Five days to go before I leave Old Blighty on my year-long holiday!
My last day at home for a while, and it was a long day. I was up at 5am washing and polishing the house before I left it ready for someone to move in. My good friend Roger came over to give me a hand. He found a crazy woman who didn`t know which way to turn. Bless him, he helped me pack up, deliver the keys to the Renting Agent and took me to the airport. I don`t know what I would have done without you Roger. Thanks millions.
I wasn`t looking forward to going through the security at Heathrow because I always, always get searched. This time I was put through the X-ray procedure. "Do I really look like a Terrorist ?"
I was one of the first on the plane because I was eager to get going and I was exhausted. All I wanted to do was sleep. I found my seat and closed my eyes but I was soon brought back to reality when I heard a very excited Cabin Crew Supervisor announce that we were on "Push Back". We were held for an hour. Then I heard a call for a doctor. More delay. Eventually we were off but I didn`t sleep much, if at all.
Bangkok International is a plush new airport open last year but it was a long walk to Baggage Reclaim. I found my friend Margaret who arrived an hour earlier waiting in the Arrivals Lounge or I should say she found me.
We walked out of the airport and instantly felt the heat. We queued for a taxi, negotiated a price, but it soon became clear that the taxi driver didn`t know the way to the hotel and was lost. The traffic was horrendous.
I had booked a backpackers hotel in the backstreets of the Khao San Road tourist area. Eventually, I am glad to say, he did find the hotel and it was clean and adequate.
Margaret and I only walked a couple to blocks to find a restaurant for a meal before going back to sleep.
We slept late, missed breakfast, but had brunch before going to explore Bangkok. Our problem was that we didn`t know our way out of the maze of backstreets. So if in doubt, we did what tourist do in Bangkok. We hired a tuk tuk man, but we negotatied a price of 20B for the afternoon first. He showed us all the sights, the temple, temple, temple and the outlet shops, and the jewellery factory.
Margaret thought she had gone to heaven when she was escorted around the trays of rings in the jewellery showroom, escorted by several salesmen all trying to find just the right ring to her. Tray and tray of gems were brought out for her to try. Whilst she wasn`t looking a bought myself a necklace. She did find a ruby ring she liked, but I lost count the number of rings she actually tried on.
We then mentioned to our tuk tuk man that we wanted to book some trips, and surprise, surprise, he knew a new travel agent that would give a special deal. We booked our trips and continued our sightseeing tour.
We visited several temples, the most memorable being the "Luang Pho to", a gigantic statue of Buddia in the Nakhan District. It has an alms bowl in hands, facing east, is 32 metres in eight and 11 metres in width. It is said to bless everyone success, has miraculous power, especially if they vow that they will present a head of fish of the macheral kind, a boiled egg and a lei of flowers. Unfortunately, we had none of those things with us, so Margaret freed a small cage of birds instead, which was to bring good luck and happiness.
At Benchamabophit temple we say the monks praying and we accidently walked into a Tourist Guides Conference at the University Building across the road. We became a source of practise for them.
At the Kings Palace we noted a great deal of military activity. We later, discovered that it was the King`s Birthday.
After we said goodbye to our tuk tuk man we decided to take a look at the nearby market and managed to get lost. But Margaret did purchase an umberella which was fortunately, because it rained.
Back at the hotel we invented a new game, "Hunt the Key". We had locked our passports and money in the hotel safe for which we had a key. 30 minutes I hunted for the key before Margaret remembered that I had given it to her for safe keeping. We are both getting old and forgetful !!!!
We took a Boat Tour of Bangkok. We could get on and off whenever we wanted. We decided we wanted to visit Wat Pho temple with the reclining Buddia and the Grand Palace.
Unfortunately, the Palace was closed for a Ceremony to celebrate the King`s Birthday and the TV cameras were there. We were not allowed in. It was very disappointing. Instead we spent a cultural afternoon at the Patravadi Theatre watching the students performing their art.
We had problems getting back to Khao San Road, we were being sent up and down the river but we did eventually get back and spent the rest of the day in the bar.
Had an early start for the trip to Kanchanaburi. Visited the Allied War Cemetery first where I met Karen and Irish School Teacher on the last leg of her Gap Year. Discovered she was on the same trip but travelling on a different bus.
Second stop was the River Kwai Railway Museum and a walk across the famous bridge. then a train ride on the Death Railway. There was some excellent views of the bush and Burma. Margaret`s mother was born in Burma so it meant a great deal to her. We also travelled through fields of tabeocca which is farmed in the area.
We were then taken to the Jungle Camp for a real Thai lunch. Then a visit to Tiger Temple.
At the Tiger Temple we were allowed to go into the canyon for a photo shoot with the tigers. There were also some cute cubs to cuddle and there were also lots of other wild animals there, such as boars, peacocks etc. It was extremely hot so we took a break at the Saiyok Nos Waterfall. Margaret, Karen and I climbed to the waters source where there were some good views. We also came across a monkey sitting in the trees drinking water from a bottle. Well, it was hot !!!
Back at the camp we feasted on a dinner of catfish, beans (not baked), chicken with vegetables and liechee. Then we were taken to our accomodation up river on a long boat. Our home for the night was a bamboo raft hut on the river. The younger members of our group swam in the fast flowing river. Margater, Karen and I declined to participate in this activity. Knowing our luck, we would have missed the stopping place and ended up being swept down stream.
Margaret found another pass time more to her taste, a young man with a bottle of whisky of which they together managed to demolish as swiftly as the river flowed. Being Scottish she was use to it.
After dark, it rained heavily.
No running water for the toilets in this area, just a bucket of water and a little bowl. You work it out !!!
We started the day with a peaceful trip back down river on a bamboo raft for about 30 minutes. They dropped us off on the opposite side of the river to the Camp. We had to cross on an old rickety wooden suspension bridge like the ones seen in the films, and it did sway from side to side, making the girls very nervous encase they fell in the river. It was a long way down.
Once across the river we were bundled into the back of a truck which was bound for the elephant farm and a trek through the jungle on the back of an elephant. I was struck by the number of fantasticly beautiful butterflies.
The elephant upon which Margaret and I rode reminded of little Harrison (my grandson), she was rebellious and naughtie. Tell her not to do something and she would do it anyway. The minder had problems controlling her.
A visit to Kuin-Im - "Goddess Cave", lunch and a drive back to Bangkok.
Swopping hotels was a nightmare. We were meant to go back to our hotel in the Khao San Road area to pick up our packs, then be transported to another hotel in the City. However, the driver couldn`t find it so we had to go on foot, but we couldn`t find it either. Eventually, of course, we did get there, picked up our back packs and got a taxi back to the mini bus. But we couldn`t find the bus or even know the name of the hotel to which we were to be transferred. It was panic stations, however, it did turn out well in the end. We found the driver of the bus and the tour guide.
We ended the evening in a posh hotel in the City.
Today we left Bangkok to spend a couple of relaxing days at the seaside town of Pattaya which is a couple of hours drive South of Bangkok. It is a busy resort renowned for its watersports and street sex. We had a relaxing day doing little but sitting by the roof pool reading, doing puzzles, writing letters and sleeping.
The tour guide was late picking us up at our hotel in Bangkok. After 30 mins. the local policeman came over to us to find out why we were hanging around outside the hotel, then the hotel doorman came out to find what was going on. Hope they didn`t think we were soliciting! Actually they were both nice guys.
In the evening we did go out to explore the night life and we just happened to come across the seedy part of town. We ended up in a bar watching the ladies of the night apply their trade. They were such young beautiful Thai girls who are possibly forced to work the streets to feed their families.
Many of the men they picked up were European white men who were old enough to be their Grandfathers`, and who had probably been saving their pensions all year for a week of hanky panky in Thailand.
We also saw a few "LadyBoys". This was all research, of course. as a counsellor I need to understand these cultural differences!!!!!
Spent the morning relaxing on the beach. It is not the best beach in Thailand but it beats Southend.
The young men are handsome and very friendly. They all want to hold my hand, but only because they want to sell me something. Either, a tailored suit or sex. I bought neither.
The afternoon was spent beside the hotel pool. In the evening we returned to our posh hotel in Bangkok.
An early start for a day trip to the old capital of Thailand. It is situated in the farming area of the country. We passed by fishing swamps, paddy fields, and vegetable fields on route.
Ayutthaya Town is 86km north of Bangkok, was the Thai capital from 1350 - 1767 and was the beautiful city of 33 Kings of various Siamese dynasties until it was conquered by the Burmese.
A wide canal makes a complete circle around the town. There are several old temples in the area. Visited Wat Ratburama that is not as dilapidated as the others, and Chan Kasem Palace and Bang Pain where we saw elephants. Two Princes has a war on elephants here.
We visited the grounds of the King`s Summer Palace which was really impressive. After this we took lunch on a River boat and sailed down the river back to Bangkok for 2 hours. It was a pleasant trip out and well worth it.
Margaret slept in a bit later because we will be flying out tonight. I went to the Internet Cafe for an hour.
Later we decided to try to make our way to the Siam Centre. We had found it really difficult to find our way around this city, so again we took the tuk tuk who have to take tourists to the shops that sponsor them and to the temples. First he took us to a neaby temple where there was a funeral of a young woman, taking place. We left the temple and visited the grave boxes that house the ashes of the dead. A man saw us and wanted to tell us all about how that handle the dead in this country. A bit morbid but it part of life.
The tuk tuk then took us back to the hotel and a jewellery shop and material shop. I bought some silk to send home with Margaret for me to make something when I get back next year.
Eventually, we did make it to the Siam Centre where all the expensive shops are housed. It was extremely busy.
From here we made our way to Jim Thompson`s House. On the way we met a kind man that escorted us there. The house was the an old Thai house of a rich European silk merchant who had combined 5 houses into one. It was beautiful. He had brought silk to Thailand at the end of the Second World War in 1945. He disappeared and no one has ever discovered what happened to him. He was 61 years old and disappeared whilst travelling alone in the jungle.
We made an attempt to find our own way back to the hotel. We took the Skytrain. Margaret had wanted a trip on the Skytrain the whole holiday. We only went one stop and it was just like our the Central Line but overhead instead of underground. When we got off the train it started raining, I mean really rain, like a monsoon. We sheltered in a smart store, but the rain did not easy up very much so we decided to brave it and walk in the rain. We asked several times the way but nobody seemed to know our hotel. It probably had something to do with our accent. They sent us one way then the other, even the taxi drivers didn`t know it or wanted to charge us to much money. Margaret lost her cool. I felt we were on the right road but wasn`t sure so we turned back again walking down a dead end road. Here, I found a small hotel where the people were so kind, they did know the hotel, and wrote it down in Thai for me so the taxi driver could understand. We soon found a tuk tuk man who was prepared to take us back to our hotel and safety.
I have since discovered that we were on the right road and only about 5 - 10 mins away from our hotel. I haven`t told Margaret this yet. We were very hot, wet and exhausted by the time we finally made it back to the hotel. Margaret, who has in the past lived for 3 years in Africa, was finding the climate in Thailand difficult. Fortunately, I coped well with it.
For our last evening together Margaret treated us to a trip up the highest tower in Thailand the Bangkok Sky Hotel which was nearby. It was 84 floors up. We had to get 3 lifts to get to the top. It was nightime and a fantastic view of Bangkok could be seen from the revolving platform, which incidently was undergoing maintenance work so we had to walk around. We had a drink in the Nightclub at the top before descending. Margaret has introduced me to "Gin and Tonic", not something I usually drink but it tasted good anyway.
Margaret`s taxi to take her to the airport was booked for 11.30pm, but it didn`t turn up, so she had to negotiate a special price with a local taxi at the last minute. I have since heard that she did make her plane in time and returned to the UK in one piece.
Spent the morning packing and catching up with emails. It was at this point that I discovered that my designer glasses had been stolen from my pack in Pattaya. When Margaret and I had picked up our packs from the Bell Boy in hotel lobby, I had found that my pack had been tampered with and the only pocket on which I did not have a lock had been opened. At the time I couldn`t think what I had put in it, but I remembered as I was packing that I had popped my glasses in there because I had forgotten to pack them. I felt pretty angry with myself for being so trusting and to lazy to pack them safely.
During the afternoon I went exploring on foot, no money left for tuk tuk so had to make sure I didn`t get lost. Found myself in the poorest part of town where the people lived under the motorway and beside the railway line. It was sad to see such poverty, made me realise how privileged I am.
I also saw a large pack of dogs living under the motorway which worried me a bit because of rabbies, but they took no notice of me. They are not used to being loved so they showed no interest in me whatsoever. I decided at this point to start making my way back because I was obviously walking in the wrong direction and it was getting very hot. I put up my umbrella up to protect myself from the heat of the sun. What is it they say about mad dogs and Englishmen?? I saw a McDonald`s so made my way towards it, air conditioning, and cold drinks.
It was here that I found the big tourist stores and the road we had been on when we had got caught in the rain.
I went back to the hotel to pick up my luggage and a quick wash and brush up before leaving. I was worried that my taxi wouldn`t turn up but he arrived an hour early. Bless him! I took my night flight to Melbourne.
No problems at airport. didn`t even ask to see my visa.
Took the skybus into the City then transported to my backpacking hotel. I was a bit confused because I thought I was going to be staying at the seaside in St Kilda. I had forgotten that we changed it to the Urban City Hotel on the Southbank. It was a hive of activity when I arrived, and I was unable to get into my room until 2pm. I was given a map of the city and advised to take the free Tourist City Shuttle and go sightseeing to pass the time. I couldn`t find the appropriate bus stop so took the free City Tourist Tram instead. It took me on a circlar tour of the City. It felt so cold after Bangkok and my warm coat was packed in my pack, in the hotel locked store room. I froze!!! I had gone from temperatures of 35+ to 10.
Melbourne, I felt was very English and I wondered if there would be enough to keep me interested for 5 days. By the end of the afternoon I had toured the city on the tram and gone on the walking tour I had found in JB`s book on Australia.
The hotel was basic and very, very busy, mainly with young people but it was close to the City Centre and the River Yarra.
I found I was sharing my room with a young woman New Zealand and one from England who where working in Melbourne, and a young girl from South Korea. We had a welcome evening for new arrivals. There was also a free Bar-B-Que, both of which I attended. The meal was a free for all, a fight to get the food. I managed to hold my own against the younger hungry mouths. The hotel is designed for the traveller living on a shoestring. They included in the price free breakfast for all, hot drinks, pasta, rice and a meal once a week. I actually learnt to enjoy my stay in this hotel. It was big for a backpacking hotel, 4 floors or rooms and was always full.
I had an early night and slept well.
Took a day trip to see the Little Penguins at Phillip Island. Firstly, we were taken to a Winery for wine tasting. It was a bit early for wine and I can`t say I really like the wine.
Then we had lunch at a Wildlife Zoo. We feed the Kangaroos and Wallabies who took the food from the hand. We also saw wombats, emu, tazmanian devils, dingoes, crocodiles and I had my photograph taken with a Koala. (This I was going to send to Harrison, hopefully he will be suitably impressed).
On the bus I made friends with a young female student teacher from the West of Glasgow, who had been in Australia to visit relatives for a few months before starting her teaching career in a Secondary School in Glasgow. Her name was Camilla and she was returning to Scotland, her partner and her new house the next day.
We travelled on to experience Cape Wollamai Surf Beach and Australian sand. From there we went on to the Nobbies hoping to see Seals on the Seal Rocks and Penguin`s Blowholes.
At dusk we went onto the Penguin complex to witness the Little Penguins come out of the sea in rafts (batches) and waddle up the beach to their little homes and to catch up with their mates. They mate for life. The penguins are the smallest in the world and stand 30cm high. They were so cute waddling up the beach like an army. The first raft we saw were being intiminated by seagules who try to spook them into bring up their food. Tif this happens they, the seagules, get free dinner. The penguins, however, could die of starvation.
On the way back to Melbourne we stopped for dinner in a Pizza Restaurant.
I have decided to spend the day around the City. It is cold, wet and windy. Had coffee at the World Trade Centre, then made my way to the State Library where there were two free exhibitions showing. "The Changing Face of Victoria" and "Mirror of the World in Books and Ideas". It was an impressive building with five floors of books. Local students come here to study.
After lunch to get out of the rain and cold, I again took the City Tour Tram then the Tourist Shuttle which took me further out of the City. It included the North Melbourne, Docklands, Southbank, Carlton Gardens, Melbourne Zoo and lots more. It is possible to get on and off whenever, but I didn`t get off to often.
The Docklands was interesting. It had a statue of a Cow sitting in a tree upside down with its feet in the air. I suppose it is as good a way to sit in a tree as any other, but I failed to understand why or the message the artist was trying to get over????
I did come across a little street covered in artistic gaffette. It looked good.
In the evening I attended a presentation on trips to the outback. The trip looked great but out of my budget, even with a free flight to Adalaide.
Picked up early to start my two days on the Gt Ocean Road. The weather was dull and wet when we left. In total there were 18 people on the bus. The tour was run by a young 31 year old Australian. It was his company, so he had an added interest in making it enjoyable.
He starts his tours with the long 3 hour journey to the other end of the road. He starts where the other tours finish so we miss all the crowds. On the way we went through Geelong, which was meant to have been the capital of Victoria but the harbour was not deep enough, Melbourne took the position as the capital instead.
Warrnambool is the start of the Gt Ocean Road. It was built by soldiers returning from the First World War. It was to give them work. In April 2007 it celebrated 75 years of completion.
The first place we visited on the tour was Logans Beach and the Whale Nursery. June is when the females usually come close to shore to give birth to their young, but no whales could be seen this day. Two had been seen further up the shore.
We were dropped off at a Supermarket to buy food for lunch. We were to have a picnic at Tower Hill Reserve. The Reserve is a wild life park were Kangaroos, Koala and Emu are allowed to live in the wild. We managed to get pictures of Koala and Kangaroo, but no Emu showed up today.
Koala live solely on eucalyptus leaves. They don`t move around much because they have no energy. They will eat every leave on the tree before moving to the next one.
Ngatanwarr is native for welcome. We drove along the coast road for a bit. The area use to be inhabited by several thousands of natives but the english gradually wiped them out. They tried to fight back but they didn`t have the technology. The English killed them all until on two hundred were left, then they rounded them up, stood them on the cliffs and shot them, pushing them over the cliffs. Then there none left.
We were taken to see the 12 Apostles at twilight. They often change colour at night but today the weather was to bad. We stayed long enough to see the Little Penguins come out of the sea at the end of their day of fishing. It was a spectacular sight even if we were standing on the cliff tops looking down.
Over night we stayed in a hostle at Port Campbell. It was a little town with approx. 24 people living there. It looked like a holiday town out of season. After an excellent Bar-B-Que we all went to the local pub.
We started by going to the 12 Apostles to see them in the morning. There was a magnificent red sky this morning but it had disappeared by the time we reached the Apstles. We travelled the Shipwreck Coast.
We went to the grotto where Eve Carmichael and Tom Pearce were shipwrecked. It is in the Loch Ard George. They had been travelling in a ship with 54 other people, emigrants making their way to Australia to start a new life. The ship sunk in a storm. Tom was the ships cabin boy and Eve the daughter of an emigrant. All the other passengers were drowned. Tom managed to make it to land.
Eve couldn`t swim and clung to a crate. Tom heard her cries and went back into the sea to save her. They sheltered in a cave. The next day Tom went to find help. The couple stayed together in Australia for a while until Eve returned to Ireland and went on to have 8 children. Tom went back to sea and captained 3 ships.
We moved onto the Port Cambell National Park, which was the home of the Kirraehurrong People. Some of our group went up in a helicopter to view the Apostles.
We travelled onto Gibsons Steps and stopped for a group "photo. It was a long way down to the beach.
At Maits Rest we walked for an hour in the Rainforest, where we saw some very old trees called White Knights. When some of the trees get old they die from the inside so it is possible to walk inside the trees. We also looked for black snails, not found anywhere else, and they live by eating ants etc.
We travelled onto Apollo Bay, Cape Patton and Wyre River. The town at Wyre River was distroyed in the 1970`s by bushfire. After the fire had been brought under control the towns people got together to decide their future. Would they move away or rebuild? They decided to rebuild but first they decided they needed a pub. So all the town got together to rebuild the pub. They had no where to live but they had a pub. It has since been brought into disrupt by the present owner. He has been charged with indecently spying on women. He, it was found, has installed hidden cameras in the ladies toilets.
We then stopped at the Discovery Trail where convict William Buckley escaped from a local prison and held up undeteched for a very long time because he found everything he needed to live in the area.
We stopped at Lorna Beach to watch some surfers but the surf was not good, and it had started to rain heavily by the time we reached Bells Beach. We had travelled between Warrnambool to Torquay before making tracks back to Melbourne.
Back at the Urban City Hotel I spent the evening with the friends I had met on the trip along the Gt Ocean Road.
After a last look at Melbourne on the Tourist Tram, I took the Skybus back to the airport where I took the Virgin Blue flight to Launceston in Tasmania. The sun was shining as I left Melbourne and it was a bit warmer than when I arrived but the rain had been so bad that East Melbourne was flooded. I had thankfully missed most of it whilst on my trip along the Gt Ocean Road.
The journey only took 45 mins. There were a lot of young school children on the flight. Again as I went through the security I was searched for explosives this time. There must be something suspicious about me or perhaps its just that I`m British.
The airport at Launceston is primitive. There appeared to be no security. We got off the plane, walked over the tarmac and people were waiting at the edge for their friends and relatives. There was no arrives lounge of baggage collection conveyor belt, everybody stood outside waiting for the buggy to arrive with the bags, and then it was a free for all as everybody took their own bags off the buggy.
Then I went looking for the airport bus. I couldn`t find the stop so I went back into the airport to ask directions. "You had better run, because he doesn`t hang around and if you miss it there will not be another one", said the lady. Eventually, I found the driver and he was very friendly and helpful. He had originally come from Northern Ireland.
The hostel was a bit of a contrast to the one I had left in Melbourne. It was very basic, like YHA hostels in the UK about 20 years ago. Not many people staying there. I was put in a room on my own. There was no heating and it was so cold I would sit up in bed with my overcoat on.
The only really good things about the hostel was that it was also a Pizza Restaurant that cooked their Pizza in a wood fired oven, and the shower was piping hot.
I went to bed early because there appeared to be only men in the lounge who were intent upon watching the AFL match on the TV.
The men watching the AFL match had a party which lasted until daybreak. I think their team must have won. Consquently, I slept until mid-day due to the fact that I didn`t get much sleep.
It was a lovely sunny day, so I explored the city. It had some old interesting buildings dating back to 1805. They were fine buildings with some ornate sculpture, especially on the roof tops.
There were also several parks, which I visited. The Prince`s Park and City Park. The City Park was the largest with activities for children and adults. There was a Conservatory full or plants, and an old water fountain erected for Queen Victoria`s Jubilee in 1897. The Prince`s Park also housed a very fine fountain. The square surrounding Prince`s Park had several old churches side by side.
The sun started to go down early. I sat beside the North Esk River to watch the sun go down. I was outside the James Boag`s Brewery which was built in 1950 but the company had been established since 1881.
The City of Launceston sits on three rivers the South Esk and North Esk and the Tamar Rivers. It was a calm river and I could only see a few ducks. It was a peaceful place with only the distant roar of the traffic.
Today is Sunday and the town seemed very quiet but it looks like it has some good shops, some of which were open but not many. I had a good time looking around but I still have a lot to see.
I walked beside the Marina where there were some handsome boats. I feasted on Fish and Chips - Tasmanian Style.
I took an early walk around the City Park. I found a bronze statue of Ronald Camp Gunn (1808-1881). I liked the look of him so wanted to find out more. I found that he was born in Cape Town in South Africa, the son of an Army Officer, and spent several years in the West Indies. He came to Hobart in 1830 to be Supervisor in the Convict Barracks. At the age of 24 years he was in charge of all the convicts in Northern Tasmania. He became interested in plants. He became friends with William Hooker, the world`s foremost botanist and collected specimens for him. He also sent hundreds of animal speciments to Britian because he wanted Tasmanian natural history be well known, and he feared that many of the animals were becoming extinct. He had no descendants but 42 plant species bear his name. There is Eucalyptus gunni, cider gum, a Proteacae, an orchid, the deciduous beech. Nothafahus gunni, a delightful shub. And there is Peramelous gunnti, the eastern barred bandicoot. He founded the Launceston Horticultural Society.
I took the Tamar River Cruise that took me along all 3 rivers. The Tarmar which goes out to sea, the North Esk River and The South Esk River. The North Esk was were the original wharf stood in 1805, there are still some old buildings still existing but the wharf has been superseded by another further up river, but even that has been superseded because the ships are getting bigger and need deeper water.
The wharf at Launceston has now been converted into a plush new marina. A large hotel sits on the dry dock. They had thought to make the dock into an underground car park but it proved to be to expensive, so it ramains unused under the hotel.
Further up Tamar River is now situated the new docks which is only used for repairs. Vessels come up only occasionally. The large ships dock at the mouth of the river where it is deep enough for them. The river around Launceston has to be dredged frequently and the mud used for fertilizer because it is rich in minerals.
The ships that where in for repair was an Ice Breaker, the prototype ship for the Royal Yacht Brittania. The British Royal Family saw it, and commissioned one the same but bigger. There was also a ferry as well as a few cargo boats.
We then sailed down the Cataract Gorge on the South Esk River. The view were spectacular and encouraged me to walk to the First Basin and beyond. So I set off as soon as the cruise was over. The weather looked good for a walk.
I walked from Royal Park to Kings Park, past the Yacht Club, the Penny Royal World, which was closed for repair and the watermill to Kings Bridge. Here I had a choice, the main easy route or the difficult Zig Zag route. Needless to say, I took the difficult rough path. It was hard going but the track was well made ands easy to follow. I soon started to take off some of my 6 layers of clothes. It was uphill most of the way, but then it came down. It was mountainous forest land. Not many people took this route so it was quiet. Eventually, I made it to the chair lift at the First Basin. Just for the hell of it I took the chair lift, but only one way because I planned to walk back alone the easy route.
But, instead of returning I decided to cross over the river again on the Alexandra Suspension Bridge, built in 1904. Then, I saw the path to Duck Reach Power Station Museum, which it said would take 90 mins. but it was a difficult route and should only be taken by experienced hikers. That`s me I thought, so I set off.
It was hard going but again the path was well established and maintained. The sun went in and clouds came over, I was worried it might rain, so I put a spurt on because I didn`t want to get caught out there in the rain, it might be dangerous. I did work up a sweat and got their in double quick time. The sun came out again when I got there. There was another suspension bridge at the Power Station. the terrain was very ruggid, and the rapid looked as if they could be menacing where there was heavy rain, but fortuantely, it had been dry and sunny for the past few days.
I took a leisurely stroll back to the first basin. Walking up the Alexander Lookout then the Cataract Lookout. The latter was not an easy climb but at the top it was magnificent view of the gorge with the City in the background.
At the Cataract Lookout I met a man from Queensland who said it had taken him 13 days to drive down. He asked me to take a picture of him, then we walked down together. I said goodbye then continued back to the City by the easy route.
Took river walk along the North Esk River to the Heritage Forest. It was an easy walk, the path was well constructed. The Tasmanians do seem to like to make it easy for hikers. It was a long straight walk starting at the Inveresk Precinct which is built on the site of the Railway Workshops. The railway does still run through the Precinct during summer and the workshops do still exist. It is a cultural precinct with a new art gallery. The river walk is an easy stroll. Some of the land has been reclaimed from the river.
There is always a serious threat of flooding in this Launceston because it stands at the mouth of 3 rivers, so a lot of extra flood prevention has been put in place. They belief that there is a real danger every hundred years. They are expecting a flood soon. There would be no warning, heavy rain fall could bring water cascading down from the mountains from all river into the Tamar and cause the River to burst its banks.
The walk to the Heritage Forest took about 1 hour. On the way I passed by the locomotive sheds where men were working, but no trains were running. They only run in Summer for the Tourist. The Aurora Stadium, which means nothing to me but it is important to the locals. It is a very impressive stadium and I believe they play AFL football there. Then there was the little factory units, a small soccer stadium and athletics stadium, a Saturday Market, which was closed because it is Tuesday. The race course on the opposite bank and cattle grazing. Mainly black cattle in one field and brown in the other. There were several small holdings with cows and chickens. And a small town. I noticed there were few birds or ducks, although I did see a flock of herrin
fly over head.
It is a warm sunny day for this time of years, but a few dark clouds gave me some concern but they soon passed on. I eventually found the Heritage Forest which was very damp after the heavy rain during the night. I came across Bushland Park that was a bit ruggid, and I managed to step into a bog.
I saw no other walkers which was just as well, because I discovered I had been walking for about an hour with only one lense in my sunglasses. I can`t imagine why I didn`t notice. If anyone had seen me they would have thought I was an eccentric. It gave me a good laugh!!
That night I met "Q" a young woman from Singapore who is studying Biology at Melbourne University. There was a lot of local people in the hostel for Concert of Folk Music.
Took the 10am Redline Coach to Hobart. The weather was a bit overcast but it was dry. Approximately 40 minutes outside Launceston we went through a forest. The name of the forest was Epping Forest. Obviously the ancesters had connections with my part of the world, which made me think about all my family and friends at home. Apparently there are only 4 buildings in this Epping Forest area.
The Heritage Highways runs straight down the middle of the island, and runs between Launceston and Hobart. It was mostly flat pasture land with sheep and cattle. In the distance on either side I could see hills or mountains. The Ben Lomond and National Parks on the left and the Great Western Tiers on the right.
We stopped at various little villages along the way to pick up passengers, but it appeared to me that inland, it was mostly farming land with more sheep and cattle than people.
We passed through a village called Ross which looked very interesting and very English. This is a wool growing are. At a town called Campbell I saw on the roof of a house a Stork in its next, together with chicks, when I took a second look it saw a statue made from some kind of metal. I must have been made by a very clever artist.
As we continued along the road out into the countryside I saw more figures, but much larger. Cowboys and Indians with horses having some kind of antication. Then further along a pack of Dingoes in a field some way off. At least, I took it to be models.
We chundled along the flat fields for a while then the rolling hills became more ruggid as we neared Hobart. The holdings I noticed had such pretty names like " Lovely Banks", "Muddpuddle Plain", "Green Valley". I also noticed a rather large hand painted poster that said "Church for Sale", obviously not many Christians living in that area.
As we neared Hobart it started to rain and looked very misty. It began to look inhabited like all big towns do. The roads became busier, a drive-in McDonalds, the river became an estray, lots of shops and businesses.
I walked 3 blocks from the Bus Station to my Backpacking Hotel in the Centre of the City. It was bigger and warmer than the one I left in Launceston, but it was up two flightsd of stairs. Not an easy task with a full pack. My room this time was full and I instantly made friends with an older lade from Maylasia who was in Hobart for a Conference. She lives in Melbourne with her family.
I went out to explore the City but I only got as far a the Tasmanian Museum. It was raining heavily and I wanted to get inside. As I entered I was greeted by a tour guide who wanted to give me a guided tour of the Museum. I agreed and I was her only customer. She spent about one and half hours showing around and telling me about the history of Tasmanian.
It was actually very interesting with lots of information on the history, stories about the convicts, natural history and Antartica.
The lady I discovered was originally a school teaching from Kent in the UK. She had come to Tasmania 30 years ago because she could earn more money teaching than in the UK because they were so deperate for teachers at that time. She said she came for a holiday but saw there were opportunites for her, so she took advantage of them. Her mother still lives in Yorkshire but her father had died. She seems eager to talk to someone from home, and wanted to tell me all about her family and her life.
I had an evening meal in a little Italian Cafe, then a walk around the harbour which was very busy and housed some very impressive yachts.
Last night when I was at the Victoria Docks it was a hive of activity, but when I returned today it was deserted. All the little boats had gone to sea to catch fish, and the little restaurants were closed until the fresh catch had been brought home.
I discovered that Hunter Street, which is where the Victoria Docks are situated is where Hobart started. It is the oldest part of town. There was once a Hunter Island. In 1804 Lt. Govenor David Collins stepped ashore on Hunter Island with 262 men and women of the first Fleet to Van Dieman`s Land. 187 of the people were convicts needing to start a new life. In 1820 a sandstone causeway was built to connect the island to the shore. The first warehouse was built on the island but land was reclaimed around it, and it eventually disappeared beneath the huste and bustle of the old wharf. It now lied beneath the University of Art.
In the 1840`s Fishermans Dock was built on land recalimed from the smaller Vistoria Docks. Henry Jones`s Jam Factory employed around 1100 people in 1820`s and was the biggest outside Britain. William Smithers was a weathy merchant dealing win salt and sealskins. All these buildings can still be seen today. I visited the University of Art.
I walked on despite of the rain. I put all my wet weather gear on. Walked to Constitution Docks where there were a few big boats, then onto Salamanca Square where there is a big memorial for the Dutchman Abel Tasman, the first man to discover the island. He set foot on the land on November 24th 1642. He named the island after the governor of Batavia, Van Dieman`s Landt. Tasman also discovered New Zealand and other Pacific Islands. The Town Hall still glys the Danish Flag in his honour.
The name of the island was changed to Tasmania because it had such a bad history with the convicts and death of the natives etc. They decided it needed a new name in order to move on from its past, so they decided to call it Tasmania in the name of the man who first found it.
At Salamanca there were some interesting little art galleries, wood sculpture, jewellery shops, clothes shops and a theatre.
I walked to Battery Point and the Princes Park. I am sure it is a very pretty park but not the best place in the rain. I noted that there was a serious lack of shelters in the area so I just sat on a bench in middle of the park to eat my packed lunch, under my umbrella. Mad Dogs and Englishman came to mind.
After lunch I continued my tour to the pretty old village of Battery Point, then onto the Anglesea Barracks where the museum was showing an exhibition of the Korean War between 1950 - 1953. From here I walked along Davey Street.
In the village I came across an old fashioned sweet shop with the sweets being sold from large jars the way they use to in England when I was a child.
Davey Street I found some very handsome old houses which were very large and elegant. I was so interested in the houses and their architecture that I was quite a long way along the road before I realised I was walking towards Mt Wellington instead of the City. I immediately turned right down a sie road, down hill and found that the houses began to get smaller and more basic.
I found I was in South Hobart which is the oldest suberb. By 1820 the town of Hobart began to spread towards Mt. Wellington. The area of Davey Street was well sort after by the rich merchants, but the further down the valley they built small houses for the workers. From here I returned to the city.
On my way back I visited St. David`s Church, a big English looking church with some lovely cut glass windows but otherwise quite plain. It did have its own park. The parks in Tasmania I find not to be very big by British Standards, but they are well kept.
I had an early start and it was raining when I left the City, but it did eventually turn into a lovely sunny day, although a bit cold. I took a tour with 13 other people to the Prison at Port Arthur.
Mark, the tour guide started my taking us to the the disused Hobart Zoo. It was opened in 1924 and was well stocked with animals from all over the World, but it had to be closed in 1937 because of the Recession and has not been reopened. It has remained emplty for 70 years. The last Tasmanian Tiger died there. All the remaining animals were returned to their Zoo`s overseas.
Across the road was the Governors House which was built by convicts with sandstone bricks made from the sandstone found in the Zoo. Some say the Zoo closed because the Governor didn`t like the roar of the Tigers and Lions.
Nearby is the Tasmanian Bridge which took 140 years to build. 127 metres of the bridge fell down after a boat hit it in a fog. The captain didn`t see it until it was to late. It was carrying iron ore. Some say the captain was drunk but this was not true, it was an error of judgement.
It killed 7 people on the ship, and people in 3 cars that fell into the river. A car nearly fell in but the driver managed to stop his car just in time, but it was half on and half off the bridge. The driver got his wife and daughter into the back of the car and out to safety. They have kept the car for luck. As they were walking back up the bridge another car was approaching, he tried to flag him down but the driver kept going. He drove over the edge and drowned. A small boat that went out to help also went down when the ship sunk. Approximately 15 people died because of the accident. The ship still lies at the bottom of the river under the bridge in 45 mtr of water.
The British were in Hobart for 10 years before they would venture out to Carlton, now the second biggest town. The Aboriginal natives would kill them if they found them on their land.
The present Hobart jail currently has approx. 500 prisoners men and women. Martin Bryant is currently servicing life for killing 15 people in a frenzed attack 16 years ago in Port Arthur. They will not talk about it down there because it is still to painful.
We stopped for an hour in Richmond after visiting Prospect House, built by convicts in 1830. People started to move out from Hobart at this time because it was becoming safer. Many farmers had been killed earier by Aborigins. They would surround the farmsteads and kill everybody in it. The owner of Prospect House kept a cannon on the lawn and every year on the King`s Birthday would fire it in his honour. The first year he had the cannon to close to the house and blow out all the windows. Now it is a place for Honeymooners.
Richmond is a very old Georgian Village that has been left very much as it was built. It is sited on the Coal River. I went for a walking tour. The houses dated back to 1820`s. It has Australian`s oldest goal built in 1825, oldest bridge, oldest Roman Catholic Church, oldest Court House etc. The houses are well preserved.
It was like going back in time. I went into the Post Office to ask if it was alright to post letters for overseas in the Post Box. The lady said I could give the letters and cards to her because she was the one who had to empty the box. She rubber stamped them for me then and there.
The river is a sea water river, it use to be tidal but another bridge had been built up stream to stop the water coming up to Richmond. Whales have been known to find their way tot he village. The water use to be deep enough to get a ship in at Richmond but the new bridge now works like a dam. The bridge, the oldest in Australia was built in 1823 by convicts.
The Coal River Valley is the largest wine producing area, with 30 vineyards.
In Richmond I came across a woodcarving shop selling everything wooden, made by a local craftsman. I found a golliwogs, not found in England anymore.
There are 5 million sheep in Tasmania, the largest Tasmanian industry. In New Zealand there are 30 million. There are only 1 million people living in the South Island of N.Z.
We saw the caseway which was first built by convicts 170 years ago to stop water going into Richmond. It was been replaced by a more modern bridge. It is surround by American Trees.
Sorell is a town as old as Richmond but most of it has been replaced by new buildings. In the fields surrounding we saw some Scottish cows, black with white middles.
70% of Tasmania is covered in trees. It is a big exporter of wood chip.
We went to the place where Abel Tasman first set foot on Tasmanian soil. He didn`t stay long. 130 years later the British and French came to the island. The French were the first to see the Aborininal natives and killed one. This started the problems with the natives.
For only 10,000 years has Tasmania been an island, before this time the animals and natives were able to walk every year from Victoria. Then the icebergs began to melt and made it into an island, and the animals and natives were trapped.
Devil`s Kitchen is known only because of it very deep revene and remains of shipwrecked bodies having been washed up in it. Part of it has collapsed leaving a huge hole it is roof.
Before Devil`s Kitchen we passed the Dunell Canal which is the only sea canal with a 7` - 8` deep bridge swinging open whenever a big ship wants to pass through. It is 100 years old.
At Frederick Henry Bay Sharks and Whales breed. Two Whales had been recently seen but not this day.
In the Port Arthur area they housed 5% of the convicts sent to Van Dieman`s Land. They had only the worst convicts, using those that had committed a serious crime or reaffended. No females were housed in Port Arthur, they went to the Female Factory in Hobart.
At Mundanna they attempted to wipe out the natives, it took 24 years to do it. There are now only 10,000 Aboriginal Natives remaining, none have native fathers. It was their custom to hire out their women for money and possessions. When the men were wiped out, many of their women were away from the area. So the only natives still remaining have white fathers. In 1876 the last male native was killed.
We travelled on to Flinders Crest. The Southern reefs have weedy sea dragons which are protected by the government. They grow to 18 inches. Leafy Sea Dragons are rare and also protected.
At Eaglehawk Neck we had lunch. There were rough,large breakers. There have been many shipwrecks in the area. Amongst them was a steamship called "Tasman" which went down in 1883. It was travelling from Sydney to Hobart. In 1915 "Nord" went down with its cargo of wine on board.
We were taken to view the "Dog Line". 22 dogs were used at regular intervals along the coast to alert the authorities if prisoners were trying to escape. No prisoner ever got past the dogs. On the otherside of the river stood 22 soldiers on lookout. Out of 12,000 prisoners only 7 were never found. Prisoners would try to swim for it at night, but were usually picked up.
Fairy Penguins, whales, sharks and dolphins inhabit the Eaglehawk Neck area.
In the forest in this area there are deer brought in from England. Some escaped and are now living wild. Every year they have a Deer Hunt.
We visited a village called Dootown. In 1951 one house called itself "DooLittle", now every house is called Doo something. "Doo Mix", "Doo Us", "Wee Doo", "Love me Doo", "Much a Doo", "Didgery Doo", "Just Doo It", "Doo F#@K All", "Doo Love It".
Hobart was first whaling station in Australia but whales disappeared, only a few left in area.
Vistied the first Railway in Australia. It had wooden rails. 4 convicts would push it for the first 4klm (half way), then another 4 for the rest. It was built at Norfolk Bay in 1838. It was operational for 20 years. The last half was downhill to Fortescue Bay. The passengers (4 usually) would have to get out and then get into a rowing boat for the rest of the journey to Port Arthur.
Port Arthur was very impressive, although mostly ruins now. some of the free people`s houses are still in tact. Attempts to rebuild it are being made. In the 1800`s the convicts were completely self sufficient. They had their own farm, tannery, wood turning, building, boat building, gardeners, hospital for physically and mentally sick prisoners. They had two churches and a little island for the dead call "Death Island". It is surrounded by water. If it wasn`t for the fact that all the inmates were kept against their will, it might have been a lovely place to live with beautiful views, sea and forest. A lot of the buildings had been distroyed by bush fires. We were taken on a cruise around the bay. It was a lovely day and a pleasant tour.
In the museum as we entered we were each given a playing card. I was given 9 of clubs. The idea was that when you entered the museum you went to your card to read about the convict who had been alloted your card. It was called the "Luck of Life".
I had been given the card alloted to a sailor named Vincenzo Beecheri, aged 30 years from Sicily, in the kingdom of Naples. In 1809 he was sentenced to transportation for life because of a breach of the Articles of War. For later receiving 614lbs of barley, valued at 30 shillings the property of the Soveign Lord the King, knowing it to be stolen.
When I went to find out what happened to him I found that he had fought with the Royal Navy in the Napoleonic War. He was court marshalled while on Service in Malta and sentenced to transportation for life. As a reward for good conduct Beccheri was pardoned by the Lt. Gov. of Van Dieman`s Lane. He got married and settled down on a small farm. Many years later he was again convicted for reciving stolen barley and as a punishment sent ot Port Arthur. Because he was too old for regular work, he spent most of his time in the settlement in the invalid gang. When he was allowed to leave Port Arthur he still had several years of his sentence to serve. As nobody knew what else to do with him, he was sent to work for his wife.
On the way back to Hobart our tour guide showed a film about the Tasmanian Devil and how he lives.
Mark, the guide was a keen football supporter. He supported Liverpool. When I first got into the mini-bus he asked if I was a Spurs Supported. When I told him that my son, Nick, wrote articles for the Spurs Magazine, I became his favourite passenger.
My Buddist friend Mei Yew returned to Melbourne today. she was a lovely lady, friendly, kind and good fun. She was very passionate about her religion. She would get up at 5am every morning to pray. She was in Hobart for a conference. I will miss her.
