Tickets are booked, a rough plan has been made and there are only 2 weeks to go. My heart is starting to race at the thought of being back in NZ and seeing my good old friend Louise. So many things to do - some relaxing diving and sun worship in the beautiful Bay of Islands to start with, followed by some tramping in the volcanic central plateau of the north island and a sky dive in Taupo if I`m brave enough. Finally a visit to lovely Wellington to see some family before departing for the south island to swim with dolphins, sea kayak around the Abel Tasman and hopefully meet up with Malc in Christchurch.
Two weeks to go, stuff to buy, an iPod to load up and some packing to do. Ho hum, how will I cope?
Here at last and the sun is shining and cicadas singing. But before I tell you about the sunshine and beaches, Id like to share with you my top tips for getting through long haul flights.
Rule number 1 - check before you book how many stops therell be and dont just take the airlines website or travel agents word for it, check and triple check for yourself. Each time you land youll need to disembark, go thro security, wait in an airport arrivals lounge, re-board the plane and then wait some more while those annoying people that wander too far are found. Or you can take the option I did in Singapore and stay on the plane to try to catch another hours sleep. The challenge here is to avoid the cleaning crew as they tidy around you and pray the disinfectant spray pumped thro the plane to kill every germ known to man and then some doesnt leave your nose bleeding and your eyes streaming.
Rule No 2 Book with a nice airline that understands the value of good onboard service. Good indicators are that people dont wince when you tell them who youre flying with and youve heard of the stopover places and can find them easily on a map. Luckily I booked Emirates and their entertainment system alone was a life saviour TVs in the back of the seats with films, games, news updates, SMS and phone plus even cameras showing you the pilots view! What more could you ask for? On top of that the edible food with recognisable vegetables and nutritional content and un-snooty cabin crew were a real bonus.
Rule No 3 - Do not, under any circumstances, let them sit you on the back row of the plane. This is where the cabin crew hang out and also where stroppy passengers try to pick a fight because they dont like the brand of orange onboard. My advice tell them you had a difficult flight last time and youd be really grateful if they could find you a middle seat with some empty seats next to it. Worked for me in Dubai so I found myself with 3 seats and enough room to lie down and sleep for the next 5 hours. Sleeping is so much easier when youre horizontal.
Rule No 4 Essential onboard items to pack - mints to combat the overly air conditioned environment, ear plugs to drown out the air conditioning units and screaming children, a pillow cos the one they give you will not stay fluffy for more than 4 hours, music cos their choice isnt exactly for everyone and a gas mask (see Rule 1).
Rule No 5 - Lastly, and most importantly, just remember that however long and traumatic your flight is, the whole experience will be forgotten by the following morning after youve showered and had a glass of wine or 2. If you can manage to throw in some Pimms, a hot spa and delicious meal too then I guarantee it will all melt away sooner then you could imagine. And that leaves you with the reason you went thro all that paraphernalia in the first place a long holiday with time to enjoy sun, beaches, good friends and absolutely no work for a month!
I really could have got used to the spa`s and beach at Lou and Jamie`s, not to mention their great hospitatiliy. It was also lovely to catch up with friends Tina, Robbie and Stef to see how they`re settling in over here. However, adventure called so I picked up some wheels and drove north up the coast. I passed some beautiful vistas and stopped more than once to take a few shots, including Pakiri where I took a stroll along a white sandy beach and stopped at the Crushed Pipi Restaurant for a delicious spicy falafel salad. Driving in NZ is a complete joy and the roads are wonderful. Plus my car has power steering and brakes that don`t need to be told twice (no offence to your car Tim!). Of course when you go off the beaten track a little it has a tendency to turn into a gravel track but heh, that`s part of the fun - driving 20km/hr for 30km to avoid too many gravel chips to the paintwork of your hire car!
I reached the Bay of Islands on Thurs night and am lucky enough to be staying in Jack`s Bay with a friend of a friend called Carl, and his daughter Ginelle and son Rob. They have a gorgeous wooden house perched on a hill in 20 acres of land with sheep and horses plus 2 fluffy cats and a huge poodle pup (3 ft tall!) called Ben. Yesterday I wandered around the picturesque town of Russell, which has a line of 19th century houses along the waterfront with a pier and a number of small bays. I ventured over the wooded hill to Long Beach where the wind was headed straight in off the sea so there was quite a chill. Luckily, having learned now to smother every inch of me in factor 25 I avoided burning. My forearms are still recovering from driving but so far I think I`ve avoided any serious sunburn. Of course there`ll be plenty of opportunity today as we going out for a horse ride. Me on a horse! I hear you say. Well yes, it`s going to be an experience. My last experience on a horse was actually more of an experience hitting the ground in a variety of catapaulted positions, but then again I was about 8yrs old and me and a friend did break into a paddock and tried to ride a horse bare back with no experience! Hopefully this time I`ll do a little better.
