrible, tacky video clip that always runs in the background behind the bouncing ball on the lyrics. I guess they figure that we are paying attention to the words and not the video clip of badly filmed iconic Vietnam sight-seeing spots. There are of course the endless amounts of beer that get brought to you by waitresses. And the free plate of fruit. And the silliness that happens when the people who run the joint cant key in song codes properly, resulting in a random song that nobody selected but which we are forced to endure- and it is even funnier when the song played is the Sesame Street theme song. Or something.
After karaoke was a surreal experience at Hanois Aussie pub the Spotted Cow. I would not recommend this pub to anyone, it was all so surreal walking into the crowded smoky bat that was engulfed in smoky haze and robust Auuustrrraayyylian accents. There were only one or two women, and the rest of the crowd standing around were middle aged balding, round-waisted, sunburnt men wearing chinos, checked shirts and moccasins or sandals. Was I in a time warp? Or a place warp? Had I somehow stepped back in time and into an Australian RSL club? In any case, the classics were being played on the stereo and as wed already warmed our tonsils at karaoke we continued our drunken warble as we belted our Ke San, Country Road and American Pie. Classy I tell you, but really the only way I could cope with the surreal place I was in!
The previous night I had been at my regular trivia night at the local Irish Pub (there is ALWAYS an Irish pub wherever you go in the world ). I am in a bit of a regular team and we have been working our way up from last to second last and to the middle over the past 6 weeks or so, and this week we reached Second! No prize for this placing, but at least we are getting better and we had cause to celebrate until 4am!! Yikes!!
Somehow got lost on the way home, and then Marty and Mel who had left ages before us drove past and rescued me I think I was swerving the motorbike all over the road, but at least the streets are empty at this time of the night maybe just as well for the silly tipsy foreigners who are the only ones awake and driving at this time of night.
Today was yet another farewell, to Yonna whos been living in the house and who is with Joss. She has decided to go back to Australia for health reasons, so she had her farewell on Wednesday night, which involved dinner at a restaurant called Chim Sao.
At some time during the week amongst all this fun, I became like a true local when I carried not only Marie on my motorbike, but also a huge 1 metre by 1 metre mattress on the bike too! We brought the mattress home from Marty and Melinda`s place, taking it off their hands before their departure so Marie could have a "bed" to sleep on. It was a lot of fun taking the huge thing home between Marie and i as we cruised down the streets of Hanoi. We hit a tree`s branches above us at one stage and Marie thought she was about to fly off the back of the motorbike, pretty funny! Glad to get home safely! I have no idea how the locals carry wider, longer, heavier loads than ours during peak traffic!
So yeah, lots of silly, funny, late nights out, lots of beer and wine, lots of yummy food and fun company. It seems such a pity to leave when things are so good Oh well, I just keep reminding myself of all the fun things ahead!
Love and laughter
Sim xoxox
Hey people I realise this entry is lengthy in words, so if you dont feel like reading my dribble, then the pictures also tell the story This is from a trip which I did about two months ago but have never got around to posting my story
It was a miserable, rainy morning at 5am when I rode my motorbike to the bus which would take me and my class of students to Chua Huong, otherwise known as the Perfume Pagoda. I didnt really know much about what to expect of the day- an excursion planned for my students at my school- and the early start and torrential rain which required me to wear my raincoat and drive practically blind down the almost-flooded streets didnt really spark much of a sense of excitement in me.
Things got progressively better though. The rain cleared, revealing a day where the sun was hinting that it may even emerge, and my students took me to a little Hanoi street diner for a hearty and satisfying breakfast of bun rieu (a type of soup with vermicelli noodles and tomatoes and tofu). Amazing what some good, tasty street food can do for a girls mood in this city!
The bus ride 75km south-west of the city, in Ha Tay province, actually rates highly in my experience of the day ahead. It was a scenic and interesting trip, first through the hectic and chaotic city traffic, the bus honking its too-loud bursts all too frequently as it careened recklessly though the hoardes of motorbikes and bicycles and general city traffic as I looked out the window I was treated to a passengers view of the street life which makes Vietnam so special, where there is never a dull moment and always something to see which is candid and/or ironic. Once we left the citys boundaries, we entered the small villages that exist on Hanois outskirts as they always have. The traditional little townships are small, and nestled among bright green rice paddy fields, and remind me that I am in Asia, in Vietnam, in Hanoi! Sometimes the routine of life here becomes so routine that I forget the simple but important things.
Each village that we pass through is known for specializing in a cottage industry of some sort. First we drive through a town that sells firewood, then a bamboo pole village, theres one that specializes in making the conical hats of which Vietnam is renown for, there is a ceramics village, a pottery village, a village selling tiles of all shapes, sizes and colours in shops along the road, and even a township specializing in making the colourful shrines which adorn every shop and are included in every home in Vietnam. It makes me happy knowing that these traditional villages still operate as they have for centuries; I am told that one village which used to sell fireworks had to change its cottage industry when a new law was passed which banned the fireworks from being made any longer. I am reminded of just how adaptable and resourceful the Vietnamese are and how they can make a major hardship become just a mere and minor hurdle in the road. I wonder where the supplies that are used in making the handicrafts actually come from, as all around all I can see are the sparse rice fields surrounding each village. Any bamboo fields or forests or pinewood plantations are not apparent in the close vicinity, so I am sure that everything must be transported to the village, probably on the back of a bicycle pushed by an ageing, elderly local who has been doing the same thing every day for their whole life.
It is extremely scenic as we hit the open road, a long, straight stretch of Vietnam-style highway. The green rice paddies flank both sides of the road, and the traditional agricultural scenes continue. There is a farmer with his buffalo pulling a cart through a half-harvested field; women outlined by their conical hats as they work in the fields; men in Vietcong style round, green army hats ride past on rusty bicycles; young boys squat precariously on the edge of a river bank as they idly play cards and fish with a basic bamboo rod and line; there are cemeteries within some of the fields, indicated by the headstones which seem to have been haphazardly plonked in random places in the field; and I love seeing what to me is like a traditional Vietnamese scene with a woman in a conical hat with her long hair flowing behind her as she rides her bicycle through the rice field, her body outlined by the green fields around her.
I am so wrapped-up in the scenery outside the bus that I am oblivious to the goings-on inside the bus, where my class of students are chatting and joking. Theres a child-like nervous energy abuzz as my adult students start to anticipate the day ahead at the pagodas. The Perfume Pagoda is actually a complex of pagodas and temples nestled in the Huong Tich Mountains (Mountain of the Fragrant Traces). It is in fact a pilgrimage for Vietnamese people to visit the pagoda in March or April (the first month of the Lunar New Year) to pay their respects, say their prayers and wish for good luck, wealth and health for the year ahead. This is a busy time of year to be visiting the pagoda, but also the best, as it is in the midst of the festival season. Apparently if this was a weekend day we would be lucky to get into the Perfume Pagoda due to the crowds of people which decide to go on the pilgrimage at this time of year.
My dreaming outside the bus window is brought to an abrupt halt when we arrive at the entrance to the town where the excursion begins. Our bus has stopped so that we can purchase a busload of entrance tickets. While we wait for the tickets to be issued we are suddenly surrounded by a bunch of women who are haggling at us through the bus windows. They are speaking fast and frantically, waving wads of red cash notes wildly and insisting that we all purchase. Some of my students actually do hand over a 100,000 note and in exchange receive from the touts the equivalent amount (or probably proportionately less!) in lucky red 200 Dong notes. It turns out that these will be used as part of the offering ritual at each of the temples we visit, as a way to tell the ancestors that they want money and wealth in the year ahead.
We eventually arrive at a river, called the Yen Stream, where every pilgrims trip to the Perfume Pagoda begins. I chuckled nervously, out loud, when I saw that 30 of us were being told to pile into one small, metal boat. The boat had about 6 bench seats no more than 2 metres wide, and somehow we were all meant to squeeze in together for a ride up the stream! We managed to get ourselves on-board and off we floated, with two weathered-looking Vietnamese women as our front and rear oars-women, steering us up the river.
The ride is stunning, if not a little uncomfortable. We are surrounded by picturesque limestone karsts and mountain formations, there are rice paddies where people are diligently working, small temples and shrines nestled on little hilltops, a beautiful red flowering tree is in blossom and the scene is simply peaceful and serene.
We make our first stop at the Trinh Temple which translates into Heavens Kitchen, where we carefully (so as not to submerge our boat or fall into the river!) file out of the boat and back onto dry land. Here I get to see, for the first time, preparations of an offering plate. It is quite a process that is done with love and attentiveness. In my group, there were several being prepared and I watch with interest as a huge plastic plate is filled with many delights of life, which will later be presented to the ancestors in the pagoda so as for them to bring forth prosperity, health and happiness. Along with bundles of lucky red 200 Dong notes, food such as chickens and biscuits, fruit, small bottles of vodka, cigarettes, incense, flowers and little note-lets with family names inscribed on them are placed neatly together on the plate, ready for presentation.
Next, the offering plate is taken into the temple and up to the shrine where it is passed to a monk who blesses it while prayers are made with three shakes of hands pressed together in prayer position. Everyone participated in this ritual, and continued to do the same thing at all the smaller temples which adjoined the main temple. It was so interesting to watch as my Vietnamese students fully embraced this opportunity to show their respect to ancestors and to worship openly and proudly among their colleagues.
When we emerged from the temple and back to the river bank, the sun had revealed itself and was shining down on us brightly and warmly. The first sun Id seen in weeks, this truly was a spiritual journey! I prayed quietly to myself as I sat back into the boat which simply seemed overcrowded. The hard seat and my squashed legs became uncomfortable by the time we hopped out of the boat again in half an hour, although I did make sure I admired the scenery which continued to show off its beauty. My students continued their banter and passed around snacks, which were taken directly from the plate which had just been offered to the ancestors. At first I was taken aback that they would eat the food they had just offered, and then it was explained that by eating the blessed offering food, the goodness would actually enter the living body and make the luck happen. Seemed reasonable to me!
There was another stop, this time at the Thien Tru Pagoda, an apparent must for this pilgrimage. This is where everyone stops to burn incense and make offerings for the God of the Mountain. This is where the spectacle really began for me, where I started to understand the description of the pagoda at this time of year as a festival, and gained a greater insight into the spiritual aspect of this trip. There were many, many people at this temple, all crowding around together to make their offering plate and then forcibly making their way through a wide crowd to present their plate to the altar. It was so difficult to get to the front of the temple to present the offering plate that some people had to hold the plate on their head and carry it forward.
There was a gathering of nuns and monks all chanting together in the temple as our group approached with its beautifully presented plate, and it sounded divinely magical. I wandered around the complex and noted that this looked as though it had a working monastery attached, where mostly nuns were dressed in brown robes. As my Vietnamese students all prayed and made offerings at the various temples and shrines, I continued exploring the area and discovered a lot of greenery and beauty, small ponds, many shrines and left offerings. There were many groups of people all congregated on the ground with their offering plates before them, which they were eating heartily picnic style, for the second time today I was pleased with the Vietnamese ingenuity and liked knowing that they would never let a whole chicken go to waste on an offering plate left at a shrine.
Once our group re-gathered we kept going on our journey to the Huong Tich Pagoda and Grotto. We walked together past the Tro Wharf where our boat would remain moared, and past numerous restaurants and cafes which had dead animals apparently captured from the nearby holy mountains, and then killed and strung in the restaurants entrance to try and lure diners. Totally gross. We then walked up a muddy, slippery incline, past many more stalls which totally confused me. We were meant to be in a peaceful, spiritual place, yet stall after stall was selling tacky souvenirs, plants, herbs and medicine and the most strange item of all- karaoke DVDs which were being played loudly and also traditional Buddhist songs and chants which were also blaring out obnoxiously.
In decades previous, the tens of thousands of pilgrims who visited Huong Pagoda would have to have walked a few kilometres up the mountain. However now, it is possible to catch a cable car, which is the quicker and probably the more scenic option. I imagine that walking up the steep, slippery steps for an hour or two would mean a lot of looking down, watching every step, whereas we could look out and enjoy the scenery in the comfort of our little carriage strung between the valleys.
Once we hopped out at the top we had to walk a short way up to the Huong Tich Cave gates entrance. This cave is known as the most picturesque in Vietnam, and is located down 120 steps deep into the mountain. One of my students shows me an inscription on the stone gate which says "Nam Thien De Nhat Dong" and which he translates to me as saying The most beautiful cave in the South. Everyone is quite excited about what lays ahead, even those who make this pilgrimage every year. I guess there must be a reason why this has been a place of worship for over 1000 years.
As I walk single-file behind the other pilgrims, all walking carefully down the precarious walkway into the mouth of the enormous cave, I notice a shower of ash is falling from the sky. It really seems to be raining ash, an indication of the amount of lucky money that has been burnt in the surrounding temples on this day. Once we reach the grottos entrance I look inside to see many stalagmites and stalactites among which are nestled numerous shrines dedicated to Buddha all lit up with lights, and there are hundreds of people all crammed inside with their offering plates and joss sticks burning, making their prayers solemnly at each shrine. There is one stalactite which drips small droplets of water every few minutes, and groups of people stand holding their hands up expectantly hoping for the holy, lucky drop to fall into their hand. It is festive, and quite a spectacle, especially for a first-timer like me. I am just pleased that I am here with locals who can show me around and tell me stories about the place, and that I am not like some other foreign tourists attached to a tour group, wandering around and just looking confused!
After visiting the cave, the most exciting part of the day was over. We walked back up the rickety steps, caught the cable car back over the Tuyet Son Mountain, which was stunning, avoided getting sprinkled with too much rain and boarded our boat for the return trip down the Yen Stream. My students munched away again on the food from their offering plates, others napped and we eventually made it back to the pier.
The next part of our day- a long day of being a pilgrim!- is a visit to a temple which I am sure most regular tourists dont get the chance to visit. Called Duc Thanh Ca, we had to drive to another pier and then catch a motorised ferry across the river to get to the temple. It was much quieter here than in the Perfume Pagoda complex, and the most spectacular part of the day was watching a sunset over the river, that caused burnt orange reflections in the water and filled the sky with a pink coloured hue. Most peaceful and relaxing as we sat and drank tea and soaked in the serenity, watched a local farmer ora a boat with his feet, watched cattle meander through the fields and children playing on the river bank. A little piece of rural Vietnam just a few hours from Hanoi.
I feel I have learnt a lot about Vietnam on this day, about the spiritual aspect of the country which is evident everywhere, but not in an in-your-face way. I note that the whole complex has an interesting energy, one that is peaceful and serene among the festivities, and I feel grateful to have been treated to such insights as well as so much natural beauty and friendship and comraderie. A trip to the Perfume Pagoda is likely to be a different pilgrimage for everyone, but I think it would be impossible to walk away without feeling even just a little bit enlightened!
On Thursday morning I got up super early to go on a pilgrimage that just has to be done when you have lived in Hanoi for a while, and that is going to the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum to see the embalmed Uncle Ho. It is actually silly that I haven`t been to this tourist attraction (for both locals and visitors) before, as it is right at the end of our road, about a 5 minute motorbike ride away!
So I ended up going with Marie and my flatmate Joss and his mum who is visiting at the moment. It was a surreal experience all-in-all, from the moment we got herded here and there, and into a room with a movie playing which I can only presume was telling us about the revered Uncle Ho`s life, but I don`t know for sure as it was all in Vietnamese. We had to sit for ten minutes here- or as the sign outside the room said- Pause. Then we had to walk single file down a road with white lines marked on it. We were encouraged to walk between the two lines, side-by-side, as we filed to a queue for the xray machine...then we followed another white line trail, which eventually led us to the mausoleum itself.
There were some very serious looking guards all in their uniforms, glaring at everyone as they entered the mausoleum. There was an eery, ominous silence as we walked closer to the room where Uncle Ho is entombed. Then, we entered the darkened room where he, the man who is most loved, most respected by every Vietnamese person, lays. There was a glass box casing around his body and an atmospheric light shone down on his waxy features. Ho Chi Minh the man looked serene and at peace. It was morbid yet fascinating at the same time. I was suprised by how short his beard was- maybe he had a trim recently?- and by how small his body in general looked.
That whole experience was over in less than a few minutes. We had to file past- slowly- but could not stop. I wasn`t game to tempt the wrath of the guards who glared sternly at everyone on either side of the glass encasing.
After this was over, we saw the Presidential Palace which Uncle Ho resided in, as well as the House on Stilts which he also lived in, very understated and in fitting with his philosophies. The gardens were tranquil and pretty, but I was underwhelmed by the size of the One Pillar Pagoda which for some reason I thought would be bigger.
We didn`t have time to go inside the Museum- another time, seeing as it is just down the road from where I live- but I did get to see lots of really cute school kids on excursion. Check out the pics to see what I mean.
One last thing I have to share is that I believe Uncle Ho is considered almost God-like by people here. In the brochure we got given at the entrance it says:
"In this place the Vietnamese, generation after generation, have arrived to pay homage and show gratitude to President Ho Chi Minh and express their determination to follow the revolutionary path He had chartered to build a peaceful, democratic and prosperous Vietnam". Every time His name was mentioned as a pronoun, it started with a capital H...that proves it to me! It`s also bizarre that the man Himself only wanted to be cremated, yet he has a whole 21.6m high and 41.2 m wide Mausoleum in which His embalmed body lies for viewing by thousands of people every day, and flagpole plaza commemorating him forever more. An unusual experience, that is for sure...
On Saturday night, my old friend Mark who lives in Bangkok, came to Hanoi for a visit! So we met up for a night of cocktails daaarling at the very upmarket and posh-wah Bobby Chin`s. We had a section of the bar to ourselves which involved a little curtained compartment with cushions and a huge sheesha pipe for smoking apple tobacco through, as well as amazing service and some divinely delicious cocktails. We lived it up this night, and even with about 8 of us drinking away merrily in one of the best places in Hanoi, the whole night cost us less than a round of drinks at a nice place in Australia. Love it!
After this little soiree, Marie and I headed out to this massive party at a place called the Lighthouse which is on the Red River. It is also a difficult place to find! We got soooo lost! We ended up driving around at 1am up and down the highway and then wound around alleys that were dark and scary but eventually found it! I`m glad we persevered (I was close to giving up and going home!) as the place was packed! Who would have thought there were so many young white ex-pats in Hanoi? Not me! I wonder where they all live and what they all do? We only stayed for two beers, bumped into some people we know and scootered out again, but it would have been a good party to stay and schmooze and dance at!
On our way home, we nearly had a run-in with the SAS when we stopped to take pictures of the lit-up Flag Tower and the Statue of Lennin and the empty streets....must have been lingering for too long and looking suspicious :-)
Check out the pics!
Love Simxoxox
On Sunday, it was Vietnams National Assembly General Election. In the weeks leading up to the big event, it has been an interesting time to be here in Hanoi. I imagine it is similar to how things were during the APEC meeting last year. So what happens during this time? I dont understand the election properly. I have tried to ask a few of my students about it but they dont really seem that forthcoming in information. I think they get to vote on the new members of the Socialist Party I have heard that there are a few independents running this year, but if they get elected, theyll probably become Party members before too long.
With regards to what goes on in Hanoi itself, well, there is a lot more of a police presence, ensuring that the streets are clean and people are obeying the law. The bars and clubs have been forced to close at the midnight curfew, leaving just a few of the regular ex-pat haunts open after the curfew (surreptitiously mind you!). Things have been done by the contending party leaders as they show people their pre-election fervour. On Saturday night when Marie and I were coming home we stopped to take pictures of the empty streets and a monument, but I think we must have stopped for too long as these scary looking SAS style police Ive never seen before approached us with guns, so we quickly zoomed off!
One thing I wish hadnt been done was repairs to the public address loud speaker in our alley. Since I moved here, the loud speaker in our alley has been broken. This means I havent had to listen to the Voice of Vietnam at all for months. The Voice is like a national radio station that is broadcast daily at 6:45am and 4:45pm on the city address system for about 20 minutes. There is a voice that booms out and tells people all sorts of propaganda and reminds women to be good house wives and men to be home before curfew and for everyone to dress modestly (and I reckon they say something about being sure to rip off foreigners as much as possible, although this is unconfirmed!). Anyway the loud speaker near my house got repaired last week sometime and I have once again been treated to the patriotic ramblings. Over the past few days, the speakers started up at the normal 6:45am and then after the Voice finished, loud, screeching, Vietnamese style opera and nationalistic music blared out ALL DAY!!
So the election was on Sunday and on election eve, people could be seen have parties to celebrate and locals all strung up Vietnamese flags from their homes and shops, to show their patriotism. On Sunday it reminded me of when there is an election at home. The schools all had a festival-like atmosphere with people selling balloons and various street foods outside where people had to vote. It was just like our version in Australia of a fundraiser sausage sizzle. Unlike Australia though, the Vietnamese were being reminded all day to vote (over the loud speakers of course!) but people seemed really excited about it all.
Ballott papers are still being counted I believe so dont know who won and what that means for Vietnam, but will keep you all posted!
It`s getting hot! It`s great to have warm weather, and the humid, steamy air reminds me of Brisbane in summer. It is a reprieve to go to work and to stay in the air conditioned classrooms and teacher`s room for hours every night. When I walk out of the building and back into the hot evening air, it smacks me in the face with its sweltering density.
Today, however, when I walked into work, the building was out of power. Power outs are frequent here, for no apparent reason, but tonight`s outage was terrible! Imagine 16 students sitting in an oven of heat in a small cramped and windowless room with not an inch of air, let alone light! Everyone, including me, was just dripping with sweat. We had three candles to use among all of us. I had a reading exercise planned, and had to wing it, as nobody could read their text. The room was stifling, and it was quite ridiculous really! My students were great though. They rarely complain,and are used to such things happening I guess. The small amount of natural light was about to fade, and everyone had just about had enough...I was about to pack it all in and just have a chat when voila! The power came back on!
So within 5 minutes we were sitting in a nicely air-con room and the lesson went on as it should have! I`m pleased though, as my next lesson was with a bunch or 16 and 17 year olds and I had planned a listening lesson, so it could have spelt disaster! Gotta love teaching English in Vietnam!
In the wake of imminent departure from Hanoi for a few months, I have been thinking about all the things I am going to miss. Being a list writer, I have started compiling lists. Here`s the first I`d like to share....
My Top 5 (Vege-quarian Friendly) Hanoi Street Foods
1. Pho Chay
The big steaming bowl of noodle soup goodness is the answer to everything. I always add heaps of chilli sauce and lime before I slurp down the broth and suck up the noodles, chew the spring onion and enjoy the coriander and chives. For 5,000 Dong you cant go wrong!
2. Bun Rieu
Another soup dish, as Im a noodle soup fanatic. This time, its vermicelli noodles with a tomato based broth, in which crab meat and tofu and tomato is added. Delicious, hearty and cheap at 10,000 Dong.
3. Dau Phu Xao
Basket ladies on the street set up mobile stands where they fry the tofu and then serve it to you as you teeter on little plastic stools designed for kids. With the tofu comes vermicelli noodles and a variety of leafy greens as well as a variety of dipping sauces- avoid the purple Tom Mau which is a shrimp paste made for only those with strong noses and stomachs. Gather some greens, some noodles and some tofu in between your chopsticks and away you go! Eat as much as you can until you are full and it will never cost more that 10,000 Dong.
4. Com Rang (Khong Thit)
Fried Rice that is more than your standard special. Youll see men frying up rice in woks outside the shop, and they will deliver it to your table for you to enjoy a filling, substantial and delicious meal for 12,000 Dong. I dont know what spices they add to make this friend rice so flavoursome but I can never get enough!
5. Pho Xao Chay
I like to get mine from food street at the end of Hang Bong late at night after a few beers. The fried pho noodles, the delicious vegetables and the tasty sauce it is fried in is the best hangover cure and makes my belly happy every time for just 15,000 Dong.
Hanoi sure is a city of extremes in temperature! Winter has at last departed and summer is definitely here!
Its so hot in Hanoi at the moment that even when driving 40km/ph on the motorbike, the wind rushing past does not provide any semblance of a cool reprieve. In fact, it is similar to driving through a furnace, and reminds me of the feeling when opening a hot oven door and a blast of hot air blows into your face. No such things as natural air conditioning on 36 degree days!
The streets are practically empty in the heat of the day, everyone is cowering inside where cool air conditioning is the order of the day. The other is an icy cold, fresh beer, about all that will quench my seemingly insatiable thirst.
Those people who are out on their motorbikes hide from the beating sun any way they can. Women wear hats and long-sleeved bike riding over shirts made specially so even their hands on the handlebars are protected. There are young school girls on bicycles holding umbrellas as they ride. When stopping at a red light, people hide under the shade of a tree- even if the shade is provided 1-2 metres away from the actual stop line. The small congregations in random places on the road are funny to see, but its the only sensible option to sitting for a minute in the scorching sun which reflects onto the black road tarmac. Its quite lucky Hanois streets are so tree-lined!
At least the humidity has not yet set-in, the dry heat is bearable, but add to the temperature the sticky and wet humidity factor and it becomes another story!
Just a quick entry to say hello to everyone. Im thinking of you all back home. I know Sim has written like a bazillion entries and I have written significantly less than a bazillion, so shame on me I guarantee Ill start writing consistently again when we hit the road and have zero spare time.
Theres a huge cultural gap apparent here. The young crowd have tasted the fruits of capitalism and are very liberal in attitude, mind and dress, and ever so keen to throw off the cultural shackles of their past. This is probably much to the chagrin of the older generation who have worked and bled so much to secure this freedom, but yeah its so fascinating to be here in this transitional time, with two very evident and distinct viewpoints.
One side effect of all of these fashionable healthy attractive young Vietnamese is to serve as a reminder that I should be taking care of myself. So Ive bought some new threads, dyed my hair, and even gone and gotten my teeth cleaned and polished (for free of course my friend Thang seems to know EVERYBODY. No joke). Trying to eat better too and do a bit of exercise. And promise you wont rip on me Im getting a facial with Simone next week, with a possibility of a pedicure. Good thing we are leaving, or an ass wax could be around the corner.
Really exciting times lie behind us and ahead of us. Every day holds something new and interesting (Shit its good to be able to type that ). This is the best possible thing I could be doing in my life right now, and its great to know that.
But for now, I have an assignment due so gotta go. Dylan if youre reading this, its discrete mathematics and Im doing truth tables and propositional logic. Its pretty interesting. You should Wiki Omniscience and Omnipotence. It uses the same symbols and methodology that Im learning about now.
Todd: Word (specifically, a four letter word, followed by a number. You know what I mean).
Peace all. If I do end up waxing my anus I promise Ill do a photo spread for your viewing pleasure (ooh )
What can I say! It was a great party on Sunday night and I could not have asked for anything better- really! I had all my good friends I`ve got to know over the past 6 months all around me, in my house, with spontaneous cocktail creations involving various spirits and passionfruit and juice, and yummy snacks, and music playing, and all sorts of banter including white board marker shennanigans which saw us drawing caricatures with a difference on the pane glass (yep, the pane glass panels and white board markers came into action yet again!) as well as a random impromptu percussion session started by Joss which involved about 10 of us banging on whatever we could find with whatever drum sticks we could create. Joss broke several chopsticks, a glass bowl and a plastic bucket...thank god Ang saved us from further damage when she reminded us she had a really early start the next day and it was 3am. Thanks Ang for being such a great flatmate and being so understanding of the drummer within us all.
The last guests left at 5am when the sun was rising, the cocks were crowing and it was about to be that scary transition time between night and day, drunk and sober, energetic but exhausted. Don`t even talk to me about my hangover today.
I had such a fun time, thanks everyone for coming! I am going to miss all of you sooo much!!!! I`ll let the pictures tell the rest of the story!
It started with meager beginnings as a small gathering of minds to play chess, and slowly progressed into a weekly event which was basically an excuse to get together, drink beer and get pissed! Every Tuesday night for the past few months, our household and our good friends Mark and Kate as well as another good friend Ronan have got together at either one of our houses to play games.
From normal chess we progressed to Chinese chess and then Pictionary (on the pane glass of course when it is at our place) to various video games, and last night, for Mal`s and mine last games night for a while, we played charades. The quirky thing about our games nights is that we meet about 8:30pm, start drinking, eat dinner (usually pizza or Indian delivery but the best nights are jacket potato feasts at Mark and Kate`s place which has an oven) and we don`t get started on the games until well after 11pm, so the nights are usually late ones.
Last night was no different, but particularly humorous was the three-hour long conversation which preceded charades... "What would be the worst possible song to play at someone`s funeral, dependent upon how they died." It sounds morbid but was actually hilarious, and yes, of very bad taste but that`s what made it so humorous.
So first we`d think of the way of death and then the inappropriate song. The best ideas were:
1. Death by Earthquake: You Let the Earth Move, by Martika
2. Death by Bushfire: Burn, Baby Burn
3. Death by Suicide from the Empire State Building: Jump by Van Halen
4. Death by Avalanche: Just a Little Crush
5. Death by a suicide bomber: TNT
6. Death by Lightning: Thunderstruck
7. Death by Gastro: Ring of Fire
8. Death by Tsunami: Wipeout!
9. Death by Crocodile: Crocodile Rock
10. Death by Road Accident: On the Road Again
Yep, really, really bad.
We salvaged the evening`s conversation from further demise when we commenced charades which was just as funny. Mark would have to be the funniest mimer in the universe, especially when trying to get across the movie title Pulp Fiction. I`ll never forget it.
Our house guest for this week- Verity- who is one of Joss` best friends, kicked our asses and won the night hands down. We didn`t want to call it an end at 1:30am, but we`d run out of beer and steam.
I`m going to miss games night, and everyone who participates. Please keep it going for us Kate, Mark, Joss, Ang, Ronan and now Marie, or we`ll be really sad. I miss all of you guys already!!
Love Sim xo
Two Sundays ago, Mal and I had a very rare day off and we decided to go for a motorbike ride with our good friends Mark and Kate. We drove about 50km west of Hanoi to a national park called Ba Vi. This trip was one of those ones where the journey is as memorable as the destination. Whilst Ba Vi was beautiful, and the trek up the mountain through the clouds was great, so was the ride through small Vietnamese townships, past rice fields being harvested and being in the Vietnamese countryside. Best of all was the ride, or should that be glide?- down the mountain with the motorbike engine off where i felt like I was flying. The complete silence as we soared downhill with me holding my arms out by my side was peaceful and magical. The saddest part of the day was when we stopped for a bia hoi and on our way out of the town we realised it was a town where they kept live bears in cages to drain them of their bile, and we had to ride past the trapped bears in the shops along the road :-(
All in all however, the day was great, and a perfect opportunity to get out of Hanoi city one last time before we depart and to experience rural Vietnam with our friends on the motorbike.
I like these pictures, especially the one of the boy riding the cow...
Love to all
Sim xoxox
1. Kitchen
On the West Lake near the Sheraton Hotel, this gorgeous place is not cheap but sure is delicious! It reminds me of a cafe at home in Australia and serves an amazing Mediterranean platter, does an awesome falafal pitta and delicious juices...divine food!
2. Puku
Home away from home on Hang Trong, I have been here three times this week....but that`s nothing. Some of my friends go daily! The really good vegetable pittas, the chickpea salad, the taupo open grill, the capuccinos, and the passionfruit juice all more than make up for the disorganised staff who actually just make me giggle rather than frustrate me. You can`t come here in a hurry, but with the comfy couches who cares?
3. Ao Lac
I only recently discovered this place but have been regulalrly since I dd. It`s appeal is in the open courtyard that is great on a nice warm, sunny day. They do some good, large salads, delicious huge bowls of soup, a good vegetable sandwich and some delicious creamy pastas. It`s cheap too! I have found out that this cafe has a long history which staretd as this first Hoan Kiem Lakeside cafe many years ago but has since moved to its location on Ly Thai To near the Press Club and Sofitel Hotel.
4. Ete
Know by my household as The French Cafe, it is just that! French cuisine at Vietnam prices! They do awesome butter veggies, a delicious tuna steak and some good pastas. The best dish is definitely the vegetarian pizza however! They also do awesome coffees and the best bit is its location just down the road from us off Doi Can. The cafe is also great as it has couches, games, and even a fuss-ball table! Woot!
5. Lay Bac
This quaint restaurant on Hang Bac rates on this list for one particular dish- the baked fish in banana leaf with saffron and lemon grass. Awesome meal that I go there to have especially! There`s also great pancakes on the dessert menu!
6. Kazhana
I haven`t actually ever been into this restaurant but have consumed so many of the vegetarian thalis delivered to the door at Doi Can that I just had to mention it. Mr Gopi, who runs the restaurant, knows Malcolm`s voice on the phone because we have eaten so many of the curries which are authentic, delicious and great value!
7. La Place
This is an extremely last-minute addition....went here today for the first time and discovered THE most desirably delicious and thirst-quenching drink in this city...a mint, lime and honey icy crush. Sooo good! They also do a ice coffee crush which comes in a HUGE cup and the food was pretty good too! You`ll find this cafe near the St Joseph`s cathedral.
1. Bia Minh on Dihn Liet, Hoan Kiem
Okay, so the food here is not the most amazing food ever, but it is cheap, cheerful and very much like homestyle cooking. The balcony upstairs on the roof is great for people watching on the Old Quarter streets below, the staff are super-friendly, once you meet Minh who owns the place, she will always remember you. I recommend the vegetarian curry, the papaya salad, the fresh veggie spring rolls and any of the juices! None of these things will even come close to breaking the bank either....
2. Quan An Ngon
This place serves excellent traditional style at great prices and is always packed with crowds of local people. It has an outdoor courtyard garden for dining, with small kitchens surrounding the tables so you can see being made what you have ordered. Always delicious with only problem being you have to get there early before the kitchens close to have everything on the menu.
3. Chim Sao
Lots of yummy vegetarian options in a nice restaurant with cushions to sit on in bare feet. Delicious!
Just a quick note to say how much I am going to miss life here. We leave Hanoi in a few hours for some new and amazing adventures, but I just don`t feel ready to leave yet! I am going to miss you my house-mates at Doi Can! I am going to miss you my playing buddies! I am going to miss you pho, mia da (sugar can juice), cheap food everywhere, even cheaper beer and all the fresh, seasonal fruit. I am going to miss trivia night on Thursdays, and seeing random things like babies riding in bicycle baskets. I am going to most of all miss the daily freedom that is possible to enjoy here, which is unlike anywhere else.
At a stretch, I won`t miss being hassled by xe om drivers, the huggable transportiers who are worthy of a punch sometimes...and the crazy traffic where people honk you when they are driving towards you in your lane...and I am definitely not going to miss working 7 days a week!
So bring on the adventures, looking forward to returning in September and am really excited about being in Nepal in another day!
Love to all
Sim xoxox
Hi all! Just a quick entry to say that we have made it in one pece to Kathmandu, about an hour ago....well, our bodies have made it but our exhausted minds are somewhere between here and Hanoi and who knows where my luggage is. Yep, that`s right. For the first time in ten years of travelling everywhere, my luggage ddn`t arrive on the conveyer belt wth Mal`s and everyone elses :-( Thai Airways say that it will come tomorrow, but this delays us by a day, as we were going to head straight to Pokhara tomorrow, and if the luggage doesn`t arrive tomorrow, then we certanly won`t make it out of the Kathmandu Valley which would be a pity. Sigh. Not a great way to start the holiday!
Trying to remain positive...although it`s quite funny that I had an intuition which I blurted out loud to Mal at Bangkok about this actually happening....not much I could have done about it anyway.
Bangkok sucked. We had to sleep on seats in the transit lounge where it was freeeeezng cold- Marie, thank god we took the sleep sheet!- and it was totally uncomfortable and just really long (12 hours!). We are both going to sleep well tonight,
that is for sure!
My first, hour-long impressions are that Nepal is like India wthout the freneticness and wth many happy smilng people...and after walkng down the main drag just now I have decided I could be in much, much worse places to have to by a new wardrobe if it comes down to that!
Thanks everyone for your well-wishes upon our Hanoi departure, miss you all already!
Love Sim xoxox
Well Sim is writing an entry simultaneously, so there may be a double up on what we say, but hey, twice the value for you then...
We bade farewell to Hanoi on Tuesday arvo, and had a killer 12 HOUR stopover in the new, swanky, overpriced Bangkok airport. This didnt involve any sleep since they were keeping dinosour embryos cryogenically frozen in the economy departure lounge (The only explanation for the -60 Degree temperature...or perhaps they wanted people to get up and do some shopping in the noticeably more temperate parfum/rolex/trinket areas...)
Sim`s backpack didn`t arrive. Would like to somehow make a funny quip about that.... but simply put, that sucks major ass and will now affect our travel plans depending on how long it takes to get here. So yeah, we are exhausted (approaching the 36 hours, no sleep mark), being bombarded by touts, and are down one backpack, but looking forward to the time ahead. Just mentioning this stuff in case this entry seems low key.
Kathmandu is vibrant and beautiful. We didn`t get to see Everest on the way in due to clouds, but we have plans to go for a hike somewhere that gaurantees to be quite like... hilly and stuff. The scenery is amazing. From our guesthouse we can see distant peaks. The shops are beyond a hippy`s dream. The biggest variety of amazing stuff I have seen so far. Can`t even be described. Mountaineering shops are intermingled with the mind boggling mix of stores, each one selling something uniquely beautiful and delicious. As I sit here I can smell Chai and incense, and see shops selling everything from momos to silks to dreadlocks and tattoos.
And as for the people, well wow. I have only talked to one or two of them so far, but they are so gentle, solemn, friendly and peaceful. They have the most fascinating faces too.
I have wanted to come here for many years and I`m not disappointed. We`ll definitely be coming back here again... and hey, all we`ve done so far is drop off our bags and find an internet cafe....
Gotta go, we are beyond shagged and we gotta organise stuff.
Peace all. Thanks for the entries too.
Hey all. Just a quick note to say that Sim`s luggage arrived just fine at 5pm the next day. We`re off to Pokhara now so no time to write more (although there is much to tell)
Peace
Malcolm and Simone
This entry could also be titled: Cool Kathmandu, but I thought more people would read the ensuing dribble of words if I gave it a more intriguing title
I dunno. Maybe it is just because we hadnt slept in 36 hours, and because I was worried about my lost luggage, or because we had just left Hanoi but my first impressions were that Kathmandu wasnt as crowded, that the traffic was not at all congested, and that it was more like India, than I had expected it to be!
I had been told that Kathmandu was just another city really and that its polluted, dirty and the traffic is crazy and for some reason I thought the city, and Nepal in general- would look more Tibetan than Indian. I also was surprised by how many men were working in the shops and street carts and selling fruit what a difference to the very male-dominated Vietnamese culture where women do the dirty work. Ok, they were first thoughts.
After some sleep, a great day out and the return of my luggage I penned some notes down on what I thought of Nepal, and specifically Kathmandu so far
The smell of incense permeates the air. It intermingles with the tantalizing smell of freshly baked goods and motorbike exhaust fumes, but the smell of Nag Champa is all-powerful over these other scents. Its the busy hour: 9:30am. All the Nepali children are walking to school which starts at 10am. They are all dressed up in suit pants and white collared shirts and ties- both boys and girls. The really wee kiddies are holding their mums hand, while the 8 and 9 years are seen walking next to their mum who is very close by. Some older students walk with their friends, girls are laughing with their shiny black, pigtailed and plaited hair which is tied together with big red ribbons and hangs over their book bags which are slung over their shoulders. The boys walk 3-by-3 arms around each other. Things are as casual as the late school starting time. Yet there is action happening all around.
Men are selling bananas from their painted-red wagon-style cart, shopkeepers are sweeping the street in front of their store, making it presentable. Brightly coloured people-powered rickshaws blow ridiculous-sounding horns to warn they are cycling past at-speed. Big, beasty looking motorbikes made for rough terrains honk and broom on by, squeezing past a rickshaw thats on the wrong side of the road and a few bewildered pedestrians not sure which way to move. Pastries and sweet delights are luring customers to the bakery window; silver and other gems sparkle from the many jewellery shops. Women in their colourful flowing saris and sawar kameez with silken scarves slung over their shoulder are bartering for meat or fruit at little street-side shops with small dwarf-sized (or Nepali it seems!) doorways painted blue or red or yellow behind which lies the counter selling their wares. Im walking down the maze-like streets of Thamel, the ground is cobbled stone or mud while the street is so narrow it seems more like an alley or lane than a major thoroughfare. This area of town oozes with history and old-ness. We stop in for a Yak Breakfast at the Yak Café which serves a big breakfast set for less than $2. Our seat at the front window gives us a great people-watching vantage point. Were treated to an intimate moment between mother and child. The mother had a scarf over her face and was rough-playing with her small son in her arms. He would laugh and then shed kiss him with open affection and lovingness, lips to his soft face. It was beautiful.
Thailand has its motto as the Land of the Smiles but I think that this would be more fitting for Nepal where peace, compassion, friendliness, co-operation and understanding is shown to us with everyone we come into contact with. Our hotel manager brings us free coffees and chats to us proudly about his new position in the Office of Tourism and invites us out for dinner; shopkeepers want you to buy, and they do sometimes seem so desperate for the sale that it hurts, yet they also want to know everything about us and will start on a diatribe about their own desires to study in Australia, talk about the current political situation or whatever; and it is all done with a smile that gushes warmth. Maybe Ive just been living in Hanoi for too long, where everyday interactions with locals are quite cold and straightforward, where such behaviour is not rude, just their culture, so I have got used to being treated almost standoffishly and now I am in Nepal and suddenly this cultural norm is very different but so recognizable I realise Ive missed being treated nicely!
The Nepali equivalent of Vietnams pho (noodle soup), which I usually would eat every day, are Momos which are essentially dumplings. Unlike in Vietnam where I miss out on eating the meat-only bahn bao dumplings, I can indulge here as, with what is great about this region, there is always a vegetarian option. I can also indulge because a plate of these steamed vege momos is about 30 cents. Woot! We ate many in Kathmandu, getting our fix of the delicious goodness of thin pastry filled with sprouts or potatoes or carrot or whatever mix of food the particular restaurant had. I just love how they are presented too! Most of the food in Kathmandu is NOT Nepalese cuisine, with everything from Italian, to Mexican, to Chinese to English none of it is done all that well, but its pretty cheap (though not as cheap as Vietnam) and our tastebuds and stomachs dont go uncared for.
Our second day of exploring this interesting town involved Durbar Square and The Monkey Temple. Durbar Square was just as I had imagined it to be like- old temples and people intermingling in their everyday life among tourists who come to see the 17th Century buildings where kings once ruled. The square is quite large, and within are many different Hindu temples each with their own story. Maju Deval has terraced steps where common people these days languidly lounge. A man sleeps on his back, a newspaper over his face; two women chatter and laugh together; a young couple sit awkwardly side-by-side, not-quite-touching on a very public date; a sadhu sits and stares with his stave in hand. This is once where the hippies hung out and smoked ganja when they put Kathmandu on the map in the 60s. Today this is where I hang out and people-watch. The activity below in the square is constant. Persistent guides offer their services to tourists who look newly-arrived, rickshaws, taxis, motorbikes and bicycles to and fro, men push carts selling peanuts and fruit and chaat, a group of women in saris congregates then disperses, a small child walks clumsily, people meet in front of a landmark and then stroll off together, shopkeepers sell fruit and veg and newspapers and postcards in shops which surround the main square squished in beside another temple, and everyone strolls through as if oblivious to the surrounds in this ancient square. I felt that all I needed to see was a snake charmer and the scene would have been complete (this I actually did get to see in Thamel later in the day, my minds eye picture painted before my eyes in reality).
Were treated to a viewing of the Kumari Devi, the living goddess, who is a beautiful young girl who lives in the Kumari Buhal building in the square. She has been chosen for passing 31 stringent appearance and personality requirements, at the age of 3 when she reaches puberty she resumes her life as before (when she was 3!) as a normal girl. She looked spoilt if you ask me. She poked her face out of the turret, we looked up at her and greeted her with Namaste and then she peered back down at us. She seemed to be wearing a lot of makeup for a 8 year old girl, and before I could think anything more, she had vanished, biding us farewell. No pictures of the living goddess are allowed, so youll just have to imagine what she looks like!
There were two other temples worth mentioning. One is what we dubbed the Karma Sutra temple for the very erotic wood carvings on its outer walls- ooh la la, makes a girl blush- as well as the colourful depiction of the Hindu character Khala. I just love how the square is like a living museum, that its okay for people to walk through it, sit on any part of the outer temples and that there is even a cow with millions of pigeons sitting around it- something every square should have!
We also climbed the Monkey Mountain, 213 steep steps brought us to the top and some magnificent views of the Kathmandu Valley. It setting was beautiful but the environment was surreal, with hawkers selling mangoes and coconut, shops selling handicrafts and several cafes and restaurants sharing the space with a working Buddhist monastery which has prayer flags strung in every tree top as well as a Shiva shrine. A perfect example of the Nepali harmony. We chat to a boy selling Buddhist crafts at a stall, I buy a prayer wheel which caught my eye, and the knowledgeable guy chatted to us for a long time about life in Nepal, all the time in the world to talk to us about everything and anything.
By evening were weary, so we go to get a feed. The previous night when wed gone for dinner wed ended up with cocktails and a hubbly bubbly (sheesha pipe) on our table which had made us feel very happy. We then had got lost navigating the dark streets which all look the same and had to get a rickshaw to take us home On this second night we first had to squeeze through a traffic gridlocked roundabout. Even though the traffic in Kathmandu has nothing on Hanoi, this was one traffic jam you would never see in the constantly moving Hanoi roads. Here, everything had ground everything to a halt, so that there were cows, cars, people, bikes all squashed together unable to move. Somehow we squeezed, clamberd, climbed through the traffic and no sooner had we emerged from the traffic ruck once again on our way to find some dinner, and we got caught in a torrential downpour of rain which required us to purchase umbrellas. I thought the rain might stop the moment I bought it (Murphys Law!) but instead the steady, persistent and hard rain poured down all night. The monsoon season has well and truly begun.
The wet weather did not deter me from shopping, and I still felt like I was in heaven. All the clothes are in any colour imaginable, theres too many pieces of beautiful silver jewellery, great shoes and handbags, purses, singing meditation bowls, wooden masks, yak-hair shawls, pashminas, and cool jackets and coats, all at cheap discounted prices. I walk past shop after shop in a blur down streets that have all started to look the same. It was like overload, so as a result I bought barely anything a few gifts and thats it, I knew that once I opened my wallet and began I would be unstoppable.
So thats Kathmandu. It treated us well and was a very cool place to get a feel for the local life, to get a shopping fix and to take in some architectural and cultural heritage. It was difficult to leave so soon, after only just scraping the surface of a small part of the Old Town. On the other hand, its always a pleasure to leave any city and to start exploring a new place where the air is clean and the scenery is sweet!
So we are in Pokhara at the moment. At first I wasnt sure whether one travels to Pokhara, or orders it along with a Korma, but we decided to go with the travel there option. We met with success.
Hangon, before Pokhara Kathmandu. In a word: cool. In more than one word: very cool. In point form: *Amazing food *Spectacular shopping *Rain *Durbar Square *Sadhus giving us Tikas *Sheeshas that for some reason made us feel very good... *All the Rickshaw drivers using squeaky toys as horns. *Rain (again) *Ancient stuff so common its commonplace *Almost getting mugged.
One thing that was way cool was a protest. We were happily walking down the street and then about 50 young men came sprinting past in single file carrying flaming torches. The military were just running along side them, one soldier was even smiling. I still dont know if it was a this is ridiculous smile or a wait until I get my hands on you and see what I do with that torch smile, but it felt like the Olympic torch relay on speed. There was even one straggler who came panting along a few minutes later, appearing more exhausted and sheepish than pissed-and-ready-to-fight-the-man.
There was a central circle of guys with this massive bonfire in the middle of an open area. One dude was yelling like crazy and waving a newspaper. At this point we decided to steer away from this area. As far as I could tell the purpose of the demonstration was to campaign for more copies of Chariots of Fire in the video store.
After Kathmandu, we flew to Pokhara on Yeti Airlines. I know what youre thinking, and sadly, no the flight attendant wasnt a yeti, but a mild mannered young Nepali girl. Obviously we are looking in to suing for false advertising.
Its prudent to mention the trip from the airport to our hotel, which I think introduced us to Pokhara beautifully and also sums it up well.
Our hotel in Kathmandu organised an airport transfer for us. The transfer was two dudes with mountain bikes (Maoist party country wide strikes so no cars). We rode (slowly) whilst the hotel staff walked along and told us which way to go. On our way we passed what appeared to be a cow ordering from a food stand. Yeah. This place is chilled.
The lake is stunning, and the restaurants serve good food (including steaks so big that they could only come from a Woolly Mammoth.... or a Yeti hmmmm ).
Ill write a separate post on the Trek we just completed and the people of Pokhara and Nepal, as they deserve an entry unto themselves.
After hopping off the smallest plane on the quickest flight ever (just 25 mins!) we emerged in the smallest terminal building ever, and found ourselves in Pokhara. We watched as the luggage handlers unloaded our packs from the plane and pushed them in a trolley to the building where they got handed to us directly without need for a conveyer belt! Wed come to Pokhara see the beautiful Himalayas and to experience what had been described to us on all accounts as a peaceful, beautiful, chill-out place to spend time in Nepal. Wed organized an airport transfer with our hotel so when we emerged from the terminal building we expected to be greeted by our hotel with a sign or something with our name on it instead there were a few guys hanging out at the entrance gate, so we walked to them and they asked us if we were staying at their hotel, which we were. The town seemed to be really, really quiet. Then, we were told that there was a strike- these happen often in Nepal due to Maoists making political demands usually- so therefore there were no cars, no motorbikes or anything allowed on the roads except for bicycles. This really was a peaceful place! The guys whod come to meet us for our airport transfer had brought pushbikes, but Mal and I had two big backpacks and two day-packs between us, so the bikes were not much good. So, some poor porters carried our packs, we rode the bicycles and the guys from the hotel walked with us as we headed to our hotel in town about 20km! It was a most amusing start to our laid-back stay in Pokhara.
We explored the town itself and both decided it reminded us a bit of a seaside town in Australia but on a lake and in Nepal! Which means there were sacred cows randomly strolling down the street, and people cooking corn over small coals, and men pushing chat (snack) carts and ice-cream stalls with bright umbrellas providing some shade. Another special thing about Pokhara is the backdrop of the Himalayas or so Ive been told anyway! The monsoon rainy season is here and so instead of seeing the massive snow-capped Himalayas we could see only grey, fluffy clouds which cover them, so the mountains remained elusive.
Despite the absence of the Himalayas- I know they are there from the posters and postcards sold everywhere in town- Pokhara is still beautiful in a mystical and magical way. The air is clear, the food is cheap, and the people are uber-friendly.I love the children here- they are soooo cute and are all-smiles. I watched some children playing together on some grass, and it took me back to my own childhood which didnt involve computer games as a form of entertainment. These little cuties crouched in frog position and had a hopping race which resulted in squeals of laughter and no clear winner, but all good fun!
We got sorted out for a two-day, one-night trek within minutes of arriving in town- our hotel manager was an efficient man only all too willing to help us with anything. One benefit of low season is we get good prices on things, so we agreed to the trek the next day.
We had to get up at dawn- yep, 4:30am but it was in vain. The idea was for us to go to Sarangkot to watch the sunrise over the Anapurnas, but on this day it was pouring rain and all we saw was clouds and rain and fog. We rested under the shelter of a little tea house and waited out the rain and then continued our trek. We walked 15 km the first day, around a ridge and through small villages where we were always greeted by delighted hellos! and peaceful namaste! from adorable little kids in the villages. Some were cheeky and would hold out their hands asking for pens or sweets or money, others were quite desperate and wanted our empty water bottles. But most were happy children just being kids. Sometimes Id here the little voice saying hello before Id see the smiling child sitting behind a tree or a fence. Often the really small children would say namaste and greet me with their hands in prayer position and it just melted my heart!
The villages all seemed very poor but essentially really happy. Maybe that was something to do with the ganja plants that seemed to grow wild everywhere almost like a well a weed Seriously, every home had a huge tree growing out the front and on roadsides everywhere there were little plants just growing! I imagine the agricultural life is a tough one, with the methods for growing rice still quite traditional, using bullocks to plough the rice plots and manual labour to plant the seeds. Every village we walked through the houses looked well-kept and there were smiling happy faces, music was playing from stereos, children were playing, adults were chatting and gossiping rural life, but not an unhappy one!
We stayed at a small guest house the first night, it was a rainy miserable afternoon and was perfect for doing nothing. Our guide showed us the delights of a drink called roxy which is an alcohol made from millet- it looks like vodka and tastes like grass and is really potent!
We walked through jungle the next day, all downhill, which killed my knees, but I got through it. It was really a lush forest and beautiful. We walked around the Phewa Lake and all the way back into town, stopping at a few little snack shops and tea houses along the way. We tried a local delicacy of small sardine-like fish in a batter and fried. They were whole fish with head and tail still attached so I was a bit unsure about them, but I did have a taste and they were pretty good. We were able to observe the rice being harvested for much of the second days walk, with the vast fields all being tended to by local men and women and the bullocks. At the end of this days 15km walk I was really dragging my feet. So unfit from riding the motorbike everywhere in Hanoi! We had a well-deserved beer and the next day I got a massage from a swami which was amazing and which really got into my sore points.
Our final day in Pokhara we were finally treated to a glimpse of the Himalayas! The morning of our departure was relatively clear and the clouds dissipated to reveal a huge massive mountain capped with snow! Couldnt believe that it was hidden behind clouds all this time! Really beautiful and magnificent! We got to see more from the plane on the way back to Kathmandu too and the breathtaking views are ones I definitely want to see again! Weve resolved to return to Nepal to do it properly in the next two years.
But hey its Varanasi so its to be expected. But first, Pokhara:
Heavenly settings, great cheap food and lovely people. Our trek was great. It rained a lot but thats okay because then we felt more intrepid and cool hiking down a mountain in the wet (except for when we slipped and fell on our asses oh and Simone got to wear a poncho I accidentally left mine in Hanoi so I wore a 5 foot long plastic bag. I hope that adds to the intrepid factor?). The fact that we were at cloud level for a lot of the trek made it misty and mystical, and it was never boring trying to find the weed plants. The best one we saw was over 8 feet high. Sweet. It was great having a local guide. We just roamed randomly through the mountains around Pokhara. He took us through villages that I think have never/rarely seen white people. Sounds crazy but there is so many little micro villages EVERYWHERE that its actually not so unbelievable. Each house has goats. Its like their cash. Whenever they need cash, they go in to town and sell a goat. Good stuff.
The clouds parted and we finally got to see the Anapurna range on our last day just before we left. One glance is enough to confirm that were gonna come back here within a year or two and complete the Anapurna circuit. Thats a three week trek and you get to a maximum elevation of 5416 metres. Apparently its not too hard as long as youre fit. Tabs and Anna, youve been to Nepal so Im sure you know what I mean when I say that even when you cant see the mountains, you can feel this massive presence behind the clouds, and I can only imagine what it would be like to be amongst those awesome ranges.
So we caught Yeti again to Kathmandu (still no Yetis onboard. Case for suing is strengthening) and then another flight down to Varanasi... Bloody hell, thats like 5 flights in 9 days
Varanasi.
Im sure Sim will write a good descriptive entry on Varanasi, so Ill just mention the other stuff. It stinks, youll step in cow, bull, goat and possibly human poop every other step, its hot, and its AMAZING. We stayed by the Ghats on the Ganges, where they burn the dead bodies and where people come to bathe. This is the most holy place in India, a focal point for almost a billion Indians worshipping a religion as old and rich as Christianity. And because Hinduism permeates all facets of their life, being at the epicentre is truly spectacular. Old Rajs tried to outdo each other by building bigger and more spectacular Ghats. Big ceremonies occur twice daily, bodies are burning 24 hours per day, with chants blaring over loudspeakers. People mill everywhere. Cows, bulls, goats and emaciated dogs roam in the alleys. Hundreds of homeless people sleep on the concrete whilst we look down from the comfort of our hotel room. Enormous piles of logs lie everywhere to feed the endless stream of bodies requiring cremation. All the kids are playing cricket. Everyone seems happy. Ill leave the Ghats at that because to go into anymore detail is going to require many pages to even make a scratch of the surface of a good description.
One thing before I go: We took a rickshaw out to the Hindi University. I cant think of a more p.c way to put this, but you know how they show Osama Bin Laden in South Park, with the wavy arms and funny way of walking? And sometimes in old Bugs Bunny/Disney cartoons they would show Indians as these gangly people with wobbly heads? Well the Rickshaw rider dude was just like that. He kicked his legs out randomly and wobbled his whole body while he rode and he spat out his Betel nut and talked to us at the same time. It was just like watching one of the first Mickey Mouse toons. He was a cool guy.
Oh and I tried Betel Nut. Yummo. I even got a Please come again. Thats the trifecta.
Were in Agra now after an epic 17 hour train journey. Just saw the Taj (at a distance) in the clear sky, during a dust storm and in the pelting rain in that exact and brief order. Tomorrow were actually going to go in and see what all the hullabaloo about this place is about.
Okay peace all.
Bells are clanging from the funeral pyre on the ghat of the River Ganga (Ganges). My hotel room is a peaceful sanctuary from the chaos of noise and people outside. The aircon room is also reprieve from the heat, which is in the 40s and is sweltering and energy sapping. Its so hot and humid that just sitting causes beads of sweat to trickle down my back and for droplets to form on my forehead and for the water to slide down my arms, my spine, my face.
My belly is full from a deluxe thali which was so big I guiltily could not eat it all. The compartmentalized metal tray with a chickpea curry and potatoes and tofu and paneer and rice and raita and papadum and naan are there before me and I know from the outset it is too much for me to consume, especially in this heat. Eyes were bigger than my stomach I guess.
Im on my balcony, which I am standing on warily after a monkey scratched me whilst standing on it earlier in the day- it took me totally by surprise as I was talking to Mal, randomly scratching me for no reason at all. So I am cautious- once bitten, twice shy- but it seems to be a monkey-free time of night, so I am watching the mele take place on the ghat below my balcony. People are wandering, some are still bathing, sadhus (holy men) are meditating, some kids are playing cricket (how they love this sport here in India!), theres cows meandering, goats rock hopping and chewing on whatever rubbish takes their fancy (strange creatures), there are men sitting and drinking chai, women are watching their children swim in the river, people are calling out to one another, there is chanting from the Manikarnika Ghat as well as the bells which seem to toll louder, clearer than the rest of these sounds.
This Manikarnika Ghat is known as the burning ghat and is the place where Hindus are taken upon their death to be cremated. Mal and I had earlier watched the interesting funeral practice take place from a viewpoint above the ghat and had a young guy talk us through it. Within 24 hours, the family applies for the body to be burned on the ghat, and so long as it was a natural death, it will be approved. The body is carried on a bamboo stretcher through the old town, then it is dunked into the Ganges, then laid to rest on firewood logs which have been weighed out earlier, calculated carefully so there is just enough wood for the 2-3 hours it takes for the body to turn to ashes. The family will sometimes swathe the body in ghee for better burning, or sprinkle nice-smelling sandalwood shavings onto the body before a dom, the men who light the fires, do their duty. Only men watch the ceremony, with women being involved in taking the ashes out and sprinkling them into the Ganges later on. It is an intricate and interesting ceremony which I feel lucky to have been able to view. Its such an intimate thing which occurs in such a public place. There are anywhere up to 15 bodies being burned at one time, and this practice takes place 24 hours a day, every day, on this ghat in the Varanasi.
Varanasi is intense. I know from previous trips to India that this is a country which is not easy going to travel through, but here things take on a new kind of intensity. Its perhaps a culmination of everything that makes Varanasi- the great Ganges which is holy in the eyes of most here, and which provides water for everything to the locals. It is the buildings and the ghats themselves which are ancient and provide a focal meeting place for the religious. It is the seething humanity which seems so great here, and also a sense of mystery. Whilst most people seem friendly, my instincts also tell me to be aware and alert and to not trust everyone at face value straight away- not always the best way to think when traveling, but maybe Ill feel less uptight after a bit longer here. It all seems so much more chaotic than Vietnam, but maybe Im just out of my comfort zone. Maybe I am still trying to relax from the ride from the airport. We got picked up from the airport from a driver who couldnt stop belching, all the while swerving to narrowly miss a head-on collision but all done with such deft and precision that I am in awe whilst shuddering at the same time. There is not as much traffic on these roads as in Vietnam but it is a lot more erratic! Its also grubbier, with filth pretty much everywhere from the river itself to all the ghats and the old towns crazy winding alleys and backstreets. Its not noisier but seems much more crowded many new sights, sounds, smells to really adapt to.
First thoughts for the first few hours enjoy the pics.
Love Sim xoxoxo
Hed struck up a conversation with us as we sat on one of the ghats on the Ganges, known as the Great Mother Ganga to the locals. We were watching the sunset rituals of the locals, who were busy washing their clothes, taking a bath, swimming, boating or were also just sitting and watching and chatting. Humanity is everywhere and all around us. It seems raw, real, honest; maybe its the way people perform what Westerners would view as indoor activities outside, in the view of all, and the carefree way that people seem to get by here, despite obvious poverty.
In any case, a strong-looking man who introduces himself to us as Raj is simply talking to us about general everyday things, his studies, our holiday, his family, our jobs, his jobs. This guy is one of the first who hasnt tried to push anything on us. The whole walk along the ghats from one end of the river to the other, we are hassled. Ive learnt over my years of traveling as a solo female to use a battle-hardened stare of disinterest when being haggled by beggars, postcard sellers, trinket hawkers, rickshaw wallahs and young boys trying to lure me to their fathers or uncles or brothers shop just to look. Mal has still to master this stare, and he seems to catch the eye and strike up a conversation with everyone so that we soon have a small trail of henna box hawkers, boat rowers and kids walking with us. We somehow managed to escape them and had found a quieter place to try and enjoy the sunset.
Im surprised by the size of the Ganges. I thought it would be bigger, but then Raj points out that the monsoon is yet to arrive, and that after the rains, the banks will expand to a house he indicates far in the distance, and that we wont be able to sit on the terraced steps we are now sitting on at this time. I can definitely imagine a much mightier Ganges!
Just as our conversation with Raj is coming to an end, Mal asks him- do you work out at the gym? Raj replies- Just the natural gym, from taking people out on my boat. Aha! So Raj was a Ganga River boatman. He used this nice transition to offer us his services, and we said maybe for tomorrow.
So of course, the next day we wanted to take a sunset boat cruise so we went looking for Raj, as he had seemed a nice, decent guy who rowed tourists on his hired boat to pay for his studies. We waited where wed met Raj the night before and it didnt take long for him to find us. We negotiated a fair price and took off onto the River which is the spiritual hub for Hindu people and where 600,000 Indians bathe every day.
From our boat we can easily, and without the touts hassling us, view life as it happens along the Ganga banks. The sun is setting and we chat to Raj and his friend who also came on board for the ride. The next few hours with these two young guys taught us more about Indian, particularly Hindu, culture than we could otherwise have learnt in our far too brief stay in Varanasi.
Rajs friend wants to be a Westerner, he tries to think and act like a Westerner, has dreams of marrying a Western girl and wants to live in America or Australia. These friends are like chalk and cheese. Raj reminds his mate that he was born an Indian, is an Indian and how could he forget his religion, especially whilst on the most holiest of rivers? Its fun to hear their banter and to give our two cents. These two boys were great company, and made us both laugh and feel at ease in a place where it is difficult to relax and let your guard down. The devout and proud Indian and wild and innocent would-be Westerner made our night!
Raj tells us about the history of the Ganga River, and then informs us that alcohol is banned along the River and in the old town, but that it is perfectly legal and accepted to smoke marijuana. At first we disbelieve, but then we are told a story that explains that Shiva, or was it Vishu?, (there are too many gods and their incanations for me to keep track of!) smoked the poison and breathed it out into the Ganges, so therefore, it is accepted for humans to also do so. Fair enough! Raj tells us that many people sit and smoke at sunset, and the next day I am actually alert to the scent and notice a spliff or two being passed around between friends. The government allows the sale of weed and hash through government emporiums that pay taxes on the marijuana they sell, thus legalizing it. Its ok to buy from these places, but to sell one must have a permit. Of all things, I am surprised to learn this!
We are treated to a riverside view of the nightly gaanga aarti performance which is a Hindu ceremony where people come to worship and watch several Hindu priests perform various dances with lights and smoke, there is prayer, chanting singing, and it is a feast of energy. The idea is to unit the people of all creeds and to cleanse the Mother Ganga. Were also privy to both Raj and his friends devotion, with each of them at times praying and splashing the purifying Ganges water onto their faces. Their belief in the cleanliness of the Ganges is amazing; there is no way I would even dip my toes into the filthy looking water, although they are both adamant it is pure, clean and say they have never become sick despite swimming in it since they were small kids. I guess it all comes down to belief.
It is impossible not to get wrapped up in the spirituality of the place. Yes, it is a dirty place and is overcrowded; but if you look beyond its surface, Varanasi is an ancient place where many ancient rituals have and always will be performed. The holiness of the town and river can definitely be felt; the history can be seen in the ancient ghats built by kings two centuries ago; and religion is all pervading with every step you take. There are so many temples, so many sadhus and holy people, so many pilgrims and true believers who worship here that the sense of spirituality and religion is everywhere.
After our boat ride our new friends took us for chai tea at their favourite haunt; and I averted my eyes for about two minutes to turn around and find Mal and Raj enjoying baan, which is a betel nut and mint concoction that men in Uttar Pradesh seem to enjoy sucking on. They showed us a great place to eat dinner and left us on a rush from such a great, informative and friendly evening. Often, its all about the people you meet when you travel that can really make a place!
We got in contact with our friend Ally so we have somewhere to stay until Glastonbury. Will write more later about our epic train journey in India and the Taj and London, but for now we have some stuff to do. Peace all
We arrived in Agra from Varanasi after an epic train journey which was meant to take 12 hours, getting us at Agra at 6am, but turned into a 17.5 hour journey that got us in at 11:30am! We never thought we would get there, but we talked to lots of Agra locals on the ride and they kept us entertained and provided us with good advice. It was soooo good when the chai man came on at one platform and we could enjoy the tea from a pottery cup which made everything seem much better!
Shortly after our arrival in Agra, the same thing happened that for some weird twist of fate has happened to us on arrival in every city from Kathmandu, Pokhara to Varanasi. No sooner had we arrived and the first torrential rain of the monsoon season came! It was 47 degrees when we arrived in Agra, but the rains broke by the afternoon, cooling things down to a slightly bearable 30 degrees, but not before the most amazing, huge dust storm I have ever experienced! It was wild! The sky was green, there was dust blowing, creating a haze everywhere, and I swear there was dust in every orifice of y body after being among it.
I can actually say I have seen the Taj Mahal in all weather conditions- the intense heat, in a dust storm, on a cloudy day and also in torrential rain! We couldnt visit the Taj on Friday due to it being closed but we viewed it in all its glory on Saturday.
It was as awesome and beautiful as I imagined it to be! It is so amazing to think that this was built so many centuries ago withy minimal equipment and just forces of people. Its white marble still glistens and the intricate carvings which see semi precious stones inlaid into the marble and other flowers etched from the marble make it all the more incredible.
We were at the Taj when a torrential downpour hit and we got to just sit and watch as the palace got a huge wash. The rain was really intense but beautiful. Everyone was so excited that the rains had come at last, as the heat had been very intense for weeks and things could now start to cool down a bit.
We were kinda disorganized for the last leg of out trip. We were still in Agra and had to get to Delhi in time for our 2am flight, We thought it wouldnt be a problem, there are trains all the time etc. Anyways we left it all to the last minute and got to the train station at 4pm and the only tickets we could get to Delhi were 2nd class non-reserve which are pretty much general admission tickets. We were told it was just 2.5 hours so we were not worried
Turns out we had a very interesting, memorable trip to Delhi. We were crammed, literally, with hundreds of Indian passengers with allour luggage, squashed in the part if the carriage which joins to the next part of the carriage right next to the toilet. There was no room to even turn around. We were crammed in like sardines. It was easily 40 degrees and there was not even a whiff of a breeze, even when the train was zooming by in motion, as there were just too many people. We had to stand like this for 5.5 hours!!! It was funny we were such a curiosity to the locals, and one guy was incredulous- Why are you in here? He asked us. Why arent you in the AC carriage? We made friends with all the men around us, I got groped a few times by lurid, festy men, but other than that it was ok except for being really hot, steamy, sweaty and tiring by the end of it. Really it is quite hilarious in hindsight and its nice to know we left India in true Indian style! One of those good journey stories that you are glad you dont have to ever do again!
By the time we got to Delhi it was 10:30pm and we had to go straight to the airport to check in etc. We got our 5am flight to Frankfurt, then another flight to Heathrow, London, and eventually we stopped traveling sometime on Sunday afternoon (earlier Monday morning according to our body clocks) at Alisons place in London. Wooh. What an epic journey it was!
Mal Says: Smashed-on-berry at Glastonbury
Or more specifically, smashed on strawberry cider. As expected, Glastonbury was a complete blow-out. Im sure that weve significantly shortened our life spans within those five days. This is why adjectives such as emphysematous, disconcerted, discombobulated and profligate exist. I wont go in to much detail since Im sure youve all been to a festival or two, but the first thing that has to be mentioned about Glastonbury is its sheer SIZE. Seriously check out an aerial photo of it.. Its literally a temporary city. And of course the mud really cant be sidestepped in any way. Gumboots are a necessity.
Highlights were Bjork, Pendulum, Chemical Brothers, Fat Freddys Drop and Iggy Pop. Bjork really rocked the house.
Another highlight was Crazy-Naked-Ass-Man. We first saw Crazy-Naked-Ass-Man in the 2 hour long bus queue when we got off the train. At the time he was fully clothed but easily noticeable by his Faith-No-More-Defeating permed afro-pouf. Anyway, Crazy-Naked-Ass-Man then became That Guy You See at every moment in the festival, usually dressed in nothing but a black thong, carrying a 20 foot tall flag in the freezing cold. Sometimes he wore a torch on his head. Good stuff. I think Sim got a photo. Check below. We saw his friends get off the bus on our way back from the festival but no Crazy-Naked-Ass-Man. Its all good though, apparently they employ staff to look after the numerous lost souls who wander around the festival grounds in the following days.
There was one death. Not bad for a festival of its size, especially considering the amount of drugs everyone was doing.
A few other awesome things: Oxygen recovery bar, the outfits, the constant shitty weather, social vibe akin to Woodford, artwork, massive mechanical controllable robots, 7% pear and strawberry cider and free camping gear at the end of the festival (literally 90% of the festival goers leave EVERYTHING behind. Im seriously not joking. Look at the photos we took at the end of the next day. Those tents were all abandoned, with sleeping bags, air mattresses, beers and some other surprises inside.). Being cheap bastards we scavenged heaps :)
Ill leave it at that but as always there is heaps more to describe. For now Im completely shagged, and I have a uni exam tomorrow!!
Peace
Malcolm
Ive finally had a chance to sit down and breathe after the big festival and can finally tell everyone about it all, and share the pictures too (there are some that I took on a disposable yet to be developed...)
First, the abridged version:
Mud (of course), tents, amazing music, 166,000 people, no showers for 6 days, Welly (gum) boots, hoards of people, Lost Vagueness, dancing, rain, more mud, sunsets, sunrises, wastefulness, pear cider, friendship flags, amazing food from around the world, freezing cold weather, Stone Circle, festival flares, chats with awesome random people, making new friends, disgusting toilets where you can see peoples feet and smell peoples poop, mud wrestling, ice cream, umbrellas, glo sticks, ponchos, recharging phones by cycling a bike, giant nests, funny signs, a wish tree, Wet Wipe showers, an oxygen bar, feeling soggy but not in spirit, waking up in a ball at the bottom of the tent, a massive lineup of bands, squelching, weird costumes, walking for miles to get between gigs, laughing, getting drunk, silent disco, people getting high, trying to find friends but finding everyone else instead, scavenging, forgetting about fashion for the sake of staying dry, nighttime and daytime shenanigans, getting stuck in the thick mud and having to be pulled out, discovering new music, tent cities, getting lost, getting wet, becoming one with the mud and everyone else, feeling exhausted but working through it, puddles the size of ponds, trying to identify people when everyone looks the same in a poncho and welly boots, huge stages and screens, lots of rubbish, mud boats, missing out on secret gigs, Festival Guide, cheering when the sun begins to shine, pretty sunsets, too-soon sunrises, long journeys getting there and out, mazes, random shit galore that is Glastonbury
It sure is something special when the music is only one small part of a music festival! I will write a longer, more detailed entry with my reviews of the actual bands and music when I am not utterly exhausted.
Love to all
Sim xoxoxo
Glastonbury was basically 6 days of pure hedonism and fun! Mal and I left London on Wednesday morning and it seriously took us ALL DAY to finally get to the festival grounds. Wed had to line up for hours at the train station to get on the shuttle bus, then it took 2 hours to get from the station to the festival due to the traffic, only for us to then have to return to almost where wed started from so we could pick up our tickets from the international collection point! So then we decided it would be quicker to walk to 6 miles rather than wait for the bus and then sit in it for another 2 hours wouldnt you know it .the police had diverted the traffic so there no longer was any traffic jams, and about 5 shuttle buses zoomed past us as we trudged along with all of our luggage through the beautiful green rolling pastures of the English countryside. Phew! It was so good to finally get inside and to get our tent all pitched. We were scared of being flooded out, so found a nice little spot under a tree on a hill kind of near the main Pyramid stage. I was amazed as how many people had arrived already on the Wednesday. The festival doesnt officially start until Friday, but it seems more and more people can see the advantages to arriving early.
For us, this is certainly when the fun began. We wandered the MASSIVE grounds on the first night, discovering fields with huge white flags, a large expanse known as the Stone Circle where there is a Stonehenge-type field with views out over the entire festival. At night time, standing up here and seeing the lights which form the border of the mini city that is Glastonbury it makes you realise just how huge the site is. Everyone gathers at night time in the Stone Circle with festival flares, huddled in little social circles talking, drinking, smoking and getting up to mischief. Glastonbury is a great festival for those with entrepreneurial spirit. We saw a girl in a bikini (who must have been freeeeeezing as the temperature dropped to lower than 10 degrees most night with a biting wind to boot) selling tequila shots complete with lemon and salt- 3 pounds for a shot I saw girls resplendent in glo sticks selling those with free vodka jelly shots other people were offering happy gas measured out in balloons and of course there were the nitrous bulbs being offered for sale everywhere. Nobody seems to care what anybody does once they are within the sacred walls of the festival.
It was great to have the whole Thursday free without music to go to. It allowed us an entire day to explore. There is really sooooo much to do and see without any music to be worrying about! There is Lost Vagueness, where there is a casino with a strict glamorous dress code (I am not sure how this could be accomplished by the end of Thursdays endless rain and mud), a vegetarian diner where the booths are old dodgem cars, a Chapel where nuns and priests perform non-legally binding divorces and weddings, as well as an oxygen bar which we checked into sometime over the weekends shenanigans.
There was also the Green Fields where there was a little spiritual maze to follow the 9 steps to a holy and wholesome life, as well as all sorts if environmentally conscious people with stalls offering things such as free mobile phone charging which you did yourself by cycling, or solar powered charging, and there was even a chill-out space with camp fire by a creek. Among all of this were various structures- a giant Ark, giant nests, animatronics people, a Stonehenge made of porta loos and graffitied by famous artist Banksy, a cow in a tree, a cow made from milk bottles and many other random things. As well as the vast randomness that was everywhere, we also discovered the potent and delicious pear and strawberry flavoured cider. At 7% alcohol and at 3 pounds a pint it was excellent value and we got quite tiddly by the time we discovered the Dance Field where the tents playing dance music (funnily enough) could be found. The Brothers Cider bar started off by selling 2 litre bottles of cider but by the end of Thursday these had been deemed banned by the local council what party poopers!