I had a lazy start after my trip yesterday to Port Arthur. I decided to go to the Salamanca Market which is held every Saturday where they sell Tasmania`s original arts and crafts, as well as food and flowers. There were two bands playing, a Scottish Pipe Band that made me feel sad a a bit homesick. I quickly moved on and found a band from the Andies. They were more jolly.
It started to rain heavily so I popped into a bookshop where there was section for secondhand books. It kept me amused for ages looking through old books like "Uncle Arthur`s Bedtime Stores" written in 1950. "Watersking for Everyone" 1954. "How to say Fabulous in 7 Different Languages", a book written for gay men.
When the rain stopped I allowed myself time to walk around the big stores.
I then went back to the Tasmanian Museum to take another look at the Aboriginal Centre, State Penal History, the Natural History and especially the section on the Antartica which I think looks fascinating. (My next trip perhaps ???????)
In ther evening I went back to the Salamanca Art Centre to attend a free Music Concert. I went along with Natalie and Dan. It wasn`t brilliant but it was a nice way to spend the evening. The best choir I though was the Italian Ladies from Melbourne who were very lively.
Natalie was born in Perth but is currently living on a little island off Auckland, N.Z with her partner. She is here for a confonference and to do some extra study and research on animals. She works at the University in Auckland.
Dan is from Isreal , also here for the Conference and works in a Natural Hisotry Museum in Televiv.
I took a cruise to Peppermint Bay. In the harbour at Sullivans Cove is a P + O ship that goes to the Antartic. We passed the Csiro Marine Research Centre and on to Sandy Bay. There were a few clouds but clear blue sky could be seen with the sun shining on and off. I did notice heavy clouds over Mt. Wellington. I later heard from my room mate that their was snow at the summit today.
We travelled down the Derwent River to Taroona which is an Aborininal name for the area. We passed the Private School where the Crown Princess of Denmark went to school. She is a Tasmanian girl who married the Danish Prince and has just given birth to her second child, a little girl recently Crhistained.
We went on passed a Crayfish Farm Reserve. It takes 11 years for a crayfish to mature I understand. Then we passed Shot Tower where a Scotaman Joseph Moroy opened a quarry to make shot. He built the tower in 4 months. The tower is open to the public.
We stopped to take a look at the ancient Alum Cliffs with green likens (I think it is called). There is also orange cliffs further on. They were impressive, you could clearly see how they had developed over the centuries.
Then we passed Kingston Bay where dogs can roam freely. It is the only beach in Tasmania where dogs are allowed without a lead.
Tasmanians don`t like to work apparently. If they have to travel for more than 30 minutes they just will not go.
It was choppy wind along this part of the Derwent River because we were heading into the wind. The clouds ahead looked very black, not much blue sky now. Along this part of the coast there were lots of little caves. Further along little farms and forest.
In D`Eatrecasteaux Channel at Dennes Point Reserve the Captain let down a Spyball Camera so we could look at the reef below. The marine life in this water are protected. Not many fish to be seen today, only a crayfish, sponges and seaweed.
As we continued we had North West Bay on the right and Bruny Island on the left. The French first landed here and made friends with the natives. They looked at Bruny Island in wonderment. The Aboriginals have a saying "Take from the land only what you need and leave only foot prints".
The Bruny ferry passed by. It use to go into Barnes Bay. The name of the ferry was "Mirambeena". The children have to take this ferry to school.
There were only black clouds ahead whilst behind I could see bright sunshine. We stopped at Woodbridge - Perrermint Bay- to pick up our lunch. In the bay I saw a little pod which use to be used by Researchers in the Antartic as living quarters, but is being used here for students to study the marine life.
We cruised around the bay whilst we ate our excellent lunch of oysters, smoked salmon, fish pata, chicken, ham, pickles, potatoe and green salad with a glass of wine.
We came across a seal, a seahawk and a magnificent rainbow.
I took a walking tour of Woodbridge when we were allowed off for a hour to explore. There were some old buildings from around 1854. George Mills who owned 13 acres in this area called it "Woodbridge" after his birthplace in Suffolk.
Pepperemint Bay gets its name from the giant green stringy barked trees called Peppermint Gum which clothes the hills in the area. They would be felled, pitsawn into lengths and sent down river to Hobart. The sawpits were established in 1820. Houses started to appear where the trees had been cleared.
On the way back we came to the Fish Farms where they farm salmon. The salmon were jumping with excitement because there were several seals swimming around. I tried to get a picture of them but they were to quick for me.
We passed Opossam Bay and Gilbert Point where there is a Cassino. Gilberts Point many years ago was the hanging place for criminals and their bodies would be left to hang for the wild life to eat.
We passed under the famous Tasman Bridge that was knocked down by the ship carrying iron ore. We viewed the spot, and I also a colony of seabids sitting on one of the giant posts holding the bridge up.
I checked out of the hostel just before 10am. I had intended to catch the early bus to the airport but I saw the bus before the early bus that was running late, so I got on it. Spent the morning at the airport reading. I did find a lady from Sydney waiting for her friends to pick her up. We had a long chat which helped past the time.
I arrived in Melbourne with a bang! I decided to take a taxi because I didn`t know where or how far my hotel was from the airport. I was directed to a taxi, as the driver got out of his cab to help me with my luggage, another taxi drove into his door. I heard a loud bang - oops!! Problems.
I sat in the back of the cab whilst the two taxi drivers had a shouting match. I was called to be a witness. I`m only here over night I told them, but I gave them my mobile number and email address anyway. Then I found out that the hotel was only 7 minutes walk anyway.
There wasn`t anything for me to do at the hotel so went to bed with a huge bar of chocolate and watched TV. Heaven!!!
Spent most of the day hanging around but nevertheless the time did go quickly. My plane was not due to leave until 15.10 and I had to leave the hotel at 10am. As there was nowhere to wait at the hotel I walked across the road to McDonalds where I sat for 2 hours with a large cup of coffee. I did have a chat with the cleaner who thought I was an Aussie at first. He didn`t think my accent sounded English, it was to sing songy. He wanted to talk about British Politics, particularly about Northern Ireland. He wanted to go to visit relatives but was worried because he was a Catholic.
He told me he had worked for years for the government office in Melbourne but the hours were long and pay less than cleaning at McDonalds. Perhaps, I had better change my views of McDonalds.
At noon I decided to make my way to the Airport. I found that the heavy fog earlier had caused all the flights to be delayed. It was at that time a lovely sunny day. A big difference to the last time I was in Melbourne.
My travelling companion on the plane was a young man in his 20`s named Carl who was relocating from Victoria to Western Australia. He was a happy go lucky lad with a ready smile, a chat and a joke. Judging by his excitiment, I don`t think he had flown very much. He told me that his father was born on the boat coming over to Australia from one of the former USSR countries (I think he said Lapvia).
His grandfather had recently dies and left his father a lot of land and several houses in his homeland. He had therefore sold the family home to go home to claim his inheritance, leaving Carl homeless.
His ambition he told me was to travel and see a bit of the world before he settled down. Western Australia was a start. He had been working as a Salesman but his friend had found him a job as a plasterer. He was intersted in hearing about my travels. He wanted to know if I had ever been to Ibiza. When I told him I had been there once, he was really impressed. He told me it was his ambition to live in Ibiza one day. No accounting for taste I guess. It`s the last place I would want to revisit, not today anyway.
My friends Carole and Dave were at the airport to meet me. It was lovely to see them again. We went to their lovely home in the suburbs of Perth. Carole has always had a flare for homemaking. She has made me a cosy, luxurious, romantic room. It is heaven, a backpackers paradise. I even have a picture of Harrison, my little grandson, looking cheeky.
Dave opened a bottle of champagne in the garden.
Carols house is a big contrast to the way I had been living in the Backpacking Hotels. All I had there was bed space and a bit of floor on which to deposit my pack. I lived from the pack and shared everything else. The bedroom, loo, shower, kitchen, laundry, and computer if able to get ciber time. And somehow I always managed to get the top bunk. Getting in and out of the bunk was not an easy task, especially after a drink.
At Carole and Dave`s house I have a whole suite of rooms. It`s heaven, I am not going to want to leave in a hurry.
This morning I was introduced to her wild birds. Every morning around 7.30am she puts out their food. In seconds there are whole flocks of them fighting to get to the food. Grey and red ones, white ones, green ones, little ones, big ones,all kinds of birds that I am not familar. If she is late they make such a fuss. We have the same performance in the evening. I enjoyed watching them and her dog is so good with them. She and the birds understand each other.
Today, Carole and her mother-in-law Rose took me out for lunch to the Botanic Golf Park where there is an interesting restaurant called "Leap Frog" Cafe. We sat in the garden to eat a delicious lunch with a couple of glasses of wine. It was a warm sunny day with the temperatures at 20 degrees. We took a walked around the park.
Rose, then me to see where she lives in the Lake Joondalup Lifestyle Village. It is beautiful, just like a holiday resort which has all the amenities. It had a good relaxed feel about it.
Carole and I went shopping In Wooneroo then took a drive to nearby Burns Beach where we had coffee and cakes.
We had a bit of excitement as we were watching TV. It went pop very loudly and was no more. We had a sound but no picture. Dave very calmly said "Lets go to buy a new one." I was surprised because it was already 7.30pm. Apparently, Thursday is late night shopping. The shops don`t close until 9pm. So off we went to the warehouse to buy a new telly.
We went today to Mindarie Keys where Carole and I had lunch at the Boat Restaurant in the Marina. We then went to Quinns Rock returning on the Wanneroo Road.
I heard today that the Letting Agent may have someone interested in renting my house. At least I am going to have some income. Hooray!!!!!!!!!!!
Carole, Dave and I had breakfast in Fremantle then went for a wander around the market, harbour and museums.
The habour was established in 1829 as a port for the Swan River. Many Emigrants first set foot in Australia on Fremantle Wharf. The area maintains a mixture of cultures and nationalities. Outside the new Maritime Museum can be seen lists of the names of thousands of emigrants that have landed in Fremantle between the 1980`s and 1970`s.
There is a tram that tours Fremantle from which can be seen the Town Hall, port, man- made harbours, lighthouse, prison, churches and museums.
We choose to walk through the E Shed Market on the Victoria Quay ("E" means Emigration Sheds), where we found some fine art and crafts. On the way we passed the maginificent station with its beautiful architectural dating from the 1800`s. We walked passed the Fremantle Motor Museum, Customes House, O`Connor Landing Ferry Terminal, The Round House, Whalers Tunnel, Shipwreck Galleries, Old Court House and Town Hall.
The new Maritime Museum looked very much as if it had been styled on the Sydney Opera House, and it had a Ovens type Submarine on display outside.
We stopped at the Round House to take a closer look. It was established as a British Colony for free settles in 1829. Convicts arrived in 1850, when it was used as a goal. It is built on headland which overlooks the river mouth and has uninterrupted views of Cockburn Sound. It was an obvious place for navigation lights and a signalling station.
Stocks were installed in the Round House in the 1840`s and a 15-years-old murderer was hanged there in 1844.
A Whaling Tunnel was built under the Round House to give easy access from the beach to the town. A lookout would alert boat crews after sighting a whale and the chase would be on. Captured whales would be towed back to the beach and precessed.
The first convicts arrived in 1850 to boost the colony`s labour force.
The headland was always in demand by port authorities and for defences due to its prominent position and its proximity to the port. The battery here existed until 1942.
Even today, a Time Ball exists. We watched as the cannon was blasted to let ship`s Captains in the harbour check the time. It was once a valuable way of rating their chronometer so accurate navigation at sea was possible. At the same time a ball is hoisted to the top of the town three minutes before 1pm and is released at exactly 1pm.
Fremantle is a big tourist area and it was packed with tourists enjoying a range of cultural activities in a relaxed atmosphere. There were many buskers displaying their talents. One in particular was an Opera Singer who had a beautiful voice and surely must have been a professional singer. Carole bought her CD.
I have since discovered that the singers name was Fiona Mariah, and Australian who had completed her formal music studies in London. She had played on the London West End Stage as Carlotta in "Phantom of the Opera" between 1998 and 2000. She has since returned to Australia to bring up her young son.
At the Town Hall I left Carole and Dave to do their business whilst I walked across the road to take a closer look at the statue. No sooner had I stopped, when a middle aged Mafia looking Italian gentleman with gold teeth and a popped belly stopped to talk to me. He told me he had come to Australia from Italy in 1949, and was looking for a wife. He wanted to know if I was available. "No", I said. "I`ve only come to look at the statue!"
We returned back to Joondalup by the West Coast Highway passing through Leighton Beach, Port Beach, Cottesloe, Swanbourne, City Beach, Scarborough, Trigg, North Beach, Sorrento Quay, Hillary`s Boat Harbour and Ocean Reef.
It was a warm sunny afternoon, so we went to visit the block where my friend`s daughter Hannah and her husband Jason are building a new house. They had bought the land some time ago, together with another block of land that they have already developed. Jason is in the building trade and is a champion Tiler. He has won several national competitions in recent years. The new house they have just designed with the help of an architect, has just had its foundations laid. It is all very exciting, Jason does a lot of the work himself. I took pictures of it now and hopefully it will be completed by the time I leave after Christmas.
In the evening we went out with the next door neighbours. They originally came from the North of England and have settled in Australia. Joanne is a Nurse and Paul a Plumber.
We went to a Thai Restaurant in Joondalup where I was amazed to find that it was possible to take your own alcohol. Apparently, it is quite common here. They call it a BYO restaurant. The restaurtant has no license to sell alcohol on the premises but customers can bring their own. They also put the left overs in a food container to take home.
There was no cheap plonk for Carole, we had to drink Pink Champagne.
Carole and I spent the morning attending a Fete at the Lake Joondalup Lifestyle Village where her Mum-in-Law lives. It was a lovely sunny morning. Carole bought me a TV for my room from the Bric-a-Brac stall I am being so spoilt), and I got a new pair of bright pink thongs (Flip Flops).
During the afternoon Dave took us for drive into the country, travelling along the Great Northern Highway to Bullsbrook and the Chittering Valley Road which goes up into the hills. It is a big citrus growing area as well as vines for the wine.
We stopped at a farm to buy oranges and lemons. Then we continued meadering through the ever changing scenery of rural W.A. We stopped to sample the wines as we went.
We saw wild emu and kangaroo in the bushland as we drove by on route.
I saw many trees that I don`t see much in the UK. Trees like eucalyptus, grass trees (more commonly known at blackboys but not used now because it`s not poltically correct), Norfolk Island Pines (I love these trees, all their pines face the sky, I think they look happy), tulip trees with beautiful deep orange blossoms (don`t know their proper name), and New Zealand Christmas Trees.
Carole and I have had a day of Retail Therapy at Kingsway City, a local shopping centre. As it is school half-term, the store had shipped in a small farmyard to keep the children happy. There were several lambs, a calf, piglets, chicks, puppies, bunny rabbits and others.
We spent most of our shopping time looking for a CD rack for David. Couldn`t find one, doesn`t anyone listen to CD`s anymore? We even tried the secondhand shops, but no luck. Looks like Dave will have to make one.
Yesterday, I hear, a rather large shark was found to be swimming offshore at Ocean Reef, our local beach. A small group of amateur fishman took their boat out and could not understand why they were not catching any fish. Then they saw a shark approximately 15` long making a circuit of the boat. They managed to get some very good pictures of it with the camera on their mobile `phone. It certainly was a big fellow, he just swam around for a while then tried to attack the boat, leaving a bit of a bent in its side, but when it realised it was not going to be able to push it over, it swam off.
Carole & I went to the Pinneroo Valley Memorial Park, which is the most beautiful cemetery I have ever visited. I didn`t realise at first that it was a cemetery because the memorial stones were discreetly positioned around the park.
The park is situated in the middle of natural bushland forest with many native trees, bushes, animals and birds. There were endless grassed areas amongst the forest. There were waterfalls, lakes and many kangaroos living wild. They were obviously comfortable with their surroundings. No doubt, there were other wild animals that we were not able to see, like snakes. Carole is afraid of the snakes, but I was told by the lady at the museum in Hobart that they only attack if they are cornered or threatened. We saw so many beautiful colourful wild birds.
We then drove to the Sorrento Quay at Hillary`s Boat Harbour where we had lunch. It was a warm sunny day with the temperature in its 20`s. We sat on the sea wall in the harbour soaking up the sun for a while before walking around to the beach.
At the beach we found another children`s farmyard and many little children paddling in the ocean. It was difficult to believe that it was mid-winter.
In the North West of Melbourne they were experiencing snow and Sydney had temperatures of -3.
Went with Carole to Neil Hawkins Park in the Yellagonga (not sure about the spelling) National Park that overlooks the wetland and bush of Lake Joondalup. It was once inhabited by the Aboriginal Natives who lived around this very large lake. It is now inhabited by many beautiful Black Swans and other water fowl. We also saw long necked turtles swimming around.
As we looked over the lake we saw in the distance a large bush fire which was sending up a lot of very black smoke. However, it was under under control by the time we left the lake some time later.
We walked along the bush path for a while where we could hear the birds singing in the tree tops. There were mainly white parrots, but we did see some green parrots, gillets, doves, big crows and others. We didn`t see any wild animals this time but no doubt they were around.
Carole and Dave enjoy the birds and to encourage them into their garden, Dave built a large bird table which stands in a prominent spot in the garden.
Dave tells a story about how the birds never came to feed for a while after they erected their table, so as a joke he pinned a large notice on it which said, " Free Food for Parrots".
The next day the birds were fighting for the food. Who says Parrots can`t read??
It has been pouring with rain all day long so we had what Carole calls a Veggie Day. We spent the day relaxing around the house watching UK-TV. We watched all the best UK TV shows like "East Enders", "Frost", "The Bill", and "Emmerdale".
East Enders is my favourite soap and Jason`s favourite, too. He is a big fan, he watches both episodes each day. I have offered to tell him what happens because they are only just watching the story from last January. He has turned me down.
The rain was really heavy, couldn`t see across the road at one stage, but I must say, it is badly needed.
In the evening we had a Celebration because Dave had been awarded a big paywise for all the hard work he had put into his job recently. He is an Electrical Designer in the Oil Trade. He has been working on a big project which has been very successful. All the men have come off shore today and coming done to Perth from Broome for a big celebration lunch tomorrow, Friday. Carole and I were already a bit merry before he even got home.
Several years back Dave and Carole returned to the UK for a few years. When they got back Dave went to an Agency to find a job. They sent him for two interviews. One in Witham where they were living, and the other was PFE. Small World !!
Been feeling a bit under the weather for the past couple of days with a mysterious illness, lumpy armpits. Those of you that know me well will know that I don`t do ill or doctors.
Carole was getting worried, at first it was ticks, then boils, then glands, then mosquito bites, then a poisonour spider bite, then an incurable virus. Whatever, it was making me feel lethargic and sick.
It didn`t stop me going to the girlie morning with the local ladies and drink coffee.
For lunch we picked up Mum-in-law and went to Waldecks Garden Centre at Kingsley. I always find a walk around a garden centre works wonders, and it did.
It was a better day, no rain, and some sunshine. Perth is warmer than a lot of other areas. There are places that are experiencing minus temperatures that have never done so before in their history.
Friday, is Carole`s night for catching up with friends but I declined to go out dancing, I felt it would be better for me to rest my lumpy armpits.
The rain is back with avengeance, but it didn`t deter us from going out. As Dave drove out of his drive it was raining so hard we could hardly see in front of us, and the roads were flooding. However, it did ease up as we continued our journey to the old colonial town of Guildford in the Swan Valley.
On the way we passed field upon field of vines. The Swan Valley is a big wine making area with wineries at every turn of the road. We stopped at Pinelli`s Winery, a family concern, they are Carole and Dave`s favourite. I noted that Pinelli`s had won many awards for their wines throughout the years, so they must be good. Carole and Dave stocked up for themselves, other family members and the neighbours. Carole and I tasted a couple of the different wines before continuing our journey into Guildford.
At Guildford we visited the big Woodbridge Colonial House which is now a National Trust Building. Unfortunately, the house was closed to visitors during July, but the Cafe beside the Swan River was open. We stopped for breakfast.
As we sat outside the cafe, which incidently, was undercover, we watched the local rowing club practising their sport in the rain.
As we left the cafe I decided I wanted to be nosey, so I went to look through the windows of the big house. Dave and Carole got back into the car in the car parking area. I looked around and saw their grey car coming towards the house, so I stood on the driveway of the house waiting for them. But, they didn`t stop, they drove passed me and stopped. I walked towards them, they moved forward, I followed, they moved forward again, then started to drive away. I ran after them. I was running up the drive after teir car as fast as I could run in the rain. I thought they were having a game with them. I started to call them some choice names, then they stopped. I opened the back door to jump into the back seat when I discovered that it was the wrong car. Instead of Dave and Carole, it was a couple of young girls sitting in the front seat. We had such a laugh!! Dave and Carole were still sitting in the car park watching me and laughing their heads off.
We did stop in the town of Guildford to look around a few antique shops, of which there are several. As we were in the shops opposite the station we saw the famous Indian Pacific Train pass. This train runs between Perth and Sydney. I had at one time thought I would take this train to Sydney but found my budget would not allow it.
During the evening we went with a group of friends, to the Joondalup Resort, a five star hotel, for a "Christmas in July" dinner. It is the Australian`s excuse to have what we British would have in December, a turkey dinner banquet.
The hotel is very posh so Carole helped make me look glamous for the occasion. My pack doesn`t allow for glamour.
It is a large hotel and there was a lot of activity with a Scottish Wedding with kilts and bagpipes, and a "Christmas in July" Dinner/Dance taking place as well as the dinner we were attending.
The food was exquisit. It was a buffet, help yourself type meal and there was so much food to choose from. Soups, every kind of seafood possible, salads with sun dried tomates, avocados, olives, feta cheese, artichokes etc. Roasted meats, meat pies, Irish Stew, Satay Chicken, every kind of vegetable, and magnificent sweets, as well as Christmas Pudding and mince pies. It was delicious!!!
I stayed in bed until I heard Dave`s Mum arrived to say goodbye for she was off for a two week holiday in Broome.
July seems to be the time of year when the Australians go for their holidays. Several friends appear to have had their holiday or are just going on holiday. One couple had just returned from Exmouth and another were going to Melbourne. The school children have a two week half-term holiday this time of year.
In the afternoon we made a visit to the block to view the house building. We found that the brick layers had managed to build three of the outer walls dispite the rain. We are praying that it stays fine so they can get on with their job. I want to see the house finished by the time I leave.
Hannah related some of the strangest happenings that went on at the last house they built. It appears that as soon as they moved in, they began to hear some really wierd nosies in the house that could not be explained. This was followed by lots of weird happenings that made them so frightened, they decided they didn`t want to stay in the house, so they sold it quickly.
Several other houses built on the same site, also sold their houses, some have changed hands several times in a short space of time. They have since discovered that the land was once an Aboriginal Burial Ground. Sounds to me as if the natives are still trying to fight back. What do you think??????????
We have had a day of hight winds, heavy rain and thunder. The wind was so strong that the flower pots became airborne at one stage, the rain lashed down on and off all day, and the thunder sent Cassie, the dog, hiding under my bed.
I decided it was a good day to do research for my next trip. I am planning to go back on the road in August, and it will probably be my most adventureous trip yet. Getting there is no problem because it is a one way deal, and getting back to Perth is proving a headache. I could find myself stuck in the Outback alone for a day or two, or having to travel half way around the Country to get back, which will be a great deal of unnecessary expense. I will keep you posted.
The children returned to school today so we decided it would be a good time to venture into the city of Perth on the train.
The train here runs in the middle of the highway with cars running along either side of the track. The ticket machine was out of order but we got on the train anyway. Like the honest lady that I am, I offered the train official at the other end, the money to pay for my journey. "No worries", he said "Pay next time." So I got the ride free courtesy of Australian Railways.
First, we went to London Court, which has some unique architecture. The
Australians have captured a setting and atmosphere of Tudar England with its retail walkway of old fashioned English looking shops, balconies and a clock that plays a musical drama every 15 minutes. The clock is a replica of Big Ben in London, England.
This week, the street is celebrating its 70th Birthday but, unfortunately, it was to wet for the Buskers to be out performing their art.
It was, in fact, to stormy to do much sightseeing so we went shopping instead. We were on a mission to hunt down a special dress for Carole who has a very important "Black Tie Dinner/Dance" to attend with her husband.
Carole is always well turned out so this new dress has to be something exquisite. She has her own style and it was not an easy task, but we had a good try. We walked our feet off looking in all the smartest shops Perth could offer. Carole looked the part but I don`t know what the salesgirls thought of me looking through their most expensive frocks in my big walking boots and North Face Jacket. We didn`t find anything so the hunt continues.
It has been raining for a week now, and when it rains here is really rains. It just lashes down for a while, then it will suddenly stop, then start again after a short break. When in the house it often sounds worse than it is outside because it echos on the tin roof.
When stuck in the house I will usually hide in Dave`s very comfortable office. He is currently working very long hours. He leaves for the office in the City before 5am and returns around 7pm. He works for the Oil Trade and has just finished one project in the Timor Sea, in Northern Australia, and is starting another.
Today, I spent 4 hours on the computer completing surveys for the organisation "Hostleworld", and catching up with my emails. It feels just like being back at work.
As soon as I arrived in Australia I discovered that their Winter is much colder than I had imagined, and I had not brought along enough warm clothing. whilst, I was on the road I kept warm by wearing nearly all my clothes at the same time.
When I arrived in Perth, Carole did manage to find me a few warm clothes, but she is a little bigger than I. So she took me along to the Retro Boutique at the Salvo Centre, i.e. Salvation Army Charity Shop.
A very smart charity shop it is, too. We spent ages sorting the racks and I came away with a couple of nice bits that will keep me going until the warmer weather arrives.
We also took in a bit of culture at the Joondalup Community Art Exhibition 2007. It is the 10th Year that they have held this exhibition which is to support and showcase the diversity and talent of the local artists in the Community. It covered a broad spectrum of themes and styles. Painting, works on paper, 3-dimensional work, photomedia, textiles and the artists were awarded cash prizes to help them continue their art. The highest prize being 1,000 Aus. dollars. I personally thought it was an excellent display of the talent in the area.
Dave, who is a bit of an amateur genealogist, has found that one of his ancesters travelled over to Australia on one of the ships of the first fleet of 11 ships to travel the 9 month journey to the new land.
The lady, Elizabeth Meech and her husband were sentenced in Exeter for stealing lace and a length of chain. They were deported but he can only find records of her arriving, there was no mention of her husband.
One of Carol`s relatives, F. K Panter, has a monument to commemorate his heroric death. Her was a policeman sent to Fremantle to protect the newly formed settlement and lost his life trying to protect it from Aboriginal natives.
Dave showed me an article printed in the Daily Mail a few days ago, about the first convoy of convicts that came to Australia. The fleet set sail from England in 1787. They were sent in chains to colonise the new and dangerous shores on the other side of the world for minor crimes like that of a lady named Elizabeth Beckford. She was 70-years- old and her crime was stealing 12lbs of Gloucester Cheese.
There were some 736 people on the pioneering voyage, and Elizabeth was a founder member of the new country called Australia. 163,000 followed. Two million of us British probably have blood links with those criminals.
Elizabeth was not the oldest woman on the first voyage. Dorthothy Handland, a dealer in rags and old clothes, was 82. How she was expected to contribute to building a new community in such a hard virgin land is a mystery, but never-the-less she was amongst the first prisoners dragged down to the docks at Plymouth because the British prisons were all full. They were dressed in rags, their faces pale, louse-ridden and were painfully thin.
Alongside these elderly ladies were 120 other women, mostly young. There were also several young lads who were exiled for petty crimes. The youngest was 9-year-old, chimney sweep, John Hudson. They were never to see home again.
The women were treated like whores by the crew members. The voyage took 9 months to complete. Eventually, after a horrendous journey they made it to dry land as the ships anchored at Botany Bay, Sydney. 48 people died - 40 of them convicts, five children.
The land they reached was as tough as any prison in Britain. It took 2 weeks before there were enough tents and huts to house the female convicts. They had to stay on the boats until these were ready.
At first the Officers who ran the colony were in despire but they survived the hardship of the first year and they eventually became self-supporting.
Dorothy handland at 84 years old had endured so much since leaving England, she hung herself from a gum tree. She was Australia`s first recorded suicide.
I also had a Scottish relative, a policeman, who ventured overseas but he went to Canada. I remember listening, as a child, to the stories about to his travels. In todays world we are all so accustomed to travelling, we loose sight of the courage, danger and hardship that our forebearers had to face to travel to the other side of the World.
We made another trip to Fremantle to visit the E-Shed Market, then had lunch at the Fishing Boat Harbour. It had a very different atmostphere to the last visit two weeks ago. Last time it was packed with tourists but the weather has turned cooler and much wetter since. It was very quiet.
We lunched on fish and chips in a Restaurant where they serve the food still wrapped in paper, wisy a glass of wine if wanted. As we sat at an outside table we watched pelicans swimming in the harbour, and the sea gulls demolish the left overs of a meal on the table next to us. We also saw the "West Coast Princess", the longest cargo train I have ever seen passby on its way to Perth and beyond.
Across the road from the Restaurant was the historic Commissariat Building. It was built in 1851 to store the vast quantities of food, clothing and building equipment used by prisoners and their guards.
The building continued to be used by the Government as a store until 1977. It stored wool, craypots and othere fishing gear impounded by the Department of Fisheries and Wildlife.
It is now a Museum responsible for preserving historically important shipwrecks. It is called the Shipwreck Galleries, and we spent about an hour wandering around this small museum. It held so much interesting data about shipping in a bygone age.
Off shore we saw what looked like a Sheep Carrier taking live sheep to the Middle East to be slaughtered. They have to transport sheep live to the Arab Countries because they will not buy dead meat for religious reasons. Apparently, there is a great deal of controversy around the way sheep are transported.
We went on the the town of Claremont, a weathly suburb. It was here that we managed to find in one of the boutiques, the "Post Frock" we had been looking for Carole.
We drove on to the beautiful Kings Park from which there are sweeping views of Central Perth and the River. Much of it is natural bushland with a year round display of Western Australia`s unique flora. I understand that the best time is September when the Spring Flowers burst into colour.
I saw magnificent large Morton Bay Fig Trees and my favourite colourful trees that I only know as Tulip Trees. They are just blooming.
From the hill escarpment that surrounds Perth, I saw where the Swan River and the Canning River converge before the sun went down and the lights came on.
Perth has been know as the "City of Lights" since astronaut John Glenn requested on his first orbit of the world, that everybody in Perth switch on their lights because the sky was so dark over the Northern parts of Australia. This they did, and it lite up the sky especially for him.
We made a trip to Subiaco Weekend Market which is only a few mintues drive from Central Perth, but about 30 mintues drive from Carramar where I am staying.
There were many stalls with an array of goods from orginal artworks, Austrlaian gifts, clothes, jewellery, fruit, vegetables and flowers. I was astonished at the variety of fruits and vegetables on sale. Many of which I didn`t even know existed, let alone seen.
Wanneroo, the ared in which Carole and Dave live is in the Market Garden area of Western Australia. Most of the meals eaten on the Airlines are packed locally with food grown in these Market Gardens.
As we drove along the highway towards the City I was interested in the number of "Beware of Kangaroo" signs I saw along the road. Obviously they are a big hazard.
On the way home we dropped off to see Hannah and Jason who were busy working on their new house. Jason was working on the swimming pool. As we looked around at what had already been achieved we were joined by 4 hens from the house next door. They had made their way under the fence to find out what was going on.
I am fasinated by the way they conduct business in the building trade here. There is a lot of building going on around Perth, especially along the coast. There seems to be a building site on every corner, but I am told that the building boom was at its highest a couple of years ago. It was almost impossible to find a builder available then.
If you are in a trade here it is possible to almost build your house on what they call "Love Jobs". I do your job if you do mine sort of thing.
For instance my friend Jason is a Tiler, and a very good one. (No. 3 in the world a couple of years back - I didn`t even know there were competitions for that sort of thing).
I hear he has managed to come to arrangements with the kitchen fitter and the swimming pool engineer to make his kitchen and swimming pool and in return he will do tiling. His brother is building the roof and his mates are brick laying.
It is a great shame we in the UK do not follow their example and do "Love Jobs" to share our talents with our friends and associates.
The weather forecast says that clear skies can be expected within the next few days. My current pass time is sitting in the garden under cover watching the birds and the rain.
The rain is amazing here, it is so localised. It can be lashing down on one side of the road and dry on the other. I noted today that the rain was coming from different directions at the same time. It looked so strange. Then later, I found that it was only raining on one half of the garden. I stood on the lawn and found it was raining on my left but not on the right. It appeared as if there was a invisable line through the middle.
On the right I could see the rain clouds building up over the Ocean and on the left there were two very large rainbows side by side. It was beautiful and fasinating.
I am having so many different experiences here, and because they are new they are exciting. I would never have believed that I would find rain exciting.
A very large whale found its way into Hilary`s Boat Harbour, just a short way down the coast here. Sadly the whale died. Now the authorities have to find a way to dispose of the body. They may have to get a crane to remove it.
I had been hearing about whales coming close to shore this time of year to give birth to their young. Unfortunately this particular whale came to close to shore, perhaps because of the bad weather.
Another day watching the rain and the birds.
Sun came out so Carole and I went to Yanchep N.P. Acres of bush land where the animals roam free and the birds are in abundance. Walked the wetland trail (2+ km) that surrounds the tranquil Wagardu Lake (Lock McNess). The name comes from the Aboriginal name Yanget, the name for the bulrush, which is edible reeds that grow in the Swan Coastal Plain. Nyoogar people lived at Yanchep.
Went out with friends and danced the night away at The Old Bailey in Joondalup,with the TV Weather Man.
At Hilarys Boat Harbor met up with family friend Adrian. A journalist from the UK who came to live in the South of Perth several years ago.
I experienced Swap Meet (Boot Sale) at Wanneroo. I didnt find anything I was unable to live without.
I was picked up for the trip from Perth to Darwin in heavy rain which followed all the way to the Pinnacle Desert, in the Nambung National Park. Rocks are only 25 million years old.
Continued journey past Geraldton, a fairly large town with a sea port and airport. Stopped at Northampton to buy drinks for the evening.
Over night stop was at a beach house at Horrocks, Nr Kalbarri. 18 Europeans on this trip, mostly young. Mixed dorms, I shared with an Irish Couple.
Early start, we saw sunrise from the bus whilst on route to Kalbarri National Park. Walked the Murchison River George trail 2.6 km to river bed. A ruggid climb down the gorge, clambering over sandstone boulders. Some of the group abseiled down rock face. I watched.
Climbed back to Lookout, then onto the Loop and Natures Window. Had a picnic lunch further down river. I found some Black Swans at Galons Bridge.
Moved onto the Shell Beach for sunset. The beach is made up of tiny shells. Stayed overnight at Monkey Mia in the Shark Bay area.
Saw the sunrise this time over the Ocean before breakfast, then went back to the beach at Monkey Mia Resort to watch the Dolphins come into shore looking for food. Pelicans were also hoping for tip bits.
Left Resort for Denham Town, most westerly town in Australia. A Salt Mine is located in the Useless Loop.
Drove to Hamelin Pool along Peron Peninsula. Here we found Stromatolites. They are living cells. Walked the Boolagoorda Trail where camel trains use to transport wool to the ferry. Nearby was a Shell Quarry. The Ocean is too salty here for fish.
Continued journey stopping briefly at Canarvon where the OTC Space Centre is based.
Stopped over night at Coral Bay. A small town with a magnificent beach.
Spent day at Coral Bay. Took Glass Bottom Boat Trip to view the Ningaloo Reef and the fantastic marine life. I was introduced to snorkeling over the reef. The girls on the boat taught me. It was great, an experience I would never have wanted to miss.
After lunch I relaxed with others on the beach, until late afternoon when we drove along the peninsula to Exmouth Cape where we were to stay for 2 nights.
A day on the beach. Exmouth is mainly an Air force and Communications base. Originally, a Port for the Pearl Industry but now a popular game fishing, snorkeling and diving area.
We went to Cape Range National Park and Ningaloo Marine Park Bay to snorkel off the beach. There is 4,000 sq. km of reef in this area.
Lunch was at Milyering Visitors Centre where I watched a film about the fish found in the area. We then drove into Turquoise Bay where it was possible to see bigger fish on the Tidal Loop. Unfortunately, to advanced for my snorkeling capabilities. I stayed near to shore.
We headed in land to the oasis of Karijini. Stopped at Nanutarra Roadhouse, the most expensive in Australia because it is in the middle of nowhere. The river nearby is called the Beasley River.
Stopped at Tom Price in the Iron Mining area to take on more provisions before making our way to set up camp overlooking the magnificent Hamersley Range (2 1/2 million years old).
Hamersley Range is rich in minerals and nature resources. It is Aboriginal land. 20 languages are spoken in this area and it has Serpents living in the mountains.
Saw a magnificent Sunset. Spent first night under the stars. It was very cold when the sun went down.
After breakfast we went clambering over the rocks down the gorge to get to the river bed. It was a hard climb, once down we had a rest then climbed back up to view Jeffre Waterfall from the top.
We had an early lunch before jumping in the bus for the Visitors Centre which was run by Aboriginals, then walked in the Dale Gorge to the Round Pool and another waterfall. Here we stopped to swim before walking onto Fortescue Falls and Fern Pool for another swim.
Had problems with the bus.
We took two Class 5 walks in the gorge down to pools at the bottom of the gorge. It was extremely adventurous. There was a great deal of rock climbing on both walks. The first was to Hancock Gorge. We had to shinny along the narrow canyon. It was possible to touch both sides of rock face with the river between our legs. This was called Spider Walk. There were small ledges on which to step and hold. It was slippy in parts. At the end was Kermits Pool.
After lunch we walked to Weano Gorge, which was more difficult and very slippy at times. Between the rocks rapids ran. Once we made it down to Junction Pool we had to hang onto a hand rail to get to another pool. Not only did ewe have to hang onto the rail for our lives because the rock was very slippy and steep, we had to negotiate a climb down a rope. Once there we had to get into water of 2 degrees to get to the Jade Pool.
It was exciting and I felt really proud of myself to have been able to make it all the way and back.
Had a 4 hour climb up Mt. Bruce which is the second highest in Australia. I was afraid I wouldnt make it because I had a tummy problem, but I made it and the views were rewarding. However, on way down I slipped and fell into a Surflux Bush a prickle bush and got a hand full of splinters.
After lunch we drove onto Auski Roadhouse where we saw a helicopter. One of our team, Sarah, was invited to go for a ride. The rest of us watched.
We camped at Indee Station in a dried up river bed. It had been hit badly by a cyclone last year which had left it with a lot of damage. It had only just re-opened. The Homestead invited the team to Happy Hour so we could meet some real Australians.
Left camp and made for Port Headland which is a shipping port. It is a mining area. The trains here are the longest in the world. Usually 5 km long and need 6 engineers to pull them.
We had a long drive to 80 mile Beach Resort where we found lots of jelly fish and people fishing from the shore.
Stopped at Sandfire Roadhouse for lunch. Here we found peacocks, one was white.
We had one more stop at Plains Roadhouse before arriving in Broome. 80% of the worlds pearls are processed in Broome. We had a tour of the town of Broome before being dropped off at hostel at Cable Beach.
Later we had a party at Divers Tavern for the end of the first stage of our trip. Some of our team, now 21 people, were going to be leaving us, including our guide Dave. The party went onto another pub then the beach. I got to bed 3.30am.
Spent morning washing, afternoon exploring the town, and evening at Cable Beach watching the sunset over the Ocean and the camels walking along the beach.
Got up early with 5 others and went to the other end of Cable Beach to see the Dinosaurs Footprints which are embedded in Sandstone at the base of the cliffs and can only be seen at low tide of 13 m. On this day it was 7.20 am. If not on the beach at this time, they would be missed and we would have to wait until tide was at that level again. The footprints are believed to be of the Carnivorous species that lived 120 million years ago. I got some good pictures.
We started the second stage of the trip with a new tour guide Adrian, writer on Aboriginal Art and the Outback. He has already published 4 books.
Stopped at Roebuck Plain Roadhouse and Wallace Bridge Roadhouse on way to Derby Area. Derby is where Flying Doctor facility was established. Saw Boab Tree 1500 years old and so big is was used as a prison. We entered Gibb River Road, a dirt road used for the cattle programme.
After lunch we headed for the Oscar Road and on to Tunnel Creek, a 750 mtr tunnel that passed under the Napier Range. We saw Aboriginal rock art and waded through the creek.
Started the day with a walk into the Devonia Reef. It is as big as Great Barrier Reef but older. It used to be underwater but only some now. Windjana Gorge has freshwater crocodiles. I took a few pictures.
We had problems with the bus so stopped to make camp at Silent Grove on the Gibb Road. At Bell Gorge we walked over the rocks to Rock Pool then the Lowe Pool where we had a swim.
Visited Imintji Roadhouse and saw Aboriginal paintings by a 13 year old artist. Moved into Adcock Creek where we were shown an old habitation site used by Aboriginals until 1920âs. Adrian found site only 3 weeks ago. He then took us to the burial site he also found nearby.
After lunch we walked to Manning Gorge in Mt. Barnett area. Here we learnt a bit about Bush Tucker.
We swam in Adcock Creek pool, swinging from ropes into the water. Later we had a ruggid walk to get to the pool in Manning Gorge, crossing the river first by swimming and ferrying our luggage across in boxes.
We continued along the Gibb River Road, traveling through some ancient and spectacular country before crossing the Pentecost River and heading to the famous El Questro Station.
Set up camp, had lunch before walking a rugged path over rocks to get to pool up in the gorge. It was well worth the effort but we had to come down again, which was not easy.
We made a stop at the Zebedee Hot Springs before having to go to the Kununurra Hospital with one of the girls who was ill. Spend morning relaxing outside hospital then made a mad dash to get to camp site in Bungle, Bungles before sunset. Very bumpy ride.
Camped in the Purnalnly National Park. Drove into Bungle, Bungles to explore. We stopped for a walk on the Picaninny trail in the famous Bee Hive range. The river is now only a pond because it is dry season. The creek is feed by the Ord River. Adrian told us about the Termite Mounds. We then walked onto Cathedral George. It was a magical site especially when Adrian played his âDidjeriduâ (correct spelling), and he is an excellent player. Here he told us a few stories about the Aboriginal Culture.
In the afternoon we explored the Echidna Chasm and saw the sunset at Wolanginjdi Lookout.
Mainly, driving today. First stop Turkey Creek Roadhouse. Saw bike riders on a race between Kanunurra â Perth, with film crew in tow. We made it to Kununurra then onto Lake Argyle. The Ord Dam is man made and completed in 1973. In rainy season it will be the fourth biggest inland sea in the world. We took a boat trip, and the boys ended up jumping into water from the rocks, (one nude). They forgot about 25,000 crocodiles that inhabit the waters.
Keep River was out first stop, we went on to Ginger Hill walk then the Gurrandalng walk. It has strong cultural significance to the Mirriwung and Gadgerong People.
We passed into the Northern Territory. Time went forward one and half hours. We drove onto the Katherine National Park and Victoria River Roadhouse, where it said it was under new âWifeâ. Camped at Flora River National Park for our last night under the stars.