Well I`m still here in the Bay of Islands despite only aiming to spend a couple of days here but hey, I`m on holiday. Having spent yesterday just chilling in the field a little hungover, I decided to get a little more active today. So went out for a fantastic sail on a huge (72ft) racing catamaran, courtesy of Carl`s cousin Lily (thanks Lil!). Weather was great - sunny with some cloud and fairly good wind for sailing. But more importantly goo weather for topping up the tan, which is coming along nicely I might add. The boat took us out of Russell and around some of the other islands. We passed the spot where Captain Cook first came upon the Bay of Islands and heards stories of gruesome skurmishes between locals and visitors. For lunch we pulled up at a cove and had a BBQ on the boat - nice. Then had a choice of kayaking, snorkelling, walking or knee boarding (like water skiing but on your knees). I chose snorkelling and desperately went in search of sting rays which we were told were around. But sadly I saw none, although I did see some fish, a star fish, sea cucumbers and lots and lots of anenamies.
After lunch the crew rigged up what they called a hilliard jump - that`s where you take the rope from the top of the main sail, tie it to a dingy and give someone a loopin the middle to keep hold of. Then the dingy drives away fromthe cat, hoisting the hanger-on up into the air until they let go and are catapaulted up and into the water - crazy. The rest of us just kicked back and lounged on the trampeline of the boat
On the way back we were lucky enough to see a pod of dolphins that played with our boat for quite a long time jumping and diving. They`re tricky charachters to capture on camera tho so apologies for the dodgy photos. A bit of editing back home should sort that out. A few of us met up afterwards in Paihia for a drink and a lovely Norwichian barman made me a delicious, albeit green drink - now christened a John Boy. You`ll have to go to the Beach Hut on Kings Rd if you want to try it.
Not sure what`s in stall for tomorrow, maybe I`ll drive to Kerikeri which is supposed to be nice. Or maybe I"ll just hang out and walk along the beach.
The past week or so has been idyllic. After the sailing trip I spent Weds exploring the bays around the area, including a small Maori town called Rawhiti and a beautiful walk up to Whangamumu Nature Reserve. It wasn`t a hard walk but it was rugid and cleansing for the soul. Just over an hour trekking across meadow and up and down hill thro the bush, I rounded the last corner and the track twisted back up again so I could finally see blue sky peaking thro the tree canopy. As I rounded the brough of the hill the trees parted to reveal a lush green meadow rolling down to golden sand and turquoise waters. Gnarly pohutakawa trees lined the beach, their spiny roots reaching thro the sand like craggy fingers and three yachts were moored just off shore. The scene was certainly worth the exertion.
I also took a drive up north thro Kerikeri - home to fruit orchards and fresh produce - through Doubtless Bay and up to the Karikari Peninsular, staying on a rather wind swept Rangiputa Beach. I carried on round the coast, taking in pretty Matai twin bays and the long Tokerau Beach but sadly the visibility was too bad to really appreciate 90 mile (63 actually!) so I just took a look at Ahipara which is the base of it. It was still impressive to see such a long beach even if I couldn`t seem half of it and despite the poor weather, there were still some hardy Kiwis fishing in the surf. On thro quiet Herekino and then to quaint Kohukohu with its rickety old house belonging to the `bird man` and the wrecked old American truck on the old wharf that had been sinking slowly into the water over the past 20 yrs. I found the most delectable mochachino in the waterfront cafe made by pouring steaming milk over real ground chocolate - yum! I also stumbled across a photographic exhibition by a local artist Marg something who also had an exhibition of pin hole pictures on the other side of the ferry crossing at Rawene. I travelled back from west to east, looping back to Kerikeri and stayed in beautiful Pagoda Lodge with its strong indochine influence evident in the spired building roofs and also the authentic Chinese furniture. My room was both beautiful and homely - I truly recommend this for anyone staying in the area and looking for something seriously more up market than a dorm. A lovely Japanese Bento meal at the local restaurant really finished off a perfect couple of days.
In the morning I took a stroll thro a woodland path down to NZ`s oldest stone and timber buildings, remnants of the first settlers in NZ back in early 19th century. After a breakfast of fresh oranges on the veranda of my cottage (boy I`m eating well out here) I hit the road again to see Hundertwasser`s famous tiled toilets at Kawakawa and finish off with a siesta and swim at the beach at Paihia.