We never got to the Circus or to the new area The Park much, but I feel that we explored the festival quite fully in the time we were there. The thing that I find hilarious is that there are no showers available at the festival (well, there is one shower block in the Kidz Field which apparently people queued in line for up to 7 hours to use!) so for those of us who arrived on Wednesday, we were very stinky and dirty by the time we left on Monday. Wet Wipes were the saviour of the day and I am now an expert at the Wet Wipe Shower. Sometime on Thursday night we met up with some friends of Alisons so we had buddies for most of the festival, which was great! Paul, Kristy and Anna were great value festival companions but we lost contact by Sunday when mobile phone batteries were dead and network connections quite dodgy.
On Friday the music began. It actually began at 10:40am and I know this because it came roaring out of the Pyramid Stage and I got to listen to it from my tent as I tried to sleep. I had to get our of bed though, as at 1:30pm Modest Mouse were playing. Wouldnt you know it though? The biggest, most torrential downpour of rain began about 20 minutes before they were due to come on, and there were thousands of sodden, wet fans standing at the Other Stage as we waited for the show to begin. This is where ponchos, umbrellas and welly boots became a necessity. The rain didnt really stop much after this initial downpour. There would be intermittent spurts of sunshine throughout the coming days, but it was mostly grey, cold and rainy. Whenever the sun did burst through a cloud, people would cheer wildly and it was quite funny how spirited people got over the weather!
A unique thing to Glastonbury which is actually a great idea, is groups of friends making massive flags which they would carry around and hold up. At first I thought people were being patriotic or supporting their fave band, but I soon realized these flags also held the purpose of groups of friends being able to find each other in the crowd. Whilst we didnt have a flag of our own, other peoples flags still remained handy landmarks when trying to look for someone among a see of identical looking people in identical ponchos with hoods over the head, revealing only the eyes, nose and mouth on peoples faces! One such flag with The Cougars written on it actually got pointed out during the performance by Bright Eyes which I saw, with Conor Oberst accidentally bagging out the band which this flag represented. Oops! At least the performance was excellent and this is a CD I now wish to buy.
After Modest Mouse performed I checked out the festival on my own for most of the day while Mal rested (he was very tired the poor thing) and by the late afternoon I had found our mates and I got to enjoy a great performance by a group of African singers called Toumani Diabate and Symmetric Orchestra. These soulful singers and colorful dancers were so bright and cheerful to listen to, and we were right up the front so had a great vantage point. Prior to this group coming on we got to watch people sliding, riding and floating in a blow-up boat which was the ideal vehicle for traversing the now sloppy mud filled Jazz World stage. You just have to make the most of the mud really, it is impossible to avoid.
More Brothers Cider, more random wandering and people watching and then I was reunited with Mal for Cat Empire! We didnt realise they would have such a huge following. The whole Avalon Stage tent was jam-packed (probably with kiwis and Aussies) and the guys played an awesome hit-filled set which had us on a major high which only continued onto the next act which turned out to be a highlight for me of the festival- Bjork.
Clashes at festivals suck .and it would have been easy to go see Arctic Monkeys or Damian Marley or Fatboy Slim in the same time-slot but I am so glad we didnt! Bjork was absolutely amazing. She belted out her psychedelic and melancholy rock ballads and then the show became an almost techno sounding bassy booming... well, to take her own term- a hyperballad! There was a green lazer that shot through the sky and among the wet and mud I was completely mesmerized by the sound and the sights. Bjork herself was wearing a gaudy outfit and she had back-up singers with massive flags from their heads and it was all completely surreal and totally amazing. Cant believe I didnt make a movie of it on my camera! Such a buzz!
After this performance we were buzzing, but had nowhere to go until we discovered the Silent Disco. What a novel idea! The organizers cant allow too much sound after midnight so as not to disturb the neighbours and this was an awesome solution. At first, all we saw was a video screen in one of the tents but no sound then we heard a random Wooooaaahhh! coming from the crowd so we investigated and entered we were handed headphones which we put on and then we got it. The wireless headphones played the tunes being played like a movie screen soundtrack! So everyone was dancing away in silence! We found out later that there were a few different audio channels so some people were listening to one thing, and other people to another such a cool concept!
Then it was Saturday .again awoken at 10:30am to the sounds on the Pyramid Stage. Today we decided to take it easy in the daytime casually we awoke, got some food of which there was an amazing selection. We tried everything in the space of the festival from greek mezze platters to jacket potatoes to Mexican burritos to falafals to Chinese to Square Pies (Mal, not me). We got coffees, we explored, and then decided to partake in a 5 minute boost of pure oxygen injection at the oxygen bar. Why not? I am not sure if the flavoured, and aromatherapy style oxygen gushing through my nose actually DID anything, but it was kinda fun!
After this we met up with our friends and went to see the first of the days music- Lily Allen. We really just wanted to see what the hype was all about, but it was actually a lot of fun. Lilly Allen is truly a potty mouth, and I think I heard every expletive under the sun uttered by her lips. She came on stage wearing a pink dress, trainers, a hoodie, holding a cider in one hand and a cigarette in the other. You go girl! She was hilarious, her songs were happy and fun, and whilst she was shitting herself at performing on the main stage at Glastonbury which she says shes been attending since she was 5 weeks old, she managed to pull it off and got everyone bouncing around happily.
I think after this we missed a secret performance (one of many that happened over the festival) and I have vague recollections of drinking cider and then going to see Fat Freddies Drop with out tent neighbours. Fat Freddies had a massive following and the crowd went at least 5 people deep outside the Roots tent, so we had to slowly push ourselves forward just to see! They played all their faves and we had a good old boogie! Next we moved to the Other stage, saw part of the set by the Editors before another highlight- Iggy and the Stooges. Ive seen Iggy before, at a Livid festival a few years back, and had heard rave reviews of his performances at BDO last year. These kinda reviews come just because it is amazing how hard this guy can rock even though he is in his 60s. He is so thin and scrawny yet he is just so cool. Iggy even let hundreds of people up on stage with him- including our friends Kirsty and Paul!- and he jumped around and belted out tunes so that everyone in the crows was worked up into a frenzy and all that anyone could shout was Iggy! Iggy!. Awesome stuff!
By the time Sunday morning came, we could sleep through the early wake-up from the Pyramid stage (it was actually lovely to hear, as it was the National Youth Orchestra!), and couldnt even smell each others stink. The mud was at the stage where it was a tad annoying and we had to buy more wet wipes. The Glastonbury grounds had become a mud bath, and apparently people were breaking their ankles in the really thick mud which captured welly boots and required peoples legs to be pulled out so they could move! The rain was relentless, we awoke to the pitter patter on our tent every morning, and there was a real chill to the air. But the show must go on, and this is Glastonbury afterall! We were a little fragile, a bit emotional ya know, so we took it easy, checked out some talks, and one particularly moving one at Leftfield stage where a radical leftie Tony Benn spoke about the injustice of nuclear weapons. Then we watched another leftie, Billy Bragg, perform at Avalon before we moved as hastily as possible in welly boots through the mud to the Pyramid to see Dame Shirley Bassey who just looked magnificent in a pink dress and diamond studded boots! Talk about showbiz and sexiness from a true diva, she belted out her tunes to at least 100,000 people!
We stayed on here for the Manic Street Preachers who had a huge hometown Welsh following. They played some new stuff and some old stuff which I sang along to, but it was a hard slot for them right after the Dame had performed. Now, Mal and I were pumped and ready to party on hard for our last night. To start the evening of dance music was the excellent Dave Clarke who took me back to my old clubbing days in London. Then it was onto new dance tunes with Pendulum who rocked it out with their unique and awesomely catchy beats and tunes. They performed to a very packed out crowd that went way out of the tent to where entrepreneurs were selling special brownies unfortunately we were too slow on the uptake here! Our final gig for the festival was up against The Who. I couldnt be bothered battling the crowds and was more than happy to enjoy the sonic sounds of Chemical Brothers at the Other Stage who did not disappoint. It was bucketing with rain but it didn`t matter in the slightest! Everyone was out to PARTY! The Chemicals had a spectacle of a light show that involved a visual of a creepy (George Bush-esue??) clown during Push the Button as well as lazers, psychedelic swirls, dancing life-like people and many other crazy lights to accompany their pumping tunes of faves. What a way to end the biggest festival in the world but oh, all too soon!
Thank goodness the party didnt stop there! We found ourselves in the Greenpeace Bar where we hung out until sunrise and had some of the best fun of the festival. We chatted to soooo many cool people from Bristol, Cornwall and everywhere, and enjoyed the drum and bass beats playing which kept us from the bitterly cold air and torrential rain outside the tent. We had a great time here, and even on the way home as we sadly trudged back to the tent through the mud for the last time, we met some funny people including a random French duo who sang us a traditional song about cabbages. Quite odd but completely fitting.
The next day was slow. We were in no hurry. We could hear poor sods packing up their gear at 6am in the pouring rain and were glad to be cold but cozy in our tent which managed to remain dry and mud-free the entire festival. Woot! It was crazy. Once we finally emerged from our tent later in the morning, we realized that whilst all the tents remained, that they had been left abandoned. People literally just packed their bags and left the rest behind. Incredible. It was also very dirty, with sooo much rubbish everywhere. Must take weeks to clear up but Mal and I were both incredulous at the wastage. We ended up going scavenging! Some young guys had a wheel barrow full of beer, food, an ounce of weed theyd found among other goodies which they had found left behind. We got inspired and also went collecting. It was fun! We found 20 cans of beer, many cans of food, lights, bed rolls and we even dismantled a tent to take with us to Burning Man festival! It was great fun looting what we could fin- waste not want not eh?
The trip back to London was loooong. Shuttle to the train, two hour queue to get tickets and then we got hit with the biggest blow. It cost us an absolutely ridiculous 50 pounds for the train, but we had to pay it, and our train hit a tree branch and was delayed, and then we had to get a Tube and then a bus and we eventually made it Allys place just after dark at 10pm!!! We were bushed, beat, exhausted, wet, cold, muddy, but still on a buzz. What a wild 5 days where we experienced solidarity, friendship, randomness and funny times amongst some awesome music. Id do it all again in a second and maybe I will!! I`m now on a mission to find a European summer festival to top it....any suggestions?!
So weve been in London now for 5 days since getting back from Glastonbury and its been a flurry of activity. I pretty much got back and jumped into job hunting, and Mal got busy studying. We have both been exhausted since getting here .the traveling around town takes it out of you and I am sure were still suffering sleep deprivation from Glastonbury. Weve been staying with the beautiful Mia and her girlfriend Karen at their lovely London flat, which has been a really handy base for getting about town.
Yesterday, Mal and I had the day free from uni exams and interviews and we went adventuring around London. It was like walking the Monopoly board, starting at Waterloo, going down Embankment, checking out Westminster and the Abbey, Hyde Park and Green Park, Buckingham Palace, Trafalgar Square and then into the heart of the West End district where we found out the drama of yesterday. We had no idea London was on a high terrorist alert until we tried to walk down Haymarket, and then Regent Street, but they were all blocked off with police tape then when we discovered Picadilly Circus all blocked off we had to find out what was happening. Phew! Car bomb discovered before being detonated and another one was found at 3am today! So we skirted around that and explored Covent Garden and Leicester Square, had a pint of beer in the afternoon sun which randomly appeared after buckets of rain all day and then felt exhausted!! It was fun taking Mal around though, and took me back to me two years in London 5 years ago. I forgot just how much there is to see and do in London!
We actually got here to London at a superb time of year. Whilst the weather is constantly raining, so much so its even caused flooding in some regions, the TESOL industry reaches a peak in July. Now is when all the rich, spoilt European teens come to London for summer school. So it has been super, duper easy to get work for the summer period. I began job hunting on Tuesday and by end of Wednesday I was offered many jobs, and in the end it was just a matter of choosing the best school for the most money. I was about to choose a school called GEOS where Id be teaching 3 hours in the morning , doing excursions around London in the afternoons and then doing day tours on Saturdays .anyway as I was about to accept this job, I got a phone call from another school that runs summer courses around England, Ireland and Scotland. This guy randomly calls me and offers me a job in Portsmouth. I mentioned Mal and when he found out Mal was also a teacher, he offered us both jobs as a teaching couple! Easy as that!
After much discussion, analysis and thought, we decided that going to Portsmouth, which is a naval town about 2 hours south of London on the sea, was the best option for us. We are being provided with accommodation and meals for free, plus get paid the same as teaching in London 6 days a week, and we dont have to worry about paying for the expensive London transport or worry about accommodation here. So tomorrow were off!
We had our training sessions today and our concerns and fears about taking a leap of faith in this random offer of employment were dispelled and the school seems quite reputable and the program is actually well-written and thought-out. It is going to be hard work. We have to teach for 6 hours every day to mostly Italian teens but it should be fun enough, its something different from living in London and the best bit of all is that we get weekends off, so we can just travel 2 hours on a 6 pound coach fare up to London after work on Fridays and spend the weekend here with friends and go back down to Portsmouth on Sunday night. Sweet! Best of both worlds! Its always interesting seeing where the world takes us sometimes .
Hey all. Just making a quick and dirty entry (ooh la la! ) since we`re at an internet cafe and for once nobody in Portsmouth seems dumb enough to leave their wireless unsecured. We`re doing a summer teaching gig here and its a bit of alright. Portsmouth isnt exactly the uber cosmopolitan metropolis that London is (you see less berets and more beer guts here) but hey its traditional England and we are staying out of the financial trouble that is entirely easy to get into in London. We get accommodation and three square meals provided. When I say square I actually mean pear shaped, as in the shape that we will become by the time we leave, because most meals consist of roast, gravy, cheese, oil and mince in some particular combination.. Oh and some instant veggies of course. We get weekends off so we can still hit London. We`re teaching rich Italian kids, there was some Milan kids whose surnames are the same as those big Italian companies; Ferrero or Napolitana or Bruschetta or something like that.
Will hopefully write more later if we manage to score a free internet connection (you have to give up a firstborn child to join the wireless hotspots here). For now,
peace
Malcolm
PS: Oh I smashed my phone screen somehow so if you`re trying to call me I can`t read messages etc...
It was all a rather random turn of events, but here we are! In rainy and cold Portsmouth which is two hours south of London on a 5 quid coach fare. We are living here for free (accommodation and meals are provided in addition to our salary) teaching Italian teens summer school for an organisation called Language Study Centres http://www.lsc.ac/ who are looking after us just nicely. Initial concerns about dodginess and the like have been allayed and it is actually a sweet deal for us.
It`s also very weird. For the first time in 2.5 years, Malcolm and I are working the SAME hours! Not only that, but we`re also teaching the SAME classes on a zig-zag rotation timetable. We start and finish work together and have all this random spare time to explore Portsmouth. We haven`t done much yet as it has been raining heaps....so have ended up at the local pub across the road from our flat most evenings. Although we did discover a botanical gardens type place with an avery of cuteness with not just budgies, finches, doves and love birds, but also hamsters, rabbits and peacocks!
There does seem to be heaps of other stuff to do here though. Portsmouth is an historical naval town where there is a marina, with old restored ships to visit. These docklands have ships that were manned by King Henry and other interesting events. Portsmouth is Dickens` birthplace. It is only a short distance on the hydrofoil to Isle of Wight and there is a seaside to visit too (if it stops raining). We could also get a fast ferry (2 hours) to France from here if we so desired!
We`ve been watching the news and I am really absorbed in the terror threats and activity in London/Glasgow which seems to get more complicated every time we go to the pub or refectory where they play the Sky TV news channel non-stop. We even saw Johnnie on the news today talking about Brisbane Airport which was random, which definitely adds another link to the deepening puzzle. It is worrying where the world is going but we can`t let it take over our thoughts and movements too much, can we?
We`re teaching 6 hours a day, 3 hours in the morning and 3 in the afternoon- just teaching and no activities which is perfect. The kids are typical rich teens but seem ok so far, and I think we`re going to manage here just nicely the next few weeks. It is especially great that the coach fares are cheap to London, and we finish work at 5pm on Friday, so we can visit the city on the weekends- best of both worlds! The only downside is we don`t have ready internet access and the closest net cafe isn`t close to where we stay or work at all, so emails etc will be intermittent for a while.
Anyways life is good for us and hope it is for all of you too!
Love Sim xoxox
Hi ya!
The week is nearing an end and Mal has finally figured out a way to get some dodgy internet from our room. It is a wee bit uncomfortable actually using the computer in the awkward position which the computer needs to rest to actually get the connection, but it`s beter than nothing! The teaching here in Portsmouth is actually going ok, but we`re both exhausted and are looking forward to the weekend and half days next week. Looking forward to Canada the week after that even more!
The weather here can be described as nothing else but "changeable". It rains one moment and the sun comes out the next. Then the rain will pour down again while a brisk breeze blows and then the sun emerges with a rainbow. It`s chilly- I can`t believe the Brits call this summer!- and a bit depressing. The sun came out today and everyone was flocking towards it! I took these pics of Portsmouth the other day during an intermittent spell of sunshine at dusk (which is great here as it lasts for an hour!). It`s a typical small English town, quite interesting to be here and I look forward to exploring it more this weekend. Oh, we also have a flatmate now too. His name is Charlie and he`s from Liverpool/Manchester and he`s a great insight into English culture. Fun to hang out with after school.
I`m tired and need some sleep so bye for now!
Sim xoxox
Two weekends ago Mal and I headed into London for the weekend, rather than stay in Portsmouth, as Mal had some friends in London who he wanted to catch up with. I have been meaning to do an entry on the weekend all week, but the internet access (or lack thereof) makes it difficult at the moment. I miss not having a regular connection!
Anyways we headed in early in the morning and caught a coach to Victoria Station, one of London`s busiest. It was even more bustling than normal on this weekend, as there were a few major events happening in the heart of town, all of which was confounded by the high terror alert that the city was on. It was probably a crazy day for us to arrive really, wen there was the Tour De France time trials, a major music festival in Hyde Park, a Metallica Concert at Wembley Stadium AND the Wimbledon Finals all happening!
Mal was feeling unwell but the sun was shining, so we lay in Green Park in the sun for a few hours, then got in contact with Mal`s mate Som who came and met us and we watched the Tour De France thing for a while before we got bored and went to the pub for some pints. Later that night we met Mal`s other friends who were just in town for a day before heading back home to Oz after a trip through Europe. Ben and Catherine suggested doing the Jack the Ripper Walking Tour through the East End, which we did. It was alright, pretty interesting, but the delicious Indian dinner at Brick Lane afterwards was better!
We stayed with Mal`s friend Haj this night and then the next day I met up with my good friend Ally. It was so exciting that the sun was shining, and Ally and I roamed through the Spitalfield and Brick Lane markets for hours. It was loads of fun browsing the random bric-a-brac and stolen electrics, and cheap vintage swimsuits, random second-hand furniture and clothes. I ate some delicious market food too, the best being a Japanese savory pancake that was just divine and really different to anything I`ve eaten in ages.
We had a bit of a disaster leaving London in that we got locked out of Haj`s house where our bags were, but we eventually got in to get our luggage and onto another coach to get us home to Portsmouth. It was a hectic weekend, that wasn`t exactly smooth sailing, but we accomplished what we had come to achieve- catch up with mates- and we enjoyed the sunshine.
I think the weekend in London confirmed to both of us that we wouldn`t want to live in London permanently at this stage of our lives....the long transport times around town, the expense and the tiredeness that seems to occur in us the moment we arrive in London really overrides the excitement and cosmopoliton-ness of the city and what it has to offer people...it`s a fun place to visit but unless you`re wealthy the going is tough we reckon!
After the hectic weekend we`d had previous when in London, we decided to lay low and explore this funny little naval town we`re in this weekend. It was such fun! Mal and I have so much free time at the moment, it`s crazy, and we have been indulging in the opportunities to spend time together. This weekend was the first one we have had off entirely together in almost two years! We slept in, ate a delicious hot breakfast that wasn`t the canteen, and wandered around a precinct called Gun Wharf Quays. This area is a fairly posh part oft own that has been newly developed on the area previously used mainly as a port (hence the name of the town, eh?) Now the developed port boasts hundreds of outlet shops, retail stores, cafes, restaurants, cinema, bowling alley and even its very own giant spinnaker! The Spinnaker Tower dominates the skyline here and we just had to go up the lift to the top where there are views of...well...Portsmouth and the harbour. The coolest bit was actually a glass floor which was freaky to stand on and then look down at the vast space to the ground hundreds of metres below.
The sun was shining so we wandered along the esplanade to Southsea which is your typical English seaside town complete with dreadfully tacky funfair pier. We couldn`t resist a game of minigolf in which I am proud to say I kicked Mal`s butt in by many points. Funniest moment was Mal saying, "Watch me get this hole in one!" before hitting the ball backwards into a garden bed! It was a beautiful, hysterical moment.
There was a castle we were too stingy to pay entry to go into, we passed by the aquarium complex and decided it was probably pretty lame, and bumped into our flatmate Charlie at about the time we had decided it was beer o`clock so we enjoyed a sparkling cider in the sunshine.
Sunday we continued playing Portsmouth tourists and visited the historic dockyards where there are some really old warships and then went on a harbour cruise to see some of the really big, modern, currently in-use warships which are incredible to see. Unfortunately, we now feel like we`ve seen and done Portsmouth, and with the erratic weather we`re having at the moment (one moment it`s sunny then it rains) it`s difficult to plan what to do. We are only working mornings this week, and next Monday and Tuesday and then our stint here will be done!
So things are cruisy, we`re having fun, enjoying the free time and good life and preparing for Canada in a week and a half!
Love to all
Sm xo
Im pleased that our last weekend in Portsmouth was a memorable one. Well, in actual fact, for me Saturday was memorable only for a hellish hangover from too many ciders at our local on Friday night and our Sunday was actually spent at the Isle of Wight, which is a 20 minute ferry ride from Portsmouth. Details aside, our Sunday was fantastic. We slept in, got on the catamaran and enjoyed an afternoon of sunshine (would you believe!). The beach at the Isle is actually a golden, sandy one (as opposed to pebbles) and is quite beautiful. We strolled around the area of the island known as Rhyde, noting that the houses look old and very expensive. We found a column dedicated to the First Fleet which left from the beach we were standing on in 1777, which was pretty cool, and devoured an amazing fish and chip lunch with mushy peas and a cider to boot. Mal marvelled at the hovercraft and I relished in the sun and sand. To top off this great day, we even enjoyed a great dinner for a change. The usual canteen fare, as you all know from our constant complaining, leaves a lot to be desired for. On Sunday night, however, we were served leftovers from the university graduation ball the previous night and had amazing salads and desserts of a much better than usual quality (which is actually pretty degrading in itself- being served leftovers and the fact the canteen is capable of cooking good food, but doesnt!). We cant say were sad to be leaving Portsmouth on Tuesday afternoon, but our summer school stint served its purpose, we saved some money, and got to see how the rest of England lives outside of London. The teaching has been pretty fun, weve met some cool people, weve gained a few kilos and plenty of insights. This sleepy maritime town has even gained a notable statistic in our travels this year as being the place weve spent the longest period of time (three and a half weeks) after Hanoi (7 months)- now that deserves mentioning and remembering! Next stop: Montreal on Thursday!!
Well were about to leave Portsmouth and I think the best way to capture the feel of the town is to write nothing about it. So instead Im going to write about Spinnaker Tower, Portsmouths triumph. Previously I thought the Gherkin tower or possibly Angkor Wat or the Taj took the phallic cake for their penile palisades, but Spinnaker Tower has shafted these guys out of first place. The tower manages to combine penis and vagina themes (dare I even suggest the viewing platforms as the clitoris?). Doubt me if you will, check out the photos. If you still dont believe me, or now simply consider me a child, I asked a few people what their first impression was, and the response was always something like: A really, really big vagina.
To provide the final damning evidence, Id like to quote from some excerpts from actual tourist pamphlets. Replacing tower with vagina reveals the true dirty nature of the pervs who designed this genital giant.
What a view! If youre looking for a wow factor then enjoy the stunning views from the Vagina
Elegant, sculptured and inspired, the Vagina is a new national icon
And most damning of all: the Vagina is open to view
I rest my case.
Goodbye Portsmouth.
Mal and I arrived in Montreal on Thursday night to the welcoming arms of Rebecca and Jeannot! This was our first airport meet and greet since we left, and it was so nice to see some familiar faces and to be driven away to our "home" for the next few weeks. We`re being kindly put-up at Rebecca`s and Jeannot`s flat in the heart of Montreal and it is comfortable and just gorgeous! For those who don`t know, I lived with Rebecca in Australia in Paddington thre years ago when she was on holidays in Australia, and this is the first time we`ve seen each other in all that time! Lots of catching up to do, but it`s like we`ve never had so many years between chats. I had to pinch myself when it was only an hour after we`d arrived in Montreal and already I was sitting out the back on Rebecca`s balcony with a doobie in one hand, a beer in the other and a barbeque happening in the sun- perfect!
The time difference of 5 hours, plus a reasonable time for our flight, means that our jet lag isn`t too bad. However, last night was like pulling an all-nighter. We went to a bar to see one of the bands on Rebecca`s label play. I was excited as I`ve been listening to the group for a while and love their stuff. This night was a two person acoustic performance as opposed to the whole band, but the sweet, lilting tunes that tell an epic story sounded just as great and I even got to hear my favourite song. Thanks Orilia Opry for being a great indy band! Anyway, my 2am return home from seeing the music was for my body the equivalent to arriving home at 8am! So much had happened since my last sleep- I`d left London, had a 7 hour flight, arrived in Montreal, had dinner, gone to a show, all in the same 24 hours!
Got to have a huge sleep today and just lazed about and relishing the warm sunshine. It`s hot here, like a proper summer, not the wussy affair England has been putting on. We have been to the local pool to cool down and have eaten delicious bagels ith cream cheese and salmon and generally been layabouts while we plan our trip out east tomorrow. We`re going on a 10 day road trip to Rebecca`s dad`s cottage and to her hometown Moncton and also to Prince Edward Island which is meant to be beautiful, so should be a fun time!
Early departure in the morning and prob won`t be online for a few days...
Hey all. Having a great time on our roadtrip. We`ve played guitar around campfires, Canoed, had a million barbeques, eaten maple syrup, gone camping, heard the phrase "Oh my golly gosh" uttered in all seriousness, passed a million "moose crossing" signs and therefore pretty much experienced every Canadian cliche that exists. Sometime soon I`m expecting a Mountie to arrive on horseback on a distant hill, outlined by the dusky setting sun, who will then wave to us before jumping off his/her horse to wrestle a grizzly bear or something.
Seriously though so far this is a real highlight of the trip. Every day is sun, some form of seafood, followed by the beach or some trek, followed by beer, followed by more seafood.
Gotta go, I`m peeling and need to seek out a lotion of some description. Peace all.
I havent written anything in ages, as we havent been online. Weve been too busy road-tripping and beach slouching to get behind the computer! In the past ten days, we have travelled hundreds and hundreds of kilometres, transversing the seemingly un-ending Trans-Canada Highway from Montreal, to Belle Isle, then Prince Edward Island (P.E.I.), then back to the mainland for a stay in Shediac and finally Moncton in New Brunswick before returning to Quebec at last but all too soon.
In the ten days we were away, we did lots of driving. Well, actually, it was Jeannot who did ALL the driving while Rebecca, Malcolm and I sat back and watched the scenery zoom by whilst sucking on spliffs and munching on junk food :) But when not driving from place to place, we drank plenty of Tim Hortons coffee, enough to certainly keep the restaurant fast-food chain in business forever more. We were introduced to the Pizza Delight donair, and donair supreme wrapped in pizza crust. We saw many completely typical Canadian scenes which involved pine trees and rivers and lakes. We saw numerous squirrels! We passed by ginormous wooden country houses with manicured lawns. We stopped at many Irving fuel stations, the apparent conglomerate of out east in The Maritimes. We ate real Canadian maple syrup on French toast, OMG its sooo sweet. We saw many covered bridges. These seem to be a strangely Canadian construction, no-doubt necessary for the -30 degree winters which I find difficult to imagine in 30 degree summer heat. We didnt see any live moose despite being taunted by road signs along the way which indicated a necessary driving caution for these beasts although we did see a dead moose road kill, rather unpleasant. Weve seen sunsets and the full-moon rising. Weve had bonfires complete with marshmallows and hotdogs (veggie variety for me!). We have sunbaked til totally tanned all-over, and swum in various bodies of water from the Atlantic to a fresh-water lake. We camped. We invented a game to play on the beach called sand darts, played Frisbee and chucked a ball in the water. We have listened to over 30 hours of music in the car. We have gone walking through beautiful trails AND we travelled on the longest bridge in the world- 14km from New Brunswick mainland to PEI!
Amazing things we have consumed include: a delicious lobster feast at Jeannots parents place, where Mal and I learnt how to shell a whole lobster to get the most of the delicious meat; lobster rolls; seafood chowder, salmon steaks, calamari .you get the theme here! Weve also tried many new Canadian beers, all of which have been good. Phew! No wonder there has been no time to write!
Check out the photos for details about where we actually went and what we did at each place. Many thanks go to Rebecca and Jeannot for showing us such a good time in their neck of the woods, and for their relatives who put us up in their homes for free and also for feeding us :)
Its been awesome! Now were back in Montreal where we will be exploring for the next week or so!
Learning to remove the wine bottle cover with your bare hands.
Seeing the sunset reflected off the empire state building.
Diving with sharks
Playing instruments for the first time in ages
Learning Vietnamese (badly)
Books, music, cultures, ideas, conversations, barbeques, surfing, forest, desert, heat, cold, festivals, cities, countryside, music, extreme noise, absolute quiet, capitalism, socialism, random meetings, alcohol, exercise, laziness, Angkor, Himalayan ranges, burning bodies, Christianity, Buddhism, Islam, Hindu, realizing how much I don`t know.
New smells, tastes and sounds.
Peace
If there is one thing that we have discovered and loved about the last week here in Montreal, it would have to be the amazing food. We have tasted and enjoyed so much of it that it deserves a special blog entry. There is of course a very strong French/European influence here, but there is also Little Italy and China Town as well as Mediterranean and Middle Eastern style food predominating in other areas of the city, it means we have been able to simply eat our way around Montreal!
Becs and Jeannot have been able to recommend to us many places we never would have known about, the best of which have included Le Academy, an extremely popular Italian and French restaurant where we ate garlic butter escargot, Malcolm indulged in a huge cut of meat smothered in mushroom sauce and garnished with giant king prawns and I enjoyed a creamy salmon steak. This restaurant is extremely popular because its a fine dining restaurant with very reasonable prices and where you can BYO wine! We also ate the biggest sandwiches ever at a cute café called Santropole. Reminded me of Sassafrass is Brisbane in its décor and the outside terrace, but this place serves a mean sandwich- I could hardly get my mouth around it!
Malcolm and I visited the Jean Talon market, an amazing farmers market with the most delectable array of fruits, vegetables, cheeses, breads, seafood and gourmet items like olives and mushrooms that I have ever seen! I forgot my camera so cant share any pictures of the market itself, but I did take a picture of the platter we created with the cheeses and olives which we bought. Sooooo good. While at this market, Mal and I indulged in a breakfast crepe of béchamel sauce, mushrooms, and asparagus which was just divine, and we then topped it off with the most authentic Italian gelato Ive eaten outside of Italy. It was spectacular, full of flavour and texture and chunks of caramel and was complete yumminess. There are also some awesome patisseries and bakeries where we each chose a delectable delight- Mal chose his favourite crème brulee and I had this mango and raspberry mousse which we then shared while watching our clothes dry in the Laundromat I also ate a mouth-watering chocolate and oatmeal cookie today from another little boutique bakery we passed by today.
The breakfasts weve been eating here in Montreal also deserve a special mention. The cafes here seem to be unable to do anything wrong. Weve been trying various kinds of crepes including one I had with eggs, and another with salmon, yummy fruit salads with yoghurt, delicious bagels with cream cheese and omellettes done perfectly. They always serve every meal with fresh seasonal fruits too, which is great, especially as I love berries and blueberries, raspberries and strawberries are abundant right now.
In addition to these highlights, weve drunk sangria on the front patio of a hip bar in the Plateau area, indulged in a giant plate of nachos to tide us over, eaten some pretty good Vietnamese to get our now-necessary fix of Vietnamese food, and also ordered in some great Indian food (which just always seems to be available everywhere in every country weve been to). We just came home from a Guyian cuisine place where we ate roti with chick pea and pumpkin and the most amazing peanut shake Ive ever consumed- the texture and taste were just awesome and very refreshing after the super spicy food.
Another two foods that weve been introduced to that seem to be uniquely Quebecoir are poutine and donairs with special Pizza Delight sauce. Poutine is basically a pile of greasy fried chips, smothered in gravy with dollops of curd-like cheese. It is eaten best when drunk at 2am (or so I have been told) and I must say it was pretty good. The donairs with sauce are basically a doughy pizza-like thing but the SAUCE is what makes it. Think the texture of hommous, the taste of sugar and salt and also a lot of garlic. Sounds weird, is weird, but tastes bloody good!
I havent even mentioned the barbeques yet, of which there have been many- terrace dining and barbeques are very popular now in the sunny, warm weather. Too much food, but all of it fresh and healthy and too good to not try out. Might be a few kilos heavier when I get home in three weeks ..
The past ten days in Montreal since we returned from our road trip have been awesome! Becs and Jeannot have guided us through a great time in this eclectic, very French, very beautiful, extremely musical city. We`ve strolled through Old Montreal, vegged out in parks, gotten fat at the restaurants and cafes which abound, seen plently of music at the many small live venues here, been introduced to many local instiutions, visited underground shopping mallos that go for kilometres below ground, and mostly enjoyed the sunshine and company!
It`s sad to say goodbye :-(
It`s safe to say that in Canada, we`ve had one hell of a good time! we`ll be back again some day for sure!
Well my life is now pretty much complete. Yesterday I saw the coolest thing I will ever see: A whole bunch of dudes dressed up in home made battle attire beating the crap out of each other with foam weaponry.
This was in Mont Royal, Montreals centre park, and apparently it happens en masse every Sunday. Check out the photos and videos.
There is a large dirt clearing where the combatants gather and then face off. As far as I can tell, if a limb gets touched by an opponents weapon, that limb is severed.
The best part is definitely the people. I watched as a tiny 9 year old kid ran in to the battle frantically wielding his short sword and shield made from a cardboard beer carton reinforced by plastic. He was promptly beaten to submission by a fat 35 year old dude with goatee, beard and long flowing locks, in full home made dragon armour, carrying an 8 foot long battle spear. There were samurai, knights, ninjas and I think even a Spartan and barbarian.
It was one of those moments where you go Oh my god. I should be giving these guys shit, but they are taking themselves soooo seriously, maybe Ive missed a fundamental point in life.
It was all there. Sword flourishes, ye olde medieval verbal jousting (all in French), arguments over who impaled who, and even one random chick running through the crowd shooting everyone in a fighter plane. Great stuff.
So yeah, see you all in 4 WEEKS!
Goodbye Canada, youve been a highlight.
Peace
Well not really, but one could be mistaken for thinking so when arriving at New York City. Its so much of a cliché to say that. In fact its so much of a cliché that mentioning its a cliché is really clichéd. I guess New York is so eminent in pop culture that being among it for the first time becomes weird. Its all so familiar but totally new.
We had a fun time at customs. You actually cross into American territory in the airport before you even leave Canada. A big well built immigration guy with a buzz cut grilled us. We got through it fine until the end:
Customs guy: Who are you staying with?
Us: Pat (shit no last name that sounded dodgy.. and worse, his first name is Pat)
Customs guy: Where did you meet him?
Us: Thailand (shiiiit..)
Customs guy (very loudly and angrily): THAILAND??!!
Customs guy: ..silence (for precisely 2 seconds as he considered if there was any way he could respond to that)
Customs guy (with authority): Heres your passports. Enjoy your stay
Double fingerprint check, photo taken.
Next stop, carry on luggage check in. Guy FREAKS over my torch/fire detector/personal alarm thing. It really actually does look like a bomb. It has a bit you twist, and then a sensor pops out and it starts beeping. It looks like a futuristic grenade And then he hit the panic button and set off the alarm.
Wad of cotton. Torch dabbed tentatively. Particle analysis with expensive equipment ensues.
Apparently it wasnt a grenade because after that he moved on to other areas of the bag.
Its important to mention we couldnt sleep the night before (agitated),and I hate border crossings so I was pretty wired at this point.
Scissors. Big sharp ones. In my pencil case. Whoops.
Um sorry, Im a teacher .(fade into a mumble)
YOU CANNOT TAKE THESE ON THE PLANE!!!!
Okay thank you. Sorry. Yes of course. My mistake. Can I go now? Okay thanks. Sorry.
Scissors confiscated, right of passage granted.
Being the good boyfriend that I am though I waited nearby for Sim to come through the gates. The guys saw me waiting, asked Sim if she was with me, then promptly got her to empty her entire bag out.
New York!
Weve only gone from the airport to our friends house, and weve only been above ground for a really small portion of that time, but already weve seen so much iconic imagery. Its all here, from the slick talking tram drivers with some crazy accents to the absolute explosion of every nationality. The size is staggering. Our accommodation is in Brooklyn above a glass repair place with 5 guys. Its awesome. The rail is DIRECTLY OUTSIDE the window. If we go on to the roof the railway tracks extend away into convergence. You can see Coney Island in one direction right on the horizon, and the Chrysler building right in the opposite direction. WOW. More to come. Exhausted and must sleep.
Peace
PS: I Just want to put in a special mention for Rebecca and Jeannot, who put us up in Canada and showed us the best time. Through their hospitality and the kindness of themselves and family, and through their general awesomeness as people, Canada was one of the best parts of our entire trip so far. Thanks guys.
Why DO they call New York the Big Apple? I reckon its because it is shiny and juicy. Apples are also round, and for me, being here in New York brings the past year to a complete and round full circle. Mal and I are staying in an old ramshackle apartment with three awesome guys we met in our first week in Thailand back in September last year. We spent a week with these guys and here we are again, reunited in Brooklyn in their wonderfully decorated abode with three cats and two other housemates. To add to the surrealism of being in New York, land of clichés and fantasies and fables and scenes from many movies and books Ive seen and read in my life, is also the fact that my mum is from New York State, so Im back in her homeland and my heritage
Some observations about this city after two days here:
There is an extreme amount of apathy exuded by shop assistants here. They dont stop their conversation with their co-worker for one second as they scan your goods and dont even look at you or speak to you. Customer service definitely has something to answer for but it is actually kinda funny too.
Central Park is sooooooo massive. It took us hours just to walk half the length of it. Its peaceful and beautiful to boot.
Times Square is a bizarre place. I have never seen so many bright lights and crazy LCD displays in one place in all my life. It is an evil place where capitalism converges. I was just standing there, amazed at the way the streets sparkled- even the New York Police Department sign- and feeling slightly disturbed by the money and greed and then a bird pooped on me, all down my left shoulder and arm and on my bag. It was time to leave. (Jackie, I know you will find this hilarious).
Its pretty fast-paced. The Metro railway platform shakes when the trains zoom down it. People walk quickly with their heads down. It would be easy to be anonymous here I think. The buildings are so iconic it is incredible. There are lots of crazy people, and even the cats beg on the streets here- check out the picture! The buildings seem really, really tall.
It took us about two hours to walk down 5th Ave, as we kept seeing shops we wanted to visit, buildings I wanted to photograph and even popped into a few grand cathedrals which had stunning neo-gothic architecture and one church even had an organist playing the pipe organ. It was quite bizarre stepping back out onto the street after the church sanctuary.
We had a really funny ride home on the train due to our conductor. I think he was having a bad day and was really stressed. From the moment we got onto the peak-hour commuter train he was ranting, and it didnt stop the whole 45 minute ride from Manhattan to Brooklyn. It went not dissimilar to this (I wrote down the comments in my note book as he said them) and you should imagine these being spoken in a black American accent:
Dont push people! I said DO NOT Push! I do not understand WHAT is wrong with you. Cant you see there is NO ROOM on this train
Ladies and gentlemen, I have said it once and I will say it again. You MUST spread out and use all the doors if you want to get on the train. If you dont fit, just wait for the next one. The next train even has air-conditioning and a free drinks cart
The next station is 42 Street. This is where you can all get a new brain. New brains, next station.
People, I CANNOT change the dimensions of this train. If you cant all fit then just wait for the next one coming in just one minute. Cant you see this train is FULL!
For this announcement the conductor took on a more serious tone of voice: This is an announcement from the NYPD who just want to remind you all of the need to look out for each other and your belongings report anything that is supicious .
And then it was straight back into the jibing:
Oh yeah, it looks like we have some breathing room in the carriages now. Phew and here we are at what used to be my favourite subway.
New York, New York!
It was always destined to be a bit of a party here in New York. The friends we`re staying with are excellent value, a lot of of fun, and there`s always someone around at the house ready to have a conversation, share a joke, proffer beer and other insights and basically ensure that spirits are high. We`ve basically been hanging at their Brooklyn abode all weekend, rather than venture into Manhattan, and have had a ball doing really un-touristy stuff.
Friday night we went out drinking a couple of Brooklyn bars and drank lots of beer and ate greasy late-night food, it was fun! On Saturday it was a glorious day, and the household ended up sitting on the roof of their house, drinking beer and chilling in the sunshine. The afternoon soon became the evening when a party began. The excuse for the festivities were a couple of birthdays, but I reckon that there doesn`t need to be too many excuses with this lot.
The night, as they often are at parties where drinking is involved, is a bit of a blur. I know I had some funny conversations, danced the salsa, did whiskey shots, listened to various jam sessions, among other shenanigans. Good times for sure.
Today after we`d all recovered from hangovers, eaten a Captain Breakfast feast and got organised, a group of us caught the train 10 minutes away and visited Coney Island for the afternoon. It was the perfect way to round-off the weekend, spend a rainy Sunday afternoon and to mess about like a child.
Coney Island is just like all amusement grounds, and is not dissimilar to the amusement piers in England. Overall fairly tacky places, with rides, arcade games, greasy food and many opportunities to spend money. But that doesn`t detract from the fact that Coney Island is a long-established New York institution and that we had a wicked time Bump, Bump, Bumping Our Asses Off at the dodgem cars, win tickets for spinning tops in the arcade, go to the very famous Coney Island Freak Show and then get thrown about on one of the world`s oldest roller coasters, the Cyclone, which we road in the rain, it`s ancient wheels clickety-clacketing along the wooden rails that supported it. We got thrown about as we zoomed up and down some very steep slopes and I screamed the whole way!
Preparations are in full-swing here for Burning Man, with some of the guys leaving in two days for the West Coast. Wow, just 20 days of the holiday remain, yet still some crazy times lay ahead!
Love to all
Sim xoxox
Still having a ball...here`s some more pictures of what we`ve been seeing and doing while not hanging out with our friends in Brooklyn...
Last night we got to go and see some live music at Coney island with our mates, and it was a perfect night! Our ticket got us a few rides at the amusement park, so we got to go on the Cyclone again, as well as experience the wonders of the Wonder Wheel and THE dodgiest haunted house EVER. Coney Island is quite an old, decrepit place but that takes it beyond tacky to the ultimate in coolness. The actual gig was at a place called Cha Chas which could be described only as a boardwalk bar, with about a 1000 person capacity. Like the whole seaside village it is old and falling apart but again, it`s waaaay cool for all its badness.
The main act we were going to see was The Aqua Bats, a band which our friend Sean is a massive fan of. We knew little about them prior to the show but it all unfolded by the end of the night. The guys are classic punk rockers, who dress up in `Aqua Bat` attire and go off! The gig was all-ages, so there were heaps of kids there all dressed up also, but everyone in attendance from 12-30 years old totally skanked and moshed their arses off. It`s the first gig I have been to in ages where people actually crowd surfed!
The warm-up act was MC Lars, a guy who describes himself as post punk laptop rap. I was super suprised when I actually recognised and knew the lyrics to the first two songs. A google search on this act later revealed that I heard his stuff on Triple J when I was at home last year. It was a pretty good show also, with a projector screen synchronised with the songs he was singing and some catchy tunes.
It was an awesome almost round-up to our time here in New York (I say almost as we still have two more days) and I felt a buzz when the acts said "Thank you New York, you`ve been great!". I had a moment of: Yeah, I`m in NYC with friends watching live music, hooray, how good is life!
Check out the pictures and movies to get more of an idea of what went on. Goooood times!
After all the A-tractions of the last week or so in the marvelous city, the last thing I expected was to have to undergo an Ex-traction. Today I suffered through quite an unexpected thing- I got my wisdom tooth yanked! Some of you may know about my recent complaints with my very late in life blossoming of a big, bad wisdom tooth. The last week saw the tooth completely cut through my gum,and with it, some excrutiating pain which today I could only forsee as getting worse. So I found dentist in the Yellow Pages, and after an x-ray, the next thing I was being told is it is infected and has to come out. Wow. Luckily the dental surgeon was in and even more lucky, I was covered for the surgery under my travel insurance as it was an emergency, so I agreed to get it done and after 4 hours waiting in the dentist office and getting completely freaked out and stressed and anxious about the procedure, the giant tooth was removed, and I now have a gaping hole in my mouth! Surreal!
After this ordeal Mal bought me ice cream and we then enjoyed some delicious cocktails over dinner so I am feeling a lot better but it`s a bit sore still. The antibiotics the dentist gave me will heal the infection, and hopefully I will be all good in time for Burning Man in a few days (and will no doubt feel a million times better without the wisdom tooth aggravation).
So there you go. A real New York story.
Today marks the end of our wonderful sojourn in New York City and we made the most of the sunshine and warmth and did a few last-minute things. Our day of sightseeing started with a walk over the Brooklyn Bridge which really just emphasised the enormity of this city as well as the grandeur which abounds. Next we strolled through the financial district and Wall Street and down the promenade to the Staten Island ferry for a free glimpse of the iconic Statue of Liberty. It`s a funny trip really, as the ferry is free and most people who catch it are tourists who pile on to view the Statue which the boat sails right past. Once at Staten island everyone has to hop off and most people just line up in the waiting room again to get the same ferry back to Manhattan! It`s not exactly a secret but a cool little trip to take.
Our Friday night culminated in a Japanese dinner and then a musical on Broadway. it just had to be done! We ended up seeing Spring Awakening which has been running here for over a year to rave reviews and awards galore. Whilst it was not as good as musicals I`ve seen such as Rent and Chicago, it was definitely entertaining and funny AND we got to see a bit of nudity in the form of boobs and a hot guy`s butt during an on-stage sex scene. They also used the word bitch, shit and fuck in some of the songs, so it was pretty righteous!
We do actually have most of Saturday here in Brooklyn before we catch our flight to Sacramento for the final amazing adventure of Burning Man from the 27th. We have to stock up in Sacramento and Reno to prepare for our survival in the desert over the following week, and then it`s onwards to have one hell of a hurrah before coming home on the 8th September!!!! Wow!
We have 120 litres of water, enough tins and packets of food for two people to survive for two weeks, all the camping gear anyone could ever want, a clean white hire car that won`t stay that way for long, and boundless spirit and sense of humour on-hand...we can only be about to embark on the one and only Burning Man festival!
For those of you out there who know very little about the festival we leave for in about 24 hours, here`s a quick run-down. Basically, for a whole week in the middle of Nevada in the Black Rock desert, utopia is created in the form of a 100,000 people strong city that emerges for the week and then disappears afterwards leaving no trace behind. It`s an arts festival, spectator and consumerist free, meaning there is heaps of art work, no performances stages and no money (except to buy ice and coffee). Everyone who attends has to be responsible for their own survival in the desert at 4000 ft where it`s scorching 40 degrees by day and as low as 5 degrees by night. It`s about radical self-reliance, but also gift-giving and sharing and caring.
We are joining our friends in a small "theme camp" titled Camp Lazy Fuck-Off, we`re not even sure what being a part of it involves, but our friends from NYC are great value so I am sure it will be a fun time.
I am trying to get used to the roads here and will be driving us to Reno in the morning for a last-minute stock up to get bikes and booze and then we`re onto Gerlach and the desert where we`ll be out of all mobile and internet communication until the 4th. That means you won`t hear from us or being able to contact us until then!
After the 4th we`re going to "decompress" in a beautiful Sacramento camping ground for two days and then fly to Australia via LAX and Auckland on the 6th. We gain a day and arrive in Brisbane at 8:30am on Saturday 8th.
You probably won`t hear from us until after the 8th...when we`ll see some of you in the flesh!
The last big, crazy hurrah for the last 12 months is about to happen. I`m excited, Mal`s excited, we hope you all are too!
For anyone who is keen to know more about what we`re about to embark upon, go visit the Burning Man website www.burningman.com or download the doco "Beyond Black Rock" for more of an insight.
Love to all and back in touch again after the 8th!!
Love Sim xoxoxoxoxo
I can now say I am no longer a Black Rock virgin, and actually qualify to be known as a Burner. After experiencing the 7 days of the festival, however, I feel I could reinvent myself as anything and anyone. The sense of self-expression and self-love, selflessness and acceptance as well as immeasurable creativity and generosity that takes place throughout the week is just amazing. In short, the Burning Man Festival absolutely blew my mind. To try and describe it is almost impossible. It was like one big amusement playground for adults. There was also a massive sense of community, the need for survival, a huge amount of amazing art and performances, unequivocal generosity of everyone where everyone shared whatever they could offer, along with crazy parties by night that were like nothing else I have ever experienced added to the fact the entire 50,000 person population and all that goes with creating a city of this size just disappears without a trace at the end of the week .it was almost like true utopia, where it was everyone who attended that made the festival what it was. Spectator free, money-free and desert survival are barely the crux of what makes this festival so special, whilst the involvement and the guardianship within the population of Black Rock City add to the whole affair.
There was to constantly something to see and do- there was literally something going on 24 hours a day- and there were also the elements to deal with as well as a total sense of individual survival and defying whatever the desert spewed forth at me. Getting to the festival required an enormous amount of effort and even more money, more than I have ever spent on one camping trip or festival combined. The reason so much preparation was required is because we were in the Black Rock Desert, which is actually a dried out salt water lake, and is where the Black Rock City is built and evolves over the period of the event. The desert is harsh. At night it would go down to 5 degrees and in the day time it was up to 40 degrees. There were wind storms. We experienced two total white-outs where the wind blew up all the grey dust of the playa and all you could do is stop chill. When the white-outs came, it was a great opportunity to find sanctuary in one of the many bars which camps organized for everyone elses pleasure. Some of my favourite daytime bars included one called the Vomiting Sparrow where we met some awesome people and chilled out drinking Bloody Marys and chatting with whoever had dropped by. One of our neighbours was the Margarita Party Bar where the camp doled out frozen daquiries and margaraitas and popcorn all day every day. Great stuff! Super hard work, super generous, but it was groups of people like these camps which make it what it is.
By night, the mood would change, and no longer would we be dealing with the heat and dust, but instead staying warm and exploring and playing on the massive playa. Everyone comes out at night- dressed up in costumes and fancy make-up- along with fanciful art cars and even more bars. The effort that some of the camps went to for the event would constantly amaze me at night. Some camps built giant art cars, which were decorated in all sorts of ways, and would go around picking up passengers to drive around the city in. My favourite art car was a massive carousel, known as Acarvella, where passengers could ride giant horses made of metal and which had a stage for bands to play on. Awesome stuff! Other camps and artists built installations of light and sound; there were performers fire twirling as well as many other fire displays; and there were numerous colourful light displays. Other theme camps embarked on projects such as a huge roller disco replete with roller skates for everyone to roll with; one camp constructed an 8 hole mini golf course; the Thunderdome, where volunteers would duke it out while spectators were clambering on all sides of the dome cheering them on; there were many bars, including an Irish Pub which had an amazing construction; there were guys who set up a display where you could pop nitrogen bubbles- very amusing and satisfying!- and there was a giant Dance Dance Revolution the computer arcade game, but with a twist, where people playing wore fire proof suits and had flames thrown at them if they got the dance steps wrong; and one of the festival favourites was a roundabout which would start spinning with pedal power and when it did, lights would go on, a strobe light would flash, and metal monkeys would look as though they were grabbing as the wheel spun. These are just a few of my favourite things, but it is by no means an exhaustive list of the many, many more things that we saw and played and interacted with.
All of the art, all of the bars, all of the many things to see and do were all organized by theme camps and villages who do everything for the enjoyment of everyone else. The people are what make it. Everyone participates in some way at Burning Man, and whilst it was hard for Mal and I to organise too much to do in terms of art, we feel we participated by being participants, who enjoyed the amazing things that everyone else had done. We also did our bit within our own camp, assisting with cooking and washing and other things required to keep our camp organized and happy. Our camp was the Lazy Fuck-off Camp which comprised about 10 people. Mal and I were the Black Rock City virgins, but the rest of the camp have been coming to the festival for the 2nd. 3rd, 10th times, so they were experienced and well-versed in what the festival entails. They were awesome people to have on-hand and to guide us through it, and everyone made sure we had an excellent time, all the time.
I had many big nights, which resulted in seeing beautiful sunrises over the playa, which is the giant expanse of desert space in the centre of the city. This years Burning Man was actually a momentus one for several reasons, in that we experienced unusual weather patterns including two dust storms, rain (which is rare), on our first night we saw a rare lunar eclipse which was the most excellent and beautiful way to commence our event, there was a full moon, there was an afternoon where two rainbows appeared in the sky, arching over the huge man in the centre of the playa, and the man itself, which usually burns on the last night of the festival was torched by an arsonist on the first night, and had to be hastily re-built for the final nights event.
The burning of the man actually paled in comparison to the burning of an art piece which was called Crude Awakening, and was a huge 90 metre high oil rig. When it was torched, there was a dramatic air siren and then a synchrniosed fire works display before the whole thing went up in flames, a ball of fire filling the entire sky like an atomic mushroom. Incredible. And scary. And powerful.
Another significant event was the burning of a temple which gets constructed every year for the festival, made out of thin ply wood but with intricate details. People put memorials in the temple over the space of the festival and when it was torched on the Sunday night it is a peaceful, serene and beautiful moment.
Riding on the many decorated art cars was a fun thing to do at night and provided an easier way to get around than on foot. Riding bicycles everywhere was also necessary as the space of the festival is vast and it is impossible to see and do everything. The exodus out of the festival on Monday was pretty crazy. There was a record attendance of almost 50,000 people, and this many people all trying to leave the desert via one road took almost 4 hours, but provided a good time to reflect a little on what wed just seen and experienced.
I think my pictures (once I can upload them) will be more of a insight to the festival than these randomly spewed words. If there`s no pictures yet, please check again in a few days as they are coming! The Burning Man Festival was an extremely memorable, extremely fun time, we built some awesome friendships with some wonderful and beautiful people, and I feel like my view on the world has changed in some way. It was definitely the best last hurrah for a wonderful 12 months away, but one that will stay with me for a very long time.
I cannot thank our friends Pat, Phil and Sean enough for helping to make it all happen, we are eternally grateful for your friendship. Big shout-outs also go to the others from the camp, our new friends who made the time so fantastic. Naomi, Julie, Fickle Dave, Johnny B, Cregain, all of you contributed to our experience in great ways also. It wouldnt have been the sane without you all!!
Its still quite hard to digest it all that we did and saw over the past week in Nevada in the desert, but Ill be home soon to talk everyones ears off about it when I see you all soon!
Love and sunshine
Sim xoxoxo
Holy shit. What a way to end the trip. I can see now why everybody who has been to Burning Man fails at describing it. There were so many brain exploding moments. If you’ve ever been in a crush at a festival or swept away in a current etc… then you know the feeling of being subject to a force that you have no control over. There was plenty of that in the festival. Heres some brain exploding moments in no particular order:
The fireball when they blew up the oil derrick. All the lights went out, and this MASSIVE air raid siren sounded for 5 minutes. Then there were fireworks, and the 90 metre high oil rig burst into flames.
Then there was the explosion.
The fireball was over 1000 feet high. That’s over 300 metres. To put that in perspective, that’s taller than any skyscraper in Australia. The Empire State Building is only 200 feet higher. Now picture one of those skyscrapers turning into a fireball moving towards you. We were right up the front (500 feet away) and the mushroom cloud engulfed the entire sky and our entire field of vision. The mushroom actually made it over our heads. Heres some links to some movies:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MpgFbW7R8-Y
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G_mWRIY45Yk
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0IlrXqcOGSs
It was like a nuclear explosion. People ran screaming, lay down, cheered, cried, shat their pants and clapped. Personally I fell backwards over a bicycle.
The sand and the sandstorms. There was sand everywhere. In every orifice and in every meal. In ones hair, bed, tent, teeth, nose and beer. The white outs were crazy. The winds got up to 100km/h and you couldn’t see anything in any direction. Entire camps got blown away and anything not tethered down ceased to exist.
The people. Woah. Normally if you go to a festival, maybe one in 500 people is WAY OUT THERE. Here the ratio is closer to 1:1. I saw so much leather, dicks, vaginas, boobs, butts, men in dresses, sado-masochism, metal studs and pierced everythings. I felt decidedly plain. The best thing though is that every single person was super friendly, intimidatingly intelligent and extraordinarily funny and artistic.
The size. The festival site is in the shape of a circle, with a diameter of about 2.5km, so the area is about 5km. We needed bicycles to get around.
The guys (in non-alphabetical order). Pat, Phil, Sean and our new friends Naomi, Fickle Dave, Craigan and Julie. You guys fucking rock. We met the guys in Thailand at the very beginning of our trip, and how appropriate that we end our trip with them on the other side of the world. I have never laughed so hard than around these guys.
Okay I gotta go finish packing my bag.. Its midnight!! Australia here we come.
After an experience such as was Burning Man, most people take a few days out to decompress before returning to the real world. We did just that with our friends Sean, Phil, Pat and Naomi who we camped with for two days in the beautiful Washoe Park and visited the close-by Lake Tahoe with.
The surrounds at the camp ground were beautiful desert mountains and a lake, and the night sky was completely lit-up so I even saw two huge shooting stars. Our friends slept on mattresses under the stars, but Mal and I wussed out and stayed in our tent where it was warmer and made us not so obvious to roaming rattle snakes, coyotes and jack rabbits which we heard shared the same space.
Our second day was the best ever. After spending hours at the Laundromat clearing the white Black Rock desert dust off our clothes, we cleaned it off our bodies by jumping into the spectacular Lake Tahoe. What an incredible place! The lake was as huge as an ocean, and even had sand and waves with blue and green clear water which was absolutely freezing but very refreshing. We mucked about and did ridiculous things on the beach, ate snacks and drank beers and enjoyed the warmth and sunshine. We then went by the supermarket and got supplies for the best-ever gourmet barbeque by the campfire. Just the most perfect end to a fabulous segment of the trip in America.
This part of the trip was in fact a perfect end to a perfect year away. The friendship and comraderie we now share with these beautiful people is now firmly cemented, and it was terribly sad to say goodbye to everyone after a delicious breakfast in Carson City together.
Mal and I drove back to Sacramento today and are now busily preparing for our TWO DAY long journey home to Brisbane via LAX and Auckland. We get back on Saturday morning wow, what a trip out it is in my mind!
Looking forward to seeing everyone of course
The journey wont be ending once were home however, so please do stay tuned!
Love and Laughter
Sim xoxoxox
And boy am I tired. I think I`ve been awake for about 40 hours, but figuring out the time differences is doing my head in. To all the excellent people we`ve met on the road, we hope to see you soon. To our friends in Australia, big party coming up, but for now.... MUST SLEEEEP
It was an epic journey home, but we made it. My nerves were shattered, my patience gone and the tiredness was overwhelming. It still confuses me how I had to wind back my watch twice and then live 8am on the 8th three times!!! I slept for 14 hours and awoke today feeling like me again. Ah! It`s pretty trippy being back in Australia after the past year away...
The next week or two will be pretty hectic, as we organise new phone numbers, a place to stay, and get ourselves organised...
We`re going to Byron Bay this week from Tuesday until Friday, will have more updates on what we`re doing exactly then, once we`re back.
Looking forward to seeing everyone- a big party is in order we thinks.
Love to all
Sim xo
Last week we spent a wonderful relaxing few days away with Mal`s mum at Byron Bay, which was the perfect way to ease back into life here in Australia. We ate delicious food, swam in the crystal clear water, lounged on the sand and remembered just how great Australia`s beaches are, we watched a sunset at the famous lighthouse and on a completely spontaneous whim, we went scuba diving! This was a highlight of the week, and it was so great to get back under the water after over 9 months (the last dive we did was in Nha Trang in Vietnam). It was such a treat, as we saw a massive turtle who just casually swam by us, swam alongside a couple of 3 metre long grey nurse sharks, saw a wobigong as well as some other interesting creatures, AND, when we came up to the surface it was just in time to see one of the huge humpback whales do a complete breach before our eyes. Awesome stuff! I definitely want to do some more diving while we`re here in Australia.
It was also great to finally meet Mal`s elusive brother Matthew and to slowly unwind from the hectic past few weeks before we came home. It`s still quite surreal being back in Australia, but I`m sure we`ll ease back into things soon enough...and it IS only for a few months.
Happy 30th Birthday Dipesh! This suprise party on the weekend went off without a hitch due to Jackie`s skills, and everyone had a wild time celebrating. What a great way to also catch up with so many friends after 12 months away...I hope we can have this much fun regularly!
Who said that Brisbane is boring? Oh, that would be me
.BUT that was before I had a full-on weekend of playing with my friends! It was a big one,which started with catching up with Angela (recently returned from Hanoi) and Jackie at The Zoo to see (and heckle with!) Art of Fighting on Friday night. Yey! I t continued into Saturday morning breakfast in West End, shopping at the market, beers in the afternoon at the Valley and then dinner at Tibetan Kitchen to see Dippys and Davs band play. Woot!
And what better way to finish the fun and frivolity than to do a bit of busking in theBrunswick Street Mall to make some beer money (like my alliteration?). This was the most fun I have had in ages! It was a busy Saturday night, packed full of strange, drunken and drugged people, we had drums and dancing legs and maracas made from seed pods and we formed a circle and played. All very impromptu! Before long we had people gathered around and money in the hat and after half an hour of fun we managed to make $27.90! Enough for a round of beer for the 10 of us except they wouldnt let us into the club, and the bottle shops had all shut, so we ended up lounging at Tab and Davs place almost until the sun came up. Woops!
So it became busking for breakfast instead, but honestly, what a great way to make some easy cash and to share the love a little too! I havent even mentioned the random egging incident that took place, random reuniting with old mates and a barbeque at Sareys on Sunday but they are all other stories for another entry
As soon as I manage to upload pictures from my phone (what I am resorted to using these days with my broken camera :-( ), then Ill share the photos too
Love and laughter
Sim xoxo
Can you believe it?? I sure can`t!!!!
The attached pictures are a basic rundown of what`s been happening, besides us being back at work, finding a new place to live all that everyday stuff! There hase been concerts (two in fact- one for FREE thanks to Dippy getting us tcikest to Snow Patrol, and one that was even more fun when we saw Art of Fighting at The Zoo with Jackie and Ang!), busking, dinners (one is included in photographs here with Tab and Anna when we saw Dipesh and Dav`s band play, but there was also a fun Vietnam reunion with Marie, Jackie and Ang!), there has been visits at my sister`s where I get to play with her and Phil and my neice Paige, there has been the purchase of a new bicycle which means it now takes me 10 misn to get to work- yey!, there has been regular yoga, swims and walks, weekly trips to the West End market to buy fruit and veg, there was a dinner party to christen our new place which was awesome fun, there has been Oktoberfest, there has ben flowers sent to my office (thanks Mal!), there hs been visits with Mal`s grandparents, I`ve witnessed a sailing competition on the Brisbane River which was pretty cool as a storm was brewing, oh, there have been some awesome summer storms, there`s been other random gossip sessions and and gatherings...and a bunch of other stuff!
The pictures (all taken on my dodgy camera on my phone-BAD quality) can tell the rest of the story!
Sim xoxox
September and October are always glorious months in Brisbane due to the not-too-hot and not-too-cold weather, mostly blue skies, and the spring colours that abound. On every street is a colourful, natural treat with lovely purple jacarandas and the yellow blossoms and red wattles and the orange flame trees featuring everywhere you go. There are some amazing, huge jacarandas near the river where we live in West End which I just had to photograph (on my crappy camera...mujst get my good one fixed!).
For those who don`t know Brisbane, West End is an inner-city suburb full of culture and character. There are heaps of different nationalities which form the community, with Greek and Vietnamese probably being the strongest influence. There are so many excellent multicultural cafes and restaurants (just a few metres down the road from us we have Turkish, Thai, Greek, Chinese, Indonesian and about 5 Vietnamese restaurants!), and there really is a sense of community here, where people smile at you on the street, where there are bicycle lanes for the many cyclists on the roads, where there are notice boards everywhere for people to post their various advertisements, there are tonnes of yoga centres and there are weekly fruit and veg markets which I have gone to every week since being here to stock up on super cheap produce that is all locally farm grown. The West End Market is a highlight of my week, there is such a buzz in the place as everyone comes to gather their bargain produce, drink organic coffee, get a delicious home-style breakfast, lsiten to the many buskers, browse at clothes and plant stalls and even get a massage.
The location of our share hosue couldn`t be more ideal. As well as being riound the corner from the markets, we`re also close to the river and the City Cat and it`s just a 10 minute bicycle ride from home to the city, and there is a bus to the valley that leaves from right out the front of our house. I love living in West End!
Before I got my bike I was walking to work, and one day I was walking down a side street short-cut and two Greek ladies were gossiping out the front with a little kid playing at their feet, then a few houses down, two old Asian men were talking together while they gardened, and then at another end of the street, two families with mum and several kids were heading to school, while the mums chatted, the kids zoomed by on little scooters, and I thought wow, this is not the kind of sense of community you expect just a few kilometres from the city centre. It`s pretty cool!
So enjoy the pictures of the flowers in bloom on my street and the funny pictures from a dinner we had a few weeks ago to warm our new place. I`ll be adding some more pictures from a Punk Rock Party last night as soon as I can get them off my phone...
Love to all
Sim xoxox
Ah Woodford...it`s just such a wonderful festival, and even this year with a constant 7 days of rain it was so much fun!
The thing that stood out for me this year was the high quality of music and talent that was made available over the space of 7 days, every day was a treat and by the end of the week I had listened to music from all over the world and found some new favourite bands which I got to listen to several times. I also absolutely cherished the friends aroound me throughout the festival period. We had a huge posse and a great campsite was set up prior to the festival by Dav, Tab, Scottie, and Anna, so we had an excellent place to retreat to away from the festival that was dry and cosy. Despite immense amounts of water and rain which soon turned to slush and mud, everyone maintained a positive spirit and lots of energy that made the time spent together lots of fun. Celebrating Dav`s birthday, listening to a rhythmic drumming circle, sharing drinks and spliffs, and also having visits from day-tripper friends including Ally and Ang, were highlights and I felt so lucky to be surrounded by almost everyone who I am close to!!
I also had an awesome volunteers job. I was a lanterneer, which meant I was part of the Light `n Up team, and got to carry lanterns at the opening and closing ceremonies and take part in a nightly procession through the festival, as well as make and mend lanterns. It was really fun and rewarding to carry a giant purple baboushka doll and to learn how to make giant boat lanterns. I only had to work a couple of hours every day and had heaps of time free at the important times, really felt like the job was nice and kushy and got to really enjoy the festival. I`d meet Mal after lanterneering at 7:30pm and we`d party the night away with everyone and see some great bands!
The first few days of the festival were probably the craziest, and by new year`s eve we were ready to have more of a relaxing night. The whole group of us hung out at an area known as the Chai Tent, where it was warm and dry and the music was divine. We all chilled toegther, drank, had a dance and partied in 2008 with lots of hugs and kisses and love doled out.
Highlights in terms of music include: Jackson Jackson (wild electronic rock garage grunge led by the singer from Cat Empire), Blue King Brown (always festival faves that did not disappoint), Doch (fun gypsy band that is imposisble to sit still to), OKA (ethereal electronic rainforest sounds coupled with digeridoo and flute), Wild Marmalade (The best ever drumming and didge trio that make me dance everytime), TaikOz drumming (wow, this Australian take on Japanese Taiko drumming was just astounding), Babylon Circus (wonderful, energetic and theatrical French ska/reggae band), Arte Kanela (amazing Spanish flamenco music and dancing), Angus and Julia Stone (wow, this brother sister duet are just gorgous). There were so many good sounds, and many othere bands, but these ones really stood out in my mind while writing this!
There were also food highlights, OMG the festival is just so great in terms of delicious food, and shopping highlights (ha ha, had to maintain so much self control from the markets!).
Oh and I better mention the insects which I referred to in my title to this entry...they seemed to be everywhere, especially all sorts of varieties of spiders as well as ants (which we were all bitten by), moths and a random stick insect! They were fascinating, and none of us could get over just how many different kinds of insects lived in the area surrouding our campsite!
It was the best ever week! Thank you to all my beautiful friends who I got to spend time with...Tab, Dav, Jackie, Dippy, Anna, Joss, Scottie, Sal, Truth, Chris, Ange, Ally, Lauchy, Steve I`m going to miss you when we go away again!
Happy New Year everyone!!! Let`s hope 2008 is beautiful, peaceful and fun.
Sim xoxoxox
Some movies to take us all back to the wondrous Woodford!!
Shit! We leave in 3 weeks. How did this happen?! This time in Aus has felt like a bit of a dream. Gone so quickly with just a few vague memories.I’m excited about this year (as I was about the last, and it didn’t disappoint).Woodford was excellent. How I wish you could buy canned Woodford, or dehydrated Woodford, or instant whip Woodford in a Can. What beautiful people to have experienced it with. If you’re reading this Woodford Posse, thanks for a wicked time. Health: Above par. Been going to the gym, but that Christmas bulge is a killer. 2008: Going to be awesome. Can’t wait. Nintendo Wii: Purchase imminent. This deserves its own paragraph. Everything else: Going spankingly thanks. More to come soon
It has been a tense morning, awaiting the arrival of Mal`s passport...and it was JUST delivered! Hooray! We`re heading away to Malaysia in the morning!
Thanks everyone for helping us have such a great time on Saturday night at the party! You are the best, and we`re going to miss you! So please come visit us!
Keep reading the blog for more updates on our journeys!
It was a long flight Coolangatta to Kuala Lumpur, though quite stress-free. Air Asia being a budget airline means that there is only one meal service, and there is no entertainment, so by the end of the 9 hours, Mal and I had read nearly an entire book each and were more than ready to get off the plane! We`d organised an airport pickup and got to enjoy a limousine taxi service for the hour-long journey from the airport to KL- it included cold towels, water and magazines to read in the car!
We decided to live it up on this week in Malaysia, and decided that we would be like honeymooners! So we told the hotel we were here on our honeymon and we got upgraded from an already nice room to an executive suite, which is a corner room with views out over the city! The room is lush, with a gigantic king size bed and two huge plasma tvs, internet access, a beautiful bathroom and excellent service. Would recommend he Trader`s Hotel to anyone!
We met our friends from Vietnam- Mark and Kate, who we actually spent last Tet holiday with in Laos- and enjoyed cocktails at the Sky Bar, which is a bar in the hotel which is by this massive pool which looks out of over the city, pretty impressive. We then took to the streets and had a delicious meal and some beers. I had to laugh when we asked: "what is La La?" and the waitress said: "It is La La!" We ended up ordering it so we could find out, and we now know it is a kind of soup- quite yummy! Mal and I were both so exhausted last night from the flight and the lack of sleep leading up to departing Australia, we ended up having an early night and the best sleep ever.
My first impressions of Malaysia so far are that the people are super friendly, it`s hot and humid, the streets seem clean, there seems to be very few motorbikes here, which seems weird to me considering we are in an Asian city, and KL seems very modern! We`ll be exploring a bit today and I will formulate some more descriptive impressions for my next entry (also when feeling a little less hungover...free cocktails are lethal).
I miss everyone already!!!
Sim xoxoxoxoxo
So we arrived in KL after an uneventful 8 hour flight. Well almost uneventful. It was raining and water dripped on to my lap as we were ascending. Somewhat worrying. Oh and our luggage got a bit wet too!! Methinks they need to retire that plane (It was old enough that it still had ashtrays in the seats).
Our friendly airport pickup driver was quick to provide cool face towels, bottled water, glossy magazines and travel advice (followed by a remark about the strength of the Australian dollar and the minimum wages of many Malaysians... in particular airport pickup drivers) One hour and one generous tip later and we were at Traders Hotel.
I haven’t done the five star hotel thing before so it’s been a nice experience. Since it’s our “Honeymoon” (teehee) we got a cheap upgrade to the executive suites. They’ve thought of everything, it’s quite incredible. For example if you pick up the bedside clock to read the time, a motion sensor in the clock automatically switches a little light on. We have 2 massive plasma screen TVs, free cocktails and food throughout the day. It’s a corner room and we’re right opposite the Petronis towers. We are still trying to find the cupboard that contains the pygmy-midget-helper-person... There is an incredible rooftop pool and bar, health club, spa etc.. They do stop short of holding your willy when you go for a wee though. No amount of expectant staring at the attendant would change that. Perhaps I should have tipped….
We met up with Mark and Kate and went out last night. We were blown away by how developed KL is. It’s by far the cleanest and most modern South East Asian major city that we have been in.
Oh and bonus plus! Malay is similar to Indonesian, which I studied for a year or two in primary school, so I already know how to say a few things here.
We’re off now to try and work off some of the excesses of last night. Simone had a bit too much, and the last three weeks in general have been nuts.
We miss our friends already. Wish we could pack you.
With love
Malcolm
We`re staying at a pretty exclusive hotel,and we asked the staff for advice about where to go out, so maybe that is why we were ushered the most exclusive street in KL for drinking! In any case, Mal, Kate, Mark and myself enjoyed a fun night of cocktails and tapas- most memorable cocktail being Mal`s Flaming Death Drink, which involved copious amounts of alcohol being set on fire and which he then had to drink through a straw, and most memotable tapas being a delicious scallop dish marinated in a tangy tomatey sauce. Our whole night began with free drinks in the Trader`s Club- the bar in our hotel where they serve drinks and snacks from 5:30pm-7:30pm for guests- love it! We snuck Mark and Kate in, so that is where our nights have started- drinking as many free drinks as possible in two hours in order to get our money`s worth! Ha ha! There does seem to be a bit of a "scene" in KL for the rich and famous...I think might have been among it for a night!
The Perhentian Islands in Malaysia truly are like paradise! Although getting to the islands from KL was a bit of a trek- hour long taxi to airport, hour long flight to Kota Baru, hour long taxi to Kuala Besut, a two hour wait to catch a ferry and then the scariest boat ride EVER! We hurtled through choppy waters at an incredibly fast speed- I can see why they call it the fast boat- so that we were thrown through wakes that saw us air born more than five times and we all thought the ferry was going to tip and we`d all drown ot that someone would fall overboard! It was so good to get on dry land, and to finally reach our detsination!
We stayed at Tuna Bay Resort, a very well equipped resort on the big island of the Perhentians. The resort is nestled between jungle and white sandy beaches with the most beautiful blue waters. There is a tropical reef right at the shore, and the resort provided a bar and restaurant and everything we really needed- it was simple but clean and nice with friendly staff. It was the surrounds that really made it, and with the gorgeous beach right there, it would be difficult not to have a relaxing time. The resort seemed to cater for families, and there were a stack of expat and local families there when we were, celebrating the Chinese New Year holiday. We were suprised there were so many people, as the monsoon has only just ended, and the seasaon just begun. Friends of ours at the same place last year at the same tiem said the island was empty, so it seems word is getting out about the islands!
We shared company with our friends from Hanoi, Mark and Kate, and the four of us relaxed by day, and ate dinner and drank beer and cocktails and played board games while drinking vodka by night (the vodka we got a local guy to get for us from the fishing village in the nearby island! Booze was expensive in the island, as it has been in the whole of Malaysia). Plenty of good times!
