Picking out a new DSLR can be truly mind-boggling, especially if you’re a first-time buyer. Not only do you have to decide between brands, but you must decide between versions, lenses, and accessories – all of which can lead to a daunting experience. However, the goal of this post would be to help make that decision a bit easier. Why Nikon? I’ve been shooting Nikon since I first got into DSLR photography about 5 years ago. When I bought my first camera (a D5000), the decision was a relatively simple one: my dad had some Nikon lenses and I didn’t have much money! Now several years after I’m not as unhappy with that conclusion as ever. Nikon’s consistent lens mount size over the years allows you to use lenses going back to the 70s and 80s on many of Nikon’s hottest DSLR bodies – meaning you can get quality used glass, at a cost that is comparatively inexpensive. That’s a conversation for another day, however. The bottom line is, you’re going to get a camera that is great with an excellent assortment of lenses with either Nikon or Canon. You’ll be around them frequently, and if you have friends or family that shoot one or the other, that’s a good enough reason for me to pick either brand. But since I shoot Nikon, today’s post is about the best way to select the best Nikon camera for you all! Get Past the Hype: Things that Don’t Matter At the time of this writing Nikon has 4 cameras that you may be deciding between: The D3200, D5200, D90 or D7100. These are the most up to date models, and in some cases you might be considering one that’s a generation old in order to save money – we’ll talk about that. Yet before we begin going into the individual models, I’d rather start out by listing a couple things which you should absolutely stop paying attention to – by doing thus, you’ll make your choice a lot simpler. Megapixels Odds are if you haven’t bought a camera in some time, the very first thing you look at when picking out a camera is the megapixel count. Cease. Please. Any new camera will have more than enough megapixels for what you want today. Even one on the lower range that's 10-12 will have enough detail for you to blow up your images to poster size with no major problems, and seriously, how frequently are you doing that? Once you reach 24 megapixels the files sizes arehuge, although it may be pleasant to have the flexibility. On my D7100, I rarely, if ever, shoot at the highest quality level, merely because it just isn’t practical. Complete Frame Vs. Cropped Frame New to photography? Afterward you do look at a full frame sensor. For a Nikon camera, in other words you can instantly stop paying attention to the D600, D800, or D4. Why? They’re enormous. They’re not cheap. And unless you’re a professional shot, they’ll be overkill for what you’re looking for. So save your money for some new lenses and quit thinking about those entirely. You should be aware of that Nikon’s most affordable DSLR the D3200 has image quality that in most shooting situations will be close to as good as that on their most expensive camera, the D4 to help set your mind at ease even more. Other things professionals want, and most of what you’re getting with cameras that are expensive is more alternatives, on camera controls and you likely don’t. Video This may matter for a select few of you, but for most of you, it should be a non issue. Bottom line, have you ever really shot on video on a DSLR? Most beginners haven’t. It’s not simple. The sound is terrible, the auto-focus doesn’t function in an usable manner, and it’s nothing like using your telephone or a camcorder. Take a look at a pocket camera like the Canon S110 – which is easy to use and shoots excellent video if you desire a good camera that does video. Then a DSLR can be an excellent means to break into a more professional video set up, knowing what you’re doing and have some additional equipment. But if all you want to do is movie your children, you’d be best searching elsewhere. Does all that make sense? Amazing, glad we’ve got that cleared up. Now, let’s get you a camera! Discovering the Best Camera for Your Needs As opposed to regurgitate all the technical specs of each camera for you, I’m going to look at the different kind of users of Nikon cameras and after that assist you to find a camera based on what you identify with the most. Best Picture Quality at the Cheapest Price Possible? The quality from an entry level DSLR will rival that of their more expensive counterparts, as I mentioned before, for most applications, in great light. So all you actually want is good image quality and aren’t needing to break the bank if, then pick up the Nikon D3200. You can probably locate the elderly D3100 that is still a terrific camera, or refurbished versions, if you’re extremely concerned about price. If you go with that, you’re losing quality is built by some from the higher end cameras, and the screen is a much lower resolution than the newer model. Don’t get the D3000, there was very notable about it. Seasoned DSLR User Desiring to