I`ve now said goodbye to the Bay of Islands with more than a tear I can tell you. I had a truly amazing time up there and look forward to seeing it again soon. After a trip out west again to see the great Kauri trees along Kauri coast I`m now staying with Yvonne, Lou`s friend, in Whangarei and I`ve just had the most divine experience. More sensuous than being fanned by a gorgeous man and more delectable than even eating a Galaxy chocolate bar while wearing silk pyjamas. That;s right, a steamy HOT BATH. Now you may think that`s something you could have any time you choose but this wasn`t just any old hot bath, oh no. To enjoy a truly dreamy Kiwi bath you first need to get up really early, preferably after being woken even earlier by a text msg (thanks Jo!). Then you must drive miles, board a boat and set off in choppy waters. Just when the nausea has taken hold you don a damp wet suit and plunge yourself into freezing water to swim against currents and dive in search of exotic flora and fauna. Repeat with a luke warm cup of chicken cup a soup and then return on even choppier waters and drive back home in torrential rain before your eyes snap shut. Now run a hot bath with some sweet smelling bath oil, light some candles and immerse your aching shell of a body into the steamy water. Lie back and flick thro the images in your weary mind of brightly coloured snapper, kingfish and the eternally graceful sting ray basking on the sand. Oh yes.
I know it`s been a while since I`ve written anything and I`ve done so much, but it`s been hard justifying sitting in front of a computer when I could be outside in the sun or getting some shut eye ready for another day`s adventures - I know you understand. Anyway, after my dive and lots of lovely home cooked food from Yvonne, I left Whangarei and started my slightly belated drive south towards Wellington. There were a lot of miles to cover so I made a couple of stops. The first was in Te Awamutu where I sought out another of Yvonne`s recommendation, this time a lodge/backpackers off the beaten track called Castle Rock. And what a good recommendation it was too. It was a beautiful `ranch` style place with a separate 10 bed dorm away from the main house. Luckily there were only 5 of us staying - 3 Swedish girls and an English guy - so we had the run of the place. Apart from the converted barn/garage that was the dorm, there were also washing and shower rooms, a large kitchen with all fittings and conveniences and cosy lounge with full home ents system. Plus there was a spa pool over at the main house. The buildings were set among rolling fields with only some cows for neighbours and when I arrived the others were already enjoying some beers and chilling out to Jack Johnson (definately NZ`s theme at the moment). This is the heart of world class rock climbing country so the scenery was stunning - boulders and pinaccles of rock protruded from the ground around the ranch and there were sheer rock faces to challenge the discerning enthusiast. However I didn`t have time for any of that so after a sunny breakfast on the veranda with the cows, I hit the road again heading west out to New Plymouth and Mt Taranaki. This mountain is NZ`s own Mt Fuji and has even appeared as a stunt double for the real thing in some films. It`s also the most climbed mountain in the country, although I took a more leisurely approach to my visit. The drive there was the best yet and the landscape was significantly different to that up north as it was greener and less rugid. I passed through dense forest, along the edge of the deep Awakino Gorge and then out to the spectacular coast at Mokau with its stunning black sand beach. I found a lovely spot to take some photographs with a bleached pohutakawa tree trunk set against the black sand with the receding tide leaving pools of water reflecting the sheer blue sky (photos will follow just as soon as I can upload them).
I thought Mt Taranaki was beautiful with its snow capped peak rising clear above everything around it. I was pleased the weather had stayed fairly good so there were only a few clouds in the sky. I witnessed its majesty from across a lake of black swans and an army of ducks who were all after my crackers and cheese. As I enjoyed my civilised lunch in front of the lake I finally gave in and tossed a small piece of cracker to the ducks. After a blinding skirmish of beakks and feathers the lucky duck that grabbed it then spent the next 45mins being chased by the rest of the pack. Every few minutes he`d run past me clutching the cracker apparently unable to eat it and with the others hot on his tale. You had to to be there!