The snorkelling was awesome- we went out every day and each day I`d meet some new fishes. The reef, right at the shore-line, roped off as part of the marine park, had an abundance of sea life. I felt like I was swimming in an aquarium! Clown fish hiding in their anenome, crazy black fish that would come right up to the mask and not go away, schools of pretty angel fish and parrot fish and today we had one last snorkel and had the treat oif my life when we saw a school of bump fish happily crunching away on coral, each fish being at least 1.5 metres long! I could have watched them for hours, so incredible, but I was scared to get too close! At other times, when just standing on the beach the fish would come up and swim all aroound your legs, it was just magical!
We went for two dives. One dive, we got to see a 3 metre leopard shark! The dive instructors were so suprised to have seen one at that particular dive site and this early in the season, it was a lucky treat. The second dive kinda sucked, as the visibilty was bad- apparnetly the waters are only just post monsoonal and the new moon really affected the water, but with diving you always win some and lose some. Really, the snorkeling was probably better than the dives in terms of colourful choral and variety of fish.
It was such a relaxing place, not really much else to do other than get water taxis to other islands to eat at different restauarnts, walk on the beach, lie on the beach, snorkel at the beach....plenty of reading and chilling, much needed!
We`re back in KL now after doing the long journey in reverse, back at the luxurious Traders Hotel. I`m actually typing this on my laptop in the Traders Club where the Peronis Towers are right in front of me, a glass of free wine and free snacks by my side, doesn`t get better than that!
We leave Malaysia tomorrow for cold Hanoi...and I start work the very next day after that! The week has gone so quickly!
My thoughts on Malaysia are that the people are super friendly- lots of smiles and going out of the way to help- it`s a not a cheap Asian city, with prices comparable to Australia, but it is modern and developed with good infrastructure and I would definitely like to come back here again to explore more of the islands and to see some of the jungle. I don`t feel I have even scratched the surface of the country- KL and one island are hardly the way to understand the whole country, but it has been a great place to spend a well deserved break between jobs.
Thanks to everyone for posting messages on this blog- I`ll send you all personal emails in the next few days.
Miss you!
Sim xoxoxoxox
I’m sure of it.
After a rather sedate flight to Khota Bahru, and the always-exhilarating death ride from Chang-Michael-Schumacker, the psychopathic Asian taxi driver, we arrived at the Kuala Besut Ferry terminal.After buying our “fast boat” ticket, we waited.
And waited.
And….. waited. As a seemingly endless stream of people who arrived after us got on the seemingly endless stream of departing boats. I dunno why, perhaps I should have tipped…
As it turns out, the ferry terminal moguls (no doubt Malaysian Mafia I’m sure, complete with gold chains) , had something special in store for us. We were finally signalled on to our designated boat: 25 feet long, 5 feet wide, with…. Wait for it… two 200 Horsepower outboard motors. I’m no expert on power to weight ratios, but in my limited maritime experience, I think that qualifies as overkill.
Well our extended wait at the terminal was certainly made up for. Our driver, Satan, managed to keep us completely airborne for most of the trip. Passenger’s initial screams of excitement faded into occasional exclamations of fear as we slowly realised that Satan was in fact intent on killing us. I’m not joking when I say the boat completely left the water on many occasions. Satan was definitely going faster than the other boats, as we overtook two identical ones that had left much earlier.
Somehow we managed to make it to the Perhentian Islands alive (earlier than we had left no less, due to the laws of faster than light travel) and all concerns were washed away quickly in a sea of tranquil blue.
As for the Islands, I’ll leave it to Simone to describe those in great detail. I’ll just say that I have never experienced such blue water. It’s also amazing that pristine coral reefs teeming with the most spectacular aquatic life can exist so close to humans. The Malaysian divers at least seem to be aware of the need for conservation, and I hope they stay that way without compromise. Seeing such an amazing and delicate ecosystem so close to a resort is something new for me, and it makes one question whether it is within our rights to stay here (can we truly ever leave with everything intact? After all a diesel spewing boat brings us the food and booze from the mainland, and every novice diver inevitably breaks something off a reef by accident. It adds up over time).
In any event, a much needed time of relaxation and sun in one of the most beautiful places on earth that I have been to.
Peace.
Thougt I better write a little update from freezing Hanoi, seeing as I have been back now for 6 days!
Already the warm, sunny beaches of Malaysia seem like a dream! It hasn`t gone above 12 degrees since we arrived in Hanoi, so there has been a lot of time spent indoors under doonas and blankets and with electirc hot water bottles by the side.
It has been wonderful to be able to stay with our friends Mark and Kate, who are old timers here in Hanoi and who have made coming back that much easier by providing us a comfy bed in their cosy house while we find a place of our own to stay.
I started back at work teaching a few classes on Wednesday- back at my old school for a while. The teaching is fine, and will start on regular hours on Monday, when i will teach IELTS and TOEFL classes every night Mon-Sat. I have hired a new motorbike to get around on and have braved the roads once more. As they say, it`s been like riding a bike getting used to it all again!
It has also been awesome catching up with all our mates here over the past few eveings. Have had a few nights out, and I think I have seen everyone who I knew from last time we were here. Not much seems to have changed in the last 8 months really! Apparently it is more difficult to get good, cheap houses to rent, and I have heard that more schools are wanting teachers with TESOL qualifications, so this is good news for Mal and me with the Teach International Hanoi course venture!
I had fun today stocking up the fridge and cupboards with a visit to the local produce market. I`m glad that I can still remember my bargaining Vietnamese, and it is so great to be able to buy such delicious fresh fruit and veg at such a cheap price- an eight of what it costs in Australia, and that is by West End market standard costs which are cheaper than the supermarket.
So all is going along ok. Will take some pictures this week...just haven`t been inspired by the grey, misty, rainy and cold environs at the moment!
Hope all is well for everyone
Sim xo
Hurrah! The sun has appeared! It`s so weird how one day it can be freezing, grey and about 10 degrees, and then the next, without warning, it is warm, sunny and about 20 degrees! It has been so great to have the sun out and shining...Hanoi is such a beautiful city when the sun is out!
I have been taking every opportunity to get out of the house and riding my motorbike somewhere, and loving it! It has been a busy week! We`ve been organising things for the TI course, catching up with friends, looking at houses, working, drinking....
We were invited to our old Vietnamese teacher`s house for a huge lunch mid-week, and had a bit of a bender on Thursday night when a bunch of teachers at Mal`s school caught up for a once every three month teacher`s night. We drank copious amounts of beer and I didn`t end up riding home until 4am!!
I have been projecting out good thoughts for the perfect house to move into, and Mal and I think we have found the place of our dreams after just looking at a few places. We`re going to check it out again today and make a final decision..and will give more details about it then when we are certain!
There`s a big party going on tonight which I`ll probably go to after work, and Joss also returns to Hanoi tonight which is super exciting!
I`ve attached some pictures to this entry which I have taken the past few days....
Love to all
Sim xoxoxo
So the Van Ho III/Doi Can street posse of last year has been almost reunited with the arrival of Joss on Ssaturday night! We had a bit of a gathering with the most delicious ginger and lime cocktails, made with citrus vodka- yum!
On Monday we took a motorbike drive with Mark and Kate about 45 minutes outside of Hanoi to a pottery/ceramics village. The ride was a bit chilly and misty and bumpy...I imagine the scnenery would be beautiful in better weather. All the same, the day was good fun! We all went a bit potty (ha ha!) as we selected the various handmade ceramic pieces we would purchase. In the end Mal and I chose a beautiul complete dinner set, and a few little pieces such as a vase, some platters and little ceramic containers. We figure they will be lovely additions to our new house!
Yes, we are moving into our new place on Saturday! We signed the lease yesterday and forked out the last of our savings (bring on being broke for the next month!) to secure the place. The new house is just gorgeous, we are so lucky to have found somewhere so great so quicky! We knoe some people who have been looking for months to find somewhere. It must have been all the wishing and though projection!
I`ll write more about the house on the weekend when we move in and I can add some pictures too.
That`s what we`ve been up to...hope you are all well too! Missing my friends very much- especially Tabs, Anna, Jackie and Ang (who is the missing link from the posse!)...and my sister Peta and my neice Paige...we must get on Skype sooon!!
Love love
Sim xoxoxox
So we have now officially moved into our flash new pad in Hanoi! Even though moving and unpacking two backpacks, a few bags and a box is nothing like moving an entire house of furniture, it has still been a hectic weekend moving from our friend`s house and into the place we can now call home for the next year or so. We have both had to work, in between signing papers with the landlord, sorting out which plaves to put the stuff we do have, getting stuff to put into places where things need to be, and generally just starting to make the house a home. It was awesome to warm the place with the presence of friends tonight, and to get on the way to feeling a bit more settled in this city. It`s been a beautiful sunshiny weekend, I can`t wait for more so that I can sit on the roof terrace with a beer and muse over the life we have here.
The new house is great- it has everything we need and more! It`s in a central location, right across from one of Hanoi`s most popular attractions, the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum. It is on the corner block in a quiet alley (quiet by Hanoi standards anyway), close to a market and shops and cafes. The house has an awesome new kitchen replete with an oven (rare in Vietnam), a couryard, a lounge, three bedrooms, an office, and the best bit- a rooftop terrace. The fact two that people have a house with three bedrooms means we expect to have visitors, AND friends staying longer term this year (you all know who you are!)...I think we really need a pet...a cat would make the place complete!
I`ve attached some pictures to give you an idea of what our place looks like...more to come...
With cheap airfares through Jetstar and Air Asia now, there are no excuses for not dropping by and filling our house with the happiness of friends!
Love to all!
Sim xoxoxo
They’ve taken over the streets of Hanoi, in an act of rebellion that shows the youth of Vietnam are breaking free from conformity. Now, most nights, when riding home from work, it is impossible to escape them. Groups of too-cool-for-school teens riding little BMX bikes with pegs on the back replete with hand-made number plates with catchy slogans. Young girls stand on the pegs as their boyfriend rides them down the streets with a pack of others, while doing wheelies and generally being a bit of a menace on the roads. The bikes apparently come from Thailand and teens throughout Hanoi have used their Tet lucky money to buy and soup-up these on and off-road vehicles. The packs of at least 10 bicycles, but usually more, ride together, not stopping at red lights (safety in numbers!), hanging out on corners of busy roads and make their presence known- not only through the colourful feather boas wrapped around the handlebars, but through the sound systems wired up to the bikes that blare out techno tunes as they cruise the streets. I think it is amusing (most of the time- I nearly crashed into one kid who was doing a trick and crashed his bicycle in front of me as I was driving- I didn’t think that was too funny at the time!) but I can hardly blame the youths from doing what they can to have a voice. I read somewhere that about a year and a half ago, Vietnam`s Ministry of Culture passed a law on hair. Believe it or not, the legislation made it illegal for artists and performers to dye or shave their heads. Regulation 47 bans "hairstyles which inflict horror, painted or dyed hair, shaved heads or long, uncombed hair". Sounds ridiculous, but that’s Vietnam for you! So for these youngsters living in a society which has laws such as this, who can blame them for doing what they can to be different and to stand out from the crowd? I’m not sure if they are breaking any laws by doing what they are, but at the end of the day they are still pretty good kids...you never see them out past midnight, and you can only presume they have dutifully returned home to be tucked into bed by their parents. Ah, teen rebellion. Just goes to show kids are the same everywhere...let’s just hope there isn’t too much teen pregnancy to go with it!
Can you believe we have now been in Hanoi for over a month?! In some ways it feels like we have been here for longer than that....we have done a lot in a short period of time, and it is sad to say, but we are back into the routine of work which dampens the spirits somewhat. It feels shorter than a month just because it isn`t a long time really to be in a place, and things are so familiar here in Hanoi that it barely seems like we were gone for 8 months!
So what`s been going on? We moved into our flash pad two weeks ago- watch the virtual tour movie which I will upload onto this site- and it has been good to settle in and unpack and have a place to call home for a while. On the downside, a week after we moved in, the house that adjoins ours started to be demolished! I woke up one Saturday morning and thought there was an earthquake, but it was in fact a brick wall being hit with a sledgehammer and then thundering to the ground and onto the wall that joins with our house! Crazy! We were so despondant when this demolition started, as that means there will now be inevitable construction noise all day for the next few months...BUT, so far it has a actually been quite good, just a few bangs at random times this week, so maybe it won`t be soooo bad (fingers crossed!). Check out my movies of the demolition in action!
On the 8th March it was International Women`s Day, a Valentines Day type holiday that the Vietnamese take very seriously! Well, the women do at least! The flower sellers were doing a roaring trade on this day, as men all over the country bought flowers for their mums, sisters, classmates, workmates and partners! As a female teacher, I was showered with several bunches of floral arrangements from some of my male students which was a very sweet gesture really. A strange holiday for me to totally understand, but I guess I don`t come from such a male-dominated society, and I am sure that if I did I would be taking advantage of being a woman on International Woman`s Day too!
Mal and I have both rekindled our love for Vietnamese street food- easy, cheap, delicious and always available, it`s hard not to like it! Our street has several pho and fried rice stands close by, and we have discovered we are within a 2 minute walking distance from about 5 bia hois. For those who have no idea what a bia hoi is, well, it is basically a beer hall where you can buy the cheapest draught beer in the world (4000 Dong a glass....that is about 25 cents) and can also consume cheap and delicious meals and snacks. So we have been frequenting our local bia hois for a cheap and convenient dinner when I get home at about 9:30pm from work. A wholesome meal and a couple of beers totals about $6 in total for the two of us!
On another extreme however, was Joss` birthday dinner at Au Lac Do Brazil. This place is a vegetarian`s worst nightmare! Basically, the waiters bring out cut after cut of meat from various animals, serving it onto everyone`s plates until they declare themselves as full, by turning over a disc on the table. The veggie alternative was some tofu and mushrooms and salad and corn, which was nice enough, but from all accounts the meat eaters fared very well...the sight and smell of so much meat made me feel a bit ill really, I don`t know how everyone could consume so much in one sitting! Joss` birthday cake was really delicious and probably more of a highlight for me!
Another vegetarian`s nightmare was a street which is known as Chicken Street that we visited for some drinks and a feed last weekend . This is like a downmarket version of the Brazillian retsuarant with chicken instead of red meat. We sat down on our kiddy chair, ordered some beers, then we were basically served with skewer after skewer of chicken wings and chicken breast and chicken thighs covered in secret spices that the Colonel would be envious of- so I was told. The vegetarians got to enjoy skewered sweet potato and some really delicious fried bread with a honey coating. It`s a pity so much street food in Vietnam does involve copious amounts of dead animal....
It`s St Patrick`s Day weekend, and all of our Irish friends are madly drinking the weekend away, and have big plans for Monday. There is definitely a lot of Irish in Hanoi, and last night I got to hear some typical Irish folk music played at the Irish pub here. There certainly seems to be a lot going on to celebrate the big day on the 17th!
Apart from all of that, there has been some random nights out drinking at what have become regular haunts when hanging out ...and we have even had a few sunny days where I have met Mal for lunch and we`ve been able to take a stroll around one of the lakes near his work and just chill out. We`ve been really busy with organising the Teach International course in between working our regular jobs, and it is quite exciting that it is all going to be happening at the end of April!
So that`s an update from me...I`ll get Mal onto doing one of his own sometime soon too.
Hope all`s well for all of you!
Love and sunshine
Sim xoxoxoxo
I made this little movie as a tour of the house about a week or so ago...thought I would share for those who are interested! The place is still a bit spartan but when we are paid next month we will start to make the place more of a home...
This movie isn`t meant to freak you out, but is just to give you all an idea of what it is actually like to be riding a motorbike through the traffic here everyday. Think of it like a bird`s eye view! Just for the record, the crash at the end is NOT us, but 2-3 motorbikes on our left (just out of view of the camera)...
It was such a beautiful, warm, sunny day on Sunday, and as it is my only day off, I really enjoyed it. I sat up on the roof terrace at our house and lounged in the sun while drinking a few relaxing beers and reading my book. Such a rare opportunity to chill! Then in the late afternoon I decidedd to take a walk, with the obvious place to walk being the Mausoleum complex accross the road from us. It was actually a great place to sit and people watch while the sun set behind Ho Chi Minh`s resting place. There were heaps of families all out to enjoy the warm weather, to walk their children around, ride bicycles together, exercise and generally congregate, I found it very interesting really to watch all the interactions. More hilarious than interesting was the changing of the guard, something which I think must happen on the hour. At 5pm exactly, three white-suited guards came marching out and up to the door to the Mausoleum which is guarded 24-7. There was a bit of fllounce with their guns and a very smooth transition between the armed guards took place, with the one set of soldiers being reprieved from their motionless staring duties and replaced with a new set of guards for the next tedious hour of very important work. Amusing really! Also amusing was having the whistle blown at me by the green suiited guards for accidentally steping one centimetre over the white line marking an allowed and banned area. I`m glad I finally got the chance to be around at dusk to see all the action and for the people watching, definitely an insight into Vietnamese life!
A few weeks ago I blogged about the insurgence of rebellious teens on bmx bikes, hooning around town with decked-out bicycles. It`s been difficult for me to get a picture of them, but I did manage to get this photo of a biker gang member in the making...tee hee...
These kids were outside Ho Chi Minh`s final resting place messing around. My Bubby Vietnamese isn`t that great, but here is a rough translation...
It must be summer or something!? Either that or I no longer have to work weekends? The last two weekends have been so much fun, and I have been so busy in between that it is only now I get a chance to write about them.
Two weekend`s ago was Hanoi`s first ever music festival! It was organised by the Minsk Club to celebrate their 10th anniversary...it was an excellent event, something Hanoi certainly needs more of. Held at an outdoor venue, the Americal Club, there were bands playing all day from the early afternoon until the evening. The early bands were crazy prog rock eastern European metal bands, and then continued on to Japanese funk, acoustic solo artists and of course dance outfits. There was such a party atmosphere- I think every expat in town was at the event, soaking up the opportunity for live music. unlike other huge festivals where if you lose your friends, you never find them again, this event meant you could wander and bump into someone you knew...there was beer and yummy food like any good music festival, and the drizzly rain even held off for for most of the day!
The only bummer was the police shutting the event down early....but the after-party was at a well known nightclub Solace, which is actually an old boat moored at the Red River, and on this night only, there was a second boat to accommodate the party goers!
It became a messy night that ended early in the morning...but was well worth the pain the next day! It seems this night was the beginning of more party fun...this weekend just gone there were two more parties held by separate events which I ended up drinking at. Friday night was a Noizee organised party, and then Saturday night was the CAMA party. I had a LOT of fun on Sat night...many of the same people from the previous weekend were out and about, and at the end of the party (9which of course the police shut down...this time at 1am and not 11pm) I ended up continuing on with my partner in crime Julianne. We somehow got lured to "fun karaoke". Neither of us was really that keen on the idea of karaoke, and were completely skeptical about going along...but went anyway, and how happy we are that we did! What a way to conquer the police curfew!
We arrived at the karaoke bar tucked away behind the train station and entered an after party sanctuary! There wasn`t a karaoke song list in site...instead the room was taken over by party goers dancing to a live DJ in the sound proofed karaoke room. The only signs of being in a karaoke bar were the nicely cut platter of fruit...even the dodgy film clips were shut down for this event! I ended up dancing to the beats til 6am when there was a motorbike ride home at sunrise in the middle of Vietnam market traffic...so unappealing!
So two bender weekends, soooo much fun!
A bunch of other stuff has been happening too...during the days on the weekend and during all time off Mal and I have been busy working on final organisation of the TI course at the end of the month, and of course I have had my new teaching job to settle into. Totally loving my new school, sooooo happy being back here now!
Mal has his own news I`ll let him share...i`ll let you all get on with the pictures...
/begin rant
It’s definitely a different experience being in a country for the second time. Has the traffic gotten tamer or have I just become accustomed to it?
After seeing a couple of accidents happen and watching a guy dying on the street I’ve decided that it’s definitely the latter rather than the former.
The strange thing is that I feel safer than ever. You realise that although there are a load of road accidents here, it’s always a young kid or farmer and never someone actually driving within the bounds of physics. These drivers do something really stupid like go through a red light at Warp 9 and hit another young person or farmer who is also trying to break the space time continuum. It’s kind of like a fission reaction… but with motorbikes and people instead of enriched Uranium.
Vietnam seems to have changed even in the time we’ve been gone. The surge in wealth is palpable. There are newer, bigger motorbikes, and an exponential increase in cars on a seemingly daily basis, despite that fact that a car is impractical, slow and expensive. It’s interesting to literally behold a country changing before your eyes. A global trend which I thought the proud Vietnamese would largely ignore has taken hold day by day.
The basket ladies are still definitely around, but they are less frequent. A new law has been passed regulating footpath vending. Such things as selling things on the roadside aren’t considered “civilized” any more by the government, despite the thousands year old tradition.
Don’t get me wrong, Hanoi is an ancient city steeped in tradition; one of the beautiful old ladies of Asia; one which is so different to home and contains so much to offer. It’s just worrying to see the seed of homogenization here, and to think that as expats we are partially responsible. Every time we address a local in English, we are contributing to it. It’s our responsibility to integrate as much as possible.
Or are we just moving closer to a common way of thinking? Is this a good thing? Do cultures have to be unique and distinct?
Fuck it. I dunno.
/end rant.
Tomorrow we’re getting on our motorbikes with some friends and driving through the beautiful sunshine and the Vietnam countryside. Our destination is a natural hot springs set in stunning surrounds, two hours out of Hanoi … oh yeah.
I’ve just scored a wicked job that I’m really excited about. It’s teaching staff English at a hotel. The job is interesting, the money is great and I get 3 days off per week. Looking forward to the time ahead. I’ve started playing music again. The food here is great, every day is different, and life is interesting. Can’t ask for anything more… except for a bouncy air castle… oh and a fountain in the shape of a breast that produces beer….oh and…
Last Tuesday was a public holiday in Vietnam, to commemorate the death of King Hung (whoever he was?!), and there was a bunch of us who couldn`t take Monday off to take a long weekend away, so instead we got away for just the day!
It was such a fabulous day! We formed a convoy of expats- 14 people on 8 motorbikes- and drove for about two hours west of Hanoi to a place called Hoa Binh. At Hoa Binh is the V Resort, where we could "return to the nature" for a day. I was actually pleasantly suprised by this place! I have been to Vietnamese resorts before and they are usually not so nice, but this place has it pretty sorted! They even have a website: www.vresort.com.vn
The drive at first was harrowing, getting out of the city is never fun in the crazy traffic, but once we got off the highway and onto the back roads, we were treated to some beautiful countryside where we were surrounded by limestone mountains and green rice fields, really quite stunning.
The weather was miraculously perfect, and we swam and drank beers, soaked in the hot springs, lay in the sauna and generally just chilled out for hours! The air was clean, it was peaceful and quite serene and nobody really wanted to leave when that time came.
It`s little trips like this that make living here so good, and now that Mal and I have weekends off together, we plan to do more fun stuff like this. Driving the motorbikes makes these trips easy as an independent person, and with a group it`s even more fun.
So thanks King Hung for making such an impact you get a public holiday in your memory, and thanks Julianne for organising!
There`s another week-long holiday next week but Mal and I will be busy, busy, busy with the Teach International course- the cohort arrives this weekend! Yikes!
We`ve received exciting news this week also, that we have friends coming to visit and stay in the coming weeks. I`m most happy about Tabitha coming for 6 months- yey!!!!
Hope all is well with everyone
Sim xoxoxoxoxo
No really!
Okay so perhaps it was the Big Day Out in Hanoi… and instead of 50 000 people it was more like 1000, but hey, there was beer and a stage, so I think it qualifies.
It was a fun day. The bar staff went crazy and ended up having a huge mud fight. They were serving chilli vodka, a drink straight from the bowels of hell.
My mic stand fell over for my first solo. We got free drinks, enough cash for a dodgy curry each and about three more gigs out of this one. Can’t ask for anything more.
A millon things...or so it seems!!! Here`s a quick update since my last entry almost 6 weeks ago!!!
The first ever Teach International Hanoi course at the end of April/start of May kept both myself and Mal busy for the weeks leading up to it and even busier during the fortnight that it took place. I`d say it was a success, with 12 graduating teachers now in the TESOL realm and 13 more completing their prac. It wasn`t without a few hitches, but for the first time around, I`d say we did well, and we now know what to do better for the next time. It was great to spend time with my old Brisbane colleague Justine and to show her my Hanoi as well!
No sooner had the prac teaching week ended, and the rise and rise of the Van Ho Ba funk band which Mal and a bunch of our friends are part of, began. First was a headline performance at the Hanoi Big Day Out music charity event. Next was an awesome performance at a fundraiser chairty event organised by Joss and Kate, with contributions from many others. This event was organised to raise money for Myanmar, and it was a huge success thanks to the Green Mango venue holder Hai, and the generosity of many local organisations and the local Hanoians themselves, who paid a donated entry fee and bought raffle tickets. Over US $3000 in total was raised to give to the Myanmar people devastated by the cyclone. Oh and the band got shown on the news on local TV!
In the meantime, two sets of visitors have landed on our fine shores. First the beautiful Angela, who made the previous Hanoi housemates circle almost complete (sans Marie who is still jetsetting around Europe) then there was the double duo of Tonya and Geoff and Dianne and Anders. We have now proven that our house can serve as a guesthouse, and has inspired me to think that maybe Mal and I could start our own Hanoi private tour company :-)
And as if all that wasn`t enough, I have a new job! I am now the Academic Co-ordinator of the Pho Hue branch of ACET in Hanoi! It`s the same school where I have been teaching the past couple of months, but in a new, promoted management role. I am really, really excited about this role and whilst I know it will be a challenge, it will also be great experience.
The summer has also well and truly hit- we have had a few 36 degree days recently...it`s funny when these hot, sunny days are here, because everyone hides in the air-con and people who have to stop on their motorbikes on the roads will hide under whatever shade they can find while they stop at the traffic lights, in order to avoid the sweltering sun. Sun hats and sun smocks have also come out in force the past few weeks!
I`m sure there has been other stuff that has happened as well, but I think that is the low-down! Most weekends are pretty crazy, going out with my friends here drinking and playing at parties about town, and there is certainly never a dull moment or quiet time (even if you want it!).
We are now eagerly awaiting the end of the construction next door so we can sleep past 7am and for the arrival of the darling Tabitha in a few weeks!
A busy life is a good life, right?
Sim xo
I just wanted to share some pics and movies of a jam session which was held in the Ly Thai To square near Hoan Kiem Lake in Hanoi a couple of weekends ago. The reason for the jam was to see-off Michael, now former Van Ho Ba member who has left Hanoi for the Phillipines...and it turned into an excellent opportunity to hang out in the summer sun, play same jams, do some people watching and to also be watched and to generally relax on a Sunday afternoon!
Is not what you would have heard when our posse scooted past on our 100CC Honda waves, but hey, we were wearing sunnies, my helmet has a flame job, and my bike has side saddles, so that’s close enough.
We went to Mai Chau this weekend, and it was good. And hot. Incomprehensibly fucking hot. I got a flat tube as the rubber had melted!
The drive was good. The things you gotta look out for apart from potholes is psychopathic truck drivers and suicidal chickens and buffalo. Fortunately we didn’t encounter too many of each.
It’s nice to get out of Hanoi and be reminded that the sky is indeed blue, air can be nice to breathe, the stars are still there, and life doesn’t need to be complicated and busy. Whilst it’s true we have it lucky, I saw more smiles out there than I do in any given week in the city.
Well, he`s not quite "magic" but he is good at disappearing! On Tuesday night I brought the cutest ever little creature home- carried him in my backpack and drove home on my motorbike, the scared thing mewing the whole way. When he got home he was freaked, so Mal and I left him to chill out a bit, leaving him in the downstairs area of our house. We went away and came back 5 minutes later, and he was gone! We looked everywhere for him, it was like he had vanished into thin air!! We looked behind and under every nook and cranny of the kitchen...then we started shifting things, inlcuding the fridge...which is where we found him- stuck in the motor! It tooks hours of coxing but in the end we had to forcibly remove him...not the best thing for an already frightened kitten to have to experience. His first few days with us involved lots of mewing- he missed his mum- and hiding in dark corners. But the last two days he`s become a normal, very cute, very affectionate and very, very playful kitten! I love him so much! Kittens bring such nice eneregy, and they are fun to play with too. Houdini has received a bill of health from the vet, who thankfully does house visits so I didn`t have to traumatise him with the motorbike ride, and is ready to rock the world!
With the new(ish) laws enforcing the use of helmets when riding a motorbike in Vietnam, there has emerged a whole new line of fashion. Since the start of summer, traditionally a time when local women would start donning summer bonnets and guys cool caps, has come the need for a different kind of hat fashion. In the past two months I have seen the evolution of helmet fashion. It started off as these nifty little bonnet-shades that can clip onto the outside of most normal bike helmets, thus providing the appearance of a fashionable bonnet and not that of an ugly helmet. Then I saw the mens` version appear. Helmets in the guise of baseball caps! These have since become popular among both male and female teens. Completely unsafe but oh so desirable for the tendy fashionistas!
It`s not all fashion though. In fact, the fashion police would have a field day with the typical summer and rainy season attire. On blazing hot summer days it is not uncommon to see women donning paint smocks in lary, bright patterns which cover the mits, neck and collar, protecting skin from the sun (and hence staying fashionably white). Wearing this along with the usual smog-protecting face mask, you can barely decipher a person underneath the clothing shield. On rainy days, such as that this morning, instead of people riding the motorbikes, it is blobs- the poncho which covers the entire body and which includes a hood for the head is worn with a helmet on top and mask underneath the poncho on the face, covering every inch of skin in order to protect from the wet, the pollution and potential head damage!
With the exposure that comes with riding a motorbike, the fashion that goes along with it is a niche market in its own right...one that I never imagined I`d become such a close observer of until I was among it and also wearing it!
No, this is not an entry about my daily commute to and from work...it`s an entry about our new palacial palace! Yup, we moved into a school!! The house hunt for a new abode began back in July when we reluctantly agreed to cut ties with the construction and get out. The job hunt was tiring, and involved viewing lots of crappy houses and I was starting to feel frustrated having to deal with snoozy and annoying agents. Then I was taken to a school...where I thought we were meeting the landlord so we could then go look at the houses...until I realised that this WAS the house I came to see! Even though it was a fully functioning school at this time, I realised the potential- the place was quiet and had a nice vibe, the rooms were big, the landlord seemed nice, the location was pretty good and after doing some negotiating, the price was also right! I got Tab and Mal to look at the next day and before we knew it, we were paying deposits, signing contracts and making plans to move into a house, turned school, which was again to be reconverted to a home!
Needless to say, we were probably a little ambitious. The move was a shocker- I wish I`d convinced the guys to pay for a removalist company- and the house still functioned as a school for about a week, with us allocated just two rooms of the giant place to live in while tables, desks, whiteboards and school books were removed, and fridges, beds, hangers, and an oven were brought to replace them. The place was cleaned, walls painted and with Mal and Tab`s little touches while I was away in Oz, the school has become a home! It`s great!
So what`s it like? Well, it has five levels. You walk into an area which used to be reception and which we have turned into a chill out lounge zone with a big bamboo table with guitars and cushions. Then there`s our huge kitchen with a brand spanking new oven and an area that leads out to a pond...next floor is our dedicated office, and our lounge room...next level is Mal`s and my room replete with ensuite and opposite our room is a spare room for guests...next level is Tabitha`s room and a dedicated band rehearsal space...then finally the last level is our now well-equipped gym (we`re all on health and fitness kicks!) and the laundry room/ancestor altar room/roof terrace area. Voila! Our mansion!
It`s light and airy, the rooms are big, there`s heaps of space to chill in, Houdini is now fully accustomed to the enormity and I just got him a collar with bell making it easier to locate him! We have heaps of plants and are slowly decking it out into a beautiful, comfortable home...don`t think I will ever want to leave!
What a whirlwind of a week!!! It was a pretty intense build up to my folks` arrival from Australia to Vietnam- their first ever Asian destination and first time out of the country for my dad! I was so busy with work the weeks before their arrival and I just wanted everything to be perfect so that now, at the end of the past 7 days, I can hardly believe they have already been and gone!
We did it all- well, as much as one can do in 6 days! Old Quarter walks, Hoan Kiem strolls, Fanny`s ice-cream, tailor-shops, optometry stops, water puppets, foot massages, West Lake, Museum of Ethnology visit, dinner and lunches at my fave restaurants...and even though the Halong Bay trip was cancelled due to a typhoon off the coast, we had a wonderful time out in the countryside of Ninh Binh and Tam Coc. The traffic was of course a highlight, and I think the whole experience was as eye opening as it was overwhelming! It was so nice to show my parents "my Hanoi" and to get around time as a tourist for the week.
I also enjoyed the delicious meals and visiting the floating village in Tam Coc, which is probably the first place I have seenin Vietnam that is pristine and untouched by tourism!
It`s surreal for me that it is all over, but hope there will be a next time!
It started raining about this time last night, and it hasn`t stopped. I am not talking a bit of a shower, a few sprinkles of rain. No, I am talking about a steady, torrential downpour that continues relentlessly, easing for only for minutes at a time. That is almost 24 hours of rain, and that water has nowhere to go! Hanoi`s flood mitigation system is non-existent, and the roads are like rivers, intersections are like small lakes and there is water everywhere! the usually crazy Hanoi traffic has reached a standstill, people are forced to push their motorbikes through the massive puddles of water after they have stalled, and water has reached the bonnets of most of the compact cars. Everyone is stuck in their homes, too scared to venture out into the flood waters...I wonder if the rain will ever stop? At least the prospect of a weekend in lays ahead, providing me some much needed, essential down time. Thunder still rumbles and lightning flashes, it seems this strange, out of season, monsoon-like storm has more to give us. What a strange, exciting and slightly scary phenomena to expereience! Happy Halloween!!
Check out this site for some even better pictures of Hanoi underwater! Raft anyone?
http://vnexpress.net/GL/Xa-hoi/2008/10/3BA07F7A/
What a contrast between this entry and the last! Hanoi has such odd weather patterns! No sooner have the floods subsided, and the Dengue Fever plague begun, and the sun has come out in force! I`m talking beautiful, November sun, that beats down lightly, with blue skies as the backdrop, pouring sunshiny happiness down onto the streets and making everything and everyone look shiny and happy and pretty. It`s just too gorgeous, and it has been like this since Saturday, after one last half-hearted attempt by Nature to rain a storm on Friday night. This sunshine came just in time for the HSCV Annual Fundraiser, an outdoor event to raise money for the Humanitarian Services for Children of Vietnam, an NGO run by my friend Annetta. It was a fun day! Sooo many cute kids getting face painted up and performing dance routines, and lots of beer and yummy food and friends to hang with. I was a roaving raffle ticket seller which was fun, although it meant I couldn`t enter the raffles myself and there were some great prizes to be won! Of course the sunny day turned to night and there were some top musical performances, including Bethany and Ryan and the Van Ho Ba who are sounding great and look like they have so much fun on stage.
The lovely sun has kept up this whole week and it is so nice to see the dappled rays shuning into my bedroom window in the morning and to cruise down the wide Hanoi boulevards with the sun shining through the trees. What a glorious time to be in Hanoi...I wish it would never end and the winter would never come! And that I wasn`t inside at work all day.....
One thing that I really missed when living in China was nice, fresh bread and cheese. These are two cravings which I just don`t have to worry about having here in Hanoi, where both seem to be of abundance. Especially when you get a bunch of hungover expats organised (or is that disorganised...a little bit of prior communication about who was bringing what may have avoided over-excess of cheese and bread!) on a Sunday afternoon for a picnic and that is what you get! In an attempt to make the most of the warm weather and sunshine that has been pouring down on us recently, and to soak the rays up before the cold of winter sets in, we had a picnic along the Red River. We basically took over a table at a restaurant and justified the position by buying juices and beers. It was fun, albeit tiring...all. that. cheeeeeese. to. eat.....
As we sat and consumed, we watched a steady stream of boats and barges stream past and it amused me the way that even the sailors couldn`t resist honking, even though not another boat was within a 5 kilometer radius. I think that horn honking is an inate talent that Hanoians are born with.
More horrifying than amusing, was watchiing workers from the restaurant dump an entire garbage bin full of rubbish into the Red River. So sad how that just isn`t even considered a crime here in Vietnam :-(
I hope this isn`t the last chance for a picnic before Hanoi`s winter kicks in....it`s a great way to feel like you are almost out fo the raucous city for a few hours.
It was a sunny Saturday at the American Club, perfect for the second Hanoi International Music Festival! It became quite a drunken affair, with beers being consumed quite early on in the day, but was heaps of fun! Some great live music, kicked off by the Van Ho Ba and then continuing with break dancers, boy bands from Thailand, girl bands from Beijing and a handful of electronic acts from Australia. The day actually went by in a blur, and it`s sad that there won`t be another event like this in Hanoi for a while. Last of the summer festival fun....at least it went off with a bang...
In an attempt to NOT feel like I live in the teachers` room at school, I have been making the most of the sunny days and taking self-indulgent strolls for an hour in the afternoon. I am least productive between the hours of 2-4pm, so it is a good excuse to get out and get some exercise and to soak up some sun. These days at the moment remind me of mid-winter in Brisbane. Clear, blue skies, sunny warmth all day and then as soon as it gets dark, a crisp coolness hits the air. It`s actually really cold when on the motorbike, and it is now essential to wear a jacket and scarf when taking journeys in the morning or evening. Anyway, it is while I have been on these afternoon strolls in the sun that it makes me realise just how beautiful Hanoi`s streets can be when the boulevards are dappled in sunlight...it almost makes me forget the noisy, hurly-burly traffic, the pollution in the air and the constant obstacles on the footpaths that make any kind of walking a bit stressful. The footpaths here are either blocked by motorbikes, or by construction, or they are filled with potholes that could swallow a small child or animal, so it`s not exactly a leisurely stroll.
This week, as I have walked down the busy road Pho Hue where I work, I have been reminded of some of my first impressions of Hanoi. It was two years ago that I first arrived here, and I remember that I was amazed by how life seems to play out here on the streets. I walk by heaps of motorbike accessory shops and helmet shops on Pho Hue and outside each of them there is a family who runs the shop. They sit on small plastic kiddy-sized stools and just live their lives. Little kids will run around or are held by ther adoring parents or grandparents. Old men and women just sit and chill, men will drink tea and smoke cigarettes, women will gossip while plucking grey hairs or washing and preparing vegetables to cook. People will just lean and watch, as traffic whooshes by on the road and basket ladies stroll and spruik their wares. The streets really are where Vietnamese life takes place. It`s such a different concept to life in Australia where everything happens in the privacy of the home, a place in which we close our doors to the outside world and protect ourselves with gates. I`m not sure that I would enjoy the lack of privacy, but certainly the sense of community here is something to envy.
So whilst my lunchtime strolls are hadrly relaxing, they are enjoyable and a good way to remind myself of where I am living. Seems strange that sometimes it is easy to forget, it`s just that life becomes so comfortable and normal in tbis strange land. I am hoping the sun continues to shine the way it has the past few days for at least another week...though this being Hanoi with its changeable weather system, I don`t expect it will.
I really have been making the most of it though, and this weekend was no exception. With the trip I`d planned to Bangkok unable to go ahead, it was a free weekend. When I woke up on Saturday morning and the weather was just so lovely I escaped the house and took an hour long walk from my house to the Old Quarter, I stopped in at shops along the way and zigzagged across the streets to capture the sun wherever it was shining. Again I saw the regular streets through new eyes and even discovered a great new breakfast/brunch cafe too. When riding the motorbike it is easy to miss so much which you can much more easily take in and enjoy when walking. I took my camera too and took some snaps along the way. I`ve been neglecting my photography for a while, but the sunny streets provided me with plenty of inspiration this weekend.
So, for as long as the sun in shining, I just have to bask in it at every opportunity I can! And when the grey, cold winter descends at least I can remember how beautiful Hanoi can be when the streets are bathed in light.
The past few two weekends in Hanoi have been culture explosion. A very mixed bag of different things have been happening and life has been a wonderful cultural immersion.
Last weekend was the Multucultural Festival. Held at the International School, it was like a giant school fete or a mini Ekka Ehibition Hall, and was well beyond what I had expected to see. All the embassies from everywhere contributed to stalls where they sold traditional food (and beer!) as well as sold traditional goods and handicrafts. There were also local businesses and thousands of people from everywhere. It`s at events like this, where there were Thai dancers, Indian belly dancers, various bands and people speaking so many languages all around me that I wonder where all these people live in Hanoi and why do I never see them out regularly! The sun was shining too, and it was a great day out.
That night I was offered some tickets to a symphony concert at the Opera House. I had been hearing about this performance, which featured solo piano from a Russian prodigy of 24 years old. I decided to go along as I`d never been to the Opera House, and I`m so glad I did as it really was amazing. We had awesome seats on the stage level, right behind the pianist Ilya Rashkovsky, so we could see his fingers fly over the keyboard with such deft and skill as the orchestra also did their amazing performance. It always amazes me how synchonised orchestra players are, and what talent there is out there.
This past weekend I got to go to West End Theatre in Hanoi! The local theatre company HITS was putting on a performance of Blood Brothers. My friend Ruth was directing and she did an amazing job. As did the actors and actresses, whose performances and amazing singing voices, meant it was an absolutely professional show! Again, there is so much talent out there!
The last cultural event has been rather special. My colleague and good friend Dung (pronounced Zoom) got married! Myself and some other teachers who she works with were invited to the party and the actual ceremony and I jumped at the chance to go to a traditional wedding in the countryside. I also could not miss the marriage of this wonderful woman who is like my little sister. The party was held on Sunday afternoon. An afffair that basically involved drinking tea, having a traditional meal, drinking some beer and then heading off again! Very different to our wedding receptions which are lengthy affairs with speeches but are also a real show of the new couple`s love. At this Vietnamese wedding party, the husband wasn`t even there- he was having his own party with his friends and family a few kilometers away!
Today was the actual ceremony, which essentially is a series of rituals. We arrived, had some food, then waited at Dung`s family home where she awaited the arrival of her husband`s delegation. She received them at her home and had lots of pictures taken, there was a brief speech, exhcnaging of rings, putting ona necklace from her mother, then more pics. Then both delegations of family and friends took Dung to her husband`s home. This is now HER home, where she will live and help to look after her husband`s family. Poor thing has to drive an hour to work every day now, at least for the first year of marriage unless her mother-in-law renigs and lets her stay in Hanoi with her new husband.
Dung is a gorgeous lady, and she looked beautiful in her bridal gowns (a different gown for each day). She has taught me heaps about the traditions surrounding marriage and weddings here and it has been great to learn so much about life here. It makes me happy to be an Australian woman a lot of the time- women here still do it pretty rough, with emancipation to yet really emerge through the strict, long-held Vietnamese traditions. My good friend Sally and I taught Dung a little about our traditions too, and last week we took her on a "hen`s" night. It was a low-key affair, dinner and some beers- when Dung drank about half a beer then felt tiddly, and we were home by 10pm...but it`s nice to have this kind of cultural exchange while living here.
Definitely a culture explosion!
I am running out of space on this site for new pictures, so I have uploaded a fuller set of pictures on Facebook. Go to my profile or use these links to the different albums:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=54207&l=089e0&id=517788015
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=54212&l=5897b&id=517788015
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=54222&l=d6365&id=517788015
The best thing about being in Hanoi is that I get to escape the Christmas commercialism....almost. It was easy to actually forget Christmas was just around the corner until about a week ago, when slowly decorations started appearing all over the place. It all started at work. I walked out of the teachers room and into the reception area and it took me a good few minutes to figure out what looked different- and then I realised that tinsel was everywhere, and a Christmas tree adorned the shelf where vases of flowers usually are. As the day wore on, and with every trip out of the teacher`s room, more and more Christmas decorations appeared- tinsel down the banniesters, snowflakes stuck on walls....From here, the rest of Hanoi seemed to also catch on. Christmas displays of santas and reindeer and Christmas trees have popped up in most prominent public places, and Christmas carols seem to be blaring from every shop. I`m just happy it all began a week before the event, and not months like at home!
My school had its Christmas party this weekend which involved all the Vietnamese staff, all their children and the teachers all mingling in a nice restaurant for a Christmas dinner and lots of wine. Santa even made a visit...it was so funny to see all the kids crowding around waiting for Santa to call their name to receive a present. It was very Vietnamese, with Santa shouting the Vietnamese informal greeting followed by the child`s name, so we got to hear "Oi oi oi, Linh oi!", "Oi oi oi Minh oi!" as opposed to a Ho ho ho which I traditionally know to be a Santa call!
To be honest, the thing I am most looking forward to is the day off on Thursday. I`ve organised a group of expat "orphans" to meet for a long boozy lunch at one of the fine dining restaurants here. I`ve also maintained enough self control to NOT open the box that came from Australia, so that there is something to open on Christmas morning. It`s always a funny time of year to be away, and strange to not be around family, though the little Hanoi family of friends here means this period is definitely not one that is lonely!
The temperature has also dropped significantly the past few days, and there is no doubt winter has hit, especially when on the motorbike to work at 7am. This makes images of snowflakes, snowmen and reindeer seem a little bit more appropriate than at home. But how sad that the blue skies and sunny days have now been replaced by grey skies and chill...time to hibernate in Hanoi once the festive season has ended!
Vietnam Vo Dich! Vietnam Victorious! This chant was heard for hours until the wee hours last Sunday night after Vietnam one an historical football match. It was the first SE Asian football tournament that Vietnam has won in 49 years ….and they won by a penalty shoot-out in the last second of the game. Within minutes of the win against Thailand, millions of Hanoians took to the Hoan Kiem Lake where they did laps on motorbikes until the crowds took over the roads and traffic reached a standstill. The ensuing celebration was unlike anything I have ever experienced! There was no crowd control, no police, but millions of revellers, peacefully and happily showing their support and patriotism. Vietnamese people of all ages from small babies to elderly men were part of the victory celebration, donning headbands, flags, streamers; banging any implement they could find to make noise; shouting and screaming and waving and being truly overjoyed about their country’s success. It didn’t matter that the AFF cup had just 5 other SE Asian teams, this was an excuse to celebrate their national pride. It was amazing that there was no violence and the naughtiest that people got was not wearing their helmets on their motorbikes…oh and a few brave men climbed trees to wave their flags and to shout down from. The normally quiet late-night streets were completely transformed for this celebration, included fireworks, paper lanterns and crowd surfing…it was intense and completely impossible not to get wrapped up in the spirit of the moment. Check out the movies to get more of an idea of what it was like! Check out my Facebook album to see even more pics!
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=57716&l=4d2a1&id=517788015
No sooner had I got over the festive frenzy of Christmas and New Year, and the pre-Tet madness has now begun in full force. I spent the Christmas-New Year week eating and drinking my way around Hanoi with the friends here who didn’t leave the city, and had a great time! A five course Christmas lunch at the lovely restaurant Five was then followed by a 10 course dinner at Green Mango! There were several birthday parties (I have never experienced so many festive season birthdays!) and then a big party at our favourite Red Mao’s Bar for New Years Eve. A group of good friends took over the bar with BYO bottles of bubbly and celebrated the new year in good company, with lots of dancing and bubbles and merriment. Later I saw the break of the new year’s dawn with a stroll around the Hoan Kiem Lake, which was the perfect way to end 2008 and begin 2009 afresh. It is now the lead-up to Tet, the Vietnaese lunar new year, and already the streets are packed with vehicles, people are madly stocking up on supplies and making plans for the holiday at the end of the month, stores are all "sale off", and there is a general frenetic air about the place. It’s only going to get crazier too! I dread the traffic jams! I can also tell it is Tet-time because the thermometer has dropped…after a nice, sunny, warm day, it seems the grey and cold has set in. While 13 degrees is not freezing cold, when on a motorbike there is the added wind-chill factor which makes leaving the house and travelling around not all that desirable. Hibernation time! Well, for me it is just for another week or so….then I am going to be long-deserved break in Bali for two weeks. Not only will I escape the peak of the festive frenzy, but also the lowest of low temperatures…cannot wait!
It`s official. I am an indulgence junkie. In the past few weeks I have: eaten multi-course meals at fine-dining establishments, drunk cocktails at five star hotels, had weekly massages, visited a beauty spa, been to the hairdresser twice- for a haircut and then a colour, enjoyed a deluxe a pedicure, had two facials, eaten more chocolate than I ever imagined possible from a buffet selection, I have been shopping for new dresses...I am addict to pleasure, and I don`t know how to stop it!
I guess being able to enjoy the fine things in life is one of the best thing about living in Hanoi. It`s not only easy to find relaxing and indulgent opportunities, but it is also very affordable to have these treats regularly...there`s no need to wait for a bad day, it is something I can do every day if I so desire...but that WOULD probably equate to over-indulgence...
It`s nice to feel like a super star on a regular basis and I think I could get used to this lifestyle...it might be impossible for me to live a normal life in Australia again one day...but who could blame me, right?
Finally, a Bali entry! This trip was taken from 17th Jan-1st Feb, so it started a month ago, but is one of the most worthy places I`ve been to for an entry on this blog, so better late than never!!
I had heard so many good things about Bali that I went in with very high expectations. At first it was a little disappointing when I visited Bali’s beaches and found them to be nowhere near as beautiful and as clean as Australia’s….but then when Sally (my travelling companion) and I got a tip-off from a girl I spoke to and found a paradisical beach away from the tourists, I decided Bali really was a dream destination. And at the end of the day it had very little to do with the beaches…it was the people, their culture, the food and the serene and peaceful surrounds that really made Bali so special. The people in Bali are some of the most calm, patient, relaxed and caring people I have ever met in my travels, nothing was too much trouble and everything was done with a smile (and quiety!). The interesting blend of Hinduism, Buddhism and animism which the Balinese follow pervades every aspect of life. The daily ritual of preparing and giving offerings at temples, at the corners of the house/building and at any dangerous intersection was just one of the intricate details that make up existence for people in Bali. The Balinese eye for aesthetic beauty was just incredible to me, and flowers were placed everywhere! Life really does evolve around their spiritual beliefs, and everything from the art to the amazing dancing make for a culture unlike any other. It is simply divine!
We spent a week on the coast where we hired motorbikes, ate at fine dining establishments, lay on the beach, lay by pools in five star hotels and generally indulged, in things like the “Perfect Massage” and shopping! The second week was spent in artistic and spiritual hub, Ubud. Here we relished life in our very own private villa with numerous beds, several relaxing bales (pavilions) in a gorgeous garden, and a private pool! We did things like a cooking class, took long walks through the rice fields and villages and just soaked up the peace and quiet which is impossible to find in Vietnam. I celebrated my birthday in a spa where we indulged in a 6 hour pamper session involving a massage, body scrub, rose petal bath, hair treatment and head massage, facial, manicure and pedicure (with some lunch in-between!). We ate dinner at one of the many nice restaurants Bali has on offer and watched salsa dancing while sipping cocktails. There was lots of this fine-dining and cocktail drinking over the two weeks away, fresh, delicious food being cheap and abundant!
I got inspired while in Bali…to pursue the things I have been wanting to pursue for a long time but which I had forgotten while getting wrapped up in the hustle, bustle and general speed of life in Hanoi. I am now more focused than I have been in a long time (the time away again made me remember the things I love and which I have been missing out on while in Hanoi) and I am actively working towards some personal goals for the future (which had been left by the wayside over the past 4 years). It’s been hard coming back to Hanoi where life is easy but maybe not so fulfilling spiritually, emotionally and physically. But let me just say that one of the goals is returning to Bali- sooner, rather than later, and maybe next time more permanently!
I still have only a little space for new pictures, so go to these links to see the folders of photos I have posted on Facebook.
Bali Food and Booze: Sally and I ate and drank our way through the coast abd Ubud...see what we ate here:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=64617&id=517788015&l=7e916
Bali`s Gardens and Flowers: Wow! There are gorgeous flowers everywhere in Bali! Check them out, including some cool macros!
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=64840&id=517788015&l=1f7d5
The Lilly Lala Villa in Ubud: The most amazing place I have ever stayed! A whiole villa with pool and garden just for us!!
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=64845&id=517788015&l=a09bf
Bali`s Beaches: Some white, sandy beaches, sunsets and sunshine:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=65016&id=517788015&l=d93f3
Bali`s Beautiful People: See what the people were like, some noce portraits:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=65006&id=517788015&l=376e5
Bali Bliss 1:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=65190&id=517788015&l=213bb
Bali Bliss 2:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=65196&id=517788015&l=dff26
One of my new year`s resolutions this year was to get out of Hanoi at least once a month...and I must say that this has been an easy and fun resolution to keep....but it`s also meant that life has been busy! Along with regular jaunts out of town, there has been a series of guests and events, meaning life has been far from boring, to the point of being too hectic, and hence explains the lack of blogging going on this year!
So to briefly recap....since Bali, I have:
- ventured to Bangkok for a long weekend away with playmates and partners in crime Tanya and Brian. The weekend involved a lot of shopping, swimming, sunning and drinking! SOOOOOooooooo much fun!
- tripped to Halong Bay with my flatmate Becs before she returned to Australia...a chill weekend in the Bay where we met a lovely Spanish couple and got to see the sights of Halong
- enjoyed an absolutely hedonistic weekend away with 27 others to our own private beach in Cat Ba National Park, Truly unforgettable (what I remember!)...rock climbing, camping, bonfires, camp dinners, phosperesance, kayaks, beach games and a LOT of booze
- journeyed for a long weekend away to the secluded and gorgeous beaches of Quan Lan Island, north of Halong Bay. 8 lovely friends, sunshine, boats, drinking games, seafood, sand and sunsets. Woot!
In addition to all those little trips, there was the departure from Hanoi of friends Abs and Steve, which entailed a series of going-away parties....there was a couple of birthdays...a music festival...a music gig....a pyjama party....Earth Hour....I warmly welcomed the return to Hanoi of my good friend Sally who is now also my house mate....and had a visit from different sets of friends from home, first Anna and Clint, then Dipesh, then Jackie, and then Nicole. Playing tour guide is fun, and I now have the tour of "My Hanoi" down pat for any future guests. At the same time as my friendss visiting, my flatmate also had a good friend in town, so at some stage we had more people than rooms and beds in the house, which is saying something for the Van Bao Street Mansion. The house resembled a hostel for a couple of weeks!
It`s been fun but exhausting....and I am now looking forward to a more mellow May (which we are ALREADY halfway through....jeez, this year is FLYING by....must be having fun!) These are some of my favourite pics from the past 3 months, enjoy!
I have always thought that Hanoi is super pretty when the sun shines. Rays of light shine thorugh the tress, making the streets look dappled. West Lake is simply stunning as the sun sets over the water, reflecting orange light off the lake. Summertime also brings the scent of flowers wafting through the air, and there seems to be more birds and frogs making their sounds in the evening. I do love the summer time! Lately, I`ve also been driving to work with the sun-rising on the horizon ahead and then driving home into the setting sun to the west. Makes me think I need to be out and actually enjoying the warmth more, rather than being stuck inside at work! Gotta get as many rays as I can on the weekend!
One of the best things about be an expat in Hanoi is getting to know things to do that a tourist just wouldn't. One of the worst kept secrets is the Sunday lunch at Melia Hotel (one of the 5-star places!). For $25 is unlimited buffet (with everything you can imagine on offer) with free-flow champaign. Such great value, and with nothing else to do on a summer Sunday, a group of us took to the challenge. We arrived at 11:30am when it started and were the last people to leave at 3pm when the champaign ran dry! It was messy, but yummy, and fun...I'd like to do it again...if the Melia wouold let us back after our rather rowdy behaviour! Oh and next time I'd suggest we go home and sleep off the bubbly, and skipping the tiddly post-feast swim!
In keeping with my staying-sane resolution to get out of Hanoi once a month, my May excursion took me away to the peaceful countryside town of Mai Chau. The purpose for this trip was not just to get away….but was also to participate in a yoga retreat for the weekend. I managed to leave work early on Friday afternoon and by 6pm a group of 20 of us had arrived at Mai Chau, about 4 hours south of Hanoi by bus. The retreat’s accommodation was at the Mai Chau Lodge, a gorgeous luxury hotel set among the Mai Chau hills and rice paddies. This weekend away became one of the more up-market ones that I have enjoyed recently, with not only many hours of yoga and meditation each day, but also access to the lodge facilities (steam room, sauna, Jacuzzi, pool!) and three delicious, 3 course vegetarian meals every day! The staff who were working at the Lodge were all very attentive, with the little touches certainly making the experience special and one to remember.
In between early morning and late afternoon yoga sessions (each session lasted about 3 hours including meditation!) as well as three full meals a day, I managed to squeeze in a 20 km bike tour with the group through the local ethnic minority villages, enjoyed a minority dance performance, did some handicraft shopping and I made some great new Hanoian friends!
The yoga classes were fantastic, led by Marzena who runs the Zenith Yoga studio in Hanoi. We practiced yoga each morning on a bamboo style platform looking out over the rice fields and hillsides and ponds which were vibrant with lotus flowers. We had one very special yoga session inside a huge cave near the lodge. I swear this was the quietest place I have ever been in Vietnam- there was not a peep to be heard as we practiced inside the cave….you could almost hear your breath echo! The cave itself is quite amazing- it used to be an ammunition store during the war, and now, when it isn’t being used as a yoga studio, it is just explored by tourists and cavers, as it has many tunnels and even some cave lakes!
One of my favourite yoga sessions over the weekend was when we practiced partner yoga- using the strength and resistance of another yogini really allows for more bending and twisting potential! All in all, it was a fabulous, relaxing, peaceful and cleansing weekend. I came back to Hanoi feeling healthy and less stressed….although I could feel every muscle in my body ache for days after such an intense daily yoga workout! I am now looking forward to the next retreat, as it was great value for money and an excellent excuse to get out of Hanoi (and to leave work early on a Friday too!). It didn’t take long to get back into the grind of life, but it has helped me to stay motivated to do my own regular yoga practice and I now also have some new girlfriends to hang out with! What more could I possibly ask for?!
Summer has well and truly arrived...and to make up for the mild winter it seems summer has come with a vengeance this year....the past two days have been 38 degrees....someone I know took a thermometer out onto the street and it was 43 degrees! No wonder everyone has taken to "shade hopping" when riding their bikes. Instead of stopping at the white line at red lights, everyone now stops wherever there is even the smallest patch of shade...even if that is 20 metres back from the white line. Totally necessary in this humid heat though!
It's a pity that the pools are not only packed with people, but that the water also feels like a tepid bath. It seems that not even the AC cranked to 18 degrees can cool things down. Houdini my cat is a lazy little furry flopball, he feels so floopy. As we all do! It's making us all troppo...a term I taught my AE5 class today, as it aptly described how a few of them were behaving!
There is a stifling oppressive heat. There are smoke storms outside. There is humidity and sweat and power outages. Ah, Hanoi in summer.
Let me just start this entry with an adendum....attending an Olympics that revels in the big, old Russian Minsk motorcycles, doesn't mean that I like or approve of the dirty, noisy, polluting machines. Worshipping the motorbike was not my purpose for going to Ba Vi for a weekend....my reasons for going along included wanting to spend time with my friends, wanting to get out of Hanoi, and also being a bit curious about what goes on at these mad-capped annual events...and this would probably be my last chance!
Instead of joining the convoy of motorbikes leaving Hanoi on Saturday to arrive at the Ba Vi Resort, close to the national park, we left as a convoy comprising myself, Julianne, Tanya, Lyle, Jane, Fiona and Ian (close friends of mine here). Instead of facing the dusty, hot and dangerous highway, we opted for comfort....a driver to chaperone us in his air-conditioned 14 seater van! I'm so glad we decided to do this. Not only did we get to enjoy a night under a clear, star-filled night, but we got to sleep in on Saturday and relax by the pool for hours before the Minsk hordes arrived!
Once the Minsk's arrived and the Olympics weekend was official, the calm and serenity was overtaken by raucous party-people, lots of beer to add to the sun and pool experience, which was totally fine by me! The afternoon turned into an evening affair...a balmy summer night of dancing and general shenanigans. It was kind of like bringing Hanoi's crowd to another place! Except in Hanoi it is more difficult to find a pool to swim in for a late-night dip.
The "olympics" part of the weekend started on Sunday morning. Being unenthusiastic about that side of things, me and the peeps were slow-going....but we eventually made it up the hill on foot (this was a STEEP hill to walk up, totally exherting of energy!) in time to see the Comrades Challenge. This event involved two friends on one Minsk. The pillion's job was to collect tyre tubes and toss them (while on the back of the Minsk) over the handlebars of another Minsk in the centre of the circle which the bikes rode around. Two heats and a final...pretty funny to watch, as Minsk drivers crashed, pillions used any means necessary to get the rings, and then their attempts to get the rings in the right place...there were crashes and wheelies...and minor injuries...look and sound dangerous? Yeah, it was...and I was happy to be a by-stander...you have to be tough to be a Minsk rider I guess?!
The drinking continued...and then we were driven home by our driver in air-conditioned comfort...not battered nor bruised...so whether I really "experienced" the Minsk Olympics is hard to say....but I had fun, enjoyed everyone's company, felt relaxed getting out of Hanoi and can now see a bit of what the hype has always been about!
It all began a few weeks ago, when on a whim, I decided to apply for a job which I had been sent a job alert for. I was curious to know more about the position, and what the remuneration was like, so that I could start to get an idea of what the lay of the work land outside the Hanoi bubble was like
Well, this all led to me receiving a reply, then organising a preliminary interview, then a job interview, then my referees being called, then my bosses being informed, and then... being offered the job! It all piqued from mild curiosity to genuine excitiment and decision making time in a swift period! This then led to a lot of serious thinking, afterall, this wasn't a decision that I could take lightly. Hanoi has been my home for the last two-and-half years, and leaving here for a new place is a BIG decision.
I'd actually been playing with the idea of moving on from Hanoi when and if a good job opportunity arose for a little while now. Wanting to leave Hanoi is for no one particular reason. I have just had a feeling that the time had come to move on and this was a good time to think about leaving. However, I also told myself that I would never leave my great job, amazing friends and excellent lifestyle here without a good reason. And here was a good one! It seems my semi-conscious thought created enough energy for the univserse to hear and to provide me with the perfect chance.
In the end, I decided to take the job, as it was too great an opportunity to refuse. On 15th August, I will leave Hanoi to start work at a private ESL school in Jakarta, Indonesia! The school teaches IELTS and academic English in branches in Jakarta, Surabaya and Bali. I will be taking on the role of Manager of Academic Programs. This is a much more management oriented position than the one I am currently in (where I teach heaps too), though there are similarities between the two jobs. For a start, my current school and my new one run similar programs. In fact, my new non-teaching role will have me working on the Australian Develpoment Scholarship program, one I currently am involved with teaching on in Vietnam. There will be new skills to learn as well, including being trained as an IELTS examiner and potentially the chance to do some teacher training. Lots of mental stimulation and a much needed break from the classroom!
I'm excited about the new role, and the new skills and experience it will bring me. I'm excited about moving to a new city where there will be new places to explore and new people to meet. I truly believe that this move from Hanoi to Jakarta will reap me numerous benefits, in terms of my career, as well as my overall emotional well-being.
Of course I am apprehensive about some things, which is normal. I am trying not to think about all the things I will miss when I leave. I'm pushing to the back of mind the thought that I will have to say goodbye to so many friends. At least I can take my beloved cat Houdini with me! Overall I am looking forward to leading a new life with a fresh start in a big city where evereything is new to my senses, and where I am sure there are adventures to be held. I'll get to live in a company-sponsored luxury apartment complex with a pool and gym....and there will be new places to explore. The island of Java is amazingly beautiful and there are many places to go and visit on weekends which are only a stones throw away from Jakarta by the island's efficient train line.
I have a million and one things to do in the coming 7 weeks prior to departing. Packing up a houseful of furniture and belongings accumulated over the past years is no mean feat...at least I will get a relocation company to help me. My mind is racing with mental lists of things to see and do and buy before I go....and people I have to spend time with while I can.
I feel extremely positive about this decision, and I am super excited in sharing this news! Just think...now there will be a new place to come and visit me at! And there will be new, fresh blog entries to write!
Holy crap! Today is the 15th of July- ALREADY!! I leave for Jakarta on the 15th August!! That means that this time next month I will be living in a new city! Where are the weeks flying by to?! I'm in the throws of organising the now imminent departure. Organising relocations of my stuff (oh, wow, it feels so grown up!), figuring out what is going and what is staying, checking out accommodation options in Jakarta (oh yeahy baby, can't wait for my own luxury apartment!), catching up with people, and of course working. Work is draining me this term, probably because it is the last, and it's hard to stay focussed with so much other stuff going on. I've been having fun though, and relishing the time with my buddies while I can. I've also been watching a lot of DVDs (specifically, the Entourage box set) with my housemates, and eating some yummy dinners! It only seems like a week ago that I had 7.5 weeks to go before I leave Hanoi....so I have a feeling the next month is going to be a whirlwind...going to embrace it!
In the wake of the latest bombings and deaths in Jakarta, it would be easy for me to feel a whole bunch of negative emotions about my imminent move there. However, the only negative feeling I have is that of anger that such sensless acts of terrorism are still taking place. The death of people, and destruction of property over religion honestly seems so senseless to me. I am not going to allow this latest event to stop me from going and pursuing my career and my desire to live in Indonesia. Doing so would just mean the terrorists win. I don't want to get political now, but just want everyone to know that I am not worried, and neither should you be. I am sure that security will be amped up more than ever and I also doubt that I will be hanging out in any five star hotels! I am adamant that you have to live your life, and not let decisions be controlled by senseless, stupid acts that have no meaning. I have survived living in London, SARS in China, and two-and-a-half-years of driving in Hanoi traffic, and I am sure that I will survive Jakarta. I want my life to be meaningful and fulfilling, and despite what has happened in Jakarta today, I still feel positive about my arrival in a month from now.
From my blog: www.getjealous.com/sim.mal
And so the countdown to departure continues....just 3 weeks left in Hanoi! Starting to get sad about saying goodbye and am feeling the stress levels rising as I think about all that has to be done....finishing off work, organising the removalist, organising Houdini's transport, sorting through stuff, selling other stuff, and of course organising my farewell house party! In between all of that (or the talk of it...and list-writing about it too :-) ) I have been indulging (as is what I do best here in Hanoi!) on more lush spa visits and dining out at some of Hanoi's finer establishments. There's also been a few benders....fun, but draining! Time keeps buzzing by so quickly, and I just want to enjoy the company of friends more than anything. Looking forward to a visit to Cuc Phuong National Park on the weekend when i will get to spend time with some of my closest pals.
What better way to spend one of my last weekends in Vietnam than on a road trip to a beautiful national park with some of my best friends here. Seven of us- myself, Sally, Julianne, Joss, Annetta, Nga and Rob- departed the crazy roads of Hanoi on our motorbikes early on Saturday morning. The road out of Hanoi was as dusty, dirty, hot and noisy as it always is....after a short put-stop on the Ho Chi Minh Highway, we turned off out of the madness and into the relative peace and serenity of Vietnam's countryside roads. This is where it became scenic and much more enjoyable as we reached top speeds of 80km/ph and zoomed past rice fields and limestone mountain landscapes.
After riding for a couple of hours, we had a butt-soothing pit-stop at a little roadside cafe in a small town an hour or so from our destination, where we discovered the delights of Na Da beer and indulged in bread and cheese (brought care of the always-thinking Nga!). Talk about a luxury road-trip!
The road to the Cuc Phuong valley was bumpy, but the countryside landscapes a treat to drive through. The temperatures were high (it was 36 degrees over the weekend!) and it was a relief to finally arrive in the somewhat cooler, green forest that is Cuc Phuong. We arranged our accommodation in a stilt house inside the national park- it ended up taking over 30 minutes drive into the park to reach the house, but it was a beautiful ride through lush greenery. What a delight after the pollution and madness of Hanoi.
We only had time for a wee nap before we head back into the valley so we could attempt to get to the river to watch langurs feeding at dusk. Unfortunately, a storm blew in and we ended up sitting out the storm in a dog meat restaurant on the side of the road. Not the best place to have to wait out the rain and wind, but better than being in the storm I suppose! Plus we got to see Nga pig out on a duck foetus boiled egg, which I found absolutely disgusting yet intriguing!
After returning to the park for dinner, we then went on a night spotting trek in which we were fortunate enough to see a rare slo lorus in the trees- an endangered primate found in this region of Vietnam. After the excitment of seeing it, the spiders, stick insects and frogs were not quite as amazing though still very interesting! After all of that, the wine we enjoyed was well-deserved!
The next morning we had breakfast and then visited the Primate Rescue Centre where we got to see families of langurs and gibbons and ducs playing. Super cool!
After lunch we started the ride back to Hanoi. It slowly got busier and more manic as we got closer to Hanoi until at once, we were back on the HCM Highway, possibly the ugliest, noisiest, dustiest and busiest road I have ever experienced.
It was while riding back on this stretch that Julianne had a scary moment. No, it wasn't an near-accident...more of a brush with nature in fact! While cruising along she suddenly felt something on her hand and looked down to see a MASSIVE centipede on her hand, which had hitchiked on her bike from the park! She pulled over because after she flicked it off it crawled back into the bowels of her bike. Sally and I saw all of this from our bikes (but not the centipede itself). Sally figured it can't have been so big, I figured it wasn't actually back on the bike, but Jules was (of course) was freaked out. So Sally and J swapped bikes....then about 10 minutes later, the centipede re-emerged on the handlebars and it was Sally's turn to pull over. This time we all saw it land on the ground as Sally flicked it off the bike....a random passerby couldn't believe his eyes! Itwas seriously a very big creature- 45 cm long, 3 cm wide, NO exaggeration! What excitement!
After all of that, a beer or three at the bia hoi junction were in order. We fit the part really, and probably looked and smelt worse than most of the backpackers nearby! The trip was so much fun and it was so great to getaway (as always!). I am so pleased I got to do this journey before leaving Hanoi, and that I got to enjoy it with the everyone otherwise now known as the Hanoi Hand Burn 7 (after the burnt hands we all got from riding in the sun). A trip away is never complete without a few nicknames...they came about through a bunch of separate mini-stories from the weekend that probably wouldn't make sense out of context!
Thanks guys for a wonderful trip...I'll never forget you all for being so awesome....hope we can do it again sometime Lightning Head, Wolfteeth, Dopey Devitt, Crotchstick, Wee Willy Winky, and Newt Drongo!
Sim (Proboscus)
www.getjealous.com/sim.mal
I'm now busily crossing things off lists...and one of my lists is of things-to-do-in-Hanoi-that-I-have-always-wanted-to-do-but-not-done-yet...so today I enjoyed a boozy Bloody Mary Breakfast with some mates. What better way to start a Sunday! After a few of these vodka-infused freshly squeezed tomato juices and a belly full of food and coffee, there was no better place to go to than the pool. Chillaxing on the lounges, dipping in the pool, getting inspired by reading my Indonesia Lonely Planet, and generally doing very little. What better way to spend a Sunday afternoon! Then there was a special light show in the sky on the way home. The dusk sky was ablaze with colour that reflected beautifully off West Lake, providing a spectacular show to all who stopped to gaze. What a great way to end a great Sunday!
It was a hot, steamy night in Hanoi. It had been a glorious day of warmth and sunshine and everyone was in great spirits. The kitchen was stocked with beer- 12 crates of Halida to be precise!- and spirits, ice was on-hand (thanks to Mr Hai saving the day!), the house was prepared for the onslaught (thanks Tanya and Mal for helping)...the party starting posse had arrived....there was a big suprise arrival of Sally and Jules, back a day early from their hols to be there (thanks you two tricksters!)...the night began relatively mellow. Then, the Van Ho Ba set up in the living room, and started belting out their tunes and the party really got started! The downstairs heated up and almost reached melting point by the time it was filled with my posse of Hanoi friends....even the neighbours and their kids showed up for a boogie!
As more beer was drunk and more people arrived, the balmy night became sweaty and sticky and time started to fly by in a blur! Before I knew it, the upstairs rooms were filled with people gathered, music was being played upstairs and a drumming circle formed downstairs, the party was in full swing. Then, came the crazy neighbour! I'd warned the whole street that I was having a party, and the fact that some even dropped by I thought meant they were okay with a bit of noise. Granted, the drumming was reverberating down the whole alley...but this man really was crazy!
He stormed (quite literally...) into the house with two police men who tow. The police did nothing but stand there and stare at him then us then back at him. The man shouted that Vietnam is a "sovereign state" and we had to be quiet, he wanted our passports, it was outa control! So we quitened the party, brought the motorbikes inside, sent the police and crazy man on their merry way...and continued the party upstairs with slighlty more subdued tones.
The party continued until all the booze was drunk and the daylight was breaking. There were some nice tunes, funny conversations, some awesome rhymes, and a general good vibe. I didn't want it to end, but there always comes a time....
Thanks to everyone who came along to make the party so much fun and such a memorable way to say farewell to Hanoi, my home for the past 3 years. I will miss my mates terribly when I am away, but at least I am not going too far....
Oh what a manic week in the lead-up to my departure from Hanoi. More than anything I am going to miss my friends, the amazing people that make Hanoi for an expat such a great place. But I have said my farewells til you all come and visit (or we reunite in neutral territory!) and now I have a new city to conquer!My first few days in Jakarta have gone really quickly. They have consisted mainly of sleeping (OMG did I have some sleep to catch up on after the hectic week prior to leaving Hanoi!), unpacking and getting acquainted with my new apartment and the massive complex, getting taxis to some of the malls where I have met for coffee with my new bosses, getting supplies from the supermarket, and reading lots about Indonesian and Jakartan life from some books I bought from one of the bookshops here. Ive kinda got my bearings. I know my new office/school is about 10 minutes away in a taxi .it is just across a footbridge from my apartment and would be about a 30 minute, hot and sweaty walk, not bad really! It is Indonesian Independence Day today so there are lots of events around the place, and there are Indonesian flags and red and white streamers everywhere. At the moment, I can hear the muffled, amplified sounds of a band of some sort echoing from somewhere in my complex. There is also a group of people playing guitar nearby. Wow, such a difference to the sounds of honking and traffic and people em-oi-ing everywhere. The malls here are also very different to Vincom Towers (needless to say really!). Think every fancy name brand you can under one big, glossy, shiny roof in a multi-story and multi-layered complex fully airconditioned- yeah baby! I did venture into a less polished mall which was also very fun for different reasons. It was jam-packed with small stalls selling everything from make up to tacky jewellery, cheap shoes, knock-off handbags, pirate DVDs (I am now the proud owner of the entire series of the Wire!) and a big Carrefour supermarket that is just like a supermarket at home!So far, I miss everyone, and I havent really had anyone to talk to (other than when I met with my new managers) and I havent got internet in my apartment yet. I miss my motorbike and the ease of getting around, although the taxis here are very efficient and quite cheap, and it is nice to not be stuck behind a bus to breathe in the fresh diesel fumes. Im loving the modernity there is available here, and its nice to live on my own for a complete lifestyle change! Its hot but not quite as humid as Hanoi, but I like it. I dont have a maid here, so that will be weird cleaning up after myself :-)I have my first day of work on Tuesday, I am looking forward to it! Oh, and I am also looking forward to being sent on my first business trip next weekend to Bali! I am going down there to meet the crew at the other centre and to represent the Jakarta branch at a function it is the ADS Program end of term picnic, at the Australian Ambassadors house no less. I do think I am rather lucky. So far, so good. Have landed on my feet, but am still on the post-Hanoi, new city high. Stay tuned for more updates!
Here are some pics of my new apartment, chosen by my school for me to stay in for the next month (or longer if I wish). I am staying in the Taman Rasuna Apartment complex, Tower 6 (of 16!!), in Apartment 7-E. Lots to remember when telling taxi drivers! It has security checking cars when they come in, and a nice doorman to greet and help with carrying groceries and calling taxis. The complex has a pool and tennis court and basketball court and a walking/running track. There are quite a few trees and green spaces.