Started last day together with a group swim at Katherine Hot Springs. We then hit the Stuart Highway. Stopped at Nitmiluk National Park for a swim at Edith Falls. Stopped at Pine Creek, a gold mining town and at the Adelaide River Inn where we saw the stuffed Buffalo and Crocodile used in the film âCrocodile Dundeeâ.
I was the first to be dropped off at Frog mellow Backpackers. I waved goodbye to the group, but we met up later for a very riotous farewell party. Walked back to hostel at 3am.
Spent day exploring Darwin City. Went to Quantas Office to extend my stay by one week.
Met an Aboriginal lady named Helen on Lameroo Beach who sat down with me for some time telling me her life story.
Walked to Doctors Gully. It is a cool, shady walk in wetland where there is some wildlife. It is named after Dr. Robert Peel (1839-1894) who found the water well.
Walked along Esplanade to Wickham Point, site of the Liquidified National Gas Plant then I met friends for lunch, and waved goodbye to others. Group is beginning to move on.
Went with friend âJockâ to the Casino in the evening.
Took a walk to Darwin Museum and Galley of Indigenous Art. It told the story of the Didjeridu, Sweetheart the 17â Crocodile who died in 1979. It had displays of dangerous and deadly beings that bit and sting. Geological and Natural History, and a section on Cyclone Tracy.
Went to Fog Dam to see the wildlife in the wetland area. It was originally meant to store water needed for rice growing but weather not suitable so it has been left to nature.
WE entered Purdinja National Park at Corraboree Roadhouse before heading for River Cruise at North Rockhole on the Sth Alligator River. WE saw many birds including the Aboriginal sacred bird which walked gracefully by on the river bank. Several Salty Crocodiles were in the water but could only see eyes and nose. In wet season the river would be extended by 35 km inland.
After lunch made way towards Ubirr and the Rock Art at Bowali Visitors Centre. Traveled onto Yellow Water for sunset and our camp.
I was awoken by a Screaming Lady Bird in early hours. Made our way to Jim, Jim Falls after breakfast. Falls had ceased to run but it was a good place to swim with the cliffs towering above. On walk back came across a long legged spider and a green tree snake.
We had lunch at Garramarr and found Green Antsâ Nests in the trees and Black Cockatoos before making way back to Darwin, crossing Sth Alligator River further up stream. Stopped at White Lily Billabong for a while where we found some ponies and some fellow travelers from my previous trip.
Took a slow walk to Darwin Harbor + Port Wharf Precinct to watch boats coming and going. Passed Government House, and stopped at Pearl Exhibition on the way.
First stop âThe Ban Yan Treeâ Roadhouse. A Ban Yan is a Fig Tree and it was very old. The surrounding land was a station but land handed back to Aboriginals and is now a settlement.
We made for the Termite Mounds. In Australia there are 350 different kinds of termites, 80 are in N.A.
We then visited and swam at several waterfalls. The Tolmer, Wangi, Florence Falls and Buley Rock holes.
Driver Clancy dropped me off with fellow traveler, Christine from Tasmania at Mindil Beach Evening Market, to stroll around stalls and listen to music.
Litchfield Park has had Aboriginal people living there for thousands of years.
Visited, Oil Storage Tunnels that run beneath the City. Men commenced digging out the tunnels in 1943 but they were not finished before end of WW11. Never used.
Walked back via Damoe-Ra-Park (a tribute to women of NT), and Deckchair Cinema.
Met up with Andrea and Birgit from trip between Perth and Broome who had just hit town.
Took a long walk to Cullen Bay at Top End, Myilly Point, visited Barnett House, and passed Skycity, Mindil Beach, Fannie Bay to East Point and Fannie Bay Goal. Goal established 1872-1979.
The Larrakia National own land in this area. The sea was turquoise in colour when I began my walk back to Darwin. Very hot day but unable to swim ion the sea because of the dangerous Box Jelly Fish which inhabit these waters.
Met friends at Museum and walked back with them via Botanic Gardens.
Found a large flock of bats at Doctorâs Gully. Stopped for the Fish Feeding at Aquascene. Visited Parliament House, Atkinson Art Galley, and old Palmerston Town Hall before the Shuttle Bus to Airport. Returned to Perth
I am now in Perth with my friends. It is Spring and the weather is changeable with some sunny days and some wet and overcast. I spend most of the time at home or shopping with Carole. Last weekend Dave took us to the Gingin Fete to meet up with friends. Gingin is a small town inland. Sunday, Carole and I did have a girlie morning at a Tupperware party, and then in the afternoon we all went to the first barbecue of the season with neighbours.
Took a drive to York in the Avon Valley (97km from Perth). It was the first inland European settlement in WA and the best preseved and restored inustralia. Far,ers settles there in the 1890`s and concentrated on sheep and wheat.
Had lunch at Yanchep N.P on Sunday, then walked around wetland taking photo`s of wild flowers before moning onto Yanchep Lagoon to sit on the beach.
Spent next 3 days around the house reading, sorting photo`s and writing up journal. Completed my first book of my trip.
Had a quick whizz around the sights of Perth city. Visited the Culture Centre, Town Hall, Surpreme Court Buildings, St. Andrew`s Chruch, St. George`s Cathedral, Old Deanery, Govenor`s House, Swan Bell Tower, Barrack Square on the Swan River, Convention & Exhibition Centre, The Cloisters, The Majesty`s Theatre and fashionable King Street Shops. Most of the buildings were built mid - late 1800`s, except the convention Building, which was opened in 2004.
Weather is very changeable now. Some days warm and sunny but others wet and overcast. I spend most of my time either in the garden or around the house reading or going shopping with Carole.
Dave and Carole attended a very Smart Works Dinner/Dance on Friday, and on Saturday we were all invited to dinner at a friend`s lovely old colonial house in Subiaco.
We drove via Swan Valley up into the Perth Hills to get to Mundaring Weir. At the Weir we found Lake C Y O`Connor and Helena River. It is surrounded by natural bushland, so we saw many beautiful wild flowers and some Kangaroos.
Here we also saw No.1 Pump Station and the longest freshwater pipeline in the world. On average, 90 million litres of water are pumped through each day. It started in 1903, and runs 560km.
On our journey back to Perth we came across "The Lavender Patch". A holding in the bush that has been planted with all kinds of Lavender for farming and resale. We stopped for coffee and cake. It was a truly lovely spot.
We finished our day at the Kings Park lights, which were multi-coloured on this day.
Australia has a Bank Holiday this weekend to celebrate the Queen`s Birthday. To celebrate on Friday we had drinks in the garden, Saturday our day out, on Sunday we met friends at the "Tradewinds Hotel" in Fremantle and on Monday in the garden with family.
"Happy Birthday your Majesty".
Carole was taken ill whilst we were having morning coffee in the garden. She suddenly lost partial sight in one eye, which was very frightening. Together, we went straight to the doctor. He sent her to hospital where it was found that she has a blood clot behind her eye and also has a heart defect. An operation is needed for her eye and tests for her heart.
The weather continues to be changeable. Carole has been given clean bill of health with regards to her heart, which is good news.On Thursday we took a slow walk to the Brittanic Golf for lunch where we met up with the daughter of the British Actor, David Cossoff. There may be some of you around that remember him. He was a little Jewish man who told the most beautiful childrens stories.Saturday we went to a fete at the lifestyle village in the morning, then to a barbeque withh neighbours in the evening where we watched England v Australia at Rugby. England won 12 - 10.Sunday was a walk in the Walyunga National Park where we took the path to Syd`s Rapids, then a drive along a rough road through the bush. The flowers were stunning.The rest of the time I have been doing a bit of study into the legends and cutlture of the Aborigines.
My trip to the mining district of Kalgoorlie hit a hitch when somebody was killed on the railway line. The train serv ice was suspended and there was no room on the replacement coach for me. The next train was not until 7.15am the next day. A bit early for me to travel from Carramar to East Perth in time, so I booked into a hotel in Perth City overnight.
The train "Prospector" was extremely comfortable and I had a smooth journey through the Avon Valley and Central Wheatbelt. the Spring flowers were beautiful in the Avon Valley, and I caught several sightings of the fresh water pipeline which I had seen at it`s source at Mundaring Weir. Then all I saw as I travelled closer to the mining area were field upon field of crops half grown, bush and white, yellow and red sand.
My friends Kerry and Bear met me at the station. I am staying with them, their 3 teenagers and dog, Bradley. They took me to an engagement Party.
We all went to Hammond Park for the Spring Festival. It was an attractive park with a Lake, Bird Averies, Emu`s wandering in an enclosure, and lots of entertainment stalls manned by various charities, including the flying doctors. It was a hot sunny day.
The children took me to the Kalgoorlie-Boulder Museum which told the story of the Goldfield Region. The Ivanhoe Headframe took us up 100 ft in a glass lift to the viewing platform for panoramic views of the area.
There were reconstructed buildings from the 1800`s of the Western Australian Bank, a Miners Cottage, Goldfields Supply Office, Police Station Wagan and the offices of the mining entrepreneur, Claude De Berhales. There was also a Dentists Room, Wedding Breakfast Room, Trade Union Room and heaps more info.
Bear, who works as an H & S Officer in the Mines, took me to view a small blasting from the Lookout Platform of the Super Pit. It is the largest open pit gold mine in the World. It is approximately , 3.5 km long, 1.5 km wide and 600 metres in depth.
The mining trucks of which there are a fleet of 34, and looked like toys from where I viewed them, move more than 85 million tonnes of ore, producing 800,000 ounces of gold each year from the Golen Mile. They are worth $4 million each, weigh 166 tonne, and have a 225 tonne payload and travel a maximum speed of 56 km/per hour.
The pit has 4 PC8000 face shovels, the largest piece of machinery on site, worth $13 million each and weigh 685 tonnes each. They are huge.
Since 1893 when Irishman Paddy Hannan first made his famous discoverey of gold, the Golden Mile has produced 50 million ounces of gold in the area.
Boulder was named after the famous Golden Mile Mine, the "Great Boulder", which was pegged in 1893. It was amalgamated with Kalgoorlie as the town grew.
I explored the town with my friends and found the Boulder Pharmacy, which has been in operation as a Pharmacy for over 100 years, and houses a comprehensive collection of items connected with Pharmacology.
The Goldfield War Museum has an impressive outdoor display of armoured vehicles.
In the Town Hall we found the beautifully preserved historic hall from 1908 with a Victorian threatre Curtain painted by Englishman, Philip Goatcher.
The Miners Monument depicting a minor using an air leg drill can be located on the main street.
Later after we left Boulder we made our way to Mt Charlotte Lookout, to view the Mine and the final stage of the Golden Pipeline Hertiage trail.
Bear drove me part of the way along the Discovery Trail through the WA Goldfields. It was a drive along the red dusty roads that run through the bush. We passed several signposts to small gold mining establishments.
We went along the trail as far as Siberia passing through the tiny mining settlements of Broad Arrow and Ora Banda.
Siberia was established in 1898, but all that remained of it was the graveyard and a few bricks where the town use to stand. It was to have become the Service Centre for a successful gold mining area. In 1914 it had 2 hotels and 2 shops, but the rush was a failure.
Our return journey found us calling into the Ora Banda Inn for a drink. It is a tin building that is today famous for its annual horse race on its primitive track. It is also known for a recent shooting and a feud between the owner, a retired policeman, and the local bikers, who tried to blow up the Inn in retaliation for the killing of their fellow biker friend. They did manage to blow the policeman up in his car later in Perth.
The Broad Arrow Tavern is also a tin building, opened in 1896 and covered from ceiling to floor with the signatures of all its customers.
I spent the whole day at the Australian Prospectors and Miners Hall of Fame Museum. I managed to get lost in the World of Mining. I learnt about the first gold rush in 1851, the diggers, the tent cities, claims, disputes, licences and the adventures of the early prospectors.
There were several galleries giving information from Tools of the Trade to the Developing New Technologies. There was also a gallery on Investment & Mining. The role of the Government, the Law, the Stock Exchange and lots more.
I took an Underground Tour into an old gold mine, watched liquid gold poured, panned for gold, visited the reconstructed old mining buildings and watched 2 films in the Theatrette "The Prospectors" and "Hoover`s Gold".
At the end of the day I was all Mined Out, and "No" I don`t think I will be applying for a job.
I went on "Walk About" in the Centre of Kalgoorlie on the City Trail Walk. I wanted to find out about the history of the town and view the beautiful old buildings dating from the 1890`s. There was so much to see it took me most of the day.
I also made a visit to the more modern Curtin University Campus where I found the Goldfields Arts Centre. The Art Gallery was closed but I amused myself by reading the essays written by the young children about their Grandparents for a competition entitled "Write on Time".
At the theatre children were researsing for their dance show "King of the Castle", and I discovered that big stars like the Bee Gee`s, Boney M, James Bundall and Leo Sayer had all performed at this venue.
In the evening I had the opportunity to meet some of the local Miners when I attended Bear`s Leaving Party. He is moving onto another mine.
I took a walk in the nearby Karlkurla Bush Park to take a look at the Native Flora and Fauna in this area.
Karlkurla (gull-gurl-la) is the Aboriginal name for Silky Pear Bush which is a vine that grows in low lying areas and is common to this park.
The Gold Detector is the name they give to the Blackett Tree because gold can often be found where this tree grows. It can also be found where white Quartz is in the earth or when the colour of the earth changes from green to yellow.
The tallest tree in the Goldfields if the Salmon Tree. The bark is salmon in colour and grows 25 mtr.
I discovered many bushes like Goldfield Pot Pourri, Medicine Bush, Oldman Saltbush, Little Sucker and others.
I appeared to have the park to myself for I met no one else whilst I walked. However, it was early afternoon and a hot sunny day.
Vistied the Boulder Markets which run every 3rd Sunday in the month. Small stalls selling arts and crafts line Burt Street and at the top of the road the Goldfields Brass Band played in the park, whilst the people sat eating their picnic lunches.
I couldn`t visit Kalgoorlie without visiting the famous Hay Street , where there use to be 18 Brothels but now only houses 3. All do tours of their premises. I chose to visit the first one in the street, "The Questra Casa".
It was a pink building made of tin with 10 starting stalls, where the girls sit behind glass doors during business hours (6pm-1am). If a man likes the look of the girl he will go into the starting stall to talk to her. Here, he is hidden from view, and if the girl feels comfortable with him, she will invite him in. One hour today costs $250, less time is pro rata. The girl keeps 60% of her takings.
The Madam, a widow from Queensland, bought the business 15 years ago with her husband`s Insurance money. she had no experience of the business but wanted to buy into something that would interest her and keep her busy. Her doctor suggested she find something to do, but I don`t really think he was meaning she should run a brothel. However, she found the business was up for sale and bought it.
She was a very pretty, well spoken lady in her 50`s with a family back home. I found her to be very pleasant, amusing and interesting. I learnt a lot about the history of the area from her.
What I haven`t told you, is that recently a lady who had come for a tour, drove her car start through the house. No one knows why? But the lady of the house says that she is no yet running a drive through business.
Also what I haven`t told you, is that I arrived early for the tour and foolishly waited outside the building. I could have earnt myself $1,000 if I had the time.
I went out to the Airport for a tour of the RFDS Service Station.
The service was the dream of Rev. John Flynn (1880 - 1051) who travelled the outback on horse back and camel. He was concerned by the tragedies which befell the isolated people through illness and accident, He suggested the use of an aeroplane to bring swift medical aid.
And to provide the essential communication link, he suggested radio and an inexpensive rugged reliable radio that bush dwellers could operate themselves.
The service became operational in May 1928, and the Goldfields Section in 1937. WA have 5 bases, Jandakot, Kalgoorlie, Meekatharra, Port Headland and Derby, and covers 2,525,500 square kilometres. They are funded by the State and Federal Government Grants but a large amount of the money needed to run the organisation has to come from donations. The Service is free to all Australian Citizens.
Today I have taken my last look at the town.
I visited the Arts Galley but it was closed to the public today. I also visited the WA School of Mining Museum, opened in 1903 , but that was closed to the public today. However, the Hird`s Photography Gallery was open. It was fantastic, the photographs the owner Graeme Hird had managed to capture were amazing.
He organises workshops to explain how the camera works and how to capture that extra special shot. Unfortunately, I am not going to be around long enough to take advantage of one of them. I am heading out of town tonight.
I have had an great time here in Kalgoorlie. I am told that most people usually just pass through the town, but it is well worth lingering for a week or two. The people are so welcoming and there is so much of interest to do here.
I boarded the Indian Pacific at Kalgoorlie on Wednesday at 11pm, it left the station at 1.40am Thursday morning. The tain was very comfortable. It had a lounge room, restaurant, smoking room, TV, Computer Games and helpful staff on call. But, never-the-less I didn`t sleep much.
I could only doz whilst I waited for the sunset, and I wasn`t disappointed. It was magnificent as it rose over the bush. The bush in this area is more barren, trees sparse and dry looking. Not like the lush, dense bush I had become accustomed in the North.
The Indian Pacific can be traced to the early 1900`s. It was to link the isolated Western Australia with the rest of the Eastern Colonies. It has 4,352km of track that passes through a diversity of Australian landscape. 1,996km of it through the Nullabor.
It runs from Perth to Sydney via Adelaide - 3 nights + 3 days. Runs twice a week in both directions. Length of journey - 65 hours / 4,352km. Apart from taking people, it also takes supplies to isolated stations on route. All railway stations are named after politicians.
Nullarbor means without trees. It was first discovered by the explorer John Forrest, is flat even limestone. The soil being made up of tiny shell left by the sea, and nothing growns on it except some bits of scrub. There is no fresh drinking water. There is water deep underground but it to salty to be used. All water and supplies have to be carried in. the temperature ranges from freezing to 50 degrees.
The railway across the Nullarbor was built under the instruction of Engineer, Henry Dean, it took 5 years to build and is the longest straight uninterrupped track in the world. They say train is the only way to see the real Nullarbor.
We stopped for a break at the ghost town of Cook, where we were allowed to get out to explore for an hour. We travelled on.
At Oolden (Aboriginal for water) the scenery changed drasticly, lush green trees appeared and red sand. there was water. At Barton was Ziggy`s Palace, an 80-year-old Polish Railway Worker built his house from recycled material. It needs to be seen!
We arrived in Adelaide 7.20am Friday.
I have arrived in Adelaide after a long tiring trip. I took a walk around the City to briefly see the sights. I visited the City Markets, which is a large undercover market selling food, too but lunch then made my way to the Botanic Gardens.
Adelaide is a busy town, lots of people with things to do, places to go. Not what I have been accustomed, lately. I wanted to seek the tranquility of the gardens. And it was quiet and peaceful. The only thing that disturbed the serenity was the whirl of the air ambulance helicopter blades as it landed on the roof of the hosital with a patient. The Royal Adelaide Hospital is located next door.
I spent the rest of the day in the gardens. It had an indoor tropical rainforest, an enchanting Australian forest and a stunning heitage Palm House displaying plants from Madagascar. I found the Design of Desert Plants from Afria and America most facinating. They still manage to survive despite to much sun and to little water.
The SA Museum is large with many exhibits. I spent two and half hours wandering around it.
The exhibits that most took my interest was the special exhibition showing just now on Butterflies. It is designed to encourge people to plant butterfly host plants (for the catepillars) and nector plants (for the adults) in their gardens. The aim is to increase the population of native butterflies in metropolitan areas.
The Pacific Cultures Gallery was featuring the findings of three women, Elizabeth Kramer-Bannow (Explorer), Beatrice Blackwood (Anthropologist) and Sheila Draper (Bapitist Missionary). All did pioneering work in New Guinea in the 1930`s.
Here, I also watched a film about the Kontu people from Northern New Guinea who believe they are related in spirit to the shark. They hunt and kill sharks by hand, with a strong rope, a propeller shaped piece of wood and a club. Brave men!
The Gallery entitled "Footsteps of Sir Douglas Mawson told of the research of the Australian Explorer, who made several trips to the Antarctic.
And I viewed the second largest gold nugget, the Normandy, weighing 819 ounces, and found in 1995 by a prospector in Kalgoorlie.
Later, I visited the Migration Museum where it was possible to relive the courage, heartbreak, survival and success of the many people who made the long, dangerous journey across the seas to Australia. Icebergs, storms, reefs and disease were the perils that some ships did not survive. Most, however, did arrive safely.
On my way back to my hostel I stopped off at the "Panasonic Solar World Challenge". The winner of the race was just receiving his prize as I arrived in the Square. The race is for Solar Cars. Something for the future after a day looking at the past.
The bad storm during the night had cooled down the temperature considerably. It is a bit chilly. bustery and showery.
I decided to take a self-guided tour of the City, starting at the Sunday Arts and Crafts Market in the Festival Centre.
Next stop Adelaide Railway Station where they already put up their Christmas Decorations. Here, I found boards which gave a tour through the history of the SA Public Transport System between 1850-2000.
Walking on I passed Holy Trinity church, the oldest church in the state. West`s Coffee Palace, Tattersall`s Hotel, established 1882), on through the West End to Edmund Wrights House in King william Street ,which was opened in 1878 and designed for the Bank of SA. Craftsmen and sculpters from Scotland and London carved the eleborate ornamental work.
At Beehive Corner I turned into the shopping area of Rundel Street. I found the Rundell Mall Pigs, Fountain and Adelaide Arcade built 1885. Further down the road were more Colonial style buildings and another Sunday Market selling arts and crafts with music playing.
In Pultney Street was the oldest apartment block, built 1911 and the Scots Church built 1850.
I stopped for lunch in the Botanic Park and watched people playing French Bowls. It started to rain heaily so rushed into the Indoor Rainforest at the Botanic Gardens, where I stayed for sometime until the rain stopped.
The Bicentennial Conservatory, opened in 1989 and displays plants from Papua New Guinea, Indonesia and the Pacific Islands. Two birds species have been introduced in it. The White-Browed Swallow and Noisy Pitta.
Eventually, I was able to continue my journey along the North Terrace passing Ayers House, University of SA, Adelaide College, and Art Gallery of SA. I popped into the state Library to view the exhibitions in the Mortlock Wing. I walked on by the War Memorial but 1931, Government House, and Parliment House onto the Convention Building and the River Torrens riverwalk, opposite the Adelaide Oval. Here, I finished my exploring for the day. It had taken me the whole day and I was exhausted. I walked back to my hostel.
Another cold blustery day, so I visited the Art Gallery of SA for a guided tour with Ann, the art expert. The tour took an hour but I stayed for two and half hours.
With Ann, we first looked at the difference between the English and Italian style of Portrait Painting in the Renoussance Period of 16 - 17 Century, and looked at pictures by Cornelis Ketel and Gaetaio.
We viewed painiting by Australian Artists, particularly the much loved Tom Roberts and his painting entitled "A Breakaway". And Sidney Nolan`s paintings of the 1940`s, of his friends that depicted his psychological views of them.
In the Atrium was Contemporary Aboriginal Dot Art from 1997. Scrattered around were also 30 statues by Auguste Rubin, donated to the Gallery.
There was art from East Asia, particularly a standing Budda from Thailand, made of wood, lacquer and gold with extremely intricate carving on its skirt, and there was pottery from Iran.
Finally, a room dedicated to the wonderful Wm Morris. Poet, socialist, theorist, designer and craftsman. He was very popular in Adelaide. A tapestry from his factory made of wool and silk hung there. Designed in 1887 and made 1900 - 1902 entitled "The Adoration of Magi". An exquisit piece of art.
After taking my packed lunch to the Botanic Gardens, I spent time visiting the Museum of Economic Botany. They had the largest collection of Seeds I have ever seen, and information on what we produce from then.
My day ended with a visit to the Adelaide Oval. The men back home, I thought, would never forgive me if I didn`t make a visit to the famous Cricket Ground. And their was a match taking place.
I took the bus to Port Adelaide where I went on a self-guided Heritage Walking Tour. It took approximately 2 hours.
Port Adelaide is a sea port ,which was offically established in 1848, only four years after the foundation of the State. It played an integral role in the Colonial developement of the Colony. It has also played host to sailing ships, steamships and sophisticated container and cruise ships.
There are several old colonial buildings within the boundaries of Nelson Street, St. Vincent Street, Todd Street and McLaren Parade. Hotels, Taverns, Banks, Churches, Merchants Buildings, a Courthouse, Town Hall, Museums and a Lighthouse. All dating from mid 1800`s to mid 1900`s.
The Lighthouse (1869) was erected at the entrance to the Port River, it was re-erected on South Neptune Island in 1901. It was then dismounted in 1985 and placed on its present site in 1986. It can be climbed and inspected. I, however, chose to sit beside the Port Adelaide River enjoying the sunshine.
When I got back to the City ,I did decided to take advantage of the fine weather with a walk along the River Torrens. Walking for about an hour on one side then back again on the other. It was very busy with people running, and walking. People cycling, lots of young people rowing on the river, and I was even almost run down by a motorised invalids chair.
It has been raining all day, so I took the bus into the lovely Adelaide Hills to the German Village of Hahndorf. The journey was picturesque once out of the City.
Hahndorf was established over a hundred years ago. In 1835, Captain Dirk Hahn, for whom the village was named, brought 187 German immigrants to SA on the ship Zebra. Much of the culture and traditions of their homeland has been recreated in the relatively isolated village.
It has several little shops and taverns selling German food, drink and wood crafts. It also has a Museum and Art Galley. The Museum shows German historic relics, namely a large collection of pipes, and wooden crafts.
The Art Galley was showing paintings by local artists. There was a section given over to the captivating and inspired Australian Lanscape Painter, Han Heysen (1877 - 1968). His favourite spot to paint was between Hahndorf and Mt. Barker. His painting entitled "Gums in Mist" (1020) hangs in the Art Gallery of SA.
The rain found me back on the bus to the City after only 2 hours, to get on another bus out of the City again. This time to explore Glenelg and the Bay. Although, it was still raining I did walk the length of the Jetty and back. But, then I sort the sanctury of the Bay Discovery Centre.
Here, I found a Museum that told the story of life by the sea, and I watched an archived film about the beach since the 1800`s. It appreared that they had more people visiting then, than they did today. Then, the Jetty managed to draw a huge crowed, but today there was only myself and one other.
I took the tram back to the City.
I took a day excursion to Victor Harbor. It is 84 km South of Adelaide. There were dark cloudes as I left the Bus Station at Adelaide, which soon turned to heavy rain. The journey was relaxing but visability was poor. We went through the wine growing region of McLaren Vale and Fleurieu Peninsula.
I noted that roses, which were in full bloom, grow as well as the vines in this area. The vines were beginning to throw out their shoots and looked very green. It was a real shame that the sun didn`t shine.
Cattle, sheep and animals that looked like a sheep with a long neck (don`t know the name) grazzed in the fields and on the mountainside.
Victor Harbor is situated in Encounter Bay. It is popular with tourists. Not many today, however. The Museum, Art Gallery and Whale Centre were all closed. Even the beautiful horses that pull the old trams across the Causeway refused to come out.
I did walk the Causeway to Granite Island, where I took the Loop Kaiki Walk. It took me around the Island and took about 45 minutes. It has impressive views across Encounter Day to the seaside town fringed by gigantic Norfolk Island Pines.
The Island is made of Granite and was once a Botanic Garden. Today, it is a haven for wildlife. It has its own colony of Little Penguins but even they were not at home.
Whales migrate to the warmer waters of the Bay in Winter and Spring to breed and care for their young.
The journey back to the City was better because the rain had lifted and I had good views of the specacular countryside.
Someone told me that Adelaide was a City of Churches, so I decided to check it out. Most people go train spotting, not this lady. What is there better to do on a dreary wet day? I managed to find 12 of the 24 registered churches in the city, and several that are not registered. Ones that are now restaurants, offices, clinics etc.
I lite a candle for Nana Rose at the beautiful Roman Catholic Cathedral of Saint Francis Xavier.
I awoke in the early hours of the morning to find raindrops falling on my head. There awas a really bad rain storm with which, the tin roof was unable to cope. I moved to another bed and the roof mender was called.
When day time came I decided I would explore North Adelaide despite the rain. I started by walking across Adelaide Bridge where I found a huge statue of Sir Ross Smith, born in nearby Semaphore, and who made the first successful flight by aeroplane between England and Australian in 1919.
I walked on passed the Adelaide Oval, Next Generation Tennis Club, down Memorial Drive onto the Golf Course and crossed over the River Torrens at the Slice Gates of the Weir. I made my way along the river walk to the Old Adelaide Goal, to find that it was only open at night on a Saturday for Ghost Tours.
I walked back to the river going through the Childrens Magic Forest . Here I found a splendid Totem Pole presented by the people of British Columbia, Canada.
At the river I found another little bridge where I crossed from the Karrawirra Parri to the Tulya Woodi (from one park to another), on to the north side of the river.
I came away from the park and got hopelessly lost in the suburbs of North Adelaide. I did find many beautiful Colonial buildings in the area, and eventually I did find my way back to my hostle.
I took a tour with a small group of 6 people to the Barossa Valley, where Australia`s richest and best known wine making region is located.
The trip travelled north from the City and provided a full experience from vine to wine. The first stop being at the Whispering Wall at the Barossa Dam. It is an acoustic circular wall built in 1899. It carries a whispered conversation 150 metres.
The valley has 63 wineries, mainly red wine is produced. Vines are either grown as bush vines or as trellis vines. Trellis is easier to pick. We were to visit 3 wineries during the day.
The first wine stop was at the Chateaux at Yalara. Here we were taken on a tour of the winery before sampling a wide range of reds, whites and fortified wines. My favourite was the "Tawny Port, Personal Reserve".
Herman Thumm who first started this winery is now 96 years old. He has sold the business to the McGuigan Group but deals in antiques instead.
Jacob`s Creek is the largest grower in the area now, and we passed over the original creek. It was very unimpressive.
We stopped next at Grant Burges Cellar Door to sample their crop. They produce a very fine white port but it takes 12 years to mature and to costly to produce anymore. This will be the last year. It is a 5th generation family winery.
Next was the Mengler`s Hill and a photo stop for panoramic views of the valley. Then, it was off to the Angas Park to purchase glace fruit, confectionery, nuts and chocolate products and the best of South Australian Dried Fruit.
The last stop of the day was at the Langmeil Wines where we were taken for a walk through some of the oldest vines in the region. Langmeil means "Mile out of Town". Christian Auwright came from Prussia in 1839. He was a blacksmith and came to Australia seeking freedom to worship. He settled at Landmeil, brought up his family and planted vines that still grow and produce grapes for wine today. His blacksmith`s shed is also still there.
There are many beautiful Lutheran Chruches in the Area.
I did manage to return sober.
At last the sun . I intended having a day at Henley Beach but missed the bus and ended up going back to Glenelg instead.
I spent an enjoyable afternoon on the beatiful beach at Holdfast Bay, walking between Glenelg Jetty to Brighton Jetty and back (8 km). tThere was not to many people around and I felt at peace with the world as I walked beside the Torquoise coloured sea on the soft golden sand.
New friends Margaret and Neil welcomed me into their home and took me with their friends to a Melbourne Cup Lunch in McLaren Vale. We watched the race on the TV with the rest of Australia. It is a very popular event. The ladies dress up in their best frocks and hats. It was a lovely end to my stay in Adelaide.
I am sorry to say goodbye to Adelaide, and the boys and one lady who live at Sunny`s Backpackers. They made me feel like one of the family, and I will miss Chris`s banter, insults and teasing. I love you dearly, Chris but I still maintain there is no such thing as "Women`s Work".
Started my 8-day trip to Alice Springs with Wayward Bus, an Adventure Tours Trip, and Mark who has worked as a Guide for 15 years. He is very knowledgeable, good fun and looks like a big cuddly bear.
From Adelaide we made our way north weaving through the hillside farms and vineyards plus a string of quaint towns. In the Clare Valley we stopped at the Knappstein Wine Cellar Door, where some of our group of 16 stopped for Wine Tasting.
We travelled deep into the Flinders Rangers passing several ghost towns. The oldest town in the Flinders is Melrose. We stopped at Quorn, which during the WW11 was a thriving town because of the American Army were stationed there. It had 4 hotels and a railway station. When the Ghan line was changed in the 1970`s the town began to reduce from 5,000 to 1,000. The last train ran through in 1980.
We stopped at another Ghost town called Kanyaka Station which was wipped out with the drought of 1860. At the time it was a very successful business with approx. 60,000 sheep. The farmer tried to move his sheep to NE Adelaide where there was water. He set out with 40,000 sheep but only arrived with 10,000.
At the town of Hawker we saw a Seismometer in operation. It was looking for any movement of the earth.
We drove onto Wilpena Pound, one of Australia`s most outstanding natural features and our campsite for the night. We slept in swags.
We went on a challenging climb up Mt Ohlssen Bagge. It took about 3 hours but the views were breathtaking.
After lunch we hit the dirt roads that took us through the heart of the Rangers, through the Bunyoroo Gorge and Brachlina Gorge, along the Geological Trail to the historic Copper mine of Blinman. In Blinman only 15 people live. We stopped for a break.
We made tracks for our overnight bunkhouse style accommodation at Angorichina.
Started the day with a bike ride through the Parachilna Gorge. It was a bit hard going and I fell off twice but it was fun.
We broke out of the Rangers following the railway to the Leigh Coal Mine. Here, we stopped to view the mIne. Mining started in a big way in 1943. Production until 2001 was approximately 80 million tonnes mined and used at Port Augusta Power Station. A further 60 million tonnes will be extracted by 2025.
We visited eccentric Talc Alf, who lives where the bitument ends at Lynhurst, but he was not at home.
The Oodnadatta Track follows the dusty trail of the Camel Caravans, the overland telegraph and the Ghan railway. It was flat, no trees, only a few bits of scrub in places, and whirl winds shifting the dust around.
We visited an oca pit, the oasis town of Maree where we stopped for lunch. Then we continued along the Arid Desert to Lake Eyre and the facinating thermal mound springs.
We camped in swags at William Creek. Here I had the misfortune to damage my carf muscle walking on the soft sand. It sounds unbelievable but sadly is very painful. I just hope it will recover before I get to Uluru.
I woke to a beautiful sunrise but my leg is still very painful. I can hardly bear to put my foot to the ground. Fortunately, today there is not much walking.
Desert landscapes including red dunes, salt pans and gibber plains on the morning drive to Coober Pedy. We visited Lake Cadibarrawirracanna Salt Lake on the way. Mostly lots of nothing through the Simpson Desert, then the Dog Fence.
We hit Coober Pedy just before lunch. It is the Opal Mining area. All the mines are individually owned, no big organisations. It has approximately 4,000 people, half who live in underground houses dug into the side of the hillside.
We were given a tour of the town, and an underground mine, house and church. At the Omoona Museum we were shown a film about Opal Mining. We did go digging for opals, one girl found one worth about 200 Australian Dollars. I did find one, but so minute it was only worth about a dollar, if that.
Before dinner we were taken on an extra tour of the breathtaking Breakaways. It has to be seen for the scenery to be appreciated. I can find no words to adequately describe it, or a picture can do it justice. As Mark, the guide, said "It`s God Showing Off".
We set out from Coober Pedy at 7pm for the long drive to the Northern Territory and Uluru. It was 700 km of the black bitumen on the Stuart and Lasseter Highways via Marla. As we passed over the border of South Australia and Northern Territory we came across a small cattle drive. They use motor bikes to herd the cattle these days.
We came also came across a Roadtrain with a flat tyre. We stopped at Elunda and Ebeneezer Roadhouses, also stopped for pictures of Mt. Connor. As we travelled further North, the NorthernTerritory looked like a botanic garden compared to the Outback of South Australia.
When we arrived at Uluru (Ayres Rock), in the late afternoon we visited the Uluru Cultural Centre. The land had been handed back to the Aboriginals in 1985 and they now manage it. The Centre tells the story of Tjukurpa - the Aboriginals basis for life, the foundation of their culture.
We watched the sun go down over the Rock with drinks. It was a very happy time.
Day 6 of our trip and we had to get up at 4am in order to be ready for sunrise over the Rock. There were many people wanting to get that special picture.
Mark, our Guide, took us for a short tour around part of the rock in order to explain to us about the Aboriginal culture in this area. Showing us the cave which was used to teach the children (the schoolroom). The caves for learning, for young men and the cave for the young women to learn about life. These areas are kept separate. The cave for the children to play (the nursery), and the cave for the old people to live out their life quietly. He also told us about the way the Aboriginals live with nature.
The most valuable commodity in this area is "Water".
After his tour he left the group to make their own way around the base walk. 9.4km 3-4 hours. The climb was closed down because of windy conditions which solved any dilemma about if to climb the rock or not. My leg was still very painful so I don`t think I would have made it, anyway.
Later we relaxed at Ayres Rock Resort with a swim, then later watched the sun go down at a different place. It was here that we 4 single ladies met a very cheeky Italian man. We had a bit of fun with him before returning with the group to our camp.
Another early morning to go to the local lookout to watch the sunrise over Kata Tjuta this time. Mark had cooked our breakfast by the time we returned.
We took a 3 hour walk in the Valley of Winds, where we were shown the vegetation and told about the area.
After lunch we were given free time to explore the Resort were we found an excellent Museum full of information about the area.
Kata Tjuta is made up of 36 domes, is 546 mtr high and 355 sq km wide. The Red Centre or Dead Heart of Australia. It is 1270 km from Adelaide and 1420 km from Darwin. The Desert has 416 different species of Nature Plants, 87 different Spiders, 76 different Ants etc. etc. I won`t bore you anymore.
Later we set off for the long drive to the Kings Canyon area, along the Stuart Highway, passed Mt Connor, and Kings Creek. Here it rained a little but it was only a shower. We saw wild camels and dingos.
As we approached George Kiln Rangers their was more vegetation and quite an lot of water around. There had been rain recently, which means mozzies.
Arrived at Kings Canyon Resort before dark but the power went down just after dinner, Had to wash up in the dark. We slept in tents this time.
Last day of our trip, and for our last walk we went to the Watarrka National Park - Luritja people. We took the Rim Walk at Kings Canyon (4 hours). We saw the sandstone domes of the Lost City, Garden of Eden Pool and took in the views along the walls of the Canyon. Mark told us more stories about the Aboriginals and the local plants.
After lunch we took our last drive to Alice Springs, passing the McDonnell Rangers along the route. We didn`t reach Alice until 8pm.
Alice is a larger town than I had imagined, It has a population of 30,000 people, 5,000 of whom are Amerian Soldiers (I didn`t see any Americans myself). It has a large population of Aboriginals and apparently not safe to walk alone in the street after 9pm. It is famous for it`s Henley on Tyne canoe race. The competitiors have to carry their canoes because no water.
We had a great "End of Tour" Party. I got a wee bit merry. I even won one of the party games with the help of my fellow group members. We had in our group 8 days learnt to work as a team. Out of all the Adventure Tour Groups present Fay (my young tour friend) and I were the two ladies left in the competition, so it didn`t really matter which one of us won. However, on the last game I had to acquire a bra from one of our girls, which Chris(a young Canadian girl) suppied after removing it at a very fast pass. Then to win I had to put it back on her her. I had obviously had more practise than my younger travelling companions, and won the game, and two quite useless prizes which I subsequently gave away.
I said goodbye to my travelling companions last night. Most of them were heading out of Alice Springs early this morning. Today, I had a date with the washing machine (that red dust gets everywhere). I also caught up with some sleep (I drank to much vodka last night), and then I took a walk into town to explore.
The town was very much geared up for the tourist with lots of tourist shops, cafes, Aborginal culture outlet organisations, travel agents selling day trips and longer tours around the surrounding area.
As I was a bit hung over, I soon wandered back to my very busy hostel and chatted to my new found Irish friend with whom I was sharing. She had been hanging around for a week waiting for a tour so she was glad of some conversation.
Had another lazy day. I took another walk into town (approx. 20 minutes).
Found lots of Aboriginals sitting around under the trees. There is not much else for them to do. The government just give them money to support themselves and don`t seem to train them or provide jobs to keep them occupied. I understand that the children here don`t even have to go to school. In my opinion that is not the way to encourage them to take an interest in life or help them gain back their self respect. I think they need to feel valued but it is a issue I don`t intend to get into here. It has got me into to many arguements already.
There is a few Aboriginal Art Centres, Cultural Centres, Walks in the Rangers, a Historical Station a bit out of town, a Flying Doctor Centre and lots of other things to do. I am sure I could have found lots to do if I tried but I didn`t. I just enjoyed hanging around town not having anything particular to do.
I did, however, climb up the Anzak Hill to view the sunset over Alice Springs.
I managed to get an early plane back to Perth. I would have been just a happy hanging around Alice but I felt I had to get back or I would be in danger of wasting my time in the outback towns. I seem to feel much more comfortable in the outback towns than in the big towns to be honest. I`m a real country girl at heart.
My friend Carole and her husband are away on holiday in the South of WA at the moment, so I booked into a hostel in the City.
Spent the afternoon going around the cultural centre. First I visited the Art Gallery. Here, I found an exhibition of the designer Yohji Yamamoto`s garments. It was the first sole exhibition in Australia of women`s clothing by this Japanese Couturier. It traced the changing aesthetic interests and themes of his work over a 21 year period.
I then went to look at works of art in the Indigenous Cultural Section, the Western Australian Exhibition of work between 1820-1960. Pictures of George Pitt Morison, Daisy Rossi, Fred Flood and lots of other WA artists. In the State collection I found a magnificent painting by Hans Heysen`s "Droving into the Light" which he painted in 1921 at Mt Barker, South Australia. It really stood out. I was even more thrilled because I had visited the area in which he lived and worked.
After that I went to the State Library, and the WA Museum, by which time I was exhausted.
I took the train to Femantle to visit Fremantle Prison and took a tour called "Doing Time".
The first convicts arrived in 1850 as a labour force to help construct the infrastructure for the Swan Colony. One of the first projects was to construct the Convict Establishment - later to become Fremantle Prison. It was the largest convict built structure in WA.
In 1894 prisoners completed construction of the 1km ladyrinth of tunnels which sustained thousand`s of people in the area in the late 1800`s.
Fremantle Prison was decommissioned as a maximum security prison in 1991. It was used continuously as a place of incarceration and punishment for almost 140 years.
We were shown around and told stories about the prison and prisoners. The cells were 4` x 7` each with a bucket as a toilet. Men as young as 12 years old were kept in the prison. There was also a women`s wing.
During the years there had been appromixmately 100 escapes from the prison but only 7 were never recaptured.
We were shown the condemned cell where the prisoner would spend his last 2 hours before death. When he left that cell he had only 50 seconds to live. The time it took to walk to the hangman`s noose. We were shown the execution site. 44 men and 1 woman were hanged in Fremantle Prison. The last hanging was in 1964.
After the visit to the prison I found I was just in time for the Fremantle Festival Parade. It was very colourful and jolly. I then made my way to the "Little Creature" Brewery where it was even more jolly.
The Perth Mint is the leading precious mentals house, as well as being the nation`s oldest operating mint and its specialist precious metal mint. It opened in June 1899 as a branch of Britain`s Royal Mint to refine gold being produced by the rushes to WA`s eastern goldfields and to turn it into British sovreigns and half-sovereigns. It continued under British control until 1970.