I ended my day in Wanganui, a river town of no particular interest but nice enough. It was here I met Tom from Banbury, hiding out in the lounge from a hoard of girl guide style marching girls (complete with matronly guardians) that had taken over our YHA. He became my travel buddy for the next few days since he was also heading to Wellington. In the morning we set off, stopping only for a windy lunch beside SH1. He had a friend to see in Wellington and I met up with my lovely second cousins Pam & Johnnie and their old dog Bodie. It was great to see them again and they showed me endless hospitality. I spent the following day being guided around the best sights in Wellington by Pam and surprisingly getting a good tan at the same time since the weather was suddenly gorgeous, although a little windy but that`s just typical of Wellington. We saw the old and new buildings of the town hall and council halls as well as the legendary Te Papa Museum. We were lucky enough to stumble across a band rehearsing for the Arts Festival concert that evening and heard a beautiful track accompanied by traditional Maori Poi dancing. Being the avid photographer that I am it was also a treat to see the EARTH FROM THE AIR photographic portrait exhibition by Yann Arthus-Bertrand set out along the harbour. That evening we all went to a 21st birthday party for the granddaughter of a friend of Pam and Johnnie`s and I was once again privilledged to experience great NZ hospitality.
After a slightly sad farewell to Pam and Johnnie the following day, I was back in my car with Tom and heading for the Art Deco capital of the world - Napier. THis place was flattened in 1931 by a devastating earthquake but luckily for architectural history it was therefore rebuilt almost entirely inthe 1930`s Art Deco style. It rained most of the way there but once we arrived it cleared and we found ourselves a bar to settle into. Having spent so much time relaxing I now felt ready to party a little but that was to prove a little more difficult than we thought since despite there being so many bars, they were all empty. THe whole place appeared to be strangely like a ghost town. Both Tom and I also seemed to lose all sense of direction and memory at this point and spent half the night trying to find the car, bar, backpackers etc. We did eventually settle down for some drinks and exchange travel stories over Guiness and red wine in an Irish Bar that seemed to have the most action.
For accommodation we contemplated staying in the local prison that had recently been transformed into a backpackers but decided the novelty of staying in a cell would probably wear off pretty quickly and since prisons aren`t exactly designed with space, comfort and sound proofing in mind we decided against it. The following morning we booked ourselves a tour of the Church Road winery and had a lovely lunch with proper posh nosh. Then we took the do-it-yourself walking tour of all the art deco buildings and were suitable impressed withthe style and character of the place. It was actually a really pretty and nice town to see and a worthwhile stop. The weather was very good also and we had high hopes for the event that was now looming ever closer - the Tongariro Crossing.
Right, sorry I now have to go and catch my flight. More later. C Y`all!
After a slightly sad farewell to Pam and Johnnie the following day, I was back in my car with Tom and heading for the Art Deco capital of the world - Napier. THis place was flattened in 1931 by a devastating earthquake but luckily for architectural history it was therefore rebuilt almost entirely inthe 1930`s Art Deco style. It rained most of the way there but once we arrived it cleared and we found ourselves a bar to settle into. Having spent so much time relaxing I now felt ready to party a little but that was to prove a little more difficult than we thought since despite there being so many bars, they were all empty. The whole place appeared to be strangely like a ghost town. Both Tom and I also seemed to lose all sense of direction and memory at this point and spent half the night trying to find the car, bar, backpackers etc. We did eventually settle down for some drinks and exchange travel stories over Guiness and red wine in an Irish Bar that seemed to have the most action.
For accommodation we contemplated staying in the local prison that had recently been transformed into a backpackers but after a quick tour of the cells, wardens offices and fitness area we decided the novelty of staying in a cell would probably wear off pretty quickly and since prisons aren`t exactly designed with space, comfort and sound proofing in mind we decided against it. Instead we found an Art Deco backpackers.
Being in the middle of Hawkes Bay, NZ`s largest wine growing area, the following morning we booked ourselves on a tour of the Church Road winery http://www.churchroad.co.nz/ to see how they made the stuff. A lovely chap gave us a tour of the facilities,, cellars and told us about the process used to turn grapes into wine and we then got to taste a selection of the results. V nice :o) We had to stay for lunch of course because by that point neither of us would have been capable of driving back and we were v pleased we did for the food was wonderful - proper posh nosh. And of course we had to each buy a momento from the day so I bought a lovely little dessert wine and Tom bought the aptly named `Tom` bordeau wine - hey Tom check this out, it has it`s own web page http://www.adwnz.co.nz/Pages/wines/our_wines/tom_1998.html. It`s a special bordeaux wine made to honour the pioneer NZ red wine maker and founder of the Church Rd Winery - Tom McDonald. Only 9720 bottles of the 1998 were made and I won`t tell you how much it cost but for a long-term traveller like Tom he could probabvly have lived off that for months! But it was his namesake and his birthday was on Fri (St Patrick`s Day) so he had an excuse, sort of.