My apartment is quite large. It has two bedrooms, two bathrooms, a kitchen, a dining area, a laundry room, a lounge room, a walk-in wardrobe room (!) and a balcony. It gets sunshine through the windows all day, and there is a nice breeze. The floorboards are wooden and it has been tastefully decorated and furnished. Its also very quiet! Very comfortable for me to stay in, especially as it is located close to work.
I will start to look at other apartments, to see what else is out there to compare, it seems like there are lots of options.
It's true, it really doesn't. My brain is having trouble making that adjustment however, and everytime I want to say something to a local Indonesian, the first words that come into my head after English are Vietnamese...I must push that language to the back of my mind now and make some space for Bahasa (sorry Nga!)! Language is just one of the adjustments I am having to make now that I live in Jakarta. No longer a Hanoian, and now a new Jakartan, I have had to make some big shifts in my lifestyle, nearly all of them in the upward direction I must add! Actually, I kinda feel like I am some sort of VIP!Things here seem to be more constant. The sun rises and sets at the same time (6am/6pm) every day all year round, and it is always hot and sunny! I wake up in the morning and it is QUIET. I can't hear a sound, except if I really listen I might hear whistles being blown by the security guards at the gate that is outside my apartment. My area is actually not that noisy considering it is in the centre of the Golden Triangle area of the city (ie. the Jakarta CBD), it's off a main road, and I am on the 7th floor and I am sure my apartment has double glazing, so it is really very peaceful...and I didn't realise just HOW peaceful life can be until now since I have been away from the constant racket of Hanoi. I sit on my balcony and eat my breakfast and enjoy the blue skies and sunshine (as opposed to the more common than not grey skies and usual drizzle of Hanoi). Then, I get picked up every morning by my very own driver. I could walk to work- it wuold be about a 15 minute stroll, but it takes the same time in an air-conditioned car and it is one of my benefits, so rather than get to work and feel all hot and sweaty I am taking advantage of being offered the ride! It is very much a car culture here- there are not so many motorbikes on the roads, and people use public transport a lot more to get around. I'll be using taxis which are readily available and are inexpensive to get around when I am not relying on my work driver. I do miss my Mio Amore a bit.I walk into my workplace and EVERYONE sings hello with big, warm, friendly smiles. Everyone seems happy in Indonesia. Someone told me there are hundreds of different smiles that Indonesians use for expressing different emotions. I like that. After I arrive at work and fix my coffee, I sit down at my desk in my own office. I'm still learning the ropes, getting to know everyone and the workplace and the courses, but that will all come together with time. Everyone stops for lunch and eats together in the lunch room and talks about stuff unrelated to work. I can't believe I ate lunch at my desk so often in Hanoi, it is NOT good for the soul to do that every day. The days have been going pretty quickly. I have been leaving on time, because I have my driver waiting to take me home! I haven't been at work more than 8 hours all week! How novel.I've been for a couple of free trials at my local fitness centre, a Gold's Gym Elite, and I think I am going to join. For $100 a month, I can get access to all the facilities which include a pool, state of the art equipment, tennis courts, squash courts (not that I play either of those sports...), sauna, steam room, and of course all the classes like Bodypump and pilates and yoga. Not bad value really....AND, everyone in Jakarta seems to be a member of a centre, it's what people do in their free time when they don't go to the malls. I might meet some new people...plus I can see myself lounging by the pool on the weekends, re-creating my Sunday afternoons in Hanoi (but without my friends :-( ...or all those kids :-) ). There is a pool that is part of my apartment complex, but it is not really a lap pool and it is always busy!The other aspect of life here that I am having to adjust to is the amped-up security everywhere! Of course now, with the recent bombings, things have become even more secure, but everywhere you go, into any building, mall, office, you have to walk through a metal detector and have your bag screened and all cars are checked for bombs as they enter a complex or carpark. Some of the security guards have guns, which is kinda intimidating, but at the same time, it makes me feel safe knowing these kind of measures are in place. It's just a part of life here that locals are used to, and I am sure it will become second nature before too long.Overall, my new life seems to be pretty good. I've been put into contact with some people my age who have been living here for a while who I am going to try and meet up with this weekend, and I have arranged for a car and driver to take me around the city on Saturday...at the moment I haven't really been beyond a 10 km radius of my apartment, workplace and nearby malls. I am interested to see what some of the other city suburbs are like.So that's where I am at less than one week into my Jakartan journey!
On Thursday night I went out to meet up with a friend of a friend who I had been put into contact with, and SHE was out with a whole bunch of other friends, and THEY were all out because it was the evening before Ramadan and therefore their last chance to really GO OUT and party for the next month. So it is that tonight marks the beginning of the fasting month for all Muslims. As an aside, did you know that Indonesia has the biggest population of Muslims in the world? A stark contrast to the absolute lack of religion practiced by the majority of Vietnamese!
In any case, the next month is a significant one for millions of Indonesians, who will be practicing the art of self control and discipline and even more spirituality over the course of the next 30 days. During the daylight hours over Ramadan, Muslims are not allowed to eat, drink, smoke, have sexual conduct, and indulge in anything that is in excess or ill-natured. This means that most Indonesians will be stirring in the pre-dawn hours so they can eat and drink and wash and brush their teeth before sun-up. Then for the rest of the day they fast, until sundown when they pray and enjoy a massive feast with friends and family until the next dawn-time calls to prayer when fasting must start again. This state of fasting of course affects how the day-to-day order of things. Fasting Muslims will become tired from waking up so early and will feel lethargic from their fasting and smokers may become more easily agitated.
Non practicing Muslims are supposed to respect those who are fasting by not eating or drinking or smoking in front of those people who are. The average ex-pat in Jakarta may find that their favourite café or restaurant is closed during the daytime, and all cafes and restaurants that do remain open will have curtains drawn across all the windows so as not to tempt Muslims passing by. The government has asked all bars and clubs to close or closer earlier, making for a much quieter Jakarta for the month ahead! I have been told that things will move more slowly in the workplace, and that regular traffic patterns are altered because workers want to get home before 6pm to pray and then feast. Ive also been told that the pre-dawn hours will become quite noisy as drums and firecrackers will be let off to wake everyone up in time before the sun rises. It is certainly an interesting time for me to have just arrived in this city!
The fasting month all culminates with Eid ul-Fitr, when the whole country will be on the move, with everyone returning to their home towns for the countrys biggest national holiday. Thats when I get a week-long break and am heading to Bali! With things being so much quieter in public, I have been told there are more private gatherings among the ex-pat community and people also use it as a time to chill out and relax and spend time at home with family and friends. For me, I guess that means more time spent swimming and doing yoga and spending nights in watching DVDs!
During my recent trip to Bali for work, I took a weekend out for some me-time and relaxing. When I couldn't get on a dive boat for a dive, I opted to go on a "Bali fun boat" for some snorkelling on Lembongan Island about an hour from Bali. This boat was slightly daggy, and included snorkelling, a banana boat ride (where I LITERALLY bumped heads with a very cool American lady who provided company for the rest of the day and night), a delicious bbq, a visit to the island village and free sunburn :-) Ah, it was all worth the $50 really for the entertainment value and for a relaxing day on the sea and in the sun.
While I was away on weekend, it wasn't actually the beauty of Bali that stood out for me. It was actually the Balinese hospitality that has stayed in my mind. I'm not saying that Bali doesn't have beautiful scenery, because it does (though the beaches don't really compare to those in Australia!). However, I believe it is the people who really make Bali the special place that it is. The Balinese seem to show a special kind of tolerance that you don't see in many places. They not only put up with the drunken, Aussie yobs and rude Europeans , but remain friendly and smiling and helpful all the while. There is a gentle-naturedness about Balinese, which I think probably comes partly from the spirituality that openly exists in everyday life, and which exudes calm and peace, and also from the fact they live an island kind of life away from the big city. Nothing seems too difficult and the locals appear to go out of their way to help everyone. I suppose some of this is to do with the tourism dollar being so vital to their survival, but I get the feeling that it is also just the nature of the these island people, and it is a rarity to find in this world today.
In any case, I enjoyed my weekend getaway of snorkelling, sunshine, and dining. I'm looking forward to returning in a few week's time when there is a national holiday in Indonesia, and then I'm going to explore the Gillies and Lombok. I'm sure these more untouched island paradises will bring me a host of other lovely local encounters. I can hope so anyway!
Well, today we did in Jakarta! Buildings were evacuated and health and safety wardens got to enjoy a bit of excitement, after Jakarta felt the tremors from an earthquake 200km away. The town Tasikmalaya where the epicentre of the quake was, recorded a 7.4 magnitude quake on the Richter scale! That is a POWERFUL quake. And it was serious. 32 people have been killed and 1300 homes damaged. All that happened to our office was a minor crack in the wall. This kind of earthly event, while a bringing a bit of excitement to a Wednesday afternoon, does serve to remind me that Indonesia's geological land mass is pretty unstable. I wonder if there will ever be a BIG one in Jakarta, and I fear what the repurcussions of that would be. Today, all that happened was traffic ground to a halt, but it doesn't actually take much for that to occur in Jakarta! Let's hope that there are no further aftershocks from today's quake, and that they are able to clear the debris. I also hope that the death toll does not get any higher.
I’m extremely fortunate to be able to exist during the week within a few hundred metre circumference between my work and my apartment, with my gym, shops etc all within that zone. I don’t really have to deal with the traffic (macet), that can drive some Jakartans to madness, at all in my day-to-day life. If the traffic is really bad on any given afternoon, and I can see that it going to mean an hour-long journey in the back of a car, then I have the option to brave the pedestrian footbridge outside my work ( it is rickety, the handrail wobbles, there are steep stairs with holes and gaps between them, and lots of makeshift street stalls that block the way) and the non-existent footpaths (reminds me of Hanoi) and use my feet to take me home in under 20 minutes, avoiding the traffic altogether. So it comes as a bit of a shock to the system when I go out beyond my comfortable perimeters on the weekend, and venture into other areas of town to meet friends for dinner. As happened to me tonight…I had looked on the map and seen where I was going to, it looked like it would be about a 15-20 minute journey, so I thought half an hour would be PLENTY of time to arrive on-time. But I didn’t account for the traffic. I should have known that at 7:30pm on a Friday night it would mean mayhem on the roads…but living in my mid-week insular bubble made me forget about the macet….and it took an hour to cross town. For a good part of the journey, i experienced my first Jakartan macet total (gridlock) when we were at a standstill in my taxi, with nobody going anywhere. I could SEE the plaza I wanted to go to from across the road, and realised that by the time we drove up to where we could do a u-turn and then crossed another busy road that the taxi ride would be at least another half an hour! So close, but so far! Sometimes in those situations it is easier just to get out and walk.
Here’s a crazy statistic for you. Jakarta has 7,500km of roads, and over 5 million vehicles. If the average vehicle length is 3m, and only 35% of those vehicles are on the road, well, then…there is not enough space for the traffic to go, which is why the gridlock occurs. Apparently by 2012 this statistic will be even worse, and there will literally not be enough space for all the cars to fit into! Ah, it’s part of life here I guess, and just something that has to be factored in (as I have learnt tonight when I was half an hour late for dinner). At least in these modern times, it is possible to use the back-of-the-taxi time productively. I have a feeling my $1.19 i-phone application which can teach me Indonesian phrases and which has vocab flashcards, and my new e-book reader app, are going to be very handy for these night time, weekend macet total situations! I can even practice my new vocab then and there on the taxi driver! No wonder people say it is easy to learn Indonesian, with all those language learning opportunities right there, every day! It’s all about looking at a possible negative with a positive slant I suppose :-)
I’m a very, very new Jakartan still, even after a month here, especially considering most people who I have met have been here for years and years and years. In my quest to attempt to figure out this city of major contrasts and extremes, and to better understand what draws and then keeps people here, I have been voraciously reading any text that I can find which has been written about Jakarta. I’ve mainly been reading magazine articles and newspaper inserts (Oh it is great to have not one but TWO very good English language dailies!) but have also found a few informative books. Although, it’s kind of telling that Lonely Planet and Rough Guide have written city guides on cities like Hanoi, Bangkok, Tokyo, New York….but none on Jakarta. Yet, there IS an informative and humorous Culture Shock guide for Jakarta!
While I am yet to experience any culture shock, and in fact, I have found the transition from Hanoi to here to be rather smooth and easy so far, I have been amazed by some of the facts and figures that I have read about. So I thought I would share! I bet you didn’t know….
* Jakarta has 2.5 million private cars, increasing by 250,000 a month; 250,000 taxis; and 3.5 million motorbikes
* 86.1% of Indonesians identify as being Muslim...and there is a law that means a marriage between two people is only legal between two people of the same religion
* Jakarta is known as the big durian- another blog entry to come on this one, but think about it….
* In 2007 Jakarta was listed as the world's 55th most expensive city to live, but has never been in the top 100 list of cities with the best quality of life
* 10-13 million people live in Jakarta (the figure is different depending on what book it comes from), and nearly everyone is from somewhere else, as there are 17,000 islands in Indonesia's archipeligo and Jakarta as the capital, is their people’s melting pot
* Jakarta is 661.52 square kilometers, making it the sixth largest city in the world according to UNESCO
* the original ethnic group in Jakarta are Betawi, about 3000 Betawi (a minority group now) still live in a neighbourhood in southern Jakarta where they still speak their original language and live a mostly subsistent lifestyle
* Jakarta and the outlying area has at least 240 local dialects, and interestingly, 20% of Indonesians don’t speak Bahasa Indonesian
* 300,000 non-Indonesians reside in Jakarta
* Jakarta has over 90 air-conditioned malls. The biggest is Grand Indonesia with a total floor space of 640,000 square metres. The original is called Sarinah, which sits on just 21,000 square metres
* The oldest market in Jakarta is named Pasar Baru and was established in the 18th century for the Dutch colonists.
* 70% of mall visitors don’t actually buy anything!
* Indonesia is the world’s 4th biggest coffee producer, exporting 437,000 tonnes in 2008 at a value of US$956.86 million while 150,000 tonnes is consumed domestically
* There are over 300 gossip tabloids and TV infotainment shows printed and shown in Jakarta
* Greater Jakarta has 38 golf courses
* The average yearly day and night temperature is 30 degrees and the sun sets at 6pm and rises at 6am (give or take 7-8 minutes) every day all year round
* Jakarta got its first Mcdonalds in 1991
* Jakarta has one of the largest mosques in SE Asia, which can accommodate 10,000 people and 800 vehicles
* Jakarta has 13 free tv channels
* Many cats here have only half tails or no tails through some genetic mix-up…and there are also civets sometimes spotted on the streets!
* 70% of Indonesians smoke
I thrive in big cities. I love their anonymity and their possibilities. I enjoy being in the vast metropolis where there’s always something going on. I am excited by the many opportunities that living in a big city provides, and that it’s impossible to know everything, before things change and evolve. There’s an energy, a vibrancy that abounds in these big man-made places. Looking out at the bright sparkling lights I am mesmerised, they give me a thrill and a buzz! It’s comforting to know there is endlessly something new to see, some new person to meet. Looking down at the urban jungle, I see a place that is restless, but which means I will never feel bored. There’s so much diversity, amongst the adversity, yes big cities are hectic and frantic, but it’s only as manic much as you make it. I’m a big city girl, I never knew it til’ now…
I think it is interesting that every culture seems to have a festival or period of time each year where things wind down and when families and friends come together to take time out and eat, drink and be merry. In the West we have the Christmas/New Year period, in China there is the lunar new year, in Vietnam there is the similar Tet...and in Indonesia there is Idul Fitri, or Lebaran, as it is more widely known as here.
As I have learnt, it is essentially a Muslim holiday, and is a time to celebrate the end of Ramadan, the fasting month. It is when families and friends meet to ask for fogiveness for wrong doings done in the year...and in similarity to Vietnam's Tet, people enjoy snacks and drinks and children receive money. For Jakarta, as Indonesia's melting pot of people who come from all over Java and other parts of the Indonesian archipeligo, this means a mass exodus from the city as everyone leaves to return home to their families. So in the coming days in Jakarta, around 3.5 million people will be leaving, reducing the city's population by a third of its regular size! Apparently it is the best time to be here, as the streets are dead quiet and the usually bustling city seems empty!It is estimated that 16.3 million people in Indonesia will be on the move in this period starting today.
There is even a word in Indonesian to describe this movement from the urban centres- mudik- and public transport is going to be extremely (over)crowded as people head home, and meanwhile everything goes up in price and shops run out of goods.Then, in a week from now when businesses re-open and everyone returns from their rural hometowns, Jakarta's urbanisation problems expand as the population swells to more than it was pre-Lebaran in a wave of annual seasonal migration....those who left the city return to the big smoke with family members in tow, who come to seek their dreams of fortune in the big city.
My first weeks in Jakarta have certainly been interesting ones to observe in terms of learning about some of Indonesia's traditions!
Here is a link to a news story about what happened during this year's Idil Futri exodus- yikes!
http://thejakartaglobe.com/home/more-than-300-indonesians-killed-in-road-accidents-during-idul-fitri-exodus/331273
If Bali is known as the Island of Gods, then surely Gili Trawangang must be Heaven itself. After 5 days on this small island near Lombok, I feel such bliss and contentment that I could die right now and that would be ok….except that I would have to hope to reincarnate to ever enjoy it all again! This divine island truly is everything that a tropical island should be, and is all that I expect heaven to contain.
The idyllic Gili T is small- it can be walked around in under 2.5 hours- but it is bursting with life and character.The idyllic island is surrounded by pristine beaches with pure white sand and crystal clear blue-green water. There are no motorised vehicles (other than boats!) with the main mode of transport being by foot, although bicycles and horse drawn carts are also popular for getting the short distance from one end of the island to the next. The island folk locals were friendy and sweet, providing no hassles, just kindness and smiles. It is teeming with cute little stray cats, so in-bred that their tails don’t exist or are wonky. The stars I saw are the brightest I have seen in a very long time, it was an ethereal moment when I was strolling along and actually looked up and noticed them shining beatifically above me. The water had phosphorescence running through it at night, bringing the celestial to the sea. The diving was spectacular- perfect visibility beyond 20 metres, 26 degree temperatures and marine life that included reef sharks, cuttlefish, octopus, green turtles, hawksbill turtles, scorpion fish, lionfish, a giant tuna, sweet lips as well as tonns of pretty corals! I did 4 dives and all of them were memorable!
I stayed in a really cute Marta’s Bungalow, which was perfect for chilling, with a day bed out the front where a cute little cat would curl up with me while I read. The bungalows also had an ocean water filled pool to sunbake by, although the beach was also good for doing this! The island was sleepy and quiet during the day, but then at sunset people suddenly came out from their guest houses , resorts and various diving adventures, to enjoy the seafood barbeque smorgasbords put on by all the beachside restaurants. The food was unexpectedly divine!
Then as the radiant daylight turned to the warm, balmy night, the island changed pace a little, as devilish people emerged from enjoying the pleasures of the blessedly beautiful day to the slightly more wicked night. The island may be small, but of course it has an Irish pub, which was party central every night. As I sat by the bar and talked to interesting travellers from all over the world, I wondered where everyone had been hiding during the day, to turn the pure and divine island into a slightly sinful and wayward wonderland!
On the last afternoon, clouds began rolling in, but people’s spirits were not dampened by the short rain shower that fell. It definitely had an other-worldly feel as the storm arrived, but it was brief and the sun kept shining the next day. There were island-style Idul Fitri celebrations where children paraded down the main street with candles and torches, and chanting and drumming took place. On my final night I also got to enjoy some Balinese and Lombok dancing which happened at the restaurant where I enjoyed my massive, buffet last supper.
I have returned to Jakarta in a state of bliss which I am sure will not take long to leave me. This island truly has everything that makes me feel happy and whole, and already I can’t wait to escape again and return to my idea of heavenly paradise that is Gili T.
What a spectacular light and sound show I got to view from my 28th floor balcony tonight! From knowhere, it seemed to come. I sat and watched as the clouds rolled slowly in across the skyline. Then flashes of lightning filled the sky with intense, bright blue light. The lightning-filled sky was soon followed by deep rumbles of thunder from afar. Then the lightning flashes turned to intense bolts which were followed by loud thunder claps...the light and sound came closer, the clouds rolled over the skyline faster, the smell of rain filled the air, a breeze fluttered the leaves of the plants and the hair across my face. Then, came the falling raindrops, accompanied by constant flashes of light and bolts of lightning, filling the whole night-sky like it was daylight for seconds at a time. The thunder bellowed, it sounded like the earth's crust was being torn apart and disembowelled, the wind increased in ferocity, the rain dropped with intensity. Then, the clouds blew over, the rain eased off, the light show ended and the regular sounds of the city returned. The Earth's 35 minute tantrum was over, the nightime temperature a few degrees cooler, and the only sign of the storm to remain being the shiny slickness of the roads and droplets of water dripping fom the the plants outside. Calm and still as it ever was. Ho. Hum.
I have more up-beat blog entries in my head to write, but I have been so overwhelmed by the sadness of the earthquake in Sumatra that I am not inclined to write them. I have had to stop watching the news, as the images of the crumbled city and the grief-stricken people are just too much! I've been moved to tears several time. There are images of so many dead bodies, too many for the hospital to even handle. With each one of those human lives lost, I can't help but think of the 10-20 people at least who will be grieving for that loss, while at the same time trying to come to terms with their own loss of homes and possessions. With a death toll of over 1100 confirmed, and 1000s of others still to be found under the rubble, it is such an imense human tragedy. And one that is so uncontrollable. The one thing we humans can not control yet is the force of nature.
People in Padang are used to earthquakes, being located right in the middle of the Ring of Fire, but this one, the Big One that people who live in these tectnonically volatile places fear, has been absolutely devastating. Individuals have lost their entire family, children have been orphaned, there are too many peope with injuries for doctors to deal with, survivors are living in tents- calls for 10,000 tents have been made!- there are limited fresh water supplies....and of course there is the worry about disease breaking out.
I think that this tragedy has affected me as it is in the country where I am living, and that makes it just so real. Yet, despite the sadness and the awfulness of it all, I am brightened by the way that people band together and really get in there to help in whatever way they can in times like this. Governments and aid agencies and disaster management specialists are almost instant in their response, and everyday people are working together to help those who are suffering. Thank god for this saintly-ness.
I don't think I could handle being at the earthquake site, but I plan to donate money once I figure out which agency is the best to give to. I know that as much is being done as possible, and I am trying not to focus on the loss of so many beautiful lives. It has been a crazy period of time for South-East Asia, between the typhoon in the Philipines and Vietnam and the Tsunami in the Samoas, and now the earthquake in Indonensia...it definitely calls for a time of reflection and action in whatever way we can provide it. Once the news agencies have become bored in a week from now, and another news items takes rank, it will be easy to forget about what has happened in Sumatra...but this is going to be an on-going recovery, for a long time into the future, and with so many people affected, it is going to affect Indonesia long after the news stories have stopped.
This is the organisation who I am going to donate to for disaster relief. I recommend anybody who wants to help, even if it is only a small amount, to do the same.
MercyCorps www.mercycorps.org
One of the things that strikes me about people everywhere, is how we all manage to pull it together to survive hardships. In poor countries like Indonesia, daily hardship is a way of life, and many things are a struggle for a lot of people. It is this struggle to eek-out an existence to survive that leads to some very ingenious ways of making money. I always found the methods people used to make or save a Dong in Vietnam quite clever, and the techniques employed by people in Jakarta to rake in a Rupiah are no less ingenious.
Take the umbrella kids for an example. The rainy season has just begun in Jakarta, which means the afternoon skies become dark and grey and monsoon rains starts to pour .around the same time that people want to leave their office and head home. But there is no need to worry about getting wet, because as soon as a sprinkle of rain starts to fall in Jakarta, kids suddenly come from their kampung and appear outside office buildings and bus stops where they wait with a giant umbrella almost the same size as they are. There they wait for customers, passer-bys, who they will help to get from A-B without a drop of water getting on them, by holding up their big umbrella over them. The customer stays dry, the kids get pretty wet, but the kid also makes a couple of thousand rupiah!
Then, there are the traffic jockeys. These people stand by the road-side just before drivers enter the 3-in-1, a road which can only be used if there are 3 passengers in the car. The road jockeys make a few bucks by jumping into peoples cars so that they meet the required 3 passengers rule. They stay in the car while the driver goes through the 3-in-1 zone, and then get dropped off once the driver is in the CBD then the jockey will go back and do it all again .and make about a $1 for each car pool!
The ingenious schemes for making money in Jakarta dont end there. There are dudes who act like very unofficial traffic police at certain busy junctions, waving their arms and shouting out directions in a very crazy looking way with the intention of directing traffic in places where people need to make u-turns .they will help drivers to make the u-turn for some small coin donated by the driver, by stopping the on-coming traffic and allowing a space to make the turn. It is questionable whether or not they help or actually hinder traffic flow, but its a pretty clever way of making a buck.
Of course, there are also buskers. But these buskers dont necessarily have the talent of ones you might see on the street malls in the west. These entertainers are usually street kids or unemployed people who stand at the traffic junctions and "perform" songs to the drivers while they are stuck in traffic, and then collect whatever donations they can get from thei car windows. Their instruments are usually a tambourine or a piece of wood with bottle tops attached. I have seen more talented groups of musicians with a portable drum kit and guitar getting on the local buses where they really do perform to the passengers. Makes an otherwise uncomfortable journey a bit more entertaining!
The traffic jams also lend themselves to the creation of another way to earn a living that of the mobile shop. At every traffic intersection, there is at least one person weaving through the traffic with a cardboard box that is slung around the neck and carried in their front, and in that box is a mini-market that sells everything a frazzled commuter could ever need, from cold water to cigarettes to snacks to gum and newspapers, all of which are sold to the needy who are stuck in gridlocked traffic that is going nowhere fast. Its a very creative money-making scheme though one that appears hot and dangerous to me!
There are also many other jobs that locals take on out of necessity that are perhaps not so obscure, but which fill a needed niche- there are men and women who prepare roadside meals in moveable carts, those who make ice-drinks, or sell fruit and veg, or make and sell snacks, or set up make-shift stalls on pedestrian overpasses to sell mobile phone cases or magazines, or there are those collect recycling to sell which they push on carts through busy roads. It is truly remarkable how hard it is for some people to make a living, and I am grateful every day for being given the opportunities I have had in my life to have a job that is not menial or which requires physical labour. The ingenuity of people to survive truly is applaudable and admirable in my opinion! The thing I love the most about Indonesian ingenuity, is that nearly every time someone performs one of these difficult, tedious, laborious jobs or tasks to make money, it is accompanied by a big, friendly, happy grin! Not only is there a service provided, but it is done with a smile!
It has been a while between posts, as I have been BUSY! This is just a quick one that stems from something I learnt from my Indonesian lessons I have been taking.
One of the things that I have come to love about being in Indonesia, is the kindness, gentless, and open-minded natures of the local people I have encountered. Something that stands out on a daily basis, is the way that most Indonesians seem more than willing to give, share, help and assist, in any way that they can. They are qualities that make living in a foreign country so much easier, and the smiles that go with each act of kindness and helpfulness are an extra bonus!
It therefore comes as no suprise to me that this importatance given to other people, also transverses into the local language. Unlike English, which puts the stress and emphasis on the "I', with this one, small word always needing a capital letter to have relevance, in bahasa Indonesia, it is the word "Anda", meaning "you" which receives the capital. I found this completely remarkable, and it really consolidated my existing views on the people here. When "'you" is given more importance than the "I', linguistically, then of course that transposes into the culture too. No other word in Indonesian is given a big letter (unless it starts a sentence), and the importance is always on the other, the person being spoken to. Amazing, huh?
Indonesia’s national dress is as colourful and as sparkly as the country itself, and there is nobody who wears the traditional costume the kebaya and batik better than the ibu ibu of Indonesia. Go to any wedding, and you will find the ibu ibu, the older more mature women, dressed to the nines in an almost avante garde sequinned outfit, replete with big bouffant and sparkly jewels. Go to a formal occasion (or even an upmarket Jakartan fashion mall!) and look for the older, upper class woman, who looks as done up and dolled up as you can ever imagine, shuffling along poshly. If you have never been to Indonesia, and find what I am talking about a bit peculiar, these self-proclaimed Ibu Ibu Gaya (Glamour Girls) even have their own website- check it out! http://www.strangerinparadise.com/Frequent_Flyer/ff-aug2008/Ibu-Ibu%20Gaya.html
However, the traditional Indonesian garb is not set aside exclusively for the upper class social set. In fact, you are just as likely to see a jamu jamu lady pushing her cart of natural remedies up the road wearing the kebaya and batik as you would ladies at a wedding. Indonesian’s are proud of their national dress and wear it with pride. Just recently it was announced that Fridays should be “Wear Batik Day", and it is amazing how many lovely, fashionable, colourful batik items can be worn by men and women alike in one office! I really do love it! A colourful cotton batik shirt certainly beats a dress shirt and tie anyday!
As for the kebaya, it is the blouse part of the traditional women’s outfit. It is usually made of of cotton, silk, lace, brocade or velvet, with the central opening of the blouse fastened by a central brooch. The blouse is usually semi-transparent and worn over the torso wrap or kemben. The kemben is much like a sarong which requires a helper to literally wrap the wearer and it is held in place with a string (tali), then folded this string at the waist, then held with a belt (sabuk). The outfit can be as elegant or as gaudy as the fabric (and sequins!) allow, but hey, if it is good enough for former president Megawati Sukarnoputri to wear in public forums (in only the finest red fabrics of course) then why shouldn’t it be worn as a status symbol by the elite? And worn with pride by even the everyday Indonesian?
Here you can see me and my fellow ibu ibu emulating the look of the ibu ibu, dressed up in the kebaya and kemben, (yes, those wearing the kemben had to be literally dressed by the helpers on hand!) with the typical hair, makeup, jewellery and accessories that would normally be set aside for a wedding. It’s over the top, slightly ridiculous and a bit scary (but hey, it was Halloween and we had the wedding package!) but also strangely beautiful and an amazing transformation from the normal me.
Nobody can say I am not getting into the Indonesian culture- even on Halloween! I think us Western ibu ibu definitely looked the part on Halloween night, and we represented the different regions of Indonesia too. Lisa had a Balinese style, I was Sumatran and Lesley and Natasa wore the look of a Javanese mother of the bride. Oh, and Kate represents the Senayan Mall region :-) It sure was fun getting dolled up as never before….and I actually think the Ibu Ibu Gaya might have been a bit jealous if they had seen us!
There is actually quite a lot to comment on about Jakarta’s cats. They are ubiquitous, as well as unique. This is because many- but not all- of the kampung kucing you see prowling the streets have wonky tails, or short tails, or non-existent tails. There are all sorts of theories about why Indonesia’s feral cats have such strange tails. Some urban myths recount that the tails are broken when the cats are just kittens, to indicate they are being fed and are not strays; or worse, that they are purposefully broken by whoever first finds the litter to make more room in the afterlife for human souls and to avoid more of the little kittens taking up so much space. The more likely, and less horrible, explanation for the wonky tailed cats is that there is so much in-breeding that a little genetic glitch has made the tails abnormal. Whatever the truth is, it certainly makes them unusual and recognisable!
One explanation for so many cats roaming the streets of Jakarta, is that the prophet Mohammed was a big cat lover. The reason I disbelieve the cruel explanations for the crooked cats tails is due to the fact that the majority of the local Mulsim faithful in Indonesia would not be cruel to an animal, which is seen as the most severe of all crimes in Islam. It is written that Muhammed had a beloved cat Muezza and due to the love Muhammad displayed for Muezza, Muslims are traditionally encouraged to regard cats as lovable and cherished creatures.
Less well know and rarely sighted in Jakarta (but apparently a real phenomenon) are civet cats. With yellow spotted fur and a lengthy tail, civets have a cat-like general appearance, though their muzzle is extended and often pointed. They range in length from about 40 to 70 cm, have extra long tails and weigh from about 1.4 to 4.5 kg. I’m not sure that the type of nocturnal civets roaming Jakarta’s streets and roofs are the same type of civet, but you may have heard of civets for the exotic coffee that is prepared using coffee cherries that have been eaten and partially digested by the Asian Palm Civet, then harvested from its faeces!
You don’t need to be a Muslim to follow the belief that cats should be cherished. Especially when we are talking about the latest arrival in my apartment. My new little kampung kucing, Geli, (which means tickle or amusing in Indonesian) was rescued from the streets by some friends. He was on his death bed, so weak he could barely walk or stand up and weighing just 600 grams. A month of TLC and food and vitamins and he has now doubled in size and quadrupled in strength to become a very energetic and healthy kitten, who of course I just had to adopt! His straight, long tail means he is not too feral, and he is energetic and curious but still a little bit timid. He’s my new companion, who just by watching play makes me feel exhausted! It is not a coincidence that his chosen name Geli is so close in sound to the Indonesian word for “crazy”- Gila! He sure is a crazy but super cute kampung kucing!
Anyone who knows me, knows that I love to see live music. I'm not even that fussy about what it is, I always enjoy the buzz that comes from watching and hearing a live band play and enjoy discovering new bands to love. This weekend I really felt like I made up for lost time for not seeing any live music for a while (the house covers band at Bats doesn't count!). Hanoi's offerings in the music scene were getting better when I left, but I've felt slightly deprived...so I have been amazed at the variety of music offered in Jakarta. Live gigs happen every night of the week here, and can range from the well choreographed covers bands who perform in the five star hotels, to local raggae bands playing in divey bars, to a regular house band in a pub, to high end festivals. There's also a massive electronic music scene here, with gimungous nightclubs providing venues for the masses to dance the weekends away in. There is even so much going on that it warrants a Time Out magazine, an exciting discovery for me when I first got here, as I used to religiously read it in London to keep up with its frenetic music scene.
This weekend in Jakarta was the Playground music festival. I had no idea what to expect from my first Indonesian festival. As someone who has been to some of the world's biggest- Big Day Out, Glastonbury etc- I knew not to have high hopes. I'd also been warned that gigs like this one sometimes fall though when the headliners don't end up coming due to various political problems and corruption issues. However, I remained positive and hopeful, rustled up a posse of festival friends, and expected that this festival was going to go ahead as planned, and I was pleaseantly suprised by the experience.
Set in the Ancol Port area of north Jakarta there were three stages and by later in the nigth/early in the morning, a sizeable crowd of many thousands of people had gathered. It was quite fitting that the festival started at 4pm and finished at 4am- dusk to dawn, and very suited to Jakarta's regular sunrising and sunsetting patterns. There was also no mistaking who the sponsors were, from the absolute saturation marketing of local kretek cigarette brand Suraya Slims, with their branding everywhere you turned your eyes, and they even passed out free packets to everyone on arrival. Heineken and Coca Cola Zero were also present but nowhere near as intensely as the fags.
My highlight was seeing one of my favourite live bands Franz Ferdinand perform a whopping two-hour set. They played all their hits, and managed to get even the tough Jakartan crowd jumping and moving. It felt like 50 degrees in the crowd as I danced around and jumped up and down, and it probably wasn't far from this temperature! Other big name performers were Chicane and Sasha, who depsite their fame and sizeable following, had to deal with the resereved Indonesians.
It was hot and sweaty, everything a summer festival should be, the monsoon rains miraculously didn't happen, people were well behaved, all the beautiful people were out in force to flaunt their fashion statements and it was actually a great setting, especially a stage where there was a 3D disco right on the waterfront.Overall it was well worth the 300,000 Rp ticket price (about USD $30) and it has me excited about exploring more of Jakarat's music scene and well and truly warmed up for Woodfoord at New Year's!
Getting under the skin of the giant fruit they call a durian is a prickly affair. Not only is the hard, spiky exterior one that is tough to get through, but once it is pierced, it can result in one feeling a sensation of either utter repulsion or that of pure enjoyment. To those who hate the stink of the flesh of the durian, the smell is so off-putting that they don't want to get close to it, let alone put it into their mouth. To those who detest the stench, it is likened to spew, gym lockers or skunk spray. It's smell alone is formidable for those to whom the durian does not appeal, without mention of the texture which also is off-putting to dislikers.
To those who love the durian, they think the fruit is one that is fragrant, and the pulp is likened to to the smoothness of cream, and lovers of the big fruit believe that it has a smell and taste of rich custard with almonds as its flavour. To those who enjoy indulging in this fruit, the pulp is rich, glutinous, smooth, a pure delicacy. To durian lovers, the experience of eating durian is unsurpassed by any other fruit, and they crave it and love it.
It's this very analogy of the durian that is also used to describe Jakarta, fondly known as The Big Durian. People either love this city, or they hate it. For those who love it, they devour all that it can offer and find its offerings difficult to leave behind, they always want more and will return to what is often home away from home. For many local Indonesians, most of whom come from other parts of Indonesia, they find Jakarta a place of fantastical wealth and boundless oportunity, where all their dreams may come true. For expats, some choose to live here while others are coerced for their jobs, and for foreigners it can be a place to either embrace or flee from. For people who don't like Jakarta, it is a big, smelly, dirty, hectic city with little to enjoy, where every day is complicated and difficult and too much of a challenge to really enjoy.
For me, I've just completed my third month here, and whilst I detest the durian fruit, I'm a lover ofthe Big Durian. I'm still enthusiastic about this city. Sure, it's a crazy place, but one that provides me with many opportunities, a place to meet people from all walks of life, to learn about an interesting new culture, to be as invisible or as much of a someone as I choose to be, and where I feel free to be that person, where I can find all the things I love to see and do, where it's possible to meet great, interesting and intellgent people who are doing great things, where the locals are poor but always wear a smile, where the sounds of mosques fill the air at dusk, a place where the suns sets and rises like clockwork the same time every day, where the temperature does not change, where I do not feel stifled, but feel nourished and stimulated by all that is around me and where I feel that I can live a good life.
Sure, it has a ridiculous traffic problem and high levels of pollution. Yes, it is hot and it is sprawling and vast, but for me those are part of what make it the city that it is. I also feel that a lot of those issues are balanced out by the good stuff and are what provide Jakarta with a special kind of charm. After living in Hanoi for almost 3 years, Jakarta provides a welcome change, and my lifestyle here is not dissimilar but somewhat quieter, more peaceful, less stressful and I feel a lot more centred and grounded and calmer, would you believe!
The Big Durian, it's a city you either love or you hate...or you love to hate or hate to love! It may not be The Big Apple, but I wouldn't have it any other way! I always prefer places that are a bit different, more unique, more challenging to really understand and get to know. I agree that The Big Durian is an aquired taste, but it is exotic and different in the way it shows its charms and nature, and it is certainly a place of contrasts on every level.
Jakarta just got even better for me with the discovery of Pulau Macan (Tiger Island) on the weekend. I have had my wonderful friends Sally and Tanya visiting from Hanoi, which means I have been granted the perfect excuse to play host, and to wine and dine my way around Jakarta with them, but to also explore slightly further afield. Having just a weekend to go away, I wanted to stay close to Jakarta but wanted to go somewhere chilled out too- that wasn't Bali! I thought it would be great fun to explore the Thousand Islands chain of islands (really only about 300 islands altogether) which are just north of Jakarta's Ancol port area. Having heard mixed reports about different islands, I am now forever grateful for the recommendation from a trustowrthy friend about Tiger Island, as this little pointer steered us directly to a little part of paradise.
Pulau Macan is a very small little island- you can walk around it in 10 minutes at a dawdle!- set up as an eco resort. Not only is it a beautiful island, but it is so easy and accessible from Jakarta. It takes a half hour-40 mins taxi ride from my apartment to get to Ancol on a Saturday morning, so if leaving at 7:00am from my apartment, it's possible to be on a fast boat by 7:45am and 88 minutes after that, walking down the jetty to the island and complete serenity.
With accommodation for just 30 people, the island is soooo chilled out. Hammocks are strategically strung between trees, deck chairs are conveniently placed on a sundeck and the water's edge is ever so inviting and never more than a metre away! The whole vibe on this small little island is CHILL! The sounds of the island are that of the sea and birds in the trees. My idea of absolute bliss! The acommodation is simple but comfortable, and the whole island for me oozes romance!
During our stay, we got to indulge in delicious vegetarian, organic, wholesome food, Tanya and I went for a dive (rainy season=bad viz unfortunately), we all went for dips in the sea between chapters in our novels, and there was an asbolutely stunning sunset which we were told was one of the best all year. And there were capirhinias served just as we sat down to enjoy the colours fill the sky as the sun set over Java. Life doesn't get better!
Discovering this little paradise so close to home, and knowing its ease of access which is perfect for a weekend one-nighter, makes me very happy as I can now plan my little weekend escapes when the pace in Jakarta becomes too much. The whole concept of the island and the island village community also appeals to me- eco friendly, open-minded professional people who like to relax and enjoy the beach on weekends....sound like me much?!
Check out the website and my pics to see where you will find me on my weekends from now on...www.pulaumacan.com..
This morning when I awoke, I could hear continuous, mournful sounds of chanting from the local mosque, reminding me that it is the time of Idhul Adha. I must say that Idhul Adha, which falls on the tenth day of Zulhijjah, the 12th month of the Islamic calendar, is probably my least favourite of the Islamic holidays I have experienced in the last few months in Indonesia. It really doesn't sit well with my vegetarian sensibilities. In the days prior to Idul Adha, most Muslim families of sufficient means purchase livestock at their neighborhood mosque or at tethering stalls on the side of the road. Then, on Idhul Adha, it is the day that marks when Muslims around the world sacrifice the animals, to commemorate the willingness of the Prophet Ibrahim to surrender his son, Ismael, to God. The story goes that the prophet dreamed he had killed his son. Believing it was a command from God, Ismael asked his father to carry out his dream. Just as Ismael lay down to be killed, God told Ibrahim not to do so and to sacrifice an animal instead. Hmmmmm. I am not going to criticise an age-old religious tradition, but my 16 years of being a vegetarian find this one a difficult one to accept.
It is common for Muslims to sacrifice a goat, or a cow. A story in the paper today about one local butcher reported that he alone slaughters no less than eight cows and 40 goats on Idul Adha. Over a space of three hours, this butcher will work hard to complete the slaughters. He was reported as saying:“There are two important things when slaughtering an animal for Idul Adha. First, we direct the head of the beast toward the qibla [the direction of the Kaaba, the sacred building in Mecca, to which Muslims turn for prayer]. Second, we have to say ‘Bismillahi Allahu akbar’ [‘In the name of Allah, Allah is great’]. These two things are compulsory.” His main duty as a butcher is to slaughter the animals, meanwhile the other tasks, such as skinning and cutting the meat, are given to others to do. Gross.
The price to buy a goat to sacrifice is about Rp 800,000 ($80 USD) for goats weighing 15 kilograms and Rp 2.5 million ($250 USD) for those between 50 and 60 kilograms. At least the meat is not wasted after the animal is slaughtered in the sacrifice. Before Idul Adha, the committee at a local mosque registers the names of poor families in the neighborhood and distributes coupons so that they can receive the meat of the slaughtered animals. On the night of Idul Adha, many people use the meat to make holiday dishes, such as sate kambing (skewers of meat with peanut sauce) and goat’s meat and bone soup. Certainly not my idea of tasty!
In this age of the technology, Muslims in Indonesia now have another option to actually going in person to a cattle market, choosing the animal to slaughter, taking it to the butcher and then distributing it to the poor. There are now halal-livestock sellers which operate online to simplify the whole process, by arranging for the animals to be delivered to the purchaser's home or slaughtered in their name through a simple Internet transaction.
With or without the use of technology, I don't think this holiday will ever go down as one of my favourites. While the idea of feeding the needy is one that I do like, it is quite difficult for me to come to terms with the animal slaughter, which seems kind of needless to me. Seeing the cattle being rounded up and tethered in preparation for the slaughter is sad enough for me, and so long as I don't have to actually see the sacrifice I think I will cope (just!) with this not-so-pretty holiday.
Jakarta isn't exactly teeming with tourist attractions or interesting things to see or do for visitors. In fact, most tourists just fly through Jakarta on their way to other parts of Indonesia when they are on holidays. So when I had my friends Sally and Tanya visiting recently, my "tour" of Jakarta ended up evolving more around wining and dining in the fancy restaurants and exploring the many malls to go shopping. However, we did manage one cultural activity (though it still involved food!) when we visited the historical old town of Jakarta, also known as Old Batavia.
This small area in north Jakarta was once the central area of commerce for Indonesia in the 16th century due to its strategic location and fertile resources. Now, it is hard to imagine this sleepy little area as a bustling hub of trade , and despite being considered a heritage site, most of the old historical buildings seem to be left to decay. The roads, the canals, the buildings are all sadly negelcted, as though the legacy of Dutch colonialism would rather be best forgotten.
In the centre of the old town, overlooking Fatahillah Square, and the old City Hall, is the famous Cafe Batavia, which features antique furtniture and a unique old-time decor which includes an extensive picture collection. Even the menus are presented on actual pictures from the walls! Of course we had to visit and try some of the delicious food from the menu. The whole place, from the saloon style lounge area with carpets to the fancy furniture, and portraits of famous actors who had once visited the cafe in the past, meant it did have the feel of taking a step back in time.
Wandering around Kota after our delicious feast at the Cafe, it was a little sad to see the neglect of the area. The decrepit buildings were quite photogenic though, and we actually did stumble across several wedding photo shoots and teenagers using the buildings as background to their photos shoots. The old town square is about the only place I have seen people ride bicycles in Jakarta, and it is funny that this is a novelyty activity for people to do when they visit.
Along the old town streets couples strolled and ate ice-cream, children cycled the colourful hired bikes, teenagers had their fortunes read, groups of men mingled and played chess and snacked on Indonesian street food bought from carts, and foreign tourists took snaps of the scenes around them which did seem very traditional, like a living museum of the way things used to be before Jakarta was one big shopping mall.
While it is a shame this historical area is being left to ruin, it is also interesting see that everything is in the same condition as it was hundreds of years ago, and serves as a reminder of how things used to be and where this big new city of Jakarta began its evolution into the metropilis that it is now. It is also interesting that in the news this past week, there has been talk of moving the political centre of Indonesia away from Jakarta, to try and stop the overcrowding and further expansion of a city that is bulging at the seams. The big question is where the new capital would be located, a controversial topic for sure. Jakarta certianly is a constantly changing and growing city, as it always has been through time.
It would be remiss of me to not do an entry about my first Indonesian Christmas. Even though I won't be here for the actual Christmas day, I have had opportunity to get involved in some of the festive season spirit, and to get an idea of what Christmas means in Jakarta. Even though there is a majority Muslim population in Indonesia, there is still a significant Christian population also, so unlike places like Vietnam and China where I have spent previous practically non-existent Christmas times, there is some element of the Christmas spirit followed here. There are whole floors in the big department stores dedicated to selling trees and decorations, much like at home, and the big 5 star hotels are fully decked out with huge, beautifully adorned trees, pointsianna plants and sparkly decorations...and at the swanky Four Seasons (where I got to go to enjoy a drink for a friend's birthday!) there is the most gimungous chocolate bell I have ever seen!! Santa is in some of the malls, posing for pictures with kids on their laps, and heaps of the shops have sales...so it really doesn't feel that much different from a typical Australian Christmas- including the heat, but maybe with a little bit less of the in-your-face consumerism and chaotic elements.
Friends from the Americas celebrated in traditional style at a party on the weekend which incldued egg nog, the typical Christmas feast spread of food, flashing santa lights and tinsel, spray-on snowflake window decorations and of course- Christmas carols! I always find it funny to live in a tropical climate, and to sing about snowflakes and sleighbells and other totally distant concepts at this time of year, and I've been remembering the Aussie versions of these European and American songs which I will no doubt hear when I go home in a few days from now.
It's nice to be living in a country that actually understands the Christmas concept- in Vietnam I recall that Christmas was more a Western novelty to embrace for its Western element more than for what the holiday really means. My summise is that Christmas is pretty much inescapable these days, and this year I am happy to embrace it at home with family and friends...although everyone's presents this year will have a distinctly Indonesian feel, as I'll be bringing gifts from my new home-away-from-home back to Australia with me to share with everyone. Sharing and acceptance of beliefs and cultures- one of the best gifts that anyone can give another person, I think!
My recent two week stint back in Australia has really made me think about what my actual definition of "home" is. There is that expression: "Home is where the heart is", but I think there has to be more to it than that...or maybe if, like me, your heart is in many places, then there are many "homes" to match!
I kept saying to people when they asked me what I was doing for Christmas: "Oh, I'm gong home- to Australia". And to me, that IS my "home", where I could see my family, and some of my oldest friends (although with several, though we met in Australia, they too are not based there...I would be seeing them when they also visited "home") and is the place where other close friends still live. It is the place of the familiar, the easy comfort zone, where I understand things, and a sense of normality exists. Though, once I was in this place called "home", while it was familiar, there was a lingering sense there of the unfamiliar, something which I am sure is due to being away for so long, but which made me feel slightly uneasy and not so home-like.
But if Australia, and Brisbane specifically, is "home", why did I say to people: "Oh, I'm going home, to Jakarta, in a few hours"? In Jakarta there aren't old family members or old friends. But, there is my job, which I enjoy, and there are new friends, who I really like, and there is my apartment, where I live, with my cats (yes, there are now two!), and with all my STUFF! So going by this train of thoughts, maybe "home" is where the things that make me "me" are kept and found.
So, if this is the case, why did I feel homesick for the very first time when I first arrived back to my Jakartan home? I started thinking about Hanoi, and my old crew there, and the life I left behind, and I felt a bit disjointed, because Hanoi was a long way away, and there wasn't a lot left there, other than my old life memories, which of course meants my old mates and a few bars which I missed having around drink at. I even doubted that things would feel the same if I went back (though I doubted it would be too much different on the outside if I did return!). So maybe our memories are also our "home" in our hearts?
Therefore, is it a coincidence that some old friends, who were like my family at the time, have contacted me in the past week? People I have not seen, nor spoken to in a long time, but people who I will never forget after spending some crazy, intimate, and unforgettable times together when we all lived in England? These people are now all based in different places aroud the globe, but we all remember the times from 131 Nether Street in London, the one place we all called "home" for a special part of our lives at that time a decade ago. We were like a displaced family, and I think we can still count on each other as though we were, and could show up at each other's doorsteps at any time.
Does this entry bring me any closer to a definition of "home"? Is is: a place where there are old friends and family to feel comfortable around, where things seem easy and familiar, where there are memories, and there is stuff that defines us, and things/people/creatures to come back to, where there is an income to be earnt, in a place that is enjoyable, and where memories are made and laid and found?
If this is the case, maybe we have many homes, in different places, and pieces of our hearts are left behind in each, to always remind us and draw us back to the place we called home for a particular time. I think that for me, as somoene who has been living as an expat on and off for a decade, I do have many homes, and I feel homesick for different places experienced with different people in some life changing moments at different times when I learnt new things that made me who I am. I believe, that as humans, it is out tendancy to make a home in the place that surrounds us at any given time, and we always remember those places (no matter how long we are there for and what we learn and who we meet), and we keep them close, to come back (or home) to again, be it physically, mentally, or emotionally.
What happens when you throw two crazy Bosnians, a wide eyed American, and me together for a weekend away? After last weekend, I can safely say that it will invariaby be hectic! It all began at the airport. I've never been so close to missing a flight before (save the time in Durban airport when Shawn led me astray with tequila shots...and the time in London when I drank too many beers at Heathrow's pub wih Emma and Jacinta and Shawn again...but they are other stories). This time on Friday night really was the closest....and there wasn't even alcohol involved! Literally 10 minutes before the flight from Jakarta to Jogjakarta was scheduled to depart, my friend Natasa ran into the terminal with her friend Maja (who was holidaying in Indonesia) waving our manual tickets in the air and running to the check-in desk. It really was cutting it sooo fine, but miraculously, we were let on board the flight. In the end, there was even time to grab Krispy Creme donuts in the terminal before we got onto the flight- gotta love well-travelled Bosnians as travel buddies! And Indonesian lax-ness at airports!
We gossiped our whole hour long flight to Jogja and then continued our nattering the whole way in the taxi ride to the Manahora Resort about an hour from Jogjakarta's town centre. The poor, ancient driver who had to listen to us yabbering away ! It was a late check-in and we were exhausted...so we all crashed early... and then arose even earlier at 4:30am! The reason for such an early wake-up was to walk up to the ancient temple of Borobudur in time for sunrise. It nearly killed me to rise so early on a Saturday morning, but with Maja's encouragement her and I managed to make it up steep steps to the vantage point of the ancient Buddhist monument with plenty of time to enjoy the serene moment and to watch the sun rise.
It truly was spectacular and really worth the early start. As darkness slowly unfolded, before our eyes was revealed the mountainous craters of 3 massive volcanoes. There was a slight cloud cover, and an eerie mist shrouding the area below us. It was silent, except for the sounds of morning bird making their morning calls, and there was just a small group of about 15 people watching as the sun slowly emerged in the cool morning air. As the sun rose higher over the horizon, the clouds changed from white to burnt irridescent orange in colour and it was quite the spectacle when the sun shone golden onto the face of the Buddha within the stupa at the temple's entrance.
As we left the temple about 7am after the sun had risen high, and with the heat starting to intensify, and tour groups starting to arrive, I realised it was worth it to wake up early. However, I didn't avoid the heat and crowds altogether. Natasa had slept through the sunrise and Rosita just arrived that morning, and they both wanted to see the view....so up to Boroburdur we all went again, this time in the heat of the day with hundreds of school kids at every turn!
Feeling slightly frazzled, hot and bothered, and annoyed by the souvenir touts, we did what all good travellers do....drank a beer in the shade of the resort! After we'd chilled out and relaxed, we left for the town of Jogjakarta. Somehow we ended up at a spa for hours getting manicures and pedicures and reflexology, and then we ended up at dinner in the main street Malioboro. Here we ordered way too much food because we were starving...one of the dishes- gudeg- was a traditional Jogjakarta dish made from jack fruit, kecap manis, mushrooms and a spiced coconut sauce- different but quite delicious.
We took a stroll down the main street where there was stall afteer stall of batik being sold, along with kitsch souvenirs and other tourist nick-knacks....and in keeping with that theme, we took a horse drawn carriage back to our hotel. I swear we got on the slowest cart with the oldest horse in Jogja!
The next day was hot, we got frustrated by the lack of taxis and constantly being ripped of by becak (pedicab) rides, and by our overall lack of coordination. In the end we did make it to Kraton, the walled city within a city where the sultan of Java resides. It had a quaint village-like feel, a bird market (which was shocking to see) and the remains of the old sultan's Water Palace where his harem of 17 women resided back in the day. I could just imagine the women lounging by the pools awaiting the sultan to beckon them to his giant bed- which was on show and proved to be huge!
The day ended with a quick shopping spree at the silver village- I was actually very restrained- and beer and dinner at the Bintang Cafe where we met up with some other Jakartan friends Kate and Vaughan.
Phew! The crazy weekend didn't end there though. We actually made it in plenty of time to be at the airport and had then had a 1.5 hour delayed flight....which then meant that Maja's connection to Seoul in Jakarta was really cutting it fine...to the point that there was yet another hectic run to check in gates and people pulling strings to get her on that all-important flight! It all worked out- the weekend ended the same way it started...and I'll never forget the Korean Air workers all waving our party off, with oleh oleh (Indonesian snacks) hanging from their mouths like cigars, country and westeren style! All that was needed was that tune- da da daaaaa, da da daaaaa.
Not exactly the most relaxing weekend. away....and I do feel like I missed some of the charm in Jogja and feel like I need to go back...but it was all still a lot of fun!
Another year and another birthday, and I have been finding it hard to believe that a whole year has passed since the last one. This most recent birthday also signifies a year since my first trip to Indonesia for my birthday in Bali....and at that time I had no idea I'd be returning half a year later to live in this amazing archipelego! While this year wouldn't see me return to Bali at bithday time, it still saw me in Indonesia, this time making another return to a more local Jakarta island that I love to get away to!
In my travels there have been many places I have gone to which I have thought I'd love to return to one day. Usually, time or money or distance or circumstance has made it difficult to revisit beautiful cities and to relive amazing experiences in foreign lands. For a few places, it has been possible to return, and it's interesting that each journey is not relived in the same way, bringing a different experience depending on who I am with or the weather or the amount of money I've had to spend, making no two journeys ever the same, even if the destination is.
This certainly is true for the little island getaway that I have now returned to several times in the past six months, each time with different people and staying in different accommodations, but each time has been memorable and as fun as the next visit. And so it is that I returned to what's become home away from home (away from home), for my birthday. While not a completely full circle it comes pretty close to it (that would have required a trip to Bali, with Sally...incidentally, we will be reunited in Penang in two weeks time for the same Tet holiday, but that is another story!).
My birthday weekend really was fabulous. I am now at the point in which I love Pulau Macan in the Thousand Islands so much that I am becoming cautious about who I promote it to, even though all I want to do is rave! As a person who keeps returning on weekends once a month, I am considered an island resident, and as is the case with residents of beautiful places evereywhere, we like the character of the place we love to stay the same! I want to be able to keep returning and to have special amazing experiences every time and I'm afarid it will become inundated with backpackers or people who will change the whole island's character.
In any case, on this most recent visit, I went with some new friends from Jakarta, and together we lazed and sunbaked, gossiped and snorkelled in the crystal clear water, played board games, ate delicious organic food (when the university student vultures also staying didn't get to it first!), ate b'day cake and drank b'day bubbles, enjoyed lovely company, relaxed and read books and basically had just the kind of b'day weekend I could have ever wanted! Now I can't wait to return and do it all again with the same friends or next round of visitors, to have a new experience in the same place. But for now, it's back to work and reality- until next time!
As an avid music lover and festival go-er, in my years of travel I have made the effort to get myself to some of the biggest festivals all over the world. I am fortunate to be able to say that I have attended some massive festivals which include my favourite regular Woodford Folk Festival in Australia, the artsy Burning Man Festival in Nevada, the Glastonbury Festival in the UK, along with the big Aussie festivals like Big Day Out and Splendour in the Grass and the Adelaide Fringe Festival. My list also includes less well-known gigs such as Playground Festival recently in Jakarta and, ahem, the Hanoi Music festival (ok, it was not exactly rateable, but it was still fun!). After last weekend in Bangkok, I can now add the Big Mountain Music Festival at Bonanza Farm in Khao Yai, Thailand! Not well know internationally, it was hugely popular in Thailand, with approximately 35,000 people in attendance, the majority of them all hip and happening young Thais. It was one of the most well organised festivals I have been to, the organisers had thought of everything, and even though I knew none of the bands, and couldn't undrstand any of the songs, I had an absolute ball, dancing and singing and partying along with all the fans.
This was helped along by the great company. Our crew consisted of my good friend Abs who I met in Hanoi but who now lives in Bangkok, and who instigated the festival trip. Shawn, my very dear South African friend visiting Bangkok on holidays, and who I hadn't seen in almost ten years since my days in London. And a new friend Nicole, who had just met Shawn at the airport a few days earlier and who came along for the ride! We also met up with some of Abs' cool Thai friends who added to our little crew to make for a really enjoyable posse of people to hang with.
The festival itself ran from dusk on Friday to dawn on Sunday, though we only managed to make it on the Saturday afternoon, right as the sun was setting over the beautiful mountains in the countryside 2.5 hours from Bangkok. Our first mission upon arrival (after getting ourselves supplied with a pitcher of beer) was to find our tent which had been pre-booked online. Much to our dismay and confusion, we found ourselves in a bit of a lost in translation moment, and instead of a tent, we merely had a 3x3 plot of land on which to pitch a tent (if we had even had one!). In the end, we were rescued by a helpful indy-loving Thai boy who saved us from having to sleep with no tent and bedding on a 3x3 plot of land in the tent city...and in he sold us his two tents at a bargain basement price! Way to go!
With real estate wrangled and sleeping arrangements sorted, we were free to explore the festival and to play! It was huge! There were several massive stages, each for a different genre of music. All the bands were Thai, but, lyrics aside, music being a pretty international language, the feeling in the music could still be understood and the atmosphere was as electric as though we knew exactly what we were listening to. Even to the point of being predicatble, Nicole and myself interpreted what we imagined to be the lyrics to one popular tune, and I swear we were not far off what was actually being sung! Some of the bands were obviously huge in Thailand, drawing massive crowds of fans. The highlight had to be a band with the worst name in the world- Body Slam- who played loud prog-rock and included fireworks as one of their song's crescendos! Enjoyable also was some of the ska and reggae music, and we were delighted when we realised the drummer in one of the popular bands had actually been playing right next to us in the bar we had been dancing at the night before!
There was plenty of Tiger beer- purchased in easily portable mini eskie coolers by the dozen, and there was even a China Town food area with stalls selling every kind of Thai food imaginable on offer. The most interesting stage was one that looked like a UFO flying in the sky- literally- it was suspended by a crane-like contraption and along with the lights it appeared to be a real flying UFO....that played Indie music! Other awesome light installations included a giant cow that guarded over the pop, reggae and ska stage, whose eyes were constantly changing shapes depending on the vibe and he even blew smoke from his nose! The Thais really know how to have fun, and they rocked out and danced out at the dance arena until dawn.
They are also early risers- by the time we emerged from our sauna-like tents at 9am, we were about the only tents (and people) remaining. Thank goodness for the ice-cream seller (I love how there always seems to be a guy pushing an ice cream cart in Asia) who rode past with his familiar annoying melody playing as we were packing up the tents to go back to Bangkok. No sooner had we licked the last drip of ice-cream from our sticks, and along came a shuttle train that picked up passengers, including us, and took us the few kms back to the entrance gate, where a lovely, massive, AC coach with a very pink interior coach awaited to drive us back to the big smoke. It was all too easy!
I love sharing festival experiences with people, they are such great memories, and experiencing a random Asian festival with the locals of another land is also very enriching. I also love the fact that I live in Asia, and you just never know what other festivals await....I heard an add for the Java Jazz festival today on the radio...might have to just check that one out when it takes place in Jakarta in a few week's time! It would be remiss of me not to, right?
My most recent adventure outside of Jakarta started in the Kualur Lumpur LCCT airport, a place I have spent many hours over the past few years waiting for connecting flights to and from the array of places that Air Asia services. This time, however, it was different to other times I have left the terminal and stepped out into the steamy Malaysian air. On this occasion, as I shuffled out of the baggage collection area and looked around me, things seemed very familiar, even though the revamped terminal itself had many new restaurants and shops. It took me a moment to realise what it was that seemed so normal- I could understand the signs and the billboards and the local people...and it suddenly occurred to me that Bahasa Indonesian and Bahasa Malay are almost identical languages. It was kind of surreal to be in a "another" country, but for the normal sensory overload of sights, sounds and language differences to be somewhat dulled. I also realised that the last 6 months of Bahasa Indonesian lessons twice a week has taught me a thing or two, and it all suddenly felt even more useful. The language similarity also made things a lot easier, if not a bit less interesting, as I embarked on the bus trip into the Sentral, near to where the hostel myself, Sally and Julianne were booked into. Knowing some of the language was handy when I couldn't for the life of me figure out the difference between the lRC, the LCC, the monorail and the light train, which are all the various different transport routes people can take from Sentral to other various parts of KL. I simply asked directions to a local, understood the response, and eventually found my way to the hostel where Jules (and Janosche) were waiting my arrival. Too easy!
Yey for reunions after 6 months, and all the gossip to catch up on and stories to re-tell. Yey for being in a new, neutral city to explore together while we talked! Chinese New Year, which was being celebrated on this very night, brought a particular vibe to the city, especially China Town where we were staying. After we found ourselves some infamous Malaysian street food, we became momentarily stranded under the awnings (which thankfully were there) as a sudden torrential downpour of monsoonal rain bucketed down for about 15 minutes- a pretty amazing storm with so much rain, I couldn't even imagine where all the water was going to go! After the rain subsided and then completely cleared as though there had never been any rain, we wandered down the red-lanterned mall area, among the markets selling all the usual knock-off handbags and trinkets. Locals were also setting off fireworks and crackers, bringing an extra buzz of energy (and noise!) to the alfresco tourist restaurants where travellers from everywhere were trying to peacefully dine on local cuisine and enjoy a drink of Skol or Tiger Beer, only to have their conversation interrupted by a sudden burst of firecrackers being let off meters away in the street. To add to the noise and overall buzz in the mall as we drank our beers, were local buskers playing Beatles tunes- it really was like a big party on this night!
When Sally joined our party a few hours later, the new year celebrations were in full swing, with the firecrackers now being let off at continuous intervals and boxes of fireworks exploding amidst pedestrians, motorcycles, cars and other innocent bystanders. It was all slightly scary and extremely loud, but also exciting and impossible not to become engaged in the energy of festivity. The celebrations also meant bars stayed open til late as the lunar new year partying continued into the wee hours.
It also seemed like the wee hours when we had to arise the next day to catch our bus into Penang, though it was difficult to tell what time it was at all in our windowless hostel room, which took me back to the weeks spent in a similar room in Hanoi years ago. It was sightly frustrating to be at the bus station on-time, after a speedy Indian food court breakfast, and to then have to wait for ages for our coach to leave. Eventually though, we got on the open road, zooming past the many palm oil plantations and along highways passing by towns that all looked the same as we hurtled towards Penang in the bus being driven by the grumpiest kamikaze driver ever. I was grateful for the 30 minute (or was it meant to be 20 minute?) stop at a little roadside place where I could finally ingest some caffeine- which was almost like drinking out of an IV drip when it was served to me in a convenient takeaway plastic bag. That got me through the five hour journey perfectly, though we were not exactly calm when we arrived at the terminus and had to bargain in the almost 40-degree heat for the best way to Batu Ferringhi Beach where us four hungry, weary travellers were staying.
It was a relief to check into the hotel- Sally and I at the Bayview Resort a few kms away from Jules and Janoche's hostel. By the time we all regrouped at the beachside Sunset Bar for sunset drinks we were starving, though the beer did sate the appetite while we enjoyed a beautiful sunset over the ocean and watched the water sport adventurers para- sailing, jetskiiing, swimming, and sailing as well as observing beach goers riding poor tired ponies up and down the beach. The Batu Ferringhi beach was not the idyllic, white sand, clear blue water kind, but more the oceanic, water activity kind....not what I had expected.
By the time we finally ate- a deliciously spicy Malay-style fish curry for me- we were ravenous and thoroughly enjoyed every bite of our delicious Malay meals, and every sip of our happy hour cocktails- the kind you only drink while on holidays.The drinking continued as we sat on the beach with our duty free booze and drank the night away while watching more lunar new year fireworks explode in a spectacle in front of us while other onlookers cheered with the delight of it all. The night became a blur that culminated in immense drunkeness and Jules getting stung by a jellyfish during a drunken ocean swim that seemed like a really good idea at the time...need I say more?
The next day was suprisingly and amazingly un-hungover....mostly just tiredness, but nothing that lying by the pool with a coffee, a book and a reflexology massage couldn't cure...very relaxing...and even better once a sunset time happy hour pina colada cocktail was in hand and drunk by the sunken bar which was actually IN the pool at the resort. We seemed to be staying in the party end of town, and the bars by night were packed with revellers drinking and eating- us among them. The night market which ran until midnight was packed with people and stall holders selling all manner of tacky and very un-Malaysian goods- I saw knock off everythings, cheap souvenirs probably made in China, goods from other Asian countries I have been to, perfumes, incense, lights and jewellery. It was fun to walk through and I did buy an Afghani imported necklace which reminded me of how diverse the Malay culture is. Whilst the language was the same for me on this trip, the food was different, the people looked different and there was definitely the feel that I was in a place that was not Indonesia. The diversity of Malays, Chinese, Indians and Tamals, the majority populations in Malaysia, was clearly evident. However, the Lebanese Italian restaurant still bemused me :-) To top off the multicultural element of the evening, we even got to view a traditional Chinese new year dragon dance as it serenaded a restaurant near where we ate dinner. It was great to really be able to experience the Chinese new year celebrations, something we may not have been able to see in other parts of Malaysia, given Penang's predominant Chinese population.
The final day of the trip we all ventured into Georgetown, the main city of Penang, which was actually extremely quiet due to all the shops being closed for the new year period. The colonial architecture was still charming, and as we walked through Little India and Little China I thought they did live up to their "little" names as they were each merely a couple of street blocks that comprised each individual zone. We enjoyed some vegetarian Indian food and wandered round a bit, then Jules and Janosche departed for their trip to Langkawi, and Sally and I hunted down some real street vendor Malay-style laksa....and then decided to live-it up for our last hours in Penang, and ended up in the bar of the Eastern Oriental Hotel.
There is nothing like Asian hospitality, and we got to enjoy this when we arrived at the hotel, smelly and sweaty from walking through the 37 degree day while dragging our wheelie bags behind us. It was like a sanctuary as we stepped into the air-conditioned foyer of the old colonial hotel. The concierge were dressed in full safari suits including plinth hats, and they greeted us with welcome arms, put our luggage aside, ordered us a taxi for when we wanted to head to the airport and directed us to the bar. It was such a smooth and efficient moment of impeccable service, and I could feel myself instantly relax as we stepped into the serene outdoor eating area. Here, we enjoyed a wine while we people watched and observed how the other half live. The rich and sophisticated stay in places like this which cost $300 per night....and it is fun to be a pretender and to just appreciate the surrounds and service without actually staying. Sitting in the gorgeous gardens under palm trees with the ocean and pool in front of us with a glass of wine in hand was the perfect way to end the all-too-brief trip and to start plotting for the next one...maybe in one of the Conde Naste highly recommended resorts next time so that we too can experience what it is like to totally splurge for a weekend!
It was quick, too quick, but super fun and ever so great to spend time with two of my best girlfriends and to catch up after time apart. While there is nothing like long weekends away exploring new places, after this fourth in a row, I am also starting to feel like there is nothing like a weekend in town too....so now I am plotting not for my next holiday, but for my next apartment day and how I am going to spend a weekend going nowhere!
There is not much about the word parasite that evokes much love or joy among humans. But, as many travellers will attest to, they can easily become part of your life, and quite literally your very being, despite all precautions and care not to catch these nasty little critters. Unfortunately, they are usually easy to acquire but way more difficult to exterminate, making parasite amoeba infections a common downside to overseas travel. In my years of being abroad, I've acquired more than my fair share of these little menaces. The worst and most difficult to eradicate definitely was a bout of giardia acquired whilst in India, and which left my stomach never quite feeling the same. The side effects of providing a home for most of these gut and colon abiding wretches are similar: stomach cramps, nausea, lethargy, diarrhoea, bloating and wind. These awful symptoms of being a parasitic host can be quite debilitating, and finding a prognosis even more humiliating (when a doctor instructs that a diagnosis has to be made in the lab only after pooping into a cup, it is definitely not a good moment). Then once it is known which of the menaces has been contracted, the cure is often as nasty as the symptoms. This is because the usual treatment for expelling these miniscule monsters is not at all pleasant: a round of hardcore antibiotic medications in some crazy chemical combination that more often than not leaves the body feeling toxic. There are usually dietary factors too, meaning avoidance of certain foods and even more frustrating, avoidance of alcohol during the course of treatment. Oh the joys of travel!
But it is not all bad....there is one bonus of parasite amoeba acquisition- weight loss. . How else could one really get away with eating and drinking their way through a country's cuisine and manage to come out kgs lighter? Actually, this is about the only benefit, and the doctors’ fees, embarrassing lab tests, and unpleasant pharmaceutical fixes- not to mention the actual debilitation to the body and mind in acquiring the parasite...it all makes this weight-loss benefit somewhat negatable. I'd rather go to the gym and diet every day of my life than acquire a parasite, to be honest!
The topic of parasites may seem a little odd to those who don’t travel much. However, for frequent travellers out there, you will know that this topic is actually not so abstract. In fact, it is an amusing observation just how freely travellers, while on the road, will talk quite openly to almost strangers about their bowel movements and colonic states.While on tour and experiencing various states of stomach unrest, the topic of conversation more often than not is centred around a discussion and comparison of each other’s toilet habits. It is almost normal for a group of travellers to provide each other with daily ablution updates. Sometimes, it even seems as though it proves just how hardcore you really are among the pack, depending on what parasite you have acquired and managed to conquer, almost like a rivalry between travellers.
Which brings it all back to me. I have been diagnosed with the Blastocystitis hominous amoebic parasite, appropriately nick-named Blacto for short. The surprisingly common and annoyingly hardy parasite has infected my gut, and now needs to be removed, despite the cozy and no-doubt nutritious environ I'm currently providing it with. Apparently ol' Blacto does tend to settle into its host and can be hard to expunge, so I really hope it hasn't got too comfy occupying my colon.
It's really all completely annoying and inconvenient, unpleasant and uncomfortable. I realise too the irony that there is with my comfort in sharing this tale of windy woe with the world...I'm on-par with all the other travellers out there who are also dealing with (and discussing openly) their medical conditions of the gut. But hey, I'm always looking for new things to write about and I guess I know enough people reading this blog will understand and sympathize, and perhaps even have their own story of parasite hell to relay in response. In true traveller fashion, of course! It seems there is nothing like a parasite to make a good story!
In writing about parasites then, it would be remiss of me not to mention a few facts. Many parasitic amoeba like the one presently invading me, are actually very common, especially among those who live in tropical countries. Apparently, an astounding 80% of the population may actually be carriers (without symptoms) of this particular invasive enemy! Blastocystitis hominus is regarded as the most common of ALL the intestinal parasites out there, and it’s possible for anyone to catch it, because experts are not even certain exactly how the parasite is spread. So look out, anyone is in danger of being a parasite carrier...the amoeba are out there, just waiting to strike on the innocent!
I really wouldn’t wish this experience on anyone, and I just hope that Round One of medications clears my gut of these evil invaders, and that normality will return to my body soon. I’m so pleased that this coming weekend is a long one, and I can just spend the weekend recuperating and gaining vengeance on the vile little creatures as I feed them the prescribed meds rather than my flora. An all-out war has now been waged- me against the Blasto! Wish me luck!
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There is nothing like a reminder about the preciousness of life than a near death experience. I am not talking about my own here, but that of a total stranger, a face I don’t think I will ever forget.
Today, I was happily lying by the pool in my apartment block, reading a book, lying in the sun, enjoying a mango shake, minding my own business in my deck chair, while children squealed and played in the pool. Then, suddenly pulling me urgently from the pages I was reading, was the terrified scream of someone in the pool. This wasn’t the usual screams of fun- this was ear splitting and spine tingling. So I looked up and saw a small body floating in the water. It actually took me a moment to realise that this wasn’t a kid playing dead, this kid really wasn’t breathing, and he needed to be saved. Some people already in the pool had swum over and were carrying the boy to the side of the pool. I now wish I had actually jumped in at this stage and used my rescue swimming skills to get him out quicker and more efficiently. I am not really good at knowing what is best to do in moments like this.
By now a significant group of about 25 people had gathered to the poolside and the boy was being pulled from the water. I was watching all of this from a few metres away, not wanting to be another onlooker in the crowd. It was also just awful to hear the boy’s mother bawling and another girl screaming…then I realised that actually, nobody was doing much of anything except panic. Some people did make some attempt at doing first aid, other people were calling ambulances and others were calling the security guards (god knows they what they could do) and it was then that something switched in my head- I have to help this boy if he is going to live. So I stepped in and announced that I could do CPR, and I started ordering people around, and we started pumping this little boy’s 6-year old heart, then breathing into his lungs.All I could remember from my Red Cross training a few years ago was 30 pumps and 2 breaths. 30-2-30-2. I just kept doing that, focussed on his little face, willing him to breathe.
Ironically I had a conversation just two weeks ago with some friends about a new technique that is now being used in which you don’t do the breathing but you just pump, but quicker, and these thought were also racing through my mind. Was I doing this right? WAS it 30-2 or more, or less? If water was in his lungs, does that affect the air going in? What if I wasn’t helping at all? Why can’t I remember more!
Then, white foam came out of his mouth, and then, hallelujah, he gulped for air! He was breathing again! He was alive! I have never, ever felt such relief as I looked at this small little boy and saw his chest and stomach rising and falling. Thank god, he was conscious. We moved him onto his side into the recovery position, splashed water onto him to keep him cool (he was still in the baking sun-there was no shade at all around) and by this stage word came that the ambulance had arrived and he was whisked away by his family.