It is Australia`s biggest gold refiner, refining around 60% of the country`s yearly gold production as well as undertaking gold refining consultancy overseas; manufactures and markets a wide range of gold, and silver jewellery, manufactures coinage and medallions for Australia and other nations.
The tour took us around the Mint. There was a reproduction of a Prospector`s Camp. We were told stories and shown copies of the largest gold nuggets found in WA. The nugget called "The Hand of Gold" was used as a family doorstop until a Casino in Vagas bought it for millions of dollars.
We were taken to the Melting House to see gold poured using graphite crucibles melting pots. A specimen of 400oz gold bar worth $200,000 was on display to touch. We saw the coin department, coin displays, it was possible to mint ones own medallion, and find out how much one was worth in gold. I was worth $1882,965. I am not sure if that was good or not. Probably means I have gained weight?????
I took a trip to Rottnest Island on the 8.45am Cruise leaving Perth. It took longer to get there than I imagined because it stopped twice to pick up passengers. The open sea was a little bit choppy.
When I arrived at Thomson Bay Jetty I found crowds of people because a couple of other boats had also arrived at the same time. I decided to purchase a "Bay Seekers" bus ticket to get out of the crush. It was a "Hop on, Hop off" bus. It goes all the way around the island.
Most people hire bikes to explore the island but I am still suffering a great deal of discomfort from my poorly leg and so thought it unwise.
I passed several very inviting bays but chose to hop off at Roland Smith Memorial (the name attracted my attention). I discovered that Roly (1892-1972) had served on the Rottnest Board of Control for 20 years between 1864 - 1903. He had control of 3,000 Aboriginal Prisoners at the infamous Quod. He must have been well liked because the monument was large.
I walked a bit around Rocky Bay, Narrow Neck and Strickland Bay areas (all close together and quiet). I soon came across a local girl struggling with what looked to me like a crate. In her crate she had captured 4 lobsters and a small shark. She throw the 3 female lobsters back into the sea, but kept the male for dinner. The bewildered shark frightened her, especially when he refused to leave the crate. Eventually, we did see him swim away out to sea.
Later, to my horror, when I returned after my walk, I saw from the cliffs, the same girl in the sea screaming. She looked as if she was having difficulties getting back to shore. Whilst calling the Coastguards for help, I fortunately saw her manage to scramble onto the cliffs and out of the water. We returned to town on the bus together.
At the Settlement I came across Beth, a Historian who offered to give me a tour of the settlement. She walked me around telling me stories about the history of the Rottnest Settlement.
I found that it had a dark history. In 1838 it became a prison for Aboriginals. They had been kept at Fremantle but they were unhappy in the cells, so they were transfered to Rottnest which it was thought would be a Prison in itself. Some did escape but not many. It served as a Prison between 1838-1931. It was called "The Quod" a stang word for Prison.
I saw several Quokkas who appeared to be very friendly.
During my travels in Australia I have heard on several occasions about the Stolen Generation. I had read in the papers recently that the children involved were looking for an apology from the Australian Government. This sent me off to the WA Museum to find out more about it.
My understanding of it is that until approx. 1970, Aboriginal children of mixed descentant were symatically removed from their families to be brought up as whites. Sent away from their families to be brought up in White Institutes.
It was the duty of the state to make sure they were given a chance to lead a better life and the best way to do this was to separate half-cast children from their Aboriginal mothers. No matter how frantic their mother`s grief may be at the time, they would soon forget. But, of course, they didn`t and it caused the parents and child a great deal of heartache.
The children were sent away from home and denied all contact with their parents. The parents didn`t even know where their children had been taken. The aim was to assimilate children into White Society, destroy family links and evadicate all acknowledge of Aboriginal Society and culture.
Some believed it to be Genocide. A difficult issue and not one I would want to tackle. Being a Counsellor I know the emotional issues involved. Anyhow, it looks like they do require an apology and the Government are planning to give them one.
I picked up a Western Xposure Tourist Bus travelling down to South WA. It turned out to be a "Girl Only" Bus. Five female passengers and 3 female guides, 2 of whom were training.
We left Perth via the Narrow Bridge, Mandurah, Damesdille and Yalgroup N.P. We stopped at the "Centre of the Universe" Roadhouse before moving on to the town of Banbury (population approx 50,000).
We made a stop at Banbury`s Koombana Bay to see the Dophin Discovery Centre. Unfortunately, they were not at home that day, but I did see little tutles in the Centre. There are 6-8 species of turtles in Australia, all are endangered.
We travelled through the Ludlow Tuast (Gum) Tree Forest. Logging was very important in this area. The famous Bussleton Jetty was built 1841 mtr long in order to accommodate the big ships that came to collect the logs. Made of wood in stages between 1864 - 1962.
It ceased to be operational in 1972. It now has an underwater observatory built. There were good views of the Geographe Bay.
After lunch we visited the fantastic Ngilgi underground cave, where I chose to take the dark tunnel down to the bottom (it was the hard way). They were magnificent caves and really quite exciting to explore.
We then went into Margaret River and get wine tasting at the Vasse Felix Winery, chocolate teasting, cheese tasting and went to the Candy Cow-lolly shop for fudge tasting. We did have some time in the town to go exploring before making our way to Prevelly Beach to watch the surfers. Then we moved onto the Leeuwin Lighthouse in Augusta where the Indian Ocean and South Ocean meet.
We stopped over night at a hostel in Augusta.
Started day by driving the Pemberton and the Karrie Tree Forest. The karri trees are the third tallest tree in the world.
We went into the Warren NP to climb the Bicentennial Tree, approximately 75 mtr tall. It was straight up. I did manage to climb to the top but boy was I scared. There were just metal bars stuck into the side of the tree with rather a large gap in between each bar. My legs were like jelly when I eventually got back to the ground. It would never have been allowed in the UK for H & S reasons.
We moved onto another forest. The Valley of Giants and the tree top walk amongst the Tingle Trees, 40 mtr above the forest floor. Then after we walked above we walked under the canopy of ancient trees on the Ancient Empire Walk. These trees were 200 years old.
In 1999, 42 Woylie were released into the forest. They are nocturnal mammals that resemble tiny kangaroo.
Next was a stop at the Bead shop, lunch on the bus and Bathomew Honey and Mead tasting. Freetime on the Williams Beach where we climed the elephant rocks. Later a drive to Denmark, then the Gap and Nature Bridge where the landscape is called the "Edge of Antarctica".
The two continents were once joined together, forming the ruggid coastline for more than one billion years, forming the super-continent called Gondwana.
We drove into Albany where we were to stop overnight. We went to the top of Mt Clarence for spectacular views of George Sound.
Day 3 of our trip. We left for Two People Bay at 6am and walked the Heritage Trail. Then we went to Porongurup National Park to climb the Castle Rock. It took about 2 hours. When we got down again we visited the Mt Trio Vine Yard to sample more wine before moving off.
We made our way through the Stirling Range where we encountered runners on a Charity Run.
After lunch we drove on passed Bluff Knoll into farming land. It seemed much hotter, We stopped to refuel at the only Nudist Roadhouse in Australia. From here we had a long 5 hourt drive to get to Esperance.
We stayed at the YHA. After dinner we had a night out on the town. It was Saturday night and most people were out for a bit of fun. I did, however, leave at a respectable hour with 2 other girls, leaving the others to follow on at 2pm.
had a leisurely breakfast of egg and bacon, some of the girls were a bit delicate. An elderly German lady joined us for the day. We left the hostel about 8.30am and it was already very hot.
We went to Lucky Bay- Austrlaia`s No.1 favourite beach for a swim. Then to Hellfire Bay - Austrlia`s No. 2 favourite bay for another swim and lunch. The bay is names after St. Almo`s fire, a bluish flame like electrical discharge that sometimes occured above ship`s masts. I went alone for a walk around the bay after lunch whilst the others swam.
We drove inland to Hellfire Gallery for coffee. The owner said the temperature there was 44 degrees. Hot !! Then we drove around the bay to see some of the beaches.
At the Esperance Tanker Jetty ,built in 1934, we saw "Sammy" the sealion and his girlfriend. Esperance is known as Kalgoorlie`s Beach.
We also visited two lookouts. Esperance lookout and Two French Ship Lookout where we climbed the rocks from one bay to the other,
We left early and headed west through the wheat and sheep farming region of the Great Southern, on the way to Hyden and the Wave rock. When we arrived at Wave Rock we took the Hippo`s Yawn and climbed the rock to enjoy the view.
Wave Rock is a granite rock with a huge wave that stretches 100 mtr with a crest of 15 mtr. It is an icon of the wheatbelt.
After lunch we made our way to the Mulka`s Cave to see some Aboriginal Art work.
We drove on through Kondinin and stopped at Corrigin, 235km SE of Perth. We took a look at the Dog Cemetery, established in 1974. It is a tribute to Man`s Best Friend. With over 80 loved ones buried. It is unique to the area.
The "Dog in a Ute" event which involves the coming together of two great rural Aussie Icons - the `Ute" and man`s best friend in an attempt to break a World Record of a continuous queue of Dogs and Utes. The record is held by Corrigin in 2002.
Here we made our way to the Rabbit Fence which runs from Port Headland to Perth to Esperance. Built in stages between 1901 - 1907. Cost $675,882.
In 1859 a Victorian farmer ,Thomas Austin, imported and released 24 rabbits from England onto his land to breed for hunting. They did breed, like rabbits, eating everything in sight. It was decided a fence was needed across the country to divide pastoral land from the dry bushland in the Eastern part of Western Australia.
Today, WA land owners are required to maintain control over the rabbits population on their property.
We stopped at the town of York before saying to goodby in Perth.
Visited the oldest public building in Perth, which is still standing. It is a courthouse built in 1836 by Civil engineer - Henry Reveley.
It was opened on Good Friday 1837 and over the decades has filled many different requirements for the early colonists. Civil cases were heard on Saturday morning and up until 1854 the building also served as a school room, a venue for concerts and meetings, an immigration depot, the Supreme Court, the State Arbitration Court and the Law Society Office.
In 1987 the building was refurbished and opened to the public and named "The Francis Burt Law Education Centre after Sir Francis Theodore Page Burt, Chief Justice for WA 1977-1988.
It is possible to learn about the australian legal process and elements of the legal system, dress up and act ou the characters from historical & fictional scripts and sit in the empty Court Room and learn the roles of the Court personnel.
I met up with two friends from my last trip who are still in Perth. We jumped on a bus bound for Scarborough Beach. It is Perth`s most visited beach, and has wide stretches of golden sand. It is a great place to swim, surf or simply relax in the sun.
The suburb has a wide range of bars, restaurants, and nightclubs close to the beach. We simply hung out on the beach for a while, then in one of the cafe`s. The girls were making bead necklaces to take home for Xmas presents.
In the evening we returned to the City to explore Northbridge,which seems to be where it all happens at night.
I walked the Swan Riverside trail from the Esplande where I had stopped off for lunch at the Lucky Shag Bar. I walked on under the Narrow Bridge, passed the Old Swan Brewery, Crawley Edge Boat House (built 1930), and several water sports establishment, into the Matilda Bay Reserve and Marina.
There was very little on the river except the odd motor boat, a couple of rowers, some little fish swimming at the waters edge, a few jelly fish and some birds.
A fly past of about 20 aircraft flew over the river making its way to the City.
As Matilda Bay was off my map I decided to return but by a bushland reserve which I accidently stumbled upon when I wandered into the Unviersity of WA`s Medical School grounds.
I walked the Crawley Path through the Reserve and luckily found my way to the John Septimus Roe Botanic Gardens - he was the first Surveyor-General of WA (Opened 1830). I then eventually found myself in Kings Park before it got dark.
I enjoyed my walk so much yesterday I decided to explore the trail going in the opposite direction.
Firstly, I came across some stange looking walls which were built in 1995. The plaque said "Epichcresis - The Dance of Joy".
The walk seemed to be more built up with lots of tall buildings in the background. It was also much more windy and cloudy. (I got a very pink face and nose). Then, I came across an interesting piece of parkland that has been planted with native plants to the Swan River as per the original evaluation of the area by explorers Stirling and Fraser in March 1827. It was well laid out and labled.
I came across a bust in the park of Nicholas Baudin, the French explorer who collected more than 200,000 specimens of flora and fauna, which were sent to Paris.
I walked under the Causeway Bridge and found that the sound of the waves of the river echoed loudly. I passed the WACA Cricket Ground, Trinity Boys School, Gloucester Park Trotting Ground and Peace Grove (dedicated to Mohamed Sadat and Yitzhalc Rabin).
I came across a stone bench called Deborah`s Chair and thought of our Debs. Walking on I found the Niche Wall Mural and a great haven at the water inlet just before Goonoonup Bridge where I sat enoying the afternoon sun before returning to the City.
Met up with my Irish friend Deborah, for a trip to the Fremantle Arts Centre Pre-Christmas Market. There were very interesting Arts & Crafts on sale, with some very attractive Arty People present.
There was also live music, wine tasting and lots of delicious foods and the Fremantle History Museum with intriguing stories about the history of the site and Fremantle`s early settlement. However, it was all rather overpriced and out of our limited backpacking budget.
We met up with Deborouah`s friend , Anna, husband and adorable little daughter for lunch at the Park before saying goodbye. Deborah is homeward bound via Thailand.
Family friend Adrian kindly took me out for the day. He showed me beautiful South Perth, driving around the shores of the Swan River where ever possible.
Lots of the shore is no longer accessible by car ,and some not even on foot because of the huge mansions built along its shores. Some of the older buildings have been bought by Property Developers who have pulled the buildings down to make way for very expensive luxury apartments. It is such a shame. The beautiful scenery is lost to the public.
He took me first to a site on a hill where a mental hospital use to stand. There was a threat a few years ago of a developers taking over and the area being lost to the public for ever. There was such a public outcry, and fortunately the people did manage to save it. It had fantastic panoramic views of the river and surrounding area, which were being enjoyed by many families and a Wedding Party.
He showed me several other such places around the river which were equally as beautiful. It was a very enjoyable day. Thank you Adrian.
Today, I jumped a bus heading for Cottesloe Beach.
After lunch on the beach, I walked along the coast for a while. I came across the Indiana Tea House which is situated directly on the beach, just yards from the Ocean, the Cottesloe Reef and the biggest Sundial I have ever seen.
The Reef is composed of limestone pinnacles and platforms with patches of seagrass, kelp beds and sponge gardens. It is home of animals, plants and marine life. Here, I saw the only rabbit I have seen in WA, but I am not sure if it was on the right side of the rabbit fence.
I spent the day getting ready for my journey to NSW and saying goodbye to Perth and WA. I have had a really wonderful time in WA and have a great affection for the state but I felt I had done everything I wanted to do and it was time to move on.
I went to bed particularly early because I had an early start the next day, but as I put my head on the pillow, the mobile rang. It was a friend inviting me out for a drink.
What does a girl do in a situation like that? Well, she gets up, puts on her glad rags, hails a taxi, and has a fun time in East Perth.
I had an early start and I was suffering after my late night out on the town. I waited rather a long time for the airport shuttle, which was very late. However, I had a very pleasant English gentleman to whom to chat whilst I waited.
I got to Perth Airport and had my usual tussle with the Airport Officials. I must look like a terrorist or something!! I got to the departure gate just as they were boarding the plane. The plane was then late leaving because three people didn`t turn up. Oh, the joys of travelling!
I had an uneventful journey until I got the Sydney. I jumped on the Airport Shuttle for my hostel in Kings Cross. I sat on this bus for nearly 2 hours. I had a good tour of the City, though. I was the last to be dropped off, and I was exhausted.
The hostel is pleasant, homely and friendly and I have been given a room sharing with two charming young men. How bads that????
I took myself off for a self guided walking tour of Central Sydney. Walking from Kings Cross to Cook & Philip Park, St Mary`s Cathedral, Hyde Park, Archibold Fountain, The Domain, and Art Gallery.
Along Wooloomooloo Bay I walked to Mrs Macquaries Chair, then into the Royal Botanic Gardens, around Farm Cove, the Government House Gardens and Sydney Opera House. Then back via the Centre Point Tower, weaving my way back to my hostel.
Along the Woolmooloo Bay they are recreating Sydney`s bushland as Mrs. Elizabeth Macquarie may have seen it in 1816.
She was the wife of the Govenor of the time, who had her chair carved into a rock ledge seat where she liked to sit and admire the view of the harbour. I am sure it is a very different view today but it was still pleasant.
The Botanic Gardens are large and made up of several smaller gardens. High, middle, and low gardens. Rose, herb, palm and palace gardens. In one of the gardens I saw a flock of large bats hanging in the trees.
Nearby I discovered "Sylvester the Digester". A vertical compost unit for processing garden waste into mulch for reuse.
I walked to Darling Harbour. It is a major tourist attraction, and packed with people. It attracts over 16 million visitors a year. It has harbourside cafes and restaurants.
It also has the IMAX Theatre, which has the largest cinema screen in the world. There is the Sydney Aquarium, Powerhouse Museum and National Maritime Museum and lots more. However, I visited none of them, it was to crowded for me.
I walked around Cockle Bay Wharf, across Pyamont Bridge, and along the Harbourside.
A free street exhibition of photographs by Yann Arthus-Bertrand, taking people on a journey through the realities of the World really impressed me. They were aerial photographs reflecting the natural habitiates and expressions of life, and mans imprint and assault on his environment. Excellent!
I had planned to explore "The Rocks" but I could see a storm coming up so decided to get back to the hostel before it hit. I am glad I did because the rain was so heavy it flooded the streets.
The weather was humid, grey and overcast as I set out from Sydney for Newcastle, which is about 2 hours up the coast.
The bus left town via the Sydney Harbour Bridge, making is way towards Epping, where I understand PFE Australia is located.
After we left the suburbs of Sydney behind there were some fantasticly stunning scenic views overlooking the rivers and bushland, as we drove high above on the Pacific Highway. Eventually, the sun came out.
When I arrived I had time to walk the Newcastle Port`s foreshore to an area they call the Nobby`s Headland. No one seems to know why is its called Nobby`s but it is the symbolic landmark of the Newcastle Port and a pleasant walk at dusk. It has a very interesting breakwall built by convicts.
I spent the afternoon walking the Scenic Coastal Walk from the Nobby`s Headland to the Merewether Ocean Baths, then a bit of the Great North Walk to the Glenrock State Recereation Reserve and the Glenrock Lagoon.
If you look from the Headland of Shepherd`s Hill Park you can see pockets of beaches, high rocky cliffs, coast bluffs and sand dunes. Add the Hunter River, Glenrock Lagoon and Stockton and you have a great variety of coastline.
Glenrock is the site of Australia`s earliest Coal Mines. Coal was first found in 1797 on Dr. Mitchell`s land at Burchwood. The Hunter River Coal was declared to be state property owned by the Crown and gangs of convicts were sent to mine the seams and load the vessels. Newcastle became one of the largest Coal Export Ports in the world. There are also many stories of ghosts haunting the mining area.
The Awabakal people who inhabited the area, lived by haunting and gathering and making use of the rich food supply of marine life and bush tucker. They made the natural features of the landscape their sacred site.
The culture today is very much determined by the sea. Children soon learn to swim and enjoy water sports. This has produced some of the best Surfers of all times.
My return journey was fraught with drama. I lost the path on the Great North Walk and found myself in a dense forest of which I was unable to find my way out. It was very frightening. I was stuck for about 30 minutes or more, and I kept walking into spiders webs. Not nice!
Then when I did find a way out I found I had walked around in a circle. I did eventually find my way to the beach and returned that way.
Then, as I walked along I noticed that there was a violent storm out at sea and it was coming my way. I managed to keep it behind me. The winds were so strong I could hardly keep my footing. I made the hostel just 3 mintues before it hit the town. Close Call !
Information signs helped me navigate my way along the East Newcastle Heritage Walk. It was about 3km in length and took about 1 - 2 hours at a comfortable stroll. The rain held off long enough for me to complete it.
The Hunter rRver, the ancient estuary, originally a valued resource for the local ingigenous Awabakal people, is now a World renowned port. The European settlement that remade the shoreline founded and developed a notable city of industry and commerce.
The walk told the story of the indigenous inhabitation. The beaching of Lt. John Shortland and his crew`s Whale Boat in 1797, the discovery of coal andthe arrival of convicts to work the seams, load the vessels and later build the Nobby`s breakwall. It told the story of the growth of the town and the sea port.
I moved on up the coast to Port Macquarie. The journey took me through many forests and passed several rivers. The rivers all looked very high. We drove along the Pacific Highway. It was very overcast and it even rained for part of the journey.
Port Macquarie is located on the Hastings River, Marie River, Limeburners Creek and Pacific Ocean. It has 9 beaches and several Nature Reserve Parks surrounding it. Lots for me to do if the rain hold off long enough.
I had time to explore the town and walk along the river for a bit before the Bar - B - Q meal the hostel put on for the travellers.
We had a bad storm during the night and again this morning. Never-the-less I decided to walk the coastal path from Port Macquarie Town to Tacking Point Lighthouse. This would have taken in 7 of the 9 beaches surrounding Port Macquarie. However, the black clouds forced me to return to town after only going to Town Beach and Oxley Beach.
I walked from town along the Hastings River path towards the Ocean where the breakwall ends. The wall was very colourful where the vistors had decorated them with pictures and messages for all to enjoy. This took me to Town Beach.
I continued around the headland at the southern end of Oxley Beach. It was well worth the walk, it had pleasant views of the ocean and beach. This section was called Doctor`s Walk. It included Flagstaff Hill, Windmill Hill and what use to be called Gillman`s Folly Lookout. The Lookout had a flat roof and was also used for dancing.
I return to town to learn about the history of the town at the Museum, which for several years was a Store and Home of Francis Marchment and his family.. Port Macquarie was established as a penal settlement in 1821 for re-affending convicts. It was an isolated and dangerous location, the only access being by sea. Life was hard for them, they had to work gathering shells and burning lime.
Before the explorer John Oxley found the area and called it Port Macquarie after the Govenor of NSW, the Birpai people in habited the area for many years.
The town opened to free settlers in 1830. Boatsheds, repair yards, and warehouses sprung up along the foreshore.
The Museum was very informative with lots of memorabilia, artefacts from the early settlement days.
Across the road was the old Courthouse, and further down the road the Historic Cemetery. The Cemetery has many of the early settlers buried in it, one of them being Doctor Fattorini (died 1853) who was thought to be the illegitimate son of Napoleon.
I then walked along the Mangrove walkway of the Kooloonbung Creek before deciding I had enough for one day, and returned to the hostel.
I took the Westport & Marina Walk to Settlement Point. This walk took in West Park, The Marina, the Canal Development of North Harbour, and followed the Hastings River to the ferry crossing at the Settlement Point Reserve.
I returned the same way, except I decided to cross the canal via the concrete weir. I thought it would be quicker. It wasn`t, of course, I got lost. Eventually, I found my way back into town,but I bearly had time to walk to the other side of town to be in time for the afternoon tour of the Koala Hospital.
The hospital has Koala admissions of between 200-300 each year. The very sick are treated in intensive care. The tour was very informative and gave a good insight into the life of a Koala.
Nearby was the historic Rota House which is also located in the Macquarie Nature Reserve. It is a 19th Century European Settlement Building, once owned by the Flynn Family. Members of the family lived in the house until 1976.
We had a few drama`s during the night in my dorm. Not only did we have a heavy rain storm, we had 3 very drunk Canadian girls, and an amorous young man who wanted to get in to say goodnight to his German girlfriend. As if that wasn`t enough, one of the Canadian`s disappeared with a boy from Brisbane, and her mates were frantic. Eventually, she returned and spent the rest of the night with her head down the toilet.
I think I`ll go back to sharing with the lads. They are less trouble.
I took the afternoon bus to Coff`s Harbour.
Coff`s Harbour is half way between Sydney and Brisbane. It has a subtropical environment of golden beaches, lush rainforests and sweeping countryside. When I arrived I only had enought time to walk to Park Beach before the sun went down.
I took a walk around Park Beach to Coffs Harbour, then Mutton Bird Island.
Mutton Bird Island has thousands of nesting Wedgetailed Shearwaters, but I didn`t see any because the island doesn`t become active until dusk, when they return to their burrow nests. Beyond here is Solitary Islands Marine Park.
Solitary Island`s Marine Park covers 71,000 hectures stretching from Muttoin Bird Island in the south to Plover Island in the north. It also extends up to the tidal limits of creeks and esturaries including Coffs Creek. It provides protection for marine species and habitats. It also caters for commercial and recreational activities.
I then walked around the Marina to the timber jetty which opened in 1892 to ship timber, farm produce and fish.
I walked around the Jetty Beach, onto the promenade, along Coffs Creek trail, to the Botanic Gardens. I got there just an hour before it closed, so only had time to walk the gardens of Mangroves walk, the Rare & Endangered Plants of North Coast, the Rainforests, the Aboriginal Plants and the Sensory Gardens.
I visited the "Pet Porpoise Pool" situated between the Jetty and the Creek.
Here, I got a lovely big kiss on the cheek from a seal. He was very gentle, although a bit smelly. I also watched a show put on by a sea lion, a long haired seal and four very mischievous dolphins.
After the show I got to feed the fairy penguins and an interesting array of fish, including a Port Jackson Shark.
From here I walked along the Mangroves broadwalk beside the Coffs Creek, following the Creek path as far as Saltwater Park.
Then I decided to return to the hostel because I could see another storm coming up. I am getting experienced at reading the weather now, and managed to reach safety before it hit.
The day started well with a walk from the hostel to Diggers Beach, then to the top of Macauley`s Headland from which, I had good views of Korora Beach and the Solitary Islands. On the other side view of Park Beach and the Coffs Harbour area. There were lots of dark clouds overhead which kept it cool. Good for walking.
I walked back to town and visited Clogs Barn where they make clogs and have a Dutch Model Village.
I took the 4.45pm bus to Byron Bay. The bus travelled along the Pacific Highway passing the Big Banana Entertainment Complex, Banana Plantations, lush green forests in the Clare Valley and followed the Clarence and Richmond Rivers. Just before the bridge outside Ballina the traffic stopped and we stood still for about one and half hours in heavy rain, whilst the emergency services cleared the road following a fatal accident. Apparently, a young family died in the wreckage.
I rang to inform the hostel to expect me late. I was told I would have to walk to the hostel, which I did in the rain. I couldn`t find the hostel but when eventually I did, and I managed to get in, I was told they had no note of my booking and there were no beds left. I was not best pleased and suggested that they found one because I wasn`t going away. They did find a bed, in fact, two in the mens dorm. I took up residency in one.
Weather still cloudy and overcast but I decided to walk to the Lighthouse at Cape Byron. I walked the well made path through the Headland Rainforest and Palm Valley. This took me passed Main Beach, Clarkes Beach, The Pass, Watego`s Beach and Little Watego`s Beach.
The path around Cape Byron was a steep climb but there were some excerllent views of the beachs and ocean. In season it is possible to see the whales migrating but not today.
The Lighthouse was was built in 1901. It is possible to take a tour to the top for panoramic views, but I didn`t go. After 30 minutes I started to make my way back to town via Cosy Corner where I got a good view of Tallow Beach.
I came across a path that went into the forest, I was a bit apprehensive after my last encounter with a forest. However, I bumped into a man carrying a Hangglider up the path. He told me it was a good path that would take me back into town but I had to be careful of snakes. It turned out that he was the Hanggliding Instuctor and suggested I had a go, but I much prefered to tackle the snakes than jump off a cliff. So we said our goodbyes.
The walking track took me through Banksig Woodland, Bush Box Forest, and Littoral Rainforest, and ended in the Clarkes Beach area. I returned to town.
It has been overcast again, with a few small showers. There is not much for me to do around here, except sit in a cafe, bar or go shopping. I feel I don`t want to stray to far from town encase of a storm.
However, I did chance a walk beside the Belongil Creek, Belongil Fields and Belongil Beach for a bit. I had hoped to see the ship wreck off the beach but there was not much to see.
During the afternoon I went to the Cinema to watch a documentary film called "Deep Water". It was about the lone yachtsman, Donald Crowhurst`s attempt to circle the world in his yacht in 1968/9. He was so desperate to win, he cheated, lost his mind during the voyage, and took his own life.
It was tragic story, he needed the money to support his wife and 4 young children. Robin Knox-Johnson who did win the 5,000 pound sterling prize donated the money to the Crowhurst family.
I took the morning bus for Brisbane. I was quite pleased to leave Byron Bay behind. It was predominately a young persons place, although there were a large number of ageing hippies floating around, for me it was just one drama after another. The culture of beach, booze, drugs and free sex is not my scene.
The journey to Brisbane was pleasant jopurney, travelling along the Tweed Valley Highway. There were lots of Scottish names around and the beautiful lush valleys reminded me of the Highlands of Scotland.
The hostel in the City of Brisbane had a very different feel about it. It had a relaxed atmosphere.
I had time to explore the City a bit, crossing the William Jetty Bridge to the Southbank Gardens, and walked beside the Brisbane River.
Bisbane is big and extremely busy with last minute Christmas Shoppers, Holiday Makers and City Workers.
I did the half of a City Walking Tour going first to the heart of Brisbane`s shopping precinct, the Queen Street Mall, then onto the Treasury Casino, the Commissariat Store built by convicts in 1829. The Masions came next, the Pariament House, The Old Government House, QUT Cultural Precinct , and the Botanic Gardens.
From the Botanic Gardens I walked the Mangrove Broadwalk and continued walking along the River Path passed the Eagle Street Pier, Customs House and to the Story Bridge, before making my way back via the City.
I visited the Roman Catholic Cathedral of St Stephen`s, King George Square and the City Hall. The City Hall has a 92 mtr high clock tower, marble stair case, and a circular Concert Hall. It also houses the Museum of Brisbane.
The Museum is currently showing the Lord Mayor`s Photographic Competition. The emphasis being on "The Environment". There is an exhibition of the paintings of the Brisbane Srt5ist, Richard John Randall (1869-1906).
The most interesting section of the Museum for me was the one dedicated to the "Goodna Mental Hospital" (1865-present), and the Mental Health in Queensland.
I continued my self-guided walking tour of the city visiting the Albert Street, Ann Street and St. Andrews Churches, then Central Station completed in 1901.
I stopped at the beautiful Anza Square War Memorial and Shine of Memories Eternal Flame. Opposite was a very grand building which houses the General Post Office.
I did a bit of shopping in the Queens Street Mall where I found a Show taking place. I stopped to watch it before walking across the victoria Bridge to the Queensland Art Galley and Gallery of Modern Art.
It is large, with some 14 galleries showing Asian Art, British Prints, International Art, and Australian Art. It also has a Fairweather Room, Queensland Heritage Room, a room dedicated to the landscape paintings of Kenneth MacQueen and a special display of Andy Warhol.
My favourite of the day was a painting by Nicholas Chavalier, born in St. Petersberg, but he studied in Europe. He was for 20 years an Art Advisor to the Art Galleries of NSW. It was entitled "Weary". A picture of a little flower girl asleep on a bench in St. Leonards, painted in 1878.
I have for a while been looking for paintings by an Aboriginal Artist named Albert Namatjira. He came from Hermannsberg, Central Australia and was amongst the first Aboriginal Artists to adapt to watercolour painitng. He studied with artist Rex Batterbee in 1934, and founded the Hermannsberg School of Art. He influenced Aboriginal Artists nationwide for decades, but I don`t seem to manage to find any of his work. However, I did come across an excellent painting of him by William Dargie in 1956.
Since being in Brisbane I have been unable to get into my email, so I have been unable to contact anyone to wish them seasons greetings. I hope to reach as many of you as possible through my diary.
My message:
Hi Everybody,
I am currently in Brisbane for a few days before moving onto a place called Noosa for Christmas and then Fraser Island for New Year.
I have been in Australia for 6 months, and have had to most fantastic journey, met some amazing people, visited some awesome places, but its not over yet. I still have until the middle of February before leaving for New Zealand, and I intend getting as much pleasure out of the time I have left. I have visited all the States of Australia, but it is such a vast Country that there is still lots for me to do and experience. I`ll keep you posted.
I would life to thank you all for your support in my adventure, wish you a Merry Christmas and a happy, safe and enjoyable New Year.
My love to you all.
Jean xx
I awoke to find that the weather had changed overnight to wet and chilly.
When the rain stopped I decided to walk to the Southbank and the Life Style Market. My young friend Kate, who is studying at Sydney University, kept me company.
Unfortunately, the rain came again just as we arrived and we were soon very wet. It rather spoilt our visit, which was such a shame, because there where some beautiful arts and crafts on sale.
There were also lots of holiday makers around, all sheltering from the rain under any cover they could find. But, the rain didn`t seem to bother the children playing in the water on the man-made Street Beach.
The rain stopped late afternoon, so I went out to say goodbye to Brisbane, visiting the Wickham Park and the Roma Street Parkland that give a good view of the City.
I took the morning bus bound for Noosa, leaving the Gold coast for the Sunshine Coast, only there was no sunshine along the way. It was overcast with very dark clouds which got darker the farther north we travelled. However, it waited until I got to Noosa before it rained and I got wet again.
After dinner I went to the Bar where I met a group of people with whom I spent the evening. The group was a mixture of German, a New Zealander, South African and British. It was a fun evening.
It was a noisy night with various parties going on in different rooms, but I got up early in order to go to the beach to see how Australians spend a typical Xmas Morning on the beach. It was busy despite the overcast conditions.
I got back to the hostel in time for lunch. I joined my group for the meal of cold meat and salads. There were dustbins full of Sangria all day.
After lunch my group walked off the effects of the Sangria. Most, just walked down to the beach, but the rest of us walked along the coast path tot he National Park and back along the beach. Guess who fell on her bum and sustained a huge bruise. I blame the Sangria!??
Back at the hostel the Party continued and the Sangria flowed until it got light.
Wet, wet, wet with tropical rain. I stayed in bed until mid-day then actually watched the Cricket on TV (another Aussie tradition).
When I got bored, I put on my wet weather gear and walked in the National Park to the Laguna Lookout and back via the William Hack Reserve, the Viviolan Reserve and Noosa Hill.
I awoke again to heavy rainfall, but by mid-day it had stopped long enough to allow me to walk to Noosaville and back.
Noosaville with it`s waterfront position provides a wonderful ambience for it`s cafes, restaurants, holiday apartments, boutiques and shops. Calm swimming conditions and landscaped foreshore make it a popular attraction for families, walking and cycling. It is the gateway to the Noose River and lake system, the base for watersports and the starting point for the boat cruises heading up river to Lake Cootharobah and the Everglades.
It was raining heavily most of the night but I put on my wet weather gear and walked the Coastal Track which took me through Little Cove, The Boiling Pot, Tea Tree Bay, Granite Bay, Dolphin Point, Winch Cove and Hells Gate.
At Hells Gate I got good views for fear of being blown off the cliff.
I returned to Main Beach via the long Tanglewood Track through the Noosa National Park. It was a good walk but I got very wet.
The Headland of Noose National Park is the most famous of regions parks and the most visited park in Australia. There are rainforests, eucalypt forests, heath, beach and rocky headlands.
I took the morning bus to Hervey Bay. During the journey I received a call from the organisers of my trip to Fraser Island to say that the trip had been cancelled due to a possible cyclone heading for the Island. It had been closed to campers. I was already en route so had no choice but to continue.The hostel was quiet but the weather didn`t seem to bad, extemely windy but sunny. I went out to explore the area.I found an interesting Shark Museum which told of the findings of a Professional Shark Hunternamed Vic Hislop. With this museum he aims to inform the public of the facts about the big sharks, such as the Great White and Tiger Sharks, that are, in his opinion, just killing machines, killing millions of smaller fish.He wanted to see them culled but no wiped out. I learnt a great deal about the subject and came to the same conclusion as Vic.
I should have been leaving for my camping trip today but Fraser Island is still closed to campers, because of the weather conditions.
I decided to walk the Coastal Path instead, going to Point Vernon. Along the way I learnt a great deal about the Flying Fox Colony that inhabits the Tooan Tooan Creek Area. There is a newly constructed bat viewing station from which I could view the 50,000 - 100,000 strong colony and learn about their habits.
I continued my blustery journey to Point Vernon but I found is a bit disappointing. It was jus another beach. I walked back (12km return trip).
On my return trip I found a Historical Village and Museum. It had 19 historical buildings that had been transported and reconstructed on the site. It also had 8,000 exhibits from a bygone age. It was fascinating to wander around these old buildings from the 1800`s and imagine what it must have been like to live in that era.
Weather very windy and wet again during the night, and again my trip cancelled. I put on my wet weather gear again and walked the Coastal Path in the opposite direction going to the Boat Harbour.
It was a long walk, I came across the Urangan Pier first. The Pier use to be a hive of activity and buzz as a steam train rattled down it in the early 1900`s. I learnt that Bundaberg Sugar, Burrum Coal and Fraser Island Timber would be loaded onto cargo ships for export around the World.
Export stopped in 1985. Now, there are only a few fishermen hoping to catch a fish or two for supper, and tourists like me walking to the end of it, where today it was extremely bustery.
I coninued to walk along the path of the Great Sandy Beach to the Boat Harbour. The waters of the beach are sheltered by Fraser Island and are fringed by the beaches, mudflats and mangroves, teeming wih marine life. Many areas are protected to maintain their diverse natural, cultural and scenic values.
I spend New Year`s Eve sitting with a very sick Backpacker who was looking for the comfort of her Mum.
It is a wet,wet,wet New Year`s Day. The locals love it. It is usually in the 40`s but not this year. I have never seen so much rain fall in one day. Fraser Island is still closed to campers.
I held up in the hostel all morning but decided to brave the weather in the afternoon. I only got a short way up the road before I was soaked. When I got to the Bat Observation Shelter I stopped for a while watching them getting wet. They were not happy little chaps, neither was I.
However, I noticed that the Pelicans were happily sloshing around on the beach across the road.
I returned to the hostel via the Freshwater Canal. It wasn`t spectacular but it was different.
Happy New Year.
The weather is no better but I decided to go walking anyway. I walked towards Urangan on the back streets. I got excited when I found the river, but unfortunately, it was to wet to get anywhere near it.
I did, however, find the Sandy Region Botanic Gardens situated on 6,000 year old foreshore dunes. The 26 hector property was established to display plants of the Wide Bay and Great Sandy Bay.
There was a Woodland and Wetland area, Bush Tucker Garden, Rainforest, Island with Japanese Bridge over the Lagoon and an Orchid House. I also found some Aboriginal Bark Paintings.
My return journey was extremely wet and I was soaked by the time I reached the hostel.
Hervey Bay is known worldwide as a whale-watching spot. It was named after the notorious British womaniser, Lord Augustus Hervey in 1770.
First Settlers came in 1850`s. Farming started during 1870`s, and the region was home to dairy, sugar cane and pinapples farms. It became a popular holiday destination in the 1920`s.
I finally managed to persuade my Tour Organisers to change my booking from a camping trip to a guided tour. Campers are still not allowed on Fraser Island, but Tour Buses are allowed although not in the North of the Island. The trip was for two days and one night at the Eurong Resort.
Once on the Island, Steve, our tour Guide drove us along 75 mile beach to Eli Creek. It rained most of the time, the winds were strong and the sky looked grey and angry. I walked for a bit beside the freshwater Creek. some people swam.
We travelled onto the Maheno Wreck, took pictures before going out to the Pinnacles to take more pictures. It rained continuously.
We went to the Resort for lunch before walking in the Rainforest at Central Station, a former logging camp. The walking track took us to Wanggoolba Creek via a broadwalk.
The Creek is home to magnificent giant King Fern. There were also excellent examples of Kauri Pine, Brush Box, Fraser Island Satinay and Piccabeen Palms.
We returned to the Resort for the evening. It rained all night.
Lake Wobby is surrounded on one side by the massive Hammerstone Sandblow and eucalypt forests on the three other sides. This is a barrage lake, formed when a creek becomes blocked by shifting sand dunes causing water flow to be damed. It was emerald green water and home to 13 species of fish. I walked alone to the Lookout. A steep climb but I got magnificent views over the lake and sand blow.
After lunch at the Resort we went again inland to Lake McKenzie, a sparkling blue freshwater lake ringed by white sandy beaches and eucalypt forests. It is home to turtles.
A very cheeky dingo came onto the beach trying to pinch the bathers` bags. He was chased away but four times he came back to try again.
Later afternoon we took the barge back to Hervey Bay where I was dropped off at the Bus Station with two lively British Northern Girls. They took me to the pub for a meal and two bottles of wine.
We took the packed night bus to Airlie Beach.
I never slept during the 13-hour bus trip to Airlie Beach. Just as we entered the town the heavens opened and I got wet again.
I was so exhausted, I did very little all day. I did my washing, then walked to the Lagoon where I sat for a couple of hours relaxing.
I returned to the hostel, went to bed early and had a good sleep.
Walked to the Marina to meet up with my Whitsunday Cruise on the Anaconda 2. There were three couples, four young men and me, with a crew of four.
The sun was shining when we set out. We did get a batch of rain but it soon cleared.
We had to hire stinger suits because it is Jelly Fish season and the waters are infested with all kinds of Jelly Fish.
We stopped at Hook Island for a snorkel but I didn`t go snorkelling, I went along for the ride, feed the fish and take pictures. There was a variety of fish swimming around the boat. One was quite large, his name was George.
After lunch we sailed on to Whitsunday Island and the National Park. We were taken ashore to walk through the forest to the Lookout. It was worth the climb. My group walked down to the beach for a swim bhefore returning to the boat for dinner.
We watched the sun go down at Pallion Point and anchored for the night just off Hazelwood Island.
We all slept on deck under the stars. It was magical.
Although, cooler outside I didn`t sleep much because I was not use to the sounds of the sea.
After breakfast the snorkel gang went out, but again, I only went along for the ride. Apparently, there were few fish only turtles.
Ann, the cook, and I were dropped off on Thomas Island where we went exploring.
Later that afternoon we were taken to South Mould Island Resort for a swim in their magnificent pool, and had dinner with another group at the Beach Bar/Restaurant. We had a steak dinner and played drinking games.
My party consisted of a British couple, a Norwegian Couple and a Swiss couple on honeymoon. Two Officers in the Netherlands Airforce, a Backpacker from the Netherlands, a Student from South Korea and me.
Most of us returned to our boat on the first ferry with the skipper. Whilst we waited for the others to return he told us stories about his adventures at sea. We, the listeners,drank wine.
The rest of our party and the other crew members returned on the next ferry. I was well tipsy by that time but still sat with the boys chatting until it looked like it was going to be a heavy session. Then I went to bed.
I slept again on deck, but this time with all the alcohol inside me I slept well, even through the rain. Fortunately, it was only a shower.
Early in the morning there was some very heavy swells as the wind started to get stronger. The skipper had started moving up the coast at daybreak. Most people were still sleeping.
The boys, including myself, were hung over, but after breakfast the snorkel gang still went out off Whitehaven Beach. This time I did find the courage to put on my stinger suit and go along with my noodle. It probably had something to do with the alcohol still swimming around inside me.
The weather was not so sunny. The wind had shifted the sand and made it difficult to see the coral clearly. Not many fish in the area either which made the snorkelling not so interesting. However, I followed the boys up the rear until I suddenly realised I had been following the wrong group and was spranded in the ocean alone. I began to get a bit nervous until I noticed one of them on the beach. I made my way slowly to the beach. Here I found my whole party enjoying beach games or sunbathing.