Back in Napier we took the do-it-yourself walking tour of all the art deco buildings and were suitably impressed by the style and character of the place. We saw loads of great examples of art deco architecture, inside and out, and it felt a little like walking around a film set. It was actually a really pretty and nice town to see and a worthwhile stop. The weather was very good also and we now had high hopes for the event that was looming ever closer - the Tongariro Crossing.
Right, sorry I now have to go and catch my flight. More later. C Y`all!
Today was the most challenging day of my trip and probably my life! (at least in terms of adventurous pursuits). For today I, and two new friends, walked the Tongariro Crossing - 17km of gruelling hike across a barren but beautiful volcanic terrain. The trek is billed as NZ`s finest one day tramp and took us up and down a volcano. Actually not just any volcano of course - this was MOUNT DOOM from LOTR and NZ`s most active volcano! It last errupted in 1974 and it was about due for a repeat. It`s a moderate to challenging hike, depending on which brochure you read and how fit you are so for me, as you can imagine, it was bloody difficult (Dei - you could probably do this in your sleep). I was glad I had company and in truth, it it weren`t for them I probably wouldn`t have gone through with it. I met Frank, AKA The Dutchman, diving in Whangarei last week and he`d done a lot of this type of thing. In fact he told us he`d done a 23 day trek somewhere between Norway and the Arctic in freezing conditions. Clearly he was a nutter but I wasn`t going to hold that against him. Tom, as you know I`d `picked up` on my way to Wellington and although he hadn`t done as much trekking as Frank he came from good trekking stock cos his parents were semi professional walkers back home. So I knew I was in good hands for this and if the worst came to the worst I was confident they`d be able to carry me back.
We`d tried to be cunning and decided to take two cars so we could leave one at the end and drive the other round to the beginning of the walk. That way we weren`t dependent on the bus pick-up at 4.30 so the pressure was off and we could go at a relaxed pace. It was a good plan except we had a slight hurdle to overcome in the morning in that Tom and I weren`t staying in the place we`d told Frank to meet us and he`d had his phone turned off all night. So Tom and I ate a hearty muesli breakfast, packed up our all-weather clothing from shorts to fleeces and raincoats as well as enough food to last us a couple of days if need be, and headed out in the dark after Frank. An eerie moonlit mist hung over Lake Taupo and a sleepy peacefulness enveloped us as Tom drove us towards Tongariro National Park. As the day gradually broke, turning the sky amber, the morning chill wasn`t easily shaken so we thought we`d have a cold day ahead of us. It was daylight when we finally and with some luck met up with Frank in Turangi. We planted the cars as planned and by 8.30 we were on our way.
The first half hour was surprisingly flat and verdant with a stream running alongside the track. We were more or less on our own until we reached the foot of the first ascent where people had bunched up and we all clambered up the rocks together. My legs soon tired and we had to make frequent rest stops. Tom marched ahead while Frank and I paused and took photos. We`d then pass him further up perched on a lookout surveying the scene and we`d carry on together. We frequently looked back over our progress as we ascended and it already felt like we were in the middle of nowhere with no signs of man or civilisation to be seen.
Each time we looked onward there was little clue as to how far we had left to climb. Whenever we rounded what looked like the last ridge, another loomed menacingly behind it. After an hour or so we did finally reach the summit and caught our breath on a rock with all the other exhausted people like basking sea lions. We had climbed 1600m and reached the South Crater, a huge pit that had actually been carved by a glacier rather than an eruption. The views back to where we`d come from were spectacular and since it was such a clear day we could even see Mt Taranaki in the distance.
The sun had warmed the air by this point and due to our exertion we were feeling somewhat hot in our fleeces et al. I`ll let you in to a little secret here - I`d left my decent walking socks and trousers in Auckland with Lou while I went to the Bay of Islands and hadn`t stopped to pick them up on my way back through. So, since I only had light weight 3/4 length trousers on me and being a little scared that I was going to get cold, I`d slipped my silk pyjama bottoms on underneath and was sporting a lovely pair of Tom`s bright blue football socks. Oh yes, I looked fetching :o) Anyway, when we reached the summit I just had to remove my pyjamas from under my clothes to stop me melting so since there wasn`t a tree in sight and there were a lot of people I got more than a few strange looks as I tried to crouch behind a rock and look like I wasn`t going to the toilet.
Anyway, that done, we carried on our journey enjoying the flatness before the next ascent. The crater was a dusty yellow and ochra rock bed and it felt more like crossing the moon than any place on earth. A trail of people snaked into the distance; small and ant like ascending the rocks at the far end. To our left Mount Tongariro rose up and to our right the black conical shape of Mt Ngauruhoe/Mt Doom rose skyward. There were options to climb to the summits of both of these volcanoes for an additional 1.5 or 2 hrs respectively but we chose not to (no surprises there!). Instead we carried on towards the Red Crater, the highest point of the tramp at 1886m.
