Diary for ScouseLeeM on Tour


Kiev and (almost) Chernobyl

2018-03-18 to 2018-03-20

I'll keep this short and sweet, as that is exactly what this trip ended up being...

Original plans here went up in smoke - due to a snowstorm causing travel chaos, and delaying my arrival in Kiev by 18 hours...instead, I found myself 'enjoying' a free airport hotel with buffet dinner and breakfast in Frankfurt. Not totally unpleasant, but destroying my best laid plans.

Originally I should have been up with the lark and off to the rather unusual tourist destination of Chermobyl, to view the remnants and aftermath of the great 1986 nuclear disaster, including the iconic deserted ghost town of Pripyat. This is a heavily restricted area, and visits require advance registration and permits, only valid on the specific date pre-registered. As such, my chance to vsit during this trip was gone, and with no way to rearrange before leaving. Buggar...

Instead, I spent 2 days familiarizing myself with the (snowy) sights of beautiful Kiev. Maybe my favourite East European city to date, and possibly containing more golden - roofed buildings than the rest of Europe combined. This is a city that blends the ancient and the modern in all aspects of culture, architecture, and crucially, food. And very friendly locals (with excellent English lanaguage skills a plenty).

It also remains remarkably affordable. Very pleasant hotels are on offer for 25-40 pounds per night, and a filling local meal is available for 2-3 pounds. If, as I did, you want to treat yourself to something a  little more upmarket, a fine 2 course lunch and drink at a plush central steakhouse set me back a very moderate 7 English pounds. As indeed did another 2 course dinner in a traditional Ukranian restaurant in Taras Shevchenko park - stuffing myself with a local concoction of pork, potato and cheese after a beef broth, plus mountain of bread.

Transport is insanely cheap - the amazing subway system (the deepest in the world, and decorated with extravagant mosaics and chandalier-like lighting), costs approx. 15 pence for a single ride anywhere across the city. The funicluar/cable car system was even cheaper, and made for a slightly less strenuous way up the very steep hill to St Michaels monastery.

Like many East European cities, churches, monasteries, and cathedrals are everywhere. Surprizingly, I didn't get bored of them here, and after a small group tour to familiarize myself with the city, I spent a full day and a half hiking many miles in deep snow. Independence Square is the central focus of the city, site of the 2014 massacre,  when snipers killed 70 protesters. Incredible to see how peaceful and friendly everything seems now (although armed soldiers are visible everywhere).

Despite not getting to Chernobyl, I did get to visit the official Chernobyl musem and audio tour. This gives a detailed account of the tragic events, plus stories and memorabilia of those affected by the event, and those that gave their lives to save others.

Let the East European tour continue - next, Romania and teeny tiny, itsy bitsy Moldova...