I sat down. People came and thanked me. It was a blur. Adrenaline was obviously racing through me, and I needed to get out of the sun and back to my apartment. I phoned a couple of people, to re-tell what had happened as a part of my own understanding that yes, I had just been responsible for saving a life. One friend who has lived here a very long time said that Indonesians generally don’t know what to do in these situations, as they aren’t taught first aid or even basic safety, like we are in Australia. Another friend reminded me that health and safety issues here are not a priority and that the watchful eyes that we need to keep on under 5s are perhaps not as watchful as they would be in Australia. Sometimes I think we overdo health and safety in the West, but now I can see that actually, it does save lives and prevents injury.
I don’t know what happened to the boy and why he had drowned in the pool, and I can only hope he was taken to the hospital and that he is now doing ok. One thing I do know is that if I didn’t have the knowledge I have been fortunate to have learned with regards to first aid, then that boy probably wouldn’t be alive now. And now my crusade begins! CPR should be taught in all schools to everybody, everywhere. This very basic first aid training, a one day course, is all that is needed to get the basic knowledge to help someone who has stopped breathing. I’ve never had to use it until now, and never really thought I would. And I am actually hopeless when it comes to blood and broken limbs, and I DO panic if someone faints or collapses…and I DID panic today until some part of my common sense kicked in. In another incident recently- while in KL- a man collapsed from heat on top of me and my friends at a bus station and we had to help him…and I did just freeze with panic then too. I would never be a good nurse or doctor, which is why I am in the teaching profession.
It actually doesn’t matter what you do or who you are- today is the perfect example of how you just never, ever know when the skill is going to be needed. My actual first aid certificate from years ago has no-doubt expired and is in need of renewal- but that doesn’t erase the fact that I still knew what to do today by the pool after doing that course- more than the locals around me did, anyway. Parents, teachers, travellers, anyone who lives somewhere that there are kids around, everybody who is ever in contact with people, should be equipped to assist to save a life should they need to. You won’t regret it, but may if you don’t. Simple as that.
When one of the first new ex-pat friends I made here in Jakarta announced that she and her Indonesian partner were going to get married in two weeks time, it was destined to be anything but conventional. With her being an atheist kiwi, and her partner being a local of the Muslim faith, it was already going to be different to most Western and Indonesian wedding days. Through combining a multicultural and religious mix to the short preparation time, then adding local traditions, and finishing with a sprinkling of Indonesian bureaucratic paperwork, there were enough ingredients for it to be a potential recipe for disaster. The only hope of the bride and groom was that the day would be “fun and memorable”, and if that was to be the main outcome for the wedding then I think that was certainly achievable and realistic!
The cultural adventure began in the early morning (well, early for a Sunday) on a scorching hot and oppressively humid day, chosen for no auspicious reason other than that was as soon as it could get organized. All attempts had been made to ensure the wedding was minimal fuss, but even having just a fortnight of build up to the big day was enough to create tension and excitement as the "bridal party" and invited guests gathered at the designated meeting spot. It was just a small group of fun, good friends and close family members who were taking part in the whole wedding experience. We all gathered in our best dressy attire, and proceeded to melt off all our makeup and hair products, as we waited in the baking Jakartan heat while last minute preparations for the day were completed.
Only the day before, my friend the bride had spent a similarly hot, stressful day taking part in various ceremonies, speeches and lectures, as she converted to Islam. Making the promise to be faithful and to worship only one god for someone who is an atheist and opposed to all formalised religion was a massive step, almost bigger than the wedding itself. She likened it a bit to “going to the dentist”, something that you don’t want to do, but that you have to. This religious conversion was an essential part of the Indonesian marital process. Local law insists that a marriage can only be recognized if both the bride and groom share the same religious faith. So it came to be that the bride went from being an unattached atheist to a Muslim wife in one weekend.
It was on the faith conversion day that initial contact had been made with the woman who’d been hired to organise all the marriage paperwork- a necessary job in a country like Indonesia which has an obsession with rubber stamps. This woman was very quickly given the nickname Crazy Lady by my friends who had dealt with her, and little did I realize just how apt this name was for her until later when I actually met her.
Before Crazy Lady came on the wedding day scene, however, we had our first diversion of the day. We had two 8-seaters cars driving in a convoy to an area outside of central Jakarta where the government office was located and was where the official ceremony would be taking place. Nobody really seemed to know where this office was, and what the exact program was for the day, but we were all happy enough to follow along and see what eventuated. So when the cars stopped in a little village, we all hopped out to get some fresh air. We lasted about 2 minutes before we were cowering for some protective shade, and once we did, we stood around, and sweated for a while, not really knowing why were standing around in the heat. Then all was revealed when the groom’s family appeared and were introduced to us all, before they were piled into a taxi (there must have 8 people squashed together in one taxi!), we returned to our cars (one person per seat) and we were on the road again.
Enter Crazy Lady, aka the wedding organizer. Or maybe that should be disorganizer, as she did a much better job at that than her actual job description. She really was stark raving mad, and no amount of story-telling about her behavior from the day before could really properly prepare me for the manic behavior of this woman. First of all, she was late. Hours late for the wedding she was paid to organise! And she was the one who knew where we had to go. So we had to stop the convoy in a carpark at a designated landmark so she could find us in order to direct the drivers. We waited for almost an hour, melting away. It was at this point that it was decided that it was time to open the bubbles, smuggled all the way from Australia in the bride’s sister’s luggage. It is amazing how bubbles before breakfast can really add a rosy glow to an otherwise underwhelming expanse of concrete surrounds….and I am sure it was the bubbles, swigged straight from the bottle in turns, that allowed us to cope with Crazy Lady when she arrived. And boy, she sure made an entrance. She came waltzing into the carpark where we had been waiting for her, and proceeded to accost the sister of the bride with whom she seemed to have an infatuation, grabbing and squeezing her quite aggressively while laughing maniacally.
This was our cue to re-load into the cars, with Crazy Lady being positioned in the back seat of the car I was sharing with 5 other passengers. Oh boy, was I in for a treat! Free entertainment began from the backseat as Crazy Lady began ranting and raving all sorts of nonsense, then totally cracking onto the brother of the groom- an innocent 22 year old Indonesian guy- by rubbing her hand up and down his leg until he told her to stop, then shouting into her mobile phone which she would hold in front of her face to talk into before replacing it to her ear, and being just downright rude, making all sorts of lude remarks and sexual innuendo. This is a woman in her late 50s, wearing a jilbab, who was meant to be organizing the details of the wedding!
We were driving for quite a while, her insisting we were going the right way, before our driver put his foot down (literally, onto the pedal!) and insisted he get some real directions. Turns out we had been driving for about 20 minutes in the wrong direction to the government office we were meant to be heading to! So the convoy had to u-turn and we drove some more, asked for more directions, the whole time Crazy Lady loudly babbling away in the back seat. Then, suddenly, we were there! At last!
Things kind of moved along quickly at this point. A government official appeared, a white head scarf was added to the bride’s attire, the groom donned his traditional songkok (hat), and then the bride and groom, his parents and the groom’s witness gathered around a giant wooden table chaired by the official who conducted the formal wedding procedures. This was all done in Indonesian, and I couldn’t understand it all, but it looked serious by everyone’s expressions. There was a small, scrappy piece of paper which had the vows the groom had to read aloud, there was a checking of documents, then a short prayer, a shaking of hands, and the whole ceremony was over in about ten minutes. There was an exchange of rings- a stage nearly forgotten about altogether until the groom was reminded. He then had to rummage through some bags to find the gold rings- valued at Rp. 50,000 each (that is about USD$5!)- and remove the price tags, before they were lovingly placed onto the wedding fingers. Then a kiss, and a cheer, and the formal proceedings were over.
After having rounds of pictures taken, we piled into the cars again, trying our absolute hardest to leave behind Crazy Lady, who had spent the entire ceremony smiling luridly at one of the guests and then laughing in random outbursts at inappropriate times. It turned out that the wedding was not even formalized on this day, because she had not provided all the correct documentation, and the bride and groom would have to return the next day to complete the required forms in order to get their official government issued wedding book. In the end we had to let Crazy Lady into the car, but we took her to the main road, and dropped her off at a busy intersection, waving her goodbye. No way in the world was she invited to the wedding lunchtime feast!
We drove to another village and enjoyed a delicious lunch at the relatives of the groom’s home in a typical Indonesian community. It was wonderful! Simple, but fitting really. Yummy food, plenty of bubbles- drunk from old coffee mugs and re-used plastic Aqua water cups- and there was even entertainment with a friend performing some tunes to dance and sing to. Curious children came to see what was going on and to get close to the foreigners who were in their village, and everyone kicked back and drank and ate and became merry as more bottles of bubble were consumed in the midday heat. And it wasn’t the end of Crazy Lady either. She got back on the phone, ranting to whoever would listen, about how she was angry she hadn’t been invited to the reception, and that it wasn’t a real wedding unless she was there. Oh boy, she sure knew how to cause a stir! She had caused nothing but trouble, been rude and incompetent and then expected to be part of the special day!
More dancing and singing, then the bubbles ran out. So there were some speeches, all translated for everyone to understand. The bride’s sister read out some letters from family at home. The groom shyly made a short speech. Then there was my favourite line of the day. When the groom’s family welcomed the bride into theirs, they said “We have nothing to offer you- except for him!” Which is fine, because I think that is all the bride wanted really, anyway.
It was time to leave and head back to the city, but not before finding and rescuing three teeny, tiny week-old kitten from a ditch where they had been left by their mother who was nowhere to be seen. It was quite fitting really that the dreaded wedding head scarf found a use, with the “wedding” kittens being wrapped in the scarf to stay warm and cozy for the trip back to Jakarta. But the day didn’t end then. There was a delicious Thai dinner, of many courses, some more wine, some more cheers. As the night wore on, the troops became weary. What a lot we’d all been through in one very long and entertainment-filled day! It sure was an experience, a cultural adventure, a wedding day like no other, and missions accomplished! Two beautiful people wed, and two words left to describe the day- fun and memorable!
If you ask any average Indonesian person living in Jakarta what they miss the most about living in the Big Durian, they will invariably tell you they miss their kampung. The kampung, or home village, is the place where there is a total sense of community and security. It is where most Indonesians live now, or came from before they made it big, and where everybody's heart remains. I have been wanting to write about the kampung life for sometime, but only recently did I have a chance to spend an afternoon in one of these tight-knit, self-contained villages where life is simple, and which is the lifeblood of Indonesian life. Instead of explaining in words, I have chosen these pictures to form a kind of photo essay to try and show what kampung life is all about.
Another long weekend, another excuse to get away to yet another picturesque piece of paradise, this time in Phuket. Well, technically speaking, this most recent trip wasn't really spent on the island of Phuket. Even though two Saturday's ago when I landed in Thailand, it was at the Phuket International Airport, where I actually stayed was an hour north of the airport and onto the mainland.
My latest adventure began when I arrived at the terminal, gathered my bags and changed currency hassle-free. Then, as I exited immigration no-doubt looking slightly disoriented and trying to get my bearings, a taxi driver caught my off-guard-eye and so began the haggling and after some negotiation on a price, he was the lucky tout who got to lead me to his vehicle. We then proceeded to hurtle along a highway, speed over a bridge that joined the island to the southern tip of Thailand, and then zoomed for another 45 minutes through what felt like might have been the end of the earth, before delivering me (somewhat hot and windswept) to a beautiful coastal resort on Khaolak Beach. The journey was well worth it, and the recommendation to stay at this quiet, serene beach as opposed to the busy and crowded beaches of the island was a great tip.
The Baan Krating Resort was actually a lucky Agoda find. The accommodation was a little villa, nestled among rainforest, and with a balcony overhanging a cliff that looked out over the vast, azure sea and the golden sands below. A short walk down some steep steps led straight to a private beach and sun-deck area, and along the beach was a selection of restaurants and beach bars- most of which had happy hour sunset cocktails.
I was the first out of my travelling party to arrive at Khao Lak beach. I was to be joined by Caggie who was coming from Hanoi that evening, and Sally who would arrive from Singapore on the Sunday night. My arrival at about 4pm on Saturday provided the perfect opportunity to explore. First things first, I had to get my body into the ocean. Swimming in the sea is something from which I derive a lot of pleasure, and it had been too long between dips. I had the shock of my life when I splashed into the water and felt that the temperature was like that of a bath, it must have been 25 degrees! Not quite as refreshing as I would have liked, but still so lovely to soak my skin in the salty sea and let the water and sand wash over me. The beach always makes me feel so cleansed and free.
After my warm soak, I sat myself down at one of the beachside restaurants, squished my feet in the hot sand, and filled my belly with a spicy glass noodle salad and a beer. One beer turned into two as I had unknowingly arrived in time for 2-4-1 happy hour! Bonus! I then decided to walk off the food and booze and take a walk up the beach. It was such a pleasure to stroll along the shoreline, collect shells, climb over sea boulders and then watch as the massive sun descended into the horizon line, treating me to one of the most divine and majestic sunsets I have seen in a very long time. So magical.
By the time the red glow of the sun had disappeared and the burnt orange hues of the sky were almost gone, it was time for me to head back to the villa to await the arrival of Caggie. She arrived to find me engrossed in a gripping novel, but with over a year since we'd last caught up, there were many months of tales of our own to share. We nattered away for hours over some fresh seafood at one of the local restaurants and then over Chang beers at one of the beach bars. We were wobbly when we left to trudge through the sand and up the many, (really, really, really steep) steps to our villa.
What a suprise Caggie had in the morning when she looked out of the villa window to see the scene outside. The darkness lit only by twinkling stars above had been replaced by the million dollar view across Khao Lak beach. Nursing wee hangovers, first stop was the resort's infinity pool for a refreshing swim, before relaxing on the beach and then in the warm Andaman Sea waters. Lunchtime was another opportunity to pig out on my favourite Thai food and we took another stroll up the beach and discovered the sleepy little town. We then met Sally when she arrived and enjoyed a Thai curry (at the town's Irish Bar, go figure!) and drank some more beers. Khao Lak town was hardly a pumping metropolis and the night life seemed to end at about 10:30pm...one of the downsides of staying on an almost secluded beach.
It was actually good to get an early night, as we had to rise pretty early the next morning to enjoy the buffet breakfast feast on offer as part of our hotel package, and to then get ourselves off on a day tour to the Similan Islands. These islands are a place not only after my own name, but apparently my heart too. What a stunning and exotic place we were to spend the day! The islands are actually an archipeligo of nine small islands, 1.5 hours on a speed boat away from Thailand, and really close to the Burmese border. Not only are these islands absolutely untouched and simply beautiful, they are also one of the top ten dives sites in the world. I could only imagine what the diving was like, with the snorkelling being some of the best I have indulged in for a long time. There was an abundance of fish in a rainbow of colours, and on two separate islands on the one day, sea turtles swam on by and swam among us as we floated on the surface looking down through the crystal clear, turquoise water. The reef was a kaleidoscope of colour and marine action. On this day trip we had also had a chance to relax on sand as white as snow, sitting underneath a palm tree, looking out over dramatically picturesque waters. I could not get over how clear the water was, and how many shades of blue and green and turquoise there were in one body of still sea. Absolutely divine.
We were a sun-kissed trio when we arrived back at our resort in the late afternoon, and it was only fitting that we enjoy a cocktail or three as we watched another gorgeous, theatrical sunset fill the sky with shades of orange and red and pink. We then enjoyed the evening over a delicious fresh fish barbeque and filled our bellies with scrummy food and cold beer.
A perfect few days away was made complete the next day when I enjoyed an hour long Thai massage from a little hut on the beach. I listened to the waves crashing as I was rubbed down, and had my limbs bent this way and that, and opened my eyes at the end to see a cute, three-legged beach cat sitting just a few centimeters away from my face! He sure had a good life!
It was sad to have to leave such a piece of paradise and to say goodbye to my lovely girlfriends who were staying on for a few more days in the luscious surrounds. Unlike some weekends away of late, at least at the end of this short trip I felt relaxed and rejuvenated. The hour-long taxi journey to the airport hardly seemed harrowing, the long transfer wait time at the LCC airport in KL bothered me none, and I sunk into my bed back in Jakarta and thanked the universe for making such a gorgeous place exist and for making me so lucky to be able to enjoy it.
The thing that struck me the most within the first half an hour of arrival in Singapore was just how efficient and orderly everything was, making life extremely simple. A quick line at immigration, baggage all ready for collection upon exit from immigration, and then people who spoke English (well, a highbrid form of it) at the currency exchange and then a very organised taxi line. It was literally just 35 minutes after I’d landed and I was in a taxi on my way to Clarke Quay to meet Sally. The journey didn’t take long and Sally and I reunited without any dramas and then settled down for a dinner of Tapas and some wine on the bustling riverside. It was quite surreal to be in another new city, but one that seemed strangely familiar. Even though all that I had seen of Singapore before now had been in the airport (where I have spent many millions of hours awaiting flight connections) I felt as though I had been to this place before. Perhaps it was just how NORMAL it all felt. In fact, I remarked at the time that even though I knew I was sitting on Clarke Quay in Singapore, that it could have really been anywhere- Sydney’s Darling Harbour, Brisbane’s Southbank- and I was struck by just how “Asia-Lite” the tiny island metropolis actually is. This all intrigued me too- I felt like I needed to find Singapore’s soul over the space of the weekend, to try and understand how this place in Asia, could feel so un-Asian yet still be so.
My initial explorations took me just a few metres up the clean, pedestrianised Quay to a English-style pub called the Crazy Elephant…nothing much too unique about this place…but it had beer (not cheap by Asian standards….in fact, I would say that after spending- time as well as money- over the weekend in Singapore that the cost of living is higher than that of Australia’s)…which we then managed to have bought for us by en eclectic bunch of Swiss lads who kept us plied with beer and entertainment for the evening until we were too drunk and tired and left them to party and we went back to Sally’s apartment. Her condo is really modern and centrally located, and very cosy, and apparently quite typical of these kind of dwellings in Singapore.
We awoke slightly seedy in the morning, but that was ok, because all that lay ahead for us was an entire day of indulgence at the Sentosa Spa, one of Singapore’s most exclusive. Wow, what a day of pampering we had….it didn’t take long for the hangovers to disappear in this heavenly haven. We were led to a locker room where we donned robes and slippers and were then whisked away to our own private outdoor villa where we then enjoyed a blissful pamper package that included a foot soak, dry rub, body scrub, flower petal hot tub then an hour long therapeutic oil massage. Phew! 3.5 hours later we emerged from the sanctuary to the Sentosa Spa café. Here we enjoyed delicious sandwiches which were actually like little mini burgers- very cute and delicious! We then had a very expensive coffee before we retreated to the rest of the spa grounds to enjoy the rest of the day in the lap of luxury. There were several pool areas to rest by and swim in, and we just had to make use of the mud bath where we covered ourselves in mud (which apparently is meant to be good for your skin!). There were all kinds of delicious teas available to drink all day and everything about the place oozed luxury. It was my first time at a day spa, and I now think it is something everyone has to do once in a lifetime….and should do at least once a year!
After the day of pampering came to an end, Sally and I then set off to explore the delights of the Sentosa Island beaches. The beaches are somewhat surreal. The sand is all imported from Indonesia, and all that can be seen along the horizon is oil refinery after oil refinery. The dichotomy between the somewhat beautiful sandy beach and green trees where children were playing volleyball and teens were swimming in the sea against the downright ugly industry kinda defined Singapore for me. Then, after the sun had set (which we watched from sun chairs with a cocktail at the Café del Mar bar), the oil refineries were all lit up, the little mini cities at sea, the lights dancing like fireflies over the ocean, were no less beautiful than a street lit up with lanterns and fairy lights, winding the parallel beauty of Singapore back to full circle.
We managed to get caught up in the packs of families who had all come out for the night to enjoy the playground that is Sentosa. We had previously avoided the crowds that gather for the Light and Sound Spectacular- a very tacky show that happens every night- but then got tangled in the queue of people getting onto the island monorail….the fact there was an orderly queue that didn’t take too long to disperse actually amazed me…
Sally and I then had another Spanish meal at a restaurant in a mall near the island- delicious paella and refreshing cider- then we caught a taxi into town and did a mini-bar hop through a gorgeous complex called Chijmes. An old restored church and nunnery have been converted into bars and restaurants with a big outdoor courtyard area. I’d never really been to any place that I can compare Chijmes to, this is a lovely, unique place for being entertained. We tried a few different bars- my fave being a micro-brewery- before we finally called it a night.
The next morning Sally had to go to work (poor Sal!) so I met up with friends from Jakarta who were in Singapore on their way back to Australia to live. I found Kate and Vaughan at their hotel and we got some breakfast on Orchard Road, then we walked up and down the many kilometres that make this long, famous shopping street. Again it struck me that I could have been walking around Melbourne or Sydney, and it was easy to forget the reality of where I was- in Asia, in Singapore- and I could see why this city would appeal to so many people to live and visit.
Once our legs were about to drop off, we got onto the Metro and made our way to the Singapore Zoo for the afternoon. Even the journey was quite lovely- efficient public transport journeyed us through the suburbs which were enveloped by greenery and open spaces, definitely not something you see much of in Jakarta! Then the Zoo- what a fabulous place! Not like a zoo at all, most of the enclosures allowed the animals to roam quite freely in very natural looking surrounds. I fell in love with the orangutangs, adored the gibbons, was amazed by the proboscis monkeys, enjoyed the big cats and bizarre African animals such as zebra, giraffe and rhino and was delighted by the penguins and polar bears. When we could barely walk anymore, we stopped for some food- yum, Singapore laksa!- before we left the zoo for the city again.
I met Sal back at her condo and we then had a drink and got ready to go out again! The plan had been to have dinner and go to the Asia Tower, but after we discovered the ridiculous cover charge on weekends, we ended up meeting Kate and Vaughan and Sally’s friend Sarah back at Chijmes. This night we enjoyed pizza and wine under the stars in the courtyard. We then had a few more beers in the complex but were all exhausted and retired around midnight- very sensible!
Then, Easter Sunday! Another day of treats and indulgence! Easter lunch had been booked at the lovely Fullerton Hotel on the river in the Colonial district. Before this though, was the obligatory visit to Raffles for a Singapore Sling in that infamous courtyard. After that extremely expensive slurp, came the extravagant affair at the Fullerton. Wow- so much delicious food and free pour of bubbles and other booze. It was necessary to execute a plan of attack so as to try as much or everything in 3.5 hours without physically exploding. My Buffet Attack Plan went something like: full plate of fresh seafood including oysters, crayfish and fish, then sushi bar for nigari and sushi rolls, then roast vegetables, then dessert ba for various sweet delights, then cheese bar for oodles of cheesy goodness, and in-between each of these courses came at least one glass of bubbles and either a daiquiri or a bloody mary (just cos they were being offered!). Oh boy, I really thought I might pop by the end of this afternoon of excessive consumption. It was so fun getting to such a state though, and it was excellent to have Kate and Vaughan to enjoy it all with.
I had to say goodbye to those two, then say farewell to my tour guide extraordinaire Sally, then I had to get on a plane back to Jakarta, which turned out to be 1.5 hours late. It was rather unpleasant being half drunk and on the verge of a hangover, exhausted from a big weekend, full from too much food, and the next day at work looming in the mind, and to be stuck in an airport departure lounge. However, this time in the airport gave me time to decide my feelings about Singapore. I certainly had a good time, but that could have just been because of being with my friends. It was clean, and orderly, and well organised. It was easy to get around, and the greenery was nice. I didn’t really have any dealings with the people, other than the taxi drivers who I seemed to only have confusing Singlish conversations with, and I didn’t really try much of the local food. There wasn’t anything abnormal and unusual that I saw (other than the animals at the zoo!) and nothing really struck me….other than the price of things. I had some great experiences- the spa, the dinners, the drinks, the lunch, the zoo, and they were all undeniably unique. But I couldn’t shake the feeling during my whole weekend that I felt like I was actually in Australia or Europe, and not an Asian city.
So….would I live in Singapore? Probably not…I’d rather just live at home. Would I visit again? For sure, and I have no doubt that I will, though it will probably be to meet with Sally or other friends for another indulgent weekend away. Did I discover Singapore’s soul? No, I really don’t think so, not this time anyway. But I did have a good time? Hell yeah! It was an awesome, memorable, fun and sanguine time, which I have to thank Sally and Singapore for providing.
There are some places I have been to that I want to return to but haven't yet, and some where I may never go to even if I want to, and many places that I haven't been to but plan to see. There are also places, like Tiger Island, where I have been several times and always want to return to and CAN....so I DO! I don't think I could ever get bored of it! Even though it's such a small place it takes ten minutes, walking slowly, to circumnavigate, each time I return I see or do or experience something new. I meet new, interesting people and have fresh, enlightening conversations, I will stay in a different bungalow, and usually take someone new along with me, I’ll sit on the same sundeck but watch a different sunset, I will see a different moon setting and rising over the sea, and each time I snorkel I see something new. Funnily enough, every time I leave the island on a Sunday afternoon I end up feeling energized and rejuvenated and happy. In fact, everyone who is visiting feels happy the whole weekend, wearing big smiles that literally beam from our faces. It would be difficult not to feel great on this little island paradise!
I was lucky in my latest visit to Pulau Macan be able to play with my new underwater camera, and to really see the aquatic world in a new, photographic way. The living aquarium around the shores of the island became the focus of my camera lens as well as eyes, and was a stunning kaleidoscope of colour and movement. There is something so peaceful about floating in the water peering down into the aquatic playground below, and observing a whole other world that is usually unseen . From the microscopic little plankton to the scary sea urchins and their menacing spikes, the pretty coloured fish and living corals and shells, and schools of fish swimming right around me, it was all there a few metres from shore for us to enjoy.
Along with snorkelling, I also went on another kind of island adventure with my island companion for this trip, Nicola. It was slightly ridiculous when a tiny Indonesian man rowed us two big foreigners over to the small neighbouring island, it seemed almost mean as he worked hard to row us there. Then we sat on the coarse white sand and gossiped while we watched some of the guys kicking a ball around in some kind of ball game that I didn’t even try and understand. When the small island posse all decided it was time to leave the small island in search of water and beer, our transportation went from ridiculous to the sublime and actually quite funny. For our return boat journey to the big island, this time with the low tide in effect, our oarsman actually WALKED us back, pulling our small wooden boat with us inside behind him! Talk about new experiences and perspectives!
As always, the guests on the island all gathered on the sunset deck to watch the sun setting together. The big orange sun set in the middle of the skyline between two other neighbouring islands, and as the rays set below the horizon, the spirits of the visitors livened up. The dusk turned to night and after our delicious communal meal we gathered for drinks and funny conversations and plenty of beers.
Then the next day was as relaxing as the last, involving more snorkelling and swimming, more reading and chilling, more chats with new friends and more hammock time. It’s always a sad feeling to leave, and I always feel the need to linger for longer before boarding the boat back to Jakarta. The 90 minute speed boat ride (which was actually much speedier this last trip as we cruised over flat seas) is actually a lovely intermediary between the island serenity and the city sounds that lay ahead. Sitting on the back of the boat with the wind breezing through my hair as the boat powers effortlessly across the sea is exhilarating!
And so it is that I have written a fifth blog entry about the same place, which proves that every experience can be seen from new and fresh perspectives! Enjoy mine of the fish and sea life pictures which follow!
There is a certain kind of constance to life in Jakarta, which I think is due to the sun. As someone who is a sun worshipper, living so close to the equator really suits me. I really like the predictability of the days. There is something quite comforting about knowing that at the same time, every day (give or take a few minutes) the sun will rise, bringing in a new, hot day, and that it will then set again at 6pm, slowly bringing the darkness and a night that will be as warm as the day was. For me, it is great that the days are the same length, and the temperature is relatively unchanging.
My favourite time of day is just before 6pm. The calls to prayer start in the mosques which surround my apartment. For some, this is a racuous time of time, but for me from my 28th floor vantage point, the chants are not a loud disturbance, but quite a lovely background tune to the setting sun. They create a rather soft, melodic resonance that reach up to my balcony's height from the distance in several directions.I find the chants quite haunting, especially as they echo across the graveyard that is below my apartment in a collision of sound, like several choirs singing within a small radius. Then the sun begins to set, a fiery orange ball in the sky that I can literally see falling.
More often than not, the sky fills with blazing reds and orange hues. Anyone who knows me knows how much I enjoy a good sunset, and from my balcony I can enjoy them often. I like how every one that I see is always different, even though the view and skyline itself remains the same. It shows me that even with the constance that is Jakartan life there is still some difference and change. There are the natural life rhythms like night and day, the changing moon and tides, as well as the seasons which change with the Earth’s revolutions. Even though I am not outwardly aware of these, I do notice the sun setting from a different angle and slightly different place along the horizon line, reminding me also that other parts of the world are experiencing seasonal changes (even here temperatures seem to be evolving from a humid 30 degrees plus to a dry 30 degrees plus plus!).
I enjoy watching the heat lightning strike out in the distance between the buildings once the night falls, and to listen to the wind howling outside the building on certain nights when there is a breezy reprieve from the stifling heat. I love the never ending summer and I think that this contributes to the happy people all around me. There is a lot to be said for the sun and its serotonin and vitamin D giving qualities, and the way that it affects our daily lives in a positive way. And the dreamy, magical show the sun puts on every night as it sets, helps to make my Jakartan days and dusks something to really enjoy.
When I first moved to Jakarta 9 months ago, it was automatic for me to compare every aspect of my old life in Hanoi to my new life in Jakarta. I used to find myself observing closely the daily happenings around me, from the traffic, to the people, to the food, and the language. Mostly, things were in stark contrast and after a few months things became so normal here, and life in Hanoi was such a distant memory, that my daily comparisons faded. Until recently, that is. Through an interesting twist in fate and destiny, I have spent time with several people who I knew (or who are friends of friends of people I knew) from Hanoi, when they have found themselves in Jakarta. Of course, these encounters with people who know Hanoi and have spent time in Jakarta, has led to discussing the commonalites we share, and inevitably the comparing and contrasting of these two wildly different cities. It is actually quite amazing how two places in the same region of the world, both Asian, both capital cities, could actually be so competely different. So it is that a whole series of little stories to blog about have come to my mind and need to be written....
One of the most obvious topics to talk about is traffic and transport. I would say that TRAFFIC is the thing that people mention the most whenever they talk about either Hanoi or Jakarta. In fact, the first Indonesian word I learnt was "macet" which means traffic jam. Jakartan traffic jams are notorious in this city, brought on mainly by the fact there are no public transport links to use to get around the city. Everyone here owns a car, and because there are 20 million people who live here, and only so many roads, the cars simply don't all fit when everyone is trying to drive their cars in the same direction at the same time. It's like a physics equation that you don't have to be Einstein to understand.
While Jakarta is in a constant state of jammed, Hanoi's traffic does flow. But it is simply crazy! And so, so noisy! Nobody follows any rules, everyone is on a motorbike and takes liberties to just drive any old place they like, any old way, beeping their horn as many times as they can per minute. There are so many motorbikes, it isn't possible to go fast, but the city is small enough that owning a motorbike is really the most efficient means of getting around. And everyone who owns a motorbike loves using the horn. Hanoi is a city that also lacks public transport, but with a much smaller population than Jakarta, and without quite as much wealth, so car ownership is still just blossoming (though I hear there are more and more cars on the roads with every day).
I think the memorable experience for most tourists in Hanoi would have some relation to the traffic- either riding in it, watching it and its frentic ways or trying to cross a road through it. Not so much a jam as a flurry of constant movement and sound, in which nothing will stop anyone in getting from A to B. Most Jakartans on the other hand just resolve themselves to getting nowhere in under two hours. That is why everyone owns Blackberries, to do their work while sitting in the backseat of a car or taxi, and why nobody ever gets anywhere on time.
It is also why the "ojek" or motorcycle taxi is an absolute god-send. I often have to go to a suburb south of where I live where there is quite a lot that goes on. On weekends I will usually find myself in Kemang to meet friends and go out to dinner or spend time at a cool bar. The distance itself is only a few kilometers, but depending on the traffic (which depends on a crazy calculation that is dependent upon the weather, how many demos there are and where they are, and what time of day on which day of the week it is) it can take anywhere from 15 minutes to 2 hours to go the fairly short distance in a car.
However, it is pretty much guaranteed that on an ojek, no matter what the macet calculation is for that time, I can get to Kemang in 20 minutes.This is because the ojek drivers are basically crazy! They are on a kamikaze mission to get to the destination as quickly and as efficiently as possible so that they can turn around, return to their designated street corner and pick up another passenger. This speed and efficiency is their whole livelihood. They weave between lanes of cars that are at a standstill, almost sideswipe car mirrors and cut off buses in their mission to move, they will drive down footpaths if the pathway on the road is not clear, dismiss traffic lights and other road rules and take little dirt back-roads too narrow for a car but perfect for motorbikes and people. And they get me to where I need to be in record speed no matter what the time of day is, at about half the price of a taxi.
A lot of my Indonesian friends and colleagues are a bit shocked when they hear about me using ojeks, as they are deemed unsafe and a bit lower class. However, they don't realise that I dealt with Hanoi traffic for three years! I drove myself on a motorbike in traffic much, much crazier and busier than Jakarta's roads, which to me seem nothing but efficient and orderly by comparison. I'm also used to getting motorcycle taxis. The old xe om drivers in Hanoi got me out of many a pickle if I'd found myself somewhere without my motorbike and wanted to get home quickly and cheaply. That said, I remember having a lot more arguments about fares with xe om drivers, and they were never safe to get home at night, when the driver was usually more drunk than I was after drinking shots of Hanoi vodka all day. It was at night time that a Hanoi Taxi would always be my means of getting around.
Which brings me to my other best friend in terms of transport in Jakarta- the trusty Blue Bird Taxi. These taxis are literally everywhere and would have to be one of the best taxi services I have ever used. They are cheap, efficient, the drivers are always friendly and things are always returned if they are left in the taxi. A colleague recently left her brand new, one-day old laptop in the backseat by accident and it was returned to her even though she didn't even know the taxi number! You can always find a Bluebird to take you home.
On the other hand, there have been several occasions when I have desperately wanted to get an ojek and not a single driver has been sitting on the regular corner that they usually call out to me from. That Murphy's Law used to often happen in Hanoi too. Where there would usually be a gang of xe om drivers, just when you really wanted one, not a single guy could be found. This would go up proportional to how hard it was raining. Both xe om and ojek drivers seem to be made of sugar that melt with the first sprinkling of rain drops.
I do miss riding my motorbike, but not when it would mean riding it in the rain across town in peak hour traffic. I love having a driver pick me up and drive me to work every day and having easay access to cheap and safe taxis. The macet isn't really a major part of my life because everything I need is within a short radius, and when I do venture out of my insular zone in Jakarta there are (nearly) always the ojeks to get me where I need (thrill ride kicks are for free!). It sure is a different kind of lifestyle here- much quieter, much more orderly, but a lot, lot slower too!
Yep. It's another post about me living the life in yet another piece of paradise. I know I am lucky. I appreciate my life more than anyone can understand. It had to be done though. How often does an old friend, housemate and travelling buddy from Australia visit? I just had to take the opportunity of Marie's visit to show her some of the places I love in Indonesia. So it came to be that we ended up for a long weekend away (yes, another....Indonesia celebrates all the religious holidays, which means a LOT of long weekends!) in Lombok and Gili Trewangan.
After a half day in Jakarta and one of its ubiquitous colonial cafes the Batavia, we made our way to the airport and jetted off on a crappy Lion Air flight to Mataram in Lombok. We arrived late, and it was comforting to find my name on a little plaquard upon exiting the luggage collection ruckass, to get into a lovely AC car to our hotel. We decided we were hungry and my Indonesian language skills (as limited as they are) came in handy for communictaing with the driver that we wanted food. In the end the only place with its kitchen still open was a divey little bar in Lombok's town centre, and all we got was a plate of french fries, which were better than nothing. We washed down the grease with a beer and continued the mission to the hote;. It was midnight by the time we checked into the Puri Mas, a little boutique hotel I found on Agoda, that was simply lovely.
Balinese in its design, it was way too romantic for two travelling buddies. Four poster bed with elegant mosquito net and flowers (somewhat wilted) interspersed in strategic places for optimal beauty made for a nice welcome to Lombok's Sengiggi Beach. We drank some beers and then retired for the night.
In the morning we got to actually enjoy our surrounss- beautiful gardens, luxury boutique villas, a charming restaurant and little bales by the infinity pool, picturesque ocean views. Oh, and the obligatory souvenir sellers showing their wares of fake pearls and friendhsip bracelets from little boxes which they held up expectantly, just at the invisible borderline created by the hotel security. We enjoyed a lovely breakfast, wandered around, soaked up the view of the mountains of Bali that sat just on the horizon line of the ocean, and took in the overall peace and serenity.
Then we braced ourselves for the taxi ride to the formiddable Banksa port, where Lombok's ferry mafia prey and where attempts to take our dosh occurred before we even got to the ferry. Of course, they wouldn't let our taxi take us all the way, and there was a conveniently located horse and cart at the ready to take us the rest of the distance to the ferry port, where of course we were accosted by the boat mafia who tried to trick us into making dodgy deals and to buy blackmarket ferry tickets from them. Even in our wiseness to their techniques, it was difficult to break away and get to the real port ticket office and get ourselves on a charter ferry over to Gili Trewangan Island. The half hour journey was pleasant, and arrival at Gili T even more so, with its turquoise seas beckoning us wlecomingly to the peaceful island where there are no motorised vehicles and a general vibe of relaxation.
Having been to Gili T before, I kinda had my bearings. We got on our second horse carriage ride of thhe day to Marta's villas where we were booked in to stay. The villas are a lovely place to have as a base, with gardens, a pool and cute little bungalows. We decided to look for a place to lunch, and found ourselves at the beachside which was filled with backpackers, and was where we found the inviting and cooling sea, cheap beers and cocktails and delicious salads. Just the place to while away the hours catching up and chilling out for the afternoon.
The evening saw us devouring seafoood barbeque, then drinking some more at a few of the island's bars. The island has a great nightlife, a dichotomy with its quiet and serene days. We had a resonably well-behaved evening, bearing in our minds diving the next day.
The last time I'd dived wason Gili T, and I was excited about exploring more of the divine ocean scenes. Marie was trying diving for the first time, while I organised fun dives for the morning and afternoons. I couldn't wait to try my newly purchased dive equipment- prescription mask, efficient fins and comfy booties.
For the first dive I was a little rusty, then by the second I was at ease in my ocean surrounds- and therefore it was much more enjoyable- and this was the same dive site which was Marie's first scuba experience. It was as colourful as I had remembered, the ocean gardens of corals and both micro organisms and big pelargics (including a graceful green sea turtle) made the dive more than memorable.
We made it back to the dive shop just as an unseasonal monsoonal storm hit, bringing lightning,thunder and a torrential downpour of rain. Marie and I hid out at the bar and drank the bar dry of Bintang, by which time the storm had eased (luckily for us!). The roads were, however, completely flooded, so we found ourselves wading through almost knee-high muddy waters, until we were beckoned when halfway back to Marta's by some of the divers we had met, who were sitting at another bar also whiling out the storm. We made the snap, easy decision to join them, where we enjoyed more chilled beers and their company.
As nightfell, we decided to make ourselves more human, and headed back for showers to scrub up for the night ahead. The Saturday nightime shenanigans included more seafood barbeque and then more bar hoppping. We attempted the mission to find a pool party we'd heard about in the centre of the island, but ended up failing. Marie retired and I made friends with some randoms. The Irish couple living in Alice Springs were great impromptu party buddies and I drank and talked with them until late (read- early).
Then what a lazy Sunday. It was dreary and grey, the guesthouse delivered breakfast to our bungalow and we lazed around drinking coffees for most of the morning. Then the sun and the humidity returned and we went for a wander around the island, before I had to get ready to leave. So sad.
It was difficult to pull myself away from the island, but another storm was brewing, I had a flight on Lombok to catch, and there was still a ferry and taxi ride (almost two hours of travelling) that lay ahead. So I grabbed a delicious take-away Gili Deli baguette and got myself on the ferry boat back to Lombok. The spits of rain started just as I made it to the main island, and a taxi awaited me for a nice dry ride to the airport.
My language skills came in handy again. I actually had time to spare and wanted to see a bit of Lombok. So I got my driver to take me on a mini-tour of Lombok en-route to the airport. This involved winding roads through beautiful green landscapes, a stop at a viewing vantage point which also included feeding peanuts to monkeys (which actually scare the hell out of me, but I had to be polite and pretend to enjoy feeding them, albeit from what I considered a safe distance), stops to view the river torrents that flowed through the ranforest, and a pitstop for food at a little roadside Lombok warung for some traditional food.
I made it in plenty of time for my flight, which ended up being delayed (should have known) and then the dodgy flight back to Jakarta. I was so chilled-out on arirval back to the metropolis that it barely bothered me that half the flight's luggage had been re-routed through Surabaya and so therefore did not arrive, and that there was a hassle with getting a taxi. I really do love my weekend getaways, who wouldn't- and I look forward to doing it all again this weekend . Yep, expect another entry that reads much the same :-)
Discovering a cute little family of four clown fish in a fluffy sea anemone on the reef just off the small close-to-Jakarta island I like to frequent was just the beginning of a great weekend. Along with being able to photograph these cute little fish, I was also able to take pictures of many other underwater delights, underwater photography being a new fun addition to my snorkelling and diving hobby. It was also great fun exploring the reef around the smaller adjacent island which included the sighting of a little eel and a bigger stingray. Then there was the deliciously spectacular table coral which stretched for kilometres along the coral reef where we snorkelled on the Sunday morning boat trip. Such a gorgeous expanse of unspoilt, radiant and alive coral is a rare treat to see. The one not-so-nice thing to find on this little snorkelling trip was an overabundance of the pretty-on-the-outside-but-evil-on-the-inside Crown of Thorn Starfish, a species which have been imported to the area and have the potential to slowly kill the entire gorgeous reef. We did endeavour to clear some of them, but this is a task that will take vigilance and close monitoring to ensure the starfish don’t destroy everything that makes the region so amazing to explore.
On land, other wonderful things were also found. Some great new Jakartan friends were made, for a start. There was also an abundance of laughter, sunshine, beers, delicious food and a little sunset party that led to all sorts of night-time shenanigans happening, all ready for the taking (and not so difficult to find at all!). I also found myself happily engaged in two completely relaxing and worry-free days to enjoy what I love most about life, and to remind me why I work hard each day and what it takes to pursue my dreams.
I really do feel like I have discovered more than a weekend getaway on my regular jaunt out of town, and it’s now more than a place to take my visiting friends. The small little island has become a place where ideas are discussed and formed, where new friendships are made, where dreams are hatched and beliefs are based. My little island getaway never disappoints me and the community that is developing there excites me. As always I can hardly wait to go back to find what else there is there to discover and explore.
I am mega-behind in blog entries from the past few weeks, so while I play catch-up and do some writing, I thought I would share some photos of 360 degree birds-eye views of the Jakartan skyline, taken at sunset from a revolving bar near my place. Enjoy!
Words are difficult to describe the luxury five star boutique hotel the Tugu, in Malang central Java. The whole hotel oozes a kind of understated opulence. I knew from the moment that I sat down in the air-conditioned car for my airport pickup that this would be the case- and not just because everyone had told me it was a great place. As I sat down for the 3-4 hour journey from Surabaya to Malang, the driver opened a wee esky with a plate of fruits and icy cold water which had been brought along for me to enjoy on the journey. It is the little touches like this that make all the difference.
When I eventually arrived from the thralls of peak-hour traffic on a Friday, I felt instantly calm. Smiling faces greeted me and led me to the room. I then had a bit of an explore of the hotel as it was quite remarkable and not like any hotel I had ever been. I realised that everywhere I looked, I was able to admire beautiful furniture and furnishings. The owner of the hotel is an avid collector of antique Chinese and Indonesian pieces which fill the walls, cabinets and even the guest rooms, bars and restaurants which are all uniquely decorated and furnished. All 49 rooms are designed with a particular theme and include different pieces of traditional Indonesian artefacts- nothing was stock-standard about this place! The delightful décor down every hallway and at every turn makes the hotel like a living museum.
This has to be one of the most interesting and luxurious hotels I have stayed in, and it had a particular character about it that added to the whole experience while staying there. Part of our stay included a tour of the premises which was both enlightening and fun. Our first stop was the Presidential Suite which featured its own spa bath, a meditation quarter and a huge 3 by 3 metre four poster bed! For a mere $1000 a night it is possible for anyone to stay in this luxury room (you don’t have to be the president!).
Something I gathered about the antique collecting owner of the Tuggu is that he is either a complete eccentric, a hopeless romantic, but probably both! I came to this conclusion as Marie and I walked down the Lovers Lane, an area of the hotel all lit up with romantic lighting and which had a wall featuring a copy of The Kiss. It is borderline tacky, but there is also something so charming that the hotel can get away with it! The alley leads out to a courtyard which looks like it has been set up to hold wedding receptions, and it has a pizzeria which sells heart shaped pizzas! The restaurant also had a Romeo and Juliette room which can be booked for private exclusive dinners with just you and your lover! Other parts of the hotel include a bar set up in 1940s Shanghai decor and collectibles, a bakery, and a huge function area featuring fountains and Javanese antique furniture and design.
The main restaurant was part Indonesian and part Asian in its menu, open 24 hours. This was where w e enjoyed a 3 course meal from entree to “grand finale” and well as delicious breakfast every day which included an amazing bread and pastry basket. Also included in the room rate was traditional Javanese high tea every 4-6pm with endless cuppas and delicio sweet and savory Javanese snacks.It is actually difficult to fault the Tuggu and anything about my experience staying there. Umm…they could have let us keep the batik slippers?
I felt completely at ease the whole 3 days. It would be difficult not to enjoy the surrounds and exceptional service (nothing was too much trouble for the staff), the homey-ness and cozy-ness among the feeling of wealth all combined to make an unforgettable long weekend. And though it wasn’t priceless, it was definitely affordable too. Our 3 night’s accommodation + Bromo Tour + Airport Transfers + 3.5 hour spa treatment + numerous beers + a 3-course meal each ended up costing less that AUD $600 in total for the two of us. Gotta love living in Asia!
In my mind, I imagined arriving at the viewpoint for watching the sun rise over Mt Bromo, and experiencing a peaceful and serene moment of reflection on the mountain top as the sun rose over a beautiful landscape. The reality of my trip to see the vista of Mt Bromo was actually much, much different. We had to head out in our jeep from the Tugu at Malang at 1:30am in order to arrive at the peak of the volcanic mountain Gunung Penanjakan (the most popular and most beautiful place to view the Bromo landscape from up high) in time for the sunrise. As we drove through the night at the most-ungodly-hour-ever- to-start-a-tour, we traversed landscapes that seemed otherworldly and it started to feel like we were driving to the end of the earth. Our lone jeep rumbled across bumpy roads and wound around mountain bends, chugging along to our viewpoint destination. The feeling of being the last people left in an empty land of solitude ended abruptly when we started climbing the mountain and found ourselves in a queue of other jeeps with passengers on other tours. When we finally stopped because we couldn’t drive any further among the masses of jeeps already parked, we found ourselves dropped off at the bottom of a hill which we then had to walk up. As we walked, we passed jeep after jeep after jeep, all identical in appearance. Each jeep had a group of passengers who were heading the same way we were, meaning that hundreds of people were jostling to get to the vantage point in time for the sunrise. It was chaotic, almost manic as motorcycles taking lazy people up to the mountain top competed for space on the road with pedestrians and other vehicles. Touts were trying to rent out warm jackets, ojek drivers were spruiking for fares, and we just did our best not to get run over and to focus on the pathway in the darkness.
We marched on, fighting the freezing early morning mountain air which chilled to the bone. When we finally got to the summit, the true realization of how many people had the same plan as we had became evident. There must have been 1000 tourists at the lookout all vying for the best position for the sunrise and for picture snapping. It was like a zoo, as everyone squashed in to find their spot to stand and wait in the cold and dark. There was a sense of excitement as everyone chattered and yabbered and locals joked and sang and drummed and played guitars and waited with anticipation for the sun to rise over the mountain. There was a bright full moon hovering in the sky above, adding another element to the spectacle.
Slowly, the sun began to rise and add light to the darkened pool below the vista. As it rose higher and the light intensified, an amazing scene below was revealed where before the night had blanketed the view. The sunburnt hues of the sunrise sky were a mere backdrop to the awe inspiring volcanic mountains. Some tall mountains in the distance were shrouded in clouds and in the immediate foreground were the calderra of four erupted volcanoes and the unmistakable Bromo which had sulphur smoke fumes rising up from inside it. As the sun reached fully above the horizon line, it shone reflections of light across the volcanoes, causing shadows to dance between the ridges of light. It was beautiful and well worth being part of a human zoo to see. It wasn't quite the spiritual and enlightening experience I had hoped for, but it was fun in a typically Indonesian way.
After the crowds dispersed a bit, Marie and I were able to take some photos from places we were not able get to when the swarms of people were around. Once we had been snap-happy and taken a zillion shots of the breathtaking view, we were ready to leave. However, it wasn't just our idea to depart at that time, and we became entwined with the mass exodus of tour groups in jeeps. There was a Jakartan style traffic jam of bumper-to-bumper jeeps winding its way down the steep slopes of the lip of the crater to the ethereal landscape we had seen from up high. Macet on the mountain- who ever would have thought? We slowly made out way down to the eery landscape made of volcanic sand (called the Sand Sea), at the base of the steaming cone of Mt Bromo.
The tour continues in Part 2 to come....
The next stage of our Mt Bromo (and surrounds) tour involved horse riding. Well, they were more like ponies than horses, and I made sure I chose the biggest one I could find to walk me up the side of the sulphur spewing Mt Bromo volcano cone. This is when Marie wussed out, so it was just me, my pony, the cute little villager who owned and led the pony and all the other people on tours riding up the dusty Mars-like terrain. It was supernatural to be riding on horseback across a volcanic crater bed, but it was also very peaceful and remarkably beautiful. I dismounted from the pony to then start a steep climb on foot up a few hundred stone steps to reach the lip of the volcano edge. Here I could look a looooong way down into the bowels of the volcano cone. Sulphurous steam was spewing out of the crater’s insides. Then, when I turned around in the opposite direction of the crater I was confronted with sweeping views of the desert plane encircled by volcanic mountain ranges. It was not like any landscape I had ever seen before. There was something almost sacred about the scene, and I could understand why a Hindu temple had been built at the foot of Mt Bromo- there was a spiritual feeling about the surrounds.
After my horse-ride back down to the base to find Marie and our driver, we regrouped and drove some more. The landscape suddenly changed from volcanic sand to dramatic grassy highlands surrounded by the peaks of neighbouring mountains. It was like being in Vienna- the dusty plain replaced by green tundra. It was here that our driver went and find a herbal remedy for Marie’s nauseous stomach- a strange grass that we had to mix with water and rub onto Marie’s belly! It had some sort of placebo effect for a while at least.
Then we continued on the journey, and before I knew it, we were no longer surrounded by the volcanoes but by a patchwork quilt of rice terraces as we headed into a green valley to view a waterfall. I’m always a bit sceptical about waterfalls, as I have been disappointed by them being not as grand as I had expected them to be when I get to them. So I didn’t have high expectations as we strolled down a path for a few kilometres through some peaceful tracks surrounded by trees and plants. First we arrived at some rapids which provided a cool reprieve from the humidity. Then after walking over a rickety bridge and up a muddy path, we arrived at the foot of a powerful waterfall which sprayed mist from even a fair distance away. A pleasant surprise!
The last part of our tour was a quick stop at a Hindu temple- with very pristine gardens- and then a pharmacy for Marie’s poor upset Bromo belly. We made it back to the Tugu tired and weary, but it was all well worth the mission for the beautiful scenes we had witnessed. And the early start and long day provided a perfect excuse to spend 3.5 hours in the spa for a scrub, massage and a flower petal bath soak!
I'm a very lucky lady, in that throughout my life I have been blessed by having amazing women always around me. From my wonderful grandmother, to my own mother, to my aunt, my sisters, many inspirational colleagues, and of course my friends. Wherever I have trooped around the world, and no matter what hurdles life has thrown me, they have always been there. In fact, I now marvel at all the amazing ladies who I have met and who have been such an enormous part of different segments of my life. My female friends just always seem to be there when I need them most, offering me support, guidance, laughter and friendship. I was reminded of just how much I love my mates this weekend when I went away on a girly retreat to "my island", where I was able to spend time with some of my newer friends from my life in Jakarta interwined with Hanoi. Our little Party of 6 comprised of two Brits, two Canadians, a Bosnian and me. Not such an unusual combination of countries really, but definitely a powerful force of intellect and character strength. Throw together women like us and it is guaranteed to be a fun time, but also one where serious and thought provoking conversation can be interwined with celebrity gossip and talk about LOVE and BOYS, and where the female bonds never waver (even if everyone didn’t even know each other so well at the beginning). The support we offer one another comes in many forms. Sometimes girly support is literally a hand to hold and guide when the ocean seas become too scary, or an arm to lead the way down a path in the dark; sometimes it is a person to talk to for late-night chats in the dark at bedtime, or someone to have one more beer with even when enough have already been drunk; it can be going on missions for cravings like mashed potato when a friend is sick, taking midnight swims even if you don’t really want to, and providing unlimited loyalty and support when tough decisions have to be made; it’s also simple being an ear to listen to; and someone to eat and laugh with when the times are tough. Most important is that the female bonds are always there, and this weekend was the perfect example of all this.
In a week where Australia has sworn in the first female PM, I can't help but wonder at a world where women ruled. I truly believe it would be a different place, one of solidarity and fairness, mixed with more emotion and less logic to make for greater compassion and understanding, combined with a lot more laughter and tears to bring true humanity to the world around us. I think a lot more wine might also be drunk! So thank you, to all the amazing, intelligent, funny, talented, beautiful, strong, and special women who are a part of my life, for helping to keep me grounded, connected and for always keeping it real. I couldn't do it without you!
It's Jakarta's 435th Anniversary- a modest number of years when compared with, say, Hanoi which this year turms 1000 years old, but still double that of Australia's young and burgeoning cities. I think it would be fair to say that Jakarta has developed a lot in the past 400-odd years. While it still has a long way to go before it could be considered a thriving metropolis comparable to Sydney or New York or Tokyo, it IS the capital of Indonesia, it DOES have a populationbetween 8-10 million people, and it IS the place that provides a link between the many different islands of Indoensia. Despite its woes (pollution, an unstable political history, lack of infrastructure- particularly transport) it actually is the central hub for everything that comprises the Indonesian nation. It is also a city of disparity in many ways. The most obvious being the extremes in wealth- poor people from rural areas live in Jakarta for work opportunities and for education, and they intermingle with those who have an ever-growing wealth and who are richer than I can ever imagine being.
A quick read of Jakarta's history shows that this disparity has always been a part of Jakartan life. Jakarta began as a trading port and was originally part of the last Javanese Hindu kingdom. It was later founded by the Muslim leader Sunan Gunugngjati, and was then fought over by the British and Dutch who colonised. When Indonesia finally gained independence after WWII, Jakarta became the capital and has since grown into the place where every island and every culture, every religion and ethnicity, and every language that is practiced and spoken throughout the Indonesian archipelego is represented. Jakarta really has grown in the past 435 years to become a very tolerant and unified society, more than any other in which I have lived.
So how does a city like Jakarta, with such a history of struggle, celebrate its birthday? By going On Sale! The Jakarta Great Sale commenced last week with a fireworks extravaganza which entailed fireworks being let off from all the city's shopping malls. The Great Sale actually involves 67 shopping centers and 1,200 other outlets across the city which are participating by slashing their prices for the next month, a bit like a birthday present to its residents (those who can afford to shop at malls, that is!). There's apparently also going to be street fairs, athletic events, live shows, culinary events and fashion parades being held in the malls as part of the celebrations. Wow, a true party for the people!
Meanwhile, the media has been taking a more reflective approach to Jakarta's anniversary. In a discussion of Jakarta's future directions, a Jakarta Globe editorial noted that "the struggle for the city over its next many birthdays will be to harness the resources, creativity and talent that have made Jakarta one of Asia’s great cities to also make it livable and sustainable". And who is it that can help to make Jakarta into such a great liveable city? Well according to the Jakarta Governor Fauzi Bowo, it is Jakarta’s residents. “Don’t just grumble... try to think of positive contributions you can make for Jakarta", he was quoted as saying. By contributions, does he mean, going shopping? It seems so. The same Governor has also been speaking this week about renewing the city’s commitment to materialize its dream of becoming a prominent shopping tourist destination in the Southeast Asian region. He says that the Jakarta Great Sale Festival is more than a birthday celebration but also an important event to boost the city’s economy, which is needed to improve the welfare of the city's population.
And so it seems that from its humble beginnings as a trade port, Jakarta has now developed into a shopping mecca, where the mega rich mall rats can shop, with their children and their kid's nanny's in tow, an can actually help to support the city by spending in a consumeristic frenzy. For the average Jakartan resident, the mega malls are places which can only be a place to aspire to buy from, even when they are on-sale. It's true that Jakarta's malls are impressive (comparable to those in Singapore, Bangkok and KL) but if these massive landmarks really are the best attraction that the city can offer as its drawcard to outside visitors, then I do wonder if that is something to be proud of for a city with a rich 435 year modern history.
I often feel like my life is more like a Hollywood movie script than real life. This was definitely the case a few weeks ago, when in the space of just one week my attendance at two very extravagant Indonesian weddings bracketed the very sad event of my 92 year old grandmother's funeral.
I flew home from Indonesia to say my goodbyes to my Nana, and to be with my family, and even though there were tears and there was sadness, there was also a sense of celebration. When someone lives such a long, fruitful life, it is a pretty good cause to celebrate, especially in these days when people die from so many causes far, far too young. My Nana left a huge legacy of family histories and stories behind, which will be difficult for any of us to even get close to replicating in our lifetimes. In her almost-century of life she was able to experience the entire world changing, living during the great 20th century of human progress which saw the overall standard of health, wealth, safety, nutrition, affordability and availability of consumer goods and services, and social conditions improve.
At the turn of the century, when my grandmother was born, most homes didn't have electricity, yet she lived to see times when the modern conveniences of telephone, electricity, flush toilet, TV, washers, dryers and amazing technologies like the internet became affordable, available and common-place. What an amazing era of life to have lived through, and what was amazing was how she really took it all in her stride. When someone lives for that many decades, through wars and depressions and eras of change and the introduction of new inventions and births and deaths...it does cause for reflection on what we can squeeze into one life, and whether the changes that lay ahead for us will be anywhere near as progressive.
My Nana’s funeral was a traditional Catholic service, steeped in rituals which were not as intimidating as they were cathartic and very moving. After the service we went to my uncle’s house and we let off purple balloons- representing my Nana's favourite colour- into the sky and watched them float into the atmosphere, and at that moment I felt a sense of sadness that I hadn’t seen more of my nana while she was alive. Then later on the night of her funeral, the whole sky turned to purple at sunset, at which time I felt a quiet sense of peace and said my final goodbyes to the amazing woman and her amazingly long life. I think she would have been happy to have seen that she managed to bring her entire family together- it was possibly the first time that the entire Samuels clan of uncles, aunts, cousins, nieces, nephews, sisters, and brothers had all got together in the one place at the same time.
It really was a whirlwind 5 days back in Australia, and it was made all the more chaotic by the two Indonesian weddings which precluded and proceeded the sad trip home. My good friend Desiree's sister Audrey was getting married to Yuri and I had been invited to attend the parties.
Weddings in Indonesia are very massive affairs. When following Javanese traditions, wedding ceremonies actually last for several days as a series of traditional and complicated rituals take place. The bride and groom traditionally dress in wedding attire and wear special ceremonial makeup and hairstyles, and a series of special ritualistic offerings and ceremonies take place in the 2 days before the wedding party. These traditional ceremonies are so detailed that they could make for an entirely separate blog entry. They involve a set series of meeting and greetings, symbolic dialogues, gift-giving, tea-drinking, food-feeding, egg-breaking, and bathing, performed in a particular way at the bride and groom’s family homes, and which represent the various stages and challenges of married life and the roles the bride and groom will take with each other once wedded.
The intricacy and importance of each stage really emphasizes what a significant milestone that marriage plays in Indonesian culture. So it comes as no surprise that the wedding reception party is such a huge event. In fact, the words that come to my mind when I think about these two wedding receptions I attended are extravagant and spectacular!
Typically in Indonesia, everyone that is even slightly acquainted with the bride and groom will be invited to the reception, and it is expected that if invited that you should attend to show that you care, respect the people involved and your relationship with them, that you honor the family and want to show your support of the newlyweds. This usually means there are a LOT of people who attend. In this case, the first wedding weekend was held at the Grand Ballroom of the Intercontinental, and there were 1000 guests in attendance, and for the second wedding at the Grand Ballroom of the Mulia Hotel, there were 3000 people! The first wedding was organised by the bride’s family, the second by the groom. Both were equally as amazing, and for me as a first time Indonesian wedding-goer, they were complete eye openers.
It was a case of learning the customs as I went along. The first wedding party had elements of Western weddings like a champaign fountain and a massive wedding cake and the bride wore a huge, white, meringue dress. The second wedding was far more traditional in the attire and the customs, and the music played which was Inodnesian gamelan. Both weddings involved a very long receiving line where all guests lined up to greet and shake hands with the bride and groom and their family. Both weddings also included speeches, and an extensive array of food served at small stalls, true feasts! Unlike Western weddings, there was not copious amounts of drinking and dancing, though there was still a very festive feel.
So many people, so much food, so much opulence and grandeur, it was a little intimidating! I was glad that I had purchased a special gown especially to wear, and that I had received some coaching from Desiree about what to expect beforehand. This still didn't prevent having a false start at the initial arrival at the reception hall to the ballroom. When being confronted with so much new-ness, it all became a bit too scary, and required an about-turn before gaining enough confidence (after a cocktail at the hotel bar!) to then try entering again.
After arriving, signing the guest book and receiving a thank-you gift, it was time to enter the grand ballroom. It seemed strange to greet the family who I had never met before, and it was all such a new experience that I was happy to follow the lead of the other guests and to go with the flow of the proceedings as they occurred. Once a decent crowd of guests had arrived, there was a grand entrance of the family who walked through the ballroom and up to the stage for speeches. Then was a queue in the receiving line to give blessings to the bride, groom and family who remained on stage. After the formalities, all the guests then ate and drank and the family of the bride and groom mingled with the crowd.
The part of the second wedding party that stood out the most (other than the sheer enormity of it!) was the beautiful traditional wedding attire worn by the bride, groom and their family members. The women wore hand-beaded kebayas and intricate hairstyles and makeup, and the men beautiful hand-made batik replete with real Javanese swords to accessorise. It was such a huge transformation in appearance, and extremely traditional. That didn’t stop the costumes being stripped-off much, much later in the night- but that is another whole story!
It is safe to say that both weddings were super fun, as well as being an interesting insight into one part of Indonesian life. The “after-parties” with the bride and groom’s friends, which I was lucky enough to be invited to attend after the rest of the guests went home, were raucous and such a contrast to the staid and formal sections of the wedding party. Despite the fun, I know for sure that there is no way I would ever want to have such an overstated and epic affair for my own wedding, and I doubt I will ever attend another wedding in my life that will be so extravagant and spectacular. I think that would require that I really was a Hollywood actress or part of a movie scene!
Enjoy these pictures of another whole world that is out there! When floating on the water and exploring the underwater paradise below, I am in my element. So beautiful and peaceful, yet so much action and activity happens under the sea. It's also great that no two visits to the same underesea places are ever the same.
Indonesians really are the ultimate in good sports. The World Cup events of the past month have meant that I've spent many nights out at various places to watch the games, among a mixed crowd of locals and other expats. It was actually been quite interesting and entertaining while watching the matches to see the various reactions to the games being played. It was during the Italy-New Zealand match at a local pub, that I actually realised it was difficult to discern which team the crowd were cheering for. I thought there must be a half NZ, half Italian crowd of supporters in the pub, which seemed plausible seeing as it was an expat hangout that Australians and Italians would be spending time at. Then, when I studied the crowd more closely I realised there were more locals than foreigners in the crowd and that they were actually cheering for whoever it was that was playing well or about to score at any given moment in the game. The locals weren't playing sides, going for favourites, rooting for the underdogs. They were just cheering out of sheer delight for whoever was scoring! This really is a true show of sportsmanship, when the end result and whoever wins doesn't really matter, and it is just about the game and the skill of the players and the performance of the winning team- whoever it may be. What a refreshing experience!
The past month of watching the Bola Piala Dunia in Jakarta has been fantastic fun and there is now a small void which the late-night games have left in my social life. And like the Indonesians, who was winning and losing from game to game changed for me as the cup evolved- once Australia was out, then it was all about the teams I had drawn in my work sweep, and then when Switzerland and Mexico lost, it was whoever my friends were from or going for, until in the end, I was barracking for whoever Paul the Octopus had decided would win...afterall, it is difficult to beat those winning odds! The competetive edge is what usually makes team sports fun, but I must say it has been refreshing to watch such an emphatic game among the laid-back locals, who I think we could all learn a lot from!
I have to say the movie Inception, which I saw this week, is one of the trippiest films I've seen since the Matrix. All of the dreams within dreams within dreams made my head spin! I went to see this awesome film at the brand spanking new cinema complex that has just opened in the just-as-new Epicentrum, a new 'lifestyle hub" which is within the compound that I live. When I walked out of the cinema and looked up at the residential towers looming over me and around at the restaurants and cafes and new gardens and pathways along the canal, I realized that I'm actually living in a city within a city within a city. Where I live is like Inception, except a city and not a dream.
So let me explain to those readers who don't live in Jakarta exactly what I mean. So, I live in a compound called Taman Rasuna which is in a suburb called Kunningan in Central Jakarta. This sounds ordinary enough, but allow me to put all this into perspective. To do that we need to look at some numbers. Living within the Taman Rasuna compound, (which comprises 19 towers and a hotel, a gym, two pools, tennis court and several shops), there are an enormous number of people. If we do a simple calculation of 19 towers, each with 31 floors, each floor with 8 apartments, and let's say three people on average per apartment then what you get is........wow, that is approximately 15,000 people- easily the population of a small Australian city.
I can actually see now how people who live in small Australian cities can live their whole lives without leaving, as I rarely leave mine. I don’t actually need to leave. The newly developed Epicentrum hub which is directly adjacent to Taman Rasuna (5 minutes walk) now has a cinema (that costs just Rp 15,000/$2 for a ticket!) a supermarket, an Elite gym, a sports pub, several restaurants and a bar. I also have lots of friends who are also my neighbours. Since the new Epicentrum has opened, my lifestyle bubble has actually shrunk from existing within my suburb of Kuningan to one that is now even smaller! I could literally survive by only having to exit the coccoon of where I live to go to work, which is still only ten mins away so barely counts.
I am adventurous though (or maybe just more the restless type!), so on weekends I do go beyond the borders of my inner city den and venture to South Jakarta and into the popular area of Kemang. Let me just say that people who live in Kemang also never leave their Kemang bubble and don't realise other parts of Jakarta actully exist. At least in the past year I have been to north Jakarta a few times to get to the marina. But when I think about it, I realise I have never been to east Jakarta or west Jakarta. Hmmm.
It is not a wonder that I find this massive city of 15 million people so easy to live in! A lot of my colleagues don't even live in Jakarta, but in the area of Greater Jakarta known as Jabotabek (which is the abbreviated form of these districts: Jakarta, Bogor, Depok, Tangerang, South Tangerang and Bekasi, all reachable by train to and from each other). Many people commute for 1-2 hours every day, which involves several forms of public transport or being stuck on the roads choked by traffic jams. Dealing with traffic is what most people living in Jakarta complain about, but it is not something that affects me so much in my cosy little zone.
I I think I actually need to snap out of my dream, and realise I don't actually live in Jakarta at all, but in Tamrasentrumingan (Taman Rasuna, Epicentrum, Kuningan), the little city within a bigger city within a humungous greater city. I never thought of myself as a small-town girl, but here, it definitely suits me!
It's quite common practice in Asia for companies to take their employees and their families away on a holiday that is fully paid for by the company. It's a kind of team building, thank-you, bonding experience, and invariably involves games, activities, karaoke and gifts at various stages of the usually well orchestrated event in which every minute is planned out. It was my experience of such outings in Vietnam and China that left me feeling less than enthusiastic about attending the recent weekend away for my work. In fact, I was dreading it, but knew I had an obligation to go especially in my first year working at my company, so I mentally prepared myself for the worst. The itinerary I was handed the day before the trip did nothing to abate my concerns. The first words written on it were:
Then there was an hour-by-hour list of activities that included a water park where we would do such activities as: “catch fishes, play tug of war, sing live music”. We would then go to the villas to play futsal and badminton, then have dinner with more quizzes, and after dinner would games such as the “unbutton the shirt game” which I was actually very intrigued about! The itinerary exhausted me to even think about it.
I was also given a screen printed white t-shirt with the company logo and Annual Outing 2010 plastered across it, and I was ordered to wear it to the coach the next day. None of this did much to elevate my worries. In the end j figured if you can't beat them, join them, and so I decided it may be better than I imagined if I just kept thinking the worst.
For me, waking up at 6am on a Saturday was already pretty bad, and meeting the mass of my white shirt wearing colleagues and their kids at the coach was also not my idea of fun. On the positive side, the sun was shining and we were going on an adventure out of Jakarta.
As per the itinerary, the first stop was a water park, which was more like a giant public pool than your typical amusement park with waterslides. This is where the planned games for the kids and families were played, with the funniest by far being Catch The Fish. This game actually involved children and adults floundering in one of the pools catching real live fish that had been released especially to be captured! There was of course too-loud music and a spot of karaoke. Myself and the other foreigner contingent managed to avoid getting too involved more than as spectators while we lounged in the sun, chatted and then read our books when the music was too loud to hear ourselves think.
After lunch, all 110 of us white-shirted clones returned to the coaches and continued onto Jambuluwuk, this place in West Java: http://www.rumahjambuluwuk.com/map.html. It was a pleasant enough journey and upon arrival at the resort I was pleasantly suprised by the lovely villa, well kept gardens and pretty surrounds. I managed to escape participating in the planned sporting events and the beautiful afternoon drew me out to the sun by the pool which was utterly relaxing. Then it was dinner time, which turned out to be mega disappointing in terms of the food, but then there were more games to help us to “relax and have fun”. I watched on, happy not to participate in having to untangle myself from another person with a tied-up rope and other such games. The night culminated in a lucky door prize draw, in which all employees had their name and a chance to win a prize, which correlated with a numbered ball which we would each draw from a box. The prizes included a printer, a mobile phone, a camera, and shopping vouchers, among other smaller things such as USB coffee cup warmer and goodie bags. After initially pulling the prize of a mobile phone (which I returned to allow someone more needy to receive), I won a gallon water bottle cooler, as you do :-)
That night after these enthralling festivities, myself and the other foreign staff all stayed up half the night playing cards and drinking beer (until the supply of about 10 beers ran out). The next day we slept-in and did some more relaxing and reading. I was very happy about this down time.
On our way back to Jakarta we stopped at quite a random place for lunch, and here the activities ranged from shopping, to fishing in a murky pond, or rolling inside a plastic ball on a lake (really!), riding in a go-kart, or just eating! Eventually we got back to Jakarta in the late afternoon, and while it was not exactly the wildest weekend of my life, it certainly was not the worst. In fact it was relaxing and quite pretty and a great chance to smell some fresh country air and to get to know some of the people who I work with a bit better. All-in-all- a successful out of Jakarta jaunt!
Today is Indonesian Independence Day, a day when the Indonesian nation celebrates 65 years of, you guessed it- indepedence- in a squall of red and white flags, parades, and marching. This is also a significant day for me, as it marks one year since I started my new job and new life in Jakarta. I’m thinking of it a little like my own personal independence day, marking the time I left the comfort of Hanoi and my friends, job and life of three years to enter the unknown. The day before Independence Day last year, I arrived in a new city of 20 million people, to start a new job in a new position and to move into an apartment and to live on my own for the first time. I remember feeling trepidation, but at the same time I was excited about the start of a new era. Now, a year along, I feel that this move was nothing but the right thing for me.
My first 12 months in Indonesia have flown by in a flash, and I've made some great new friends, had some great experiences, learnt a lot about a new culture and have learnt how to live very happily on my own as an independent and free spirit. It is also significant that I am in Bali while experiencing both my own and Indonesia's Independence Day. It was a trip to Bali in 2009 that inspired me to think about Indonesia as an option to live, and it was just 6 months later I was moving to Jakarta.
Subsequent trips to Bali have been short weekend getaways on the coast, or entirely work- related, but this present trip has been a little longer and has been purely indulgent. It has only been while on this little holiday to Bali that I really made the reconnect with the initial feelings I had when first visiting. It has been a bit like “coming home” to Ubud, the place where the moving to Indonesia seed was first planted. As I revisit Ubud now, after the initial idea has grown and eventuated, there are now even more new ideas being murmured and hopefully in the future hatched. In fact, I feel like I have come full circle on this day, as I write this after spending time with my old colleague and friend from Hanoi, the same person who encouraged and helped with organising my first trip to Bali in 2009.
It is almost like my old Hanoi connection has become entwined in my new Indonesian life completing and making whole my adjustment. It makes August 17th a day as significant to me as it is to Indonesians. Similar to the marching I have seen the students doing on the streets the past few days as they celebrate their nationhood with synchronised and uniform steps focussed on the road ahead, I continue my own personal march forward and celebrate my new Indonesian life which I also hope will continue to bring me happiness .
It's been a long time since I wrote a gig review, almost ten years in fact, but I promised a few people (that includes you Joss!) that I'd write up the Belle and Sebastian gig which was held in Jakarta recently. So here goes, let's get the rusty cogs moving:
The night (04/08/2010) began with sprinkles of rain, and walking into the Bengkel Night Park for the 'Avolution Beatfest' provided a good place to shelter from the evening shower. The venue, which is essentially a warehouse-like shed, had been transformed by the Beatfest team to create a festival ambience. Upon entering the shed we had to walk through a tunnel with a huge LCD light display and then into a foyer area that doubled as a fashion display gallery. It was all rather unexpected and I wondered where the actual stage area was, but I kept walking through the displays and gatherings of people and finally emerged from the bright, grand entrance into the darkened hall. There, I was pleasantly surprised to see that the whole room was teeming with people. And these specators actually seemed like fans of Belle and Sebastian, not your normal Jakartan clubber-scene-ster- fashionistas. Until this moment, I had been starting to wonder if Belle and Sebastian were more obscure than I thought. Every single expat friend who I had asked to accompany me to this gig had never even heard of the band (who incidentally are one of my favourite indie pop bands from waaay back!) and I had wondered what the show up for this concert would actually be. It was actually a relief to see the room packed with hoards of fans.
The Scottish popsters also didn't disappoint me on this balmy August night. Opening with ‘I’m A Cuckoo’ and followed by ‘Step Into My Office’, they then moved on to play a new number- ‘I’m Not Living in the Real World’- which was in their typical upbeat and baroque style. I was soon drawn into the show so much that I somehow lost my friends, then found myself leaving the bar area, and proceeded to immerse myself among the crowds of fans closer to the stage.
My closer vantage point allowed me to see that accompanying the multitude of Belle and Sebastian members- Stuart Murdoch (vocals), Stevie Jackson (guitar), Chris Geddes (keyboards), Richard Colburn (drums), Sarah Martin (violin), Mick Cooke (trumpet and bass) and Bobby Kildes (guitar)- on-stage was also an Indonesian string section guest-starring for the show. They added some melancholic melodies to the quirky beats and witty Belle and Sebastian lyrics for songs including ‘Sukie in the Graveyard’, ‘The Fox in the Snow’ and ‘Judy and the Dream of Horses’.