After lunch we went to Border Island where the snorkel gang went out again, but this time I stayed on board the boat. Apparently, the fish were plentiful in this spot and they had a good time chasing the fish.
Finally, we made our way back to Airlie Beach where we had to say goodbye to the Anaconda 2 and its crew. We also had to say goodbye to our Dutch Airman because they had a bus to catch. I was sorry to see them go, they were really sweet guys.
The rest of the group met up for a end of tour dinner and drink. So another tour ended.
I took the morning bus to Townsville, then the ferry to Magnetic Island. I was very impressed with the Island, it was very pretty, more like Paradise than Fraser, I thought.
After dinner I went to the Cane Toad Racing which was interesting. The organiser exhibited the toads. Each one had a different coloured ribbon around its neck. The punters bid for the toad, whoever bids the most owned the toad for the race. The toads were then turned out onto the floor within the inner circle. Whichever toad jumped to the outer circle first won the game and whoever owned the toad won the money.
I decided to buy a one day bus ticket to help me see Magnetic Island. A large portion of the Island is, unfortunately, not accessable by bus or car, It is National Park Bushland.
Firstly, I went to Horseshoe Bay in the North. In 1921 George Butler advertised Sunday excursions from Townsville to Horseshoe on the launch "Nellboy". They became very popular.
The foreshore supports vegetation in a relately intact and undisturbed condition. It is made up of grassland, woodlands, forests and vineland. Horseshoe Bay is a sanctuary for Dugong`s. Their number have deminished in recent years. There are several walking tracks in the area.
I then took the bus to the other end of the Island, Picnic Bay in the South. I caught sight of the steel-hull of the shipwreck at Hawkings Point. There is a fine jetting and a stinger net situated on the foreshore.
From here I went to Nelly Bay where I took a walk into the Rainforest before returning to Geoffrey Bay which is where my hostel is located. I met up with my Northern friends who had just arrived. One of them had her birthday so we had a bottle of wine to celebrate.
The locals are friendly. They seem to enjoy meeting uo with non-local people, so we had a lot of chatty company.
I took the ferry back to Townsville where I was to get the bus for Mission Beach.
Townsville is a large tropical city and known as the capital of North Queensland. It is a progressive city but it has retained much of its original architecture, its heritage, character and friendliness. It is also a breeding ground for waterbirds and other wildlife.
I left on the morning bus travelling through forests, sugar and banana plantations. The heavy rainfall we experienced on Magnetic Island in the early hours caught up with me again at Cardwell where the bus stopped for lunch.
I found Mission Beach had a village feel about it. It was spread out with a creek either side of the hostel, cutting it off at high tide, and it does have crocodiles. I stayed close to the hostel for the rest of the day.
Dune Island is nearby with water sports and tropical walks. There is a boat that leaves each morning or a watertaxi from Wongaling Beach which is where I am staying.
It had been raining heavily during the night but it had stopped by daybreak. I decided to take a walk through the rainforest on the Licuala Walking Track. A young German girl from the hostel joined me. The owner of the Backpackers, a man from the Netherlands who had come to Australia in 1968, drove us to the starting point.
It was a 8km track, we were told to be careful of the snakes which are large in this area, and of Cassowaries. Cassowaries stand well over 1 mtr high and attack if confronted, but largely they are shy birds.
It was an enjoyable walk, my friend was good company, and we saw neither snakes of Cassowaries, but we did see lots of beautiful butterflies, especially the blue Ulysses.
When we came to the end of the track we had to walk 4km on the road. This was hard. Eventually, we reached Mission Beach. My friend went for a swim within the Stinger Net, whilst I relaxed under the shade of the trees watching the Sky Divers land on the beach.
After a rest we returned via the beach. However, when we got to Porters Creek, it was still to high to cross from Mission Beach to Wongaling Beach. We had to wade across.
We had been told not to cross it encase of crocodiles. Fortunately, we found a local man who had been on the look out for crocs, and told us it was safe, so we took the chance and wadded across. It was quite an adventure, although perhaps fool hardy.
The hostel put on a free Bar-B-Q during the evening. Later it rained.
The last leg of my trip up the East Coast on the Greyhound Bus, and at the bus stop I bumped into Christina, another young German girl I had met at the beginning of the trip. We finished it together.
As we drove the 2 hours to Cairns, the sky became black and it rained just as we got off the bus. I had to take a taxi to the hostel which seemed to be a long way out of town. It was a good hostel with the facilities, however. I checked in and went out to explore.
I found the Esplande and walked all the way to the Marina (30-40 minute walk). The tide was going out exposing the mud flats. There were many wading birds and marine life crawling around. I returned to the hostel.
I had another early start for my trip to the Great Barrier Reef. The hostel bus dropped me off with others, at the Reef Fleet Terminal in the Harbour. I got on the "down under" boat Osprey V for a day of snorkelling. I had also booked onto the semi submersible reef tour, in order to get a divers view of the best parts of the reef, and get pictures of the fish.
The weather conditions proved to be to bad for the submersible to go down. The wind was so strong it produced huge swells and we had such a bumpy ride to get out to the reef, the skipper would only go to one location, the Norman Reef.
I hired a stinger suit so I could at least go snorkelling over the reef. (It is jelly fish season). I was one of the first to go out into the ocean which was fortunate, because I was able to get a good look before it got crowded.
The visability was not at its best and the waves large. I found it easier to stay under the water where it wasn`t so choppy. The reef was amazing, I saw lots of fish.
I had lunch then relaxed on the boat. A young German Student from my hostel kept me company for the day.
Mid afternoon, the skipper did move the boat to the Hastings Reef, where the "down under" Helicopter Pad was located. A boat from the Pad made a bit of a show as it picked up the passengers who wanted to see the reef from the air. It was a bit of entertainment.
The crew also staged a rescue of a drowning passenger.
We returned to Cairns. As I walked back via the Geyhound Bus stop, I bumped into my Northern friends just arriving.
Yet another early start for my trip to Cape Tribulation, this time. We drove along the coast to the Rainforest Habitat Wildlife Sanctuary at Port Douglas. Here we were able to get up close and personal with rare and endangered Austrfalian birds and animals.
We entered the Daintree National Park and made our way to the Mossman Gorge; where we enjoyed a guided walk through the rainforest with Scott and Fraser, our guides. They told us about the dangerous plants and animals. We stopped for a refreshing swim in the crystal clear stream at the Rex Creek and crossed the Creek on the Swing Bridge.
After lunch we were taken for a cruise on the River Daintree to go Crocodile Hunting. Bruce, the Crocodile Hunter, found three. A female on her nest, a young male, and a baby in the water. They were all well hidden.
I was dropped off at the Beach House Resort which was along the track a bit. It was here that the rainforest meets the reef. The Resort is located in the middle of the Rainforest.
My young companion, Kate, from England and I took a walk along the beach to the Cape Tribulation Lookout, a 3km return trip.
On the way we managed to pick up two stray dogs. Kate, a farmers daughter, adopted them or rather they adopted her. The poor animals were obviously starving. they followed us all the way from the Resort to the Lookout.
At the Lookout we met up with two girls from Perth with a car. They agreed to take the dogs to a Rescue Centre. That was the last we saw of our canine pales.
After lunch we had a date in the Rainforest with some men who strapped us in a harness and sent us flying across the trees, Jungle Surfing.
The Jungle Surfing was set in the Daintree Rainforest. It took us on a unique tour of the canopy of the forest where we didn`t even touch the ground. We flew through the forest on flying fox ziplines, stopping at five tree platforms to take spectacular bird`s eye views over the treetops, down the cascading streams and out to the Great Barrier Reef.
The longest span was over 75m and the platforms varied in height from 2 - 19.5m above ground. At the highest point we flew over 22m above Mason Creek. We flew slow, fast and up side down. In the background was Mt Sorrow.
After dark I went back to the same forest for a night time tour. The Rainforest here had barely changed for 120 million years. At night it gives a different perspective of the forest. However, we didn`t see many animals, only insects like Spiders.
Towards the end of the two and half hours it started to rain.
When I went to bed it was raining only lightly but by 2am the wind had got up into a wild fury, going around and around the rainforest surrounding the Resort in which I was staying. It was like a mini cyclone, taking trees as it went. I heard several trees and branches go down and I prayed that our wooden beach hut would be safe.
I lay in the dark listening to the wind, when I heard ,what sounded like a clap of thunder, then minutes later an almighty crash nearby. I was to frightened to go outside to investigate, so were the other girls in my dorm. (The sound I heard was a tree becoming detached from the ground before it fell down).The wind continued for approximately another hour before it went quiet.
When I got up in the morning I discovered that a huge tree had come down and crashed through the roof of the shower block next door. Thankfully nobody was in the loo at the time.
Trees were blocking the path. I had to crawl under them in order to satisfy my call of nature. The green ants made a meal of me as I went. They were not happy about their house being blown down.
Whilst, I waited for the path the be cleared I met Kevin, a school teacher on holiday from Adelaide.
Later ,Kevin was king enough to take me in his car to Mason`s Swimming Hole, a 9km return journey from the Resort. It was a cool, clear swimming hole in the forest. We walked along the track for a bit, crossed Mason`s Creek which was at low tide, and had a refreshing swim with the fish.
We returned to the Resort to find that my Northern friends, who had been following me up the coast, had just arrived. I was able to say goodbye to them before getting on the tour bus back to Cairns.
At the hostel in Cairns I met up with several travel buddies, all finishing their journey up the coast. It was really good to met up with them and exhange experiences, and say our goodbyes.
I took the shuttle to the Airport where I had arranged to met Kevin, whom I discovered was taking the same plane back to Sydney. He was going onto Adelaide.
In Sydney, it was raining. What a surprise??? I checked into my hostel in the City then made my way to the Inter Continental Hotel to met up with my sister, Pam and her friend Christine.
They treated me to dinner in their hotel. It was a real luxury. I had a banquet.
I met the girls at their hotel. They were on the 23rd floor which had commanding views of the Harbour, Sydney Harbour Bridge and Sydney Opera House.
It was still raining heavily. We put on our raincoats, put up our umbrellas and explored the Botanic Gardens. Here we found a wishing tree. I walked 3 times around it forwards and 3 times backwards, made a wish. But, it still rained.
We walked on around Farm Cove to the Opera House then onto Circular Quay, and the shops. We ended up in the Museum of Sydney where it was dry.
The Museum of Sydney was built on the site of the first Government House. It preserves many items of Sydney`s social history, from an early Aboriginal perspective up to the present day.
In the evening, after it got dark ,we took a walk to Darling Harbour. It was buzzing despite the rain, and a large crowd gathered to watch the water pagent and fireworks.
I picked up the girls and walked to Sydney Harbour Bridge. We had hoped to be able to make the climb over the bridge but the cost , the time and the weather detered us from doing it. Instead, we walked across it on the Cahill Walkway. The weather was brighter at this stage, and we did get a clear view of the harbour and beyond.
I briefly visited Cadman`s Cottage. The oldest surviving residence in The Rocks. It was built in 1816.
On the way back we lingered a while in the Craft Market at The Rocks, but we didn`t buy anything. The girls cases were already overweight and I can`t carry anything else.
The girls and I parted company this afternoon because they had to get on their Cruise Ship which is sitting in the harbour. I sat for a bit in Hyde Park enjoying a pleasant afternoon with no rain.
Today is Pam`s Birthday and she chose to spend it on Bondi Beach.
We jumped the Express Bus which took us the 8km to Bondi, but we found the beautiful golden sands were being whipped up by strong winds and stinging our faces. The turquoise waters of Australia`s most famous beach was not so blue. It looked grey and angry. Not many tough, tanned Aussie blocks around willing to plunge into the Pacific Ocean, either.
We walked around Bondi Beach to the Biddigal Reserve, Wally Weeks Tidal Pool, the Fiszman Park and back again.
Unfortunately, on the return journey I damaged my leg again trying to run out of the rain. I limped back to the City.
Sadly, I had to say goodbye to the girls because their Ship was to leave Port at 6pm bound for Melbourne. I waved them off then took a very slow walk back to my hostel.
I took a slow walk down to the Circular Quays where I visited the Museum of Contemporary Art.
I am generally not a lover of contemporary art but I wanted to see the work of Shahzia Sikander. Born in Pakistan in 1969, she studied painting in the Indo-Persian miniaturist tradition before relocating to New York in 1993, where she studied to develope a distinctive iconography referencing history, mythology and popular culture.
I really admire the delicacy of her tightly structured miniature painting. she has a great talent.
I was not at all impressed by the other artists featured at the Museum. I couldn`t understand there work.
I made my way to the Botanic Gardens to sit in the sun for a bit before making my way to the State Library to view a special exhibition entitled "Impact" a changing land.
I then picked up my backpack and made my way to the Central Station to get a train to Katoomba in the Blus Mountains, where I am going to be staying at the YHA for a few days.
The exhibition entitled "Impact" a changing land, tells the story of the European settlers in NSW and the impact they have had on the Australian environment.
The Austrlaians are very concerned about their environment and how the world`s weather systems are changing. They are committed in their efforts to preserve our very fragile world. I have seen this over and over again in my travels throughout Australia. Local Governments are working hard on public awareness and putting practices into place to minimise, or even aneliorate, the damage currently being caused by their environment.
Dr. Mary White said in August 2007 -
"There`s going to be massive change whether we like it or not - there`s just no time for complacency - any actions we need to take we`ve got to take immediately."
It feels much cooler after the tropics, but it isn`t raining which is refreshing.
Yesterday, my friend Edward picked me up from the station and drove me to my hostel, then back to his house for dinner. He has recently moved to Katoomba from Wentworth Falls. He and his wife are engaged in renovating their little Colonial House. They still have a lot to do.
I took a walk from the YHA hostel to Echo Point to view the mountains, especially the Three Sisters. From there I walked the Prince Henry Cliff Walk to Katoomba Falls. There must have been a lot of rain recently because the path was full of puddles.
I met 2 couples from England, one of whom now live in Brisbane. I went with them on the 500m Skyway Cablecar with a glass bottom for better views of the waterfalls.
Once on the other side I took the Scenic Railway to the bottom station. It is the steepest incline railway in the world; vertical drop is 250m, steepest incline is 52 degrees, length 450m, and the nature tunnel 80m.
In the Jamison Valley, I walked in the Rainforest to the Katoomba Mine, the Mining Village, to the Marangaroo Spring and the Rainforest Room. I saw some primitive and unusual trees, including the Blue Mountain Gum Trees that contribute towards the ever present blue haze that gives the Blue Mountains their name.
I eventually took the Flyway Cablecar 545m back up to the top of the valley, and took a slow walk back to the town and the YHA.
Today I walked again on the Prince Henry Cliff but in the opposite direction towards Leura. Leura is the next town.
Starting at Merriwa Street I walked along the cliff path to Echo Tree Looukout and the Flat top Lookout. The scenery was so beautiful it was breathtaking.
I walked back up the steps but I was getting a great deal of pain from my leg. One of the steps was to high and I pulled the muscle again. From then on I often had to crawl up the steps on all fours if they were to high. I was not going to be defected. The path was still extremely wet, with deep muddy puddles in places.
Going down was much easier than going up. Although, at one stage whilst trying to get down the steep, wet steps I fell and had to grab a passing tree branch in order to stop myself getting badly hurt. Still I continued on.
I went to Fossil Rock, Copelands Lookout and Bridal Veil Lookout where I viewed the waterfall. I met a photographer taking pictures of the waterfall but not from the bottom as he had hoped because the path had been closed. He had to make do with the magnificent views of the valley, instead.
I took the Roundwalk to take in views of the Laeura Cascades at a better angle. I kept going around the cannon to Bridal Veil View on the other side.
I decided to continue walking on the Gordon Falls walking path that was, I think, a harder walk around the cliffs instead of on top of them, but at Oympian Rock I had enough and climbed up to the road and continued my journey to the Gordon Falls, stopping at the Amphitheatre for a rest and take in the outstanding views.
Again I had more steps to climb down. I didn`t get much of a view of the waterfall but I did have a view of the back of the Three Sisters. They are not so good from behind.
I still continued on down the mountain to the Pool of Sitoam. This was extremely steep with lots of steps going down, I took it slowly, and at the bottom I had a better view of the Gordon Falls. It was a cool, clear pool. I was very hot and sweaty and would have loved a swim but had left my swimmers behind. I suppose I could have had a skinny dip but knowing my luck somebody would have come down the path.
Once down the bottom, I had to climb back up but this time I took the shorter climb to Gladstone Road in Leura. Once in Leura I found the shops to buy water and some lunch before making the long walk back to Katoomba along the Megalong Street. A very long hot hilly walk.
The weather was very kind to me, I felt I had to take advantage of it just encase it suddenly changed. The scenery along the way was unbelievable, I don`t think I will find anything as picturesque anywhere else. I have seen some awesome country in Australia but nothing as vast. It just spreads for miles and miles. Always with a blue haze in the background. God really was showing off when he made the Blue Mountains.
I decided to have a rest day. I got up late, then cruised around the antiques shops, secondhand clothing stores and boutiques of Katoomba. There were a lot of them, especially secondhand book shops. I have never seen so many old books. They must read a lot in this town.
I then strolled around on the Art Deco trail. I walked around the town spotting the legacy of its art-deco heyday, from the grandeur of the Carrington Hotel, the cosy Paragon Cafe to the small touchs on many of the cafe and shopfronts.
In the evening I wanted to see the Three Sisters illuminated. I walked all the way down to Echo Point to see the "girls" lit up. It was very quiet and beautiful with the dark valley below but not dark enough to illuminate the Sisters. I even walked down to the Giant Stairway whilst I waited for it to get dark, and took a closer look at them, at least one of them.
The sunset was colourful but I gave up on the Sisters, and walked back to my hostel.
It is Australia Day. Monday will be a public holiday, and there will be lots of celebrations throughout the weekend.
My friend, Edward and his wife Arabella, took me along with them to a speacial Bar-B-Q to celebrate their friend becoming an Australian Citizen after having lived in the country for 37 years. His wife and children are all Australian and now so is he. But, he says, it won`t stop him supporting Arsenal.
It stayed warm and sunny all day. The children played in the swimming pool. The adults talked, ate and drank all day.
I did have a fright, however, when a little spider jumped onto my shoulder and down the front of my top. So did he, when he fell out of the bottom, and tumbled all the way to the ground.
It was another warm sunny day, so I took the train to Wentworth Falls where I walked the enjoyable Charles Darwin walking track beside the creek. It took me all the way to the falls. Then, I took the challenging walk down the side of the Falls to the National Pass at the bottom. I walked on to the spectacular Valley of the Waters track on the opposite side. Here I experienced several waterfalls.
Along the way I came across several young families enjoying the afternoon walking together in the Wentworth Falls Reserv e. Two little boys were having fun bathing in the cool crystal clear water, and some not so little boys and a girl were enjoying wadding along the creek chasing freshwater crayfish.
The Wentworth Falls Reserve has views of the Jamison Valley and Kings Tableland, and is the start of a network of walks around the cliff top and in the valley.
Some of Australia`s most beautiful, pristine bushwalks and absolutely spectacular scenery, waterfalls and rainforest is found in the Valley of the Waters Reserve. It also has magnificent views, birdlife, butterflies and plants. I found a group of young people abseiling over a waterfall. I think they call it Canyoning.
At the end of my steep climb back up the mountain I found the Consevation Hut where I treated myself to a Devonshire Tea, before making my way back to the station for the return train journey to Katoomba.
I went on a tour to the Jenolan Caves. A German lady adopted me for the day which was good for me because it meant I had company.
The bus took us along country roads that wound in and out of the green pastures, beautiful homesteads, fresh mountain air and a rural ambience that set the scene to unwind and go back in time.
The Caves they say were discovered by an escaped convict, James McKeown, in 1838. One of his victims, James Whalan, tracked MCKeown for more than 32km into unexplored mountain country until, looking down through a huge rock archway, he saw a secret valley. McKeown was captured, then further exploration of the caves followed. Several caves have been found in the area since that time.
My new friend and I chose to go on a guided tour of the Lucas Cave. It contained the highest and largest chambers at Jenolan. It is also the location of the famous Broken Column.
The tour took us into the Cathedral Chamber which is 54m high. They regularly have concerts in this chamber. Deep underground, with the walls of solid rock, cocooned from outside noise, at a constant 15 degree temperature, it is a unique environment for the best acoustics in the world. The guide played "True Blue" to celebrate Australia Day Weekend.
We went on to visit the Bone Chamber with a wombat skeleton and the Exhibition Chamber where we saw the river running deep below ground. The Lucas Caves have more than 910 steps and the tour took one and half tours.
After lunch my friend, Barbara, and I had time to visit the free self-guided tour of the Devil`s Coach House and Nettle Cave. They are twilight caves which means they have an outside opening to the sunlight.
The caves geologists have found that the caves are 340 million years old, amongst the oldest in the world.
We saw some amazing shapes of rock, canapies, shawls, flowstones, thin, curly whickers and snake like formations. Some even say that the caves are haunted.
As it was a lovely, warm sunny day I decided to make a trip to the Everglades Gardens at Leura, the next village.
The Everglades Gardens are 13 acres of European style gardens and native bushland overlooking the Jamison Valley. There were stunning views, terraced lawns, winding paths, stone walls, pools, fountains, glades and an art-deco house with a tearoom.
The house was built as the Mountain Retreat of a weathy Belgian family in the the 1930`s. The designer was a Danish man names Paul Sorensen, an established garden designer and horticulturalist.
Whilst I was exploring the grounds, a bad storm blew over with thunder, lightening and hailstones as big as golf balls. They were bombarding me with such a false, I made a quick retreat to the house. I was rescued by a man named Peter who worked at the house. He drove me all the way back to Katoomba.
A heavy mist covered Katoomba all night after yesterdays storm, but it cleared this morning leaving another hot sunny day.
I intended walking down the Giant Stairway onto the valley below Echo Point. Instead, I sat watching the electrical storm that was taking place on the other side of the valley. It was very nosiy and the temperature dropped drasticly.
On the way down to the Point I visited the Katoomba Fine Arts Gallery, Dragonfly Dream needlework shop, Bowerbird Gallery, John Turner Photographic Gallery, Ameralia`s Plate Museum and the Chocolate Factory.
Consquently, by the time I got to the beginning of my walk it was looking dark and sinister. Needless-to-say I decided not to take the walk but return to the hostel. But, I didn`t manage to make it back before the storm was raging overhead, and when I did reach the hostel I found the storm had put out the electricity.
I was determined to tackle the Giant Stairway, so I made my way to Echo Point via Prince Henry Cliff Path, walking to the Burrabarro Lookout, Lomandra Lookout and Banksia Streamlet, where I found a tree had come down across the path. I negotaitated the tree in order to continue onto Honeymoon Point, Tallawara and Lady Carrington Lookouts, until I eventually reached the Giant Stairway.
I descended the 900 steps cut into the side of the cliffs of the Three sisters to Dardanelles Pass walking path below. Then, at the bottom, I caught my breath before proceeding along the pass to the Federal Pass and Leura Forest..
In the middle of the forest, I met Johnny, an Irishman who worked as a Doctor of Chinese Medicine in Dublin. We walked together for a while and climbed back to the Prince Henry Cliff track. It was a long hard climb. We parted company at the top.
Later in the evening I went to see the fim "The Edge", that tells the story of the unique and exquisitely beautiful Blue Mountain`s wilderness. It is an ancient magical landscape with magnificent and trecherous waterfalls, canyons and underground rivers that have remained much the same for 90 million years.
The mountain`s wilderness protects itself from the encroachment of modern society with a formidable barrier of 1,000 metre vertical cliffs. However, the impact of humans on the environment is great. One in four Australian species are classified "rare and endangered".
Despite these threats a bushwalker in 1994 found a grove of "dinosaur trees" believed to be extinct for more than 6 million years - they are known as Wollemi Pines, They stand 40m tall and they look like no other living thing. There is just about 40 trees in the known Universe.
I left Katoomba during a rain storm, taking the train back to Sydney where I booked into the YHA at Collaroy Beach, North Sydney.
Collaroy has a large golden beach with a Surfing Culture. Many people come to the area for water sports. There are several Surf Schools.
As I walked along the beach I found people surfing, diving, kayaking, canoeing, running, power walking, boxing and swimming. All I can say is that people in this area must be extremely fit.
I went into Sydney to met my friend Jane. Together, we went to the National Maritime Museum to see the exhibition about the story of Otzi.
Otzi, the oldest wet mummy in the world, died with an arrowhead in his shoulder 5,300 years ago.
There was a life size replica of him, with sound effects, holograms and interactive stations, revealing his fascinating life and times in the South Tyrol, Italy.
Later in the afternoon we went onto the Powerhouse Museum to view the Diana exhibition. It told the story of her extra ordinary life with video footage taken by her father when she was a child.
There were stories about her schooldays, her romance with Prince Charles, her marriage, her charities, motherhood and a collection of her wonderful clothes. There was a whole room given over to the book of condolence sent from all over the world.
We then went back to Jane and Peter`s apartment. Peter took us both out for a delicious Indian Meal and showed me a wonderful film of the trip we made together to the West Coast to Broome. It brought back some fun memories.
I stayed over night at Jane and Peter`s apartment in Crows Nest, North Sydney. During the night it had rained heavy and was still raining. In good Australian style we got up early for a swim.
Peter took us to the North Sydney Swimming Pool located between the Sydney Harbour Bridge and Luna Park. It had an Olympic size pool of which I could only manage 2 lengths. Jane kindly loaned me a pair of flippers and a float to enable me to do a few more lapse.
After breakfast of eggs, bacon and the largest cup of coffee I have ever encountered, we returned to Crown Nest and relaxed in their apartment hoping the rain would stop. It did stop briefly late afternoon but to late to go out. Jane drove me back to Collaroy Beach.
The rain continued. I sat around the hostel waiting for it to stop but it didn`t, so I decided to take the bus to Manly, anyway.
As I drove along in the bus on the flooded roads the water spray being thrown up by the bus`s wheels resched the top of the window. It felt like we were driving under a waterfall.
When we drove passed the Manly Lagoon I overheard two local men saying that they had not seen it so full since they were children. And they were not young.
Manly, has ocean beaches and little bays along which to stroll. It is one of Sydney`s Northern Beaches. I chose to walk from the Ferry Wharf along the West Esplande taking me passed the pool, Oceanworld and Museum, around Delwood Beach, Fairlight Beach to the Esplande Park at Cabbage Tree Bay. By this time I was so wet, even my trusty walking boots where letting in water.
I walked back along the same path. The path was part of the Manly to Spit Bridge Scenic Walkway. It was just to wet to complete the whole 10km walk and the panoramic views of the entrace to the Sydney`s North Harbour was bearly visable.
After purchasing a pair of new dry socks I took the bus back to the hostel.
It was only raining lightly when I left the hostel. I walked the 2km to the Narrabeen Lakes and Jamieson Park which are part of the Warringah`s Bushland. I only walked a short way into the bush because I was afraid there may be a storm.
As I walked into the forest, however, I was greeted by a little bird who flew down from the trees to greet me. He was so friendly I guess he is use to humans.
I returned to the the path that runs beside the Lake. There were only a few people around walking, a canoe and a boat on the lake. The boat was towing a water skier. But there were lots and lots of ducks waddling around looking for food from passers-by. The water on the lake was extremely still and quiet.
I walked until I found a nice spot to sit to watch the wide variety wildlife. Birds and ducks that I had never seen in the UK or Australia. It was so peaceful, I sat for quite a long time before moving further up stream to the Narreen Creek, where I found another quiet spot to relax and watch the ducks.
Towards late afternoon it began to come over very dark and sadly I got wet again.
I woke up to a sunny morning, so I hot footed it to the bus which took me to Palm Beach. It is the beach they use for the "Home and Away" TV serial. It is a beautiful golden beach with a good surf, a row of Norfolk Pine Trees standing to attention along the seafront, with lots of very expensive looking houses.
I sat on the beach watching the surfers before making my way to Govenor Phillips Park, where I climbed up to the Barrenjoel Lighthouse. It was a hard climb but stairs cut into the rocks made it a bit easier. There were also many puddles along the way because of the volume of rain we have been experiencing lately.
At the top, I found not only the lighthouse, but also the grave of the first principal Lighthouse Keeper, George Mulhall. The son of Irish parents who came over to Australia on a Convict Ship. He was born in 1811 in Australia. Married with several children, his eldest son was assistant Lighthouse Keeper. George died in 1885.
I returned to the beach at Barrenjoel Head via the Smugglers Track. I walked back to the boathouse where I saw the seaplane take off for Sydney Harbour. Then I continued my journey walking down to Palm Beach Wharf at Pittwater Park.
It was a hot, sunny day. I took the bus back to Collaroy and arrived just before the storm.
The day started out sunny but sadly it didn`t last long. I took the ferry from Manly Wharf to Circular Quays. A journey of approximately 30 minutes.
I got good views of the Harbour, the Sydney Harbour Bridge, Sydney Opera House and the skyscape of the City. As the ferry moved towards Circular Quays I saw a Battle Ship just leaving the harbour with its sailors dressed in their whites, standing to attention around the ship as it left, several ferries went by and sailing vessles with their sails flapping in the wind, even a little penguin swimming around looking for fish. I also saw some black clouds building up over the City. The storm started to rage as soon as I arrived.
Never-the-less, I still set out on a self-guided historical walking tour of Colonial Sydney. Starting at Custom House and finishing at Millers Point.
The Custom House was built in 1844, and looked after all shipping issues for 145 years. It is now a library with a very busy reading room full of Australian Newspapers, and a glass floor under which lies a model of the City.
This weekend is the beginning of the Chinese New Year. The year of the "Rat". The Custom House had two exhibitions. One entitled "Chinese Diaries" a video and photographs by Liv Xiao Xian. It was a visual diary of her trip to China in 2002-2004. The other was entitled "China Dreaming", with photographs by Olivia Martin-McGuire of a country changing.
I continued my historic journey by going to Bulletin Place, the old newspaper area. Then I walked passed impressive government buildings, onto St Patrick`s Church, the traditional heartland of Sydney`s Irish working class Catholic community. The old residential Sydney area of Cumberland Place and Susannah Place. The archaeological dig across the road. Then under the Bridge to Observatory Park for views of the harbour and whares.
On I went to old St Brigid`s Church School, Lord Nelson Hotel, the old village shops and townhouses to the old Garrison Church. From here I walked back towards the Rocks, viewing the Cast Iron Urinalon along the way to Dawes Point/Terra under the bridge, where I saw some extremely wet people returning from their Bridge Walk.
I decided it was now to wet to continue, so I made my way back to the hostel on the bus. It was rush hour and crossing the bridge was much like travelling during rush hour in any big city.
I had a slow start today, so I took only a short walk. I walked the nearby Greenlink track starting at Griffiths Park. I walked to Long Reef Beach and on to Dee Why.
Here, I saw surfers enjoying the wild looking waves and a lone fisherman, fishing from the shore. I thought he looked as if he wasn`t catching any fish but when I looked into his bucket, it was full to the brim. someone is going to have a satisfied belly tonight.
I had a free day in Rotorua. I went with Garry, a fellow traveller, to visit the Museum. It told the story of the dramatic past of Rotorua. The Museum was formally the Bath House. Although, it stands as one NZ`s most iconic heritage buildings, it is still unfinished after 100 years.
It was once a famous spa which offered thereapeutic treatments. Water from nearby thermal springs was piped to private bathrooms and longer Aix-douche massage rooms. There was also deep pools for the treatment of chronic disorders.
The land was given by the Ngat Whakane people who owned the land. The Baths were built in 1908, and attempted to create a spa in an essentially Elizabethan style.
In the basement under the building could be seen all the pipes which serviced the baths. On the first floor it was possible to dicover why people came from all over the world for treatment.
There was a 20 minute film introducing the great stories of Rotorua and a simulated earthquake.
There was a gallery about the legendary figures of the Arawa Poeple. Another telling about the eruption of the Tarowera Mountain and the lost village.
In the afternoon another travelling companian, Ellie, and I walked to the beautiful Whakarewarewa forest to see the magnificent towering Californian Coast Redwood trees.
Jane picked me up from the hostel early so we could go together on a self-guided tour of the Sydney Port area of Pyrmont and Ultimo.
We started by walking across Pyrmont Bridge to Darling Harbour. The bridge was once the main route West out of Syndey but it was closed to motor traffic in 1981, it was saved from demolition and now carries the motorail and pedestrians.
The Darling Harbour complex was formerly the Rail Line and Good Yards. With the growth of the Wool Industry, and construction of Woolstores, it was an important area. By the 1980`s, however, there was a down turn in wool and the area was redeveloped.
Star City - Pyrmont Power House, the site of the first electric street lights in 1904, is now the site of the Star City Casino, theatres, hotel and restaurants.
Darling Island was separated from the mainland by mudflats but the area was reclaimed to handle wheat and coal shipments, with wharehouses and rail links. In the 1950`s it became the area where post war immigrants set foot on Australian soil.
We visited the site of the Swimming Basin, a popular meeting place for residents of Pyrmont and Ultimo. From here we went onto the Ways Terrace Flats, a group of 1870`s houses in Scott Street, the Quarry Sites of Pyrmont Sandstone, and onto the War Memorial at Harris Street, the historical pubs at Bridge Street, and the old Woolstores and houses in Goldsborough and Ultimo.
We finished our tour at the Powerhouse Museum and made for the shelter of Paddy`s Markets. It had been raining very heavily all morning and we were both very wet by then.
Later we visited Queen Victoria Buildings to view shopping from the upper end of the market.
Jane and I made our way into the City early to watch the Chinese New Year Parade. (Peter was working all weekend). It was a very colourful and happy event that went on for at least an hour, the parade was that long. Apparently, 80,000 people lined the route to watch all the various Chinese organisations file past. I think every Chinese organisation in the whole of Sydney must have taken part.
Later, we moved onto the Botanic Gardens and Government House, where we managed to get a free guided tour.
In the Botanic Gardens we saw a young Wollomi Pine, several flying foxes, and visited an art exhibition of Linocuts by Rachel Newling, who gave us a rather large glass of wine.
I went by bus to Canberra for a few days. Firstly, I took a tour around the wonderful shops after which I decided to walk to Pariament Hill.
It was a long walk, everything in Canberra is spread out. I walked via City Hill, Commonwealth Avenue Bridge, passed the State Library to Parliament Drive. In the park I found several tents and an Aboriginal Rally about the forthcoming governement apology for the ordeals of the Stolen Generation.
I returned via Acton Park, walking beside the lake. It was a hot sunny afternoon.
I awoke to find that the sunny weather had disappeared. It was raining very heavily and didn`t look as if it was going to stop. Fortunately, I had booked a tour which took me first to the Australian War Memorial Museum.
The museum had exhibits, memorbilia and models of all the battles Australian Servicemen had take part in during the seven conflicts in which Australia have been involved. It also has a very impressive Hall of Memory.
There was a special exhibition of Lawrence of Arabia and his interaction with the Australian Light Horse Infintry.
From here we went to visit Captain Cook`s Memorial Jet in Central Basin which commemorates 200 years since Captain Cook`s landing in Australia, and we also drove passed the State Library, Treasury, Old Pariament Building`s, stopping at Pariament House.
We were taken on a tour of Pariament House which was open by the Queen in 1988. We were not able to visit the whole building because it was a very special day. A couple of hours prior to our visit the new Paraliament with a new Government was opened by the Chancellor passing through the main door with a continency of Aboriginal Dancers. It was the first time this had happened in Australian History.
Although, we were not able to get into the House of Representatives we were able to get into the Senate. The Australian Pariament have 76 Senators, 12 from each of the 6 states + 2 from each of the 2 mainland territories. They are elected for terms of 6 years, with half retiring every 3 years.
The House of Representatives have twice as many memebers as the Senate. It is usually 150, serving up to 3 years, after which elections for a new House must be held. The party that wins a majority of places in the House of Representatives forms the Government.
Today, there was a parade of Armed Forces to welcome the Governor General into the House. I managed to get up to the top to see it despite the enforced security. I simply walked up with a group of policemen who never tried to stop me.
We were then taken to the Old Parliament House that was used between 1927-1988. I was able to visit all the rooms in this building. It had a lot of history of Australian Government . It also had several offices of the formal Prime Ministers and Senators as they were when they left them. I was also able to visit the old Prime Minsters Office, Cabinet Office, Speakers Suite and office workers offices as they were in bygone years.
The National Portrait Gallery was also housed in the Old Parliament Building.
We were taken for a tour of all the Embassy buildings in Canberra before going the last Museum for the day. The National Museum of Australia which was a very different building. It was very modern and forward thinking. It was more about the Aboriginal People, their way of life and struggle for recognition.
Today was the day that the new Australian Government said "Sorry" to the Aboriginal People for the way previous Governments have treated them, especially the Stolen Generation.
They were taken away from their Aboriginal mothers and sent to live in Roman Catholic Missions to be educated like the White Settlers.
This took place in the Parliament House this morning. It was televised onto big screens in the Garden of the Old Parliament where the Aboriginals have a Tent Embassy. Several of the Stolen children were invited into the House to hear this apology, but many more were outside to listen to it. It was a special and very moving moment for all of them.
The speaches started at 9am but I just missed that part because it took longer to walk to Parliament Hill than I tought, but I got there in time for the Party.
There was a Concert of Indiginous Bands, Dancers and Singers. Some big bands turned out for the occasion. There was also a very moving speech made by Auntie Ruth Bell, a Elder of the local Indiginous People. A 72-year-old Stolen Child herself, she made an official "Welcome to Country", had a one minute silence for the all the Stolen Generations and read a very moving poem entitled " It tomorrow never comes".
It is hoped that this "Sorry" by the Government will bring all the people of Australia together.
I returned to Sydney after three remarkable days in Canberra, when another chapter in Australian history was made.
On Monday, the Aboriginal Peoples Rally at their Embassy Tent outside the Old Parliament House.
On Tuesday, the opening of Parliament with a New Government which included Aboriginal Dancing in the Ceremony. Never been allowed to happen before in Australian history.
On Wednesday, the Government Apology to the Aboriginal People for the way they have been treated by previous Governments, with special reference to the Stolen Generation. An extremely moving day. Then, the wonderful Concert and Party that followed.
I couldn`t have chosen a better time to visit Canberra, and it was all co-incidental for I was quite unaware of what was going to be happening when I organised the visit.
And to make the visit even more enjoyable, as I entered the Internet Cafe, I bumped into a fellow traveller from Norway whom I had previously met somewhere along the way. It is always good to bump into people you think you will never see again. Just shows you what a small world we live in.
Today, I left Australia for two months in New Zealand, starting in Auckland. I was sad to leave Australia because I had to leave behind not only a beautiful country but also lots of lovely friends with whom I had become close.
Australia is a vast country with an amazing variety of places to see, and I gave it my best shot at seeing, learning and experiencing as much of the country as I could in the time available to me.
I managed to visit every state of Australia starting in Victoria in July. Then I went to Tasmania, Western Australia and the Northern Territory where I stayed in Darwin for a while. I went back to Western Australia to see friends in Perth and Kalgoorlie before going to South Australia and back to the Northern Territory to go to Alice Springs.
After this , I flew back to Perth to visit South of Western Australia, and to pick up my luggage from my friends, before travelling over to New South Wales where I spent 6 weeks travelling the East Coast up to Cape Tribulation.
I then went back to Sydney to meet up with my Sister before going to the Blue Mountains. Finally, off I went to the Territory of the Capital, Canberra. A truely awesome experience.
It rained most of the time. It rained in places that rarely have rain, but I guess in a way it was fortunate because if it was as hot as it is usually in this country, I would never have been able to do a lot of the things I did. It would have been much to hot for instance for all my long walks. I walked so much I should have loss heaps of weight, but for my passion for Australian "Jelly Beans".
People often ask me what was my favourite place? It was difficult to choose because everywhere was amazing, but I think I liked the Outback the best. It is very different from anything else I have ever experienced, but I think the Whit Sundays, the Blue Mountains and a place called the Breakaways in South Australia (or it might have been Northern Territory) and the Cathederal Gorge in the Bungle,Bungles were all very special.
The Australian People made me very welcome. Several of them actually invited me into their homes, and I would to thank Carole & Dave in Perth, Kerry & Bear in Kalgoorlie, Margaret & Neil in Brighton, Edward & Arabella in Katoomba, and Jane & Pete in Sydney for taking me in and looking after me, I do appreciate your help and kindness.
I would also like to thank Marc (Rainy) and Chris in Adelaide for their support whilst I have been travelling around the country.
Now I am in Auckland, New Zealand and it`s raining !!!!!!!!!
I did one of my self-guided walking trips of Downtown Auckland starting with the Town Hall, where there was a Craft Fair in the Aotea Square behind it. I couldn`t resist a tour around the stalls.
I walked along Queen Street as far as Customs Street then walked east to Emily Place ( I had a bit of trouble finding the correct road - the signpost was confusing).
At the top of Emily Place I took the steps in the reserve to Princes Street passing Hyatt Regency Hotel.
The Govenor-General`s former residency, the MClaurin Chapel, and the Maidment Arts Theatre all form part of the extensive Auckland University.
I strolled through Albert Park. It started to rain heavily but it was only a shower. In the Park I found a fountain, several statues and sculptures of interest.
I then walked downhill back to Queens Street to the Civic Theatre which opened in 1929; the Arabic designs inside were eye-catching. Outside a Scottish Pipe Band played.
From here I walked to the Sky Tower but I decided not to go up today. Instead, I walked along Federal Street, through St Patricks Square until I found Hobson Street and walked towards the America`s Cup Village, built in 2000. I found a Dragon Boat competition in full swing. The sun was shining by this time.
Several teams of rowers were taking part in the race, and they all took the racing very seriously. The boats were very long with a dragon`s head at the front and a drum on which to beat out the strokes for the rowers. I`m not sure exactly how many people were in each boat (about 20 - 30 ), it seemed quite a lot. Usually, 3 or 4 boats raced against each other at one time. People of varying ages took part. Some were very young, others quite old. I didn`t stay around for the final.
I walked instead around the dock area watching various types of boats come and go. I saw the Harbour Bridge in the distance, and walked through the grounds of the Hilton Hotel, a complex that was designed to look like a Cruise Ship. There was an interesting glass swimming pool on the roof.
On my return journey I came across a Street Carnival where I stopped for a while before continuing back to the hostel.
I spent the whole day at the Auckland Domain. 50,000 years ago it was the slopes of a Volcano. The hill, which overlooks the cricket ground, is called Pukekavoa and it was here that Te Wherowhero, a great Maori Chief from Waikato came to make peace with the feared Nga Puhi tribe in the 1820`s. He became the first Maori King.
The City of Auckland was established when Lt Governor Hobson met with Ngati Whatua tribe on the hill in 1840. When forming the City, he reserved 200 acres around the cone and this became the Auckland Domain.
There were several European designed gardens, bush tracks, duck ponds, fountains, a number of artworks, statues, memorials scrattered around the park. It also had a Wintergarden with temperate house heaped with flowers, a tropical house full of exotic plants and a fernery.
Built on the crater of the volcano Pukekawa is the Auckland Museum with three floors of galleries.
The ground floor tells the story of the Pacific People, Maori, Pakeha and the Peoples of Oceania. It has some beautiful carvings and complete Maori buildings. The Maori People are great carvers, with each tribe having their own style.