The next ascent was the most difficult because the track was part loose gravel, part small rocks. Our feet slid backwards on just about every step we took making it much harder work than before. Plus our legs were already aching from the last climb. We saw quite a few stupid people who had ignored the warnings and set out in sandals rather than proper walking shoes and they really seemed to be suffering now. More than once I found myself wondering if I could do this and whether I`d made a mistake but on we went, one foot in front of the other, just determined to get to the top. Luckily it was a shorter climb than before but it still took a good hour and lots of sweat. The reward at the top was definately worth the effort though cos not only could we see the now expansive panorama over the land we`d crossed, but to our right was the amazing Red Crater, so called because of the deep red iron oxide staining of the rock. You could see down into the crater and the black magma channel left behind from the last eruption in the 1970`s. Over the next ridge we were dazzled by the spectacle of the three Emerald Lakes and the distant Blue Lake. The colours were so vibrant it was hard to believe they were entirely natural - vivid green water fringed with yellow, red and black. The landscape stretched out ahead of us into the distance and there still was so much left to cover. At least it was downhill from hereon in.
We talked to other adventurers along the awsy including a party of hobbits in the shape of 40 school children. They were accompanied by their brave teachers who had the task not only of carrying a lot of the gear, but also motivating the stragglers. It was challenging enough pursuading my own legs to keep going let alone those of a stroppy 10 yr old who was convinced he hadn`t agreed to do this in the first place! Dispite this, one teacher, Miss Wilson, recently relocated from England, was celebrating her 40th birthday and at the highest point we all sang happy birthday to her.
As we slid down the gravel to the lakes a pernicious sulphorous stench thundered over us from the steaming volcanic vents. Every step brought more magnificent scenes; this was like nothing else on earth. Refreshingly it was utterly unspoilt by man: except from the track poles and miriad footprints from trampers gone by there were no man made objects in sight. Only one rule mattered on this trek - everything brought into the park had to be removed.
At the bottom we stopped for lunch between two of the lakes and enjoyed the peaceful, if slightly pugent surroundings. Our brie, avocado and tomato rolls were a definite success and the envy of all around. Gorged and content that our packs were now suitably lighter than when we`d set out, we continued the long descent.
The environment changed to resemble more of a heath with mosses, heather and small green foliage starting to emerge. As we continued to descend moths and butterflies began to appear and even the throb of cicadas returned. The hut that awaited us was an oasis for weary trekkers. It had bunks for the lucky few who had booked and were continuing the longer 3 day walk as well as running water and toilets. Exhausted bodies flopped everywhere and we just found a vacant spot and joined them, allowing our feet momentary freedom from our shoes.
The final descent back to the cars was less painful than the ascent but brought a more prolonged discomfort, especially for knees and ankles owing largely to the million or so steps added to the track at staggered intervals. We passed the tempting Hot Springs but were unfairly unable to take a dip since they are now sadly privately owned. We made vain attempts to try to protect our burning skin from the scorching sun that had unrelentingly been beating down on us all day. Thoughts of applying sun protection hit us quite late but luckily my skin seems accustomed to NZ sun now and didn`t burn. Tom wasn`t so lucky and had quite a red neck but luckily his humorous ginger stubble that had been blossoming over the past 24hrs and now made him look uncannily like Inspector Clouseau detracted attention from the sunburn. Frank was sporting a glowing red head but in truth he had that to start with.
After a couple of hours we reached the welcome shelter of the forest and the cool air gave us a sudden burst of energy and we strode off at a fast pace excited at the prospect of reaching the car now. Staggeringly we were passed by a couple running at breakneck speed and after much disbelief we agreed they couldn`t have done the Crossing and must simply be out for a run in the forest. The forest seemed endless as it twised and turned, took us over a stream and past a waterfall. Eventually, aching but triumphant, the trees gave way to a clearing and the car park where we had left Frank`s car 9 hours earlier. I can only describe my feeling as that of sheer jubilation. We had ventured out in trepidation this morning and marched determinately up and down a volcano. And now we had reached our destination and could look forward to a soak in the Hot Springs back in Taupo.
