6-8 July 2008
S23.36 W178.56
North Minerva Reef
Minerva Reef – a strange phenomenon if there ever was one. A nearly perfect circle of coral reef shoots up from the abyssal plains to the surface of the sea. The lagoon spans about 4 kms across – and the reef is entirely under water at high tide. Both North and South Minerva are as used as anchorages for yachts traveling between New Zealand and Tonga and Fiji. Although North Minerva offers the more protected anchorage, with a single and easily negotiated, west-facing pass that offers access to the large lagoon. Yachts often stop here to wait for more favourable weather conditions before continuing their journey. Possibly the main attraction is the fact that it is totally uninhabited and there are reports of abundant fish and lobster! We found the idea of an unspoiled environment little-disturbed by humans, very appealing… On arrival, we had the entire place to ourselves. 3 others were expected the following day, so it was great to relax and take it all in by ourselves, especially with a celebratory G&T at 5pm! Our first drink since leaving New Zealand. Gee it was GREAT to FINALLY be away from New Zealand. I thought we were never going to leave! Low tide came about at 4pm on Monday, so we dinghied towards the exposed reef dodging the many shallow coral mounds (cursing at the odd “crunch” every now and then!). Getting ashore was a rather unique experience too… Ken powered the dingy forward into the coral ledge (which was like a mini waterfall), and I flung the anchor onto the reef and then we carefully stepped out onto the coral ledge (which was not as slippery as I initially thought!). It was AMAZING! Once we set off we could not believe how wide it was – surely at least 150m across? We walked over to the other side that was being pounded by wind driven waves. It really is amazing how the reef withstands these constant pressures decade after decade. I was lucky enough to find a few beautiful cowries too, so I was thrilled – a new batch to start off the new season! The water temperature was getting noticeably more tropical – although still not enticingly warm enough for me to simply jump into the water yet!! When the sun was out it was hot, but come 3 or 4pm it was usually “refreshing", especially with a constant 20-25 knot SE blowing! Nighttimes were cool enough to only need a duvet… aah gone are the days of having to sleep in socks, microfibre track pants, thermal vests, a duvet and 3 layers of blankets!! Roll on summer! Our Kiwi friends on Wind Star arrived soon after we went “ashore” and we had them round for drinks later that evening. They were thrilled to have made it safely to Minerva, and in good time too – this being their first offshore passage and all! They are headed to Tonga for the season – and sadly we may never see them again! We also met another wonderful couple on a boat called Lopto. They too were off to Tonga, but should see them again in Fiji later on in the season. The initial plan was to stay in Minerva for about 5 or so days before heading to Fiji. We had to time our arrival just right for Fiji because they charge steep overtime fees… so to arrive before 4pm on a Friday, the latest we could leave would be at sparrows on a Wednesday. I was getting daily weather updates and noticed that the winds would be turning to Northerlies on the weekend – which would not be a good situation for us to be in here at Minerva. SO everyone was going to flee to Tonga and Fiji that next morning! The forecast seemed good: 20-25 gusting 30 knots SE. It was such a shame to have to leave, but in this game it’s the weather we obey! A bit of history for those who are interested. The atolls were named after the whaleship Minerva was wrecked on South Minerva after leaving Sydney in 1829. Another famous incident occurred on the maiden voyage of the wooden schooner Strathcona, sailing north soon after completion in Auckland in 1914, only to unexpectedly crash up onto South Minerva Reef on the sixth day out and break apart. The crew of 13 consolidated materials and constructed a raft to live aboard in the lagoon, and then the captain and three crew sailed the schooner`s launch north to the nearest inhabited island, Ono-i-Lau, Fiji. Meanwhile a rescue vessel from New Zealand found the survivors on the raft at South Minerva, as well as the rescuers returning aboard a Fijian cutter to save their crewmates.