The first floor level is devoted to NZ`s natural history, and the top level is the War Memorial with galleries telling the story of the NZ`s Wars.
Many young families were out enjoying the grounds, the birds, the sunshine and a picnic.
I jumped the free Stray Bus for a City tour.
It took us first to the Sky Tower where one of the passengers won a 192 metre jump from the top of the Tower. It is 328 metres high with 1700 stairs. It takes 40 minutes to climb. So I think my fellow traveller had the easy option.
We drove around the City being shown and told about the various places of interest. We crossed the Harbour Bridge, visited the American`s Cup Village.
We then viewed the volcano Mt Victoria, North Head and Rangitoto from the Lookout at the Monument of Michael Joseph Savage, the first Labour Prime Minster. After which we walked down to Mission Beach where I chased the big Seagulls around with my camera.
We were taken to the top of Mt Eden, with its 50 metre deep crater, for panaramic views of Auckland. It is the only place where theTamor Sea and the Pacific Ocean can be seen at the same time.
After lunch in a pub we were taken back to our hostels.
I took the ferry to Davonport. It is a historic seaside village just across the harbour from Downtown Auckland. The marina village has some pretty Victorian villas, sandy beaches, stylish shops and great cafes.
The real reason for going to Davonport was to climb to the top of the volcano Mt Victoria and then North Head. Neither, volcanoes have been active for many years, and not of any real concern, but nearby Rangitoto is worrying to the people of Auckland.
In the Auckland Museum I found an extremely informative exhibition about the Volcanoes with an un-nerving simulation of what to expect if it should suddenly erupt.
The two volcanoes I visited had some interesting old defence fortifications which were put into place should the Russians have attacked. Mt Victoria had a disappearing big gun, and North Head several tunnels with historic defence structures still in place.
It was a warm sunny day, I sat for a long time at the summit of Mt Victoria looking down over Davonport and Auckland. It was very peaceful. North Head didn`t have the same feel, however.
Today was a day of churches. I started the day by strolling through the Domain to the Parnell area. I found first St. Mary`s Church, next door to the Cathedral of Holy Trinity. It was a most impressive wooden church.
The Cathedral was a strange mixture of old and new, with several unique stained glass windows. The central window features a Polynesian Christ and striking Pacific motifs.
After spending time in each, I walked to Dove-Myer Robinson Park where the beautiful Parnell Rose Gardens are located. The park had views of the harbour.
I climbed the hill to St. Stephen`s Chapel, one of Auckland`s first churches. The chapel had an old cemetary and lovely gardens. I sat in the garden`s enjoying the sunshine.
Later, I strolled back to the charming-colonial style village. The atmosphere and character makes it a popular spot. On the way I found the Roman Catholic Church of St. John`s and Hulme Court.
Hulme Court, built in 1843 for Sir Frederic Whitaker (later Premier), was briefly Government House in 1850`s.
I made a tour of the stylish shops before making my way back to the hostel via the habour.
I left Auckland on the Stray Bus making for the Bay of Islands in the North.
We headed out over the harbour bridge through the scenic coastal towns of Orawa and Waiera before stopping for coffee at Warkworth. Then we travelled on until we reached Pakiri Beach and the Goat Island for snorkelling in the Marine Reserve. I didn`t go for a swim, I went for a paddle in the rockpools instead.
We continued cruising up the east coast. It is mainly an hibiscus tree area, including the Pohutukawas the NZ Xmas trees.
We went through the Scottish area of Waipa. We then stopped at the Whangarei Native Bird Recover Centre to see some of NZ`s native birds which included a Kiwi chick and a talking Tui called Whoof-Whoof.
We arrived in Paihia late afternoon where the group had a Bar-b-Q. It was a lovely warm sunny day.
The weather changed drasticly over night, it had turned extremely windy and wet. Today, we were to head for the top of New Zealand.
The first stop was at the mighty Kauri forest in the Puketi Forest and walked along the broadwalk called Manginangina, which was built for Queen Elizabeth`s visit in 1999.
We made our way to Cape Reinga, the pointy bit at the top of NZ. It over looked the meeting place of the Tasman Sea and the Pacific Ocean. (Pacific means peaceful - not this day).
Legend has it that it is the departure point for Maori souls back to their spiritual homeland Hawaiki. The Pohutukawa tree, from which the souls make their final leap grows out from the face of the Cape.
The Lighthouse has a very powerful light. The wind here was so strong because of the storm, that it was almost impossible to stand on our feet. In fact, several times I was nearly taken off my feet. The rain beat into my face and we all returned to the bus soaked through.
We travelled onto the Te Paki Sand Dunes for sandboarding. I decided to give it a go but it was a disaster. I came off the board at about 70mph. It was difficult enough climbing the 85 mtr high dune with the high winds and rain. I had to climb it twice because the wind blow the board out of my arms and I had to retrieve it. So when I finally got to the top I was exhausted and wet, all I wanted to do was get to the bottom. The rain makes if faster. I hit a bump that sent me flying head first into the sand. I was lucky I didn`t break my neck. I got a lovely black eye, however.
We then drove along the 90 mile long beach, which is actually only 64 miles !!!!! We saw a lone seal on the beach.
We stopped at Doubtless Bay for a fish & chip supper before making our way back to Paihia.
The bad weather continues with very high winds and rain. I have been told that it is the trail end of a cyclone that has travelled over from the top of Australia. So the rain is still following me. All activities and tours were cancelled.
I had been booked on a Dolphin Discovery Cruise but instead I took a taxi with a friend to the Waitangi Treaty Grounds. The birth place of the NZ nation.
In January 1840, Captain William Hobson on behalf of the British Government and 43 Maori Chiefs debated and signed a treaty to put the country under British Sovereignty. by September, 500 chiefs had signed it making it the Nation of NZ.
We left the North on the afternoon bus taking us back to Auckland, where I manger to met up with Andrea and Birgit. I had met them on the way to Broom some months ago. They were in Auckland for a few days.
I jumped the bus again heading this time for Hahei. We started the day by going to the top of Mt Eden to have a last look at Auckland.
We then headed down the mountain, South toward Waikato and across the Coromandel Peninsula. We stopped at the colonial town of Thames.
Here, I went with a friend to explore the town. I found some interesting old buildings, a minature railway and a bird hide.
It was raining very fine rain, the kind that makes you really wet, by the time we reached Hahei in early afternoon.
A group of us went walking anyway, to the Cathedral Cove. This took us past limestone caves and cliffs to one of NZ`s most beautiful beaches.
On the way back to the hostel we visited Stingray Bay, Gemstone Beach and Hahei Beach. We all got back soaked through and fought for the showers.
We headed back over the Coromandel Rangers and down into Waikato. This is a dairy farming area.
We passed around Hamilton, the fourth largest town in NZ, before heading for Raglan. Our first stop this morning was the huge Twin Kauri trees not far from Hahei. We travelled on to Paeroa where they make the famous L & P Fizzy Drink, then to Morrinsville for lunch.
We stopped in Raglan for a few minutes to take a look at the torquoise blue sea before going to our Lodge resort in the hills overlooking Whale Bay.
Most of the group went either to Surf School or on the beach. I chose to go Bush Walking alone. Most of the walk was uphill and very slippy because of all the recent rain. I got quite a long way up Mt. Keioi when I met a young man from the Netherlands who was staying at the same lodge. We walked together for the rest of the walk.
In the evening a group of us went to the Vic Hannam Lookout to watch the sunset and see the glow worms, then we went back to the Lodge for a Sauna.
We had a very busy day. We left Raglan for the Waitomo Caves, the largely uncharted network of caves, created by water running through the soft limestone.
At the caves the group went off to do various activities. I chose to go on a Glowworm Cruise. We drove through the countryside to visit two different caves. An underground river to take a close look at glowworms, to discover how they look and live. There was a large colony. We floated in a raft on the black underground river in the dark for about 40 minutes with only the glowworms for light. It was like looking at a night sky of twinkling stars.
We then drove to a dry network of caves to explore "The Cave of the Spirit". We searched for animal bones and found the skeletons of cattle, sheep and a Moa.
I visited the Waitomo Cave Museum whilst I waited for the rest of the group to come back from their activites. I met Garry on the way, he was one of the Stray group, who had been walking. We explored the Museum together.
In the afternoon we had to make an emergency stop at Kiwiana to allow a member of the group to visit the hospital with a spider bit. I didn`t know there were dangerous spiders in NZ?
Later, we went on to Makatu through the Kiwi Fruit Planatations to a visit a Mari (??Spelling), a Maori Meeting House, where we were to spend the night as guests of the Chief, Uncle Boy.
We were welcomed, given dinner, entertained by a group of young dancers. The men were taken away to learn to dance the Haker, and the ladies were given dancing lessons by the girls. Then we had to perform our dances. It was real good fun.
The Maori People retired leaving the group to make a bed on the floor of the Meeting House.
We were awaken by Uncle Boy playing his Abba music. We said a fond farewell to Uncle Boy and the Maoir People after breakfast and headed for Rotorua. We dropped several people off at Hells Gate for white water rafting.
I went straight to Rotorua for a more gentle foot spar in the Park, and viewed the hot bubbling mud. There was a strong smell of rotten eggs - which is caused by sulphur which is caused by the thickness of the earth`s crust leading to a lot of geothermal activity.
The strong Maori culture, the boling mud pools and shooting geysers make Rotorua a big tourist destination. Some of us walked from the Thermal Park to the wonderful turn of the century Government Gardens with its magnificent gardens. We stopperd for tea and scones. It was like walking back in time.
This morning Ellis and I slept in, then spent the morning in the hot swimming pool. We couldn`t believe how hot it had become over night with the water being heated from below. There was steam coming off it. It was like a very hot bath. We spent all morning chatting, dangling our feet in the pool with the odd swim when we got cool.
Ellie left on the afternoon bus leaving me the only member of our original group remaining at the hostel, that was until the next bus came in.
In the afternoon I went on a heritage walk around Governement Gardens viewing the Ancestal Carvings, Prince`s Arches, Wyline Monument, the
Te Runango (Meeting House), Tawharakurupetic Site of a great battle, Malfrey Geysers, Blue Baths and the Gardners Cottage etc.
As I walked away from the Gardeners Cottage, my attention was drawn to a mans voice that I thought I knew. I reconised his face but couldn`t quite remember where I had met him. (I have met so many people whilst travelling). I walked on then remembers it was the father of my friend Edward who lives in Katoomba in NSW, Australia. His father, it turned out was on holiday with his wife, brother in law and friends. It was great to see them again and I spent the rest of the day with them. If I had walked that way five minutes before or five minutes later, I would have missed them. It really is a small world.
I was to have jumped the bus at 8am heading for the East Cape but it had a late start. The door of the bus had broken and had to have an emergency repair. By the time it left Rotorua the sky was black with low lying clouds. At our first stop for supplies in Opotik it had started to rain heavily and continued for the rest of the day.
We made our way to our overnight stop at Maraehako Beach Resort in Whanarua Bay. We were scheduled to go kayaking but weather conditions (despite the rain), lovely views of the bay from the Macadamian Tree Orchard. Even the drive was made from the shells of the nuts.
We spent the rest of the day around the Robinson Cruiso style hostel on the seashore. Just after dinner the electric failed because of the high winds. The owner lite a bomfire in the yard and everybody clustered around singing songs whilst trying to keep dry.
The rain and wind continued all night. In the morning we had to walk our packs to the top of the hill because it was to steep and dangerous for the bus to get to the top with a full load.
First stop was at the Anglican 100 year old church at Raukokore. We then made for Araror where the East Coasts most easterly lighthouse is situated. Here we saw an enormous NZ Xmas Tree - Te Waha a Rerekono which is 600 years old.
On our way to our next destination we learnt 2 Maori songs which Jason, our Maori guide, told us we would have to sing for the people of the Tikitki Church. We practised hard, but when we reached the church, which was built in the memory of all those Maori Warriors who died in the World Wars, there was no one there. He was playing a joke on us, and he managed to persuade the guys they had to take off their shirts to perform the Haka.
We sang our song in the beautiful Marori Church for the ancesters of Jason who had died in those wars. It was very moving.
From here we made our way to our overnight hostel at Tokomaru Bay. It was a romantic setting, the town itself was a crumbling town with sweeping cliffs and a famous surf break (Toko Point). The hostel, Brian`s Place, had commanding views of the bay.
We went down to the old jetty to jump into the sea. I was the photographer again. We were taken for a walk in hills to see Brian, the owner of the hostel, horses and cattle, then to visit his friends fish farm. It was fun and interesting. We also saw a rare NZ Hawk.
In the evening we viewed the sunset and looked forward to the sunrise over the bay in the morning. This is the area where the sun rises the earliest.
We all got up at 6pm in order to catch the sunrise over the most easterly Bay. It gets the sun first but, unfortunately, there was too many clouds.
Our first stop was at the Tolaga Bay Wharf, 660 mtr long. We walked to the end of the wharf where a fisherman pointed out two King Fish swimming around . One of them was enormous.
We drove on to Gisborne, population 45,000. They produce fruit and vegetables. Most being shipped around the countryside but some does make its way abroad.
European settlement was established in 1831 and the town was named after the Colonial Secretary of the time.
The group split up here, half went Rocksliding in Rere, which requires sliding down a rock on a board into the water. As I got a black eye the last time I tried to slide down a sand dune, I opted to go to the Museum. However, I fell down some steps and sustained a nasty injury to my bad leg. It may have been safer to go Rocksliding.
The Museum had a good selection of Maori treasures. An exhibition of Famous Faces, Photographs of then and now (in the 1800`s and present day), Activities Around the Sea with the "Star of Canada" reconstructed Captains Cabin and Wheelhouse and a Memorial to the Maori Warriors who were killed fighting in the World Wars, several of whom were ancesters of our Guide, Jason.
We went to the Mara Gallery of Maori Contemporary Art, and to the Cidery for Cider Tasting.
In Gisborne they had an earthquake at Christmas and several of the buildings were damaged, so there was a lot of rebuilding going on.
It started to rain heavily and we got wet. We jumped on the bus again. It returned us to Rotorua where we had a good end of tour party.
I joined another tour going to Taupo. It didn`t leave until the afternoon so I took a walk into town first. It was raining by the time we left town.
On the way we stopped at the river for a hot swim at the Nai-o-Tapu Thermal Wonderland. My damaged leg began to sting so I didn`t stay in long. It was really strange. There were two streams, one stream ran cold and the other stream was piping hot. You had to find just the right spot.
The bad weather conditions stopped the sky Dive.
The Sky Dive was off again this morning but they let us do the trek.
The Tangariro Alpine Crossing is an extending trek over steep vocanic terrain. It begins and ends at different points. we didn`t leave until late so it was essential that we kept to a strict schedule.
We started at Mangatepopo Valley road end, off State Highway 47. From there a well marked track up the Mangatepopo Valley follows a gentle gradient to Soda Springs. It was a steep climb up to the Mangatepopo Saddle between Mt Tongariro and Mt Ngauruhoe. Poles head the way across the South Crater to the track`s highpoint at Red Crater (1886m), a still active and steaming vent. Beyond Red Crater the track passes Emerald Lake and skirts Te Wai-Whakaata-o-te Rangihiroa (Blue Lake). From here the route descended to Kitetalu Hut and skirts the nearby springs down through native forest to the car park. The total distance is 18.5m one way. (6 hours trip).
The weather was changeable, we got some rain and wind when we walked in the clouds but mostly it was warm and sunny.
Weather has changed to warm and sunny which is a bit of a shame because we had a long bus ride into Wellington.
We headed round the mountians to Ohakune. a great little ski village, also known as the `Carrot Capital` of NZ. The Mt Ruapehu (2797m) and the Whangaehu Glacier looked stunning as we passed. We travelled on through the towns of Taihape, Levin and Otaki. The scenery was spectacular. We arrived in Wellington 4pm.
Louise, my travelling companian, and I visited the Te Papa NZ`s National Museum. It had exhibitions detailing NZ`s precarious position on the tectonic plates, exhibitions about the birds and marine life, cultural history, a contemporary marae and a copy of the treaty. It was open until 9pm on a Thursday so we had time to have a good look around.
We had an Indian Meal and said goodbye to Stuart our tour guide and the group.
The Central City of Wellington is jammed between hills and the habour so it is relately small. It is known as the windy city. The wind is channelled through the Cook Strait, which is the only gap in the 1400km chain of mountains. The City is located on a major fault line. The habour is a large crater.
I took the Cable Car to the Upper Hills where I visited the Cable Car Museum, then entered the Botanic Gardens to walk back down to the City.
The gardens were established in 1868. They cover 25 hectares and have a unique mixture of protected native forest, conifer planting, and plant collections with major seasonal floral bedding displays.
On the way down I visited the Bolton Street Memorial Park, a Historic Cemetery. Then I strolled through the grounds of Parliament. I popped into the Wellington Cathedral of St Paul and the State Library. Then I walked onto Oriental Bay, passing various activities taking place for the Arts Festival. I then climbed to the Mt Victoria Lookout where I got views of the harbour and surrounding mountains.
I went on a tour of the New Zealand Parliament Buildings. The complex comprises four buildings, Parliament House, The Beehive, the Parliament Library and Bowen House.
Parliament House houses the Opposition Members of Parliament and some Government Members.
The Beehive is the Executive Wing, housing the Prime Minster and Cabinet Ministers.
The Library is for the use of Government Members only.
Bowen House, houses the remainder of Government Members and Opposition Members.
The tour started with a film that told a bit about its history. We were able to visit 8 different sections of the complex because it was Saturday and the restoration work had just finished last week. The Library has had two serious fires, both caused by electrical faults (1907 and 1992). It has been restored to its original state.
The NZ Governement have only a House of Representatives, the Legislative Council (like our House of Lords) was abolished in 1951.
They were also the first country to give women the vote in 1893.
After the tour I visited the Old St. Paul`s Church, and the family home of the distinguished author and short story writer, Kathleen Mansfield (1888-1923).
I took the train to the other side of the harbour, to Hutt Central Station. I walked into town to visit the NewDowse which has an array of creativity - from the world`s best design to work by NZ`s extraordinary jewellers. Photography, fashion and ceramics were all on display.
I briefly visited the nearby Town Hall where I found an Ethnic Food & Cultural Festival taking place. I moved on taking in the modern St. James Anglican Church, Central Library, Little Theatre, and then crossed the road bridge onto the Hutt River Walking Track.
The track runs from Upper Hutt to Petrone`s Hikoikoi Reserve. I joined it at Lower Hutt. The track resembles an early Maori foot track which ran alongside Te Awa Kairangi (Hutt River). I came across many young Maori families out enjoying the Sunday afternoon sun shine, and lots of fishermen.
When I reached the Pretone Esplanade I visited the Settlers Museum where I watched a film about the history of the early settlers to the area, and the hardships they had to endure.
I walked to the end of the jetty then on into Pretrone to get the train back to Wellington.
I visited the New Zealand Archives in order to view the "Treaty of Waitangi" Documents. The first Maori chief to sign was Hone Heke on 6 February 1840.
The documents were saved from the fire that burnt the Government Offices in Offical Bay, Auckland in 1841, the documents were held until 1865 in an Iron Safe in the Colonial Secretary`s Office, first in Auckland and later in Wellington.
It was found that whilst in storeage the Treaty sustained further damage by water and rodents. After this the documents were stored in a specially constructed metal container in the Department of Internal Affairs strong room.
In the Constitution Room I found all the country`s important documents from the Waitangi Treaty, all the bits of legislation that followed to the Women`s Franchise Petition of 1893, with 31,378 signatures, nearly 25% of the total female population. This resulted in NZ becoming the first country where women won the right to vote.
There was also an exhibition of oil paintings from the National Collection of War Art.
It was a lovely warm sunny afternoon, so I decided to take the Cable Car to the top of the Botanical Gardens but I didn`t walk directly into the Gardens, I walked instead into Kelburn Village, then onto Karori, passing through the quaint little Marsden Village along the way.
Karori is quite a large town high up in the hills. I just can`t imagine what it must be like to live in a house with so many steps to climb just to reach ones front door, but I guess its normal for them as the name of the school might indicate - "Karori Normal School".
I took the morning ferry to the South Island. It was very cloudy when I left Wellington with strong winds. I found a lovely lady named Jane from Christchurch in the UK who was travelling to Christchurch NZ via the ferry and train. We sat together on the sundeck in the incredibly strong wind until a member of the crew forced us to go inside until it passed. The scenery as we approached Picton harbour was magnificent.
I said goodbye to Jane and picked up the Stray Bus making its way to the Abel Tasman National Park. Our first stop was at the Hunter Vineyard for Wine Tasting, then Nelson, Motueka, Marahau and the Park. The scenery was unbelievable along the route, it was truly awesome, or as the Kiwi`s say "Sweet As"!
I had a walk and sail day with four young women from the Stray Group. We started by walking the stunning coastal path between Marahan and Anchorage Bay (3-4hours).
It was an invigorating walk through lush native forest with magnificent views of the coastal paradise along the way. The weather was a pleasant warm and sunny, with a breeze to keep us comfortable.
Once we reached Anchorage Bay we had lunch, basked in the sun on the beach for an hour before getting on the Catamaran for an adrenalin rush as the strong breeze which had come up, took us surfing the waves. We were also able to sail in the shallow waters to tour the wonderful sandy bays whilst we sat back unwound and relaxed.
We saw two fur seals sitting on the rocks on Pinnacle Island, and we saw the Split Apple Rock before returning to Kaiteriteri where we were picked up and transported back to the farm where we were staying in cabins.
Old MacDonald`s Farm is where I am staying on the edge of the Abel Tasman National Park. It has natural forest towering above it, and it is a working farm with many different kinds of animals.
My group left today but I decided to stay on one more day to explore some of the bays I saw on my trip yesterday, without the time constraints.
I started the day going to the Art Unique Gallery to view their beautiful wood carvings. Then I walked the coast track visiting all the little bays on the way to Appletree Bay, which is half the distance we walked yesterday. Each bay was different.
I visited Porters Beach with the little hidden lagoon, a haven for ducks. Tineline Beach with its walk through cave. Coquill Bay where I had a steep climb down beside a little creek, and quiet secluded beach at the bottom with soft golden sand. And Appletree Bay with its lagoon which was being fed by the streams running down from the top of the mountains, its little strip of beach between it and the sea. I sat for a bit relaxing reading, basking in the sun and listening to the sounds of the sea. It took 3 hours to get there but just over an hour to get back.
The bus headed south through the Buller Gorge to the West Coast, which stretches for over 600 km. We stopped in Marchinson for lunch before continuing on to Foulwind Bay to see the Seal colony, then walked the Truman Track before reaching Punakaiki to view the famous blowholes and Pancake Rocks in the Paparoa National Park.
Our stop for the night was at an historic hotel (an old gold mining pub) in Barrytown just south of the National Park. It was a most beautiful spot along the coast set beside a rainforest overlooking the sea.
We had a facy dress party, and I got to meet some of the local Kiwi people who came into the pub for a drink.
We didn`t leave Barrytown (not really a town more like a street ,only one and a few houses), until early afternoon so whilst some tof the group were either sleeping off the night before, or bone carving at nearby workshop, I went down to the beach greenstone hunting. Greenstones are thought to be spiritual in the Maori culture. I found lots of interesting stones but not greenstones. (Greenstones are meant to find you, not you them - so there was not a greenstone that wanted to own me).
The bus left Barrytown in the afternoon making its way passed Greymouth, Hokitika, Ross and HariHari, all once thriving gold mining towns that are now struggling to survive.
We made our way to Franz Josef township which is another little place set in the rainforest. It contains little more than a couple of cafes, a gas station, supermarket, internet and the wonderful Franz Josef Glacier.
I went for a short walk along one of the tracks with Helen from the group. It was dark by the time we returned and we had both forgotten to bring our torches. Not even the glow worms were out to light the way for us. But we managed to make it to the nearest bar.
I took a full 8 hour day hike on the Franz Josef Glacier. It was an awesome experience. It took us into superb scenery, deep in the heart of the glacier. The excellent step-cutting skill of the guides allowed us to travel through the most spectacular and challenging glacier terrain imaginable. We went into the most amazing ice fields.
From its origins high in the Southern Alps the glacier descends deep into the lush rainforest of Westland National Park. We started the trip at the Glacier Centre were we were supplied with all the necessary equipment then driven to the Glacier, and spent at least 5 hours of the 8 actually exploring the glacier, going through the tiniest of crevasses. It was a wonderful day with hot sunshine all day. I returned with a suntan.
The weather changed drasticly over night, the beautiful sunshine had changed to wet and very cloudy. We didn`t see much of the Fox Valley, glacier or Lake Matheson.
We travelled through Bruce Bay where the 3.2 million acres of Bush begins, but we didn`t see much of that either, becuase of the low lying clouds. But we did get to see the biggest trout I had ever seen at a Fish Farm where we stopped for coffee.
We stopped for a photo shoot at Arnold`s Point (Knights Point). It was named after a dog belonging to one of the men who worked on the Haast Road.
The road follows what was a track used by Maori who wandered over the West Coast searching for greenstones. The road was started in 1929 but not finished until 1965.
We crossed NZ`s longest bridge over the Haast River, then stopped for lunch at Haast Township before negotiating the Haast Pass, which is thought to be the most remote wilderness area that can be driven in NZ.
We stopped for a short walk at Thunder Creek to view the Falls with their 30 metre drop, then again for a swim in the Blue Pool.
Our overnight stop was at the Makarora Resort. The area use to be a key saw mill area, supplying timber to the Otago Goldfields. By the time we arrived the sun had come out giving us a glorious afternoon and evening.
We drove along the shores of the beautiful lakes Hawea and Wanaka. We were to stop briefly in the town of Wanaka but I liked it so much I jumped off the bus for a few of days.
I wanted to spend the afternoon on a lake cruise but it was fully booked so I went for a walk instead. However, the short walk along the scenic track to the Clutha River from Lake Wanaka turned out to be a 4 hour round trip. The scenery was awesome, though.
It was difficult to believe that it is Autumn in NZ. The trees are beginning to change colour and rosehips are in abundance, but the bright sunshine is so hot.
Another warm sunny day but with a bit of a wind to cool it down. I decided to walk around the bay in the opposite direction to yesterday. I walked the Wanaka Millenium Walkway.
The walkway is a 5km track along the shore of Lake Wanaka. It features stiles and several picnic spots at small sheltered beaches. Along the way there was three interpretation signs for sites of historical importance such aso Slaughter Creek, Ironside`s Hill and an overview of the geography of the area.
Parts of the track boarders a Nahoanga Site of importance to Kai Tahu ( the Maori of the Southern Region). It is their designated camping area.
The track runs along the lakeside terraces, and it provides continuous and changing views of the lake and the surrounding moutains, landscapes and beaches.
The walkway ended at a bay with lots of interesting rocks, including the greenstone I had been searching.
I spent a relaxing day around the lake. The weather continues to stay warm and sunny, although the wind is stronger today. All the people with whom I had been travelling have moved onto Queenstown.
This afternoon I took a cruise around the lake on a boat with a group from another more up market travel company. It took us towards Waterfall Creek and Glendhu Bay. We passed Ruby Island and the Peninsula. We viewed several of the mountians and Rob Roy glacier on our way to Stevenson Island.
At the Island we got off the boat in order to explore with a guide, the 65 hectar Conservation Area. It is only 11km from Wanaka and 200 metres from the mainland - a distance that deer and stoats can easily swim. The vegetation is mixed Kanaka Shrubland.
They are trying to reintroduce the Buff Weka (a bird) who use ot roam the area extensively but not now. Need -less-to-say we didn`t see any wildlife mainly because there were to many people from the boat tramping the track.
Upon return to the boat we were given afternoon tea on the beach before making our way back to Roys Bay.
At Easter Weekend in Wanaka they hold the Warbirds International Airshow, and for the past two days planes have been flying over the lake applying their trade.
Over 60 aircraft from WW1, WW11, fighters from Korea and jets of Vietnam will be attending the show and almost 100,000 people.
Although, the planes appear to be flying low over the lake they still only look like little birds in my camera, so I decided to climb to the summit of Mt. Iron in an attempt to get a better view of them.
Mt. Iron is the highest elevation, 545 metres above sea level, in the immediate vicinity of Wanaka township. There were panoramic views of Lakes Wanaka and Hawea, the Cardrona Valley, Upper Clutha Valley and the moutains of Mt. Aspiring National Park. But, the planes were still to far away and looked very tiny, but I could see them perform their aerobatics in the sky from afar.
Opposite the beginning of the track was the Stuart Landsborough`s "Puzzling World". It was an amazing place with its giant two story high maze, its puzzling cafe, Roman style toilets, unique illusion rooms, crazy buildings and a clock that works backwards.
On my journey back to town I came across a really weird looking ram sitting on the roof of the local cinema, a giant pair of walking boots and a hand bigger than I. Wanaka is a puzzling place but it is very beautiful.
It had been raining all night and there were still some low lying clouds hanging around when I left Wanaka on the Stray bus. We were heading for Queenstown.
Our first stop was at the fruit and vine growing area of Cromwell. The old town of Cromwell was flooded when they made Lake Dunstan.
The next stop was at the Kawarau Suspension Bridge. It was originally built in the 1880`s to provide access to the goldfields around Lake Wakatipu. It then fell into disrepair and was deemed unsafe, until two men applied for a one month license to use the bridge commercially for Bungy Jumping in 1988, so it became the location of the World`s first full time commercial bungy operation. Four of our group jumped from the bridge.
We continued our journey through the magnificent rugged Kawarau Gorge to Queenstown.
Queenstown is known as the adventure capital of New Zealand, because of its amazing array of activities to set your pulse racing.
Originally it was a goldmining camp in the 1860`s. It lies nestled on the shores of Lake Wakatipu, backed by the rugged peaks of "The Remarkables" mountain range.
Today, I wanted to go on the Gondola to the Skyline Chalet and walk back but they wouldn`t sell me a ticket. I could only walk up and get the Gondola back I was told. So I walked up and walked down again.
I started by walking the One Mile Creek track to the Powerhouse, followed the old pipeline up to the dam, then took the other One Mile track, then the Ben Lomond track. This track took me through a splendid mixture of exotic beech forest, with alpine tussocklands at the higher section. Parts of this track were very steep and dark. When I reached the clearing where the tracks separated I decided only to go as far as the Skyline Chalet.
At the Chalet I found a cafe, giftshop, a luga track, paragliding, bungy jumping, the gondola, mountain bike tracks, ski lift and beautiful views of Queenstown Bay, the Remarkables and surrounding area.
It was another sunny day and a lovely venue to just sit, relax and watch all the people doing their adeneline rush activities. Climbing to the Chalet and down was adventureous enough in itself.
I had an early start, the Dart River Safari bus picked me up for the first part of my Wilderness Adventure tour. We drove beside Lake Wakatipu to Glenarchy.
Glenarchy is dubbed as the "Gateway to Paradise". It is the launch pad for some of the finest hiking in the world. The Mt Aspiring National Park with the famous Raiteburn, Greenstone, Caples, Rees and River Dart Valley walking tracks all starting there.
Glenarchy and the nearby town of Paradise, became part of the Middle-Earth for the film "Lord of the Rings" trilogy film. The stunning locations of Lothlorien, Amon Hen, Orthanc, and Isengard are all in the region.
We saw some of these locations on our second part of the tour on the 4wd bus ride on the back roads, into the wild, untamed and unique mountainside sanctuary of captivating beauty. We went deep into the heart of glacial valley, into ancient forests with towering snowy peaks and waterfalls of Mt Aspiring NP.
Our Maori guide told us about his ancesters, the wildlife, plants, trees, countryside and showed us an old Maori camp. He then took us to meet our Jert Boat which was to take us for a ride for an hour and half .
Our journey took us down the intricate network of braided river channels that shimmered from show-stopping turquoise to opalescent blue, at high speeds iof up to 80 mph, dodging the bolders as we went, often spinning around and spraying water everywhere.
We made our way back from Paradise to the head of the might lake Wakatipu where we had lunch in the sunshine before returning to Queenstown.
I had another early start to make the journey from Queenstown to Milford Sound upon the Stray Bus. Breakfast was at Te Anau on the shores of Lake Te Anau in unspoilt scenery and crystal clear waters which were amazing.
The Fiordland NP of 3 million acres is the largest National Park in New Zealand. The steep, jumbled topography, rugged coastline, dense forest and challenging climate make it difficult for developement of roads and towns. It has been made a World Heritage Area.
They began building the Milford Road in 1930, and it was not completed until 1954because of the Homer Tunnel. The tunnel has an unlined floor and slopes towards Milford with a 1 in 10 gradient. Avalanches are common during Spring and Winter.
The scenery was majestic along this road and even more so as we cruised through the fiord towards the Tasman Sea and back, passing several waterfalls, snow capped mountain peaks, and fur seals basking in the sun.
After the cruise we made our way back along the Milford Road then onto Tuatapere, our over night stop. We arrived just after 7pm then some of us went on to have supper at the Waiau Downs Sheep Farm.
The tour of the sheep farm was probably the best 25 dollars I have spent in NZ. The town is built on the River Waiau and said to be the Sauage Capital of NZ. Consequently, we had sausages for supper before going in a cart pulled along by a Quad Bike to the sheep sheds.
We met some of the 3,500 sheep currently on the farm. In summer it has 7,000 sheep in total dropping down in winter months. We met the sheep dogs, their puppies, feed the lambs from a bottle, and had a go at separating them in the pens and sheering them.
Ray, the farmer showed us the current Sheep Sheering Calender. (They have obviously seem the film "Calender Girls".
We took the ferry to Stewart Island from The Bluff near Invercargill. Not all the group went to Stewart Island some stayed in Invercargill, the southern most city in NZ. The crossing was very calm. The weather continues to be warm and sunny.
Once we checked into the hostel, 3 of us went for a tramp around one of the coastal tracks on the Halfmoon Bay to Horsehoe Point Loop (2 -3 hours). It was a beautiful afternoon with magnificent views of the little bays.
At one stage, however, we found ourselves having to wade across the creek, unfortunately, I got wet and my mobile was in my pocket. I was only using it for the time. Now , I no longer know the time or day of the week!
Upon our return from the walk we made straight for the pub where we stayed until it was 10pm and time to return to our chalet. In the distance we could see the Southern Lights.
All my fellow travellers left early this morning leaving me alone in the chalet.
85% of Stewart Island is conservation land with a small community mostly of fishermen, clustered in the township of Oban. A large part of the island is a bird sanctuary, so the bird life is amazing.
Being in the most southern region Stewart Island gets long daylight hours in summer, but generally low temperatures, annual shunshine and the highest amount of rain days. And my lucK ran out with the weather. The sunshine turned to rain today.
However, I did go for a tramp in the rain. I walked the Fuchsia and Raroa Walkways. Then from Watercress Bay to Paterson Inlet where I joined the Ryan`s Creek Track but had to turn back because the track was to wet and muddy for me to continue safely alone. Instead, I took the road to Golden Bay where I picked up the track to Deep Bay.
The Ringaringa Beach had also been closed due to unsafe cliffs, so I took the Halfmoon Track through the forest, back to my chalet where I built a huge fire to dry out.
Still raining today. I had a quick whiz around the Rakiura Museum in the morning, then picked up the Paterson Inlet Cruise Boat which took me to some of the bays I had not visited, as well as those bays to which I had managed to walk. I also learnt a bit about the local history, and marine life.
At Ulva Island we were taken off the cruiser for a guided walk around the island to view the wildlife and plants. In the old days the island was the site of the first Post Office. When the mail arrived a flag was raised up a pole and the settlers would row over to collet their mail. Today, it is an Open Island Sanctuary. It is predator-free and many bird species, and plants can live peacefully.
I was still dark when I left to make my way to the wharf for the ferry back to the mainland. The sun was just beginning to rise as I left, and it was very colourful.
We took the Catlin Coast Heritage Trail to Dunedin. We found a Gypsy Fair as we were leaving Invercargill and stopped to take a look. One lady told me she had been travelling with the fair for 8 years. And I thought a year was a long time!
We drove onto Waipapa Point were we found a sea lion flapping around on the sea shore, and some interesting shells.
The Catlin`s take their name from Captain Edward Cattlin who regularly carried exports to Australia and purchased a huge tract of coast and interior from the Maori in 1840.
We drove on through green farming land to Curio Bay where there is a fossil forest from the Jurassic period, and the nearby Porpoise Bay where Hector`s dolphins often swim, but not today.
We also went to Nuggets Point at Roaring Sea Beach in the hope of seeing the Hoiho, or yellow-eyed penquins but they didn`t come out to play either.
From here we went to the township of Milton and Dunedin where it was raining.
Dunedin is the fourth largest town in NZ. It was developed and first settled by Scottish immigrants and is know as the Edinburgh of the South. The Scottish influence can still be seen everywhere.
I awoke to a blue sky so I went out early in order to see the sights before the bus left town mid-morning. I managed to get to the beautiful Otago University Building, the Railway Station, Settlers Museum (not open because it`s Sunday), Town Hall, Court House, Prison, Cathedral, several churches, Speight`s Brewery and a tour of the Cadbury`s Chocolate Factory. A busy morning!
On the way out of town the group walked up the the steepest street int he World, Baldwin Street, with a 1 in 1,266 gradient. We then made our way back to Queenstown.
I don`t know how many miles I walked today but it feels like a long way. I started out to walk the Frankton Arm Trail from Queenstown (Frankton is the town at the head of Lake Wakatipu). It was a wide, flat track beside the lakeshore. There were numerous small beaches with overhanging trees. There were also good views of the Remarkables.
When I reached the town I crossed the Falls Dam on the Kawarau Bridge to the other side of the lake and kept walking along the Kelvin Peninsula to Kelvin Heights. The only way back was to retrace my footsteps, so I turned around and walked back. It took me about 7 hours.
I met a Welsh teacher on holiday, who walked part of the way with me. We stopped frequently to admire the handsome plants and trees.
My poor feet thobbed all night!.
I got on the Stray bus again today. It was going to Christchurch but I was only going as far as Twizel.
From Queenstown we drove back through the Lindis Pass with its tussock covered hills which links the MacKenzie Basin with Central Otago.
A flock of sheep caused havoc on the road when they escaped from their field, running around until they found another field with sweeter looking grass. There must have been about 100+ of them. It was a bit of a laugh!
I was the only person to jump off the bus at Twizel, mainly because it is an expensive area in the Mt Cook region, with very little budget accommodation.
Twizel is a small town, a popular holiday destination in both winter and summer, and this week is the Maadi Cup Challenge, a rowing competition.
The basin is a treeless landscape but it has been changed by conservation and pioneering settlers with their homestead shelter belt and windbreak plantings. I walked the 3 hour town greenbelt trail via the Domain, rivers edge, and forest. It was very pretty with some fine trees.
Winter is just around the corner here in New Zealand. I awoke to a heavy frost this morning. I was pleased I had bought the woollen gloves from Farmer Ray in Tuatapere.
I took the Connect Bus to Mt. Cook village. I was the only passenger. Bill, the driver took me the 45 minute journey from Twizle, along the shores of Lake Pukaki with its beautiful turquoise coloured water, stopping twice so I could take photographs of the "Lord of the Rings" Battle Site, and at the Mt. Cook Lookout. We then followed the Tasman Braided River up to the Hermitage and Sir Edmund Hillary Alpine Centre, where he dropped off.
I took the 4 hour return Hooker Valley Track which took me to the spot of thje original Hermitage Building, built in 1884 but abandoned in 1913 after it was damaged by floods.
I then walked up to the Alpine Memorial Site, with the names of all the people who have lost their lives on the mountains. The track took me onto the Mueller Lake, across two swing bridges over the Hooker River, with the Mt. Cook Range on one side of the valley and several glaciers on the other.
Mt. Cook is the highest mountain in NZ at 3,754 metres tall, and the Tasman Glacier being the longest glacier. I walked as far as I could along the shore of the Hooker Lake until I came to the foot of the glacier. In the lake their was a large boulder of ice slowly melting. The lake was white in colour with all the rock dust or glacier milk as it is often called. I sat down to eat my lunch beside the lake before returning back to the village along the same track.
There were many people on the track today, it turned out to be a very warm sunny day after the cold start. I was so lucky!
It wasn`t until early afternoon that I realised that it was my birthday. I guess I am trying to forget them now! I was on the Stray Bus making my way to Christchurch when I made the discovery, but I kept the information to myself.
I was picked up at Twizel, an hour late, but the sun was shining so I basked in the sun on the grass outside the Information Centre, whilst I waited.
On the bus, as it made its way to Christchurch via the beautiful torquoise blue Lakes Pukaki and Tekapo, with a stop at Geraldine for lunch, I received a call from the Stray Office in Auckland, saying that a lady was trying to contact me, but at first I couldn`t even remember the lady. We had met only briefly on a boat on lake Wanaka, I discovered later, when I rang her. She said she was interested in my trip and wanted me to keep in touch with her and her husband to let them know how I got on. I was a bit overwhelmed by the fact that she should be interested.
When I reached Christchurch I made my way to the Cathedral where I attended the Choral Evensong. It was very memorable, and a lovely way to celebrate my birthday, I thought.
Again I was on the Stray Bus making my way down to Goose Bay, Kailkoura, where because of the deep water sea canyon the seals sit on the rocks right beside the road.
Kailkoura - means `meal of crayfish`. It started as a whaling station and you could say that it still is - although now people come to see the whales rather than catch them.
I went with a group from the bus on the Whale Watching Boat. It was very exciting as we whizzed across the sea trying to hunt out the whales. We did manage to have 3 sightings of Sperm Whales. They were magnificent creatures.
The Sperm Whale is the most common in the area but sometimes other species are also sighted, but not today. We did manage to see about 300 Dusky Dophins who were really good fun. They were very playful.
There are about 79 species of whales and dolphins in the world and about 34 of these have been sighted in NZ waters, over half of these in the waters off Kailkoura, so it is a really cool place to go if you are interested in marine life.
The rain caught up with me today, but I didn`t let it stop me walking to the Kaikoura Peninsula to see the Fur Seals.
I had several sightings, some close up and others from the cliff tops as I walked the track over the penisusla. I learnt a lot about the history from the information boards along the route.
Kaikoura has a strong whaling history, and an excellent spot for marine life who now have protection.
I finished my cliff top walk at South Bay and then made my way back to my hostel via two walking tracks through the forest and over farmland. One track was dedicated to a man who lost his like in 2003 trying to save the life of a whale.
Today, the bus wound its way up the rugged coastal roads to Picton where the group split up. I chose to get off the bus at Picton on the Marlborough Sound for a couple of days.
I dropped off my backpack at the YHA and made for Queen Charlotte Sound by walking the Snout Track where I got commanding views of the Sound and neaby mountains.
First, I made my way to Bob`s Beach where I sat on the black sand to eat my lunch, before climbing to the cliff tops for the walk to Queen Charlotte`s Lookout . Bob was a fisherman who use to visit the bay in the old days so they named the beach after him.
At the Kaikoura YHA I found a little bit of advice to travellers which read "The World is a book, not to travel is to read only one page of that book. I think I have managed to read a few pages of that book within the past few months.
I have now finished my travels with the Stray Bus and started thinking about the next chapter on my book.