As we drove back round to pick up my car we passed the couple who had run past us in the forest and he flagged us down. It transpired that they had indeed just done the Crossing and even detoured up the difficult and unmarked slopes of Mt Ngauruhoe. However despite doing the same as us with two cars, they had inadvertantly left the car keys in the wrong car and were now running back round to the start of the walk, another 10km or so. Needless to say we gave them a lift to the car park. A little further on we were stopped by 2 guys who had missed their lift round to pick up their car so they too hopped in the back and our party continued round to the car park. Waving them all off and quietly chuckling to ourselves, we loaded ourselves into the car. I put the key in the ignition and turned but mysteriously nothing happened. I tried again but still nothing. Then I realised the lights had been left on from this morning and the battery was as flat as my expression. It was too late to call back the people we`d just dropped off and we looked about at the now lonely car park. Since the car was an automatic, bump starting it wasn`t an option. Luckily we had AA cover so we called them up and sat back to wait for a chap in a van to come and rescue us. It didn`t dull our spirits though and we chatted and laughed as the sun went down over a couple of slightly warm beers that had been stewing in the boot of the car.
Once the AA man arrived it took no time at all to start the car up and we haired back to Taupo in the hope of making the pools before they closed. Cruising most of the way in neutral to narrowly avoid running out of petrol as well, we made it to the spa with 40mins to go. We swiftly changed into our swimming togs that we had luckily brought along and submerged our spent bodies in the hot water. Paradise is the only way to describe the way we felt at that moment. Within minutes my feet felt part of me again and my muscles loosened. Despite brave talk of going out to a bar for celebratory drinks we simply couldn`t muster the energy so back at the motor lodge we simply cracked open some more beer and a bottle of red for me and recounted the day`s events until we fell asleep.
Unbelievably I thought today would be a good day to jump out of an aeroplane at 15,000 ft!Exhausted and aching fromhead to toe from yesterday`s tramp, what else would you do?
Frank was up for the challenge but sadly Tom wasn`t so our little party disbanded and we said a sad fairwell. Frank and I were picked up in a minibus along with the other fearless adventurers that would join us in this reckless pursuit - 2 Swedes, an American and a German - and we spent a little time getting to know each other. The first thing we did when we arrived at the jump site was watch a DVD of the previous party`s jump. It was a great way to see what we were going to be doing and build up the adrenalin. The excitement continued to build as we donned jumpsuits, strapped ourselves into harnesses and selected goggles and cap. We were doing tandem jumps so one by one we were paired up with our jump masters in whose hands we were going to be placing our lives. Since there`s little room for even embarrassment when you`re strapped underneath a person I tried to get to know my partner a little bfore we jumped. Sheridon had been jumping for about 12 years and 4 of those were professionally. He clearly loved what he did and although the initial thrills wear off off he said he got a big buzz from the reactions of the people he jumped with. This made me feel comfortable and confident and eased any nerves I might have had. He was also quite cheeky and humour is a great disp[enser of fear. Maybe it was this or maybe it simply the excitement but I didn`t feel scared at all from start to landing. By now were all packed into the plane, 6 jumpers, 6 jump masters, 5 cameramen and the pilot.
The climbed higher and higher above the elegant and expansive Lake Taupo - largest lake in the southern hemisphere and apparently large enough to fit SIngapore in with enough room to still sail around it. Ironically we could also see the Tongariro National Park and the volcanoes we had traversed only yesterday. THey didn`t seem nearly as grand as when we were on them but I felt an inner sense of pride for our achievements even so. At 12,000 ft the others started to disappear. I couldn`t see much from the front of the plane except people sliding forward. Then, all of a sudden the door closed and only Frank and I and our entourages were left.
The plane continued to climb until it reached 15,000 ft and then the buzzer sounded again and I knew it was our turn. Frank and his partner slid to the back of the plane and once the cameraman was in place outside the aircraft he jumped. Now it was just me and my heart skipped a beat as I let my mind consider what I was about to do. Sheridon pushed me forward and instructed me to swing my legs over the side, which I promptly obeyed. Suspended over the side of the plane with my legs dangling over the edge I looked down and saw the distant ground below. For those 2 seconds or so my heart raced but then with little warning we were out of the plane and falling backwards through the air. Just enjoy yourself I kept telling myself. Sheridon righted us and I thrust my arms out into the star position, back arched and legs bent. I saw the camera woman and knew I had a big cheesey grin on my face but it was so exciting. To be plunging downward at 200km/hr above the most breathtaking backcloth of Lake Taupo and surrounded by clear blue skies was truly awesome. The speed wasn`t really apparent because there was nothing to relate it to; nothing hurtling past to give it perspective. I could feel my face wobbling about but the grin stayed put and I just tried to take it all in. There was only 60 secs of this freefall and soon enough the rope would be pulled and our shoot would open but until then I just peered all around me and yelled in absolute exhilaration.