About four songs into the set, Stuart Murdoch announced he was thirsty and that he needed some whiskey. When his request was denied to him on the stage, he took matters into his own hands- and to the bar in the middle of the arena. Here, among fans reaching and grabbing and of course snapping pics on their Blackberries, Stuart took a shot of whiskey and then got a beer traveller to take with him back to the stage. These antics were soon followed by some fans being brought to the stage to dance to ‘Another Sunny Day’. The simple, saccharin sounds of Belle and Sebastian’s songs were as irresistible as always. The jangly guitars, the twee poppy tunes and the blissful melodies created a very upbeat vibe. It was a really warm, energetic atmosphere and I was truly chuffed when the locals in the crowd shouted out requests and sang along to the songs. The band ended up entertaining the audience with an 11-song set and included songs from all six of their albums, with particularly popular tunes including 'The Boy With the Arab Strap', 'Get Me Away from Here', and 'Funny Little Frog'.
The set came to what felt an abrupt ending with ‘Sleep the Clock Around’, but upon encouragement from the crowd, they came back on for a three song encore: ‘Get Me Away From Here’, ‘I'm Dying’ followed by ‘Like Dylan In The Movies’ and then ending the show with the finale of ‘Legal Man’.
After such a long time since touring and releasing new music it was a treat to be able to go to this gig on Jakarta and the band definitely didn't disappoint me, especially after all the hype I'd felt before seeing the show. I relished every moment, and it was a very enjoyable night, made even better by the free ticket I was given and the VIP access afterwards (thanks Baba!). It really was like my old gigging and reporting days! I look forward to the next Belle and Sebastian album release which will be the final step in my renewal of love for this band and also perhaps more gigging!
My most recent diving trip took me to the sleepy little town of Tulamben in Bali’s north-east. Unlike other parts of Bali which are very developed and very busy, the little village of Tulamben is still very much a quiet place that is really only frequented by divers. For those who do make the mission three hours from Denpasar to spend time in the small town are in for treat- especially if exploring the underwater world. I had two wonderful, relaxing scuba-filled days that included just about everything I love to do when travelling- scuba diving, eating, seeing the ountryside by motorbike, photographing and sunbathing.
The highlights were of course my dives. I was very lucky to discover the company "Tulamben Wreck Divers", who provided me with a 5-star experience. The very inexpensive package included gorgeous accommodation looking out across the ocean, a scooter to get from the villas to the dive shop, my own personal dive guide, as well as 5 dives at my choice of site and porters to carry the dive gear. I arrived at Tulamben from Jakarta late Friday night (or should that be early Saturday morning…3am?) and crashed in my modern, nicely decorated room. When I awoke the next morning, I was amazed to see that my room was on a lovely landing with full ocean views, and that below me was an expanse of grass, surrounded by beautiful Balinese gardens, and a pool with deck chairs. Very inviting!
I held back from immediately basking in the sun, and had a delicious, hearty breakfast which was also included in my package, before jumping on my scooter to find the dive shop a few kilometres down the road. At the dive shop I met my guide who was to accompany me for the dives in which I could negotiate the place and the time. This was all unprecedented for me, where usually dive shops shunt their customers on a boat with a group of others and you share a guided with anywhere up to 6 other divers. The other new experience for me was entering the water from the shore, the first time I have ever dived when there was no boat involved. This made the whole diving experience a piece of cake to do, and so hassle free.
I ended up doing three dives at the Liberty wreck, a ship that had been hit by torpedos from a Japanese submarine in 1942 and then beached. It only became a sunken wreck 20 years later when Mt Agung erupted and pushed the ship into the sea 30 metres from the shore. It is now a gorgeous dive site, the hull encrusted in soft and hard corals in a rainbow of colours. It is easy to penetrate the body of the wreck through large entrance points, and there were hundreds of fish of an array of varieties and sizes, making it a kaleidoscope of colour and action. Highlights were seeing a school of a few hundred jack fish swimming above me, as well as a small seahorse, a lion fish, a small school of large bump parrot fish and a very well camaflouged leaf scorpion fish.
While in Tulamben I also dived two other popular sites in the vicinity. One is called the Drop-Off, and I dived this in the evening. The Drop-Off is actually a wall which drops to over 60 metres in depth, and is a 100 metre wide slope with an array of colourful corals and a large variety of fish and critters. In this night dive my highlight was undoubtedly seeing the minute-sized pygmy seahorse, which is so well camaflouged I never would have spotted it without my guide showing me. I had no idea these creatures were so small- it was merely the size of the tip of my finger tip, about 10mm in length. We also saw a huge octopus on this dive which was bizarre to watch as it moved.
My final dive on my second day at Tulamben was the Coral Garden, a small reef with patches of coral among rocky outcrops. The small reef was colourful, and it was here that I spotted pretty blue ribbon eels, and the unique Balinese clown fish, a different colour to the regular “Nemo” variety. I was also delighted by the activity in a small cleaning station, where a grouper was being cleaned by cleaner shrimp. This was quite a shallow dive, which also meant it was almost an hour of lovely diving.
Between all my dives I had plenty of time to explore the area on motorbike, as well as to lie on a sundeck at my villa and bask in the sun under the clear, blue Bali sky. In the evening there was a delicious buffet dinner at my accommodation where I got to meet divers from all over the world who were visiting the area, like me, just to dive. I couldn’t fault the two wonderful days I had in Tulamben and it would have been impossible to leave if I wasn’t heading off to another mini adventure in Ubud.
So I left the loveliness of Tulamben for an equal, but quite different kind of loveliness in Ubud. Here, I met up with friends of mine from Hanoi who I was lucky to be able to stay with. The villa where they were staying exceeded all my expectations- typical in its Balinese gardens and bales, it was set among the rice fields of Panastenan Village in Ubud. The villa has only been newly built, and no expense was spared in any aspect of the villa. It featured two giant bedroom bales each with huge bathrooms, gorgeous wooden furniture, delicious gardens with a pool as the central feature, as well as two other smaller bales which acted as the kitchen and an entertainment area as well as a viewing platform to get a breeze while looking down across the green paddy fields. Totally luxurious! Needless to say, it was quite a difficult place to actually want to leave, and there was quite a bit of lazing by the pool and on the sofa over the two days I stayed.
We were forced to leave the villa at one stage when there was screeching chainsaws started piercing the otherwise quiet and serene surrounds. Some trees were being chopped down to clear the land for a new resort or villa. This is the problem with beautiful places like this village- they get discovered. The land neighbouring our villa had recently been acquired by a foreigner and the first stages of construction were underway.
So we were happy to retreat into Ubud for my first full day there, and this is when we headed to see a Balinese healer- an experience in itself that I will blog about separately. After my enlightening experience with the 80+ year old sage, we went for a wander through the rice fields in the gorgeous green countryside and dined at the delicious Sari Organic cafe, nestled among the fields, and which served food grown from its own organic garden. By the afternoon, the chainsaws had subsided, so we returned to the villa for some sunbathing and chillaxng. In the evening we dined at a new restaurant establishment in Ubud named Clear. This was a wonderful experience- not just for the food which had a massive range of vegetarian meals and very creative juices, but also for the lovely decor- an intricate mix of modern industrial elements blended with traditional Balinese woods. The restaurant even featured a pond inside, and is one of the few places I know in Indonesia where there is no smoking or drinking inside!
The next day was another chilled-out morning, with a quick burst of shopping in the village until were reminded it was Independence Day and that the streets were inundated with people, vehicles and general public holiday havoc. It was a relief to be getting far away from all of it for a beautiful ride through the Balinese countryside on the scooters to arrive at our destination point for rafting. Quite an adventurous activity really, we walked down a few hundred steps to the starting point of the Anyer River. From here we donned our sexy hard hats and life jackets and set off down the small rapids to cruise down the gorgeous river. A highlight of the journey was viewing some carvings that had been made in the embankment- not old relics, however they were definitely skilfully done, and went for kilometres along the river bank. There was also a beautiful waterfall and glimpses of some of the five-star boutique resorts that looks down over the river.
The three hour rafting trip was really fun and not too strenuous (I think our rafting guide did most of the work!), and at the end we earned ourselves a buffet lunch. What goes down, must go up- that meant hundred of steps to walk up to the road where we had our motorbikes. This was probably the most exhausting part of the rafting trip!
There was some time after the raftin gto relax back at the villa and to soak up as much cruisy, and soul enriching Ubud vibe as I could before having to go back to Jakarta. Even though my whole time in Bali was just four days, the two separate parts to the trip as well as doing so many things that make me so happy, I felt like I was truly rejuvenated after this trip away. It also helped knowing that I had just a 3 day working week ahead and a few more adventures on the near horizon. I can’t wait to revisit Ubud, it is such a lovely little town, and each time I go back there are changes. It is ironic that the movie Eat, Pray, Love, which has a portion of it set in Ubud, started screening in the USA this same weekend I was there. I want to experience it as much as I can before the invasion of the town begins in the inevitable aftermath of the movie. I’m not sure that Ubud is quite ready yet for such a potential influx of people- and it is all at great risk of changing what makes the place so extra, extra special.
Since I was a kid, I have imagined the wilds of Borneo as being a place of thick jungle, unusual animals in abundance and beautiful, giant flowers. In actual fact, what I have discovered, is that these wilds of Borneo from my childhood dreams don't any longer exist. Well, not in Sabah anyway. That is not to say that this region of Borneo is not beautiful or amazing- because it is. It is also organized, clean, and with friendly people. However, the wild jungles that I imagine would have been prolific before modernization and tourism, can now only really be found within Sabah with some serious searching, planning and joining a tour to trek through what remains of the protected jungle today.
Travelling through Sabah, it honestly seems like every inch of forest has been razed to grow the controversial palm oil plantations, these large hectares of land filling every space I saw as I looked outside of bus windows. The only guarantee of seeing the animals unique to the region- orangutangs and proboscis monkeys- are seen at rehabilitation centers and sanctuaries. While I did spot some while on a Kinabatangan River cruise tour, it was sad to simultaenously hear the figure that there are now only 1500 orangutangs still existing in the wild in Borneo today. Most of the remaining wilderness can now only found in protected pockets of national parks (which thankfully exist and seem to be well managed by Sabah Parks). I do hope that a trip to Sarawak in Malaysian Borneo, or even into Indonesia's Sumatra might provide me with the jungle imaginings of my mind.
My other gripes- I didn't find Sabah in anyway cheap to travel through, compared with other Asian neighbours, transport was pricey, everywhere seemed to charge foreigner entrance fees plus an extra fee for a camera, and everything seemed to be controlled by Sabah Parks and Sutera Sanctuary Lodges in all the tourist hot spots, monopolising prices on lodging and restaurants so that they made prices sky-high. An example- I had to pay close to $100 to stay in a 6-bed dormitory room when I stayed at Laban Rata (the halfway point for the Mt Kinabalu climb).
Despite the lack of real jungle vibe, and the sometimes exhorbitant transport and accommodation costs, I had an absolutely wonderful , memorable time in Sabah. I found it an easy place to get around, and I saw some beautiful rainforests and flora (including the world's biggest flower the Raffelasia), I saw gorgeous monkeys up-close and personal, I scuba dived in amazingly blue oceans with prolific amounts of colourful coral and sea life, I saw newly hatched turtles released into the wild, made some awesome new friends, AND I climbed to the summit of South-East Asia's highest mountain (one of my greatest accomplishments phyisically!).
More detailed recounts of what I did and where I went, what I saw and what I experienced will follow in days to come. This is just the teaser! My two week holiday in Sabah, Borneo was a holiday I won't forget in a hurry and I cant wait to share it and some of the 1200 pictures I took while there!
To get to the world class diving site of Sipidan Island, it is necessary to spend time in either seedy Semporna, or on a little island called Mabul. After spending just one night in the seaside port town of Semporna, I was very, very happy to leave for the much more beautiful and salubrious surrounds of Mabul Island, about 1 hour by boat from the mainland. Walking down the jetty, looking down into clear, green waters to coral and fish swimming below, and onto the yellow sandy beach of the island, the dirty and smelly Semporna became a harsh but distant memory. I was very glad to have been organized enough to book a sought-after place on the island many months before.
My week’s stay at Mabul, enjoying the new Scuba Junkies resort, was a magical holiday. Along with being able to participate in one of my favourite hobbies by scuba diving every day, I also got to meet a group of great new people, enjoy some sunshine, relax in a hammock, eat delicious food, play and party by night (what do they put in the local Tenderuire rum?), and also explore and photograph the local island life in the Mabul island village. The Hari Raya holiday fell while staying on Mabul, and it was a treat to be able to watch the locals dressed in their finest clothes as they walked up and down the beach making visits to friends and family on the auspicious and special holiday. A walk through the village led to many “Selamat Hari Raya!” greetings from excited children and teens. We also passed by the village cemetery which looked beautiful rather than eery, as it was lit up with many candles in a very festive display for the special event day.
Then there was the diving. The sites in Mabul were like the perfect contrast to the breathtaking Sipidan Island dives. Whereas Sipidan’s deep drop-off and strong currents brought the big-stuff in the big-blue in amazing abundance, Mabul’s muck dives in the sandy reef in front of the resort, and the macro-life attracted to the artificial reefs surrounding the shore, provided a different kind of diving experience which meant there was plenty of variety to the week’s diving.
The Scuba Junkie Resort was the perfect place to relax between diving dates, and I was really impressed with the management and overall running of the resort, with friendly staff, well-maintained equipment and an overall good, relaxed vibe about the place. The dive-masters were professional and informative, the accommodation was more than comfortable and very clean, and the setting was gorgeous.
Along with completing my note-able 50th logged dive while in Mabul, the other memorable moment of the week was watching the release of 122 newly hatched turtles into the sea. These tiny little baby turtles had been under close watch by the resort since their eggs had been laid in the soft sands under the jetty, and on the night of a full moon and our last night at Mabul, they were born. By releasing the newly hatched turtles into the ocean, as opposed to letting them find their own way, it increased the chances of their survival. It was so magical watching the little creatures run along the sand and into the open mouth of the sea, where awaits them many unguided and unassisted dangers. The statistics say that only 1 in 1000 baby turtles actually survives into adulthood. That is a difficult statistic to stomach, and also to even believe, after diving the area and seeing so many large turtles every day.
That special moment was such a great way to end a really fun- albeit slightly exhausting- island and diving week. It was only bearable to leave because more adventures and wildlife watching away.
More pictures can be viewed at this link:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=229560&id=517788015&l=8e7dadc578
Scuba diving is so addictive, it’s as though the oxygen in the tanks contains some kind of drug. Each dive that I do leaves me feeling excited, weary, but also wanting more. Unlike most addictions though, this one is actually good for you (though maybe not good for the hip pocket!). Not only is it an active, extreme sport, but it is also educational. The underwater world is one of intrigue and the more I learn about the critters I see, the more I am lured to return to the sea to see more. No two dives are ever the same, even at the same sites, and there is so much to think about technically when diving that it would be impossible to ever become bored. Part of the addiction is also the quest to dive the best dive sites and to be able to tick off the list of must-see underwater creatures. I used to desire to see just the big-stuff, the pelargics, that are on every divers list of must-sees, and of course it is still a thrill to see a shark or a turtle swim on by. However, as I get to be a more experienced a diver, the more I now appreciate the little stuff, the macro life, which really appeals. Diving is a bit like a game of hide and seek, the diver searching coral gardens to find a strange piece of macro life like a nudibranch or a seahorse or a camaflouged leaf scorpion fish, or to spot in the deeps a shark or a turtle or some type of rare fish or a stingray. It’s a treasure hunt in the sea, with the reward being the bragging rights or perhaps a perfect photograph. After the dive it is fun to chat with your dive buddy and dive master about what fish had been spotted, logging the dive, and then talking to new-found friends over a beer after the day’s diving is done, learning of places dived and getting ideas for new diving adventures for the future.
I’m lucky I was able to somewhat quell my addiction- or maybe it was fuelled?- when I dived for a week in Mabul and Sipidan with the appropriately named dive company Scuba Junkies. Sipidan is known as one of the top dive sites in the world and it attracts diving enthusiasts from everywhere- and for a reason. Located off the east coast of Sabah in the Celebes Sea, it is an oceanic island (it isn’t connected to the continental shelf). Formed by an extinct underwater volcano, the island is actually a 600m high pinnacle that creates a unique drop-off wall that attracts an amazing abundance of marine life. There are apparently 300 different species of fish around the reefs of Sipidan, and it is classified as one of the richest underwater ecosystems. It has an incredible number of green and hawksebill turtles as well as schooling barracuda that gather in a spectacle that is similar to that of a tornado. There are also manta rays, sharks and macro life that are simply mesmerizing. Thankfully, the Malaysian government has recognisied the beauty of this environment and is conserving the marine park by making a permit system- only 120 divers can be issued a permit per day- this exclusiveness making it an even more desirable place to dive.
I was super organised on this trip and managed to secure myself three days of diving permits for Sipidan. It was with excitement and anticipation that I awaited my Sipidan days, and I can easily say that it was worth it. Each day involved doing four 50-minute dives at the various different sites around the island. I was not disappointed by any of the dives I did, finding them all equally as exhilarating and interesting- even on a wet, rainy day. I’d never dived in such deep, blue seas, and been able to simply drift along a rock face while passing by me were sharks and turtles and the massive schools of fish that Sipidan is renowned for.
My most spectacular dive was when we swam into a school of about 1000 jack fish, which we could swim among as they swam in their formation around us. We then went down to 25 metres and out into the deep blue, where we met a huge school of barracudas which we swam alongside for about ten minutes before fighting the current back to the channel where we spotted at least 20 turtles and about 30 black tip, white tip and grey sharks. Just incredible! Another enjoyable dive was the Turtle Cave, which is a labyrinth of tunnels and chambers and where turtles that have entered have become disoriented, and drowned, the cave becoming their tomb. We only went about 15 metres into the murky depth of the cave but swimming back out from the dakness was the real treat as the absolute blueness of the water contrasted with the darkness at the cave’s mouth, to make a very picturesque scene.
Another memorable diving day was my Day 2 at Sipidan which was special for the snorkelling during a surface interval, in which I saw numerous turtles, and an amazingly huge school of bump-head parrot fish, which were gnawing and munching on the corals in the shallow reef near our boat. I saw this same school of fish later in the Hanging Garden site, which is beautiful for the soft corals that are growing along the wall and in which various critters can be spotted hiding in the coral garden. At Sipidan, there were often strong currents which made for some fun drift dives- some maybe a little too fast at times, as they caused a quickening of the heart and breath when having to fight the current's direction. I will never forget just how far I could see around me in the water due to the amazing visibility that is so rare, and just how colourful the shallow reefs were. Such a contrast between the beauty of the special underwater world. The photos barely do the dives justice, though they do give some idea of the experience. It is going to be difficult to top my Sipidan dives, for the sheer diversity which would have taken my breath away had it not have been for the tanks and regulator feeding me air. It was a true underwater eco-treasure- and I hope all my diver friends get to experience this part of the deep blue sea one day.
More pictures have been uploaded here:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=230754&id=517788015&l=9e9dbb697f
It was difficult to leave the little island of Mabul, but luckily I had another week of adventuring in store which made the 6am ferry ride, then 45 minute taxi ride to Tawau Airport somewhat bearable. It was just a 25 minute flight from Tawau to Sandakan, then another 45 minute taxi ride to the little town of Sepilok in Eastern Sabah which was my final stop on this long morning of travelling. My home for the next few days was the delicious Paganakan Dii Resort, a warm and welcoming retreat away from the main drag behind a reserve. Here I had a lovely spacious bungalow with a little balcony looking out into some trees. There were hammocks and a sun deck, and a common area with big wooden tables outside and cushions to relax on under the shade. Staying at this place also included free transport to the Orang-utan Rehabilitation Centre, and no sooner had I settled in and I found myself on the shuttle to see the afternoon orang-utan feeding session.
A lot of people just go to Sepilok to see the orang-utans in this reserve where injured and orphaned orang-utans are taken to be rehabilitated and hopefully eventually sent back out into the wild. I was pretty excited to see orang-utans in the semi-wild environment, and hoped that a lot would come out to eat and play on the platform set aside for them to eat and us tourists to view. It was therefore an absolute treat while casually walking down the pathway with one of the other guests from my accommodation, to have a little orang-utan spring out from the trees alongside the path and jump straight into the arms of the girl who I was with! She was pretty shocked as the cute, but quite big and heavy animal clung to her, drawing a crowd of other visitors who all ooohed and aaahed. It was amazing to be so close to the orang-utan, and I couldn’t resist touching the rough, orange fur and the soft pads of its hands. After a few minutes, some centre keepers marched down the path, and retrieved the rogue orang-utan, marching it off away from where we had all gathered.
This interaction alone would have satisfied my orang-utan viewing urges, but then I was able to see even more of the playful, endangered creatures. Even though it didn’t feel too different to seeing them in a zoo, there were so many orang-utans in different sizes, swinging and climbing and gorging on the fruit that had been laid out for them that it was a marvel to watch. There was even a mother with a wee little baby, clinging to her fur which he sometimes peered through, revealing a little bald head-just too cute. I was amazed when the mother swung up to a very high rope with immense agility, while the little baby clung precariously. I think she was actually showing off her bub to us all.Once the orang-utans disappeared back into the jungle reserve, we started to walk out to leave the sanctuary, when on the way out we got one last close-up viewing of an orang-utan who was chilling out on top of a shelter that we had to walk straight past. I was definitely satisfied with this orang-utan viewing experience, and it is a relief that there is a place like this that is doing such good work for the plight of the orang-utan. According to my Lonely Planet, once upon a time the orang-utans of Borneo could swing through the trees and traverse the entire island- that would be impossible now with all the palm oil plantations and so much development destroying their natural environment and that doesn’t even put poachers into the equation. It is so sad that such adorable, very human-like animals are now reduced to just 15,000 in the wild.
There was more monkey-ing around the next day, this time to visit the ridiculous looking proboscis monkeys at Labuk Bay, another sanctuary. These big-nosed, big-bellied and very horny primates are only found in Sabah. This sanctuary is a private plantation, the land set aside by the developer-owner who had a change of heart about turning the land into yet another palm oil plantation after he realised that he was destroying the natural ecosystem of the odd, pendulous-nosed and very promiscuous monkeys. The 600–hectare reserve is home to about 300 wild proboscis monkeys (know by locals as the Dutch Monkey) and the ranger of the reserve leads people around a few times a day when they feed the monkeys a special kind of pancake at different feeding stations. Included in the entry fee to the sanctuary was the chance to watch a movie between the feeding sessions. It was all about how the sanctuary was set up and was a great insight into the social order of the frisky proboscis monkeys. They live in either a family group with one male and his many wives, or in a bachelor group of males who try to steal the wives away. When male babies get old enough they are thrown out of their family group and banished to go hang with a group of bachelors, and if a bachelor falls out with his group, he might become a loner.
It was interesting to know all of this when going to the second feeding, as I could then try to identify the different social circles of the monkeys as they shyly emerged from the forest to grab a pancake and run. There was one particularly social monkey who was in fact a loner among his peers after he had lost his role as leader of a family pack. He came onto the deck where us visitors were standing and posed for photos. Apart from this clever guy, the rest of the monkeys were clearly very wild- it was a lot less staged than the orang-utan experience. The funniest thing of all to see was one of the males who, after he’d had a feed, then took advantage of some unseen flirtatious look by a female and shagged her in front of us all!
As well as the proboscis monkeys, which have such a strange appearance with their floppy, red noses and huge protruding bellies, there were also other resident monkeys playing and eating and causing havoc. The cheeky, playful macaque monkeys also share the trees with the proboscis monkeys- who are actually scared of the macaques and avoid being too close-by. The macaques also enjoy stirring tourists by trying to steal accessories such as hats and sunglasses from their unsuspecting heads. Then, there were the beautiful and gentle grey-haired silver leaf monkeys which also came down to where we were standing to get some long, green beans to eat before disappearing again into their forest home.
Other wildlife spotted during my visit to the proboscis monkey sanctuary included a few giant monitor lizards, a mud skipper (an amphibian type creature that enjoys living in the mangroves), and a beautiful hornbill which actually flew down and rested on the arm of a guy standing next to me. It was a really interesting and surprisingly enjoyable day of monkey and wildlife watching, well worth the journey and the entrance fees, and it was quite a relief to see that not every inch of Sabah and its primates has been destroyed.
More pics here:
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=5378231&l=2b835028cf&id=517788015
After seeing the orang-utans and proboscis monkeys in their semi-wild habitats, I was craving to see them in the true wild. One of the best places in Sabah to go wildlife spotting is to cruise along the Sungai Kinabatangan, a 560km long river which has along its banks some jungle which has been reserved, and where a variety of mammals and birds reside. So I booked myself on a day trip in the hopes to see some wildlife along the muddy coloured river.
Part of the day trip included a stop along the way to the Gomantong Caves. This was what I would call an interesting experience- and not necessarily one I’d recommend people bother to do. The huge limestone cave is actually home to swiftlets, whose nests are a delicacy among the locals. The nests are built by the birds using their saliva, and this is a valued ingredient in birds nest soup. Several times a year, workers who are contracted to collect the nests go inside and climb up into the caves on bamboo stick contraptions so they can capture the nests and get the prized swiftlet saliva. Apparently 1kg of swiftlet spit is worth RM2000, but this of course means that the birds are dwindling in numbers with every harvest.
At the time we went into the cave they had just finished collecting the nests, so the cave we walked into was empty of birds, but still inhabited by bats, rats and cockroaches. The place stank of animal excrement and it was muddy and dank inside. Bad smells aside, it was quite amazing to see just how large the cave was and I can imagine that when the birds are actually living inside that it would be very noisy. I enjoyed the walk forest trail to the cave more than the actual cave itself, and it was more distressing to think about the young birds losing their nests than it was an amazing place to visit.
By the early afternoon we were finally at the Kinabatangan River and ready to cruise and do some wildlife spotting. The main part of the river is very wide, but to start we veered off cruised through some narrow and quite beautiful channels which were just off the main course of the river. We saw loads of birds in the first half of the cruise- kingfishers, rhinocerous hornbill, a woodpecker, pitas…but what I really wanted to see was the primates and I was starting to worry that our luck may be out.
Our boat then steered back out onto the main river bank. First we came across some small bats sleeping in a ledge along the edge of the main river. Then we spotted a monitor lizard and at last, some playful macaques, which were actually amazing to watch as they jumped from tree to tree and almost looked like they were flying. Then in the distance we saw a huge male orangutan who was chilling out in a tree branch, and some langurs and grey leaf and red leaf monkeys. In the pictures, these primates look almost like cuddly plush toys, but we were close enough to see that they were very real, and watched them eating seeds and fruits and hanging out together in the trees.
As the boat cruise neared its end at sunset, we were then lucky to spot several families of proboscis monkeys high up in some trees, which really topped off the whole wildlife viewing experience. It was also a treat to cruise down the river with the setting sun splashing colour and beautiful reflections onto the water. All in all, it was worth the 3-hour journey each way to and from Sepilok to see some of the elusive Borneo wildlife- that is what remains of it in Sabah which is fast becoming overtaken by palm oil plantations which are pushing the wildlife further away from their natural habitats. My only disappointment was that we didn’t see the pygmy elephants which roam the Kinabatangan river banks- but I guess when it comes to seeing wildlife there are never any guarantees.
September 14, 2010 3:00pm
My arrival at the base of Kinabalu and the National Park has coincided with a thunder storm which I can see blowing in over the invisible mountain which is shrouded in mist and cloud. My image of the great Mt Kinabalu remains the one I have seen only in pictures, and all I can think is that it is ironic for something so grand to be right before my eyes yet still hidden from sight. The soft, billowy clouds are blowing in around where I stand. My hopes of walking around and exploring the Mesilau Reserve are now dampened by the rain which has started to fall. As the night fall sets in, so does the rain.
The night has become filled with synchronous bright flashes of lightning and the rumbles of thunder. The setting sun has brought with it a drop in degrees, the night one so nippy that I can see my breath in a mist when I blow out. My only wish now is the hope that the rain will get out of Nature’s system and that the morning climb will be more dry, though the unpredictable weather system at 2000 meters altitude is one not even an expert dares to forecast. The pattering rain dropping through the tall forest of trees is comforting despite the discomfort it has the potential to bring for a mountain climber come the morning time.
September 15, 2010 6:30am
With the brisk chill in the air comes morning time and my alarm sounding at 6am, and I'm reminded that I don't enjoy winters. I've been lucky having two years in a row of solid summer and my body doesn't react well to the cool air around me. I'm sure that later, after I’ve started climbing, that the sweat will be oozing from me and I will be wishing for this brisk comfort once more.
Always one to take the road less travelled and a complete sucker for punishment, I am starting from the 2km longer (but also less popular and supposedly more beautiful) Mesilau Trail. Surely 2km more than the more populous trail can’t be that bad? I hope I do not hurt too much more the next morning by taking this route.
September 15, 2010 6:30pm
I was correct in thinking that I should be worried about the extra 2km. Within ten minutes of starting my walk, I was drenched in sweat, peeling off the layers of clothes as I moved forward through the rainforest. To add insult to my sweat-laden look- my t-shirt was literally drenched- my compulsory trek guide was wearing a sweater because he felt cold, and he didn't seem to expel even a drop of sweat the whole way to the Laban Rata.
My guide and I were some of the first climbers to leave Mesilau, the 2km longer route to the top. Yep, I’m truly a total glutton for punishment. We started making good time, and I found it easier to just walk quickly up the steep steps so there wasn't time to think about any shortness of breath or tiredness in my legs. My technique became one of go up fast, then just rest for a bit before continuing. I became methodical in my quest to get to the next pondok (rest shelter), and every 0.5 km marker post along the way was a comfort as I knew I was actually progressing. It wasn't such an impossible trek, but it was challenging due to the high altitude which caused me shortness of breath when I shouldn't normally when walking along such a simple hiking trail
I made sure to stop and enjoy the scenery around me, as it was quite mystical in parts, when trees covered in green lichen and moss towered above, and sometimes across paths; wild man beard hung haphazardly from branches making it look like a scene from Lord of the Rings; there were some rushing rapids and falls; beautiful orchids; and scenic spots looking out over the clouds.
There were also many steps, all up, unrelenting, steep. I started practicing my bahasa with my guide, as Bahasa Malay and Bahasa Indonesia are almost identical. We nattered about the differences between Malaysia, Indonesia and Australia- it was a nice way to distract myself from the constant steps up the muddy trail.
It was after a lunch break that things turned a bit miserable. Down came torrential rain, hard, cold and wet. Within minutes I was soaked through, even with a raincoat. The vistas along the way now presented nothing but cloud and fog, the mountain and the views around it still an elusive mystery to me. There isn't a lot that is enjoyable about trudging along a steep, rocky and now slippery and muddy path, up a mountain, in pouring rain, wet to the bone. I’d used up all my bahasa, all I could see when I looked up through the raindrops was more steep stairs, and I really just wanted to get to the accommodation and have a hot shower. Luckily, at this moment of pure, indulgent self-pity, another climber joined me, an American lad whose company and shared discomfort in our situation (which we were actually paying to experience on our holiday!) made the last 3km bearable. Having someone to chatter away to in English, and to motivate me when I started to fade, brightened my spirits immensely.
As we arrived at the base camp Laban Rata, another teaming storm fell down on us. I was a drowned and drenched and very cold climber who arrived to register at the reception. My fingers were so numb I could barely sign my name on the guest form. I couldn’t feel my toes. My teeth were chattering, and my lips were blue. I was not warmed by the info that there was a problem with electricity and so no hot showers were available. Sigh. I was pleased however, that my plastic-bag-wrapped spare clothes had remained dry. A re-dress into the dry attire and a hot chocolate in one hand and a chocolate bar in the other, did wonders for the soul.
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It feels like a cross between a ski resort and school camp here at Laban Rata base camp. Maybe I’d describe it as a school camp at a ski resort. There are loads of climbers of all ages and nationalities, crammed into dorm rooms for the night. A buffet dinner was served at 4:30pm and I must say that I thoroughly enjoyed the lovely sunset. It was at this point that the rain stopped at last and the clouds cleared for a lovely view over the mountains and a burnt orange sky, Mt Kinabalu looming over us, and the thoughts of climbing the granite rock-face come the morning is now looming over my thoughts. I am lying here in bed, fully clothed in all my dry layers with a blanket wrapped around me. Everyone in my room has gone to sleep, and I now also have to join them, marking the day that I have gone to bed the earliest ever since I was a child- 6:30pm!
Taking a 'fade out' from my holiday recounts, I wanted to write about the Java Rockingland Festival http://www.javarockingland.com/2010/ which I attended on the weekend while it is all still fresh in my mind. Billed as the "biggest rock festival in south-east Asia", the festival was held on the appropriately named Pantai Festival grounds at Ancol in north Jakarta. The three-day festival managed to pull some big-name artists to headline on each of the nights, and the rain shamans did their job in stopping the rain that threatened to wash-out the festival.
Deciding to stay in a villa at Ancol to avoid the back and forth from central Jakarta to north Jakarta all weekend was a brilliant idea- Vikki and Antony, you two are legends. Battling Friday night's rainy-fuelled, north-bound macet was enough for me to cope with for the weekend, and staying close to the festival made it feel like a real festival holiday (minus the muddy camping).
We ended up arriving at the festival grounds on Friday evening in time to catch the tail-end of Data Rock who seemed to be having a good time jumping around on the main stage. I was happy to hear my favourite song of their's Computer Camp Love, and I loved that I could watch the whole performance while seated at the bar which was selling vodka.
Next up was the Smashing Pumpkins- a band I used to love in my teens and who I thought had faded out into obscurity until I saw their name on this festival's line-up. I must say that I was disappointed by their performance. Billy Corgan came across as arrogant, it was a self-centred set list that comprised just a couple of their famous tunes such as Ava Adore, Bullet With Butterfly Wings, and Tonight, Tonight all of which were interspersed between lengthy guitar solos that involved a jangle of noisy guitars, booming bass and heaving drums that created a wall of sound that was neither tuneful nor attention grabbingly original. There was very little audience interaction, and the crowd reacted somberly to the music being played at them, not really jumping around as one would expect from the Pumpkins. It was a short, 45 minute set that ended with Tarantular and the band members storming off the stage leaving their guitars feed-backing in their wake, as well as a load of slightly dazed and disappointed punters standing in the muddy field.
Fortunately, the bands who played on Saturday and Sunday really made up for this lacklustre Friday night headline performance. At the very least, the Smashing Pumpkins name on the line-up probably helped to bring some of the other great talents to Jakarta for this festival. After a day relaxing at our 70s style, drug-den-esque, rock- and-roll villa while the glorious sunshine filled the sky for the first time in weeks, a group of us headed back into the festival for a night of frivolity. The mud was starting to dry out, the beer was plentiful (pity it was Carslberg) and the masses were in high spirits. My night of music began with local band The S.I.G.I.T, http://thesigit.com/ who proved to be awesome rockers. I believe that one sign of a good band is when their show urges you to want to jump around like crazy even when you don't know any of the songs and have never heard the music before. Awesome!
There was a bit of general running around, the type which really only happens at a festival with a group of people in which everyone wants to be some place else, and everyone tries to stick together even though it is almost impossible in the darkness and crowds, but you try anyway, and you end up being separated, and then finding one another at the designated meeting point (the bar) to share stories of adventures had. At some stage in all of this mayhem, I managed to find myself at the stage for Arkana's performance which was a fun mix of the typical electronic rock that have made them famous at festivals over the years. Didn't bow me away, but was still enjoyable.
Next up was the headline act for the Saturday night- the Sterophonics- a band whose songs I have heard numerous times on the radio and am quite familiar with, but who I have never actually seen play live at any festival. The beauty of this festival was that it wasn't too overcrowded, and Javanese rock fans are much more subdued in their show of enthrall compared with Australians. The upside of this is that it was super easy to move through the crowd to get an almost-in-the-middle-and-front-row standing position to the stage. The downside is that the crowd seemed displeased by their lack of exuberance, which does affect the overall vibe. As we got riled up by Sterophonics who belted out 16 of their best tunes which included Have a Nice Day and Mr Writer, in an hour-and-half-long set, we were also trying to gee-up the people near us. It was somewhat amusing. The crowd of thousands did amp-up during the two-song encore. People started jumping for Bartender and the Thief and by the time the final song Dakota came on, the crowd had well and truly come alive. The Javanese rock kids sure do need some warming up!
By Sunday, exhaustion had started to set in for me, I was fading, but I decided to soldier on for what I knew was a line-up of great bands who I would regret not to see. I had a sleep in the sunshine on a deckchair by the pool, and convinced Bron to join me in Ancol for the night. She met me and in the early evening we headed back into the festival to see a beautiful sunset at the Cegarra Bar, and then intto the main festival to see The Vines. Like the Sterophonics, I don't recall ever seeing The Vines play live, even though I know they have been on the schedules for festivals I have attended. The crowd was very responsive to their garage rock band sounds, and songs I recognised included Highly Evolved, Mary Jane, Mrs Jackson, and Outathaway which they ended their show with. It was a good performance.
Then, it was a mad dash across the field to secure a good place to stand at the main stage so that we could have a good view of Wolfmother. I've seen these great Aussie rockers in small venues such as The Zoo in Brisbane, as well as at festivals including Splendour in the Grass in the year they were starting to make it big across the globe, and they are memorable performances. So it was exciting to be able to see Wolfmother perform in Indonesia and I was curious to see how they would play to the Javanese crowd (and how the punters would react). What occurred totally blew me away. It was like the weekend of rock music had totally livened the local kids into a frenzy. It seems Wolfmother have at some time emerged into the semi-mainstream outside of Australia, before my very eyes. The crowd totally rocked-out, bouncing and jumping and cheering more than at any of the other acts I had seen. The crowd sang along to all the lyrics and I really felt like I was at a real rock festival for the first time all weekend!
Andrew Rockdale belted out the tunes in his distinctive vocal sound, and the rest of the band played a tight set. I loved watching the keyboard and gutairist with his huge mass of hair playing both keys and guitar almost simultaneously. Wolfmother jumped around the stage, talked to the crowd, gave hi-fives to front row fans, and sang all their famous tunes including Dimension, White Unicorn, Pilgrim and Apple Tree. The best song was Baba O'Riley which included a goose-pimple evoking interlude of The Who's Rider in the Storm, making it a real crowd pleaser. They played a huge set, for an hour-and-a-half, closing with Joker and the Thief. I have no idea how Wolfmther (and all this great music of the festival) is accessed by so many Indonesian people (I certainly don't hear these bands played on the commercial radio stations here) but I'm guessing the age of the inernet makes everything possible.
One of the best aspects of a music festival would have to be the discovery of at least one new band. At this festival, my discovery was Mutemath http://www.mutemath.com, a band from New Orleans who I had never heard of before but who did an amazing show that intensified as the performance went on. Some research into the band the last few days has uncovered descriptions of their sound as being everything from electro-alternative-rock to psychedelic-gospel to experimental-pop. I would describe it as futuristic rock, with the musicians including a keyboardist who is also the main vocalistic who has a rich, dreamy voice. He went from sitting at his keyboard which he played Ben Folds style, to using a portable keyboard strapped to his body. I had to admire the handstand he did from the keyboard stand at one part of the performance. They also used an array of bizarre musical gizmos including a "continuum" and the use of analog synthesizers which provided an electronic edge to their raw rock sounds. The musicians swapped roles for various songs, and they did an awesome three-man drum jam using the regular drum kit and jembe drums at the very end of the performance, great stuff to see and hear. Emotive songwriting and some inspirational songs. Definitely the next album to download.
So Java Rockin'land Festival was a wonderful and fun weekend of good quality music, and at the bargain-basement priceof Rp 600,000 for the three days (about $60) it was also affordable. That said, apparently some local rock kids had to sell their beloved mobile phones to afford the ticket to go along, so it is all relative. Rock-on!
September 16, 2010
It seemed absurd when my alarm sounded at 2am, startling me out of my dorm room slumber. This is the time I'm often arriving home from a night out, having my usual Selamat Pagi/Malam joke with the doorman. Instead, I was dragging myself out of a warm bed, layering myself with a multitude of clothes- a t-shirt, cardigan, feather down puffer vet, fleece waterproof jacket, scarf, beanie and gloves- then joining an excited group of mountaineers for breakfast. By 3am, we had met our guide and begun the ascent to the Kinabalu summit Low’s Peak, head torches secured and a treacherous climb ahead. The night air was frigid at 2374 m above sea level. It didn’t take much walking up the steep steps to start to warm up however. I took a pause to catch my breath, and looked up. What a treat the clear night sky was, so many stars so clearly illuminated above us. As I looked down, the procession of people and their headlamps looked like fireflies dancing under the starry constellation filled night.
Up, up , up. I plodded along, telling myself that the remaining 3km to the summit surely would not be so bad. I am forever grateful I had a climbing companion for this journey, which became like a personal pilgrimage to the limits of my own soul. After about a 1.5 hours we reached the checkpoint of the 7km mark, which also marked the beginning of the true challenge of this climb. The rock face was so steep that we required ropes to pull ourselves up. It was at this point, in the darkness, unable to see what was further down and around me that I experienced a mild panic. What the hell was I doing this for? I must be mad! I really didn't want to die on this mountain. I must really be crazy. We were all crazy! No amount of research had mentally prepared me for this. But I kept on pulling, climbing, in many points scrambling my way up the rock.
I kept having thoughts of how I would even manage to get back down if I even made it to the top. We reached the 7.5 km mark, and I couldn't believe we had only walked 500m and still had so far to go. It was so cold, the wind whipped through us as we ascended the sheer rock. I'd look down and out into the semi-blackness below me and realize just how high we were. My legs ached, my breath was short due to the thin air at such a high altitude. Mind over body, I’d come this far, I could do this, it wasn't impossible. More ropes, more rocks, more pulling and scrambling and plodding. At 8km, my guide says there is still another 45 minutes, and I thought he must be joking. Keep going. An elderly person has been recorded doing this climb. I can do this.
The final stage to Low's Peak for sunrise was hair-raising, and in many parts I was literally crawling up on my hands and knees, feet and hands finding a foothold and something to grip, while trying to feel my fingers and toes through their numbness. Then my guide points to some people above and tells me they are at the top, I can hardly believe I made it.
It was icy cold. Every inch of my skin was covered yet still the protective sheath of fabrics did nothing to warm me. There we sat, waiting for the sun to rise. My guide tells me the sun is on holiday and I soon realize what he means. Today the sun has to fight a massive cloud before it will rise into view. Yet even though the fiery orange ball we all climbed the mountain to see was not to appear, it still brought the light of dawn, which created streaks of orange and purple rays over the mountains and through the soft mist of cloud which shrouded the peaks around us. It also made clear to us what exactly we had just achieved in the dark of night. A hostile great rocky plain of granite, with sharp crevices and nooks, making me feel somewhat pleased to have climbed in the dark when I was unaware of just how treacherous the terrain was that I was climbing. It was beautiful and glorious and overwhelmingly satisfying to see what I'd achieved. Between chattering teeth and shivering bodies, all the climbers who had reached the peak- maybe only 40 people out of the 100 who started- agreed it was a significant accomplishment.
And then, what goes up, must come down. So began the descent, moving being the best way to try to warm up. As we started walking again and with the rising sun, our bodies warmed up, layers could start to be removed. The walk down the mountain face was actually really enjoyable, the whole beauty of the vista around could be enjoyed, footholds could be seen and it was nowhere near as difficult as the night time climb had been. I freaked out when going down in the same places as I had when going up. It's just not natural to need to hold onto roped in order not to fall down. As weary legs and a tired mind soldiered on, there were a few slips when the rock had lichen on it and I didn’t watch my step, but idle chit-chat with my new friend bided the time and motivated me to continue the descent.
The arrival back at base camp Laban Rata was not as joyous as it should have been. Sure, people were pleased and excited to have made the summit, but playing on all our minds was the remaining walk down- another 5km before the day was out. After a feed and a re-pack it was 9:30am, yep that is all, and already so much accomplished in the day. My trusty walking boots that have shared many a step around the world with me also chose this moment to practically disintegrate from under me. They just couldn’t survive the remaining Kinabalu trek. So I had to make a quick purchase of what are know as kampung adidas, replicas in appearance of adidas brand trainers, but made completely from black rubber, cleats and all. It's what all the porters and guides wear, so I truly looked the part. i was lucky they had these for saale as I am not sure what footwear I would have been walking down the mountain with.
Really, the worst part of the whole trek was to come. And of course, Nature’s parting gift as we began the walk down was more rain, clouds already blown in and shrouding the mountain and making the trekker’s descent just a bit more depressing and difficult. It was tough, and slightly crazy to be retracing steps taken just half a day earlier. Going down was easier on the breath, but not all easy on the legs. It was not a simple pathway of carved-out stairs, instead every step on the trail required negotiating a foothold to step down onto in the muddy and rocky path. My cranky knees buckled with every downward movement, and as the rocky steps down continued I created a kind of crablike sideways skip to get me moving.
Chatting helped to bide the time, little stops to admire the beauty between rain-showers, down, down, more down. My legs felt like jelly and I was grateful that I was taking the shorter, easier pathway to the end Timpohon gate. Each 500m felt more like a 1 km, I could hardly believe the markers indicating the distance covered and that which was still to go.
I received a few approving comments from passing guides for my new shoes, which suprisingly were keeping my feet drier than my old trusty Keens, though the arch support had a lot to answer for. Blisters started forming on my toes. My bung knee refused to move. My hiking stick broke. I just laughed. Down, down, down.
My motivation to keep moving my jelly legs became thoughts of a hot shower and a clean change of clothes. Down, shuffle, plod, down. Mmmmm, how good would a cold beer taste? Down, down. Surely I could find somewhere to get a massage in my next stop of Poring-Poring. Crab-walk shuffle, down, down. This is like the never-ending trail, will it ever end? The marker told me that we had 2km more to go. Oooh, I am going to hot-springs if I make it to the finish. Step, shuffle, down, down. Oh, yey, there is a bit of straight! Oh, and a waterfall. Stop, look around, it really is so beautiful. Down again. Which parts of my body will hurt most in the morning? Down, down some more. Will I even be able to walk? The decline still doesn’t end. Are those people who race up and down this mountain in 3 hours even human? I think again of the 90 year-old pensioner who did this same walk. I truly believe they must just be tales.
Then, it's in sight! The Timpohon Gate. The finish line! I limp, triumphantly, but un-climatically through the exit. Hurrah! Yey! I made it! So where is the fanfare? Where were the cheers and applause? This truly was a private success, it seems.
However, I did get a pretty certificate to say I reached the peak. And my body will remind me every day for a while of what I have just done. And in my mind I'm proud, and know that we really can do anything when you put your mind to it. A congratulatory and farewell hug to my travelling companion, just as the rain once again starts to team down, and I am more than ready to just lay down and sleep.
September 17, 2010
The never ending recount of my holiday continues in the sleepy little town of Poring-Poring, which means bamboo in Bahasa Malay. The reason I took myself 45 minutes from Mt Kinabalu directly after my descent from the torturous trek was to enjoy the hot springs which the area is famous for. Readers of previous entries may remember that thoughts of these hot springs were one of my motivators getting me through the treacherous descent. So I arrived at my cute little hostel (I was the only person staying in the ten bed dorm) in the late afternoon and took myself straight to the hot springs which I imagined would be relaxing and soothing for my sore limbs.
It is quite telling that I do not even have one single picture of the hot springs. What I found was not natural springs of tranquillity, but instead a scene of man-made pools inundated with rowdy kids and huge groups of local families. There was no way I was going to try and fight my way into one of the pools and felt great disappointment that I wouldn’t get my soak in the natural spring water.
I made an inquiry. Was this THE hot springs? Were there any others? Turns out that this was them, but I could book a private room where I could fill a bath with the water (which is actually sourced from a natural sulphuric spring) but they were booked for the next hour and a half. Sigh. I figured the private bathroom was better than nothing, so I made a booking and dragged my sore legs off for an explore while I waited.
I did actually find a space of peace and beauty- a butterfly garden built to encourage the native butterflies to breed. There were some pretty flowers and even a few charming butterflies- but best of all, there were no screaming children and it was quiet. So I sat and I enjoyed the serenity and waited til my bath would be ready.
I eventually got my soak- and I actually think the lovely mineralised water did help to alleviate the pain and prevent me from having worse aches in the coming days. It was somewhat relaxing, but not at all what I had imagined I’d be doing post-climb. I think the sulphuric soak also helped me to totally relax, because after my bath I found some dinner and then completely crashed out- at 7pm (half an hour later than the night before!) and slept for about 14 hours!
The next morning the sun was shining and it was the perfect day to wander and explore the area. I walked along a rainforest canopy 30 metres above the ground through the forested parklands, and then got talking to another tourist who gave me a wonderful tip of where to go next in my Poring-Poring adventure. Turns out it was the last day that the rafflesia flowers in a nearby garden were in bloom.
The rafflesia is a very special plant. It is the world’s largest flower, which is actually a parasite. It only grows in Borneo and Sumatra, and takes 2 years to bloom from a huge bulb, and once it grows, it only lives for 6 days. It was such luck that I happened to be in the area when there flower was in bloom. So I walked to the homestead which makes it money by showing curious tourists the flowers when they are in bloom.
It wasn’t a huge garden with heaps of flowers- it was just a fenced off area in the backyard of the local family’s home. They took me through their yard and to the space where the rare rafflesia decided to grow in an almost hidden space. It really is a huge flower- a baby could easily fit inside it Anne Geddes style, and it was remarkable that the plant just grows in this space. The family don’t tend to it in any way- they don’t water it or feed it or care for it- the plant just starts as a bulb, then feeds off the bamboo and other plants around, starting its slow growth into a giant, red flower. I was shown a few bulbs and some of the flowers in mid-growth, and was reminded that the one existing rafflesia would be dead in the morning after living its short 6-days of life in bloom. Such bizarre flora and fauna in Borneo!
By early afternoon I felt like it has been worth coming to Poring-Poring, despite my initial disappointment with the hot springs. It was a very relaxing decompression after the intensity of Kinabalu, and nice little aside in the last days of my trip. This afternoon took me to the one last stop in this never-ending recount. My next entry will describe KK, my next and final destination in Sabah.
At long last we have reached the last stop in the never-ending recount of my journey through Sabah, Malaysia. It’s funny that Kota Kinabalu was where my adventures ended, as this small city is usually the first stop for many travellers. KK (as Kota Kinabalu is affectonately referred to by all) is very much a base point to jump to and from while exploring Borneo, but unlike many towns that take on this role, I feel KK was a place that would be very easy to spend a bit of time at as more than just stopover point.
I loved that it is such a small city that it was possible to walk everywhere within it with ease. KK was where I had my final holiday rejuvenation before embarking back to Jakarta and reality. I had a long massage, tried ear candling for the first time, had a manicure and pedicure and indulged in some yummy food. I even found the night-spot, an open area with live music performances and a good crowd of locals and tourists gathered for some evening drinking and fun.
It was pouring rain when I arrived on Friday afternoon, and the torrential downpour didn’t really stop until the following Saturday around midday. This gave me the perfect excuse to sit in a café and drink loads of coffee, read my novel, and people watch those around me. When the rain eventually ceased, and the sun came out, I decided I’d venture out to the islands that are easily accessed from the port area and try to get some final rays. There is a series of islands about 30 minutes by boat away, and I was curious to see how they compared with Jakarta’s Thousand Islands, so I was pleased the rain decided to stop and give me this last little adventure.
It was all very easy to organise- buy the tickets from a terminal counter and then be directed to the boats, which leave every 15-20 minutes. It was about a 30 minute boat ride across the South China Sea to the small islands off the shore of KK. First we dropped some passengers at Pulau Sapi and then it was on to Pulau Mamutik where I would disembark for the afternoon.
The small island was not crowded, and became a great spot to lie in the sun on the yellow sand and to enjoy my last day of holidays. The water was supposed to be good for snorkelling, but my explore with mask and fins did not reveal a clear sea or much to see, so I stuck to the sand and my sunning. There were a few hasty retreats to the shelters through the afternoon when short rain showers sprinkled down onto the beach, but it was mostly very chilled and relaxing.
About 4pm the boat came to pick-up passengers for the return to KK- this was a speedier boat than the one I arrived on, and in 15 minutes I was back in the town. I had enough time to drop my bags at the hotel (which I can actually recommend for a good mid-priced place- Hotel Eden), get changed and then had out to the handicraft markets to buy some souvenirs.
Whilst I was doing a spot of shopping, a monsoonal storm that had been threatening all afternoon teamed down torrential rain. It was a hard and heavy downpour, and there was nowhere to go but to stay in the shelter. The under-covered souvenir market luckily extended out into the night market, which is where fresh seafood is presented and sold by weight, then barbequed and served with lemon, chilli and salt. I figured I may as well delve out across the awnings and take a seat under the plastic tarpaulins to enjoy a feast in the relative dry. The squid and prawns I chose and devoured were really delicious- at this stage I still couldn’t bear the thought of eating fish, with my mind still thinking about the aquatic life of Sipidan. After swimming with a school of jacks, it seemed wrong to then be eating them.
The monsoon storm departed as quickly as it had arrived- as only monsoonal rains can- and I was able to walk across town again to get myself organised for imminent departure back to Jakarta. I ended up arriving at the airport 90 minutes before my flight- but it was absolutely chaotic, and it ended up taking me almost 90 minutes just to check-in. My flight was actually being called as I left the check-in counter- and I still had to go through immigration- more queues- and find my way to the departure gate. Slightly stressful! It was a relief to get onto the plane, but I couldn’t help but feel a twinge of sadness that the holiday was over and that it was time for reality to begin again. At least I could re-live the trip back in Jakarta through the stories to re-tell to my mates, the almost 2000 photos to organise and upload, and at least ten blog entries to write. It was a wonderful holiday, with new friends made, some great accomplishments achieved and some unforgettable memories acquired…and the seeds for a few future holidays planted in my traveller’s mind, that now just have to get planned! And for those of you who have followed my tales this far- thank you and congrats- it sure has been epic!
Recently, I had to get a new passport because after only four years (almost exactly) mine was full. After several trips to the very intimidating Australian Embassy in Jakarta (which to enter is not dissimilar to a jail with massive iron bars, surly security and stringent checks and searches) I now have a hefty 60-page frequent traveller passport which will hopefully last me until it expires in 2020. As I look through my old cancelled passport, I'm flooded with memories of travel experiences. In fact, they are recorded as the contents of this very blog, which began at the same time as my last passport got its first stamp. Since that time in 2006, the pages of my old passport became filled with a variety of stamps and visas, and are an interesting tome to my travels and adventures. The contents of my old cancelled passport are:
4 X Thailand entry-exit stamps
1 X Cambodian visa and entry-exit stamps
1 X UK Ancestral visa
1 X Indian visa
6 X Malaysia entry-exit stamps
1 X Canadian entry-exit stamps
1 X Nepal visa and stamps
6 x Vietnam visas
11 X Vietnam entry-exit stamps
1 X Laos visa and stamps
2 X Singapore entry-exit stamps
3 X Indonesian visas
7 X Indonesian exit-entry stamps
1 X Indonesian entry-re-entry permit
Looking at this list, I have to say that I swear my job is legitimate and I get up to no funny business in SE Asia. It makes me realise that I haven't really seen many places outside of Asia in recent times. So my new mission is to fill my new passport with stamps and visas from new places, especially from outside of Asia. However, this old passport is evidence of the affinity I have with this region of the world, and it is telling that my new passport's first marks are my Indonesian visa and entry-re-entry permit, and Malaysian entry-exit stamps. I guess I know which roads I like to travel.
Last month when I went to my little piece of Paradise, Pulau Macan, I experimented with some underwater macro photography while snorkelling in the gorgeous water. Enjoy these shots!
It can be really tough living as an expat sometimes. Especially in a big bustling city like Jakarta. Sometimes, an expat just needs to get away, to escape the urban life and retreat to Bali. The time had come for a little break in Ubud, and after a snap decision about dates and a quick booking of flights and accommodation online, the weekend away was set. How I love the internet, and how I cannot even begin to imagine a life without it- especially when it comes to booking sneaky holidays.
The day of departure came- I had to sneak out of work early on a Friday afternoon, after which ensued a frantic dash home to get my luggage and an absolute mission to get through the crazy Friday afternoon macet to the airport. A mild panic in this time about not having the correct ID on me to check-in kept the already stressful journey to get to the airport on-time even more exciting. Somehow, I made it on time, was allowed to check-in with my residence card (yep, I forgot my passport), found my travel buddy at Starbucks (of course) and then proceeded to wait in the departure gate for over an hour as our flight was delayed. Oh the irony. Oh, Air Asia.
The late departure, along with an hour's time difference, meant a much later arrival at Bali than we would have liked. We then had to battle with the taxi queue and taxi touts and drive an hour north to get to our destination- Ubud. We really had no idea where we were being taken to, and we presumed that showing the taxi driver the GPS map of the destination with directions and that several clarifications of understanding would mean we would get to where we wanted to be. When the taxi pulled into the flashy hotel, and we were greeted by the hotel staff, we couldn't believe what a nice place we had found online. Sipping our wecome drinks, we continued to marvel at the lovely surrounds and felt anticipation in getting checked in and settled. It was all too good to be true. The driver had taken us to the Maya Resort, a gorgeous 5 -star establishment 15 minutes away from where we were meant to be- The Anahata.
Slightly embarrassing- but soooo not our fault- we called our actual accommodation, got picked up and finally, at 10:30pm- we arrived! And we were hungry, and thirsty, and most of our Friday night had been stolen from us by transport companies who couldn't seem to do their jobs on this evening. Luckily, the Anahata staff were happy to srcounge us some food, they had wine available at the bar, and our villa was amazing! The resort is actually a series of villas nestled and perched in various positions along a valley that involve going up and down many series of steps to get to. This makes for seclusion and privacy, but also very sore calves.
Luckily our villa was only down one series of unevenly constructed, mossy steps.Our villa comprised three stories altogether. Lucky me won the toin coss and got the princess master bedroom which was up one set of winding stairs. There was a lounge/kitch/dining/balcony area on the middle entrance level, and then another big bedroom and a twin room down the second winding staircase. The lower level opened out into a little courtyard with our very own plunge pool! In the morning, this was the perfect place for doing some sunbaking with the lush, rainforest surrounds encircling the space, bringing a real sense of being among nature and peace and quiet. This reflection and sunning all took place after a long, G&T infused breakfast- hey, we were on HOLIDAYS!-
We decided it was a great idea to hire a scooter to ride into town, and to attempt something touristy. The hotel was able to organise a manual scooter for us, and it was after a rather halting start (while geting used to driving a motorbike with gears) that we zoomed off into the rice fields for a little Ubud driving advetnure. Every trip we made on the scooter really was a bit of an adventure. The main roads were winding, and bumpy and hilly. Then there was the small, narrow road which we had to navigate through rice fields so as to find the Sari Organic Cafe for some lunch. This was a hair-rasing journey, and at every second I thought we might end up in the rice paddy, saturated messes and a broken motorbike in tow- but the driving skills were excellent udner this difficult terrain and we made it in one piece. It was worth the mission to enjoy some delicious organic food made from veggies in the garden out the back of the cafe, with views out of the rice fields. Traversing back after lunch through the narrow road didn't seem quite as scary, but then we missed a turn and took the very scenic route back to the Anahata. Thank goodness for Blackberries with GPS.
In the afternoon I enjoyed a massage from the hotel spa as the sun set, and the heat of the day became slightly cooler as the night set in. This evening we had planned an extremely indulgent and decadent evening at the Mozaic restuarant www.mozaic-bali.com/ This was never going to be a cheap night out, and I think once that this kind of decision has been made and acknowledged, it is easy just to go all out and to enjoy. This is exactly what we did. We arrived before our reservation to enjoy some bubbles and a cocktail (ginger long island and a cucumber and dill martini- both delish) before we were seated and able to start the main prize for the night- the 8-course degustation dinner dedicated to the white truffle from Italy. If I didn't know much abot the white truffle before this dinner, I certainly can say I do now. Over the 8 courses (all paired with wines, of course) I tasted the rare white truffle shaved, liquidized, and foamed. I ate it with fish as sauce, inside croutons, and even as a sweet canneloni for the desert. The chef came and showed us the whte truffle we would be eating, and taught us that the smell is what makes it special and differentiated it from the black truffle which is more flavourful. It was really fun to see what each course would look and taste like- especially as we both had to change the set menu to meet our different dietary requests. It was a filling meal, but not too much. The wines were nice, but not enjoyed to the point of drunkeness. It was all very classy, very delicious and really, something you just have to do once and enjoy.
Sunday morning brought a massive shower of rain over Ubud. Great opportunity to sleep-in and chill out in our relaxing surrounds. By midday the rain had cleared, and the humidity was drenching us without even moving. It was time for another motorbike ride through the countryside, and this time the mission was to go to the Monkey Forest Park. This was about my 6th time to Ubud, but never had I been to this religious spot due to my immense fear of being scratched and given Rabies by an overly aggressive, naughty monkey, of the likes which are allowed to roam freely through the park. But I was going to attempt bravery and I was going to walk through the famous Ubud grounds. I lasted all of five minutes, when after I saw several monkeys grabbing onto tourists legs and jumping up onto their arms, that I was too freaked out and we had to leave. I was envious of the big sticks the banana seller ladies were weilding at the entrance- next time I will take one of those with me for defence (yes, I am an animal loving pacifist- monkeys bring out another side of me which is why I avoid going near them).
That mission aborted, what better to do than get some lunch to end our brief but lovely Bali weekend. We went to Clear, a place that looks lovey on the outside, has great design and decor on the inside, some delicious food and drink concepts, but which was somewhat lacking in the service department. Maybe we were just spoilt after the Mozaic experience the night before, and were expecting too much? We ended up making a quick departure to avond an impending rainstorm...we made it back to the hotel in just enough time to avoid being drenched, and to get ourselves organised for departure. It was all rather uneventful getting to the airport, and then just downright boring as we had to queue for ages to check-in and then bide time while waiting for our once-again delayed flight. Such bad luck! But we found some beer, and eventually we boarded, and so ended the wonderful weekend getaway (until next time...).
18 August, 2010
I pondered, as I zipped through the traffic on my scooter with green rice paddy fields whooshing past me, what exactly it was that I would say when I arrived at the home of famous Balinese healer Tjokorda Gede Rai. I didn't quite know how to explain what had brought me to his healing pavilion, and what it was I wanted to have healed without it seeming trivial. I’d been told stories about this 80+ year old sage and his treatments which involved the likes of Tjokorda chopping up some herbs from his garden, swilling them in his mouth then, carefully spitting them over different parts of the client’s face, or waving incense and chanting, among many other traditional healing techniques. These stories made me interested and I really wanted to meet him so I could experience for myself a visit with a trippy-dippy-hocus-pocus type spiritual healer. It was really my curiosity that wanted to see this skilled healer in action, as I really had nothing wrong with me. But perhaps there was something that I seeking? More balance perhaps? Or maybe he could give me an answer to something about my life that I couldn’t otherwise figure out? Maybe this man could help with some of my internal struggles?
I put these thoughts aside when we arrived at the sage's home. I felt a little nervous, not really knowing what to expect from the experience. Upon guidance from our Balinese friend, I dutifully donned my sarong and sash, the required attire for any Balinese spiritual event, and my friend and I allowed our Balinese companion and guide to lead the way. I was told that we may have to wait for our turn, as Tjokorda is a very well-known and well-ultised by Balinese people. On auspicious days, he may have many clients waiting to meet with him. On this day, we were lucky- there were no dates circled on the calendar pinned to the wall, and there was just us waiting to be “healed”. After about 5 minutes, waiting with some apprehension, Tjokorda walked out to the platform where we were sitting, a wide and cheeky smile filling his small face. His slight frame made him seem fragile yet his aura oozed strength, compassion and wisdom. The creases on his face betrayed his age, but the youthful vibrancy about him made him clearly younger in spirit than his actual living years.
He sat on his chair and asked me how he could help. I looked at him sheepishly, shy in his presence and a bit unsure of what to say. Just as I was about to request a check-up, he beckoned me to sit in front of him with my legs outstretched in front of me. As I sat there, feeling a little vulnerable as my friends looked on curiously, his fingers ran over my scalp, intuitively feeling the bumps and shapes of my skull, prodding in certain places, poking in others, searching answers to my unspoken questions. He pinched meridien spots in my ears and softly touched my face. When he squeezed one spot in my ear I had to stifle a yelp. "Did that hurt?" he asked. Yes! I exclaimed. “Hmmmm…”, he said in reply. Then he told me to lie down on a rattan mat on the ground, face up. The torture continued as Tjokorda pressed a wooden reflexology stick onto my toes. Certain places on certain toes made me squeal and scrunch my face in pain, and in some places I couldn’t help but to yelp as the prods were excruciating, while other spots that he poked on my feet and toes were fine. This all seemed a little amusing to our healer man, the corners of his mouth creased up in a held back smile when I would yelp or wince in pain at his prods.
A few more mmmms and aaaaahs, and pokes and prods, before Tjokorda proclaimed my prognosis. “Your stomach, good. Your liver, good. Your gall bladder, lungs, blood, all good. You are healthy”, he proclaims. “But”, he said as he pressed one of the most painful places on my second toe, “your heart is not good”. Oh….I thought. Have I got a blocked artery or something? Heart attack- here I come. But before my thoughts could get too carried away he continued. “Your heart, it is blocked, you cannot love, you are not open to love”. Oh, I thought again.
“Why?” he questions me. Ummm well, I guess I was hurt in the past, maybe I am protecting myself. “Hmmm”, he says again and looks me in the eye. “It's okay, we can fix this! We just need to do a number 6 and a number 8”. Before I even had time to wonder what he meant, he called his assistant over, who stood over me at my feet. I didn't know where to look- at his face, straight up, close my eyes? The assistant was waving his arms, writing symbols in the air over me, motioning and doing a lot of triangle shaped gestures over his crotch area and chest area and then waving his hands over mine. The whole time I was trying to suppress my giggles and avoid eye contact with my friends who were watching close by.
After the healer was done Tjokoda inspected my face again, did some more mmmms and then told his assistant to also do a number 4. Number 4 was more of the same but with more of the gestures circling the breast area. To be honest, I found it very hard not to fall into a fit of laughter due to my amusement at the whole situation. I still couldn't look at the healer or at my friends out of risk of losing it completely. I was relieved when this third set of gesticulations was completed.
Tjokorda them came back to my feet with his prodding stick. He prodded my middle toe which had been agonizing to touch before. “Does it hurt”, he asked? Um, no not at all, slightly disbelieving it myself. “And here?”,he asked, as he poked my fourth toe intensely. Um, no, there is no pain now. “And here?” Nope, it doesn't hurt anymore.
“Great!” He exclaimed. “You are cured!” Cured from what, I was still not entirely sure. My figurative heart blockage, I suppose. “Now”, he said, as though he could read my mind (and it wouldn't suprise me if he could!) “Now, you will be very open in the heart and many people are going to like you and be attracted to you. You be patient and they will come, so many in fact will come, that you will have to make a choice. And when you decide, only give half your heart, and keep the other half for you. When your two half hearts join, then you will make a whole.”
“See!” He says pointing to my eyes. “Already she is happier, her face and smile is bigger.” I looked at my friends for confirmation that this man wasn't a complete kook. Its true, my friend said. Your eyes have a sparkle, a glow. You be careful, my friend warned me. Last time I brought someone here she asked Tjokoda to find her a boyfriend, and a few months later she is in now in love and pregnant. Tjokoda chuckled and beamed his smile. I was still perplexed with the whole scenario that had occurred but decided to keep an open mind. I do believe in energy healing, in crafts such as reiki, and this wasn't all that much different. But maybe his work was just providing me with something to believe in, to hold onto.
I can't say whether I feel more or less balanced than before this visit, but it was certainly an experience and its difficult to question the talents of a man who for decades has been healing Balinese people of their ailments, as well as training healers worldwide in the traditions of the Balinese sacred texts which are handed down through generations. None of it came cheap- he accepts donations, the typical price for a foreigner being about Rp 300,000 (over USD$30), making it either an expensive experience or a totally worthwhile expense. I guess I just have to wait and see what miracles he might have worked on me and my heart, and be patient while I wait for the flocks of suitors to start knocking down my door.
Watch this space for the prologue to this true story which I wrote in August....
I’m so pleased that I was able to squeeze one last trip to Pulau Macan into my 2010 Year of Indulgence and Pleasure. Not my last holiday for the year, this would however be my last chance in the year to bliss out on the piece of paradise I think of as home away from home from Jakarta. While it was raining and storming all weekend in Jakarta, a mere 90 minutes boat ride away and I was lying sanguine in a driftwood hut with my lover, looking out just metres away onto crystal clear blue-green seas and beautiful sunshine, and snorkelling and swimming, as well as sunbaking, and sipping beers all weekend. It was a really quiet weekend compared to othere recent trips to the little island which have been alcohol fuelled gatherings with a big group of friends. Visiting the island on this weekend was just 16 guests, all couples, which made for a lovely, peaceful, relaxing and romantic time away. Very rejuvenating and completely blissful....I’m grateful to be one of the lucky somebodies who has to do this hard part of living.
When a planned long-weekend getaway to Manila fell-through at the last minute, an opening appeared for me to explore a little more of the Indonesian archipelago, something that so far in the past 15 months hasn’t extended too much beyond Java and Bali. Having a four-day planned break provided a good opportunity to do some more diving before the year’s end. Indonesia has many world-class diving sites, but one region that is particularly famous is Bunaken Island near Manado in North Sulawesi. Sulawesi is one of the big islands in the north-east of the Indonesian island chain, and the Celebes Sea is the home of some great diving. So some hasty research, the rustling up of a friend and fellow diver, a few inquiry emails and then before I knew it, I was reserving my accommodation/dive package and booking flights. Just like that, thanks to the marvel of the internet, I was going on a sneaky holiday to Bunaken.
The whole long weekend started raucously, as all good ones should. With a Saturday morning flight at 5am, it seemed like a really good idea to just stay up on Friday night and head straight to the airport (as opposed to attempting just a few hours sleep). Aided by beer and wine over dinner with friends at my apartment, we left for the airport at about 3am, somewhat drunk and overly tired. By the time we boarded our Lion Air flight in Jakarta, it didn’t matter that there was absolutely zero leg room , extremely upright seats and no cabin service for the flight- we just passed out for the three hour journey to Manado.
Upon arrival at the small airport, we were greeted by a member of staff of the Two Fish resort, who drove us 45 minutes through the streets of the small city Manado. First impressions were that it was a green place, and that Christianity was apparently more prolific in this region than Islam, evidenced by the churches that seemed even more numerous than mosques in Java.
We soon arrived at the jetty, had a quick coffee refuel, and then set off on a 40 minute boat ride to Bunaken Island. Despite the hangovers starting to creep in, and the overwhelming tiredness, the boat ride was enjoyable, with the sun warming us as we sat at the bow, and the scenes around us really quite spectacular. As is the case in most parts of Indonesia, volcanic mountains loomed, dominating the landscape and reminding me that I live in the heart of the Ring of Fire.
We arrived at our final destination at lunchtime, giving us some time to unpack, settle-in, fill our bellies and then go on an afternoon dive. Most of the dives on Bunaken Island are wall dives, and the first Bunaken dive site was one called Sachiko. It was great to see a small reef shark, a banded sea snake, a turtle and plenty of beautiful neon soft corals with nudibranches galore and a big school of jack fish on the first dive of the weekend.
Back at the resort, starting from the late afternoon, the local staff (a very musically talented group of lads), started a small party at the resort bar. Not really ever needing much of an excuse, the reason they gave for drinking the lager, Guiness, Coca-cola and Palm Wine concoction was to christen the new boat the resort had acquired. It became quite the singalong, with a mixture of popular local and English songs being played on guitar and accompanied by the most awesome makeshift double-bass which also became percussion. My night ended early, and I was lulled to sleep by the sometimes quite excited singing and much laughter.
In keeping with the motto of any good dive holiday- Sleep, Eat, Dive- I awoke from a good, much-needed slumber, ate a quick breakfast and then head out for a morning of diving. Critters and creatures spotted among the walls of gorgeous soft and hard corals and underwater gardens included scorpion leaf fish, nudibranches, a very cool electric clam, a big moray eel and more turtles.
One theme that seemed common with diving in Bunaken is that there can be some really strong, crazy and unpredictable currents. These I never find fun to dive with, as you end up using so much energy and air that the dive is short and there is too much concentration required to really enjoy the site. However, on one of the dives where we did experience strong, changing currents, some people spotted a dugong (sea cow) and I saw the biggest Napoleon Wrasse ever! These sightings did make it worthwhile.
After lunch, it was time for a lovely, relaxing afternoon drift dive, and then at dusk we went out again to go Mandarin Fish spotting. These gorgeous coloured fish are quite the exhibitionists, and every night at dusk, male and female pairs of the fish emerge from their rocks where they hide during the day to share a “romantic moment”. So down we went to about 10 metres to sit and wait out the moment the fish would emerge. It required patience- staying buoyant for 20 minutes in front of the rock where the fish hide out) but it was well worth the wait to see the special, colourful display.
The third day of Sleep, Eat, Dive also involved four dives, two in the morning, then one in the afternoon, which was one of the most peaceful and relaxing dives I have done. A really gentle current, a beautiful wall with many things to see, and then a 5 metre safety stop in which the sunlight was shining down on the shallow reef in such a beautiful way that it looked like my image of heaven.
We hit the water again, for our fourth dive of the day and the last Bunaken dive of the weekend, for a night dive experience. I always enjoy night dives, often finding them more relaxing than regular dives despite the darkness and other dangers that go with it. I think it is because there is less of the vastness of a daytime dive, instead being forced to focus on wherever the torch beam lights. It is like a game of spotter, looking in little nooks and crannies that you never observe in a daytime dive, hoping to find a crab, lobster, jelly fish, cuttle fish or some other strange nocturnal creature. I love seeing the little pairs of glowing eyes from critters hiding in the rocks. My guide and I managed to spot a lobster, some decorator crabs, a sponge crab, blue spotted stingray and a sea snake.
It was party time again on this night- more of the same tunes being sung, a big group of divers joining in the singalongs, and it even led to dancing and then literally drinking the bar dry of beer. Lots of fun!
Our final day on Bunaken was a non-diving/flying day, and it was perfect that there was a torrential downpour of rain to hide away from in a hammock under the shelter, and to enjoy a massage and go for a little snorkel. The journey back to Manado airport was event free, and we killed time waiting to board the flight by enjoying a 90 minute reflexology massage- divine!
This little taste-test getaway to Sulawesi has inspired me to go back to do some more dives, and to also explore more of the region. There would be some excellent hikes up the many volcanic mountains and the whole place seemed very relaxed and friendly, the perfect place to return to and to really spend more time than I had the chance to in this little sample.
As 2010 almost draws to a close, I feel it is time for me to take stock of what amazingness I’ve actually experienced this year. It has been a whirlwind, a frenzy of holidays with friends, with time seemingly zooming by at an inexplicable pace. When I sat on the hilltop at Woodford on January 1 and watched the first sunrise of the new year as it emerged over the Glasshouse Mountains, I promised myself one thing for the year ahead: 2010 would be the year for me to completely indulge myself in doing whatever I pleased, and to take as many holidays as possible. As I think back on the year that has been, I can safely say that this year, I definitely kept to my resolution.