Essons Valley is in the Marlborough Sounds region with some pretty walks through the forest or bush as they call it here. It had been raining heavily during the night and some very black clouds were still hanging around. I decided to go on one of the tracks, anyway.
There are two dams in the area with tracks going in different directions. The more difficult Barnes Dam Track or the Humphries Dam Track. I decided I had better take the easier one to the Humphries Dam.
Yersterday`s track to Queen Charlotte Sound was challenging but this one ws a `Stroll in the Bush`. Although damp, windy, a bit slippy with all the fallen leaves (it is Autumn), and with high bluffs, it was pleasant. The sound of the birds singing, the river running beneath and the smell of the trees made it an enjoyable walk.
When I returned to Picton I went to the Cinema to see "Two Days in Paris". Earlier I had visited the Edwin Fox Museum, connected to the ship of the same name, which is the 9th oldest ship in the world. Built in 1853. I also visited the old Picton Railway Station built in 1875 and designed by the famous George Alexander Troup. No! I had never heard of him, either.
The day started off wet and cold. I took myself off to the internet to pass the time whilst I waited for the train to arrive from Christchurch.
The Tranzcoastal train travels from Christchurch to Picton, then back every day. I decided to take the train in order to get a different perspective on the coastal route. I travelled up on the Stray Bus which wound around the hills, the train goes through the hills giving a different view of the breathtaking scenery.
Once out of Picton, we crossed the Wairau Plains to Blenheim, then we went over the Dashwood Pass to the coast. Spectacular views of the Pacific Ocean breaking onto rocky outcrops on one side - and mountains on the other.
Kaikoura is world famous for its whale watching. The Continental shelf is within a km of the coast and strong underwater currents create an upwell of rich nutrients which attract the whales. Next it was onto the lush farmland of North Canterbury and across the braided Waimakariri River.
Finally, we glided past the suburban gardens of churches before arriving at the Christchurch Railway Station.
The journey took over 5 hours. They say there were 21 tunnels and we crossed 175 bridges, but I didn`t count.
The coast was the highlight. But there were also spectacular views of long stretches of farmland, grassy plains, rolling hills, the vineyards of Marlborough and a magnificent sunset.
I was out on the road early checking out the historic buildings in the City.
Early Scottish settlers William and John Deans successfully started farming in the Riccarton area in 1843. Four years later John Godfrey and Edward Wakefield established the Canterbury Assn. whose plan it was to found a Church of England Colony that looked "just like home". Christchurch was named after godfrey`s former college in England.
In 1850 the first Canterbury Pilgrims arrived, followed by others. By 1856 Christchurch had become a City, making it the oldest in NZ.
Within 60 years the settlement was thriving with distrinctive buildings in the Gothic and Revival inspired styles favoured in the late Victorian and Edwardian times.
Many of these beautiful buildings still stand today. Some are in need of care but most of these grand buildings, however, have now become restaurants, hotels and shops. It doesn`t seem right somehow.
I found myself at the entrance to the Botanic Gardens so I walked beside the River Avon which wound around the gardens. I visited the Water Garden, NZ Garden, Rock and Heather Garden, Conservatory, Central Rose Garden and stopped at the Cafe for morning coffee.
The Cafe is obviously were the ladies of Christchurch meet up with their friends. I came across a group of grey haired ladies who were going for a hike in the gardens, suitably dressed for the occasion and equipped with hiking sticks. I had to smile to myself, I could have done with a set of their hiking sticks to get me up the Devils Stairs during my Tongariro Crossing.
Later, I met up with their men sailing their Model Yachts on Lake Victoria.
I moved on to the Canterbury Museum where I found lots to interest me. The historical Costumes, a Victorian Street, the Bird Hall, Maori Galleries and most of all the Antarctic Heores Exhibition.
The men that explored the last great wilderness and lost their lives as they tried to conquer the freezing land with inadequate clothing, food and equipment. It made me shiver to peer into the huts of the first Antarctic Explorers. They were very brave me.
I then visited the Arts Centre where amongst the cluster of heritage buildings it is possible to find specialist shops, cafes, restaurants, galleries, working artists and artisans, cinema, theatre, buskers and an art school.
I ended my tour with a visit to the modern Art Gallery which was to modern for my taste. I much prefer the more conventional style of art.
I had a full day and I enjoyed it much more than I thought I might, and it was a lovely warm sunny Autumn day. Not many of them left I fear. It certainly has a feel of winter in the air late at night and early in the mornings. Still I will soon be moving on.
Had an early start in order to get to the airport for my plane to Auckland. In Auckland I had a 3 hour wait for my connection to Nadi, Fiji. As it was a nice sunny day I decided to find a park bench in the sun.
The only bench I could find was occupied by a young man from the Netherlands, sitting it out until his plane the next morning. I sat for a bit exchanging travel experiences with him. I then went off to spend the last of my NZ dollars before boarding the plane.
I was disappointed when I arrived in Nadi. I expected blue skies and lots of sunshine but what I got was grey skies and lots of rain. Even the pilot of the plane missed the runway first time and had to fly around the island for another attempt.
There was still confusion at the Resort over my booking. The computer booking said that I wanted 8 beds for 8 nights when I only asked for one. The Resort was fine about it , but now I have got to try to get my money back from Hostelworld. Nothing`s easy!!
The sunset. however, made up for all the disappointments of the day. It was magnificent, possibly the best I have ever seen.
Viti Leva is the biggest of the 330 Fiji islands, 106 of which are permanently inhabited. It is home to many bustling market towns and Fijis Capital Suva.
Vit Leva also has a range of beautiful scenic spots, from pristine river gorges, to vantage points that look across volcanic mountains to the blue Pacific Ocean.
This is what they tell me, but unfortunately, the weather is against me again. There were a lot of black clouds in the sky and rain in the afternoon. Smugglers Cove, my accommodation, is situated at Wailoala Beach, Nadi Bay, near the airport. It is not the cleanest beach in the world but the hostel is good. The hostel , called "Pirates", is part of the Resort and the backpackers have use of all their facilities. It is clean and comfortable.
Unfortunately, I`m not good at inactivity so I was a bit restless. I must have walked in every direction during the day, but none of them took me very far. I really need to find somebody to share a taxi into town.
I met some friendly little kids on the beach, however, who all wanted to show me their diving abilities. They reminded me of the playful dusky dophins in Kaikoura.
The day started sunny but humid. I walked towards the next beach where I saw local people fishing from the beach with a net.
Three men walked out to sea with the net between them. They only walked as far as the water reaching their chest, stood there for 10 minutes before dragging there net back ashore with enough fish to feed a large family.
As I watched the fishermen, a German tourist joined me. We exchanged travel experiences for a while. He had been travelling for three years so he had lots of tales to tell. He invited me to join him on a visit to Lautoka, the sugar capital of Fiji. I was glad of a change of scenery, so I joined him.
We had to walk to the Main Road, about a 20 minute walk to get the bus. The bus was a bit of a culture shock for me. It was very old, very crowded and very hot despite the glassless windows. It was quite a long journey, mainly because of the clapped out gear box and the bad road conditions. But the scenery was interesting.
When we reached Lautoka we found they everything was closed on Sundays. All we could find open was the Ice Cream Cafe in the centre of town. Whilst eating our ice cream and jelly the heavens opened and we had a really bad storm. We discovered that it was as wet inside as outside because of the number of leaks in the reef.
We got on the next bus returning to Nadi. Then when we reached my friend`s hotel, a short walk from where I am staying, was flooded. He came to have dinner at my hotel before going back to wade through the flood water to get to his room.
I ventured into town on the bus because I was bored with sitting in the hammock and walking the same beach. It is only possible to get past the river at low tide in the evening.
The visit to the town was interesting to say the least. I found that I stood out to much with my blonde hair and fair skin. I couldn`t get far without being bothered by street sellers and con-men.
I was soon dragged into a Tourist Art shop, with other tourists to a Kava ceremony which was suppose to welcome us to the country.
Kava is their native drink which looks like muddy water, drunk from coconut shells, and I have to say it tastes like dirty water with a minty, ginger taster that makes your mouth go numb.
I came out of the shop eventually a few dollars lighter. All the products were made by the Navala Villagers who still live in the hills in traditional Fijian huts.
I only had enough time left to get back to the bus station to catch the last bus going back to the resort at 5pm.
Today, I thought I would walk around the river to the next beach, so I took to the road. The road goes passed a rainforest with lots of pretty wild flowers. Not many people walk this road and the ones driving passing by thought I was mad taking photographs of flowers. Many did stop to ask if I needed a lift and couldn`t understand when I said "no".
As soon as I got to the beach, I was stopped and told that the beach was not safe for me to walk alone because it is a local beach, not for tourists. I was arguing with the taxi driver when a young Fijian girl came to my aid.
The girl, Ranadi, and I ended up spending the day together. She came with me on a bus ride to the country villages which went into the "Garden of the Sleeping Giant". The gardens are famous for the large collection of orchids and tropical plants.
We continued along the dirt roads mingling with sugar cane, cropping and market gardens. We shared the road with farmers, villagers in bright mumus, cattle, chickens and children walking home from school.
My friend then took me to her village of meet her husband and small son. They were humble farmers and charming people.
I took a tour of Suva, the capital city of Fiji, which is on the opposite side of the island to where I am staying.
It is a harbour city that sits on a hilly peninsular on Viti Lerv`s south eastern corner. It is multi-cultural, the largest city in the South Pacific with a population of about 247,000 people.
Suva is also home to the country`s largest market and has a thriving textile industry. Many of Fiji`s key institutes, University of the South Pacific, Fiji School of Medicine and Fiji Museum are found here. It is also the political and administrative capital steeped in colonial history.
After lunch in a posh restaurant, most of the group went shopping, but I chose to visit the library and other colonial buildings, including the Roman Catholic Cathedral. Whilst I walked around this part of the city I was left alone, but as soon as I went to the shopping area, I was hassled. I quickly found the young Australian girls from my group, thinking there was safety in numbers, but not the case. So we found a "Starbucks Coffee House" to wat until it was time to meet the tour bus for the return journey.
The journey was a pleasant one going along the beautiful coast road, passing all the little villages as well as the smart tourist resorts, rainforests and swaying sugar cane fields.
It was a long journey. I started out before 7am and didn`t return until after 6pm, but it was interesting and informative.
I went on a 4wd safari into the hills to the village of Navilawa. It was like stepping back in time on this journey of exploration. The trip started at the foot of the famous Mt Batilamu and headed up through the fertile Sabeto Valley, in the North of Nadi.
At the head of the mountains head the road became a winding track and followed the beautiful Sabeto River. The final destination was the picturesque and peaceful Navilawa Village inside the Koroyanitu National Park.
The track had very steep bluffs on one side. At one stage a 4wd on its way to market came in the opposite direction which was interesting but eventually they found a way to pass.
Men on horses, cattle, oxon and a mongoose ran across the road, also farm workers all passed us as we travelled on up the mountain track.
When we finally reached the village the guide took us off for a trek in a rainforest. He pointed out the plants and trees that the villagers use for food and medicine.
We went to the natural cave used during cyclone season, and then to the beautiful waterfall and water hole, where some of us went for a swim.
When we got back to the village, the villagers welcomed us to a `seruseru` or Kava ceremony and lunch.
It was peaceful, picturesque village and lovel simple people. As the guide said "the people love each other and get on well together. It is only the government that don`t".
Today, I was to have been going to my Fijian friend, Ranadi`s village, to help celebrate her son`s 2nd birthday. Unfortunately, I never made it. By the time I managed to get into town I missed the connecting bus, and it was too late in the day to wait for the next bus. My last bus back to my resort is 5pm.
Instead, I went to the Nadi Market with another English Girl from Derby, who was staying at my resort.
It was Market Day. Many of the sellers were farmers who had come down to town from their market gardens in the hills, to try to sell their produce. They will stay in town for 2 - 3 days sitting on the floor of the market, on grass mats, with their produce piled up in front of them. They will sit there for hours for just a few precious dollars.
Whatever money they collect will go towards supporting the whole of their village. Their culture is one where they support each other, they are one community, like a commune.
As, my friend, and I walked around the town we were stopped several times by men telling us to go to the market, not the High Street. The shops there are owned by Indians who will overcharge us.
Needless to say we did go to the shops but the ones on the side streets. I had already had experience of the High Street.
I leave Fiji on the night plane today, bound for Los Angeles, USA. I booked out of my room, put my luggage into storage, and walked the 20 - 30 minutes to the Main Road. The heat and humidity was high this morning.
I thought I would get the local bus to the Botanic Gardens at the "Sleeping Giant". I waited at the bus stop for nearly 2 hours but it never arrived.
Several taxi drivers stopped trying to get my fare, but they grossly overcharge. One driver asked for 50 dollars for a journey costing 1.50 dollars. Obviously I said "no".
Whilst, I waited a Fijian lady got worried about me wiating alone and waited with me. She wouldn`t get her bus until my bus came. Eventually, I gave up and we walked together to MacDonalds where I bought her an ice cream. She walked back with me to the road leading to my resort before she would take her own bus home.
I could have taken the bus that would take me to the road leading to the Gardens, but then I would have had to walk 4km there and 4km back. In the heat it was to far, I thought.
It has been a long day. I left Fiji at 22.00 and arrived in Los Angeles before I left at 13.20 on the same day because I passed over the date line during the journey.
It was a good journey, long, but I did manage to sleep a bit. I watched the same film twice "Elizabeth - The Golden Years". I had a rather large lady from Tonga sitting beside me. She was a very sweet lady who slept most of the time.
At LAX Airport we had to sit on the runway for about 30 minutes whilst they found a gate for us to alight from the plane. The airport was extremely busy with several flights arriving at the same time, but it was no more busier than Heathrow, I thought, it just took longer to be processed because of the way the American`s work. I was fortunate because I found a former travelling companian in the line who was on her way back to Canada, so we were able to chat whilst waiting.
Once through the security I quickly found my bag, got through customs, and was out. I picked up some American cash, got on the Airport bus, then a 75c bus ride to Santa Monica. I managed to pick up a young German woman on the way who was also going to the YHA, so again I had company.
The hostel is good, Santa Monica looks a nice place beside the sea. I met an Australian couple making their way to the UK eventually. We went out together to explore the town at night. We had fun watching the buskers and the Americans enjoying a Saturday night out beside the seaside.
On Sunday mornings the YHA put on a free guided walk of Santa Monica. The guide, Colin, was a former Boy Scout from Derbyshire who settled in USA some years ago. He is a volunteer guide who enjoys showing travelleres around his home town.
Colin was very knowledgeable about Santa Monica. He told us that our hostel was formerly the Town Hall which is a registered building. When the new Town Hall was built they made it into a hostel for travellers. It is the most used hostel in USA.
He took us to the historic pier (built 1908), which has been used many times in films. The most famous being "Forrest Gump".
He showed us the Santa Monica Urban Run Off Recycling Facility, which cleans 500,000 gallons of water from the storm drain system.
We moved onto the beach where on Sunday, ex-servicemen put out red and white wooden crosses, one for each person killed in the Iraq War since March 2003. This week 7 soldiers had been killed, 45039 in total - 60,645 wounded and approximately 1 million Iraq. It was a very moving site.
We walked along the Cycle Track that runs along the edge of the beach. On one side was Private Beach Clubs, whilst on the other many volley ball nets. It was early so not many people were out yet.
From here we went to the Rustic Canyon, now covered by a variety of smart houses, and very beautiful gardens. The area was originally an experimental planting area where many plants and trees were planted to see what would grow. They all grew because of the climate they enjoy in Santa Monica.
We climbed the 513 steps back up to the cliff top to walk back to the hostel passing Fairmont Miramar Hotel, featured in the film "Calendar Girls" and the second largest Morton Island Fig Tree in USA. By this time the beach was crowded with people out enjoying the Spring sunshine.
We finished our walk in Starbucks coffee house 4 hours later.
It was a long tiring day tour of the sights of Los Angeles. The bus started out from my hostel in Santa Monica. It went first along the Ocean Road, passing the famous Santa Monica Pier built in 1908, and the site of many films. Then we drove to nearby Venice Beach and the lovely Cannals. The film star Julia Roberts has a house there.
The tour went onto visit, Beverley Hills, Hollywood, and Bel Air where we were shown several houses owned by the "Pretty People" (Film Stars).
We then went on to visit Mann`s Chinese Theatre, the Walk of Fame, Hollywood Boulevard, Kodak Theatre, Rodeo Drive, the Hollywood sign on the hill, Universal Studio City Walk, Olvera Street, Disney Concert Hall, Cathedral of Our Lady, Music Center, Downtown LA, the new and old part of town and finally Chinatown.
The most interesting for me was Olvera Street which is very Spanish and the oldest part of town. It is where LA originated in the 1780`s.
I took the bus with my young friend from Ireland, Jackie, to the J. Paul Getty Center in the foothills of the Santa Monica Mountains. The trust purchased about 750 acres in 1983 and chose architect Richard Meier to design the Center. He chose classical materials in order to express the Getty roots of the past and his belief in the future. The Center opened in December 1997.
It offered displays of art in five pavillions which ranged from modern video to French furniture and china from the 1600`s. There was two guided tours one of the architecture and one of the gardens.
The Central Garden designed by Robert Irwin was my favourite. It had a zig zag path and played with the senses. He has tried to take away colour and encourage touch. He wanted visitors to listen to the changing sound of the stream and touch the grouped plants. They were unconventionally arranged by colour and texture. He wanted to give a spiritual sense to the garden we were told us.
The most amazing part was the way he had placed a flowing maze at the bottom of the garden with water cascading over the stepped stone wall into a reflecting pool. The maze was made up of 400 azaleas.
There were magnificent panoramic views from the terrace and a sculpture garden.
My aim for today was to discover the history of Los Angeles. I went first to the very modern Santa Monica Library.
I discovered Los Angeles was founded in 1781 when a group of men, women and children camped on the banks of the river in Southern California. The settlers were 44 colonists from Mexico. They were in search of fertile soil with water for irrigation, and a pleasant climate to start a farming community. They found it on the banks of the Los Angeles River. They planted their grain and soon a thriving town grew up.
Santa Monica I found out from a visit to the Californian Heritage Museum was started by a wealthy oil millionaire John Percival Jones who built a house in the area. He believed the American Government were going to build a railroad through the area so he and a partner bought 340,000 acres of land in the area. The railroad did not get built , he decided to sell off the land in lots instead and made another fortune. Soon the town of Santa Monica sprung up.
The museum also had an excellent exhibition of the work of Movie Star Photographer, George Hurrell, who worked as a photographer from 1930`s - 1990`s. He died in 1992 aged 87 years old. He was still working at the time of his death.
I took the train with my Irish friend to San Diego. It was a two and half hour journey from Union Street Station in LA. The journey was mostly uninteresting industrial complexes until we reached the Ocean, then it turned to pretty beaches and countryside.
San Diego is a fine town, a mixture of the old and new with a strong Mexican culture.
As soon as we booked into our hostel in the historical Gaslamp Quarter, we made our way to the Seaport Village. It was built in the old Mexican style with a fountain in the Centre. School children were entertaining the pubic with music, song and dance.
We had a meal then walked along the broadwalk overlooking San Diego Bay, and Coronado Island. At the big new Convention Center we stopped to have a look around. There were several conferences taking place, I was very nearly ushed into one when I went to look for a restroom. It was an impressive building.
We wandered around for a bit longer looking at the buildings. We found Wyatt Earps Gambling Room built in 1880, and the red trolly. We eventually returned to the hostel to watch a film " Walking in the Clouds", with a discussion after about Californian Culture.
We started our tour of the area by going to the Old Town of San Diego.
In 1769 San Diego became the birth place of California when the King of Spain sent men to establish a fort and mission on the hills above the present day Old town. The settlement was the first permanent European presence on the West Coast of United States. It still has many old buildings in the area.
The Trolley then took us to the Embarcadero along the San Diego Bay. Here we saw "The Star of India" an old three mast merchantship built in the Isle of Man 1863 and circumavigated the earth 21 times. The USS Midway Aircraft Carrier was there and the sculputed Urban Trees - 30 in total.
Along the Marina wwe found several memorials to the Naval and Commercial Fleets.
It then took us to the Seaport Village which use to be a Tuna Canning Factory in the 1970`s but now a tourist village with many restaurants and shops.
We went onto the Convention Building and Central Downtown. A man named Alonzo E. Horton was responsible for establishin the New town in 1867. He purchased nearly 1,000 acres of land along the habour.
Then we went to the Gaslamp area where we are staying. It use to be an unsafe area with many gambling halls and working girls between 1880 - 1910 but not now, but it is very lively place both day and night.
My friend and I stopped at the William Davis House Museum, the oldest surviving structure in the New Town section dated from 1850.
We then got back onto the Trolley to Coronado going across the 2.1 mile bridge to the Ferry Landing Market Plac, where we got spectactular views of the City`s Skyline and enjoyed a sit in the sunshine.
Back on the Trolley we went for a tour around Coronado before going back across the bridge to the wonderful Balboa Park with all its many Museums and gardens.
No native trees grow in the Park apparently, all the trees have been planted by a lady named Kate Sessions in 1892. Before she came to the area it was a dry desert but she transformed is into a vibrant oasis.
From here we made our way back to the Old Town then our hostel.
We started the day by visiting Little Italy. It began in the 1920`s with nearly 6,000 residents that toiled to bring San Diego to the forefront of the Tuna Industry. This month they are holding an Art Festival.
In the afternoon we took the Trolley back to the Old Town to have a closer look at the town.
We strolled around the old buildings with storytellers in period customes, live Mariachi banks, local artisans demonstrating glass blowing, shops and restaurants inspired by the 19th Century San Diego life.
The most interesting for me was the Wells Fargo Museum showing a vidoe about the famous express and banking company.
The Company was founded by Henry Wells and William G. Fargo. It opened its first office in San Francisco, California in 1852. They bought and sold gold, accepted deposits, safe keeping valuables, transferring funds and deliverying mail.
By late 1860`s Wells Fargo expanded its legendary stagecoach network beyond California rolling across the American West. There was a Stagecoach on display.
They are today a multi billion dollar corporation that spans much of the US.
Later in the afternoon we returned to Santa Monica by bus and train.
We are back in Santa Monica. It is a very hot Sunday morning. By the time Jackie and I had got to the beach it was already busy with ex-servicemen putting out their crosses, fishermen with their rods looking for a catch off the end of the pier, people on their bikes, roller skates or running along the cycle path. But no one swimming in the ocean. I was to discover the reason later.
We spent the morning walking the beach, the Rustic Canyon and finally along the cliff tops back to town in time to meet up with Jackie`s school friend Morgan and his girlfriend for lunch.
Morgan, has an American mother and an Irish father. He went to boarding school with Jackie in Dublin and has made his home in West Hollywood, where he works writing music scores for a film company. His girlfriend was brought up in San Fransisco.
We had a Mexican lunch before taking a paddle in the ocean. The water felt like ice it was so cold.
After saying goodbye to them we returned to the hostel where I found 5 young girls, who had been working in a Canadian ski resort for the season, had moved into my dorm. One came from Kelvedon Hatch, near Brentwood. It`s a small world!
My Irish friend left for San Fransisco today.
I set out to find out about the history of Santa Monica. I walked a bit along the historic Route 66 ( opened in 1926, connected Chicago with LA, over 2,250 miles), where I went in search of the Santa Monica Historic Society Museum.
I have heard LA described as a "Concrete Jungle", and I am afraid I have to agree. It is not easy to find your way around. I searched for ages for the Museum, I did eventually found the little old house tucked away.
I discovered that Santa Monica`s original inhabitants arrived from Asia via the land bridge over the Bering Strait that connected Siberia and Alaska. They were Hokan speaking hunters who found it easy to survive in the area with so much food and a warm climate.
Years later the Uto-Aztecans arrived, no-one knows what drove them westward but they transformed life in the area. They were named the Gabrielinos. Named because of their association with Mission San Gabriel. They were the richest and most culturally sophisticated native society in California.
Only 400-500 Gabrielino discendants currently remain in the area. Their culture has been dis-integrated under the weight of the Spanish, Mexican and then American dominance, but they were responsible for doing the back breaking toil involved in working the land.
International rivalry between Spain, England and Russia sent repercussions to the area. Spain claimed California.
Then the Mexicans came to develope the area, under Spainish rule. The Californios, Mexican people born in California of spanish-Indian ancestry, and Spanish speaking dominated the area. They owned and worked the great ranchos of the 1830`s and 1840`s.
In 1845 the US government went to war with Mexico over Texas. Mexico was defeated. In 1848 California was one of the areas handed over to the US.
During the Gold Rush the population increased drasticly in LA. The people started to look for a place to escape and they found Santa Monica.
It became a tourist attraction. In 1875 a rich business man from San Fransisco bought up land around Santa Monica, and married a widow who owned the rest, originally for sheep but he turned to real estate. He wanted to build a City. He joined forces with a Senator John Percival Jones of Nevada.
Railroad was Jones`s real aim. He formed a City based around his railroad company, LA & Independent Railroad. He wanted to put the Southern Pacific out of business, instead he went out of business.
Then Collis Huntington - owner of the Southern Pacific wanted to build a deep sea water port in Santa Monica. He also failed. But Santa Monica survived, became a fashionable place to live. The rich and middle class came to live there in the 1920`s. It went into decline in the 1930`s but began to flourish again after WW11. It has gone through earthquakes, been redeveloped. It now has large office complexes and is the centre for filming, still photography and entertainment.
Malibu is a short bus ride down the coast. It is a favourite place for movie stars to hang out. Stars like Pamela Anderson, Britney Spiers and Mel Gibson have houses in the area. The Getty Villa is also in the area (the original Getty Art Centre).
I eventually, found the correct bus stop (they never seem to be where the map says they are). An old gentleman in a pink jacket and white trousers, whilst nearby the Police were trying to arrest a man for carrying a wild bird in a cage on the mudguard of his push bike. Well, I guess it is LA !!
My bus arrived and I literally fell onto it, on my hands and knees. Embarrassed?!!?? The nice bus driver put me off at the correct stop for the Getty Villa. It looked like a real cool place. I walked through the gate into the courtyard. TV cameras were all around with an intercom to call for the shuttle to take me up to the villa. I pressed it, no response, I pressed it again, still no response, then I saw the notice, "Closed on Monday and Tuesday". It was Tuesday. I left.
I decided to go walking in the back streets. It was really very pretty. Lovely houses, beautiful gardens, mountains as a back drop. An attractive setting but no movie stars, in fact, no people at all. It was so quiet it seemed deserted. All I could hear was a few dogs barking and a helicopter over head. Probably security checking me out.
I returned to Santa Monica via the beach.
I was picked up early from my hostel, taken to Hollywood where I was put on another bus for Las Vegas. We travelled East out of LA and on into the High Desert, called because it is 4,000 feet above sea level.
We stopped at Barstow Station which was unique, all the buildings were made out of old railway carriages. We continued on through the desert with mountains on either side. We went through a town called Jean, a little before we reached the out skirts of Vegas.
Vegas is the fastest growing City in the US. It currently has a population of 1.9 million with it growing by 5,000 a week. 31 million people visited the City last year.
Its biggest industry at the moment is construction. The City is spreading but there is one main street called the "Strip". This is where most of the entertainment and gambling takes place. In summer the temperatures reach 115 degrees.
As soon as I checked into my hotel I went out to explore the "Strip". It was amazing, a fantacy world, each hotel had a different theme, a gambling casino, shopping mall, restaurants and bars. The MGM is apparently the longest hotel with 5009 rooms.
People of all ages visit Vegas, the old, the young and even young families. There were crowds of people walking the "Strip" enjoying the fun and excitment.
I didn`t stay late, went back to my hotel to enjoy the comfort of my room. A king size bed, a bathroom all to myself and a TV. I haven`t had such luxury for months.
Another early start at 6.30am for our journey to the Grand Canyon. We made our way through the desert towards the man-made Lake Mead, Hoover Dam, the mighty Colorado River and the Black Canyon.
We passed over the stateline into Arizona, but first the customs had to search the vehicle. The US government are afraid that the Dam may be a terrorist target. It was built in the 1030`s to stop the Colorado River from flooding the land further down the valley.
We entered the Kaibab National Forest then onto the Grand Canyon. We made our way to the South rim.
The Grand Canyon is made up of many canyons with thousands of gorges. All these canyons combine to form one grand canyon, the most sublime on earth, they say. It has awe-inspiring views. It`s beauty and size was humbling.
We stopped for lunch at the little village that serves the Canyon. I took the opportunity to walk the footpath to visit some of the Lookouts, historical buildings, visit the mule corral, and watched the Indians perform native dance and song.
We returned to Vegas via the Hoover Dam and Mead Lake where we stopped to have a closer look.
It was a long tiring day but well worth the effort.
Today, we made our way out of the desert back to Santa Monica. We were allowed to sleep in until 10am which was a bonus, especially as I went out on the town in
Los Vegas last night.
It is the kind of place that one really needs a friend to enjoy it fully, but I gave it a good shot anyway.
I took a walk up the "Strip" in the opposite direction from yesterday afternoon. It takes on a totally different feel at night, with all the flashing neon lights and razmatazz. There were just as many people out having fun, though.
I walked into several casinos along the "Strip". All the gambling tables and slot machines were busy. The people on the machines seemed to have a vacant look in their eyes, as they continued to put their money cards into the machine and press the buttons. The tables needed more skill and more money.
The casinos were plush, had bars and restaurants, dance floors and music. Once in, however, it was difficult to find the way out. There were no windows and no clocks. Nothing to remind the punters of the world outside this fantasy world. The casinos are open 24 hours a day. I am sure some people play day and night. I wouldn`t know how, however.
Not everybody who goes to Los Vegas for gambling. Many go for the shows or shopping, or like me just to see what it is all about. Both the shows and shopping is really good but you need money to spend.
I took in a free show at the hotel called Treasure Island. (Each hotel has a different theme). It was a ploy to encourage people into their casino and night club, but the showgirls and boys did put on a good show with some excellent visual effects. I enjoyed it, so did the large crowd.
As I was making my way back to my hotel at 12.30am, I noticed a long traffic jam as people were making their way into the "Strip" for their night of fun, and the night shift were on their way into work.
The journey back to Santa Monica was uneventful, but I did appreciate the greenery and colourful flowers when I arrived especially after the long drive through the desert.
This morning I visited the Santa Monica Farmers Market where they sold nothing but fruit, vegetables, flowers and other foods. Each stall specialists in one produce, oranges or apples, flowers all of the same variety. It was busy with shoppers.
In the afternoon I went with a small group to the LA Farmers Market in Hollywood, which was very different. It was more of a social event. Lots of smart restaurants, cafes, shops a pond with dancing fountain, a band playing on the green. Families out for a leisurely Saturday afternoon.
When Arthur Fremont Gilmore came West from Illinois in 1870, he and his partner purchased 2 sizable farms. When the partners parted, they drew straws and A H Gilmore became the sole owner of the dairy farm.
At the turn of the 20th century he expanded but needed more water, so he started drilling and found oil.
Over the years the market has undergone many changes until it became the unique market it is today, and a favourite spot for Angelenos.
I spent my third Sunday in a row walking the beach at Santa Monica. I enjoy watching the families of LA having a leisurely day on the beach,
They travel along the cycle path either on their bikes, tricycles, skateboards, skates, or they run or walk. Little children are pulled along behind the bikes in their buggies, dogs on leads, one dog I saw was given a ride on its owners bike.
They play volleyball, keep fit in the beach gym, surf or play something between football and volley ball. Whole families are out enjoying the day together. As it was Mothering Sunday in the US more people than usual were out on the water front.
I walked to Venice, which is a bit up the coast, where they hold an arts and crafts fair on the Weekend. A lot of wackie people live in Venice and they all seem to come out on Sunday.
I walked as far as the Windward Pier where I found a number of Mexican Indian families fishing and enjoying a picnic away from the crowds.
I walked back to the Santa Monica Pier, then to the hostel.
I took the shuttle bus to San Fransisco this morning, it picked me up from the hostel in Santa Monica and dropped me off at Union Square, San Francisco.
The City Centre Hostel is a really nice hostel but it is in a very undesireable area. Ellis Street is where the unfortunate homeless soles hang out, most are on drugs and desperate. The girls have turned to prostitution and the guys crime to support themselves and their habit. As I walked the 5 blocks, however, nobody bothered me but it was a bit of a shock to see so many of them. They seem to have been contained in one area.
I travelled to Sans Fransisco with a wellspoken English Actor in his middle years, named James. He was a jolly man, always joking and great fun. As we were waiting together outside the hostel, a very attractive policeman from the Police Station across the road, strolled over and instantly my companion good naturedly struck up a conversation with him. The policeman askd if James and I were travelling together.
"No, not really ,we only met 20 minutes ago," I told him. He asked if either of us knew anything about the incident up the road last night. "No" !!???
It turned out that there had been a robbery, police had video footage and the robber looked very much like James. The policeman could not let the bus go until the video had been checked, and James cleared.
Fortunately, James was allowed to make the journey and spent the night in a hostel at Fisherman`s Wharf, San Fransisco instead of the jail in Santa Monica.
I took a free City Guilds walking tour of the mansions in the Pacific Heights area of San Francisco. Some of the mansions have been used as Consulate Buildings, including the Japanese and German Consulates in 1941. I learnt about the architecture, the Victorian lifestyle and the earthquakes of the area.
My new friend, Hannah from London, and I walked together to the meeting place at the top of the stairs of the Alta Plaza Park. The tour lasted two hours finishing at the Danielle Steel, the novalist, mansion. Barbara, our guide, was extremely knowledgeable about all the buildings she showed us.
After the tour, Hannah and I took the bus to Fisherman`s Wharf for lunch. Here we got views of Alcatraz. Then, we walked to the Latin Quarter, Chinatown, through the city to the Embarcadero area and back to the Hostel via Union Street.
We had to negotiate Ellis Street on the way back, which can be a bit of an ordeal because a couple of blocks is the working girls patch, but I found that if you throw back good natured comments to the hecklers, they actually enjoy the fun.
I walked first to the City Hall, four stories high, covers two city blocks, and built in 1915. It`s 308 feet dome is patterned after the National Capitol in Washington.
Then, I made my way to Alamo Square Park where it was possible to get good views of the City. I carried on walking until I reached the Golden Gate Park where I made my way to the Music Concourse, the Conservatory of Flowers, the Japanese Tea Garden and the Botanic Gardens.
I rather foolishly decided to go on to Baker`s Beach for a view of the Golden Gate Bridge.It was a long, long walk, even longer when I got lost on the way back to the hostel.
During the evening, however, Hannah returned from her visit to a family friend, and James, my friend from the LA Hostel, together with two other lads from LA, and a few more on their way out, joined us to make up a nice little party in the hostel`s reception.
I didn`t go far today after yesterday`s marathon walk. Hannah and I went to the Yerba Buena Gardens in the area of South of Market Street. It is being transformed from vacant wharehouses on industrial lots into a fashionable neighbourhood. The south of Market district, called SoMa, has emerged as the art and nightlife centre of San Francisco.
Yerba Buena Gardens has been developed into the Centre of the Arts, a visual and performing arts complex, 5.5 acres of gardens with an outdoor performance area, the Martin Luther King Memorial, an ice skating and bowling centre, and S.F`s historic Charles Loaf Caroursel.
We took our lunch and hung out in the gardens in the sunshine until it was time for Hannah to get the Airport Shuttle. She is going back to the UK. Her six month trip is over.
I started my day by taking the bus to the Russian Hill area of San Francisco where I walked up a very steep hill on Lombard Street. It rose up 345 feet above the SF Bay. A magical neighbourhood with secret gardens and amazing views. It is the home of writers, artists and young bohemians.
Lombard Street is known as "the crookedist in the world". The turns known as switchbanks, were built in the 1920`s to allow traffic to descend the steep incline. The street zig-zags around flower beds and shrubs, which unfortunately were not in bloom just now.
I went onto the historic "Cannery", opened in 1907 as the Del Monte fruits and veg canning plant. Now a popular shopping, dining and nightlife destination. I had to stop to buy yet another pair of shoes (my seventh pair since leaving home), because the ones I was wearing fell apart.
Further on was SF Maritime National Historical Park at Hyde Street Pier. It had some impressive old ships, tugs, junks and a ferry.
Next, I went to the Musee Mecanique on Pier 45, where I found a penny arcade museum displaying antique mechanical games.
Then, I got to Pier 39, where I could smell and hear the California Sea Lions noisy barking, as I approached the Pier`s West Marina. They draw such a large crowd of International Visitors every day that they have been dubbed "Sea Lion-ebrities".
Shortly after the 1989 SF earthquake, the Sea Lions started to arrive and soon took over the docks in January 1990. At first they numbered from 10-50, but due to the availability of lots of herrings to eat, dockspace and a protective environment, the population soon grew to more than 300. Sometimes it even grows as high as 900. They certainly are the real stars of the waterfront.
I started the day with a visit to the Ferry Building Farmers Market with Danica, a hostel guide. There were many stalls selling mainly fresh produce, flowers and other delicious things.
I bought something for my lunch from the stalls before saying goodbye to my guide, and heading off towards the Golden Gate Bridge.
I walked the San Francisco Bay walking trail via the Embarcadero, Fisherman`s Wharf, Fort Mason, The Marina, Crissy Fields and Fort Point. I continued to walk across the bridge to Vista Point and back again.
This took me all afternoon. Once on the bridge, it took approximately 30 minutes to walk across and 30 minutes to walk back. Although, it was sunny the wind was cold. The Bay area is noted for its microclimates.
The wind funnels continually through the Gold Gate creating harsh conditions, often fog will rise over the bridge and surrounding area.
This weekend there has been some kind of Girl Scout Convention. There were just hundreds of them all over the City, mainly on the bridge and in the Recreational Park below, where they were enjoying picnics and games in the Park.
The bridge was completed in 1937, and today carries around 40 million vehicles across it each year.
I and Peter, from the North of England, met up with Joe from San Francisco for a 3 hour walking tour of the popular Haight Ashbury District.
We started our tour by taking the Underground to the colourful Castro area at the Upper end of Market Street. It caters to the SF`s large gay and lesbian population, The neighbourhood, marked by the Castro Theatre marquee, has become a symbol of gay and lesbian pride throughout the world. The area is marked by rainbow coloured banners.
We took a bus to the Haight Ashbury area where we explored the streets which told the story of a Victorian- era that was subsequenty settled by comfortable merchants whose ginderbread homes still grace the streets.
The community is universally recognised for its creativity and diversity expressed in the colourful mixture of shops and residents whose style started in the sixties. Some of the hippy "Flower Power" era, immortalised by the Beatles during their "Summer of Love", still remains on the streets today.
We visited some of the shops and met some of the people before getting the tram to the office of the Law Firm for whom Joe works. It overlooked the magnificent Civic Centre Dome. We were invited to take photographs, listen to songs about SF, and watch a video of the Beatles when they visited the Haight Ashbury District.
The day started badly. I was moving from San Francisco to Sacramento, the Californian State Capital. I went to the bus stop at the appointed time. No bus.
The ticket office had given me the wrong time. when I complained I was told it was the right time for weekends. But, it is not weekend its Monday, so its the wrong time. No, its the right time for a weekend??!!?? OK, when`s the next one?
I met a really lovely lady, Shelli, who was going home after a business meeting in SF. She kindly shared her lunch with me and gave me her telephone number in case of emergency.
The jouney took 2 hours so I arrived mid-afternoon with plenty of time to look around. The hostel is a few minutes from the train station, opposite the city Hall and within walking distance of California`s Capital Building, Cathedral, Old Town, Museums and Shopping. I went out to explore the town. It looks very interesting with lots of history.
I had another bad start to the day. First, I spilt my coffee all over my cream trousers at breakfast, and had to make my way back to the hostel to change.
Then, I went to the Post Office which was an ordeal, first to find, then to get into it. I have never found it so difficult to post a parcel in my life. The security was so tight I had to go through a metal detector twice.
Then, I decided to take a tour of the California State Capitol Building, which looks very beautiful from outside. Sadly, I had chosen the wrong day to visit.
There was a big reception for the Inaugeral Ceremony of the 67th Speaker of the California State, Hon. Karen R Bass. At the same time it was "Kids Day at the Capitol", as well as a special event by the California State Employees Assn.
The house was packed with kids as well as politicans, TV camermen, officials etc. However, I did manage to get passed the security guards to get into the reception, but I didn`t have the cheek to stay long, just long enough to have a very quick look at the dome. It was impossible to have a proper look around the house because of the number of people so I went out to look at the gardens. Unfortunately, that was extremely busy as well.
I left to take another look at the Old Town, visiting the Old Schoolhouse Museum and the other old buildings, but I managed to trip on the high curb and landed flat on my face, which winded me, and I ended up with several cut and bruises. So I left there.
I took myself off to the Leland Stanford Mansion where I took a tour. The Mansion built between 1856 - 1872, is a 4-story building of 19,000 sq. feet. The Mansion has a historical and architectual significance. It served as the office of 3 early governors and is still used on occasions by the present Governor Arnold Schwarzengger. It was a truly beautiful building and I left in a much better frame of mind.
It is another very hot day. I took myself off to the Sacramento City Cemetery. It was a long walk but it was worth it, the cemetery was peaceful and beautiful.
It was founded in 1849. By virtue of Jim Marshall`s 1848 discovery of gold at Coloma, Sacramento became the focal point of world interest and many people migrated to the area because it was the gateway to the Northern Mines. For many it became the last resting place.
Capt. John A Sutter established the Cemetery in late 1849, as simply a "Public Graveyard" but it expanded greatly in the coming years. It was once 60 acres but now it has been reduced to 28.
There are many famous historic characters buried in this cemetery, and I spent 2 hours wandering around visiting the graves of all this historically famous people.
In the afternoon I went to the California Museum of History, Women and Arts where I learnt about the beginning of California, how the government was formed and all the famous people who come from California, as well as the Minerva Award Winners. Women who have done a lot for the community of California.
I was feeling a bit fed-up with big American Cities so I took the bus to Lake Tahoe which is on the California/Nevada Stateline. I was to stay at "The Mellow Mountain Retreat". The journey took me through some beautiful countryside of mountain passes, pine forests, fast flowing rivers and snowy peaked hills.
The hostel is situated in a quiet back street of South Lake Tahoe on the California side. It is a small privately run hostel with the owner Clete living upstairs and another guy Tim living in a cabin out back. It has a relaxed, friendly atmosphere. I am the only guest at the moment.
I dropped my luggage and went to explore the area which is both a Winter and Summer resort, but it is inbetween seasons just now. The Winter season closed only two weeks ago I understand. his Winter they had quite a lot of snow and evidence of it can still be seen on the mountain tops.
Clete was out paragliding in the evening but fortunately Tim was home so I did have company and he is an easy man with whom to get along.
Today, I took a walk around the bay, at least some of it. It was a hot day for walking and I got a bit sun burnt.
The first humans to frequent the Tahoe Basin were the Native American group known as the Washoe who were present in the area over 10,000 years ago. John C Fremont and Kit Carson were the first European Americans to lay eyes upon the mountain lake in 1844.
The Lake is 22 miles in length, 12 miles in width and has a maximum depth of 1,645 feet. It is the second deepest lake in the US.
It is a beautiful blue lake with water so clear you can see the bottom very clearly. Unfortunately, a large part if it us private property, the marina and beach so it is impossible to get close to it in parts, which is a shame, but there are some really nice public beaches.