Update, Without Costing Too Much? Let’s confront it, cost is an issue for most of us. So let’s say you’re prepared to move past your D3100 or D5000 you’ve had for a couple years, to something more representative of your experience degree. You’ve got a few lenses, but still don’t want to overspend. Consider a D7000. The image quality will be comparable to the D7100, and many of the upgrades that were made will be negligible to the average user, although it’s not the latest camera on the block. I’ve seen body only D7000 going for as low as $649, which is almost half the cost of a new D7100. The D7000 is a big step up in terms of features and build quality from any one of the cameras in the 3000 or 5000 line, thus don’t shy away from this just because it’s a couple years old. It ’s also worth noting that while it’s 5 years old, the D90 is widely available and is a great camera for the price. It lacks some of the characteristics of the newer D7000 line, but is an excellent step up from Nikon’s entry level cameras in terms of controls. Starting HDR Photographer? You can do HDR with any camera that enables manual controls to be establish by you, nevertheless if you’re serious about it, you’re going to want something that has bracketing assembled in. This means your camera can automatically shoot 3 pictures at varying exposures, typically one at normal exposure, then one underexposed, and eventually one over exposed. After that you can use HDR software to create one perfectly exposed picture. The D3200 doesn’t do bracketing, thus for the beginning HDR photographer you’ll need to pick up a D5200 or if cash is more of an issue a D5100. A couple of years ago I learned HDR on my D5000 while and it was a great intro camera. It had a menu system that I was used to with a point and shoot, but a customizable function button that let me easily turn on bracketing. Seasoned HDR Photographer? If you’re a more experienced HDR photographer, then you definitely should simply pick up the D7100. There are a couple key features which make this a better camera for HDR. You can take article.wn.com/view/2016/09/13/Considerable_Points_To_Remember_Before_Buying_Your_First_DSL/ . You’ll learn that 3 mounts regularly isn’t enough to get the range of light you'll need, as you get better at HDR. The D7100 makes it easy to add two more photos. Additionally, it shoots at up to 7 frames per second, so if you’re trying to take brackets on the fly and don’t have a tripod – this will get you much better results (although you should still use a tripod). The plethora of on customization abilities and camera controls suits itself to a more experienced photographer and will make setting up shots much easier. Worth noting that the D7000 only does 3 exposure brackets, thus in this instance I think it’s worth checking out the D7100. Updating to first DSLR from Shoot and Point? If you shoot at your whole life and ’ve been using a point, updating to a DSLR can be a bit of a daunting endeavor. Don’t worry though, it doesn’t need to be! The best part about the D3200 for beginners is that it’s quite menu. The camera can do much of what it’s bigger siblings can, but much of it's still in simple to browse menus like in your point and shoot. There’s even a question button which will describe what distinct attributes of the camera do if you’re unsure. Then the D5200 is worth taking a look at if you’re needing to have a little more control, but still keep the intimacy of a menu based camera. It'll undoubtedly give you more room. Have a Lot of Nikon Lenses from Your Movie Days 20 Years Ago? For instance my aunt has an old 50mm f/1.2 that I’ve been striving to get on “long duration loan” for awhile now. This lens wouldn’t have metered on either my old D5000or D90. With the D7000 or D7100 however, nearly every lens from 1977 or newer will both meter and autofocus. So if you have a plethora of lenses that are old, don’t sell them away just yet, you may simply need a new camera body. Need Professional Attributes, but On a Budget? Here you have a couple options. Maybe you are tempted to snag an used D300 for less than the price of some of the newer cameras. On the surface this seems like a great thought. You’re getting incredible build quality, more manual features, and a less expensive cost – but I’d think about doing this. The D300 is an old camera. You’ll get better photos, and many advancements in camera technology have been made and older cameras are ’sed by many useable features in a D7100 than one of Nikon. Stick with the D7100 which is still nearly half the cost of they and the cheapest complete frame camera the D600 – ’re fundamentally the same in terms of attributes. Appearing to Do Photography and More Serious Video? I hate to say this, but consider switching to Canon if you’re truly seriously interested in video. I’m a Nikon man through and through, and I also do lots of video. The video quality on even D5200 or a D7100 is unbelievable. But there are certain characteristics that become a little deal breaker.