It all started the third weekend of January when I went to Jogjakarta to check out Boroburdur with Natasa and Maja, my two fun-loving Bosnian friends. Then, it was celebrating my birthday at the end of the month with my good Jakartan friends on Tiger Island. The following weekend, the first weekend of February, saw me getaway to Bangkok for 48 hours where I stayed with Abs and was reunited with Shawnus for a mad-capped Thai-style festival and way too much BKK fun. Then, during Chinese New Year in mid-February, I met up with Sally and Julianne in Penang, Malaysia for four ridiculously crazy days and nights involving booze, jellyfish and beaches. In March it was time to head back to Thailand, this time to Khao Lak near Phuket for four fabulously fun and sunny days on the beach and snorkelling with Sally and Caggie. In April I enjoyed a few weekends in Jakarta, one weekend on Tiger Island with Nicola, then it was off to Singapore for Easter, staying with Sally and hanging out with Kate and Vaughan. In May, I had the pleasure of Marie visiting, so every weekend I was off somewhere new with her- chilling on Tiger Island, diving in the Gili Islands and Lombok, luxuriating in the Tugu Hotel in Malang and feeling the chill at Mt Bromo. In June I managed to sneak in another Tiger Island getaway with the girls Nat, Lisa, Nic, and Tanya while Lesley was in town, and during the in-Jakarta weekends experienced two magnificent Indonesian weddings.
The year’s halfway point was sad, when in early July I had to return home to Australia for my nana’s funeral, and while not a fun trip, I am glad that I made it there to be with all the clan. At the end of July there was another little Tiger Island venture with my gin & tonic loving friends Antony, Vikki, Lyle, Bron, Katie and Elton at the Sunset Hut. In August I had a work retreat which allowed a little explore of south-east Java, then mid-August I went down to Bali for some diving in Tulamben and some chilling, eating, rafting and spiritual enlightenment with Brett in Ubud. The start of September was my big trip to Borneo- a week of diving in Mabul and Sipidan where Barry came on the scene, then dry-land explorations through Sabah and the big Mt Kinabalu climb. October was mostly an in-Jakarta month, with just a trip to Tiger Island for Bronwyn’s birthday. November made up for it though when Anthony and I went to Ubud in Bali for a decadent weekend away, and I got a final trip to Tiger Island in for a romantic getaway. The year of travel then culminated in a four day diving expedition to Bunaken in North Sulawesi with my new friend Katie. The year is still not over though, and this weekend I head off home until the new year in what will be a jam-packed 18 days with family and friends on the Gold Coast, Brisbane and Woodford back to where it all started 12 months ago. Phew!
So many trips, so much fun, and so many friendships forged. I want to express my deepest gratitude to all the friends who made all these trips so memorable and full of laughter. Every one of the experiences of this year have influenced and affected me and have contributed to my learning once more exactly what it is that makes me happy and contented. Travelling and exploring, being in the company of good friends, eating, drinking, scuba diving and of course, sunshine, make me into a very smiling and super Sim. I can only hope that 2011 will be as amazing as this year has been, though I do suspect that I will be more financially focused and a little less footloose and fancy free...though not too much, or I won’t have anything to blog about!
I was all set to write my first entry of 2011, recapping some of my adventures at home in Australia over Christmas and New Year, and then disaster struck Brisbane. Writing about all the fun and frivolity now seems out of place compared to the scope of the tragedy and devastation that is going on in my home city. It was a wet and muddy week at Woodford where I saw in the new year, but little did I know that the muddy madness of the Folk Festival would be a walk in the park when compared to what is now facing Brisbanites- including many of my good friends and family members- as they clean up from the 2011 Brisbane floods. Seeing the images of streets turned to rivers, cars replaced by boats cruising the “streets” which are now waterways, knowing the despair people have to face as they come back to their evacuated homes and businesses to mop up their possessions after the deluge- it is heartbreaking. It is also comforting to see the Aussie spirit stay alive too. It puts a smile on my face when the reporters ask residents in voxpops on the streets how they are faring, and the reply inevitably seems to involve something to do with being happy there is beer or alcohol, it is great to see people who are unaffected personally helping complete strangers by volunteering their help, and the huge sense of community as neighbourhoods band together to assist each other in the time of need, it makes me proud to be a Queenslander. The Emergency Services, police force, army, have all been doing a marvellous job and I’ve been impressed by the leadership shown by Anna Bligh in this critical time. It has been mesmerising and disturbing to watch the news on the television in Jakarta, and to see familiar streets and landmarks, places I have been, walked down, lived to be deluged by murky, brown water. It has been surreal, and I wish I was closer to home to really put myself to use in a practical way. Instead all I have is my words on this web page, and I can send hope, and positive energy, and loving thoughts to everyone affected. Life goes on, as will my regular rantings on this blog, if nothing else the floods have provided me with perspective and reminded me of all that I have to be grateful for in my life. Stay strong people of Queensland!
Arriving Surabaya
That's the problem with traveling so much, so often. Elements of the experience become arduous, parts of it are unmemorable, so much so that not even returning to a particular place and reliving the journey sparks any kind of memory of originally doing it. As I take my flight to Surabaya, I am simply going through the motions without even thinking.
The plane I'm on lands. In the whole two hour flight I haven't really registered my fellow passengers, their faces are never absorbed enough to even be remembered should I see them again. As we taxi down the runway, the crackly announcement from the pilot begins over the loudspeaker, and I think how these rushed, obligatory speeches are never clear enough to properly understand. I try fishing for semblance of familiar words among the garbled and memorized speech, told by rote and completely toneless. The sound quality is so unclear that I can’t tell if it is English or Indonesian so I completely tune out and stare dazedly out the window at the grey runway and grey clouds. The outside temperature, the local time, they are announced to my ears but not really heard.
Now there is the mad scramble of passengers as they rush to stand and get their bags from the lockers overhead. There is impatient queuing, everyone eager to leave the coffin-like confines of the plane. There is jostling and intercepting as the plane empties of passengers who move down the aisle, I manage to sneakily weave into the departing stream of people.
Exiting the plane, pushing into a cloud of hot air that momentarily suffocates, my body adjusts from an extreme of cold to the more comfortable warmth. Clunking down the metallic stairs, gripping the rail determinedly, attempting not to fall down the steep decline. The bitumen of the runway is hot underfoot. The terminal building is familiar in its similarity to all the others. Non-descript, completely functional in its bland concrete walls and tiled floors which gleam from a recent polish, looking worn from age despite the attempt at cleanliness. Over-taking dawdlers, tired parents with toddlers in tow, inefficient travellers clumsily walking with trolley bags which they walk like the bag is a dog on a leash.
The arrivals hall. Have I really been here before? Nothing is recognizable, but what is there to recognize? Featureless people crowding around the conveyer belt pushing to grab their luggage as it chugs past in a suitcase train, backpack and parcel carriages. Porters eagerly wait in the wings trying to catch the eye of a customer to serve.
The backpacking couple, we had shared eye contact and a smile in the boarding hall, but now when we see each other we avert the glance, each on our own separate journeys in the same place in time, but that is all. I surreptitiously watch them from the corner of my eye, their height and white skins standing out in the chocolate colored crowd. They are probably British, maybe German. They hold the weary bodies of people who have been on the road for a while. They stand beside each other, interacting minimally, as people do who have been companions for a long time. They have no need for conversation, they stand and wait in a stupefied silence. No words are even exchanged as one of them gets their bags from the carrousel, another holds the sall bags and minds their piece of ground, barely even a glance is given to the other as the guy helps his girlfriend load up her pack, he heaves on his own, they walk away casually, comfortable in each other’s company and knowing the way of the road. They disappear to the outside world, bringing an end to my story-creating game, one I play to bide my time.
Then my turn comes, trying to grab my bag, searching for a space to squeeze between the people. Their wall is impenetrable, I am forced to go to the end of the conveyer line to scoop up my suitcase before it enters the tunnel for another round.
I brace myself for the onslaught, it is always the same. First the wall of relatives and friends desperately seeking the familiar face, then the signboard carrying hotel drivers, trying to catch your eye, wondering, hoping that their person to meet is I. Then out from the safety of the passengers-only arrivals gate zone and into the onslaught of taxi touts who wave tickets, shout deals, poke and prod and point, the confusion of noise, I seek out a sign for the taxi queue, knowing what I have to do, head down with eyes glancing up, trying to appear knowing and confident, my body saying that I can figure this out on my own. Still there is no memory of being in this particular place though I know I have been here and done this another time before.
The taxi queue is found, I’m now sitting in the backseat of a car and the familiar conversation sequence begins. I could be in any taxi in any city, except the scenery outside is not the same. My masterful use of the taxi driver bahasa and the driver presumes I am fluent, he continues to speak, reverting to a local Javanese dialect, the dialogue he is speaking fast, my travel fuzzy mind is struggling to catch the key words, to piece together comprehensible sentences in which to respond. What language are you speaking? I can recognise what he asks. Yours, I reply with a chuckle.
The check- in routine commences, its objective fulfilled without any incident, so mundane not even an element of it is worth being recalled and retold. For some moments during the exchange with the clerk, two worlds collide, I will never know the young boy's life as he will never understand mine. Passport sir-madam, credit card for mini bar sir-madam, sign here please sir-madam. He knows everything about me, and nothing at all, at the same time.
Lobby painted cream, brass gleaming, fake indoor plants, boring prints in plain colours of uninspiring landscape scenes. Swipe card, enter room. Miniature toiletries, unoriginal room service menu, patternless bed cover, a place that is clean and functional but offers nothing to differentiate the room from all the rest. I know my neighbour next door, above, every room on every floor will be equally as bland, hundreds of uninspired and unoriginal rooms squashed together to house those on the road for a night or a few. So what next? The night looms ahead, a single soul in a soulless city.
Departing Surabaya (at least trying to)
I schlepp out to the airport, a 45 minute journey down the highway, in drizzling rain and a descending darkness. The city flashes past, I'm watching from the taxi window. I keep spoptting glamorous, smiling women selling shampoo on giant billboards that blend into the cityscape of functional, concrete buildings, neon-lit strip malls and the expanse of bitumen road. The taxi rushes down the highway, zips through the toll gates and I arrive back at the airport from which I'd only arrived the night before.
I'm Bali-bound, for work again, but the thought of returning to island paradise makes the trip less of a drag.
I join the queue to check-in, on-time and ready to fly. Sorry madam. All flights tonight are cancelled. The pilot has decided the ash from Bromo, you know Bromo bu,? The big volcano, well it is not safe so tonight no fly to Bali. I stare at the clerk, I'm impassive, my face must be expressionless. Yes madam but you can fly to Jakarta and from there to Bali, you will get to Denpasar tonight, 1am. I continue to stare, I'm incredulous. And confused. So, you are saying I can fly an hour north to Jakarta, but not 45 mins south to Bali? That makes no sense. It’s truly absurd. Yes madam, tonight no flight to Bali, the ash, as you know. I try to make some sense from these words, find the logic. So madam you go over there to customer service, change your flight, oke? Thank you bu, sorry bu, it's the pilot’s decision bu.
I queue up in a confused line of other bemused people, barely believing the journey which I was now being forced to embark. I arrive at the front of the customer service line, pass over my ticket. Sorry madam, the flight to Jakarta is full. Tonight you stay in hotel, you can fly to Bali 5am tomorrow. Hotel? I ask. Yes madam, we take you there soon. Flight tomorrow? Yes madam, flight definitely go tomorrow. But how do you know there will be no more ash tomorrow. Yes madam definitely plane fly in morning. Really? You promise? Yes, promise. 5am? Yes Ibu. I quickly do the maths...that means I will have to be at the airport by 4am, will have to leave the hotel at 3am...gulp, that is EARLY! But there is no choice.
I wait where I'm directed to sit with other confused and dejected travellers, then 45 minutes later I allow myself to be herded onto a bus, and it seems like groundhog day, hurtling back down the highway, this time in a bus, through the drizzling rain, past the now familiar Surabaya scenery, heading to a hotel for a few hours sleep. I wonder if it will be the same hotel where I stayed the night before.
We eventually pull off the road and into a hotel entrance. It’s the Marriott. Nice. Very nice, actually. I’m checked into a beautiful room, with nice decor, a huge marble bathroom, tasteful decor on the wall. I note that the closest I will get to Bali tonight is the Balinese appearing bas relief hung from the wall. I decide that if you can’t beat them, join them. I draw a bath, and soak, then snuggle into crispy white sheets and think life ain't so bad really. I remember it's my birthday, perhaps this turn of events a little treat. Life is always full of surprises, not always so bad. The city of Surabaya keeps me for another night and I’m grateful and hopeful and then startled, as the shrill 3am wake-up call grabs me from my slumber and I’m on the way back out again to the airport to try departing yet again.
Finally, two days off, and the opportunity arose to spend the first day free after working 10 days straight by joining my colleagues on a bicycle ride through Ubud. Whilst I dreamt of a sleep-in, the idea of some adventure while in Ubud was too great of a lure.
So at 7:45am I was collected in a mini bus of 10 other cyclists from aged 6 onwards to proper grown ups, on the way to Mt Kintamani. We were taken to a beautiful vantage point, to consume views of the amazing volcanic mountain range while feasting on banana pancakes and fruit. Once we had fuelled up our bodies, we hopped back into the mini bus and drove to the starting point for the ride. A quick experiment riding different bikes to choose the one that felt right for the trip, then a practice ride around a dirt track, and we were away on our decline glide down the mountain towards Ubud town.
We cruised down through lush rice fields, some in the midst of harvest. Our convoy passed through small villages and many temples secured in traditional family compounds. We nearly missed hitting chickens which appeared from nowhere to suddenly cross the road (why?), and weaved around disinterested dogs lazily lying in the middle of the space we wanted to ride through. We rode by small congregations of gossiping women, who skilfully balanced baskets laden with offerings, and by small groups of men who sat and smoked as they watched over the village life. Small kids called out from places, unseen, just their voices heard chanting “Hello mister! Hello, hello!” as we whooshed by. These excited cries are something which I will never tire of hearing.
We had a few pit-stops along the way- to view rattan weaving in a family compound and to marvel at a huge 500 year old banyan tree. We rode mostly down, with a few steep ups that required a bit of a push to achieve, but overall it was all very pleasant, scenic, easy and fun. When the 25km ride was over, there was an option to ride 10 km more- uphill- or to catch a ride in the car to the end point restaurant. I couldn’t resist the challenge (hey, isn't this what my rpm/spin classes three times a week prepares me for?), so I rode with just a couple of the others in our group. At first, it was easy, then the gradual incline became steeper, and steeper, and the road seemed to stretch forever, and it was hot and I was sweaty, but I was determined to finish so I continued, and I did. The icy cold towel given to me at the end was heaven and the traditional Balinese meal which came at the final stage of the trip was nirvana- deliciously prepared food that tasted divine.
At the end of the lunch, our bodies were weary, but the day was declared a success by our group. We confirmed that the bike tour is definitely a great way to see the Balinese countryside while getting out and about and also learning some of the local customs and culture. I’d definitely recommend the trip to others and maybe even do it again myself.
Last night, I went on a date! I was promised this date would be “something different” with a focus on being “up close and personal in a much more intimate setting” As a Jakartan resident, I was even dedicated to and promised a rendition of “All Night”. This premise got me excited- how could it not?! I was off to see iconic Janet Jackson perform, not at a stadium venue, but a convention centre, and she was promising to exclusively perform 35 of her most popular songs from her CD Number Ones, with the set list voted for by her fans. The idea was that the real JJ would be “revealed’, it would be “more intimate, and more personal than ever before”. I was warned not expect “special effects” and to just “look at Janet”. Unfortunately, the “Just Janet” I was served up somehow missed the mark, and it seems JJ is still stuck in the early 90s. The somewhat stripped back performance was lacking to the point of being under-produced- especially for the ticket price tag which really only middle class Indonesians could even consider buying. From strange costumes, boring choreography and lip synced songs, my first date with Janet didn't really seem to come together.
Even though I'm not at all the biggest fan, I was still looking forward to seeing JJ perform in an intimate venue, and whilst I wasn't expecting the same bells and whistles of a huge stadium gig, I did hope to see some original dance to go along with the old-school tunes. Whilst there was no wardrobe malfunction, I think there was more than enough wardrobe disfunction to make up for it. There were four wardrobe changes in total, each revealing something a little more absurd and unflattering than the other. The show began with her opening costume of a robotic/aeronautic scuba type suit which looked unbearably hot and uncomfortable to be dancing in, and I don’t think Janet quite pulled off the space age look that made her boobs look they were about to explode out at any time, and which did nothing to flatter her not-as-svelte-as-it-used-to-be figure.
After she belted out a few tunes with including What Have You Done For Me Lately? she changed into a very long, almost tarty, baby pink dress. While she was off stage with ehr wardrobe, on stage was a projection of video clips of Janet from various tv and films from her childhood through to adult life. It was very odd and incongruent with getting the audience riled up. After her energetic start, when JJ reappeared she sat on a stool, legs firmly crossed, to sing a few ballads.
Then another interlude, this time the long filler involved pictures of Janet being projected on the big screen . The montage progressed throughout her career- photo shoots and magazine covers, most quite raunchy, all very self indulgent. It is clear when comparing that the slender Janet of her youth is not quite the same as her 40 something self- though you have to admire a woman who can move like she does at her age and still not even puff through being short of breath…or is that because she was voicing over her own voice??
During the next medley of singles, JJ sported a black, sequenned pants number with tails. This is when the show really started to feel more amateur Rock Eistedford than professional performance. I didn't realize intimate meant no frills and no thrills. We were treated to unoriginal choreography involving a troupe of 6 guys and gals who writhed and wriggled and feigned flirting and other off-putting behaviour as part of a sequence that seemed to be the same accompaniment for every song.
The lip syncing which was tolerable at first became a little unbearable, and things became borderline weird when deceased brother Michael Jackson’s voice suddenly sounded over the amplifier for the rendition of Rhythm Nation. This song was actually a treat, when the choreography copied that of the old skool video clip, and was mucy more sharp and convincing.
The self-indulgent performance then continued for the “encore”. Does it count when the encore is planned all the way down to the choreography? The outfits for this set looked the most comfy, with everyone on stage wearing white fisherman pants and t-shirts. These flowy clothes were perhaps the most flattering of all the ones JJ gathered from grandma’s costume case. Thelast two congs also ensured her show went for 2 hours total- gotta give the fans their money's worth!
Overall, my thoughts are that the show was no frills and low production (and borderline amateurish). There is no doubt JJ was putting in her all, but it may just be that Janet is past her use-by date.
No, this is not an entry about cricket....although there was one of the big cricket matches on while I was there recently. Gosh, it is hard to believe I was in Sri Lanka a week and a half ago- it has been so busy since my return to Jakarta I haven't had time to digest my holiday- let alone write about it and look at the pictures.
At last I have found a small window of time to reflect (so much for it being the year of reflection and growth- how do I have time for either of these tasks!?). Upon my reflection, I think it is noteable that my trip to Sri Lanka fulfilled four of the items on my List of 33 Things to Do While 33. They are:
1. Visit a new country
2. Go on a yoga retreat holiday
3. Go without the Internet for two weeks, to properly switch off
4. Buy my first investment property
(the 4th is actually incidental and just happened while doing the former 3...the settlement on my property went through while in Sri Lanka (the new country) at Ulpotha (the yoga retreat), and without the Internet.)
I'm sure some of you are wondering how I went without my gadgets and technology....it was actually withdrawal-free. How did I do it? I got so completely away from it all and was in a place so isolated that there is no mobile phone and Internet to access. Complete success on all counts!
My experience at the Ulpotha yoga retreat in Sri Lanka was such an amazing one that I have a lot to share, so I have decided I will blog separate entries, many which were written while I was on holiday, in a series of small essays and photos with comments that I think will tell the story. I hope that in this way you will enjoy reliving my adventure as much as I loved having it!
Journalled on 12/2/11
Even if I intend to, I never seem to get around to doing too much research about a new place I am travelling to, and usually find myself trying to devour the contents of the Lonely Planet on the plane to my destination, and then just kind of figuring things out when I arrive. There are advantages to this, because it can avoid having too many preconceived ideas and sidesteps any potential disappointment. So I arrived in Sri Lanka with some tips from different friends, a Lonely Planet I hadn't yet read (the edition which was published in 1989, so it was really out of date anyway), and a sense of curiosity about what the small, cricket-loving, spicy island might offer me.
For some reason I'd decided it was probably going to be a bit like a combination of Indonesia and India. As far as first impressions go, I think this is actually a good comparison. Extremes in wealth and poverty, loads of spicy curries and tropical fruits, laid-back, smiling yet industrious locals, beautiful outfits- I don't think there is any national dress more elegant than that of the sari, and I love watching women in this region go about their day in flowing, soft swathes of colorful cloth wrapped skillfully around their bodies to reveal just the righ amount of flesh in the correct places.
Sri Lanka is less frentic than India but equally as colourful, and about, if not more, laid-back than Indonesia. My first thoughts of Sri Lanka involved erratic roads; people who seem to have an innate sense of wanting to serve- a Javanese trait that definitely is Lankan too; diversity- in the drive from the airport I spotted mosques, Hindu temples, churches and statues of Buddha; a sense of survival, of battling on in the face of adversity, especially in the wake of natural disasters and war.
It's only been a day, and perhaps some incorrect assumptions have been drawn, admittedly mostly from the confines of the Galle Face Hotel, one of Sri lanka's oldest. The beautiful colonial building, and the lovely, relaxing sunndeck looking out over the sea and a clear blue sky and sunshine, led to very decadent day of sunbaking, drinking Lion Beer by the pool and Capirinhas on the Checkerboard at sunset, and really just getting into holiday mode.
I wrote this little story the first night I was in Sri Lanka on my i-Phone, and I just found it, forgetting altogether that I wrote it. I'm still not sure if it is cheesy, or an interesting read, but I will share it anyway. It has been too long between posts.
Journalled 13/2/2011
Under the stars and a half moon night, sitting at a table on grass overlooking the sea of crashing waves, I gorged. I was eating the buffet, a concept that I am less fond of these days because of my desire to want to try everything which means that I end up eating tonnes more than I need. But I'm on holidays, and the food looks great, loads of fresh salads and some traditional dishes, and the whole buffet is under $15.
I'm alone, which I don't really mind. I used to always hate dining on my own, but I'm more used to it now. It can be fun to people-watch, and eavesdrop on neighbouring tables….The couple to my left are on a first date, it seems to be going well. How could it not with such lovely surrounds, and yummy food? It’s exciting to watch the two in the beginning throws of the first stages of building love….There's a family, on holidays together and having a good time, relaxed banter takes place as they settle in….The couple to my right have little say, and probably years of history. They are expats on a Saturday night out. They look bored and their disinterest in each other is defined by the big gap between each of their chairs. She sucks a long draw of smoke from her cigarette. He stares ahead at something or someone….I’m drawn to a glamorous couple who touch each other affectionately, he brushes his hand over her thigh, she touches his arm then squeezes his elbow, and they smile, lightly touching arms and legs and smile at each other intimately as they eat and chat, relaxed and at ease, happy and unaware as a firefly dances around them…I wonder if the two guys sitting side by side and sharing a bottle of wine with their food are a couple or just friends, and I think about how silly that turn of phrase actually is. “Just friends”, when friendship is the most vital aspect of it all….Here we all sit, numerous tables of people with different purposes and paths, each table is one of friends of differing levels and stages of friendship, and each table never interacts with one another. The restaurant concept is actually quite odd!
I wonder what they think of me, on my own, and whether they have built a story of where I'm from, what I do, why I'm here. Maybe I've not even been noticed at all, ambiguous as well as anonymous. If any of us reached out, we might make a new friend, enliven our nights, enrich each other for a moment, but sometime along the line this social protocol became out of order behaviour.
So here I am, Saturday night and my first day in Sri Lanka, my first date with the country, wide eyed and open minded, flirting with the thoughts and ideas of what is to come in my next stage of the adventure. It could be the start of my own love story, a romance with a new place, a discovery of a new dream destination, or the building of big, new dreams. Only my destiny knows for now.
At Ulpotha, I fall asleep to the endless night time jungle sounds, cicadas screeching, squirrels and monkeys rustling in trees, geckos calling their sharp shrill sound, trees sighing as a breeze blows through the branches. I wake up to birdsong, sharp, soft, melodic, rhythmic. The sun rays fall, a dappled light through my mosquito net curtain as I lay on a mattress on a rocky shelf.
Later this day after a yoga class, some herbal tea and Sri Lankan style breakfast I find myself drawn to another rocky ledge. After a cool dip in the freshwater tank, I clamber up some granite boulders and sunbake like a sun lusty lizard. Only the sounds of nature surround me. It truly is serenity.
Everyone is languid from the heat. Not even the trees can be bothered moving in the feathery soft breeze. The swing bed is swaying gently by the water where little insects skip over the glassy surface, making small ripples which radiate out to nothing. A midggie nips, the skin is instantly but half-heartedly slapped.
As night falls, the setting sun makes dusty pink clouds that ripple and whisp in the blue, an almost silence descends with the sunlight, a 3/4 moon rises higher in the sky, appearing from it's daytime hiding spot.
One of the highlights of the stay at Ulpotha was the delicious, healthy, fresh, vegan food. Each morning would start in the Kade Hut, for a fresh coconut water or ayurvedic herbal tea and some fruit like fresh banana or papaya with lime. The, after an invigorating yoga class, we'd return to the hut for a more substantial breakfast. Every morning it would be a suprise to peer into the breakfast basket to see what freshly made treat would be inside. Some days would be sweet rice pancake filled with a coconut and brown sugary filling, other days it miht be a steamed rice bun or a savory delight. We'd snack and chat and sip our drinks, easily whiling away the morning.
Lunchtime was always a feast, shared under the pavilion which was also the social centre of the village. The food would be laid out on banana leaves and in clay bowls, and we would help ourselves to the delicious, natural fresh vegetables, organic red rice grown in the village, tropical fruits from the gardens, and fresh fruit juice and tea infusions. The finale of every lunchtime was home made bean curd, layered with palm syrup- very naughty and oh so yummy! This was the only non-vegan item on the menu but was irrestistable to try.
Afternoon tea was also always a highhlight, and it was impossible not to pop into the Kade Hut on the way to evening yoga for a Sri Lankan snack (or three).
Dinner was also served in the same place, and would be slightly lighter than the lunchtime feast. Coconut featured in many meals every day, either sweetened or with chilli, lime and salt as a sambal to add to other foods. There would also be coconut milk curries and coconut water was abundant. I can see how Sri Lanka values its coconuts so much they even have a government minister who is dedicated to the industry of coconuts!
It was such a treat to be able to enjoy such tasty and healthy vegan meals for the entire week, and to learn some new dishes to try in my own kitchen in Jakarta. I think Ulpotha should make its own cookbook of special recipes, as the combinations of flavours are unique to the Sri Lankan cuisine, and the all-vegan versions of traditional dishes made the meals very special, and ones I'd love to replicate.
Leading on from yesterday's post about the food on my Sri Lankan retreat...I was so curious about what was involved in making the dishes we devoured- not just the ingredients, but the techniques, and how things were made using traditional methods without electricity, that I sat for a few hours one morning in the kitchen and watched the proceedings for the lunch food preparations take place. It was fascinating to see the preparation process, and to see the efficiency with which the kitchen was run. Some days up to 30+ mouths were sufficiently fed, it is quite remarkable.
Coconut is a key ingredient, and watching how quickly a lime, chilli and coconut sambal was made from opening the coconut with a cleaver, then dssicating it to using a mortar and pesel to combine the ingredients was interesting to see. The tools used in the kictchen are very traditional- a coconut dessicating grinder, mortar and pesel, and an amazing kife/slicing contraption that I know I'd slice my own finger off with if I even attempted to use. Remarkably, everything was cooked over a wood-fired stove, and just 3 staff members were involved.
A well-run and well-oiled machine, the Ulpotha kitchen was a delight to sit in and to watch as food was transformed into the delicious goodness we enjoyed for lunch and dinner every day.
In fulfilling a childhood dream to one day live in a treehouse, I couldn't resist the opportunity to spend the night in a real one while at Ulpotha.
After some deciding on the best time to have my treehouse sleepover, I chose the night after the full moon, when it would still be bright in the sky, providing natural light in the night. The time came at around 10pm on this chosen night to start my adventure, when I set off into the bushes with my head torch firmly attached and I began my climbing mission.
I took hold of the slightly rickety, wooden ladder, and looked up high and beyond tree branches and into an unknown darkness. I gripped the rail, and I climbed up, up, up three flights of wooden ladder rungs which I never thought would take me to the top, winding my way up the tree trunk to the hut built in the tree branches of an ancient tree growing by the lake.
An already lit lantern and a mosquito bedded mattress awaited me at my night time base. I'd been reassured monkeys wouldn't find me there, these being my greatest fear....others were concerned that I may be invaded by a potential intrusion of snakes and other creepy-crawlies. How would I fend for myself alone and up so high, they asked? People thought I was brave to be sleeping in the treehouse solo. It seems our childhood fears are still as alive in us as are our fantasies.
So in the treehouse hut, I lay, in candle-lit light, enveloped by a moon-filled sky and enclosed by the shimmering mosquito net, up high in the branches of a tree, on my own. It was actually quite amazing.
The noises were different, the jungle sounds were even louder up above. I'm not even sure what made all the high pitched sounds, perhaps a variety of species were involved in natter, much like a room full of humans at a party. Frogs croaking, crickets chirping, birds squawking, squirrels squeaking, and who knows what else making chitter-chatter-chirping in the tree tops. I definitely heard the flap of a bat, which was slightly freaky! Despite the noises, it was calm and still, yet there was a profound sense of energy that I felt while up high. I'm not sure if it's because I was so much closer to the action of the night in my treehouse vantage point or if the height combined with the closeness to the nearby lake created more of a vibe. It was easy to sleep, and I was out, before my light.
Amid colorful dreams that became a freebie during my stay at Ulpotha, I awoke with the chime of bells from the monastery, carried across the lake to my leafy branches. I looked out through the wooden slats of the hut, and spotted the setting moon framed by the tree branches. It was a huge, orange- hued ball that slowly fell below the horizon. With the dawn came a shift in jungle sounds. Melodic birdsong, chirps and cheeps sounded from all directions around me. I could see the lake which had been hidden in the night, it had a glassy stillness in the morning hour, its surface yet unbroken in the new day.
It was such a wonderful, unique experience to sleep overnight in the treehouse, and I can now say that I have fulfilled a childhood fantasy to be queen of my own skyward castle in the trees.
We were greeted by a smiling saffron robed monk who excitedly pointed out the places of interest, the old ancient ruins of a hermitage dating back from 2-9 Centuries AD. The half remains of a stupa, an altar, it's difficult to image how the sandstone bricks once would have appeared. We are shown a reclining Buddha carved into ancient stone, now preserved behind lock and key. Not much remains of the place it once would have been.
The whole area is surrounded by boulders, some with caves where hermits once would have lived. The space as a busy hermitage in its hey-day would have been much different, though the powerful energy of the space still remains. We climbed up the boulders and looked out beyond to distant mountains. I can envisage a meditative monk taking some time out on this spot, looking down on other monks who might have wandered the land and its beautiful surrounds.
I’m struck by the enormity of the boulders which have retained so much heat from the sunny day that they also radiate energy that oozes from their pores and onto my skin as I lay down my hands upon them.
We climb to the highest point of the rocky ridge to watch a luminous orange ball setting in the sky before us, while simultaneously rising in the sky a luminous full moon rises behind us. It's a magical moment, whilst the setting sun and full moon are not such rare occasions to enjoy, seeing both moving together in their whole forms at the same time certainly is something special to behold. It is truly an ancient space with ancient stories, and ancient energy that it still bestows.
There was an air of restlessness at Ulpotha halfway through the second week….it was time for a day trip beyond the beautiful surrounds of the lake and boulders. Votes were taken and the decision was made to go to the beach. Sri Lanka’s rickety roads mean that even the shortest of journeys becomes an epic adventure, and it took us over three hours bumpity bumping along before we got to the beach, Alankuda. It was well worth the trip- the expanse of the sea, a beautiful pool and scorching sun awaited us, a different kind of natural beauty to the jungle, but just the kind that I adore. As well as being able to relax on the sand under the sun, and to even enjoy a beer (it almost felt naughty delighting in one after the detox of the previous ten days!), we also had the chance to go on a dolphin spotting expedition on a boat in the sea.
We clambered onto boats in small groups, life jackets firmly attached, and began the mission to find dolphins. We went out far to sea and were circling over the waves for a long time, to the point that we all thought we wouldn’t be seeing any dolphins on this day. Then, suddenly, a huge pod of dolphins appeared near our boat and proceeded to playfully swim around the boat, obviously showing off their twists and turns as they jumped in and out of the ocean and swam in formations around us. It was truly spectacular to see. There is just something about dolphins that is mesmerising and powerful.
Our afternoon at Alankuda was somewhat less exciting, involving a lot of lying about, reading books and even a spot of yoga at sunset- which must be one of the most beautiful I have seen in a really long time. Sri Lanka really can put on a show!
After feasting on dinner, it was time to return to the other piece of paradise, weary bodies piled into the vans and we made our way back over the bumps and dips, winding back to the peacefulness and serenity of Ulpotha.
Look up at the boulders surrounding the lake at Ulpotha, and teetering on the edge of the hilltop is a boulder that looks so precariously balanced, that it's like a whoosh of wind might topple it down below its perch to the lake below. It beckons the curious, and the chance to walk up to this landmark was too good to refuse. It required an early morning get-up, in the darkness, with flashlights, and then a speedy, somewhat strenuous walk up through a trail I’d never be able to find again without a guide. In plenty of time for sunrise, as the dawn was breaking, lightening the darkness just a little bit, we reached the peak and the infamous rock named after Uncle Willy who first broke the trail we had just climbed. The day was clear, the sky was expansive and blue, and our chattering stopped as the sun slowly rose over the horizon. The energising and recharging nature of the sunrise- something I don’t see enough of in an average year- was unforgettable, magical. A spiritual silence overcame our small group as we watched the sun and felt is powerful orange orb rising to fill the day with its light.
This place is about a ten minute walk from the main village of Ulpotha and is aptly named- yes, there are monkeys who like to hang out in this spot….but it also made some of those in our group want to behave like monkeys too. It seemed irresistible for our teacher to want to hold some yoga poses in precarious places as the sun set behind. Meanwhile, I felt the urge to just lay on the warm granite boulders and feel the energy of the day fill me as the sky slowly darkened in the dusk.
Ulpotha village is without electricity or mobile phone reception, but despite this, it almost became necessary to whip out the Blackberry in order to keep track of things. Between yoga sessions, mini excusrions, meal times and massages, ayurveda treatments were also scheduled every day. Such busy days of loveliness! Ayurveda is an ancient form of natural therapy and there is a clinic in the village which provides treatments to Ulpotha guests. This traditional form of medicine is holistic, with healing therapies involving diet and lifetsyle changes as well as the drinking and inhaling of of elixirs and herbs, oil massages and steam treatments. The ayurvedic detox and cleanse was an interesting practice to participate in. I really enjoyed the massages and the traditional sauna and steam bath. The Ulpotha "spa" treatments were all completely natural, and involved using herbs from the local jungle and even the sauna and steam bath were built using local woods/bamboo and heated with fire. I did feel cleansed after my series of ayurvedic treatments, and it inspired me to try and keep my body in a state of detox rather than to retox. I will take away with me some of the ayurvedic theories- it is difficult to deny the benefits of a mode of healing that has been in practice for so many thousands of years. Taking part in the tratments at Ulpotha also benefitted the local community, with all proceeds going to running a small, local clinic for local people.
My best discovery this year has been Kotok Island, another of the islands in the Thousand Islands chain near Jakarta. Regular readers of this blog will know how much I love Tiger Island as a little weekend getaway, and my love for that little escape still remains. I even spent my easter break on my regular beautiful island getaway so close to Jakarta. But Kotok Island I have grown to like because it is a great base for diving in the National Park- and it is even possible to go out to the island, do two dives and head back to Jakarta in the same day! Much more relaxing is actually staying on the island and diving both days of the weekend, but I like having a day tip option for those times when I need a diving fix.
Kotok is nowhere near as well maintained as Tiger Island- in fact it is a big pity that the island is quite run-down- the accommodation is old, the jetty is in disrepair (actually to the point of being dangerous) and the food is not really that great (no excuses for this really). However, these little quirks aside, the diving around Kotok is actually pretty good. It won’t blow your mind, but the dives are easy and relaxing and there is a lot to see which is going on down below, with some pretty reefs to poke around in. On one dive, I saw a school of cuttle fish, which was super cool, and something I hadn’t seen before.
As well as the maintenance issues, it isn’t a cheap option to dive in Kotok- though it is convenient and still easier and cheaper than flying to Bali (or beyond) to get the scuba kit on and to blow bubbles underwater. I also don’t know where else it would be possible to see underwater in the artificial house reef, a toilet and a local bus!
On dry land, Kotok Island has another quirky side- on the east of the island is a Sea Eagle Raptor and Rescue Centre has been set up by Jakarta Animal Aid Network. It is a special sanctuary set up to rescue the very rare brahminy kites, locally known as elang bondol , and which also happen to be an emblem of the city of Jakarta. The Kotok sanctuary is currently home to 47 brahminy kites and five rare white-bellied sea eagles that have been rescued by wildlife campaigners, and trained and released after being rescued.
There really is so much going on in these islands so close to Jakart- it is easy to forget this beautiful piece of nature exists when living the everday in the big smoke, but it is great to know that such great getaways are just a boat ride away.
Waaaay back in May I took a short four day break to the island of Pulau Weh, which is positioned off the coast of Banda Aceh. The sole purpose of this trip was to dive, as I'd heard about this spot as being a bit of a diver's haven. It was quite the jouney getting to Weh, requiring a flight from Jakarta to Medan, then Medan to Aceh, then transport to the ferry to the island, which took about an hour, and then another 45 minutes in a taxi to the dive resort. It was basically an entire day travelling time, and I really felt like I had earnt my (illegal) beer once I'd checked in and finally sat down at the resort. I knew the trip was going to be a good one, when one of the first divers who I spoke to happened to be the friend of a friend in Jakarta, so I had an instant dive buddy for the next few days.
Pulau Weh is quite a sleepy little island- well, it was at Gapang beach where Lumba Lumba dive resort was positioned. This meant the warungs closed early and the area was almost completely silent by 9pm, save for a few street dogs barking and stray goats bleating. This was also perfectly okay, as my reason for being there was to dive, which meant early starts every day.
I was certainly not disappointed by the diving. The ocean was a dreamy blue colour, and the visibility was fantastic. Weh boasts some really interesting underwater landscapes, and on every dive I saw loads of colourful fish, beautiful corals, including heaps of huge fan corals, as well as other creatures of the sea. There were some pretty strong currents- which I never really enjoy when diving- but this would be my only problem with the dives, which is hardly a problem than it is a preference. Other divers said the dives they did at Weh were much more impressive than any they had done recently in the Red Sea due to the abundance of fish and the lack of other people- the gorgeous underwater world of Weh is a boon to divers as it is not at all busy like more well-known spots can be, full of other divers.
I did one of my favourite night dives so far, off the house reef. It was shallow, so we were underwater for almost 90 minutes, and I loved seeing the little blue tails of trigger fish sticking out of their nighttime sleeping spots, all the red eyes of the crabs and lobsters at the feeding station and an always weird to see octopus chilling out on a rock. The day time dives brought many highlights also- bumpheads, groupers, rays and turtles.
It was a short time, but I don't think my last time visiting Weh. I only got to dive a handful of the sites which are available, and I really want to go back and be impressed some more again sometime in the future.
MAY, 2011
I had to get a very early ferry from Pulau Weh back to Banda Aceh on the mainland, and my flight back to Jakarta didn't leave until the afternoon, providing me with a few hours to kill in the small town before my departure. Aceh is of course most well known as the place where the tsunami in 2004 did some of its most damage, killing hundreds of thousands of people. It was somewhat saddening to know that every person I met or interacted with had most probably lost someone to the big wave, and there did seem a certain moroseness, a darker vibe than that which I normally feel in other parts of Indonesia. This could also be because this region is ruled by sharia law, so the extreme laws of Islam are strictly enforced by the sharia police who have a bad reputation among locals and other Indonesians alike- they can be brutal and unfair and there are many stories about ill-treatment of women by these police in Aceh.
The people of Banda Aceh have started to cash in on the infamy of the tsunami by opening a series of tourist attractions- the tsunami museum, featuring loads of photographs of the devastation and somewhat disturbing murals, and they have kept the building with the big boat which had washed on top of it intact for visitors to see.
The big mosque, while famous, is out of bounds to foreigners/non-Muslims.
I didn't actually see any of these things myself during my short stint in the town. This is because through half-coincidence I managed to find friends from Jakarta who were also in Aceh at the sme time. They had "seen the sights" the day before and relayed the information about them to me, leaving us to explore the more natural parts of Aceh, namely the beach. Although it was a little alarming seeing all the tsunami warning signs, it was still a very lovely, white sandy beach which was almost empty save for some school kids mucking about. We walked up and down, enjoyed a fresh coconut, did a bit of a taxi tour of the coastline and then sought out illegal beer. Bintang that is prohibited seems to taste so much better! After I left my mates for the airport, they continued on a mission to seek out Aceh Curry which is known for its traditional herbs which include pot....don't think this mission was so successful.
It was very relaxing to have these few hours in Aceh, and maybe next time I return I will actually visit the tourist attractions myself.
21-22 May, 2011On one free weekend in May, my sweetie and I decided to head out of town on a road trip to the seaside. One wouldn’t think a trip to the beach would be a difficult task when living on the island of Java. It actually shouldn’t be- with beaches as close as 90 km away from Jakarta. However, travelling on the road out of Jakarta to the west of Java is chaotic on the weekends when all the other road trippers also take to the same highway. So whilst scenic, the short journey by distance became an epic 5 hours each way journey by time. But it was okay, as we had tunes, and sunshine and new scenery to see from the window, and each other’s company to make the whole adventure a fun one.Our destination beach was Pelabuhan Ratu, which is famous for its surf. In fact, on this particular weekend there was a junior surf competition being held at the surf club, a small-scale prelude to bigger surf tournaments coming up in Bali. We got chatting to the surf club owner who told us many stories of recent surf rescues- showing where legends of the emerald Princess of the South Sea probably came from a long time ago.The legend goes that Nyai Loro Kidul, who was the daughter of the West Javanese King Prabu Silwangi and his beautiful yound wife Princess Kadita, flung herself into the waves in an effort to restore her beauty and end a run of bad luck. The legend tells that Silwangi's other wives were jealous of Kadita and her equally beautiful daughter so they used black magic to bring down a horrible disease on the twosome that destroyed their good looks and made them stink. The stench forced the king to send the pair packing, and after some wondering the mother died and Nyai Loro Kidul, harking to sirens in the waves below, took her famous plunge. Instead of dying, she was transformed into a beautiful sea goddess who continues to haunt the bay, preying on fishermen and sea bathers, especially those wearing green--her favorite color.This long told legend runs deep in Pelabuhan Ratu, where the rough surf and strong undertow have claimed many unwary victims. People are seriously warned not to wear the colour green on this part of the sea to avoid the Pribcess' wrath. This didn't stop us from taking to the waves for a refreshing body surf in the sun- though I can attest the waves were rather rough! The beach is really quite beautiful, with a long stretch of white sand against a backdropp of treaturous cliffs and other mountains even further in the distance along the horizon line.We found a nice enough hotel to stay at right on the beach, and as well a swimming in the sea, we walked along the shore taking photographs of the picturesque surrounds and gorged on fresh, yummy seaffood (ikan bakar) at a local warung.It was a really relaxing time, and we were blessed with good weather the whole weekend. We really didn’t want to leave, and probably left it too late to depart on Sunday….making the return to Jakarta an almost 7 hour epic car trip when we got stuck in queues at the toll gates on the highway. It’s all part of the experience I guess, and afterall, it is often about the journey and not the final destination that counts, right?
June 2011
Oh what a lovely, musical time it was in Jakarta in June. On 30 May was an intimate night in a concert hall with Ben Folds, who belted out the best Ben Fold’s Five tunes, but solo acoustic, just him, his piano (and for one number, his drum set) and his powerful voice. He was singing requests and the crowd sang along to just about everything. Ben Folds was the ultimate crowd pleaser and the whole intimacy of the venue made this a special night to have enjoyed with friends.
Then on 8 June, Fat Boy Slim graced the shores of Jakarta for a night of big electronic beats. It is such a pity he performed on a Wednesday (school) night, as it would have been an epic evening if work the next day wasn’t looming. He played all my favourite tunes, accompanied by a colourful, mesmerising light show. Ever the professional, Norman Cook didn’t even flinch when a few beats into his opening tune “What the Fuck”, we all thought exactly that- there was a mini blackout bringing darkness and soundlessness to the stadium. Other than this small hitch, the rest of the gig was awesome, and the crowd jumped around dutifully creating a fun vibe among the middle class kids and bules who filled the audience.
Finally, there was a night of glamour for Kylie Minogue who performed her Aphrodite show on 27 June. As an Aussie who grew up with Kylie on the air-waves, it was too good of an opportunity to not go and see this show when she played in Jakarta. This really fun night began with the journey out to Sentul, which is actually a couple of hours from the centre of Jakarta to the outskirts of greater Jakarta. My friend Lenin surprised us when we were in his car with an esky full of beer and….bottles of Moet! So we totally went the distance in style, which got us completely in the glamorous mood for the show. The convention centre turned out to be only partly full- I even wonder if the promoters broke even- which was great for us, as we got to stand in the very front and centre of the stage for prime viewing.
It all started a bit late- I think Kyles got caught up in Jakarta’s infamous traffic, but it was worth the wait. The concert was amazing- an almost over-the-top stage show, with Kylie looking ever-so-glam in a huge variety of costumes which she changed every few songs. She didn’t miss any of the faves- and even sang Locomotion which the local crowd seemed to really enjoy. My favourite moment of the night came at the end when our group started singing for an encore to include the one song Kylie hasn’t sung yet. Then on she came and sang All of The Lovers- as though especially for us- leading to a huddle of us singing along heartily for the grand finale. Good times! It ended up with this tune being in my head for days afterwards!
02 July, 2011
It’s fairly common in Asia (from my experience of living here anyway) for companies to take their staff out on an annual outing/weekend away, as a kind of gift to show their appreciation and to create a kind of team bonding experience. My company is no different, and this year’s annual outing was organised by a team of staff who managed to create quite a buzz among everyone about the trip. Matching screen printed shirts were made, itineraries were organised and the weekend finally came.
It was somewhat torturous. This was nothing to do with the organisation, just the Jakarta traffic, which meant our coach joined every other man and his dog heading out of Jakarta and onto the road leading out of town and up a mountain called Puncak which runs one-way at certain times on the weekends. It took al most 6 hours to arrive at our destination- Taman Safari Park.
It was so good to finally arrive and stretch the legs….before we had to return to the coach and start driving around a circuit to look at the animals which hung out in sectioned-off areas along the circuit. It was slightly disappointing that we didn’t get to walk around and get close. There was a fair variety of exotic animals on display including lions, tigers, rhinos, elephants and orangutans. I did feel sorry for them all, of course, not the least for the fact they had to breathe in car fumes all day every day.
After the watching-animals-from-the-bus-window circuit we had lunch- a fairly standard fare of Indonesian fried food- and then wandered around a little bit before we were shuttled off to the accommodation. There is nothing like this kind of place anywhere in Australia that I can even compare it to. From what I can tell, the whole accommodation complex has been set up for company retreats like ours, with blocks of hotel rooms, a massive dining hall, areas for playing badminton and other ball games and even a water park for the kids! Not really my cup of tea, but the company staff all loved it, which is what matters.
The weekend for me was a good chance to get out of Jakarta- just for the day, as I snuck away for the Sunday games and prizes component of the weekend. I think if it wasn’t so long being stuck in traffic to get to, I’d like to go back to the safari park and spend longer in the grounds- apparently there is a section we missed where you can actually pat the baby animals up close, including my fave orangutans. There is always next time I suppose!
Gunung Halimun 16-17 July, 2011
There are a couple of non-profit outdoor expedition groups operating out of Jakarta which are mostly enjoyed by expats. The two big ones are Java Lava, which organises treks up the many volcanoes around Indonesia, and the other is Go Wild, which plans inexpensive trips to off the beaten path type locations, with a particular bent on bird watching. I’ve been wanting to join one of the trips for ages, and finally one was organised by Go Wild which we were able to go to in terms of dates.
This arrangement for this trip was to go to a mountain called Halimun, about a five hour drive from Jakarta. On Halimun is a tea plantation and unspoilt jungle. It always seems hard to imagine that half a day of driving out of Jakarta could bring us to such a place. Whilst true, it wasn’t exactly an easy drive- we car pooled with someone who owned a 4WD which was definitely necessary to get through some of the bumpy roads. However, it was quite amazing! The tea plantation was HUGE! For as far as the eye could see, there was tea! The plantation was started by the Dutch when they colonised the area, and it remained as a local industry with all the villages existing within it being supported by the tea industry to this day.
The area was very beautiful to explore- jungle treks with heaps of birds and other wildlife- including gibbons which called in the morning and played in the tree branches of the jungle. There was also a waterfall which we visited and plenty of fresh air and sunshine. We stayed in homestays in one of the villages- very simple accommodation, but did the trick. The temperature fell at night, however, and once the cloud cover cleared to reveal millions of stars, so did the temperature drop to make a very chilly night/early morning.
We got up before sunrise on Sunday to spot the gibbons swinging in the trees at sunrise. We were treated to the special moment of watching the beautiful full moon setting in the sky as the fiery ball of light rose simultaenously. I don't see many sunrises in a year, so I felt lucky to be able to experience one as special as this was.
It was nice to get out into the fresh air and to see a really beautiful place that really isn’t that far from the bog smog of Jakarta. It is great to be reminded that these places exist outside of the big city centre, and of just how beautiful and naturally diverse Indonesia is. We also made some new friends, which is an added bonus!
Java Rockingland Festival 22-24 July, 2011
http://www.javarockingland.com/2011/
Now this was an epic weekend! Based on experiences attending this festival last year, I kinda knew the ropes. Based in north Jakarta in Ancol, the festival is quite a journey from central Jakarta. So a group of us stayed in a resort complex called the Putri Duyung in Ancol, making what we called the Huts of Fun as our residence for the weekend-long festival. Travelling up on Friday night was a long, traffic-laden journey, which just made arriving and being able to settle into the accommodation that much better.
There were headliner bands on each night- Friday night was 40 Seconds to Mars, Saturday night was The Cranberries and Sunday night was the Happy Mondays (who I had no idea were even still playing!). Other popular bands performing over the space of the weekend across several different stages included Blood Red Shoes, We Are Scientists, Frente and Good Charlotte. There were also stacks of local bands, playing mostly in the afternoons. I was particularly chuffed to happen upon Ed Kowalczyk from the band Live which I used to love last decade. He sang so many old Live tunes, and we were so close to the front of the stage- it was really quite an unexpectedly fun gig!
I could review every act individually, but won’t do that here on this blog. I enjoyed very much seeing so much live music in one place over one weekend. There were quirky things- such as having to buy packets of clove cigarettes in order to gain entry to one of the bars (something you would never imagine happening in Australia!), there was the Bintang Bar and Jim Beam lounge bar- all of which were never crowded as such areas would be at music festivals in the west- highlighting how this was about the music more than the whole festival experience. There were heaps of food stalls- you could even buy sushi which is certainly not regular festival fare. It was also great to be able to get so close to the front for many of the bands, without fear of being crushed by a manic mosh pit. It was also fun just to play in the outdoors with good friends/supereheroes- but that is another story altogether!
Indonesian festival experiences are really quite fun and are excellent value for money when you think about the quality of the bands for the small price of the tickets (especially when compared to home). This year's Java Rockingland Fetsival provided many good memories of another fun weekend (kind of) in Jakarta.
Bali White Party, Ku De Ta
19-21 August, 2011
There is quite a famous bar in the upmarket resort area of Seminyak in Bali called Ku De Ta. This bar is on the beach and pulls very well known DJs from around the world to play at their very popular parties. Every year, they hold a White Party- dress code- white only. I had the chance to go along to this year’s White Party with some of my good Jakarta friends, an offer which I just couldn’t refuse. A small group of us ended up travelling down to Bali for the weekend especially to attend the party at Ku De Ta, which is completely extravagant, but one of the things you can do as an expat in Jakarta- so why not?!
This year’s theme for the party (other than white) was Hello Sailor, and this theme was taken to the absolute extreme by the party orgnaisers. It was not difficult to se ewhy these partioes are work famous. Every effort and minute detail was considered, to make a party that really is unforgettable.
We all had tickets for the party as well as a sit-down four-couorse dinner. Hey, if you are going to travel to Bali especially for a party- may as well go all-out, right? When we arrived for the dinner, dressed in our white outfits replete with sailor hats (of course!), we were greeted by a real grand entrance to the party. In the bar, everything had been decorated with a sailor theme in mind. A giant submarine was set up in the central area, atop which stood beautiful women dressed in sailor outfits and modelling sexily and posing for photos. All the wait staff were dressed with sailor hats and outfits, flags from all over the world decorated the bar, as did bouys made especially for the event, labelled with HMAS Ku De Ta.
The four course meal was delicious, and we washed it down with several bottles of bubbles. Then when the tables were cleared, we got the dance floor going, while regular party guests started to fill the bar with white sailor themes get-ups. There was a dance/song performance that really got the party started, and then the DJs took over the decks and the party started pumping.
We danced all night, taking turns doing rounds of drinks which required some effort in getting to through the throngs to the bar. Throughout the night, hundreds of themed dancers took turns taking to podiums on the stage to dance sexily- there were overt displays of sexuality- and Popeye stilt walkers and fire dancers also wandered the crowd. No expense was spared, and everything was considered to put on a grand scale party. The only downfalls really were the expensive drinks and the fact there are only three women’s toilet cubicles in the whole place, which led to huge queues at the peak of the night.
The next day we recovered from the night’s fun by lounging by the pool in our villa complex, drinking beers, enjoying the suna nd company and generally lazing about. We shopped like crazy the day before and danced like mad the night before, so we deserved this time to chill out.
It was a very memorable weekend, and I’d do it all again in a flash with the same group of friends, it is a certainly a night I will remember with fondness for a long time to come.
August 27-29, 2011
What does one do when the office is closed, the entire city of 20 million people seems to clear out on-mass, and there are days spare before a true holiday away begins? Take a stay-cation of course! Jakarta during Idul Fitri is….quiet! If the streets and roads were as bereft of cars and other vehicles like it is during the holiday period when everyone goes pulang kampung returning to their villages and hometowns, then Jakarta would be a breezy city to live. It was almost verging on the point of spooky to experience the city without anybody on the streets, and for the sound of horns and revs of motorbikes to be practically non-existent.
There were 5 days before my planned trip to Papua, and whilst it was somewhat of a novelty to be in Jakarta in its unpopulated state, it was also a bit boring. So we booked into a 5-star hotel where we could enjoy the facilities and feel like we were actually away. There are quite a few 5-star places in Jakarta, and it was hard to choose which one to go to- in the end the Shangri-la got the pleasure of our custom.
It’s really fun to travel just ten minutes in the car, and to take the suitcase out of the car boot and to check into a hotel in your own city, and to pretend to be like a tourist, one of those who never leaves the hotel for the entire stay. We had access to the Horizon lounge, a space set aside for certain guests on certain deals, where we could help ourselves to snacks and tea and coffee and fresh juice all day, then by night we could enjoy a delicious buffet of tasty morsels and were served wine. This was where we stayed all night- it is so rare for me now to drink wine (with it being so expensive here), so it was nice to indulge in a good drop of white wine and to relax while looking out over the city skyline all lit up and sparkling. We got to chill out by the pool during the day and soaked up the sunshine- the other great thing about Idul Fitri time is that there is no pollution in the air, so the sky really is clear and blue as opposed to hazy and grey in its normal state. The buffet brunch was extensive and the service was good. All in all, I’d recommend a stay-cation in Jakarta if there is nothing else to do or any other place to go- it’s a relaxing and hassle-free way of “travelling”.
1-9 September, 2011
From the time I first arrived in Indonesia and started diving regularly, I often read newspaper or magazine articles and would hear divers talking about Raja Ampat in West Papua. It was described as an exclusive and elusive destination, mostly due to its somewhat remote location, and also the expense of travelling there. The pictures that would accompany the print stories presented a place that looked like paradise- with blue-green waters and limestone karsts jutting from the land. Diving books raved about the exotic creatures that were being found daily in the enriched tropical waters, and people who had been there bragged about how untouched and pristine Raja Ampat’s dive sites were. I knew I just had to go there myself, before it became less remote, more populated by tourists and the whole environment changed.
So I started planning for my usual two-week break over Lebaran, and decided that this was the perfect chance to go visit this more remote area of eastern Indonesia. I looked into both land-based and liveaboard options, and my decision to stay on-land was made for me by the unavailability of any liveabord boats at the time I wanted to go. So then my research began in-earnest. I soon realized that travelling to Raja Ampat for a diving holiday was not going to be a cheap holiday, and soon decided to cut my trip down to one week instead of two. It was after some intense research and bit of going with my instinct that I decided to book my dive trip with the Raja Ampat Dive Lodge on Mansuar Island. Being a fairly new dive outfit, there wasn’t a lot of information posted online about this resort, but what reviews I could find, were all positive. They were the same price (more or less) to the more well-known Kri Resort, the pictures on their website presented nice looking accommodation and all my correspondence with the resort was answered promptly and professionally. After this decision had been made, it was just a matter of booking my flights and then waiting for the time to finally come when I could go away on my big adventure out east.
And what an adventure it was! I find it remarkable just how vast the Indonesian archipelago is, and I still find it is remarkable that many parts of the country are still not easily accessible by plane. For places like Raja Ampat, this is probably a good thing, as it does deter people who are not super keen, thus keeping the place truly untouched. My flight left Jakarta in the late evening to Makassar, where I had an early-morning layover and then a morning flight to Sorong. That all happened seamlessly (I was thankful that Sri Wijaya Airlines was running efficiently), but it was already a long journey and I was weary when I arrived in sleepy and steamy Sorong. I was grateful that the resort’s Sorong-based staff were at the airport to meet me and take me to the boat which would take me out to the island. There was a wait for an hour or two before the boat departed, and when it did, we were in the open sea and a huge late morning storm hit. The ride was a wet and bumpy one, and when we arrived at the island resort, I was greeted by staff holding umbrellas. So it was a rainy start to my holiday- but that doesn’t matter when the goal is to be underwater for most of it!
I was keen to start my diving, so I checked into my lovely bungalow on the beach, ate a deliciously prepared 3-course lunch, had a quick nap, then opted for a sunset dive on the resort’s house reef. This was a good chance for both myself and the resort’s DM dive guide Jimmy to get to know each other’s dive styles and techniques, and to get a taste for what the week ahead would bring me under the water. It was a good beginning, but in retrospect I know it was really just a small sample of what the area had to offer under the water.
Over the space of the week, I did 24 dives- averaging four dives a day. I really was living the divers vacation adage of Sleep-Eat-Dive. I’d wake up, have breakfast, go out on the boat to do two dives, return to the resort for lunch and a nap, then out again for two more afternoon/early evening dives. Then, return to the resort, have a rest, eat dinner and go to be by 9pm every night from pure exhaustion!
I was also the only guest at the resort! This was great for me- I got 5-star, personalised service and felt like I was queen of my own resort. Each meal was prepared especially for me- the resort only does buffet when it is busy- and each day I could negotiate with the DM as to which sites I wanted to dive without having to worry about other guests wants and needs. I was super lucky!
Over the week of diving I was able to go to most of the sites in the area. They were all quite different- some had strong currents which brought in all the big fish like barracuda, sharks, and napoleon wrasse, while others were gently and calming with beautiful corals and unusual underwater landscapes. There were a couple of awesome drift dives, where we flew along the reef- so much fun! One of the highlights was when I got to see my first ever manta ray, 3 metres wide, it danced before us with so much grace, it was magical. We did have to wait on the sandy bottom of the feeding and cleaning station for the rays for almost an hour before it showed its face though! I was still lucky however, as the days and weeks before no ray had shown up for the divers waiting there.
Talking about divers, I think I saw just one or two other divers the whole week I was at Raja Ampat- which in itself was also amazing. It was like I had the whole area to myself! There were even deserted tropical islands with golden sand and clear water to complete this image- places where we stopped for surface intervals that were just like the paradise of dreams and postcards.
There were many great dive sites and I saw vast numbers of fish, turtles and sharks and an array of hard and soft corals. Probably my favourite site was the one I went to for my last dive- Kri Point- which absolutely blew me away. I’ve never dived among so many fish! There were schools of thousands of jacks, large schools of barracuda, several sharks and turtles, and the clearest water- it was just spectacular. Apparently, it was at this site that in one dive, 300 new species of underwater creatures were discovered- in ONE dive!
It was difficult to leave the resort on my last morning, and to get the boat back to Sorong. The returning to Jakarta and reality experience was made all the more difficult by Merpati Air cancelling my flight, which meant an unexpected “stranded passenger” overnight in Sorong, and days spent in the terminal building which resembled a shed more than an airport. It was such a relief to finally get on a plane, even if it was heading back to Jakarta! It’s a pity that a stop in Sorong is often required on the way out to the beautiful islands of Raja Ampat, but despite that necessity, it is well worth the journey. A big adventure out east to West Papua is something that divers should not miss- go there now while it is still un-spoilt and untouched.
22-23 October, 2011
Sometimes, Jakarta just gets to be too much. Too hot, too polluted, too busy. I was feeling this closed-in, stressed out feeling a few weeks ago, and then realised it had been six whole weeks since last getting out of town. A getaway was in order. So my love and I took the car and drove to west Java to a little village north of Bandung called Lembang. It was not a long or difficult journey, and the further we went, the less city and more country-like the scenery became, until at one point we were stopped at the top of a ridge looking across a valley to the lights of the city far in the distance, and surrounded by greenery and silence. We were heading to the Jadul Village Resort, somewhere I’d stumbled across when looking for accommodation on the internet. We didn’t really know what to expect- the website looked great, but I’ve learnt not to ever get expectations up too high. This time however, I was definitely not disappointed.
From the time we arrived late at night on a Friday from Jakarta, and drove down the lantern-lit driveway, and checked-in at the beautiful foyer area, we knew we had made a great choice to stay at the Jadul Village. We were taken to our Gebeyok Villa and were blown away! The villa was very spacious- it had a balcony out front, a huge room that included a lounge area, and which was furnished and decorated with wooden Javanese pieces all carved beautifully, it had a massive bed in the middle of the room, and then a separate bathroom, which was also huge. One amazing feature was an awesome stone bath tub that easily fit two people, and the bathroom also had a water feature which was soothing and balancing. In the darkness of our arrival we couldn’t see much from our balcony, but in the morning we saw that the setting for the villa was lovely, with views out over the village and beyond to the green hills and mountains in the distance.
The grounds of the village were also relaxing to walk around, very well-kept gardens, with a large grassy area and ponds replete with carp and lily pads. We checked out the other bigger villas- the Joglo and Limasan- that would be suitable for a small group of friends or a family. All of them were exquisitely decorated in the Javanese tradition, no expense has been spared in recreating traditional Javanese style villas with antique furniture and artworks to decorate them.
The whole rustic village atmosphere meant that it felt like a true getaway from the heat, noise and pollution of Jakarta- it was very peaceful, quiet and relaxing. The claustrophobic feeling I had felt in Jakarta was washed away by the end of the weekend.
While in the area over the weekend, we also enjoyed two fun activities- a visit to a volcanic crater and strawberry picking. You can read about strawberry picking here on my website The Raw Warung. The crater called Tangkuban Parahu is one of the famous attractions of the Bandung area. We drove about half an hour up the winding mountain road to the summit which is 1830 metres above sea level, and basically looked down into the rim of a volcanic crater which was formed 1000 years ago. It was quite an eery scene. The volcano is still active, and there were flumes of smoke blowing out of the ground in the centre of the crater. Whispy clouds also blew across the crater, so we were literally standing in the clouds. The unusual landscape was like something from outer space and not earth, with grey, rocky and sparse expanses of ground and just a few hardy trees growing. The clouds continued rolling in across the crater in the early afternoon until soon there was rain. This as a good excuse to hide away in a little warung to enjoy some ginger tea called bandrek that is famous in the area.
Once the rain subsided we were able to head back through the market selling all sorts of souvenirs and trinkets and then took a drive into the city of Bandung to get a bite to eat. We ate at a great little Sundanese restaurant called Sapu Lidi and enjoyed some traditional cuisine local to the area. I loved all the vegetarian options! You can read about them on The Raw Warung here.
The other tourist activity that Bandung is famous for is outlet shopping- so we had to pop into one of these shops to see what bargains we could find. I was actually not that amazed- I guess there was plenty of variety, but it was chaotic, and the prices were really not that cheap- though I guess still cheaper than buying the real name brand version from a mall in Jakarta.
With that crossed off the list we were able to return to our lovely villa which we didn’t even bother leaving until check-out time on Sunday. We were the ultimate in indulgent (lazy?) by ordering breakfast to our villa to enjoy on the balcony looking out over the green valley. It sure was difficult to leave and to return to the big city again, but it is great knowing such a relaxing little getaway spot is just 2 hours away for the next time Jakarta just gets to be too much.
November 4-6, 2011
I never need too much of an excuse to get away and to take a mini break, but one of the best is a birthday. So when my love had his birthday recently, I decided we should celebrate by taking a quick jaunt down to Lombok. I chose this island, which has Bali as its nearest neighbor, as an alternative getaway spot to the regular choice of Bali. In my opinion, Lombok is an upcoming tourist hot-spot- especially as it now has a flashy new international airport.
It was a somewhat frantic dash to get to the airport on time on the Friday night- the notorious Jakarta traffic which is always worse on a Friday night, along with trying to leave work on-time, made for a bit of a rush to get checked-in on time. Then, after all the mad dashing, the flight was delayed in boarding, and once we boarded, we were sat on the runway for 45 minutes. So instead of arriving in Lombok at 10pm it was almost midnight. Then it was another hour’s journey to the hotel where we were staying, at Sengiggi Beach. It was kind of weird to arrive at our hotel so late, in complete darkness and quiet, with no idea of what the surrounds were like. However, it was really nice to finally arrive in our lovely room at a place called The Puncak, atop a hill which apparently looked over the ocean.
It was only in the morning when we opened the curtains of our room that we were treated to panoramic views from atop the hill and down over the expanse of ocean below. Simply beautiful! Then we sat on our porch and were served a huge breakfast- fruits, pastries, French press coffee, juice- which we enjoyed in the beautiful sunshine and looking out at the priceless view. The infinity pool right in front of our room was irresistible, and after breakfast I just had to jump in.
We didn’t really have a plan for the day, so we decided to take a walk and explore. We probably should have made more of a plan or looked at a map, as we got a bit lost, and then when it started to rain, we jumped into a taxi and ended up at an historical Hindu temple. The rain shower stopped and we were able to explore the small compound and take some pictures. With the cultural element out of the way, we decided it was then time to find the beach, so we ended up in Sengiggi town where we found a motorbike to hire and take for a bit of a spin around the coastline which is really quite stunning. The beaches in Lombok are definitely cleaner than those in Bali.
By this time we were ready for a cold beer, so we stumbled across an Italian restaurant which was positioned right on the beach. So we sat with our feet in the sand and enjoyed a beautiful sunset with a cold beer in hand. At the same time as the sun was setting, huge, grey rain clouds started to sweep overhead until they were literally looming above us. The inevitable rainy season storm then hit and we took cover inside the open-air restaurant, where we ended up staying for dinner. It was so relaxing to look out at the sea right in front of where we were sat, and there were lots of pretty lights set up in the trees and lanterns in strategic places to create a romantic ambience. We didn’t end up leaving for the rest of the night until we jumped on the scooter to head back to the resort.
The next morning was more view, sunshine, swim and breakfast before we took the scooter out for another explore. This time we ended up at a nearby national park. Totally unprepared in terms of footwear, water or repellant, we took off on a trail to find a waterfall which signs were pointing us to. It was so ridiculously humid, that I was soaked in sweat after just a few hundred metres, plus there were heaps of mosquitoes. But we trooped on and eventually found first a small tributary and then the main waterfall, which was not exactly a raging torrent, but still pretty. Having reached our destination we turned back, walking rather quickly in order to get back to the entrance before the storm which was rumbling began. Hot, sweaty, bitten alive by mozzies and thirsty, we got back before the thunder became rain, and found a place to eat lunch and to enjoy a refreshing ale before we had to actually leave for the airport.
The weekend was over far too quickly. It was quite a schlep out to the new airport, the trip taking about 75 minutes from Senggigi during the daytime. At least the plane left right on time, so our arrival back in Jakarta was not too delayed. It was not the easiest get-away given the flights and travelling time, but Lombok is a beautiful place that has loads of potential (which I am sure developers will be on to). The Puncak is recommended as a lovely, relaxing place to stay with really friendly owners and a great location in terms of the view.
November 25-27, 2012
What do you get when you throw 12 good friends + a private villa with pool on the sea + a sunny weekend away? A whole lotta fun is what! A small group of us all went away to a little seaside town called Tanjung Lesung, in West Java, to celebrate Viki's 40th. She had organised a gorgeous villa, smack dab on the beach, which included a private pool. The weather was fabulous the whole weekend, and it was great to just laze by the pool, drink some wine, listen to tunes from our very own DJ Antony and generally get raucous as the day turned into night and the night wore on.
As always when it comes to leaving Jakarta, it was still a mission. My sayang and I left Jakarta at 9:30pm on Friday night and didn't get to the village until 3am. This is partly due to missing a turn and going an hour out of our way, as well as the road being very bumpy and there was even fog to add an extra element of fun to driving to an unknown place at night.
It was well worth the journey though, especially waking up in such beautiful surrounds- the ocean with fishing boats moored a little way from the shore, gorgeous greenery and flowers, and I even heard birds chirping! It was a very hot weekend, and it was a relief to be able to jump into the pool when sweat started dripping. There was also a barby for cooking up the meals, which included a giant fresh fish and huge shrimp which got barbequed for lunch on Sunday before we left.
Just as we were leaving to go back to Jakarta, it started raining, the monsoon storm that had been brewing and baking all weekend finally broke. Even though it took about 6 hours to return to Jakarta, there were plenty of tunes to enjoy and it felt a lot quicker than it actually was.
A fabulous way to spend a weekend in Java, and great prelude to the beginning of Southern Hemipshere summer and the fun weeks ahead!
December 7-11, 2011
From the second I arrived in Bali's airport, where the gamelan music was playing in the background, and I spotted the small Balinese offerings which had been placed strategically in front of the hotels booth, I felt the stress of Jakarta dissipate. Then, once I had checked into my Seminyak hotel and was walking on the golden sand and sucking in the smell of the sea, I felt like I'd come "home". The familiarity I feel whenever visiting Bali instantly made me feel relaxed, and then meeting my good friend Sally again after a whole year made it even more fun. Bali really is such an easy travel destination, and at this time when it was low season and not at all crowded, it was a really enjoyable place to go to get away from the chaos of Jakarta.
There is so something enchanting, especially in beautiful restaurants like La Luciola where we ate dinner on my first night. The fairy lights strung from trees on the beach at the restaurant entrance, down to the great service and bountiful Balinese smiles, and of course the delicious food, provided an experience which at home would be unaffordable unattainable or non-existent in the same kind of setting. One of the pleasures of living in Indonesia is being able to live a luxurious life at a fraction of the cost it would be in Oz.
For my second day in Bali was the short trip north to the cultural centre, Ubud. If I'd felt like I'd come home while down south of Bali, then arriving in Ubud was close to heaven. The hotel where we stayed, the Tegal Sari, was the epitome of peace. Really friendly staff and gorgeous gardens set among the centre of a huge rice field was fabulous. I could have sat on my balcony and watched the ducks waddling along the paddies, watched farmers tending to the fields, enjoyed the birds and butterflies which fluttered past and soaked up the quiet and charm for days and not done anything else. Jakarta seemed another world away- which I guess it was.
But stopping completely was not really an option with so many amazing cafes and restaurants to indulge in. There is a fabulous variety of healthy, organic, vegetarian and even raw food establishments. In Ubud it seemed that I could try a new place for every meal and even if I doubled up would have such a variety of menu options at each place that I could easily eat raw vegan food for weeks. Such a treat!
So that is what I did- ate at Bali Buddha for lunch, Clear Cafe for dinner, Sari Organic for lunch, Kafe for breakfast. I did a review of these places at The Raw Warung if you are interested in knowing more about them: http://www.therawwarung.com/1/post/2011/12/spoilt-for-raw-choice.html The only night I didn’t go to one of these healthy hippy places was for an absolute splurge for Sally's birthday dinner where I took her to Mosaic to indulge in the 6 course tasting menu with wine pairings. This amazing 6 star establishment is an amazing experience, and we had an unforgettable meal.
Between meals and chilling out there was one trip to the central market to hone my bargaining skills, chaotic but fun. I picked up some more silver jewelry (I just can't resist!) and a few little last minute Xmas gifts. I sensed a feeling of desperation in the shop holders in the market, something I'd not really felt before in Bali. I wonder whether this was just from the low season crowds meaning sales were less or whether fewer tourists are coming and spending generally. In any case, it did mean getting some great deals on things without too much hassle.
Between the eating, the shopping and the wandeirng, there was only time left really to sit by the pool, watch the sunset over the rice fields, watch ducks waddling, be mesmerised by the workers with their buffalo in the fields and to just- relaaaaxxxxx. It sure was hard to leave Bali, as it always is, and I'm already planning when the next getaway to Ubud might be as I feel a calling to that place like I haven't felt to somewhere in a long time.
In the interests of me keeping this blog up-to-date and in order, this blog post is going to be brief because I already have other entries to write and add and because life has suddenly become super busy! I'm now studying, in addition to working and blogging and keeping fit..and holidaying! :-)
It is already more than halfway through January, and I still haven't written anything about my holiday back in Australia last month! So, in short, in two wonderful weeks I: breathed clean air and enjoyed the lovely mild Queensland weather (without much rain at all!), met my delightful new nephew Sebastian, taught my mum about raw foods, enjoyed my mum's birthday with the fam on the beach, played with my best friend Drew for the first time in two years and wreaked plenty of havok (on Brisbane and my liver....), caught up and spent quality time with my other darling friends, wrapped presents, did a Samford Christmas, gave presents, got drunk on bubbles at the Watermark at Christmas, did some shopping and stocking-up, spent NYE at my favourite festival Woodford, drank lots of delicious yet cheap Aussie and NZ wine, packed in an epic marathon session, and took off again. My departure saw me with 20kg more luggage than I arrived with, mostly because of bringing back a hefty sized dehydrator which you can read about here: http://www.therawwarung.com/1/post/2012/01/mmmmy-sedona.html in addition to having lots of shopping (the clothes and shoes that are actually my fit in oz were too irrestistable!).
I think that is it in a nutshell- there are some pics below which are much more enjoyable than this dribble :-)
One of the best most stupendous things about living in Jakarta is the string of live music that regularly seems to tour through the region, stopping by Jakarta on the way to or from KL, Singapore or Bangkok. This makes me happy, as I get to see lots of bands that I love or are interested in, and the shows are never that expensive. Considering that this year is only a few weeks young, I have already had the chance to see a LOT of music!
It started with a Wednesday night at Senayan Tennis Centre for Foster the People. This band are one of my new favourites, thanks to one Zoe Carr recommending them to me at the end of last year. I listened to them after a sneaky little download and absolutely loved the band's catchy, upbeat tunes. Their album is great getting-going-in-the-morning music! When I heard they were coming to Jakarta, I knew that I just had to go, even though they were playing on a weeknight and in a part of town that is a bit tricky to get to without getting caught in traffic for hours.
As it was, we nearly missed the start, as we really didn't expect that they would start on time. On tne ticket it stated 7:00pm so our assumption was the doors would open, and then there would be a support band who would play, and that maybe Foster the People would come on at 9pm-ish. Well.....luckily, we decided to go into the venue at about 8:00, because they were just about to start as we were entering to a room full of cheers and applause from the hyped-up Jakartan crowd. The show was great fun and met all my expectations, especially the final song, a techno version of Pumped up Kicks which saw the 4000 people who filled the tennis centre jumping around rave-party style and even included a bit of crowd surfing by lead singer Mark Foster.