Once the shoot was open we sailed gracefully for another 4 mins or so. Only on the last bit did the ground really appear to loom towards us and ever so quickly we were coming in to land. `Legs up` shouted SHeridon and he took the brunt of the impact. Then we both ran a few steps before coming to a halt. I hugged and thanked Sheridon and went to join the others for a photo and moment of joy. I couldn`t believe how unscared I`d been throughout the whole experience and how serene it had actually been.
The DVD of our escapade was superb and well worth the extra money. Our valiant troupe then exchanged contact details before being returned to our respective locations. Frank and I continued to muse over the past couple of days over a hearty lunch and a leisurely sojourn on the beach in the last of the day`s sunshine.
It really feels like I`m coming to the end of my trip now cos all the major challenges have been faced and tonight I head back to Auckland to face my flight in a couple of days. Getting sad :o(
My last few days were spent travelling back up to Auckland and seeing some of the city sights I hadn`t yet seen such as the Sky Tower and quaint Devonport. As I came full circle back to where I`d started this adventure 27 days earlier, I was feeling sadness at having to say goodbye to this lovely country and it`s wonderful people. My relatively unplanned trip had brought me into contact with my old friend Lou and her forever gorgeous hubbie Jamie, slightly home-sick recent expats Tina, Robbie and Stef and their cute puppy Indie, mad Yvonne, to whom I owe a great deal for truly shaping the direction of my trip, Carl and his much extended family for unparalleled Maori hospitality, `The Dutchman` Frank who never ceased to make me laugh, Tom `Inspector Clouseau` Church and his amazing moustache and of course my far away family Pam & Johnnie.
As I reflected on my experiences horse riding across the beach, sleeping out under a million starts, floating above a basking sting ray, eating cheese and biscuits in front of Mt Taranaki, tramping the Tongariro Crossing and jumping out of an aeroplane, I felt extraordinarily lucky to have had the opportunities that I`d had and I only wonder when I`ll return to this amazing country.
An adventure to a truly amazing country - dusty and hot and with the warmest and most welcoming people I`ve ever met.
Greeted at the airport by the Guesthouse manager Haruna; a calm and peaceful man with Rasta dreads, philisophical thoughts and a twinkle in his eye. The half hour drive to the Guestouse took me through bustling towns where the streets were alive with trade and chatter; women carried their wares balanced on their heads, children carried water, men and women alike plied their trade in ramshackle stalls and shops. While my eyes danced over the scene outside, Haruna flitted between banter with our taxi driver and discussing the economic downturn in the west with me. All the while our taxi rattled along the dusty roads tooting its horn to passers by.
At the Guesthouse I met my fellow guests - Clive and Fern: a charming couple of hippies from a 9 bedroomed grade 1 listed communal house in Yorkshire, staying in Gambia for 3 months; Claire: a voluntary teacher in a local school, also staying om Gambia for 3 months; and Tristan and Jenny: a fun, lovable, ultra friendly couple from rural Cantebury, sightseeing for a week like me.
We aquanted ourselves over a hearty and tasty dinner of fish balls and rice from Nyima, our cook then all went for drinks in town, starting at Mr Bass and moving on to Happy`s and finally Saffie`s to sample some local music.
There is still nothing like the feeling of being on an open road wiith music filling your ears and an adventure ahead of you. As I set out from Calgary on wide open Highway 1A towards Banff I found myself howling to Counting Crows with the sun scorching my legs through the open window. One moment the mountains were a shaddowy ghost on the horizon and the next they were surrounding me. I passed aqua lakes where solitary souls drifted in their boats under the baking heat. I stopped at one to take a few photos nad chatted to a guy from Southern Alberta who was escaping back to the mountains to rechatge his batteries. On his recommendation I ventured to Canmore, just before the popular Banff, and drove up a gravel track into the mountains themselves to the Spray Lakes. Vast glacial water stretched out in front of various peaks just waiting for me to capture them through my lens.
I decided to spend the night here rather than venturing on and pulled in to the local Hostel Bear. i joined 2 German girls in a small dorm in the beautiful wooden building. If all Canadian hostels are like this then I'll be very happy.
I walked up the road to the Main Street for some dinner and found a lovely bar with friendly staff and got talking to Jared, a young gay American from New Mexico. We swapped travel stories and he gave me advice for ood places to trek tomorrow.
Now it's time to hit the sack since it's probably nearly 5am UK time and I'd like to avoid sleeping 12 hours again tonight.