The public transport system seems to be almost non-existant at the moment so I didn`t get to far around the Bay.
Yesterday, after my walk I returned to the hostel to find I was the only person at home. Both, Clete and Tim (the guys who live there), were out. But I wasn`t alone for long, 5 girls arrived. 1 American, 1 Dutch and 3 English. I showed them in, gave them beds and told Clete when he got home.
They were a nice crowd of girls and we had a good evening together. The Dutch girl was staying on for another night so she went off for a bike ride, but the rest were moving on. The last of them didn`t leave until the afternoon, and they had tired me out chatting. I took a rest by sitting on the porch in the sunshine for a bit. Then I walked to Heavenly Village on the Stateline and toured the Casinos which are on the Nevada side.
They were not so busy or glitzy as Vegas but it was just a interesting to watch the punters. I don`t gamble myself because I can`t bear to lose!
I decided to take a walk up one of the ski mountains nearby. It was a pleasant walk through the pine forest. There appeared to be nobody around at all. I saw a few people going up to the top of the mountain in the gondola but no one was actually walking. It was a fairly easy climb at first but it got steeper the higher you climbed.
I was enjoying the walk until I remembered Tim had told me there were bears in the forest here, which did frighten me much more than the snakes and spiders in Australia. I didn`t have a clue what to do if I came across a bear.
I decided to only walk far enough to get some photographs of the lake and surrounding area, which was a little less than half way.
I have since discovered that Tahoe Black Bears are usually not aggressive towards humans, but they grow to around 500 - 700 pounds. I still wouldn`t want to meet one in the forest alone.
In the afternoon I went to the beach where I came across an ageing hippy artist from San Francisco who wanted to draw my face. "No, not if it is going to cost me money", I told him. Anyway, we got into conversation and we sat on the beach for a couple of hours doing what I was told never to do in America, and that was talk politics. And no, I never allowed him to draw me.
I left my haven in Lake Tahoe today. It is a very pretty spot with its mountains, forest and lake, but yet it has an uban feel about it. There is the advantage of having the countryside, lakeside and when in need of a bit of the high life, there is the bars, restaurants and Casinos a short work up the road. Great ! And a couple of cool guys living there. What more could a girl want ?!!??
I returned to Sacramento on the bus, the journey through the mountains was enjoyable, but I found that Sacramento was even hotter than Lake Tahoe. (We have had a heat wave over the weekend 90-100F)
The hostel is a lovely old Mansion built in 1885 by Llewely Williams former owner of Pioneer Milling Co. He made his money during the Gold Rush. It is well preserved considering it has been uplifted and moved three times.
At the moment, however, is is over run by school kids.
I walked along the American River path which runs 23 miles from Old Sacramento to Folsom Lake. On the river I found lots of local people either wading out in fishing or sitting in their tiny little boats with their rods.
I walked quite a long way until I met a major highway running over the top of the river and I lost the path. I turned back then returning to the Old Town. I found a sealion basking in the sun under the wharf.
This made me start thinking about what Sacramento might have been like before the town was established, so I took myself off to the State Library. I was sent to the Sacramento Room which is a reference library. Here, I was treated like royalty. There was only myself and a writer doing some research.
The Librarians sat me down at a very smart desk and got out lots of books for me to look at, even the writer man came over with a new book on Sacramento history entitled "True Gold- from Indians to Arnold" personally siged by the author Greg Velm. The very man who had recommended it to me.
And I only went into the Library to get out of the Sun!
After my trip to the Library yesterday I decided to visit the Sutter Fort and Indian Museum, which are on the other side of the City.
It was a long walk but I passed some really handsome looking old mansions along the way. The road was shaded by well established trees giving protection from the hot sunshine. There was a strong wind but it was a hot wind.
Sacramento is situated in a vast flat valley. It used to be known as the "City of the Plain" and it can be oppressively hot in summer. The wind comes up from the Sacramento Delta.
When I arrived at the Fort area I made my way first to the old Mexican Church, St. Francis of Assisi, where it was very dark and cool. It had a little pool in the middle of the church with a fountain which was very calming and peaceful.
There were so many school children at the Fort I decided to go to the Museum first. I discovered that approximately 300,000 indigenous people, speaking 120 different languages, once livered throughout California.
Before the Europeans arrived, great herds of elk and antelope ranged lush forest and grasslands. Salmon and trout filled the rivers, and countless grizzly bears and mountain lions roamed the hills. The Indians used over 500 plant species as food. They lived happily of the land.
They traded with other tribes and used beads and clam shells as money. Their trade routes, established thousands of years ago are still travelled. Every major highway in the state was once an Indian trade route.
When the Europeans arrived they brought with them disease that oblitered whole villages and 75% of their population died.
I only had a short time in the Sutter Fort. It reminded me of the old wild west movies from my childhood.
John Augustus Sutter has been given the credit for establishing the first European Settlement on the land that would encompass the City of Sacramento in 1839. He was originally from the German section of Switzerland. He was really quite a naughtie man.
He left his young family of a wife and 4 children, and a lot of debts, and made his way to America. He was not altogether an honest man especially in his business dealings. He joined the army and worked for both the American and Mexicans. Eventually he managed to persuade the Mexicans who had California at that time, to allow him a piece of land on which to settle. On this land he built the fort, and the City of Sacramento grow up around it.
I am beginning to run out of things to do in Sacramento. I will have to move on soon.
Today, I took a walk across Tower Bridge which has a vertical lift span and was opened for traffic in 1935. It is 737 feet long. The Central lift span is a 209 foot truss supported by two vertical towers 160 feet tall. I was fortunate enough to be around to see it lifted up to allow a paddle steamer go up stream. It is very different to the London Tower Bridge. Its painted gold for a start.
I sat in the sun beside the river watching the comings and going on the bridge and the river until the afternoon. I made my daily visit to my friend the sea lion before taking myself off to the Crocker Art Museum.
The Museum began in 1869, when Judge Edwin B Crocker and his family began to assemble a significant collection of more than 700 paintings and 1,400 master drawings during an extended trip to Europe.
Upon their return, they added the work of contemporary California artists, forming the core of what is today one of the States premier collections of California art.
Judge Crocker (1818-1875) practised law and served on the State Supreme Court. He was the brother of Charles Crocker, one of the "Big Four" railroad barons, and acted as legal counsel for the Central Pacific Railroads.
In 1885, his widow Margaret, presented the Art Gallery and Collection to the City of Sacramento.
Currently, there is a special exhibition of the human body with 60 rarely seen drawings. My favourite painting was not from this collection but a painting by a German painter - Paul Burde (1819-1874) entitled "Preaching in the Wood". It showed a clearing in an American Wood somehwere in the North of the Country, which served as the site of a religious service. I felt it caught what I imagined was America in the late 1800`s.
This weekend is the 35th Annual Sacramento Jazz Festival. It is a massive event. At any given hour during the four day festival there will be as many as 30 performances going on at once. I saw several of them playing today, at least the free ones. On nearly every street corner in the old part of town, or in the parks, music was being played.
There was a variety of jazz-styles from standard to country-tinged two-step. Rag time and Dixieland. Swing, Blues, Straight-Crooners and kids playing drums on dustbins. (They were excellent).
It started off with a great Parade in typical American Style, which walked around the streets of the Old Town. Several bands, vintage cars, people dressed in period costume, free gifts being thrown out to the people along route. I managed to get my favourite "Jelly Beans".
I left California today on the Coast Starlight train that runs between LA and Seattle. I got off at Portland.
Everything is really busy just now because of the Memorial Day weekend. I wanted to get the train yesterday but unfortunately there was no room. Today is also just as busy.
I met a really lovely lady from Grass Valley at the Station who was taking the train to Eugene-Springfield to visit her son. We kept each other company which was really great.
The train left Sacramento at mid-night. I didn`t sleep much. When it got light we were greeted by views of the beautiful Mt. Shasta but soon we were passing through the tunnel that took us out of California into Oregon.
The courtyside was very pretty with vast forests, mountains, canyons and there was snow still hanging around.
We stopped in the Klamath Falls area where we saw the Crater Lake. Most of the passengers got off here, especially the Boy Scouts.
We got magnificent views of the Cascade Mountains and the massive Lookout Reservoir on route.
After Joyce got off the train the countryside became more agricultural. I slept for most of the next 3 hours of the journey. I arrived at Portland after 15 hours of travel, and found that the motel was further out of town than I had been led to believe.
When I arrived in Portland it was warm and sunny but during the night lightening bolts streaked across the sky and 0.96 inches of rain fell breaking a decade old record in the area. Somebody should have warned them I was coming !!!
Portland is a perfect City for walking. I am staying in the NE Suburbs which takes a bit less than an hour to get into Downtown, depending on the traffic.
Once in the City Centre there are 6 districts and an impressive collection of art that animated the urban landscape. I decided to explore it in two parts starting at the Pioneer Courthouse Square in the Centre of Downtown.
Here, I found a Bike Rally taking place in the rain. I tackled the Waterfront, Lloud District and Old Town as well as China Town.
I walked Govn. Tom McCall Waterfront Park where I found they were getting ready for a big celebration next week. It is going to be the Rose Parade. The rose is Portlands signature flower so it is an important time for the district.
I crossed the Hawthorne Bridge to the East Side walked Vera Katz Eastbank Esplanade then into Lloyd District and Rose Quarter where the Oregon State Offices are located, as well as the big Oregon Convention Centre, Lloyds Centre and lots of attrsative statues.
I walked back across the Steel Bridge into the Old Town. I found the Musical Friendship Circle, Japanese American Historical Plaze, Skidmore Fountain, the Arts and Crafts Market at Ankeny and the Old Irish Pub dating back to 1889.
I then explored Chinatown which had moved from its original site because of the 1894 floods destoyed it. The Chinese Community have played a big part in the developement of Portland.
It is Memorial Day and everything is closed in the cultural District where I started my tour today. I found several splendid statues, churches and a fountain that was overflowing with foam. Somebody had put detergent into the water. It is very near the University district !!??!! I wandered into the University area.
From here I made my way to the City Hall, Justice Centre, Federal Court House, Portland Building and its colourful gardens.
The finished my tour in the smart Pearl District. It was once a heavy industrial area but it has been transformed from a neighbourhood of old warehouses into clever retail space, studios, galleries and upscale lofts.
Portland has a large gay community, many of whom frequent the Pearl Area so it tends to be a bit laid-back and quirky.
I moved onto the state of Washington today. It took me most of the day, two buses to get to the Union Station, Portland, the Amtrak Train to Seattle, ferry to the Island, bus to Thriftway the Centre of Vashon and a shuttle to the hostel, but it was worth it. The sun has come out for me.
Vashon Island has 50 miles of Saltwater beaches, acres of rolling pastures, breathtaking views along its country roads, and majestic forests of cedars, Douglas firs covered in moss and licorice ferns.
The hostel is quiant. It is a ranch with Indian Teepees, covered wagons, log cabins and everything Wild West. I managed to take a walk along the fish Pond trail in the nearby forest. The pond is the largest body of water within the Vashon Island. The best views were from the Picnic table at the north end of the pond. The pond is home to many varieties of water fowl, including wood ducks. Turtles have also been seen in this spot but not today.
I took a long walk through the country lanes on Vashon Island to the town. I had the company of Sarah a traveller from Bristol, UK.
We went to the Library where we could get free internet. I left her there and walked onto the Heritage Museum. The Museum was busy with local people viewing an exhibition of paintings and photographs of the early days on the Island.
The aritist was Norman Edson, a local man with a passion for Mount Rainer which can be seen from the Island and is featured in most of his pictures. He recorded the history of the Island and its Native Inhabitants with his pictures.
Settlement started in 1877. Water was the primary link joining the mainland with the small neighbourhood of Vashon and Maury Island. It had few inland roads or trails and heavy forest.
I seem to have spent my day looking for the Waterfront, both in Vashon and Seattle.
This morning Sarah and I went in search of the waterfront near the hostel. We could see the water but we didn`t seem able to get anywhere near it because all the land was private property. It was very frustrating.
I took the mid-afternoon ferry to West Seattle where I had to take two buses to get me to NE Seattle and the Hostel. It was located on Seaview Avenue in the area of Ballard. My problem was that nobody seem to know Seaview Avenue. All the people on the bus, which was full, were desperately trying to think where it could possibly be located. They were very concerned about my whelfare with my big pack and all.
I got off the bus at Ballard Centre and decided that it must be on the Waterfront. I walked for a couple of miles asking everybody I came across on route. Eventually, I found it. The hostel had only opened in January 2008 and it did have a magnificent view of the Waterfront.
I have only today to look around Seattle for early tomorrow I fly to Mexico to spent some time with my friend Margaret before making my way back to the Uk.
It is raining and I am feeling sick with a heavy cold. (The first since leaving the UK.) Unfortunately, I fear I am not going to see very much of Seattle today. I will just have to come back again some other time.
I decided that I should go out to see a bit of Seattle despite my virus, so I wandered along to the nearby marina, I found the Nordic Memorial of Leif Erikson, the first recorded European to set foot on American Shores in Year 1,000. He was the son of Erik the Red, born in Iceland and settled in Greenland. He sailed to Norway and then to Vinland in North America.
I walked back to Salmon Bay and onto the Hiram M Chittenden Locks. A very busy lock system and a vital part of Seattle.
I crossed on the spillway to the south side to view the fish ladder, after I explored the gardens which have 500 plant species. Some rare and unique.
The large Lock is 825 feet long and 80 feet wide for large commercial vessels. The Small Lock is 150 feet long and 28 feet wide, and handles smaller vessels. I watched both gates open to let the river traffic through and saw the nearby bridge open to let a large yacht pass.
The locks control the elevation of the water allowing vessels to move back and forth from one water elevation to the other. The level of the sea water in the Puget Sound is lower than freshwater Salmon Bay. There can be a 6 - 26 foot difference.
In the afternoon I took the bus to Downtown Seattle going first to the colourful Pitt Street Market, with foods, flowers, arts, crafts and buskers. A Popular spot since 1907.
I wantered around the City looking at the old buildings around the Pioneer Square area as well as the modern City Hall, Central Library and Westlake Centre. They have an efficient monorail system.
I ended up walking uphill to the Cathedral on 9th Street and back, then taking the slow bus journey back to the hostel.
I had an horrendous journey from Seattle to Mexico City!!!!!!!!!
I had to get up at 3.15 am in order to be ready for the Airport Shuttle that arrived around 3.40 am. I got to the Airport about 5 am, it was already very busy.
I had a problem going through their check-in system, the official put my backpack into a huge plastic bag. I went straight to Security, had a problem getting through there, had to go through a second Security check, the girl signed my boarding pass and sent me on my way. I took the train to my gate and waited for one and half hours for the gate to opened. I was one of the last to be called. I gave my boarding pass to the official, started walking down the tunnel then he called me back. He said he couldn`t let me on the plane because my boarding pass was marked "Security Risk", and I needed a stamp to say I was cleared.
I had to go all the way back on the train to the Security Section to be checked over again and get back to the Departure Gate in less than 10 minutes. The plane was due to leave for San Francisco at 7 am. I got back at 7.01 am and just saw my plane taxi away from the terminal with my luggage still on board. If I was a Security Risk why was my luggage still on board ??????
Anyway, they put me on another airline going to LA instead, where I had to transfer to another Terminal in LA for a plane to Mexico City, schedules to arrive at 7 pm instead of 5 pm. Then, I had a problem trying to let my friend Margaret, who was to be meeting me in Mexico City, know that I was going to be 2 hours late. Eventually a very sweet American girl kindly let me use her cellphone.
At LA Airport I had two more security checks plus iris check and explosives check. Total number of security checks, 8 times. I really must look dodgy !!??!!
No more problems until about to land at Mexico City Airport. The plane had to circle the airport twice because of heavy rain and it was too dangerous to land.
At this stage, I was in no mood to mess around with Airport Officials, I went straight through the VIP Customs Counter with my pilots, and after speaking to 7 airport officials I managed to report my luggage being in San Francisco and me in Mexico.
How I ever managed to stay calm and charming throughout this ordeal I will never understand? I can only put it down to all my years if Pyscho-Therapy Training.
Margaret and I went out for lunch with a Mexican lady named Rocio, she was a BBC Reporter in her younger days but now is a Sculptor and Radio Presenter in Mexico City.
Rocio took us to a restaurant in Polanco, the part of Mexico City that Margaret lived in a very smart apartment.
Polanco is a nice neighbourhood with art galleries, restaurants, hotels and embassies. The main street Masaryk is lined with shopping malls, and exclusive international boutiques.
Later we took a walk to the City`s Central Park. It is enmorous with lakes, a 14th Century Castle and Museums. Mexico City has 22 million people and many of then were spending Sunday afternoon in the Park.
Bosque de Chapultepec is the name of the Park. It is 1,600 acres of green space, woods, cyclists, joggers, horse riders and families have an afternoon picnic. We saw street entertainers, Aztec Dancers and the famous Mexican "Flight of the Voladores".
I had my first experience on the Mexican Underground train system, which is much like the London System but more lively. Street Sellers come onto the trains trying to sell their goods, they play music, or sing. There are also carriages set aside for women and children only.
We took the train to the old historic area of Zocalo. It is the largest main square in Latin America. It houses the Cathedral Metropolitana, Sagrario Chapel, Temple Mayor and Polacio Nacional. It is used for government rallies and many demonstrations.
The historic plaza was built by the Spaniards, using local staves.
Zocalo is the heart of the Centro Historico, and many sights are on the plaza boarders. At the plaza I was interviewed by 3 Mexican Students who wanted to know my impressions of Mexico City from a tourist point of view.
We went back onto the Underground to go to another part of the city called Zona Rosa. A tourist area where stores, hotels, travel agents and restaurants line the avenues, just east of the City Park.
Zona Rosa was once a cultural area of 29 square blocks, most of the buildings were built in 1920`s as homes or the well to do. All the street are named after European Cities. The garden-lined pedestrian malls are accented with contemporay bronze statues.
On the way home we walked via the park where we found an exhibition of the work of artist Leonora Carrington, it also told the story of her interesting life in photographs.
We took a tour of the City on board the open topped Turibus, starting from the Monument of Independence. The bus took us first down the main Reforma Road with its 77 sculptures, its many monuments, churches and museums.
The bus took us passed the very modern buildings and the very old historic ones. The City, I discovered, has a Zoo, a Fairground, a beautiful Palace of Fine Arts, a Castle , and Auditorium and the spectacular fountain called Fuente de la Diane Cazadore (Hunting Diane Fountain).
It has a statue of a Huntress on top of the fountain, the creation of Juan Olaguibel (1942). When the officials first saw that the statue was a naked woman they were scandalized and insisted that a metal skirt be put on her. Then in 1967 it was decided that it would now be alright to undress her again.
We got off the bus as Condesa, an international area with lots if buildings in the continental style. It had a bohemain feel. We sat at a sidewalk table watching the hip young men and women go by.
We then made our way to the charming nearby "Park of Mexico".
We took the Underground train again to the Coyeacan area of Mexico City. It is a historical part of the town with a special provincial charm.
we walked through the Viveros (Plant Nursery) whes of birds, squirrels and joggers.
Coyeacan has had many illustrious residents from Mexico`s rich and intellectual elite living in the area, amongst them the exiled Leon Trotsky who met his violent death in the area.
Margaret and i visited his house on 19 Viena, Mexico City, where we learnt about his life, the persecution that the Trotsky family and followers suffered. All the family was annihilated in the wave of terror. Despite their suffering they remained firm in their revolutionary activities and to the International Labour Movement and all lost their lives except Natalia Sedova, Trotsky`s second wife who survived until 1962.
Trotsky`s two daughters, their husbands and children, his first wife Alexandra Sokolovskaya, his two sons and Trotsky all lost their lives.
In his exile he was kept in 7 different locations but he ended up in Mexico City where he bought a house with funds donated by the Social Workers Party of US. He lived there from May 1939 until his death in August 1940. He survived an attempt on his life in the May 1940 but a journalist, Julian Girkin who had befriended him, killed him with a blow to the head with a ice axe a few months later.
From the museum we walked to the town square where we fund it was undergoing a major redevelopment, but we did manage to find a quiet roadside cafe.
Margaret and I made our way to the Coach Station to pick up a bus to the ancient City of Teotihuancan which is North of Mexico City.
It is the capital of one of the most unique civilizations of human history. The gigantic metropolis, with a particularly dense and multi-ethnic population, owed its splendar to its position as a craft and commercial hub, as well as its military power.
The scenery to Teotihuacan Pyramids, once out of the City, was industrial then agricultural with mountains as a backdrop. Many of the mountains close to Mexico City were covered in houses, some very smart and some little more than a hovel.
The weather was a pleasant warm and sunny with some cloud. A birds eye view from the top of the biggest pyramid called the Sun, (I climbed the Citadel, the Sun and the Moon Pyramids because I can), revealed a grid where thousands of rectangle - walled apartment compounds were grouped into districts. The main religious and palatial structures, and what was the market place were concentrated in the centre of the city flanking the Street of the Dead. All are ruins now, of course.
The City was originally established in 151-1 BC, was 6 - 7 km and had a population of 20 - 30,000 people. Three Quarters of the Basin of Mexico`s inhabitants migrated to the Teotihuacan Valley. In AD 550-650 the population began to fall from 1000,00 people and was violently attacked and set on fire. Nobody seems to know why or by whom?
Today, found us again making our way to the Coach Station for a bus to Puebla. It was a pretty drive through agricultural, mountainous and forestry countryside. It took about 2 hours to get there. It was very cloudy on the way and then rained heavily when we arrived. It was a taxi ride from the station to the city.
Puebla is a colonial town that is the capital of the state of Puebla. It is a beautiful city that is bursting with baroque flourishes and the colours of its famed Talavera tiles. It is the fourth largest city in Mexico and over flows with religious structures. It probably has more more ex-convents, monasteries, chapels and churches per square mile than anywhere else in Mexico. The valley of Puebla is said to have 224 churches and 10 convents and monasteries in its heyday in the 19th Century. It was also an important City in Mexican history because of the Battle in May 1862 resulting in a short lived victory against the French invaders. During May many Bullfights are held in Puebla but I missed them. With its 2 million population it remains a prosperous town.
As it was raining heavily we decided to get on the Turibus which took us around the City for a couple of hours enabling us to see the sights, learn about the history and keep dry.
The return journey to Mexico City was much longer because of the rain, the traffic, and the fact that the Toll Gate Barrier hit our plus new bus, giving it a nasty dent.
Margaret and I found ourselves heading North East out of Mexico City, with a Mexican friend, to the little unspoilt town in the mountains of Real de Monte, near the big towns of Pachuca and Tulancingo. It is a popular spot for local Mexico City residents.
The journey took about 2 hours by car, it was very cloudy and the clouds got blacker as we approached the mountains. We were to be staying at a Spa Hotel a little outside the town of Real de Monte. It was a beautiful rustic hotel surrounded by the forest clad hills, sheep, donkeys, horses and a small stream running nearby.
We were there to attend a HASH weekend. For those who don`t know "HASH" or "Hash House Harriers" is a cross country running club made up of girls and guys who are more interested in drinking than running. It is based on the old schoolboy game of "Hare and Hounds". The hounds chase the hares, who have left a trail along the route, across fields, hedges, streams and hills etc. It was my first time so I really didn`t know what to expect.
The aim is, it would appear, for the hound to follow the trail laid by the hare with the ultimate goal of reaching the alcoholic refreshments at the end. Well, I rather feel the group had a good sample of the refreshments before they started.
By the time the run finally got going, a storm had blown in and it had started to rain heavily. We all had to run wearing black dust bin bags in order to keep us from getting soaked. (It didn`t work very well). The trail through the forest was very slippery with all the wet leaves. The little stream had become a torrent. The rain continued to lash down. We had to diversify because it became a bit dangerous. We went instead to a nearby disused Silver Mine.
According to School Teacher, James, who has researched the area, the original owners of the mine had a tough time getting Mexican workers to go down in the dark wet mine. On the windward side of the mountain in the State of Hidalgo this area gets a lot of rainfall. So the owners went to Wales and hired British Miners, who were used to working in wet cold conditions. They had a wonderful time 180 years ago and the number of family names like Manning and Williams attests to the fact that they stayed.
Real de Monte or Royal Mountain was a truly lovely place. It reminded me very much of Scotland with the hills, the forest and the rain. I had a wonderful time and lots and lots of fun.
I managed to get up in time for breakfast. On the way to the restaurant one of the chaps told me that American School Teacher, James, had got so drunk that he had fallen in the river and was found asleep on the riverbank. He was in a very bad way.
It was, I found out later, just a hoax to make me feel bad because I had borrowed his hot tub the night before and walked off with his key still in my pocket, leaving him locked out of his room all night. When I got to the restaurant I found him fit and well, and happily eating his breakfast.
Whilst, I was franticly searching the town looking for him the night before, he was in bed snoring, knocked out by the afternoons activities and vast quantities of alcohol he had drunk. (The hotel had let him into his room). I am very gullible sometimes.
After breakfast, we all went out to explore the area going first to a nearby village called Vulcanizandra. We walked around the village, tried the local brew, visited the Sunday Market, met an American girl who was married to a Mexican Ranch owner, and taught English. She invited us to visit the ranch further up the mountain, but unfortunately we were unable to find it despite all our efforts.
For lunch we went into Real de Monte for some of their famous Pasties. Here, we met a sweet little girl of around 9 years old. She came up to my friends and asked if they wanted "Pulque", a local drink. My friends refused her offer but she insisted. It was a gift for the visitors. she had just started learning to speak English and wanted to converse with the foreigners. My friends did accept her precious gift of friendship and pulque, and I did help them drink it. It had a banana flavour and was quite palatable.
Later Margaret and I returned to Mexico City with the girls whilst the chaps went on the bus.
We had a late start mainly because of our hectic weekend. Upon our return to Mexico City yesterday, Margaret and I were invited for drinks with Mr. Jimmy who lives in the apartment block next door. He is the British Embassy Security Manager for the whole of Latin America. An Englishman from the North of England and ex-British Army. We didn`t return home until 2 am, but it was fun.
We went shopping in Polanco, then went back to Margaret`s flat to get ready for a Dinner Party she was giving for some friends. Sarah who works at the Irish Embassy and her Australian husband. We had a good meal, a nice evening and yet another late night.
Today, we had a Breakfast Bash to attend at the house of Patricia, a Scottish lady who has lived in Mexico City for more than 30 years. He husband is a retired accountant, she has two grown up sons. One is a Banker living in New York with his wife and child. The other son is disabled but works as a Psychologist. Her house was in Saville, near Zona Rosa in Mexico city.
Also at breakfast were two ladies from New Zealand who have both also lived in Mexico for several years, and a Mexican lady who now lives in Germany. We had a typical Mexican breakfast which Patricia put on especially for me. It was delicious!
Later, I expressed a wish to visit the Castle and History Museum, so we made our way to the nearby Bosque de Chapultec Park but both Castle and Museum were closed for cleaning.
We went instead to the Botanic Gardens, the orchid House and the Monument to the Boy Heros who wrapped themselves in the Mexican Flag and jumped to their deaths rather than surrender to the Americans during the US Invasion in 1847. This war cost Mexico half of its territory - the present states of Texas, California, Arizona, New Mexico and Nevade.
I finally made it to the Castle on my last day in Mexico City, and I wasn`t disappointed.
We spent the afternoon exploring the beautiful buildings on the hill, the former Presidential Palace, the magnificent roof garden, the grounds and the museum where I learnt about the history and culture of Mexico.
I discovered that Mexico has had a varied and interesting history with a rich culture. It is neither indigenous nor Spanish but a fusion of the two cultures. Although it belongs to the group of nations known as Latin America, its history is very different to that of the rest. It had to lose a sixth of its inhabitants to achieve Liberty and Independence.
The history museum told the story of the Country`s beginnings in the days of the Aztec rulers and the early cultures through to the arrival of the Spanish from Europe, the rebellions, the loss of their territory, the French Invasion, the Empire with Maximilian as the head, the Mexican Revolutions and the closer ties with the USA in the 1990`s.
Upon leaving the Castle we visited another Gallery of History which told us the same stories but in little models, a museum of photographs telling the history of the Park between 1860 - 1930, and a street exhibition of photographs on Latin America and its culture.
I returned to the UK after a trouble free night flight from Mexico City to Heathrow, London.
I was sorry to leave Mexico, I found the people warm and welcoming and the City not as daunting as I was led to believe. It was an interesting place rich in history and culture, and I made lots of lovely new friends. Like all the places I have visited on this particular World Trip I just didn`t have enough time to explore everything. I guess I have to leave something for the next visit.
Although, this journey which started June 14 2007 has gone the full circle I have no intentions of stopping traveling for at least another year. I have given my Letting Agent instructions to find a tenant for my cottage and I will be exploring the UK, Ireland and Europe for the next 6 months then hopefully making my way back the US and South America.
I have had a truly wonderful year, been to some fascinating places, done lots of things I never in my wildest dreams thought I would ever do, met lots of lovely interesting people and found lots of new interests. All my family and friends have been so supportive throughout the whole of my trip and have kept things going for me whilst I have been away. I do thank you all from the bottom of my heart for what you have done. I hope I will catch up with many of you within the next few weeks.
I am currently staying in beautiful Dorset, and have already embarked upon the mammoth task of identifying the hundreds of photographs I posted home from various parts of the world. I will keep you posted so please do keep an eye on "Get Jealous" from time to time. Thank you so much for continuing to read about my adventures during the year, it gave me courage, enthusiasm, kept me focused and I got enormous pleasure out of having you there to share in my experiences.
God Bless you.
I am currently staying with my son Nick and his girlfriend Deborah near Bournemouth. They moved from Colchester in Essex last August when Deborah secured a job with a Girls School where is teaches English. Being a journalist Nick is able to work from home and I am at the moment camping out in his office. The upside of it is I get to use his computer when he is in bed.
Their flat is very close to the sea and I have visions of me walking or running along the coast path every day, but not today. I still haven`t got accustomed to the change to my body clock or got over my night time flight. I hardly slept on the flight, my friend gave me a book about Mexican History to read on the flight but I watched 3 films instead.
The flight was trouble free, I walked straight through the customs, my luggage come up quickly and I was out of the airport in no time. It seemed strange because I was on early morning time but it was already middle of the afternoon.
I was given my first real English meal of Sausage, Mash and Onion Gravy. What a welcome home!!
My son and I got up early so we could travel to Brentwood in Essex in time to see my little five-year-old Grandson, Harrison play football. I am not sure if he was more excited about me coming home after a year away or me going to watch him play football.
After his football we went back to his house with his Mummy who is Nina my daughter and Mark my son-in-law. He jumped into my arms, looked into my eyes, studied my face and said "You are not the same Nannie, you are a different Nannie!"
I guess he is right, I am not the same person who went away 12 months ago, I have experienced so much it has got to have changed me in some way. I have changed physically and spiritually. My character has no doubt changed. I am calmer, more self assured, have different values and interests.
Later than evening we attended a Bar-B-Q to celebrate the birthday of a friend at his family home which is a farm in Abridge, Essex. I had forgotten how beautiful the English countryside can be. From the garden we had magnificent views of the surrounding country. We left the Party at 2 am.
It is Father Day. We had a late start because of our late night. We all drove off to a relative in South Woodford, in the London area where we had lunch in their beautiful English Garden. It was a pleasant afternoon, the sun was shining, the garden was in full bloom and the huge fish in the very large but attractive pond were happily swimming around.
Late afternoon Nick and I returned to Bournemouth via the New Forest. The weather changed along the route, it looked as if it had been raining but the forest looked lush and very green. I remembered that many people especially from US had praised the beautiful English Countryside ad I have to agree it is magnificent.
I spent the day shopping.
During my year of travel, although I visited many markets, I always avoided buying things because I just couldn`t carry anything more. Most of the stuff I did carry, I am sure, I didn`t need. I always took the clothes out that were nearest the top of my pack, and the ones at the bottom never saw the light of day.
Now that I am stationary for a few weeks, I though I could think about exchanging a few things. I started my shopping expedition in Southbourne where I am staying, and I visited every charity, antique, dress and shoe shop along the route to Boscombe, the next town along the coast.
At the end of the day I returned via the Park and the Coast Road happy with a few bargains in my bag.
I had a little gardening job this morning, it didn`t pay much but it was a sunny day, the birds were singing and I was happy pottering around. My task was to clean up the garden refuse and bag it ready for transit to the local dump.
I picked up some tree cuttings which looked as if they had been sitting around for a while in a heap. To my horror I found underneath the heap hundreds and hundreds of juicy, well matured slugs. I didn`t have the heart to kill them, they looked quite happy crawling around, but i did have to remove them. I put them into a black plastic bin bag. They didn`t seem to appreciate it very much because they were trying to escape. As soon as I pushed one back into the bag, another would appear. It is surprising how quickly they can move. I had a fight on my hands to keep them in the bag.
Eventually, I managed to get them all in the bag and deposit them in the bust bin. Hopefully, it will hold them but I wouldn`t be surprised if they don`t manage to escape, they are slimy little rascals.
After finishing my gardening job I decided to take a walk along the coastal path towards Hengistbury Head, where I came across the Iron Age Double Dyke.
Hengistbury Head is internationally important in terms of its archaeology. 125,000 years ago (a bit before my time) it was occupied by hunter-gatherers who camped there as they followed the migrating herds of animals. Horses and reindeer provided skins for clothes and shelters, bone and antlers for tools and meat.
The sea would have then been many miles away and Hengistbury, a hill inland overlooking a river valley. Sophisticated flint tools from 9,500 years ago were excavated in the area during the late 20th Century.
In the bonze age 3,500 years ago, the headlands were used as a Cemetery. Large earth mounds can still be seen, as can evidence of a large defense known as the Double Dyke which would have been built over a long period of time. In those days they would have exported slaves, hunting dogs and precious metals in return for luxury items like wine, olives and glass. At the time Hengistbury would probably have been Britains most important Port.
The Hengistbury Head Nature Reserve is home for around 500 different species of plants, 600 species of moths, 16 species of breeding dragon flies, and there is also a breeding ground for the Natterjack Toad. This toad can be distinguished by its yellow strip along its back. Unlike other Euphamptubian it runs in order to hunt its prey, preferring short turf and dry sandy areas where it can excavate burrows for protection in the daytime and hibernation in the winter. The call of the male is the loudest in Europe, they say, it can be heard 2 km away at dusk.
Unfortunately, I never managed to find one, it was probably to cold for them. The weather changed drastically over night. The lovely sunny weather was been replaced by cold gusty winds. Hopefully the warm weather will return soon and the Natterjack Toad will be happy again.
The sun was shining again today. I decided a walk along the coastal path would be good. I walked towards Boscombe Pier where I could see there was a lot of building work going on.
The Pier entrance is a grade II listed building apparently, and it has recently been completely refurbished to an exacting standard, public artwork has been commissioned, and it has been re-landscaped with an Edwardian Terrace Garden to transform it as part of an innovative seafront attraction. A new beach complex, originally built in 1958, is also being re-designed in order to provide a year-round Leisure facility, together with an artificial reef, catering for watersports enthusiasts in the Winter and traditional visitors in the Summer.
The Bournemouth Surf Reef in Boscombe will be one of four artificial reefs worldwide - Narrowneck, Queensland; Cables, Western Australia and Mt. Maunganic, New Zealand being the others.
The reef will be located to the east of Boscombe Pier and the submerged reef will take up approximately one hectare (the size of a football pitch) which will be 225 metres from the shoreline. The reef mimics the effects of a natural reef and will be built from large geo-textile bags pumped with sand.
The artificial reef is designed to create bigger waves and better surfing. The large bags laid on the the seabed act like a giant ramp, pushing the natural waves upwards as they crest over the reef, shaping them into good quality surfing waves. They say it should greatly improve surfing conditions and the number of surfing days, when swells are greater then 0.5 metres. In calm weather, the reef should create a lagoon along the shoreline for safe swimming.
The whole project is due to be completed by October 2008, in time for the Winter season.
It all sounds very exciting, although I am not a surfer myself. The upside of it is we don`t have any man-eating sharks in the UK, the downside the Atlantic Ocean is so darned cold. Good luck Boscombe, I hope all goes well.
I discovered that Hengistbury had its own Mine in the mid-1800`s when Ironstone boulders or doggers which formed the foundation of the headland were mined from a Quarry and the foreshore. The doggers were taken in horse drawn carts and waggons to the Docks, loaded into small sail powered barges for distribution.
This open cast mining apparently considerably weakened the headland with one third lost to the sea since then. A dam has been created at the North end of the Quarry in order to reduce erosion and to prevent silt from washing down into the fragile saltmarsh. The Quarry Pond was formed in 1976 using Ironstone boulders at one end to trap the water.
The Pond, I thought, was well hidden within the Nature Reserve. I only managed to find it by walking along a quiet path between the wild heather and ferns, but no doubt there is an easier way to it.
Today is the longest daylight day in the year but it is more like Winter than Summer. It is dull, dreary, drizzly and chilly. I am beginning to wish I was back in California, the only country where I had fine, warm sunny days all the time.
During the afternoon I took a walk to nearby Pokesdown, another suburb of Bournemouth. It is a residential area with many big old houses built around the 1800`s, when it would have been a prosperous area. There is a one very big old building which dominates the main street that serves as the Pokesdown Centre, built in 1893. It looks like it may have been a school or town hall perhaps at some time. Pokesdown also has its own railway station and an inordinate number of antique, curio, charity and secondhand shops. In fact, I think it is possible to buy another old along this main street.
I saw a shops selling Vintage Clothes, Collectable Toys, Antique Doll`s, Old Hi-Fi`s, Musical Instruments, Cameras, TV`s, CD`s, Watches, Coins, Electrical Household Equipment, Furniture, Jewellery, and I even found a shop advertising that they buy old Video`s for cash which seemed to be very popular. Further down the road was a busy Market.
I spend the whole afternoon searching for that special something but I never found anything I couldn`t life without.
Lymington in Hampshire is reported to be the best coastal town in which to live in the UK. So my son, Nick and his girlfriend took me to have a look.
It is an ancient seaport and historic market town. Lymington was once of greater importance than Portsmouth and played a major part in defending the South Coast against the French invasion, as many references to Nelson and his fleet would indicate.
The cobbles of the old town led to a High Street with many quaint shops and traditional tea shops, pubs and restaurants.
There were some great walks along the tidal salt marshes, which are apparently, designated as of Special Scientific Interest and they make up 10 miles of Nature Reserve.
It is still a busy fishing port with the Quay providing a scenic view for the constant arrival and departure of boats from the smallest dinghy to luxury yachts.
Just across the river, the car ferry service to Yarmouth on the Isle of Wight operates and we saw several pass-by as we walked along the coast paths. It was a great day out!
Today the Wimbledon Tennis Tournament started in London with a warm sunny day which is most unusual. It often rains during the two weeks that the events takes place. So fingers crossed!
Like many other tennis enthusiasts worldwide, I will, no doubt, be glued to the TV set watching the dramas unfold at this popular venue. Tickets are really difficult to obtain so no point making the journey to London for it. It is covered well by the TV companies, fortunately.
I know my friend Margaret in Mexico City will be rushing home from work to watch. If your favourite player is losing Margaret, a good remedy is a "White Lady". Gin, Cointreau and Lemon Juice, then another and another, until it no longer matters who wins !!??? Happy Viewing.
On the ferry going from the North Island to the South Island of New Zealand I met briefly, Jane.
Jane, from Christchurch in the UK was making her way to Christchurch in NZ. We kept each other company during the 3 hour journey. I was making my way to the Abel Tasman National Park.
At Picton we parted company with a promise to meet up again in the UK if ever I was in the area. We did meet again on the beach today and spent a most enjoyable afternoon exchanging travel experience.
We are no longer passing strangers but firm friends.
It is officially the happiest day of the year in the UK. Despite the recession, falling house prices, the rising cost of living and ll the other doom and gloom.
I read that more than a third of us Britons are happy 75% of the time. The Happiness Project - behind the BBC`s land mark QED documentary "How to be Happy" which has now been seen by more than 30 million viewers (minus one) in 16 countries - say "Today`s date around the summer solstice and there is no doubt that the weather encourages happiness (warm and sunny in Southbourne).
"But to be really happy you have to look at the small things in life", it suggests. "It`s an ironic thing that the happiest are those who can put value each day into smaller things, like sharing good conversation". (I agree).
Their top 10 happiest moments were as follows:
1. Getting a nice message from a loved one.
2. Getting into bed with clean sheets.
3. Waking up on a sunny morning.
4. Getting a quiet moment to yourself.
5. A warm bubble bath at the end of a stressful day.
6. Eating a cake.
7. Having a picnic in a park on a sunny day.
8. Getting praise from your boss after working hard.
9. Drinking a cold beer after work.
10. Driving with the window down on a sunny day.
What`s yours????
I had a happy day - doing my favourite things, friends called early evening, we had a few glasses of wine and lots of laughs. I ended the day with a walk along the seafront with Deborah.
I took the bus along the coast to Poole. Poole covers 25 square miles including stretches of Poole Harbour and Poole Bay, its nature boundaries are River Stour to the North, the harbour and sea to the South, the Roman Road to the North, the barren land of what was Bournemouth Heath to the East. It`s history can be traced to the Stone Age.
I visited the beautiful Poole Park, the Quay, the Old Town and the Shopping Centre. The Park was created on land given in 1885 by Sir Ivor Bertie Guest to use as a "Peoples Park". It was opened in 1890 by the Price of Wales. The Ceremony had to take place in the booking office of the Railway Station because of a terrific storm.
The park consists of 5 ornamental gateways, roads and footpaths surrounding a large saltlake, a smaller freshwater lake and a dusk pond, as well as another 50 acres of grassland, shrubs, flower beds and trees.
I walked around the lake, had a chat with the ducks and made my way to the Quay. At the Quay I found evidence of a thriving fishing industry, many small dingles as well as larger Ocean going boats, a ferry service, and many cruising boats offering holidaymakers trips around the bay.
The Old Town had many quaint old buildings used as inns, shops and restaurants that, no doubt, could tell many a story of bygone years.
I attended the Avonbourne Girls School Summer Fayre this evening. It was a typical English summer day, windy and chilly with a few dark clouds.
The weather didn`t stop the girls and their parents enjoying the fun of the side shows outside in the school grounds. For me though the highlight was inside with the indoor performances given by the school`s song and dance groups. The show was stolen, however, by the guest stars, an extremely talented South African Renaissance Marimba Band playing excellent African music.
The band consisted of 5 young men who have only been playing together for four months, but individually for much longer. They all attend Camps Bay High School in Cape Town, outh Africa. The lads were in the area to take part in a fund raising concert called `Footprint for Africa` being staged on Saturday in Bournemouth.
I spent all day at the computer organising the 5,000 plus photographs I took since starting my travels in June 2007. It was a mammoth task but I really enjoyed reliving the experience through the pictures.
Tomorrow I leave Dorset for the wilds of Essex for a bit. I am going to be gypsying around the UK, Ireland and Europe for the next few months. I will, of course, keep you updated but probably on a less frequent basis. Should you wish to contact me please do not hesitate to go to my email address - jean.hawkins2@ntlworld.com or www.facebookmail.com. I will be really pleased to hear from you.