The performance by Foster the People, which they announced was their debut concert for the year, really was a lot of fun. As well as playing all the songs from their one and only album, including favourites I Would Do Anything- which saw everyone singing along to the chorus- and Call It What You Want, they also played a homage to Weezer, performing a cover of Say It Isn't So. Mark also gave us an bit of an inspirational motivation speech before playing Waste, and we were treated to a slow it down a little rock ballad in the first encore song. The only thing missing from this event was beer- this was a dry gig for some reason- we couldn't find a bar, anyway!- so I had a free hand the whole show which didn't feel quite right :-) I took a heap of photos, which I sadly have lost in the Great Memory Card Wiping Debarcle of 2012. So all you get to see is the gig poster :-)
All in the same week, this gig was quickly followed up by a wee Friday night Festival at Bengkel Night Park. As part of a tour through the Asian region stopping at Hong Kong, Taipei and Singapore, the People's Party was also treating Jakartan punters for a night. The line-up for this show was promising- though I was not that familiar with any of the bands- I had heard of these Indie outifits before. With a small group of friends all planning to go along, I could not see any reason not to have a bit of a play. Five bands were on the lineup- Roman Foot Soldiers, a Jakartan based band, The Jezebels from Australia, Bombay Biscycle Club from the UK, Naked and Famous from NZ and Metronomy from the UK.
We only arrived after a delicio dinner in time to see the Bombay Bicycle Club, who seemed to really get the audience going. I'm always amazed by how well locals seem to know the bands they go to see. This part guitar rock, part folky, part harmonic electronic sound, with strong and melodic vocals, these guys sure brought the atmosphere of Bengkel up a notch and proved to be really popular.
Five piece kiwis, Naked and Famous, followed up after a quick change-over on the stage (I've never seen so many roadies on one stage at one time!). It was great to see a strong female presence on the stage for this band, who were quite different in sound to those who they were following on from. Whilst these guys had the regular instruments- guitars, bass, drums- their sound was more of an electronic nature, full of distortion and synth that was dancy, poppy, rocking, all at once. It was powerful stuff!
The headliners Metronomy, were also really upbeat and fun, but again with a very different sound. They were also very quirky, with all band members sporting a circular white light that was pinned to their chests and which would "beat" on and off to the beat of the music. I'd describe their sounds as eclectic electronic, that was both dancy and fun as well as being quite experiemental- very original. The tune of the final song- which I don't know the name of- has actually been stuck in my head all week!
So it was a mix of music for one week, showing there is still a lot of musical talent out there in the world, and I feel so privileged to be able to enjoy it. Again, I have no pictures unfortunately (they too, were all lost!), so you will just have to use your imaginations, or Wiki the bands (if Wikipedia is back up and running!).
Good times to kick off 2012 which I have a feeling is going to be awesome!
I love playing tour guide to people who visit me in Indonesia, and it is even more fun when it is my parents! This was their first time to Indonesia, so I planned an itinerary that would show them some of the most beautiful places in not too off-beat locations for a luxury, relaxing holiday away.
It is fun planning for a trip like this, and even more enjoyable actually taking the holiday! This ten day break really felt like a proper holiday. Lots of sunshine, beaches, yummy food, beautiful sunsets, cocktails and a good time out from general Jakarta life.
The first night I met mum and dad in Bali and took them to the luscious La Luciola where we had the best table in the house looking out over Seminyak beach for our three courses of yumminess. It was a windy night- hair-raising!- but the wind changed direction just as we sat down, making the dinner one that was totally enjoyable and luxurious.
The next day was out to Padang Bai super early, for the ferry over to Gili Trawangan. The ride was a little scary with a huge swell carrying us part of the way over and under waves- but we got to Gili T safely. We checked into the Trawangan Villa, our home for 3 nights, and it was really better than imagined. Two lovely bedrooms with a private pool separating them and adjoined by a lounge area and kitchen with a gorgeous garden. The villa complex also had a beachfront bar, deckhairs and awesome tree houses for relaxing in.
My sayang met us at Gili T, and got to enjoy the whole holiday together wit me and my folks. It is funny that I was actually playing a bit of the tour guide for him, as this was my 5th visit to the small island paraside, but only his first.
I got some diving in- but the conditions were not so good, so viz was bad and I didn't see much, BUT, it is always good to get underwater and blowing bubbles. We were actually lucky to have arrived on Gili T when we did, as all boats from the next day were cancelled for the rest of the week due to bad weather. It happened to be one of the two bad weeks of the year for ocean conditions when we were there. That said, the sun shone every day and it just meant the island was really quiet and not so busy.
Every night we indulged at one of the lovely beachside restaurants doing seafood buffets and salad bars. We also did an evening watching the sunset at the Sunset Bar which was fun! This required a horse and carriage ride bacvk into the main town which was kind of exhilarating- especially when later we saw a runaway horse carriage hurtling doen the dirt path!
The most indulgent night would have been at the Kokomo Restaurant which was a total indulgence....5 star table service with a 6 star view over the white sand and torquoise waters. This was a really amazing meal to enjoy in such a beautiful place.
It was difficult to lave the island and a sad farewell....but then it was a new place and a new part of the adventure on mainland Lombok. Here we stayed at the Qunci Villas which were amazing on every level. Lovely suite room with partial ocean views, big balcony for chilling on, and the most amazing infinity pool looking out over the sea. The two hour happy hour every night was also great for some delicio cocktails.
On Lombok we did some mroe eating and drinking in the evenings....well, most of the day actually, from the breakfast to snacks for lunch and then dining in the evenings. Such a hard life!
We did a one day tour which took us to a traditional Lombok village of the Sasak people where life is still very simple and running very traditionallty with subsistence farming and handicrafts such as weaving still the main income stream. It was a bit of an eye opener really. Then we drove down to the gorgeous, totally unspoilt Kuta Beach at the south of Lombok. This beach is nothing at all like the Kuta of Bali....the beaches and waters here were pristine, and the scenery was just stunning. It reminded me a bit of New Zeland with green rolling hills and lovely blue waters. This is a bit of a surfing mecca, but life is still very simple and at the moment, undeveloped, and I hope it stays the way it is for a while longer....but think that might be wishful thinking, especially with the new airport being just a half hour drive fromt his part of the island.
There was my birthday while on Lombok which involved a day of pampering at the spa and then red wine in the afternoon and cocktails at sunset and a delicious dinner at the Ballroom restaurant. So much loveliness! I'm such a spoilt lady!
It was even more difficult to leave Lombok because it meant the end of the holiday. Poor mum and da had their flights cancelled so faced a very long journey ahead of them. But, before they left Indonesia, we had some time in Bali to enjoy the Ayana Resort for dinner. The delicious Asian buffet was the perfect way to end a lovely, relaxing holiday even though it was a rainy and stormy night in Bali.
I was actually a bit down for days after getting back to Jakarta....it was so nice and relaxing on the islands with so much sunshine and just total perfection, it was like a dream. But that is ok, cos we have already started planning for the return visit next time!
Where does the time go? I cannot believe it has almost been a whole month since I was away in Cambodia- it seems like a dream!
It was such a whirlwind visit to Phnom Penh, I barely had time to digest anything while I was there. The reason I was in Phnom Penh was to participate in the CamTESOL Conference which happens annually. This was my first time to attend the conference, but my second time to the city. The first time I was in PP was back in 2006 and I feel like either a lot has changed and developed, or maybe I have grown up a lot since then, as my memories of PP were of a city that was a bit lawless and reckless and Wild West-like….but I was also a backpacker and probably not staying in the most seemly of places.
This time around I ended up staying in a beautiful hotel called the White Mansioon, a renovated villa in the heart of the embassy district. It was situated on a gorgeous boulevard that was filled with trendy cafes and fashion boutiques just down the road from one of the big squares. It was a great location and I loved jumping on the back of a tuk-tuk every morning for the short trip to the conference venue. I actually loved being able to sit in the back of the tuk-tuk, there was something a bit romantic about the whole mode of transport, a motorcycle driven cart whisking me down the streets with the wind blowing past and having full view of all around me. It was refreshing to be able to move through the traffic and to be transported quickly and easily through the streets- so unlike Jakarta!
Other than these daily trips to and from my hotel, I didn’t get to see much of the city really. A few of the conference functions were held at the Cambodiana Hotel, right on the Thong Le Sap River. It was a great venue for sunset cocktails and the conference dinner, in the open air under the stars and again a refreshing change from the indoors in malls and cranked up AC life of Jakarta. The conference venue was an educational institute that was a little rundown and dusty, but the only venue in the city centre that could accommodate so many thousands of attendees. The facilities were quite simple, with most classrooms where workshops and papers were presented having just fans and basic white boards and old furniture….it was a reminder that I was very much in a still developing area of the world.
It was a bit of a treat to be able to enjoy drinking at the bars in the evenings with friends and not having to spend a fortune on booze like in Jakarta. The Foreign Correspondents Club was probably the priciest place my friends and I went to and even then it was very affordable compared to Jakarta prices. There seemed to be a real buzz about the city in the evenings, with lots of little bars scattered over a few districts which were mostly attended by expats and tourists.
I got to experience the charms of the city on the last day when I was lucky to be invited on a boat cruise which took a group of us down the river to where there is a Vietnamese floating village of ethnic Vietnamese who through several generations don’t have the required papers to actually live on the Cambodian land. They have made lives for themselves on houses set upon pontoons on the river, and they literally live on the water, fishing from boats and doing everything in their lives on the river. It was a little sad and very interesting to see how this group of people lives, although they all seemed happy and industrious from our boat vantage point.
There was a beautiful sunset that concluded the boat trip and the whole afternoon was a lovely end to the very short and busy four day trip. It was nice to relax after the stress of presenting at a forum and running a workshop and of the constant networking, which while fun, can be exhausting.
It was a lovely conference to be able to attend and it was a delightful place to be able to spend a few busy days away from Jakarta. I definitely want to go back and spend more time in the city, to actually visit some of the pagodas, experience the Buddhist culture up-close, to try more of the local cuisine and to generally experience the vibe of the city without the stress of work on my mind. It was also great to be able to see some of my old friends from Hanoi while in PP, an added bonus to attending the conference, which I really believe I will go to again.
My conclusion is that just as I have grown up, so has this bustling and vibey little city, and Phnom Penh is definitely worth visiting for anyone who gets the chance.
P.S. These pictures were all taken on my camera phone because my amazing beloved camera got stolen when I was exploring a market. It was my fault for not being more careful and being a bit too complacent about my belongings. If I was a poor Cambodian and saw a foreigner's camera strap hanging out of their bag, I'd find it hard to resist the temptation to nick it too. But it was sad. And it is a pity I couldn't have taken better quality pics- but these are better than nothing at all I spose :-)
The beauty of so many places in Indonesia never ceases to amaze me. I feel so privileged to live in a country that can boast so many gorgeous tropical islands, like the ones you imagine on post cards. The best bit is that many of them are super close to Jakarta, and are completely accessible easily and inexpensively.
Everyone by now knows that there are a lot of public holidays in Indonesia. Most of you also know that I like to make the most of these and will always try to get away somewhere, whether it be the tried and trued trail of Bali or exploring somewhere new.
Over the Easter break a couple of weeks ago, I decided that it was time for a wee adventure. I had heard some friends talking about Belitung Island, so I did some preliminary investigations and decided that it would be the perfect place to spend a three day weekend. The island itself is off the east coast of Sumatra, and it is only a 45 minute flight from Jakarta. It was actually such an easy journey- the flights (amazingly) left on time and it was like we had no sooner reached altitude than we were ready to land again for the adventure to begin.
It was an adventure, because Belitung has only recently been discovered as a tourist detsination. The island has gone through some name changes and has quite an interesting history- it used to be called Billiton Island after the mining company BHP Billiton. While some mining still takes place, fishing, and now tourism, seem to be the main sources of income for the locals. It is still quite untouched, and still learning how to accommodate for tourists who come over from Java. I also think the locals are used to receiving local tourists more than they are expats or foreigners, and having Indo language skills made things much easier for us
I had booked us some accommodation at a place called the Bukit Berahu Resort, which is on a picturesque beach called Tanjung Tinggi. We were the only people who were staying at these cottages for the first night, though we did get many visitors who came down to the beach to watch the sunset over the ocean and to eat at the restaurant, which I think is known as one of the better dining establishments on the island.
There is absolutely no doubt that the beaches of Belitung are stunning. The infrastructure also seems pretty good- smooth bitumen roads and electricity that didn't cut out. However, the actual facilties- like restaurants or cafes- are very lacking. The customer service was certainly poor at our accommodation, but the rustic charm of cottages on the beach and the stunning beauty of the ocean really made up for it.
We hired a motorbike and this made it much easier for us to get around- without hiring wheels- either a car and driver or a motoribike, it would be difficult to tour about on the island. Having the motorbike gave us our freedom to explore, which we did and which we loved. The thing that struck us as we drive arounf was just how absolutely quiet and peaveful the island was. Sleepy doesn't even cut it when it comes to describing the quiet...maybe asleep or even dead would be more like it! The streets were empty, devoid of people or any kind of activity, and it was almost eery!
We went on an amazing island hopping adventure that I will write up in a separate post, and took a visit into the town on Saturday night to see what was going down (not much....it really is a sleepy island!). We also did lots of beach combing between chilling out and trying to eat vegetarian friendly food. You can read a but more about the dining side of our Belitung experience here: http://www.therawwarung.com/1/post/2012/04/power-of-my-passions.html
The peace and quite, the rustic charm, the beautiful sunsets, the gorgeous turquoise seas, the picturesque scnery and the tranquil and as-yet untouched beaches sure do make Belitung quite a special place to visit. I don't think it is going to stay this was for long though, as it has a lot of potential for bringing tourists in and with a bit of an improvement on their service and ramping up of the facilties, Belitung could just become like the next Bali. You read it here first :-)
Now I will let the pictures tell the story....
Saturday April 7th, 2012
I like to think that my lack of planning for a trip away is more to do with aiming for spontaneity than being disorganised. There is something special about taking yourself off to a new place without really having much of a plan, and in my experience, this has generally always led to more fun. So while on Belitung Island, I had the vague idea that you could go on boat trips and do island hopping. This sounded like a lot of fun, so we inquired at the hotel and they told us that the island hopping boats leave every morning from a place called Kelayan. So we took ourselves off on the scooter and whizzed through the quiet, empty streets and found our way (via a few detours and wrong turn loops) to the beautiful Kelayan beach. The cottages on the beach here looked very cute, similar to the ones we were staying in at Bukit Berahu, and given that the location of Kelayan is not so out of the way, I'd say this might be where we would stay on our next visit. But I digress.
We arrived at Kelayan and saw lots of boats on the beach which were filling up with lifejacket clad passengers all ready for their day of island hopping to the rocky outcrops that could be seen a few kilometres away on the horizon. I was getting excited- yay, island hopping! The last time I did this was in Thailand years and years ago.
We approached the cafe/tour booking desk/reception area and asked about doing a day trip. The response was not what I had expected. All the boats for the day were full, on pre-booked tours, there was no way we would be able to go out on this day. The word to describe my feeling at this point was devastated.
I was so disappointed but I was also determined. I went up to a few of the boatmen and asked if we could maybe join the tour, just two more people would be okay, wouldn’t it? I got the same response- no. So there we sat, looking out over the golden sands of a beautiful beach and into the distance where the islands remained elusive to us. This wasn't part of the plan! (Never mind that if we actually DID have a plan, then maybe we would be getting on a boat at this juncture, not looking on sadly at others doing so…)
Then I had a brainwave- we had passed a small fishing village on the way from Tanjung Tinggi beach to Kelayan beach, a small place that a Welcome sign told us was called Binga. Surely there was a fisherman there with a boat and nothing much to do other than take two lost tourists around for the day? It was worth a shot!
So we jumped back on our two wheels and motored the 15 minutes to the town. We stopped where a small group gathered near the jetty, and asked. Sure enough, not one, but two men offered us their services. We chose our guy and he led us to his boat, and then off we went on our own private island hopping tour!
I am so glad that we were able to head out to the islands- they were simply stunning. The islands surrounding Belitung easily rivalled any I have visited in other places- white sands, huge granite boulders, deserted coves and the clearest, cleanest, most turquoise coloured water you can ever imagine. It was picturesque and captivatingly beautiful.
The first island we went to, Pulau Burong, had unusual boulders jutting out of the water and we found a little islet of golden sand where it was just us, lazing about in the midday sun and lolling in the paradisical waters. We saw an eagle floating overhead, and snapped a million photographs of the boulders reflecting in the clear waters and the general tropical scene around us. Then, once we could feel our skin burning under the rays, we decided it was time to hop-on to the next island.
On our own private tour, we just had to find our fisherman and he navigated us onto Lengkuas Island, which is home to a 130 year old lighthouse, a remnant of the Dutch colonial days. Here we enjoyed a refreshing fresh coconut which gave us the energy to walk up the spiral stairs, 19 floors high, inside the lighthouse. This was so great to do, with windows open along the way showing off a different gorgeous vantage point, each as beautiful as the next. Golden sands, secret coves, coloured boats, blue and green ocean, palm trees- everything you expect to see in paradise just before our eyes.
After we had descended again we walked to one of the coves we had seen from up high and had a refreshing swim in the clean water. It felt like our own personal beach, and the scenery continued to take our breath away with its beauty.
Our next island was Pulau Babi, another practically deserted place which had an almost eerily deserted resort with empty cottages sat along amazing vantage points over the granite boulders which make it a very photogenic place. There were even hammocks to lie in lazily- and with not much else to do but to lie in them, we did! We then continued to be delighted when we actually managed to find a little warung selling warm beer with ice which we enjoyed as the sun began to set over the ocean. This felt like such a fitting way to end a perfect day that we thought it was probably time to end our adventure and head back, as sad as it was to leave such peaceful surrounds.
It was probably enough sun and sand for one day, so we rustled up our fisherman/tour guide/island hopping adventurer to take us back to the Belitung mainland. We were able to continue enjoying the sunset on the ocean as we sat in the boat going back, and soaked up the last of the rays before the chill of the night air came. We even made it back to the resort where we were staying to be treated to in time for the last glimpses of the huge red sun setting on the horizon- it was such a great way to end the most perfect day!
Saturday 28 April, 2012
It is always exciting when big name artists of my era come to town, so when i heard about Groove Armada, I just had to get tickets. Even though they were playing at the nightclub Dragonfly, which is not really my usual venue for hanging out, it was too good of an opportunity to miss. I nearly didn't make it to the show in the end, as I came down with a crazy Jakarta stomach bug the days before, but luckily, by time Saturday night came around, I was good enough to make it through the night. Amazingly. this led to me having a night out where I barely had anything to drink, which I was so happy for when I awoke fresh on Sunday. It is also testament to the DJ's ability to keep us grooving, seeing as they didn't come on til 1am and they played a two hour set, meaning it was a late night/early morning. That said, us old timers did feel the aches and pains from dancing non stop for two hours. As we were exiting the club and finding our way to taxis home, ailments consisted of sore knees, a sore back, aching feet, dry eyes and overall tiredness- with an average age of only 33 years, we all sounded like a bunch of geriatrics! This definitely aren't as easy as when we were in our 20s!
The Groove Armada boys did a fun set, and with a right-in-front-of-the-DJ-booth position, we were able to see up close all the mixing on the decks and the banter taking place between the two guys. The club was packed, and the smoke filled room was almost too much towards the end. The "fresh" Jakarta air outside was a welcome relief after the hours inside the room with hundrreds of patrons with very little ventilation.
The only sligtly disappointing aspect was there being no video or even much of a light show to add to visual to the audio. However, being able to groove away with good friends to some great tunes more than made up for any of that!
There really is so much beauty in nature. There are also imperfections which make it even more beautiful I think. I saw all these amazing beauties in nature within about 10 minutes of each other, while in the Bogor Botanic Gardens. When you open your eyes, these patterns and shapes are everywhere.
Just for something a bit different, and to share a bit more about my life in Jakarta, I am going to start posting a picture every day or so taken from my everyday life in the Big Durian. It has been over 2.5 years since I first came here, which is so hard to believe sometimes. Enjoy these pics that I will post!
Ah, macet. This was the first word I learned in Indonesian and it is one that is spoken at LEAST once every day. In fact, macet (pronounced MATCH-ET) is all that people can talk about in Jakarta. Macet- traffic jams- rule our lives in the capital and they really are notorious. One never knows how good or bad the macet will be on any given day or time of day- it is unpredictable, unruly and really unfun to be stuck in. It really is a part of life that has to be factored into every movement from At to B and changes the way everything gets planned! As horrendous as it is, life just wouldn't be the same without the macet in Jakarta. And what would everyone have to talk about?!
You see these carts either sitting on a busy kaki lima corner or being pushed along the streets everywhere you go in Jakarta. They are mobile foods carts, almost always run by men, where passer-bys or busy commuters can grab a snack or meal on the go. Common fare that can be enjoyed from a kaki lima includes nasi goreng (fried rice), mie goreng (fried noodles), gorengan (fried tempeh and tofu), buah es (fruit and ice dessert), and martabak (either sickly sweet or oily and savory pancake type snack). I always cringe when I see a kaki lima being pushed across a road through busy traffic, as ontrolling this cart must not be easy. Oh, and I love how kaki lima means "5 legs"....geddit?
The Kopaja buses are an iconic sight on Jakarta's busy streets. Many of them look like they are relics from Russian war time (hey, maybe they are!), with their retro style, and beat-up bodies. One of the main modes of transport arouond Jakarta, and costing just Rp 2000-4000 (20-40 cents) for most trips, they are also the cheapest option for getting from A to B. They are a pain in the arse for most motorists, as they kind of have their own road rules, which involve stopping wherever and whenevre they like to let on or let off passengers, and weaving every which-way on the road. They are big, they are mean, and they don't care about anything except getting passengers on-board. The workers hang from the doors, spruiking for passengers to alight the bus. There is a numbering system that still eludes me, which indicates the route and the direction the bus is going in. They are completely privatised, which also means they are run somewhat illigitimately, they are not well serviced, they notoriously break down, they are hot (only natural AC), and always crowded.
They can be entertaining- often buskers will jump on and squeeze themselves into a spot to play a few tunes on their banjo or mobile drum kit in the hopes for a few coins from the tired passengers. Often people just stare, not even blinking an eye of acknowledgement of the ruckus before them on the bus. They can also be dangerous. Robberies happen from pickpockets and those who are more overt- threatening passengers with knives or razors unless they cough up some money.
These Kopaja buses really do present the many sides of Jakarta- the good, the bad, the necessary, the needy, the ugly, the creative. Even though the city would be better without them (and some sort of rapid transport monorail line instead) they will remain for a long time to come, for better or for worse, and really, it wouldn't be the same without a Kopaja bus cutting you off at the last minute on the streets, bellowing black smoke in its wake!
The Bakrie Tower is quite an iconic building in Jakarta- it is the tallest building in the city and is interesting due to its very unusual shape. When standing below it and looking up, the tower looms from overhead, its odd angles causing shadows that make the building look like it is almost twisted. Owned by Bakrie, the powerful entrepenur- Indonesia's 5th richest person- it is like a symbol of his power in the capital, and particularly in the area where the tower is located. Bakrie is going nuts building apartment towers, a shopping centre, movie theatre, bars, restaurants and roads in a complete entertainment district. It is handy to have all of that so close by to where I live, and everyday I get to see this giant landmark of power and wealth.
This is the lighting display that is one part of the Epicentrum complex in Kuningan near where I live. I'm undecided if it is tacky or cool. It definitely stands out, and is perhaps a bit over the top. The whole Epicentrum complex is meant to be a modern lifstyle and art district, and every week it seems a new restaurant, bar or cafe opens.It is quite interesting seeing it develop from being an empty shell to one of the more exciting developments in central Jakarta. Bakrie sure does seem to know what he is doing in taking over the area of Kuningan where this and several other Bakrie funded developments are underway.
Almost daily, I walk through a graveyard that is a short cut route from my apartment to my gym. It is kind of ironic that the graveyard is actually one of the very few green spaces in the city. It is not only a peaceful walk that I take past the graves, but it is also quite pretty. Jasmine trees provide a pretty scent and pretty white flowers, other colourful tropical flowers also grow, an butteflies often dance around them. Many of the graves are well kept and often have bouquets left at them offering another burst of colour on my short walk. The path I take is through the Muslim graveyard- the Christian graveyard is the other half of the cemetary which are always separated in Indonesia- Muslims and Christians cannot be buried beside each other. Many locals don't like the apartments where I live, as they are superstitious and don't like the view out over the graves, whereas I quite like the greenery and quiet space that the cemetary provides. It is not a creepy place at all,and every day I notice a new headstone or an interesting grave depending on the pathway I take.
This photo is of one of the many mosques that can be seen (and heard) about Jakarta. It seems like most streets have a mosque, showing just what an important role religion plays in Indonesia. The calls to prayer, which often sound almost haunting, have become a normal sound to hear, and they often help me keep track of what time of day it is. Some of the mosques are quite grand in their size and appearance, while others are really just functional. The domed rooves of the mosques are a prominent part of the city scape of Jakarta and it would be strange without them on the skyline.
Trendy, new bars seem to open every week in Jakarta- all with fancier decor and more flashy and modern menus than the last. It is hard to keep up! A lot of the bars seem to be filled with poser types, who like to be seen where the rish, famous and fashionable hang out. It is hard to find a bar that is actually laid-back in its vibe. I definitely wouldn't call the new bar Otel Lobby one that is down-to-earth. In fact, it isquite the opposite. It has been expensively decorated- with lights such as the one in this photo, rugs, couches and other fashionable pieces of decor- and the pretty young things of Jakarta seem to like the place as a new hangout. For me, it is too dark, too loud, over-priced and lacking in any kind of relaxed vibe. Much too pretentious for me, though I do commend the owners for trying something new with their theme and for not sparing any expense on getting the look they want from their resto bar.
Here is a little snapshot from Playground Festival last Saturday night. The Gorillaz Sound System were headliners at the event and put on a light and sound spectacular! Can't seem to upload the movie I made, unfortunately, so you will have to settle for the sight part of the spectacular :-)
So lucky we have been the past few weekend in Jakarta that we have had lots of fab music coming to town. This past weekend was the Playground music festival, organised by the promoters Embassy. Back in 2009 when I'd only been in Jak a few months I went to my first of these festivals and saw Franz Ferdinand rock out an amazing two hour set. This year, I was excited by the headliners Gorillaz Sound System who were on the lineup, along with Kelis and Saint Etienne. This is the 5th Playground festival in Jakarta, and it certainly seemed to be as big as always. That said, the festival itself was on a pretty small scale, but it was nice and intimate.
We ended up missing St Etienne, who were playing a sundowner set- which turned out to be in the pouring rain (which is why we missed them). A little suprise bit of fun was the Silent Disco- I went to one of these at Glastonbury years ago, and I remember it being pretty fun. This was really well done- the two DJs and band were actaully on-stage, all at once, and it appeared like they had no sound. Once entering the silent disco "pen" (for want of a better word!), and had on headphones, you could then switch between three channels, which were each playing the three separate performances. It was kinds funny, with people around you all dancing or shouting along to different tunes- a little bit schitzophrenic really, but amusing all the same.
There was also an area called the Wonderbar Forest, with a stage that had some great lighting and lazers. Here we watched Aussie band Van She perform, until the arrogance of the lead singer became too much and we boycotted. We then found our way to the last bits of Kelis performing in a very, very tight green and shiny jumpsuit number. I was afraid her boobs were going to pop out of she moved too much or warbled too high!
Finally, we got to enjoy Gorillaz Sound System who put on quite the light as well as sound show. Very clever special effects with the visual and videocast really added to the performance, which didn't include as many of the Gorillaz classics as I would have liked to dance to. They still put on a good, energetiic show though- which was necessray for my weary body which definitely is not as young as it used to be when it comes to surviving music festivals :-)
I love my apartment complex! It is centrally located to the CBD and my work, and a short stroll to the new entrtainment hub where there are restauarants, cafes and and a movie theatre. It is also walking distance to my gym. My complex is well maintained and has a lovely pool, a small gym with sauna, and gorgeous gardens that you can walk around when you need a touch of the outside and some green. It was this weekend a year ago that I moved into Puri Casablanca, and I must say I have never looked back.
Most of the time, this view of the skyline is void of the huge mountain you can see in the picture. The smog and pollution is usually so thick on the horizon, that these mountains just don't exist. But every now and then, on a clear day when the wind has blown the pollution in just the right direction, these mountains appear, out of nowhere! It is always a big suprise when they are visible, as it is so easy to forget that Jakarta is surrounded by this mountain range. I remember the first time I saw the Puncak range, I was shocked to see such beautiful surrounds and was so suprised as I had no idea they existed until this one lovely clear day revealed them to me.
It is pretty easy to get into a routine in Jakarta- every day, the sun sets and rises at pretty much the same time. Being so close to the equator also means that we can often get treated to some gorgeous sunsets (and probably ssunrises, but I'm not one who enjoys getting up at 4:30am, and my apartment is west facing anyway...) I'm usually home by 6pm when the sun sets on another hazy Jakarta day, but that pollution can really make for some lovely colours in the sky come sunset time. There have been some beauties recently, with the whole sky on fire. I feel lucky to be able to enjoy the view of the skyline as nature paints such a beautiful background that feels like it is especially there for me to enjoy.
This is my latest fun way of teaching people the benefits of raw foods and just how easy it is to incorporate raw foods into your diet. I had a successful class on Saturday to a small group in my own kitchen. I taught them how to make a whole day's worth of meals and snacks, and as well a bunch of other useful tidbits about going raw. I can't wait for the next class on June 23! Find out more about eating raw foods and these Uncooking 101 classes at my website The Raw Warung www.therawwarung.com
North Jakarta is home to the docks and wharves where huge ships bring in supplies from the Java Sea every day. This has been where this commerce that keeps the city going has happened for hundreds of years. The wharf area has changed over time, and the current wharves are not in the exact location of the old ones. There is a place where yoou can go to the old wharves, and is now where all the exotic and expensive yauchts anchor. It is a nice place to sit and to watch the sunset, with a (sometimes stinky) sea breeze. It feels almost like being on holidays while there, ith palm trees also swaying. Almost like being on holidays- the wharves are still a far cry from being at Bali or even the close-by 1000 Islands!
How cool are these lillie pads? I have never seen ones so big as these! It was tempting to step onto the pads and start walking across them to cross this pond....but figured that might be a better ideas for a frog :-) I think my day at the Bogor Botanic Gardens released my inner child- nothing wrong with that, I say!
It was so nice to get back in touch with nature for the day my love and I went to the Bogor Botanic Gardens. Whenever I look up at tress as huge as this, I am in awe of their beauty and strength and power. This really was a HUGE tree!
We walked down a pathway in the botanic garden and it opened out into this beautiful grove. The dappled light of the sun shimmered over the autumnal leaves that carpeted the ground. It took my breath away, this scene, so magical. I had to remind myself I was just an hour away from the hustle and bustle of Jakarta city life, in this beautiful, peaceful place, so far removed from the chaos of the urban jungle.
I have written before, in this blog post: http://www.getjealous.com/blog.php?action=showdiaryentry&diary_id=624902&go=vagabonding about how impressively creative people in Indonesia can be in fidndng way to earn a living. Some of the ingenious jobs do make me chuckle, and this is another of them. These guys have set up a mobile photo printing booth. They will harrass tourists and ask to take their picture for a souvenir, and then they plpug their camera into their mobile printing device to print on-the-spot the photo they took. It is a very clever way to make some cash!
I'm kinda used to creepy crawlis, and they don't bother me too much (other than the humungous flying cockroaches that sometimes come into my apartment). However, I just can't find a way to like snakes. I don't want any harm done to them, and it used to horrify me to hear the stories of people drinking snake blood when I was in Vietnam, but I prefer them to stay away from my personal space. So it was kinda scary when we were strolling through the Bogor Botanic gardens and encountered this guy! He was obviously quite tame (if it is possible to actually "tame" a snake!) and used to humans, but I really did not want the thing anywhere near me! I swear that only in Indonesia wouold it be okay for people to bring along their pet snakes to the public park- there were several dudes with these giant slithering creatures- and it just had to be documented. I got close enough to take a snap and then quickly moved away again. I hate to think what would happen if they slithered away and escaped!
I couldn't help but chuckle at the irony. This sign, spotted at the base of Mt Merapi, is advertising the menu at the little warung/resto. Remembering that just a year and a half ago, in October 2010, Merapi exploded rather spectacularly, causing a mass evacuation of the area, milliojs of dollars of dmage as well sa hundreds of deaths. So, menu items at this resto include: Mie Goreng Vulkanic, Soto Awan Panas, Lele Shelter, and Nasi Putih Gotong Royong. Let me translate this to: Volcanic Fried Rice, Hot Cloud Soup, Shelter Catfish and Aid Work Steamed Rice. Yes, this was for real! Obviously all very tongue in cheek, but a little bit distasteful given the resto location....but a little bit humorous too....and I guess if you don't laugh, you cry. I know what I'd rather be doing, and I think this is the case for most Indonesian's too, who always seem to manage to see the lighter side of life.
Are these not the cutest, sassiest, savviest and coolest looking hermit crabs in the whole universe?! Spotted in a small market in near Mt Merapi, I couldn't help but swoon over these prettily decorated little creatures. When I was a kid, there was a time when my sisters and I kept hermit crabs, but it always ended in disaster foor the poor little guys (read: they died). I don't know what it was that we did wrong, but they wouold oft abandon their shells and we would find the sad carcass remains. We soon gave up on the crabs as pets, but I do wonder whether they would have been happier with shells that looked like these?! The dude at the market stall even sold little hermit crab houses to match their fluoro painted shells. The animal activist in me did have a fleeting thought of their happiness and healthiness, but the guy seemed to really look after them very attentively- yep all hundreds of them!- and was feeding them and handling them gently and almost affectionately....and their cuteness overcame any negative thoughts about their upkeep. Not every day yoou come across a tank full of fluoro coloured hermit carbs, is it?!
It seems kinda hard to believe that after over two-and-a-half years in Jakarta, and numerous journeys and adventures around Java, I still hadn't caught the train! So when we had a four day extra-long weekend come up in the national holiday calendar, thus giving us the luxury of time, it seemed like the perfect chance go on a journey by train. It also seemed like a great chance to go to my fiance's home town to see the city through his eyes and to meet the members of his family who I was yet to meet.
There is something about train journeys- they are somewhat romantic and relaxing. It is so much more enjoyable to get to the train station and to whoosh through the countryside than to have to haul arse through the macet to the airport, ensuring to get there with enough time to check-in, then suffering through the inevitable delays, flying in cramped economy class seats and then battling the touts at the terminal at the other end. For our train journey, it was just a matter of getting up and getting to the train station, waiting a while on the platform, then settling into our cushioned seats with heaps of leg room and a big window to peer out of, and settling in comfortably for about 8 hours, which seems AGES, but actually, the time went super quick!
The journey from Jakarta to Jogja passes through some lovely country and village scenes, loads of green rice paddies in various stages of harvest, forested areas, a couple of tunnels, and some more lovely countryside vistas. It was interesting to see how hard people who still farm for a living actually have it, watching the workers in the fields tending to the paddies in the open fields all day. Things still look very much like they are done traditionally on the central Java farms. I didn't spot any tractors or large machines, but did see loads of buffalos as well as other farm animals such as goats and sheep and of course chickens. It really was quite humbling, as I sat in my air conditioned carriage on my way to holiday in the city for a few days.
I couldn't help but notice how green much of the couontryside areas were, and the route really is such a beautiful one to pass through. Various mountains loomed in the distant horizon while forests or fields filled the foreground. It felt freeing to be out of the confines of the big city.
It was nice to be able to while away the time looking out the window and listening to podcasts and catchinng up on homework from my studies. It was a rare opportunity to really be able to chill out without the regular distractions.
Then, before I knew it, we had arrived at Jogja, by about 3:30pm, with which the end of my first Indonesian train journey ended and another part of the adventure began.
This shot of a moody storm brewing really sums up how Jakarta can feel sometimes. I think it shows how it can be oppressive and grey at times- often caused by the pollution and smog- as well as the power this city has to really control the moods of us people living here. On days like today, which were bright, clear and sunny after an evening of rain, the city can feel clean, washed of its sins and grime, and the mood in the office will be upbeat to match. But when the dirt starts to accumulate, as does the intensity, and people's moods start to match. It is like the heat and the noise and people's frustrations builds up to the moment when the storm starts to brew and then the energy becomes too much and the storm breaks, and the energy drops and all seems kind of calm again, and there is a clean slate to start over with again.
While in Jogjakarta, I got to experience a spectacle of lights, quite unexpectedly. Taking a walk after dinner, arouond the Kraton area of Jogja, and somehow, I arrived at a public square where I was suddenly surrounded by festival sounds and neon lights. It was rather bizarre and quite surprising! It seems that THE place to go and be seen on a Saturday night was this square, which was actually a roundabout, aroound which pedal-powered vehicles lit up with bedazzling fluoro lights went round and round. On the outer edge of the turning circle, loads of kaki limas selling the usual street fare were set up, and whistles, horns and bells were sounding from the neon bike-cars, the kaki lima stalls, the cars and motorbikes and from people using noise-making devices. It definitely had the air of a carnival. It was chaotic, it was a bit strange, it caused traffic mess, but I guess it was fun if you wanted to actually be there and among it. I was ok with being a bystander for a brief amount of time until I found my way out of the tangle of people and transport. I was happier once away from it all abn back into the peace of the old city proper. Maybe I'm just getting old!
One of my most favourite foods that can be found just about everywhere in Indonesia, is the coconut. Coconuts are like the ultimate food for life- the electrolytes in the water are amazingly nutritious, the flesh in young coconuts can be blended up to make a creamy drink, the hard coconut in old shells can be grated to be used in curries and sweet dishes, and the nectar from the coconut palm can also be made into a healthy sweetener. Coconut are prolific evreywhere in Indonesia, and a fresh one costs just five cents.
When we were in Jogja last weekend, it was stifingly hot- in the mid 30 degrees celcius. We had been shopping at the craft market in the middle of the day, and we were hot, grumpy and dehydrated. We both knew that the best and quickest solution to quench our thirst was a fresh coconut. So I looked out for the huge bunch of coconuts in front of a shop that would indicate a coconut mudah warung- we knew that one would appear. And sure enough, it did. So we stopped, grabbed a wooden stool, waited a few minutes while the bapak expertly used his cleaving knife to crack open the shell, and for the ibu to transfer the magical water to another vessel to mix with some ice and to scrape the juicy and soft flesh from inside the shell, before pouring the icy coconut water back into the coconut shell. She added a straw, and served. We sucked down the elixir greedily, and scooped out the flesh to also enjoy. We were revived- complete happiness was returned by a single coconut..
The usual time for me to enjoy a fresh, young coconut is on the beach. We also enjoyed a kelapa mudah while on Pantai Siung. Again, we sidled up to the warung, and asked for a pure coconut to enjoy. This was a simpler preparation that just involved the same expert removal of the outer skin and the cracking open of the coconut top with a sharp cleaving knife. Into the top went a straw and spoon for scooping flesh, and voila! Instant yummy and refreshing snack.
The ibu-ibu and bapak-bapak who open the coconuts do it with such flair and expertise that they make it look simple. I would say not to try this at home...but, well, I actually do open coconuts myself at home. The ones I buy already have the outser skin removed, so I just have to knock the top off the white outer shell with my sharpest knife. It is a skill that does require a special tapping and banging technique, but once mastered, is totally worth it to be able to enjoy the coconut, elixir of life.
Check out the technique for cracking open a coconut in the pics below....
An Indonesian custom is to bring back souvenirs, referred to as oleh-oleh, to the office and family members after going on holidays. Usually, oleh-oleh are small boxes of snack foods that are unique to each region of the country. It really is expected that these region-specific treats will be brought back to share around after holidaying.
The oleh-oleh to return to Jakarta with from Jogjakarta are sweet snacks called bakpia. Bakpia are a kind of pastry filled with mung bean paste. My description doesn't make this sweet sound all that amazing, but they are actually pretty tasty.
Anyway, my love wanted to go bakpia shopping on Sunday afternoon before we had to go to the airport. It turns out there is an entire street and adjacent alleyways that are completely dedicated to making bakpia. The streets are filled only with bakpia bakery shops next to other bakpia bakery shops,, sided-by-side. It would be overhwelming to choose which shop to buy the souvenirs from, if you were not with a local like I was. My sayang had a specific shop that he always goes to for buying his bakpia- apparently one of the original shops that set up shop in Jogja many years ago.
We got a bit of a royal treatment service from the baker who gave us some free samples while he filled our boxes with fresh-out-of-the-oven warm bakpia. We were able to try a new flavoured bakpia that was filled with pink sweet potato- quit sweet and yummy!
I loved the little alley where the shop was positioned- it was very traditional and I could imagine a ye olde Jogja of years past as I walked past the small shops. We were happy to have our boxes of oleh-oleh to take back to our offices on Monday- purchased at a very good price too.
On Monday at the office, I wasn't the only one bringing in treats for everyone- it being a long weekend, everyone had gone away. The lunch room table was filled with bakpia, wingkies from Semarang, martabak from Bandung, crunchy chip things from Aceh, coconut cakes from east Java....it was a kaleidoscope of oleh-oleh!
This is not graffiti but in fact an informational mural. I think this is a good way of spreading the word to the communities of important public service type announcements- not only do they get the message across simply, but they are also a colorful addition to a blank wall (that probably would get graffitied!). This particular notice is remidning parents to love their children and not to smack, and to discipline in more gentle ways!
Friday May 18, 2012
Jogja is renown for its relics such as Borobordur, Prambanan and the Royal Palace area of Kraton....but people probably don't think of Jogja for its beaches. In fact, there are a LOT of beaches close to the Jogja city centre, found just an hour or so in a car south-east of the city. Even though my fiance grew up in Jogja, he has not visited them all, being more likely to have visited the beaches that are closest to the city in his childhood. He had heard about a more remote beach called Pantai Siung, and he was dying to take me there on our trip to Jogja. So on our first full day in Jogjakarta, we borrowed the family car and went on a road trip. It was a great adventure for the both of us, each going to a new place for the first time. We had to head out of the city then up Bukit Bintang mountain range and then thorugh small villages in a region called Wonosari to get the area called Tepus which is the locale for Pantai Siung. Phew!
It was a really hot day, and it was so nice to finally arrive at the sea and to feel some salty, ocean air. The beach had very few people on it, so it felt like we had the whole place to ourselves to explore. There were fishing boats moored on the yellow sandy beach, and waves crashing at the shore line. Huge boulders dominated the view out to sea, their shape weather worn by the waves over thousands of years. There were little rock pools where we spotted heaps of hermit crabs of varying sizes, from the quite enormous to the smallest I have ever seen (seriously, the size of a small sugar ant with a shell that was almost too small to identify!). Palm trees swayed and softly brustled their leaves above us, and still the waves roared to shore.
The hot weather was perfect for drinking/eating a fresh coconut, so we ventured to the beachside warung and slurped the electrolyte goodness of the water and filled our bellies with the soft, yummy coconut flesh. We idled away the time as we watched the powerful ocean and enjoyed the peace and quiet and clean sea air.
Once ready to leave, we wound our way back in the car through the small villages towards the city again. We stopped along the way to enjoy a glass of es dawet which is made from palm sugar and coconut milk and filled with agar-agar and pandan flavoured sticky rice pieces which is the most refreshing drink on a steamy summer day. We stopped for a quick view at the lookout at top of Bukit Bintang, which gave us a 180 degree view out over the city. And all too soon we were back in the hustle and bustle of the city on a holiday weekend, feeling tired yet refreshed from the journey of our first day on holiday.
I've always thought of eidelweiss as being something found in European forests. I did not expect to find it in Indonesia! We were on top of Mount Merapi however, which was kind of like a field- a vast, volcanic one. The locals sell this eidelweiss which I assume they have coloured, to the tourists who pass through the area. It sure is a lovely burst of colour in an otherwise arid, and gloomy landscape of a recently exploded volcano. It is interetsing that this is one of the plants that has regrown naturally in the area too- along with the papaya trees and banana tress- hardy trees they are!
I think it is pretty cool that there is still a royal family living in Jogjakarta, and that it still wields influence over traditional society. There is an area of Jogjakarta that is known as Kraton, and it is where the palace and other royal residences are, among other tourist attractions.
This being a trip toured by my love, as opposed to the trusty Lonely Planet, I was led to Kraton, but not to the tourist hot spots. Instead, we went to the Sultan's House, which is a fully functioning residential home that the public can enter and walk around in and then sit down for a meal at!
It was pretty cool to walk around and look at the all the finery on display. There were paintings on the walls, trinkets from various countries, dinner sets and china ware by the cabinet load, expensive pieces of furniture, an entire gamelan set, tonnes of family snapshots hung and framed and various souvenirs and other artefacts all on-show. As I have found to be the case, a lot of the stuff, while no doubt expensive, and probably family heirlooms, I didn't think all of it was all that attractive- in fact, a few of the tea sets were downright ugly!
But it was still quite amazing that the home was opened up for the public to walk around and admire, and it was possible to capture a snapshot into the lives of this sultan and his family. There was a lot of wealth that was obvious to see. There was also evidence of both Islam (from the huge prayer room), and Javanese traditions which evolve around superstitions with spirits and ghosts (obvious from the shrine with offerings and the giant cage out front which is a symbol of protection). This blend of religion and spirituality is an aspect of life in Java that was interesting to see in practice in a real home.
After our snoop around the royal residence, we stayed for a "Java beer", which was a tea steeped in lemongrass and ginger. The food looked fairly average Indonesian fare, not anywhere near as inspiring as the house itself. I couldn't imagine opening up my home in such a way as this sultan has chosen to, but I think it is great that he is so open and proud and willing to share with the world the way that he and his family lives.
Since living in Indonesia, I have grown to appreciate batik fabric. I used to think it was so gaudy and over the top, but now I know that a good quality batik that has been made by hand is something to admire. I've also learnt a bit about the different patterns which indicate different regions of Indonesia.
A good quality batik does take time to make. It involves a process of marking the pattern onto the fabric, then tracing that with melted wax, which then dries, and the fabric is then dyed in the colours and more wax is layered on. Once the print is complete and dry, the wax is removed to create the complets batik.
I was able to see parts of the batik making process at the sultan's house, where there were fabrics in various stages of being made hung up in the house. Seeing the process in each step made me realise just how complex it is to make a good batik. It is good to see this traditional handicraft still being practiced in Indonesia, and hopefully it is a craft that continues to be taught into the future.
It was quite sobering to visit Mt Merapi, the site of the massiive volcanic eruption in October 2010. Even though the land has started to regenerate, with lots of greenery and tress growing across the volcanic ash, there were still many signs that this was a disaster zone. The makeshift warungs and houses along rhe main road up the mountains seemed hastily half built as a place of shelter or a spot to sell water and snacks to toursists.There was also the somber reminders of the deaths that occurred when the volcano erupted, with just the shells of burnt down houses sitting on the land that was once a family home. There were also burnt out vehicles which have been left on display as a bit of a toruist attraction, chunks of metal retrieved from the smouldering land, and showing just how intense the forceful the eruption must have been. There was evidence of the lava flows, and bare patches of land that were still left without tress, lifeless and grey expanses where the volcano had expelled its bowels onto the earth.
There was humour too, finding the light hearted side of life, in inevitable Indonesian style on the resto menu and some warung signs, as well creative things for sale such as eidelweiss. And there was the famous ingenuity making the most of the volcanic activity that had occurred. through small tour guide businesses set up by locals to get income by running motorbike or jeep tours.
It was an interesting way to spend a morning, and it rally brought home just ow powerful and unpredicatble nature can be.
On the same day that we explored Mt Merapi, we also toured the historical Prambanan temple complex. Jogja really does amaze me with its range of touristic places of different religious importance. The Buddhist Boroburdur and the Hindu Prambanan temples show that there is a long and interesting history in the region.
Prambanan is a series of temple towers with stairs leading up to an internal entrance where statues stood. Each statue was of one of the Hindu deities, the most prominent being the Shiva Temple. It was a busy afternoon at the temple, so there were people everywhere climbing and exploring the temples, which made the whole experience a little distracting.
However, it didn't detract from being able to enjoy the carved reliefs, which always amaze me to see when I visit these types of monuments- I can't help but imagine the craftsmen hundreds of years ago spending months making each carving, of which there are thousands altogether. Each hand-carved stone brick is a work of art in itself, and is quite awe inspiring really to know what humans are capable of achieving for the sake of their craft and religion.
My fiance's mum and brother were not really as interested as we were in the temple. They were readay to leave minutes after arriving, as they only saw the temple as 'rocks'. It is funny how different people can look at the same thing and see such completely different things!
The gardens around the temple were also expansive and were beautiful to walk through, and as we left at dusk, there was a lovely orange sunset over Prambanan- quite magical!
I'm actually writing this entry, because it is somewhat strange to me that my blog does not appear in Get Jealous searches for "Indonesia"....and I think it might if I have the word Indonesia as the first in a diary title. I have now lived in this interesting country for almost 3 years- wow! It was this time in 2009 that I was making preparations to leave Vietnam, and it was in mid-July that the bombings happened in Jakarta and people started to worry about where I was moving to. Never once did it cross my mind not to come here, it was like I was being drawn to this country and city, where I didn't know a soul. I loved Jakarta from the moment I arrived, and have been entranced by the culture and beautiful places that abound here.
Did you know that in the last census, the population of Indonesia across all it sislands was 237 million people!? This fact still astounds me. The city of Jakarta has a population that is about the same as the entire population of Australia- totally crazy and mind blowing! By 2035 the expected population is 315 million! Indonesia is actually the fourth largest country in the world when measured by population. Unfortuunately, a lot of the population is living in poverty- and this is despite having a rich abudnance of natural resources. This is a rather sad state of affairs that more than half the population earns about US $2 per day, yet billions of dollars worth of resources are mined and exported every day.
Did you know that Indonesia is made up of 17,508 islands! About 6,000 of these islands are inhabited by people- I'd love to claim one of these far flung islands as my own :-) You probably know that Indonesia is in the tropics, but did you know the temperature rarely changes for the entire year? This is because the islands are located a few degrees from thr equator. Usually it is a minimum of 27 degrees celsius and a max of 30 degress. I have experienced Jakarta when it was "cool" at about 25 degrees, and also when it has been much hotter- about 35 degrees (it is stifling!).
Did you know that Indonesia has the second highest level of biodiversity (a measure of the number of plant and animal species) in the world? This doesn't suprise me! In the walsk through national parks and diving I have done, there has been a huge array of interesting things to see. Some of the rare creatures found in the archipelago include a miniature deer, fish that climb trees to catch insects and spiders that catch and devour small birds in giant webs- super cool! Less cool and more intimidating is that this country spreads over the notoriou "Ring of Fire", situated in Western Pacific. There are over 400 active volcanoes across the country and there are on average 3 earthquakes per day on any given place. I've experience three small shakes since I lived here- two in my frst month! Very scary!
I just love the local food ingredients (though I am not a huge fan of the local dishes) which are used commonly in dishes here- spices, chillis, coconut milk- yum! I also LOVE tempeh which is a very cheap and very delicious protein source- a food made from fermented soybeans, and is traditionally made using a very secret recipe that is passed down through families. I love that a block of tempeh here costs about 20 cents from any market- in Australia, a small block would have to be purchased from a health food store for about $8!
It is clear that Indonesia has captured my heart. In fact, my love affair for Indonesia literally extends to a true love affair, my Indonesian fiance who I will marry next year on one of the beautiful beaches of Lombok. Looks like Indonesia is going to be home for a while...
All the way back in June, I visited Bali to visit friends and to indulge in raw foods. It was an amazing weekend! I feel very grateful to be living in a place that is so close to the beautiful island of Bali. It would be even better to actually be able to live in the island paradise, but for now, short visits to getaway from the Big Durian are enough to nourish my soul. Not only is it beautiful and peaceful on Bali, but it is a mecca for organic, whole and raw foods in Indonesia. Usually, I am relegated to my own kitchen to make my raw food meals, but when I am in Ubud, I can relax and let the chefs of the various cafes that feature raw foods to tantalise my taste buds. I was really looking forward to eating restaurant made raw food all weekend- and gave myself the mission to gorge. I'd like to say that I succeeded!
My sayang and I opted for the red-eye flight to Bali rather than the mad dash on a Friday evening to the airport. So we were a bit bleary-eyed when we arrived at our accommodation, the Swasti Eco Cottages. This was a beautiful place on a one-hectare garden space near the Monkey Forest, which even had its own organic vegetable garden which supplied a lot of the fresh fruits and herbs to the restaurant. It is a chemical free resort that used recycling bins and only natural products. I was also very happy to see some raw foods featured on the menu at the restaurant, and my raw food gorging began with a delicious cashew nut milkshake made with raw cacao and banana. My love had a similar shake that featured mint, which was maybe even more delicious than my choice (don't you just hate it when your choice isn't the best!)
I was so happy to do some shopping while in Ubud. I grabbed some products from Utama Spice, a local company that makes natural skincare made from pure and natural ingredients and using traditional Balinese recipes. I love these products, so I stocked up on the body lotions, liquid soaps, bar soaps, lip balms and incense that I was starting to run low on. Yay! Then I stopped into Bali Buddha and did a little happy dance to find agave, raw cocoa butter, cacao nibs, maca, natural nut butters and even buckwheat groats- all things I cannot source from anywhere in Jakarta. It is strange that a city of 15 million people has no shop that is anything like Bali Buddha which is in a small island town of a few hundred thousand people. In any case, I walked away with a lighter wallet but a bag heavy with wares that make this little raw foodie very happy!
Sunday's lunchtime feasting happened at Sari Organik, another of my favourite places to dine in Ubud. Set in the rice fields, it is in a tranquil location and features organic food for all its menu items. I loved my pumpkin salad and tumeric and aloe vera juice! My friends also loved their borag salad which was a colourful plate of beet and carrot and tomato on a bed of greens.
My final eating spot for the whirlwind weekend was at Soma Cafe, which had an entirely veg menu, featuring raw foods. They also had a small shop where I picked up irish moss, another impossible to find ingredient in Jakarta, as well as cacao beans AND an entire fresh cacao pod!
The food here was tasty, but the portions were quite small. I ordered a live pizza which was more like a snack or starter bruschetta than a main...so I ordered a papaya salad and a raw coco loco berry smoothie as well- all were delicious!
I can say that I definitely achieved my goal of gorging on raw food all weekend. Even though I gorge on raw food most of the time, it is nice to have the food prepared by another person and to be able to sample some gourmet raw meals. It was inspiring to taste new flavours that I can now try to replicate, as well as to be part a burgeoning community of raw foodies for a weekend. As always happens after a fun weekend in Bali, I am now dreaming once again of living in Ubud, where living the lifestyle I want to have would be so much easier than in Jakarta. That said, there is a small group of us in Jakarta too, and I am meeting new people all the time who have an interest in living a wholesome and healthy lifestyle. I'm hoping that the workshop series I'm running this month will also be an inspirational experience. But for now, I get to enjoy all my wares brought back from Bali and can be grateful that there is access to such amazing products- and if it takes a trip to Bali to get them, well, I can definitely think of worse places to have to go to for a shopping run!
August 17-26, 2012
It really was such a fun time! This year, instead of going home to Australia over Christmas and New Year, which seems to be a stressful time to be landing at home, I decided to make my annual visit over the Indonesian Idul Fitri holiday period. This meant being able to go away when the whole country was also on the move, and it meant I coould take my darling fiance homw with me also, to show him his first tastes of my beautiful country.
It is something we don't do often enough- playing tourist in your home town. I'm a very good tour guide of the cities where I live for visiting friends and family, but never have I shown someone around Australia. After a lot of plannng and itinerary writing, I came up with what I consider to be a pretty darn good tour of south-east Queensland- especially seeing as we only had ten days.
The first five days were spent on the Gold Coast with my mum and dad and sister and nephew. We ate at the beach club, visited Currumbin Sanctuary, had a beer on the cliffs at Currumbin, visited the Q1 tower for a daytime/sunset/night-time aerial view of the Goldy, went to a winery at Mt Tamborine and did some obligatory shopping. It was a hectic few days, but also fun, and so great to be able to spend time with my sister and nephew too.
The next two days was spent at the gorgeous Moreton Island, just 1 hour boat ride from Brisbane. This part of the trip was a highlight for me- despite landing on the island the same day as 550 Indonesian tourists! Who knew they all went there for the holdiays?! It was still fun though, especially being able to feed the wild dolphins (which I managed to do twice because I am a bit sneaky!). We also went on a whale watching tour and we were absolutely blessed to see 25 whales, several which breached right in fron of the boat, and two who played about a metre from the back of our boat. Truly amazing!
After our little island getaway, we stayed up in Brisbane with my sister and soon-to-be-brother-in-law and niece. This segment of our time in Oz was dedicated to spending time with my friends. So I got to catch up with my besties, and at the same time, show Pio the sights of Bribane. We did an epic walking tour that started in New Farm Park, took us on a CityCat to Southbank for a stroll and lunch, then a walk through the arts precinct and over a cool new pedestrian bridge to the City Square and the Mall and Riverside to catch a CityCat back to the park. Phew! The best part was the amazingly gorgeous winter sun we were spoilt with, and the delicious big, blue skies and warmth.
We also managed to squish in a Turkish themed dinner, drinks in the city, a day out at Samford and a morning tea at Kangaroo Point with my closest mates in just a few days. It was rejuvenating and fun and so great to reconnect..
The last day was spent at the Mt Coot-tha Lookout and Botanic Gardens, then a night out in the Valley over cheap and cheerful Vietnamese with darling Drew- a last hurrah in the city my heart calls home.
In tens days, we were shown a great time and given some wonderful hospitality by all. It was a lovely trip back to Oz, without the usual Cristmastime stress, with perfect weather and a whirlwind catchup with my peeps and family. It is never long enough, but better than no time at all!
Trip taken: 26-28 October, 2012
It was a long weekend and we both needed to get out of the city for a few days. Figuring out where to go was not easy- this was because we decided to get away at the last minute, meaning plane tickets were expensive and other places we might go to were all booked out.
Then Pio came up with the idea to visit Sawarna, a beach he had heard about in West Java. Apparently the road trip adventure would take us to West Java where we would find a little untouched hideaway beach- which sounded appealing enough to me.
Finding out information about Sawarna was not easy- a few blogs with a bit of useful info was all we had to rely on. Luckily one blogger out there had listed some contact details for home stays, so we were able to make a reservation before we left, and google maps showed us the way. Other than this info, we had no idea what to expect. Yay, this was a real adventure!
We left Jakarta in the pre dawn. We knew from a prior trip to Pelabuhan Ratu that there would be traffic jams along the way if we left too late. It was actually the perfect time to leave as our journey was really smooth. We stopped a few times along the way to admire a scenic lookout and take a snap of the awesome landscape, or for the loo. It was a really pretty journey, though the road was not in the best condition and was often winding as we climbed the mountain range and along the coast line, having to avoid huge pot holes in the road. We also weren't able to stop for fuel, as every petrol station was closed for the public holiday- luckily we had enough gas to get us to our destination, though we were cutting it pretty tight!
The trip took 5.5 hours in total- which might seem a long time, but really it didn't feel like so long, I thikn because we didn't get stuck in any traffic, so we flowed the whole way to the town called Ciawi. It is when stuck in bumper to bumper traffic that goes nowehere fast (like we encountered coming home!) that a road trip can become tedious and frustrating.
We had to park the car in a designated spot on the side of the main road, and were met by Pak Yono, the guy we had booked accommodation through. Turns out he was like the village boss who managed all the guest houses and home stays in the village. He led us with our bags over a rickety bridge that took us over a river into the village. Our home stay was a few hundred meters from the bridge and was called Imelda's.
The homestay was a expected- simple, but clean. We had already arranged for room and board, meaning three home cooked meals a day, and we also asked for all vegetarian, so we didn't have to worry at all about the food meeting our dietary requirements. This was really convenient actually, and it was nice to have meals ready made for us, and it was probably the best way to go, as the village itself didn't have a lot of facilities such a restaurants or cafes.
After a yummy vegetarian lunch, we went for our first explore. We strolled about 500 meters through the village, which is mostly small homes, some converted to home stays, and small shops and warungs, interspersed by rice paddy fields. It was the perfect example of the simple Indonesian kampung life- a far cry from the big smoke of Jakarta.
The pathway we were on then led us out to the beach which was a massive expanse of golden sand. The Indian ocean waves crashed wildly onto the wide shoreline. It was stunning! The best bit was that it was not crowded with people at all- other than a few locals hanging out at the beach huts, and some surfers in the sea, it was like we were the only other people on the beach.
We took a walk down the beach which then led us to one if the famous landmarks of the area- Tanjung Layar. The significance of this spot is two large rocks jutting up out of the ocean, surrounded by rock polls and mud flats. The rock formation is really unusual, and quite beautiful, with a natural sea wall surrounding the huge rocks which the waves crashed against wildly. It is a truly a unusual landscape, quite mysterious in a way.
We parked ourselves in one of the beach hut pavilions and got ourselves fresh coconuts to slurp and scoop- the best thing to refresh with on a hot day in Indonesia. Then we moved onto beer ;-) it was a lazy afternoon, and completely relaxing. Just what we both really needed.
We pretty much went on repeat the next day- after a bit of a lie-in and a huge filling breakfast at the homestay, we returned to the beach and the Tanjung Layar area. On the second day it was busier with more day-trip tourists, so instead of parking ourselves in a beach pavillion, we went for an explore.
We wandered across the rock pools to a secluded beach area and took lors of pictures of the photogenic rock pools and rocky formations that were throughout the area. It was lovely to meander out in nature, with fresh sea air, an unusual landscape to admire, and no time frame for anything. I love spontenaity when it comes to a fairly unplanned trip away.
We had a late lunch on the second day and then returned to the beach just in time to catch a beautiful blue-toned skyline that was filled with the firy red setting sun. The full moon rising overhead created a lovely atmosphere. The violent Indian ocean waves crashed against a high wall sandbank on the shore, a reminder of just how powerful the sea can be.
We grabbed a beer at one of the beach huts and hatched exciting future plans, while totally chilling out in the most beautiful of settings. It seems that not a lot goes on at Sawarna once the sun sets- a few surfers linger at the beach huts for beers, some attempts are made at building a bonfire to drink by, while most visitors retire to their homestay to have an early night. This included us- it is rare for us to go to bed by 10pm, but it was really nice to be able to do so!
I imagine that this part of West Java is very similar to how Bali might have been in the 60s or earlier 70s before developers took over and made it the tourist hub that it is now. if it was easier to get to, I think more people would go to Sawarna and it actually has a lot of potential for investment. With some basic infrastructure and facilities, Sawarna could become a really popular destination- not just for surfers and those wanting to get off the beaten track, but also for those wanting a comfortable getaway from the city.
The next morning we got up and found we had no watere- apparently the well had gone dry. I wonder how often this sort of thing happens- it was pretty inconvenient, especially as we were using a manual "flush" squat toilet, and really wanted to mandi!
We packed up our gear, and just for fun before we left for our return jounrey to Jakarta, checked out some land that was for sale in the village. It is always interesting to keep an open mind, and this area certainly has a lot of potential for a guest house/hotel to cater for the steady flow of weekend visitors who are increasing in number to the area.
Reluctantly, we departed, and then began what became an epic journey home to Jakarta. First stop was to find a gas station, which was actually over 70km away! Luckily we made it with our almost empty tank. We took a longer route back, a bit by mistake, which was winding and narrow as we went back down the mountain range from west Java. We stopped for a cup of tea at a little roadside warung to stretch our legs and to get a better look as a rock mine that had carved a huge hole into the mountain range, creating quite an unusual site. It is amazing what humans have the power to destroy and how ugly we can make otherwise beautiful natural landscapes become.
By the time we got to the highway, we had reached a standstill in the traffic. It was about an hour and a half stuck in complete macet, and it was dark by the time we had reached any speeds on the highway back to Jakarta. It ended up taking us 8 hours from Sawarna to our apartment getting home! Crazy!
Other than the long return trip, the road trip advenure to Sawarna was really relaxing, and a lovely getaway spot from Jakarta for a long weekend. I would definitely go back again.
November 15-18, 2012
I was craving the underwater and getting into my scuba gear so badly, it had become a yearning. It had been 10 months since I last got under the sea and blew bubbles underwater and experienced my bliss, so I was long overdue for a diving holiday. The extra long weekend in Indonesia for Islam New Year provided the perfect chance to get away and to explore some new oceans scapes.
Originally I'd thought about Flores, but then we decided it would be great for Pio to learn to dive so we could go on diving holidays together, so I started looking at other places that would be a good diving experience for me and for him.
In the end, we decided upon north-west Bali's Menjanngan Island (Deer Island). I'd been given advice that the wall dives here were beautiful, and the seas were warm, so it seemed ideal to me. We also found the Waka Shorea resort, which is an eco resort located in the national park. It looked rustic and totally the sort of place where we could escape Jakarta for a few days.
The trip from Denpasar to the Waka took us almost 5 hours in a car. It was an epic journey, and another reason why this spot is a good one for a longer holiday than just a weekend.
The drive, though long, was a scenic one. We stopped along the way at lookouts to admire the views of mountains and lakes at Bedugal, drove through clouds in Gianyar and enjoyed the beauty of Bali's rice paddy fields as we moved east and then the very dry fields that seemed to predominate as we head further nother. It made me realise just how much variety of landscapes there is in Bali and how it can appeal to so many different people.
We eventually arrived at the Waka Shorea- but it turned out to be just the greeting place for guests, who then get shuttled to a small harbour to be taken on a half hour boat ride to the actual resort. It was a bit confusing, as we were still on the mainland even though we had travelled by boat to arrive at the resort.
Etched in the concrete at the reception area it said "Welcome to the Jungle", which it turned out definitely to be where we were. It was very dry, the wet seaosn not yet having started, so the expansive blue ocean provided quite a contrast to the brown sparseness of the land. The trees were filled with black, long-tailed monkeys, deers wandered aimlessly around the pathways, and we even had an encounter with a wild pig during our stay!
Our cute bungalow had a nice view out over the sea, and it was decorated in an eco-rustic style. I always love having a canopy bed, though here one was a necessity to keep out the critters. The room was simple but cosy and the bathroom had a slight morroccan influence with terracotta tiles and a colourful mozaic.
On our first dinner, we were starving from the long travelling day and not much food along the way. However wew encountered our first problem with the food on offer at the resort- and the only food we could buy at the secluded resort- was the limited veg options. Even though I had contacted the resort ahead of time to let them know our dietary needs, there weren't many things to select from, and some of the nicest sounding dishes- a veg curry for example- had sold out as they didn't have any coconut cream. Slightly annoying! We managed to find the dishes we could eat- not the healthiest options- and stuck with those for the rest of our trip.
The staff were really sweet in helping us though, and it was a nice touch every afternoon to be served an afternoon tea on the beach as part of our stay. They also helped us to arrange transport back to the mainland one night so we could visit a friend staying at another north-west Bali dive resort.
Talking about diving- I couldn't wait to get the kit on and get diving! It was good that another couple were there to join us on the dive boat- he was my buddy while she was just snorkelling. Pio went with the dive instructor, and he learnt the basics for his first discovery dive. I couldn't have asked for a better first dive- perfect crystal clear viz, diving into water where 5-6 sharks were swimming, a lovely drift dive along a wall and then a sandy reef to explore. The second dive was also gorgeous- tonnes of beautiful fish, a colourful and vibrant reef and the most gently of currents. Perfect!
Pio was a bit worried on hia first dive, but likes his second dive a lot more. He went out again our second day and really got into diving- thank goodness he enjoyed it! The second day of diving for me at Menjanngan wasn't as good as the first, though the wall we were diving across was beautiful and contained a lot of sea life, plus the shallow reefs were stunning. It was good to get my diving fix!
Our four days away was a really nice break. Staying in the jungle definitely felt like a true getaway from it all, and it was worth the long journey to be able to experience a new part of Bali. The beach was beautiful, the weather was clear and hot (maybe a bit too hot!) and other than the lack of veg food choices, the resort was lovely.
I definitely want to go back sometime to dive with the whale sharks that come through Menjanngan during the April season and anytime I feel like going to Bali but being away from the masses, this area is a great choice.
Over the coming days and weeks, as I start to go through the 6GB (!!!) of photos that I took while in Burma, I will re-tell in more detail about our trip from Yangon to Inle to Mandalay and to Bagan. In the meantime, this is a little summary that myself and Pio put together on our last night in Burma as we reflected on the fun memories of the past two weeks. It will give you a little idea of what we got up to over the two weeks as we explored the amazing land of Golden Temples.
Best Hotel: This was easy! Definitely the Golden Island Cottages in Inle Lake. Our beautiful wooden bungalow set on stilts over the water had a huge room, lovely bathroom with a bath, amazing sunset views from our balcony and lovely staff.
Best Boat Ride: We took quite a few boat rides on this trip, of various lengths and on different rivers. The best was on Inle Lake, which was a day-long trip around Inle Lake on a wooden, motorized longtail boat.
Best Pagoda: We went to a lot of pagodas. They were all amazing in their own way, but the best would have to be Shwedagon in Yangon which we visited on our first day. It is huge, and visiting it is quite a spectacle of sights and sounds that I have never experienced anywhere else before. It was a lovely way to spend a sunset and was a great taster of what was to come in the weeks that followed.
Best Bagan Temple: This ancient city of thousands of relics was breathtaking. We couldn’t agree on which of the centuries old temples we liked the best. Pio’s favourite was Sulamani Pato and mine was Dhammayazika Paya. Millions of photos of Bagan to come :-)
Best Myanmar Meal: I really quite liked the local food, which I’d describe as subtle, tasty and oily. Not as spicy as Indonesian, not as light as Vietnamese and without the coconut of Thai food, it is definitely a cuisine in its own right. I will write a blog entry all about the food. My favourite local restaurant meal for lunch was at a little family run resto in Monywa and best dinner was at a place we were taken to by our driver in Mandalay. Pics and details to come :-)
Biggest Buddha: With its majority Buddhist population, expect to find a country filled with pagodas, temples, monasteries and of course Buddha statues! Without a doubt, the biggest was in Monywa- the Bodhi Tatung complex boasts one of the world’s biggest Buddhas, measuring 424ft. We even got to climb up inside him!
Most Charming Moment: Sitting at the vegetarian cafe in Mandalay and down in the alley below the balcony, young novice nuns chant as they walk down the alley collectinbg alms, pink robes flowing in the wind and brown umbrellas held high to protect their heads from the sun. Magical :-)
Favourite Mode of Transport: I found the horse and carriage we took to see the sights of Bagan for two days was unusual, but fun and great for the environment and views. A bit slow, but that was half of the charm.
Best Driver: We found all of our transport providers by asking around on the streets. We were super lucky to find some awesome driver-guides who made our time in Burma really memorable. Our jeep driver in Mandalay was particularly helpful and attentive and goes recommended to anyone who finds themselves in Mandalay.
Most Unexpected Fun: A little day trip to Mingun was surprisingly enjoyable. It involved a boat ride down the Ayerarwady River to get to, and once there we found ourselves in a delightful arts village that was also home to three historical temples and a giant bell. Then on the way back to the city, we saw the very rare Irrawaddy Dolphins playing in front of our boat!
Most Random Night Out: They say you either love them or hate them….we remain somewhat indifferent. The Moustache Brothers performance that we went to for some controversy was more cheese and dance than comedy and parody.
Worst Experience: Luckily, most of our holiday was amazing. But, the incident when we unwittingly got into a taxi in Mandalay Airport that was being driven by a drunk driver is not being listed as one of our fond memories. We realized that he was drunk when he was driving zig-zag over the road, and promptly got him to stop the car and we got out. It all worked out ok in the end, but it was scary and a rather disturbing way to arrive in Mandalay.
Longest Wait: Our flight from Heho (Inle) to Mandalay was delayed almost four hours. However, the reason was because an Air Bagan flight had crashed near the runway earlier in the day, so the airport was closed and flights were cancelled while the remains of the pane were cleared. This was also quite disturbing and I was happy to be flying on a different airline.
Cheesiest Music: Oh yes, we got to hear some pretty cheesy tunes on our travels. The winner of the best cheese is to the Bagan Thiripyitsaya Sanctuary Resort where we spent our NYE. The band doled out some great best-of-the-70s tunes to help us see in the new year.
Best Performance: I have to give kudos to the lovely staff of the Golden Island Cottages who performed a lovely Christmas concert on Christmas Eve. The best tune was probably song wishing us a merry Christmas sung to the tune of Happy Birthday and the Christmas Carol that sang involving placards that spelt out words. A lot of effort, especially for people from the Shan minority who don’t even celebrate Christmas in their culture!
Best Setting for a Restaurant: The Inthar Heritage House on Inle Lake. There were lakeviews and a gorgeous garden set in a traditional heritage house that had been lovingly restored. It was also home to Burmese cats who are part of a breeding program to increase their numbers, and resto guests can give them pats and cuddles and play with them.
Most Expensive Beer: There were three local beers that we tried: Mandalay Beer, Myanmar Beer and Dagon Beer. All were quite tasty! The price of beer varied dependent on whether it was a bottle, a can or in draught, and of course by location. Beer gardens were cheapest (two small draughts cost about 50 cents), at restaurants we would get a big bottle for about $2 or $3. The most pricey beer was a Dagon draught we enjoyed at the Strand Hotel in Yangon which cost $3 each for a half pint. It was worth it for the peace, quiet and air conditioning.
Most Scary Incident: This one beats our drunk driver in Mandalay, and those who know me will not be surprised that it involves monkeys! We were walking down Mt Popa Pagoda’s stairs when a monkey tried to rob me of my water bottle. Before we knew it, we were surrounded by a family of monkeys baring their teeth and blocking our path until we gave the bottle to them. One clever monkey promptly opened the bottle and sculled the litre of water in about 20 seconds flat. The others in his colony wanted the same but we didn’t have more to placate them. We managed to get past them in the end, but I was petrified I was going to be attacked by one of the cheeky things!
Luckiest Moment: Winning one of the lucky door prizes at our NYE party! # 172 brought me a beautiful lacquer tray and some Burmese organic coffee. Then later that night we scored really cheap transport home when some random local dudes drove us back to our hotel at a third of the price the hotel was going to charge us. Yay to us!
Best Sunset: This was tough to decide as we saw many from atop of hills and mountains and temples and pagodas- but the winner was the sunset we saw on a sandbar on the Ayerawaddy River looking across to Bagan and the mountains behind. It was stunning!
Most Photogenic Place: The U-Bein Bridge- which boasts being the world’s longest teak footbridge is charmingly photogenic. We took early morning and sunset shots of the bridge as its pedestrians crossed over it. The bridge and the lighting and the beautiful lake in front of it with a full moon above and a red hot yellow-orange sun causing shadows and bursts of light led to many photographs being taken.
Stay tuned to this place for the more detailed stories of our trip!
I can't believe it is now almost August, and I STILL haven't uploaded my blog entries or shared my pictures from my trip to Burma at Christmas and New Year!! It has been on my list of things to do all year, and still it nags at me. I also still have to post entries about my trips to Bali, Nusa Lembongan, my wedding on Gili T, my honeymoon on Lombok....and soon I am off to Sri Lanka and that trip will also definitely need to be shared.
In order to try and catch up on all of this so that I can remember forever all the fun times I have had, and in order to share with the world of my experiences, I am going to try my best to play catch up.
This might mean I post more pictures than useful information, or my entries will be short reviews more than deep explanations. But better that I get all the stories out than have them lost to my (not so great) memory forever.
To start the ball rolling, I share a collage of pictures from Burma- a taster of what is to come in the next few weeks as I go back in time and share about the amazing Burma (and other beautiful places!)